As someone who's used the spraymax 2k clears a few times, that stuff works GOOD. Best clear from a can, period. You can dig your fingernails into it after it cures and it doesn't come close to leaving a mark.
@@BradAngove would you recommend 1 or 2 cans for a tele body? I’m planning on making a two tone wood thinline tele, painting the ash top with duplicllor and leaving the back natural mahogany. Then adding the clear coat to the whole thing.
Great knowledge base and solid DIY process for guitar body painting. Consequently you are only person that I know follow up and answer to the patrons questions. Thanks for all you do!
Brad, I’ve been watching your videos over the last month trying to figure out to refinish an old Squier Jazz Bass. After sanding the body down with 400 grit I think? I decided on using a combination of Duplicate-Color Gray perfect match filler primer and Dupli-Color Olympic White. I actually purchased the Dupli-Color clear coat but after watching some other videos with people raving about the SprayMax 2K Clear coat I decided to order a can of that instead. Wow am happy I did! It did end up with a pretty noticeable orange peel that I had to do more research on how to fix. I ended up wet sanding the whole body with 1500, 2000, then 3000 sand paper and finally polishing the whole thing with polishing compound. I know I messed up probably a lot because I’m very new to all of this but this combination of products is a total winner and my finished product looks amazing despite my green thumbs! I’ve never commented on a UA-cam video but after seeing that you made a video with the sameish combo of stuff I used I just had to let you know! You were my guide in this refinishing process so I just wanted to say thanks for all the tips and information on how to finish things so well on a budget! Stay Safe!
Duplicolor acrylic lacquer spray is an excellent substitute for nitrocelulose lacquer. Yes, it takes a while to cure. I let it cure for about a month before I sand and buff, but the resulting finish is beautiful.
I've learned if I want to get a finish as nice as what you're doing, Just do EXACTLY what you do. I've taken some short cuts that screwed up a few guitars along the way. I'm finishing an alder Tele with wipe on poly. Did it your way. Looks great . Go figure. Love the channel. Be safe . Be well. Aloha
The POacifica I did with Wipe On Poly came out nice. I used satin finish and its a smooth as a babys bum....the only issue is the crappy body wood and endgrain, but that's to be expected with a painted guitar. If you knew you were painting a guitar, you wouldn't buy the best _looking_ wood to do it.
Much, much better vid than the previous Red Peril job. And I really enough your video style, great info with the Lack of heavy metal background music and/or attempts at standup comedy. You've inspired me to mod and paint a Strat I have here in Alberta.
If you're willing to spend a little more than what a can of Duplicolor costs, automotive paint suppliers can often mix a proper 1k urethane base coat into a spray can for you. Sherwin Williams will do it if you go to one of their automotive specialty stores. 66 Auto Paint in Missouri sells online and does Pantone color matching, they can create just about any shade of any color you could possibly think of. I wanted to do a lavender finish but could only find that color in cheap hardware store enamels. I found a shade I liked on the Pantone color chart and they mixed a perfect urethane color match for me. No affiliation with them, but very happy with how the project turned out.
Hi Brad / long time follower here and love your work... in fact your videos gave me enough confidence to basically build a strat from a piece a junk. So let me share my experience ... After one year of work 🙂 I primed the body, sanded it nicely (as strange as it may sound I love sanding, it’s soothing) and gave 3 coats of synthetic enamel as colour. That was possibly the fatal flow but let me continue... enamel was the only product I found which I could have the colour made exactly to my shade of seafoam. It turned out gorgeous. I left it to cure for two months as i was quite worried about the next step and finally sprayed it with non catalysed poly as i believed that 2K could be too aggressive on the enamel. ... so I gave some nice coats, turned out fantastic, polished with wet sanding up to 2500 then macguire compound, all by hand. It looked amazing, factory finish seriously. After 2-3 weeks the poly started to crackle, very fine lines which got worse for another 3-4 weeks and finally stopped. I have a beautiful vintage looking poly finish now 😜, which of course i was not expecting. This is my experience and I would love to have your opinin on what happend... and what kind of paint is duplicolour to withstand 2K as clear - infos are not so clear to me! Anyways, I will start building another in no time! Keep up with the great work! Ciao
Well I’m glad most of the process went well for you. Long story short: enamel doesn’t play well with other paints. If you’re going to use enamel, either use an enamel clear over it, or just go ahead and polish the enamel color itself.
I love this page. This is my go to page for my need to know for any pathing guitar building and painting. 🇨🇦Thanks for all your help throughout the years Brad !
Thanks Kevin. I had said quite a while back that I wouldn't, but I suppose it might come up at some point. The thought of spraying a coating of rubber on your guitar never really sat well with me. I suppose it's nice to have a paint job you can peel off if you don't like it, but you can always just sand back and respray a normal paint job anyway, so I'm not sure I get the appeal.
I've noticed that good painters look almost machine like as they go back and forth and overlapping and maintaining the same distance from spray gun (or paint can) to the guitar body...
I used to do a lot of "street art" as a freelancer (and less officially as a kid). I picked up the can flipping from that. I can't hold a spray can for more than about 20 seconds before I flip it. I used to be a habit to keep the metal ball moving through the paint.. It's now just an old habit.
man, you make it look easy. I moved to Cheyenne, WY and not many places around paint guitars. There is a shop in Iowa but they've been hit hard this year. I''ve been contemplating on doing this myself. However, I want a metallic finish instead.
I know, old video, but thought it may be worth a comment. If you're in the states, certain NAPA auto parts stores have paint centers where you can get custom paint mixed. The one I go to can also mix your paint and put it in a very good quality spray can. They also have the 2-part clears in the very can you are showing in this video. I'm anxious to try duplicating the process you're demonstrating on my next guitar.
The key to any spray can job is warming up your paint in warm water before spraying, light coats to avoid paint runnings, and time to dry between different solvent paints.
Brad. I know you’ve probably covered this a million times. I read all the comments and didn’t seem to find an answer to this question. I am painting over I believe a poly finish on my guitar that has a Seafoam green color. I want to paint it slime green. The plan is to rough it up. Then, paint it with spray max 2K slime green (or the closest Spraymax color I could find). Follow that by spraymax 2K clearcoat. From the comments I’ve read, I am thinking that the slime green spraymax 2k will self level. The plan is to put a couple coats of slime green on. Let that dry for two or three days, and put on the clearcoat. After that, sand the clearcoat with 2000 grit and put polish on there. Please give me input if I’m either missing a step or adding a step. I love your videos.
I don’t think spraymax colors come in 2K. It should be a 1k acrylic. Then you can clear coat with the 2K clear. Your plan sounds fine to me. I don’t think the green will self level a lot, but it will depend on how heavy you spray it.
Great video! Really helpful commentary! I was wondering, would you be able to do a video to show how you put together the dolly/ handle that you're using the spin the body while you're spraying it? I can think of how I'd put one together but yours looks really solid and I'd love to know how it's put together/ components etc! Thanks
Hello Brad I have anotjer question for you and that is do you use a charchole respirator when you are spraying pray paints, primer sealer, and lacquer? Thanks Brad for everything.
Thanks for the info! Just painted the headstock of a Super-Sonic with Graphite Metallic to match the body. Looks very very close to the factory paint job on the body.
Hey Brad..love your tutorials and have been following all your instructions on my project. If I may..I just finished 2 base coats of yellow Duplicolor 2X on a guitar and really pleased with results..except today I was looking at it and I noticed 2 spots along teh curves of the horns in which the paint coat is a little thin. I would like to fix this but the last base coat I applied was 2 days ago. I have not applied any clear coat yet. So can I now go and add a little more base to those thin areas, or will it cause an issue because the paint has now cured a few days? Thanks!!
Interesting. I tried using 2k over duplicolor (exactly what you used, except not the same color) and had adhesion issues between the clear and the color. I didn't wait a whole week though (maybe a day or two). I guess I now know what I did wrong.
You may very well have waited too long. Read the TDS (technical data sheet) on the clear you're using. Most colors and clears depend on chemical bonding not mechanical. If you're waiting more than the recommended time then you may need to spray an inter coat clear. The you can sand that like you would your clear then spray your clear.
@@pedraw Thanks, that's a good point. I was comparing what I did with what was demonstrated in the video though. He waits a whole week between the color and the clear, while I used the exact same products but didn't wait as long...
I wait that long because they are completely different paint types and I need to account for compatibility. One coat with an inter coat after the color can assist, but the solvents in the 2K are strong enough to bond to the acrylic after a week, when enough of the solvents in the acrylic are gone to prevent issues.
Brad Angove this is such a great reply for amateur hobbyists like myself. I’d never have even considered all of that and would probably have to give up and switch to something else that I know would work. Thanks, man
Hello Brad I have a question. I'm straying some rustolem filler primer on my guitar sand body, my question is can you do three or four filler primer coats of just stay with 2 coats and wait a week to apply two more filler primer coats. I'm going to also spray it with rustolem primer sealer before I sprY on my base coat. Please explain how you would do it.
Hi Brad. This project of yours looks fantastic!! I really like the calypso color!! Do you know if the Spraymax 2k Clear Gamour will stick to a gloss Duplicolor Perfect Match paint? Thanks
Question about drying time between acrylic lacquer color coats and 2k poly clear coats: Hey, Brad. I'm a luthier of over 10 years and I build bodies and necks from scratch out of my home workshop. I have experience finishing, but only with nitro and acrylic lacquers through a gun. I've used duplicolor for color coats with excellent results, but I tend to stick mostly to woodworking as a subcontractor for larger guitar manufacturing pipelines. I wanted to upgrade to a catalyzed finish as I'm quite impatient when it comes to waiting the full month that you really ought to before leveling out and polishing lacquer. Hopefully getting comfortable with this process will ease up my hesitation to do proper finishes in-between all of the woodworking jobs. Similar to what you've done in this video, I sprayed a neck with amber tinted lacquer to achieve the color depth I'm looking for. This sealed the wood (similar to the primer you used in the video) and also gave me something to apply the headstock decal onto. I then covered the decal with some more lacquer as I wanted to be sure that I had one uniform surface/material I was spraying my 2k poly onto. I'm hesitant to start spraying the poly as I've read that poly-over-lacquer can cause issues. I note that the description of your video mentions waiting for the color coats to 'dry fully', but I don't find any more details about how long one should wait within the video. Could you give me any more insight on problems I might have trying to spray the 2k poly too soon after spraying the lacquer? How long you wait in-between, etc. Thanks for the great content, and I'm looking forward to getting comfortable with this method.
I waited a week before applying the 2K. That has always worked for me. If you apply the poly too soon you risk the solvents in the lacquer trying to evaporate underneath and creating pinholes and delamination.
@@BradAngove Thanks for the tip. Did as you said and got wonderful results on my first try. I got some more of the rattle can stuff for now, but I'm on the lookout for 2k poly in a can that I can mix myself as you do in your video. If you happen to know of any sources that I'll be able to get in the US - I know you're in Canada - and don't mind sharing, I'd be highly grateful. Thanks again for your time and the content
Brad, nothing to do. with this video but I don't know how to ask any other way. Router sleds. I can see how a router sled can be used for flattening a piece of wood but can I use one with a template and flush cut router bit to trim around a guitar body/neck (it would save any 'router topple' around the horns etc). I can't see any problem with this but haven't found any videos on it. The question is 'Am I missing something'? It seems like a great way to ensure a nice square router cut. Many thanks, Paj
Such a very helpful video! Thanks for sharing with us! I'm doing this process on my kit guitar now. I just sprayed the second color coat and it's looking great, but I stupidly brushed the edge on the filter of the spray booth I built! Any tips how to fix that? Just sand the marred area out and re-paint that area? How long to wait before I can sand it? Or do I have to sand it all off and start again?
Sounds like you just need one more light coat. Sand the marred area, gently scuff the rest, and hit it one more time. I’d give it at least a day. Nothing wrong with waiting longer though.
@@BradAngove Hey Brad. I sorted out the marred area and got the Car Rep 2K sprayed on. It's been 2 weeks now and I can still dent the finish with my fingernail. Will this eventually harden enough to pass the fingernail test or did I do something wrong? Or is it normal to leave a dent with your fingernail?
@pmkconsultant I have had some issues lately with the car rep 2K not hardening as much as I would want. It should harden enough to pass the fingernail test though. Is it somewhere warm and dry?
@@BradAngove Thanks for the reply Brad. I have had it in my basement which has a dehumidifier running all the time and stays a pretty constant temp, though probably a little below 70 degrees F. Maybe I'll run a space heater in that room for a while and see if it helps?
Hey thanks man, great vid you put a lot of time and effort into these vids its obvious, i mean post shoot, there's editing, etc, been there, but thanks, great vids. Spraying a guitar from start to finish- New to me mostly, had some spray experience no training though so yeah I'm a newb. Hoping you could maybe hear me out on a few but mainly one points on exactly what you're doing- aerosol spraying a guitar and still getting a pro finish- Can orange peel happen on any stage from colour to clear or does warming up the colour and clear coat cans in buckets of heated water pre spray help atomise the spray mist more finely making a more flat even coat each time? Or will orange peel just happen regardless like if sealer added post pore filler isn't done up to standard. is the problem it rooted there in the sealer stag, depending on how flat just after pores are filled and sealer is applied. Or is it just the way the colour coat pulls together nitro and poly. Meaning sanding is the only way to deal will orange peel? Or can good timing and without sanding other than a light rub to flick pokey bits etc fluff and crap like dust etc rather than wearing down the colour to get rid of orange peel all the way, which might be all the way to the last coat, I was thinking solutions, like Possibly more attention on flattening the sealer at the pore and sealer phase may work further down for more even spread, or can it be dealt with later on? Like with adding more colour as a filler in and around the orange peel areas? Apologies- long way round to ask more than one way to find the right knowledge.
Orange peel can, and likely will, happen at least a bit at every stage. Warmed cans with better working propellant, and really good technique, can help. Painting on a nice smooth surface also helps, so it’s good to take out orange peel at each stage by sanding smooth. In general, outside of perfecting your thinner ratios etc for the conditions (which you can’t do with cans), sanding is about the only way to deal with it. Or scraping smooth if you’re very good at that.
@Brad Angove thanks, confirmation, I've been asking about a few sprayers/painters, they all say the same- thin coats let it go to orange peel it's going to anyway, sand out as much as possible to get flat bit keep in mind to keep the sanding flat as a whole area not just the localised orange peel, so wood sanding block right to smooth grit works everytime.. it's not actually a big deal not as much as not keeping each coat clean as hell, naphtha I heard is good but not too much less you're stripping back, then when you see the low spots where colour is at its thickest in places I guess a decent straight edge and really dry wood and patience, with the knowledge of all the spraying materials needed can by can from apoxy grain filler, to sealer to colour and clear- if I asked custom paints uk they'd know the exact cans content for compatability on each stage. I could hire a spray gun plus compressor locally for the clear coat, if if I can get my head around it in the time I have it and it was effective I'd buy one. Then figure out the rest from there. Having some ideas about open grained hardwood, mahogany etc, a colored apoxy like gold or whatever colour in contrast with the wood, the grain filler colouring and accentuates well through a clear coat on top is all just try it out! You're gonna have an idea of what it looks like but only when that last coat of clear is done is when it shows average or awesome. Hey thanks for replying with your advice, i much appreciated it.
Forgot to ask- and hope you dont mind!- when matching aerosols for all stages, after pore fill- sealer, colour, clear... what is the key chemicals I need to look out for for compatability, what never to mix and match does it just come down to acrylic or vynl being the right or wrong ingredient. Thanks again Regards- Mike
Acrylic plays well with most things, enamel doesn’t play well with anything, vinyl and polyurethane don’t go together, lacquer and polyurethane are fine together usually, and polyester is a very good sealer that cures to a point where I think you can put pretty much whatever you want over it.
@Brad Angove Sounds easy when you know how and what to do now, what not to do ever, and thanks - you're a decent bloke straightforward, covered all the bases i was looking unto . All I can say is ' Namaste 🙏 '. Apparently, you only say that once to any one person in any one day, twice is considered daft. Learned that from my Nepalese friends. After finding out the hard way- point is- you've gone through this for idk how long, clearly have experience, successful and unsuccessful experience is the one and only way on the everlearning road, but that has for me I can say- made the road a lot more straight down the middle clear roads ahead because you've shared good info acquired from your own mistakes and successes, as its said " if you want to see further, stand on the shoulders of giants" That's anyone who is better than you are, in this case thank you. I'll be sure to try and test as anyone would do, and further down the road pass on the knowledge. Thank fkn God! For You-Tubers.
I've come to understand, repeatedly, that 220 is the best grit for paint prep. I've been told that 320 is too close to polishing the wood which to a certain degree inhibits good adherence of the paint.
how much time between the primer coats did you use? And also... after a week did you happen to wear the same shirt between primer and top coat? It really looks like you did this all on the same day... I thought you were waiting a week after primer before color?
I usually give primer a couple days to dry and then sand if there are any issues. There were no issues here, so I may have done primer and color on the same day and then waited a week before spraying my clear. I have a few of the same or similar cheap shirts that I wear for shop work.
@@BradAngove Thanks for the reply. I have been messing around with guitar pedal boxes and experimenting with primers colors and clear coats. I was ganna say, it looked like it was all done the same day! The Rust Oleum cans do say you can do it all in a day. each coat can go on over the last as long as its within 1 hour... after that you have to wait 2 days... I thought that seemed a little too good to be true. So you wait a week before clear coat? holy crap. Is spray panting supposed to take this kind of wait time?
I wait a week because the clear is a different paint type than the color in this case. I want enough of the solvents to evaporate out to avoid a reaction. You can do some spray paint finishes in a day, but if you’re trying for results that are more like professional paint systems, you need to follow a procedure that is more like those.
Last question... I have been drying rust oleum clear coats for well over a week. Its dry enough to sand gently... but if I take my fingernail and press it into it... it does scratch/dent it.... is that just how it is? I figured this stuff would get super hard
Any suggestion on how to get rid of the plastic look on guitars? I think spray painted guitars look like cheap plastic. Your videos helped me a lot int he last few months, and i am building my 3rd guitar right know
What look are you aiming for instead? Perhaps consider a lower sheen finish, or even an oil. Modified tung oil has a very rich look to it over a nice wood and looks nothing like plastic.
Another great looking guitar in the process. Have you ever done an Eerie Dess paint style? Or would you be willing to give it a shot in one of your future videos?
Do you mean iridescent? I've done a few, but not necessarily on the channel. I have one coming up that is somewhat iridescent, and intend on doing a few more as time progresses.
@@BradAngove Sort of like that. Here is a video of the style I'm talking about. Hope it's ok to post this here on your site. ua-cam.com/video/sAqA05FeZOQ/v-deo.html I've only found one guy try this on UA-cam, but it was very amateur and I don't think he even finished it. Was hoping you could give it a shot for an upcoming video. Thanks.
Hi Brad, hope you can help me . Can you spray more then two coats of clear gloss with Spraymax 2 pack clear , with spray cans on top of Montana metallic red . ?? Thanks. Keep up the good work.
I just used this exact paint the perfect match on a pc case and the texture of the paint came out like sand paper? Is that normal Or should i wet sand it before I use the 2k clear coat?
Nice job. I used to paint cars for a living and painted (pre waterborne) with PPG deltron base and high solids clear, and sometimes Dupont (pre base/clear. I've been out of the business many years, and my guns are deep in storage. Im going to paint with some cans this time. Have you ever done a neck-through guitar ? im just trying to figure out a good mount/stand so I can get the neck and body in one go.
@@BradAngove Thanks, for the tip. I will use this method. I'm just finishing up some bodywork on it. It was cracked badly at the volume hole and 5 position switch slot, and had a bunch of dents. Its a Jackson soloist pro - metallic blue with white binding that has gone yellow (probably from lacquer that was used in '94, from the factory. )
drop dead gorgeous paintjob brad. what if i will use a different brand of acrylic primer and base coat (not dupli) and ill use carpaint urethane clear coat, will it still have the same outcome?
Brad, love your videos! I do have a question though. I want to do a finish to a kit that I want to do and I will try to get a screen shot that I did. Here it is..
Hey Brad! First off i love your videos! They have helped me alot! Im at the moment working on refinishing a guitar and have grainfilled the guitar and ready to paint it. Im a bit unsure if my laquer method Im thinking of will work. I have bought a lacquer that i got recommended for guitar finish(NOT poly though). I wanna do 3-4 layers. Let it cure for a week. Sand with 1000 grit till its flat. 3-4 layers on top of that and then sand with 1000 then 1500 and then 2000. Then polish. I hope this will give me a nice high gloss. What do you think?
Hey Brad! I just want to say a big thanks for making me aware of SprayMax 2K. Provided you have the right temperature and PPE, it is a dream to use! Keep it up, bud! Well done!
No, you can typically apply three sprayed on coats of solvent based paint about 10-15 minutes apart. Depends on the paint, but then you need to let it dry fully and sand and clean before continuing.
Hello Brad! Can I spray Clear Gloss nitrocellulose lacquer over Acrylic Lacquer? Im about to paint my guitar with Pearl/Metallic Acrylic color. Do you recommend applying a Few coats of Clear Nitro after about 30 min to 1 hour (after finishing with the Acrylic color coats)? Or should I wait more and then spray the nitro lacquer after a few days? The problem is, I dont want to sand the Pearl/Metallic. What is your recommendation? Will the Acrylic color coat dry enough if I apply Clear Nitro in very short order? My plan is this: Nitro sanding sealer-white primer-Acrylic-Nitro Clear. Sounds about right?
I’d wait a few days. Nitro is a different chemical and could react. The chances of a bad reaction will be reduced if you wait a few days or even a couple weeks.
Hey Brad…… I just completed a guitar using duplicolor Light Blue Metallic and I cleared over it with 2k. Coming out great, thanks for the video. Have you ever sprayed 2k over Nitrocellulose?
So you didn’t sand the color before you sprayed the clear huh ? I primed and color coated my Gibson on the same day ( hope that doesn’t bite me in the rear). I’ll wait about a week before spraying the 2k clear though. I’d appreciate any comments on the need to sand the color before spraying the clear ( right now I don’t plan on it. Great video.
It’s better to sand, but this is metallic so I couldn’t. Ideally you would spray one coat of the same kind of clear (as a midcoat) and then give it a week or two, sand lightly, and come in with your 2K.
@@BradAngovethanks for your videos. I’m redoing a slot machine with 5 paints including a Montana metallic. I’m thinking of going over the metallic with clear gloss acrylic then sanding so my other layers of paint stick. See any issues with this? Then 2k over the whole thing at the end.
@reiddeschand2385 that’s probably how I would do it. Just test the metallic and clear on something first. Some metallic spray paints aren’t designed to be clear coated.
I make guitars and I need to build/buy a booth. Yours looks interesting. Do you have a video where you talk about it or can share the make and model? Also I did not catch how long you waited between color coats and between clear coats. Cheers - Andrew
10-15 minutes between coats generally. I’m not sure where the boss picked up the booth, but I’ll take a look at the brand next time I’m in the shop. I know you can get similar ones through coast airbrush and probably Eastwood auto.
Hey brad I’m about to use the spraymax gloss on a new glossy project. I was wondering I have another project with a Matte paint, if I did the gloss clear over the matte, would it kind of cancel out that matte finish?
As someone who's used the spraymax 2k clears a few times, that stuff works GOOD. Best clear from a can, period. You can dig your fingernails into it after it cures and it doesn't come close to leaving a mark.
Any experience with the Duplicolor cans of clear?
@@minkorrh Yes -- I can pick chunks out of it w my fingernail. Starting to think I didn't let something cure long enough.
How long does it take to cure?
@jaloejuice 24 hours for most purposes
@@BradAngove would you recommend 1 or 2 cans for a tele body? I’m planning on making a two tone wood thinline tele, painting the ash top with duplicllor and leaving the back natural mahogany. Then adding the clear coat to the whole thing.
Great knowledge base and solid DIY process for guitar body painting. Consequently you are only person that I know follow up and answer to the patrons questions. Thanks for all you do!
Thanks John
Brad, I’ve been watching your videos over the last month trying to figure out to refinish an old Squier Jazz Bass. After sanding the body down with 400 grit I think? I decided on using a combination of Duplicate-Color Gray perfect match filler primer and Dupli-Color Olympic White. I actually purchased the Dupli-Color clear coat but after watching some other videos with people raving about the SprayMax 2K Clear coat I decided to order a can of that instead. Wow am happy I did! It did end up with a pretty noticeable orange peel that I had to do more research on how to fix. I ended up wet sanding the whole body with 1500, 2000, then 3000 sand paper and finally polishing the whole thing with polishing compound. I know I messed up probably a lot because I’m very new to all of this but this combination of products is a total winner and my finished product looks amazing despite my green thumbs! I’ve never commented on a UA-cam video but after seeing that you made a video with the sameish combo of stuff I used I just had to let you know! You were my guide in this refinishing process so I just wanted to say thanks for all the tips and information on how to finish things so well on a budget! Stay Safe!
Hey Andy, I’m glad to hear your finish turned out the way you wanted!
Question...were you putting the color coat on immediately ...within minutes...of spraying the primer?....any grain filler.
Looks like the same Calypso they used on some of the Fox body Mustangs. Looks great on both the car and guitar!
I was pretty pleased to find this color actually. Haven't seen it on the shelf before.
Wasn't that Cayman Green on those early 90's?
Duplicolor acrylic lacquer spray is an excellent substitute for nitrocelulose lacquer. Yes, it takes a while to cure. I let it cure for about a month before I sand and buff, but the resulting finish is beautiful.
It has very different properties than nitro, but it can definitely give a beautiful finish.
But one similarity is a new coat burns into the previous one like nitro does. Fender custom colors in the 60s were all acrylic lacquers too.
I've learned if I want to get a finish as nice as what you're doing, Just do EXACTLY what you do. I've taken some short cuts that screwed up a few guitars along the way. I'm finishing an alder Tele with wipe on poly. Did it your way. Looks great . Go figure. Love the channel. Be safe . Be well. Aloha
Glad it worked out for you!
The POacifica I did with Wipe On Poly came out nice. I used satin finish and its a smooth as a babys bum....the only issue is the crappy body wood and endgrain, but that's to be expected with a painted guitar. If you knew you were painting a guitar, you wouldn't buy the best _looking_ wood to do it.
Thanks!
Thank you! That’s very kind of you.
Much, much better vid than the previous Red Peril job. And I really enough your video style, great info with the Lack of heavy metal background music and/or attempts at standup comedy. You've inspired me to mod and paint a Strat I have here in Alberta.
Thanks. I hope it goes well for you.
At first I didn't think that I would like that color but the more I look at it, it's very nice. Rather original Calypso Blue., tres cool
Thanks Sam.
@@BradAngove does it needs to sand the color before clear coat? If yes 600 or 1200?
I don’t sand metallics before clear coating.
If you're willing to spend a little more than what a can of Duplicolor costs, automotive paint suppliers can often mix a proper 1k urethane base coat into a spray can for you. Sherwin Williams will do it if you go to one of their automotive specialty stores. 66 Auto Paint in Missouri sells online and does Pantone color matching, they can create just about any shade of any color you could possibly think of. I wanted to do a lavender finish but could only find that color in cheap hardware store enamels. I found a shade I liked on the Pantone color chart and they mixed a perfect urethane color match for me. No affiliation with them, but very happy with how the project turned out.
Thank you for mentioning us! we actually have a Store in the US now and we do ship to Canada! 😎
Excellent
Hi Brad / long time follower here and love your work... in fact your videos gave me enough confidence to basically build a strat from a piece a junk. So let me share my experience ... After one year of work 🙂 I primed the body, sanded it nicely (as strange as it may sound I love sanding, it’s soothing) and gave 3 coats of synthetic enamel as colour. That was possibly the fatal flow but let me continue... enamel was the only product I found which I could have the colour made exactly to my shade of seafoam. It turned out gorgeous. I left it to cure for two months as i was quite worried about the next step and finally sprayed it with non catalysed poly as i believed that 2K could be too aggressive on the enamel. ... so I gave some nice coats, turned out fantastic, polished with wet sanding up to 2500 then macguire compound, all by hand. It looked amazing, factory finish seriously. After 2-3 weeks the poly started to crackle, very fine lines which got worse for another 3-4 weeks and finally stopped. I have a beautiful vintage looking poly finish now 😜, which of course i was not expecting. This is my experience and I would love to have your opinin on what happend... and what kind of paint is duplicolour to withstand 2K as clear - infos are not so clear to me! Anyways, I will start building another in no time! Keep up with the great work! Ciao
Well I’m glad most of the process went well for you. Long story short: enamel doesn’t play well with other paints. If you’re going to use enamel, either use an enamel clear over it, or just go ahead and polish the enamel color itself.
@@BradAngove thanks Brad! You are great man!
@@BradAngove thanks Brad! You are great man!
Cheers Dario
I love this page. This is my go to page for my need to know for any pathing guitar building and painting. 🇨🇦Thanks for all your help throughout the years Brad !
Cheers!
That guitar is going to look great. Looking forward to part two. Would you ever do a Plasti-Dip spray guitar finish tutorial?
Thanks Kevin. I had said quite a while back that I wouldn't, but I suppose it might come up at some point. The thought of spraying a coating of rubber on your guitar never really sat well with me. I suppose it's nice to have a paint job you can peel off if you don't like it, but you can always just sand back and respray a normal paint job anyway, so I'm not sure I get the appeal.
Plasti-dip, while it looks amazing, is extremely sticky against skin and not pleasing to feel on a guitar.
I'm in Canada too. Thanks pointing me to the 2K in a can I can get here, so I'm not cleaning my gun for smaller jobs!
Glad I could help
I'm picking up guitar for a refin tomorrow
Finally
I can watch your painting tutorials and put them into practice
That’s exciting
I bought a different blue Bahama blue like the old novas and it loooks sooooo good
Excellent
I've been using Eastwood 2K matte clear on my last few projects and I love the durability and look of it plus it cures and hardens really fast
Glad to hear it
I like how you sanded down hip-carve to your standards !! I am currently in process of my own design and i did the same thing. very kool !!!
Thanks. I’m glad you like it.
Ha, I had done this same thing with the same paint back in 94' it held up very well over the years. Cool video.
Thank you
Great video. I learn something new every time. Real excited on how the planets are going to look on that greenish color.😂😂
That's the oceanic background. This one gets some spray art coral and fish...
I've noticed that good painters look almost machine like as they go back and forth and overlapping and maintaining the same distance from spray gun (or paint can) to the guitar body...
The really good ones get a lot of practice I would think. Probably daily.
When you flip spray cans, it's obviously not because you're showing off but a sign of how much you must be around them things
It’s an old habit. I honestly don’t even think about it anymore because I used to do it so much haha.
I used to do a lot of "street art" as a freelancer (and less officially as a kid). I picked up the can flipping from that. I can't hold a spray can for more than about 20 seconds before I flip it. I used to be a habit to keep the metal ball moving through the paint.. It's now just an old habit.
Colour choice looks like it will be a winner.
Glad you like it.
Closing in on 100K subscribers. Thanks for your vids, they're pretty informative and helpful.
Thank you. That's what I'm trying for.
This looks great!
Can't wait for part 2.
Thanks Martin!
Question:
Why do you do two normal coats on this one, rather than the usual
Tack coat
Wait 10 mins
Regular coat
Wait 10 mins
Regular coat ?
Great job Brad. I actually did a telecaster in that same color and it came out great. Keep up the good work!
Glad to hear yours turned out well.
Thanks. I'm taking my Jeep TJ in to be painted this colour.
That should be interesting.
Great colour!!!!
Thanks Don
Spray cans have come a long way. Excellent job 👍
Thank you! Buying a solo guitar kit soon and I'd use your tutorial
Very cool. Didn't know you were still doing this. Very cool. Thanks man..
man, you make it look easy. I moved to Cheyenne, WY and not many places around paint guitars. There is a shop in Iowa but they've been hit hard this year. I''ve been contemplating on doing this myself. However, I want a metallic finish instead.
I know, old video, but thought it may be worth a comment. If you're in the states, certain NAPA auto parts stores have paint centers where you can get custom paint mixed. The one I go to can also mix your paint and put it in a very good quality spray can. They also have the 2-part clears in the very can you are showing in this video. I'm anxious to try duplicating the process you're demonstrating on my next guitar.
That’s a great tip. Many paint stores can do that and it’s very helpful.
Part 2 not ready yet? looking forward to it
Soon haha.
Well now I'm ready for sanding! I have a bass guitar I'm about to try to tackle. Thanks for all these tutorials!
I hope it goes well
The key to any spray can job is warming up your paint in warm water before spraying, light coats to avoid paint runnings, and time to dry between different solvent paints.
Wow luv that color Brad, caunt wait to see it when its all done mate, great job Cheers
Thank you.
great job. I´m on the task of painting one of my guitars in glossy black with a mirror pickguard. you vids takes me to the right path.
Sounds like a fun project. I hope it goes well.
Dude, you’re awesome. Thanks for the vids, great knowledge. We are stunt doubles by the way!
Stunt doubles? Nice. Which one of us does the stunts?
Brad. I know you’ve probably covered this a million times. I read all the comments and didn’t seem to find an answer to this question. I am painting over I believe a poly finish on my guitar that has a Seafoam green color. I want to paint it slime green. The plan is to rough it up. Then, paint it with spray max 2K slime green (or the closest Spraymax color I could find). Follow that by spraymax 2K clearcoat. From the comments I’ve read, I am thinking that the slime green spraymax 2k will self level. The plan is to put a couple coats of slime green on. Let that dry for two or three days, and put on the clearcoat. After that, sand the clearcoat with 2000 grit and put polish on there. Please give me input if I’m either missing a step or adding a step. I love your videos.
I don’t think spraymax colors come in 2K. It should be a 1k acrylic. Then you can clear coat with the 2K clear.
Your plan sounds fine to me. I don’t think the green will self level a lot, but it will depend on how heavy you spray it.
In Canada you can get Spraymax at Napa.
Great video! Really helpful commentary! I was wondering, would you be able to do a video to show how you put together the dolly/ handle that you're using the spin the body while you're spraying it? I can think of how I'd put one together but yours looks really solid and I'd love to know how it's put together/ components etc! Thanks
I have this old video on it:ua-cam.com/video/skY2YWQVJoE/v-deo.html
Nice work man...! gonna use your method... Cheers...!
I hope it goes well for you.
@@BradAngove Thank you...!
Very nice colour choice
Thanks Hollie
Love the color and your videos. I have the same color .lol I use the clear coat cans on my touch up auto paint repair
Looks awesome!!! Love how consistently you were spraying
Thank you. I'm glad you like it.
Thanks for the help mate. I’m about to spray a body with nitro. I’ve sprayed quite a lot of things but I’m not that good at it
It all comes with practice my friend.
Amazing how you keep your paint and clear coat from running,,,, I can never seem to get the distance right,,, LOL Great vid Brad,, thank you...
Getting the balance right between speed and distance comes with some practice. You will get the hang of it.
Love the color, great video!
Thank you
Hello Brad I have anotjer question for you and that is do you use a charchole respirator when you are spraying pray paints, primer sealer, and lacquer?
Thanks Brad for everything.
I do yes.
@@BradAngove Thanks Brad, I just didnt know if i were to use a thick filter mask or charcoal filter one. Thanks again.
Thanks for the info! Just painted the headstock of a Super-Sonic with Graphite Metallic to match the body. Looks very very close to the factory paint job on the body.
Nice!
That is one awesome finish brother!!! 🙌🏻🎸
You made this look so easy, I'm intrigued to try it
I hope it goes well for you
Hey Brad..love your tutorials and have been following all your instructions on my project. If I may..I just finished 2 base coats of yellow Duplicolor 2X on a guitar and really pleased with results..except today I was looking at it and I noticed 2 spots along teh curves of the horns in which the paint coat is a little thin. I would like to fix this but the last base coat I applied was 2 days ago. I have not applied any clear coat yet. So can I now go and add a little more base to those thin areas, or will it cause an issue because the paint has now cured a few days? Thanks!!
To be safe I would suggest you let it dry for a week or so. Then sand lightly with 800 grit and add another coat to finish getting your coverage.
I am going to use this technique for my cement items. thanks
Interesting. I tried using 2k over duplicolor (exactly what you used, except not the same color) and had adhesion issues between the clear and the color. I didn't wait a whole week though (maybe a day or two). I guess I now know what I did wrong.
You may very well have waited too long. Read the TDS (technical data sheet) on the clear you're using. Most colors and clears depend on chemical bonding not mechanical. If you're waiting more than the recommended time then you may need to spray an inter coat clear. The you can sand that like you would your clear then spray your clear.
@@pedraw Thanks, that's a good point. I was comparing what I did with what was demonstrated in the video though. He waits a whole week between the color and the clear, while I used the exact same products but didn't wait as long...
I wait that long because they are completely different paint types and I need to account for compatibility. One coat with an inter coat after the color can assist, but the solvents in the 2K are strong enough to bond to the acrylic after a week, when enough of the solvents in the acrylic are gone to prevent issues.
@@BradAngove Thanks for the info once again.
Brad Angove this is such a great reply for amateur hobbyists like myself. I’d never have even considered all of that and would probably have to give up and switch to something else that I know would work. Thanks, man
I do automotive spot work sometimes and I think just using auto clear coat should be more than fine.
It is
as always.. i love your work Brad.
Thank you
That's a pretty cool color, actually. Is it metallic? Can't wait to see it finished!
Yes, it's one of their metallic/pearl colors.
I had a Kramer Focus that color in 1986 :-)
Great video man! Great job!
Thanks Brian
@@BradAngove absolutely man, thanks for the content!
Man, you should make a video about swirl dipped finish using Magic Marble. There are no instructional videos on this.
Thanks for another great video! Any chance you could do one similar in a transparent finish?
There’s a very good chance I will do that!
That was awesome ! !
Dude, you make me want to go to the gym!
Love that color man.
Thanks Ben
Hi Brad! Using duplicolor primer sanding FILLER would I still need a grain filler on a mahogany body?
Oh mahogany I would still recommend a filler.
Thanks, this is why your channel is so loved.
Hello Brad I have a question. I'm straying some rustolem filler primer on my guitar sand body, my question is can you do three or four filler primer coats of just stay with 2 coats and wait a week to apply two more filler primer coats. I'm going to also spray it with rustolem primer sealer before I sprY on my base coat. Please explain how you would do it.
You can probably get away with 3 or 4 coats, but it depends on how heavy you spray. If you lay it in there too thick it’ll just crack.
@@BradAngove and then wait a week for it to dry thoroughly?
4 days should be adequate for most primers.
Dude i put my lacquer cans in hot water for 5min before i use them and atomazation is super fine. I use dupli-color transparent. Thats my PRO-cess
Ya, I've done a video on that trick. It helps expand the propellant. Good call.
Hi Brad. This project of yours looks fantastic!! I really like the calypso color!! Do you know if the Spraymax 2k Clear Gamour will stick to a gloss Duplicolor Perfect Match paint?
Thanks
You’ll want to scuff the gloss with some 800 grit to allow the spraymax to adhere properly.
Question about drying time between acrylic lacquer color coats and 2k poly clear coats:
Hey, Brad. I'm a luthier of over 10 years and I build bodies and necks from scratch out of my home workshop. I have experience finishing, but only with nitro and acrylic lacquers through a gun. I've used duplicolor for color coats with excellent results, but I tend to stick mostly to woodworking as a subcontractor for larger guitar manufacturing pipelines. I wanted to upgrade to a catalyzed finish as I'm quite impatient when it comes to waiting the full month that you really ought to before leveling out and polishing lacquer. Hopefully getting comfortable with this process will ease up my hesitation to do proper finishes in-between all of the woodworking jobs.
Similar to what you've done in this video, I sprayed a neck with amber tinted lacquer to achieve the color depth I'm looking for. This sealed the wood (similar to the primer you used in the video) and also gave me something to apply the headstock decal onto. I then covered the decal with some more lacquer as I wanted to be sure that I had one uniform surface/material I was spraying my 2k poly onto. I'm hesitant to start spraying the poly as I've read that poly-over-lacquer can cause issues. I note that the description of your video mentions waiting for the color coats to 'dry fully', but I don't find any more details about how long one should wait within the video. Could you give me any more insight on problems I might have trying to spray the 2k poly too soon after spraying the lacquer? How long you wait in-between, etc.
Thanks for the great content, and I'm looking forward to getting comfortable with this method.
I waited a week before applying the 2K. That has always worked for me. If you apply the poly too soon you risk the solvents in the lacquer trying to evaporate underneath and creating pinholes and delamination.
@@BradAngove Thanks for the tip. Did as you said and got wonderful results on my first try. I got some more of the rattle can stuff for now, but I'm on the lookout for 2k poly in a can that I can mix myself as you do in your video. If you happen to know of any sources that I'll be able to get in the US - I know you're in Canada - and don't mind sharing, I'd be highly grateful.
Thanks again for your time and the content
Eastwood automotive has 2K. The spraymax 2K is available on Amazon as well.
Looks great brad !!
Thank you! Cheers!
Brad, nothing to do. with this video but I don't know how to ask any other way. Router sleds. I can see how a router sled can be used for flattening a piece of wood but can I use one with a template and flush cut router bit to trim around a guitar body/neck (it would save any 'router topple' around the horns etc). I can't see any problem with this but haven't found any videos on it. The question is 'Am I missing something'? It seems like a great way to ensure a nice square router cut.
Many thanks,
Paj
I suppose you could if it were set up wide enough. Nobody does that though because the simple option is just to use (or make) a router table usually.
@@BradAngove Thanks Brad. I got it up and running yesterday. Works a treat. Trying to avoid a router table, not sure why.
Such a very helpful video! Thanks for sharing with us! I'm doing this process on my kit guitar now. I just sprayed the second color coat and it's looking great, but I stupidly brushed the edge on the filter of the spray booth I built! Any tips how to fix that? Just sand the marred area out and re-paint that area? How long to wait before I can sand it? Or do I have to sand it all off and start again?
Sounds like you just need one more light coat. Sand the marred area, gently scuff the rest, and hit it one more time. I’d give it at least a day. Nothing wrong with waiting longer though.
@@BradAngove Hey Brad. I sorted out the marred area and got the Car Rep 2K sprayed on. It's been 2 weeks now and I can still dent the finish with my fingernail. Will this eventually harden enough to pass the fingernail test or did I do something wrong? Or is it normal to leave a dent with your fingernail?
@pmkconsultant I have had some issues lately with the car rep 2K not hardening as much as I would want. It should harden enough to pass the fingernail test though. Is it somewhere warm and dry?
@@BradAngove Thanks for the reply Brad. I have had it in my basement which has a dehumidifier running all the time and stays a pretty constant temp, though probably a little below 70 degrees F. Maybe I'll run a space heater in that room for a while and see if it helps?
I’m not sure if it will help, but generally (especially for 2k and enamels) higher temperatures promote drying.
Most duplicolor stuff is lacquer. Some is acrylic enamel.
Hey thanks man, great vid you put a lot of time and effort into these vids its obvious, i mean post shoot, there's editing, etc, been there, but thanks, great vids.
Spraying a guitar from start to finish-
New to me mostly, had some spray experience no training though so yeah I'm a newb.
Hoping you could maybe hear me out on a few but mainly one points on exactly what you're doing- aerosol spraying a guitar and still getting a pro finish-
Can orange peel happen on any stage from colour to clear or does warming up the colour and clear coat cans in buckets of heated water pre spray help atomise the spray mist more finely making a more flat even coat each time?
Or will orange peel just happen regardless like if sealer added post pore filler isn't done up to standard.
is the problem it rooted there in the sealer stag, depending on how flat just after pores are filled and sealer is applied.
Or is it just the way the colour coat pulls together nitro and poly.
Meaning sanding is the only way to deal will orange peel?
Or can good timing and without sanding other than a light rub to flick pokey bits etc fluff and crap like dust etc rather than wearing down the colour to get rid of orange peel all the way, which might be all the way to the last coat,
I was thinking solutions, like Possibly more attention on flattening the sealer at the pore and sealer phase may work further down for more even spread, or can it be dealt with later on?
Like with adding more colour as a filler in and around the orange peel areas?
Apologies- long way round to ask more than one way to find the right knowledge.
Orange peel can, and likely will, happen at least a bit at every stage. Warmed cans with better working propellant, and really good technique, can help. Painting on a nice smooth surface also helps, so it’s good to take out orange peel at each stage by sanding smooth. In general, outside of perfecting your thinner ratios etc for the conditions (which you can’t do with cans), sanding is about the only way to deal with it. Or scraping smooth if you’re very good at that.
@Brad Angove thanks, confirmation, I've been asking about a few sprayers/painters, they all say the same- thin coats let it go to orange peel it's going to anyway, sand out as much as possible to get flat bit keep in mind to keep the sanding flat as a whole area not just the localised orange peel, so wood sanding block right to smooth grit works everytime.. it's not actually a big deal not as much as not keeping each coat clean as hell, naphtha I heard is good but not too much less you're stripping back, then when you see the low spots where colour is at its thickest in places I guess a decent straight edge and really dry wood and patience, with the knowledge of all the spraying materials needed can by can from apoxy grain filler, to sealer to colour and clear- if I asked custom paints uk they'd know the exact cans content for compatability on each stage.
I could hire a spray gun plus compressor locally for the clear coat, if if I can get my head around it in the time I have it and it was effective I'd buy one.
Then figure out the rest from there.
Having some ideas about open grained hardwood, mahogany etc, a colored apoxy like gold or whatever colour in contrast with the wood, the grain filler colouring and accentuates well through a clear coat on top is all just try it out! You're gonna have an idea of what it looks like but only when that last coat of clear is done is when it shows average or awesome.
Hey thanks for replying with your advice, i much appreciated it.
Forgot to ask- and hope you dont mind!-
when matching aerosols for all stages, after pore fill- sealer, colour, clear... what is the key chemicals I need to look out for for compatability, what never to mix and match does it just come down to acrylic or vynl being the right or wrong ingredient.
Thanks again
Regards- Mike
Acrylic plays well with most things, enamel doesn’t play well with anything, vinyl and polyurethane don’t go together, lacquer and polyurethane are fine together usually, and polyester is a very good sealer that cures to a point where I think you can put pretty much whatever you want over it.
@Brad Angove Sounds easy when you know how and what to do now, what not to do ever, and thanks - you're a decent bloke straightforward, covered all the bases i was looking unto . All I can say is ' Namaste 🙏 '. Apparently, you only say that once to any one person in any one day, twice is considered daft. Learned that from my Nepalese friends. After finding out the hard way- point is- you've gone through this for idk how long, clearly have experience, successful and unsuccessful experience is the one and only way on the everlearning road, but that has for me I can say- made the road a lot more straight down the middle clear roads ahead because you've shared good info acquired from your own mistakes and successes, as its said " if you want to see further, stand on the shoulders of giants"
That's anyone who is better than you are, in this case thank you. I'll be sure to try and test as anyone would do, and further down the road pass on the knowledge. Thank fkn God! For You-Tubers.
hey brad great channel! can you use 2k clear on duplicolor metalcast? wait a week after paint then hit it with 2k??
I suspect so, but I’ve never tried it so I don’t know for sure.
Very informative as always. I'm just not setup for 2K though.
That's understandable. Unfortunately, even though it comes in spray cans now, you still need a pretty specific setup to be shooting 2K.
@@BradAngove what kinda setup are you talking about? Maybe a dumb question but I’m pretty new to guitar building
Good ventilation, a quality respirator, and if you’re mixing it, a paint gun and compressor.
I've come to understand, repeatedly, that 220 is the best grit for paint prep. I've been told that 320 is too close to polishing the wood which to a certain degree inhibits good adherence of the paint.
Wait do I need to put some primer on before the duplicolor? Or can I just put grain fill (aqua coat), sand, then start?
how much time between the primer coats did you use? And also... after a week did you happen to wear the same shirt between primer and top coat? It really looks like you did this all on the same day... I thought you were waiting a week after primer before color?
I usually give primer a couple days to dry and then sand if there are any issues. There were no issues here, so I may have done primer and color on the same day and then waited a week before spraying my clear. I have a few of the same or similar cheap shirts that I wear for shop work.
@@BradAngove Thanks for the reply. I have been messing around with guitar pedal boxes and experimenting with primers colors and clear coats. I was ganna say, it looked like it was all done the same day! The Rust Oleum cans do say you can do it all in a day. each coat can go on over the last as long as its within 1 hour... after that you have to wait 2 days... I thought that seemed a little too good to be true.
So you wait a week before clear coat? holy crap. Is spray panting supposed to take this kind of wait time?
I wait a week because the clear is a different paint type than the color in this case. I want enough of the solvents to evaporate out to avoid a reaction.
You can do some spray paint finishes in a day, but if you’re trying for results that are more like professional paint systems, you need to follow a procedure that is more like those.
@@BradAngove Your videos have been helpful man... thank you. Thinking of trying that 2k clear can you spoke of... I do have a full respirator to use.
Last question... I have been drying rust oleum clear coats for well over a week. Its dry enough to sand gently... but if I take my fingernail and press it into it... it does scratch/dent it.... is that just how it is? I figured this stuff would get super hard
Any suggestion on how to get rid of the plastic look on guitars? I think spray painted guitars look like cheap plastic. Your videos helped me a lot int he last few months, and i am building my 3rd guitar right know
What look are you aiming for instead? Perhaps consider a lower sheen finish, or even an oil. Modified tung oil has a very rich look to it over a nice wood and looks nothing like plastic.
Another great looking guitar in the process. Have you ever done an Eerie Dess paint style? Or would you be willing to give it a shot in one of your future videos?
Do you mean iridescent? I've done a few, but not necessarily on the channel. I have one coming up that is somewhat iridescent, and intend on doing a few more as time progresses.
@@BradAngove Sort of like that. Here is a video of the style I'm talking about. Hope it's ok to post this here on your site. ua-cam.com/video/sAqA05FeZOQ/v-deo.html I've only found one guy try this on UA-cam, but it was very amateur and I don't think he even finished it. Was hoping you could give it a shot for an upcoming video. Thanks.
Hey Brad, I know it's an old video, but I'm curious how long you wait for the primer, paint and clear coat to cure before moving on to the next step
I have the primer and color about a week on this one. 24 hours for this clear coat.
Hi Brad, hope you can help me . Can you spray more then two coats of clear gloss with Spraymax 2 pack clear , with spray cans on top of Montana metallic red . ?? Thanks. Keep up the good work.
Sure you can. You can do up to 4 in one session as far as I’m concerned.
@@BradAngovemany tanks Brad. As we say in Australia. YOUR BLOOD’s WORTH BOTTLING . 👍
@joegalea3652 how charming hha
I just used this exact paint the perfect match on a pc case and the texture of the paint came out like sand paper? Is that normal Or should i wet sand it before I use the 2k clear coat?
Nice job. I used to paint cars for a living and painted (pre waterborne) with PPG deltron base and high solids clear, and sometimes Dupont (pre base/clear. I've been out of the business many years, and my guns are deep in storage. Im going to paint with some cans this time. Have you ever done a neck-through guitar ? im just trying to figure out a good mount/stand so I can get the neck and body in one go.
I screw a hook into the bottom strap button hole and hang it when I do a neck through or set neck.
@@BradAngove Thanks, for the tip. I will use this method. I'm just finishing up some bodywork on it. It was cracked badly at the volume hole and 5 position switch slot, and had a bunch of dents. Its a Jackson soloist pro - metallic blue with white binding that has gone yellow (probably from lacquer that was used in '94, from the factory. )
Sounds like a fun project
drop dead gorgeous paintjob brad.
what if i will use a different brand of acrylic primer and base coat (not dupli) and ill use carpaint urethane clear coat, will it still have the same outcome?
Brad, love your videos! I do have a question though. I want to do a finish to a kit that I want to do and I will try to get a screen shot that I did. Here it is..
I don’t think you can send photos through UA-cam comments Albert.
Hey Brad! First off i love your videos! They have helped me alot!
Im at the moment working on refinishing a guitar and have grainfilled the guitar and ready to paint it.
Im a bit unsure if my laquer method Im thinking of will work. I have bought a lacquer that i got recommended for guitar finish(NOT poly though).
I wanna do 3-4 layers. Let it cure for a week.
Sand with 1000 grit till its flat.
3-4 layers on top of that and then sand with 1000 then 1500 and then 2000.
Then polish.
I hope this will give me a nice high gloss.
What do you think?
That should work fine if it's lacquer.
Looks good man
Thanks Blake. Glad you like it.
Awseome vid Brad! Did u sand the primer before paint?
I don't speak for the man but I believe the answer is yes. He always sands the primer before painting to get a better adhesion from the paint
Did I miss this comment somehow? My apologies. Yes; I sand the primer.
Would I be able to do this with out disassembling my guitar? I plan on doing so soon with an old guitar and wanna see how easy I can make it
Without disassembling it at all?
Im not a pro but, I dont recommend it. You can end up spreanding the primer or the duplicolor to the pickups (even if you tape it).
Hey Brad! I just want to say a big thanks for making me aware of SprayMax 2K. Provided you have the right temperature and PPE, it is a dream to use! Keep it up, bud! Well done!
Cheers man. I’m glad it’s worked well for you.
Hi, I’m new to this. After priming/adding any coat, I need to dry it, sand it and clean the surface before adding a new coat right? Thanks
No, you can typically apply three sprayed on coats of solvent based paint about 10-15 minutes apart. Depends on the paint, but then you need to let it dry fully and sand and clean before continuing.
@@BradAngove Thanks man! You’re the best
Hello Brad!
Can I spray Clear Gloss nitrocellulose lacquer over Acrylic Lacquer? Im about to paint my guitar with Pearl/Metallic Acrylic color. Do you recommend applying a Few coats of Clear Nitro after about 30 min to 1 hour (after finishing with the Acrylic color coats)? Or should I wait more and then spray the nitro lacquer after a few days? The problem is, I dont want to sand the Pearl/Metallic. What is your recommendation? Will the Acrylic color coat dry enough if I apply Clear Nitro in very short order?
My plan is this: Nitro sanding sealer-white primer-Acrylic-Nitro Clear.
Sounds about right?
I’d wait a few days. Nitro is a different chemical and could react. The chances of a bad reaction will be reduced if you wait a few days or even a couple weeks.
@@BradAngove ok, will do. After that I apply the Clear Lacquer straight on the piece? No sanding? (im using pearl/metallic)
Yes
Hey Brad…… I just completed a guitar using duplicolor Light Blue Metallic and I cleared over it with 2k. Coming out great, thanks for the video. Have you ever sprayed 2k over Nitrocellulose?
Glad to hear it. And yes, I have.
Any reaction to the NC? Was it a successful finish? Thank you for the response
It was a successful finish. I’ve done it a couple times with no issues at all.
That’s great…… looking forward to doing the same. I’ll keep you posted. 👍🏻
So you didn’t sand the color before you sprayed the clear huh ? I primed and color coated my Gibson on the same day ( hope that doesn’t bite me in the rear). I’ll wait about a week before spraying the 2k clear though. I’d appreciate any comments on the need to sand the color before spraying the clear ( right now I don’t plan on it. Great video.
It’s better to sand, but this is metallic so I couldn’t. Ideally you would spray one coat of the same kind of clear (as a midcoat) and then give it a week or two, sand lightly, and come in with your 2K.
@@BradAngovethanks for your videos. I’m redoing a slot machine with 5 paints including a Montana metallic. I’m thinking of going over the metallic with clear gloss acrylic then sanding so my other layers of paint stick. See any issues with this? Then 2k over the whole thing at the end.
@reiddeschand2385 that’s probably how I would do it. Just test the metallic and clear on something first. Some metallic spray paints aren’t designed to be clear coated.
I make guitars and I need to build/buy a booth. Yours looks interesting. Do you have a video where you talk about it or can share the make and model? Also I did not catch how long you waited between color coats and between clear coats. Cheers - Andrew
10-15 minutes between coats generally. I’m not sure where the boss picked up the booth, but I’ll take a look at the brand next time I’m in the shop. I know you can get similar ones through coast airbrush and probably Eastwood auto.
Hey brad I’m about to use the spraymax gloss on a new glossy project. I was wondering I have another project with a Matte paint, if I did the gloss clear over the matte, would it kind of cancel out that matte finish?
Yes, that would turn the matte finish to gloss.