Great video. I saw this after my first attempt with the hvlp. It's nice to see you have long back and forth conversations in the comment sections, I'm sure it's greatly appreciated.
Lol you're basically answering every concern I've had on spray painting (green pea here but not bad so far!). Well deserved subscribe, thanks for doing this!!
Dude thanks so much I think I'm ready. Ashamed to say my first guitar has been in my garage for years and now looks like garbage. I feel comfortable after your vid to start restoring it and place it with my rest of guitars where it belongs. I will keep you updated.
Hi Brad, I've messaged you on a different thread, but this video was right up the alley of the next phase of my process. I've sanded my Solo kit (spalted maple veneer top and mahogany back) to 600 grit. My intention is to use Mohawk sealer next, and then apply Mohawk Deep Red and Amber lawyers. Finish it off with clear instrument laquer. What should I be doing as far as sanding is concerned between the sealer and the laquer? Should I sand the coloured lawyers before applying the Instrument laquer? And lastly... Do I need to/ should I be using a grain filler on the mahogany back? Long one... So sorry about that! Looking forward to your responses and to more vids! Thanks! Sam
Those damn lawyers. Sand them all haha. Anyway, you should let the sealer dry for a few days and then sand smooth before moving on to the lacquer, but once you are in the lacquer stages there is no need to sand. It will bond to itself. And yes, you should grain fill the mahogany before sealing.
Hi Brad, awesome and very straight forward video. Question. After I've primed my project, do I need to sand the primer dead flat before I paint my artwork on it or is some orange peel okay? I'm having a problem where in the near final steps of my project, I always have massive orange peel and accidently sand off some of my artwork while trying to remove it.
I would try to sand the primer completely flat. Leaving it until later just creates problems at the end. Also, have a look at my video on building up a thick clear coat. Sounds like you’re not getting quite enough on there at the end.
@Brad Angove Thank you so much! I really appreciate it since I've been having so much trouble with orange peels on my finishes. I'll definitely check that video out you suggested!
Hey Brad- I just finished spraying Duplicolor on an EVH build I am doing (black stripe). There is a small area where I have a little run near the horn. But I’m ready to tape for my next coats of white. Should I lightly sand that run out and leave the rest of the body alone? Or should I just tape and spray the white and if there is an imperfection later then deal with it? If I do sand should I apply another light coat of black paint before taping? Thanks man- I’ve learned a lot from you in a few short weeks
Hey, Brad I’ve just applied paint to my guitar using spray cans. (Rustoleum, I may never go this route again. I have access to spray guns and a booth 🤦🏻♂️) Anyway, after my 3rd coat, it’s fairly smooth but there are a few rough areas where dust need up underneath my layers of paint. After it dries, can I just simply sand these spots smooth? If so, would you recommend I go over with another coat of paint after sanding? Just worried I’ll keep getting dust underneath my paint and it will become a never ending issue. I see why spray cans aren’t the recommended route.
Hi Brad! I love your videos - you have just about taught me everything I know about spraypainting👍 I have a question wich I can not seem to find a direct answer to in any of your videos. I am painting a guitar (with airbrush only),wich I sanded with 400 grit before applying some 4-5 light layers of acrylic ink in two sessions with some light 800 sanding between sessions. I saw that when sanding in between sessions, some of the paint (especially on the edges) got sanded through - even though I used only 800 grit,and no pressure. I have also made a quite cool graphic on the front. I would like to put a clearcoat (spraymax 1k matte),but if I have to sand the artwork before applying the clearcoat,I am afraid that even a 800 grit will remove to much paint. My plan is to have an intercoat to seal the work I have done so far,and then further detailing it before applying spraymax 2k clear matte as the finish. My question (finally) is: do I have to sand before the intercoat,and whats the highest grit I can use if I have to sand? And, the final 2k matte finish - do I sand the matte finish or not (I would assume that sanding a matte finish might make it more shiny than matte)? I really appreciate if you can give me answers to this,as i have put much effort into this,but had to redo things a few times already. (If your interested in my project, I have posted a picture of it on my instagram account «beadyguitar»).
You don’t sand airbrush work. It goes on too thin and dry for that. Just go ahead and apply your inter coat. You can sand that instead. You also don’t sand and polish matte. Make sure you have a dust free environment because you can’t really remove imperfections after.
Hi again Brad! A new question has popped up after I sprayed my final clearcoat (spraymax 2k matte) yesterday. How long should I wait until I reassemble my guitar? I thought 24 hours was enough,but it seems like some people are saying that the clearcoat has not hardened properly until weeks later? I really do not want to end up with scratches or dents after putting every piece back together… Btw - I really appreciate you,yout channel, and of course your replies! Thank you for great help!!!!
The 2K, assuming it was correctly activated, should harden fairly well after 24 hours. However, it does continue to harden for about 2 weeks from what I understand. Other uncatalyzed clears take much longer. I’d give it a week or two to be safe.
Hi mate great videos , quick question , 'clear coat' I'm planning lay 2/3 coats first just light so heavier 2 coats after can stick , how long between coats , ill be hoping to lay the clear 30 mins after last coat of base . thanks for your help .
On the whole I agree with ya, Brad -- and I started painting stuff in 1962, roughly. From plastic model cars to real cars/motorcycles, to guitars. Must confess, though, I've never had occasion to use anything finer than 600 grit. Beyond that, whatever I'm working on will most likely get buffed out anyway (several "grits" involved there, too.) Just sayin'. Thanks for another good vid!
+Seth Tyrssen You don't go higher than 600 when you're preparing for buffing/polishing? That's pretty wild. What kind of compound do you use? I know the grits didn't go higher than 600 back in the day, but people used to fight over the worn down pieces so they didn't have to spend all day compounding haha.
Yep - rarely more than 600 grit. On a large buffing machine (which should only be used if you're used to such things) I'll use two grades of compound, the "orange stuff" and the ultra-fine "white stuff." If using a smaller, hand-held polisher, standard Turtle Wax buffing compound would be followed by their clear-coat compound. These guidelines work for either paint or clear coat (if used.) 800 grit paper is as high as I'll ever go; anything else feels like a piece of plain paper, to me!
+Seth Tyrssen I use the handheld polisher and either norton liquid ice or the 3M system usually. I've never really tried buffing something rougher than 1000 though.
Works good, honest. At least, it does with "regular" compounds and a serious buffer. Most of the small hand-held buffers ya find at the local auto parts stores are pretty wimpy, and might not give the same level of results as a Baldor bench-mounted machine or one of the older, heavier buffers.
Hey Brad, what type of fine grit sandpaper do you use? You don't wet sand correct? Most of the no-load dry sanding papers I see online seem to be only in coarse grits.
Great videos man! I'm planning on repainting and older late 80's/early 90's Jackson guitar which is black. I want to do a space scene, so is this the right approach: sand gloss finish off with 600 some black remains, spray with primer, then start my paint job? Where I'm confused is do I need to go all the way to wood in step one or can I leave some black? Also can I ignore primer step all together(unclear what this does opposed to just painting over the black), and if not do I have to sand after the primer coat before painting? Much appreciated!
+Colorado MtnRider you do not need to go all the way to the wood. You just need to rough up the old paint so the new can stick. Primer is important in some cases, but not really when shooting over a prepped paint job. You should be able to skip it. I might be doing some space scene tutorials in the next little while, but "little while" in my upload schedule usually means a couple months haha.
Hi Brad, found your video about sanding although my question isn’t about guitars, hopefully you can help: I’ve refaced my oak cabinets, and applied wood filler (aquacoat). I wanted a smooth finish, I’ve used 150-220 throughout until final primer. After 2nd coat of BIN Zinsser shellac primer I used 220, then went back with a “very fine” 3M sanding pad that was labeled 00, but made of a synthetic material (Home Depot) vs steel wood. I’m ready to paint 1st coat, but now I’m wondering if I went too smooth and not sure if paint (waterbased acrylic-alkyd) will adhere properly. In vid you stated after primer at about 600, but I’m not sure what grit range 00 falls and if you were only referring to guitar primer/paint. In your opinion, do you think the 00 used is enough abrasion for paint to adhere? Also, what timeframe do you think is safe between primer and first paint coat without repriming? (It will 3days before I can start painting) Thanks 🙏
Hi from México, what steps you recommend to paint wood with the rustoleum ultracover 2x cans? Because i don't know if i have to sand between layers for a smooth finish
Have a look at my series on how to paint your guitar with spray cans. That one was done using the rustoleum 2x cans and goes through the whole process.
Ya, most of my examples are on guitars, so I try to direct people to the right information for their projects even if they’re painting a different object.
Hi Brad. As per your advice here and elsewhere, prior to a clear-coat gloss, I have used 800 to 'scuff' the original matt factory finish on the back of my guitar. I am surprised to find that the scuffed back now feels much smoother than the slightly 'grainy' matt front. The residue coming off is white. I presume this is the factory clear top coat. Obviously I mustn't continue to the point I'm taking off [red] paint but, in your view, are things going the way you would expect and should I stop sanding now?
From what you have described I can advise that that is precisely what I would have anticipated. You need only sand until the gloss/reflective areas are gone and appear hazy.
@@BradAngove Brad. Many thanks for your rapid response, as always. As I am modding a brand new factory finish I'm a lot more nervous than if taking on an old dog and tarting it up! Before I buy poly-u, what diff, if any, to the final result between spirit based/water based? I intend to brush on the clear.
In terms of appearance you’ll find that the oil/spirit based poly has an net hue to it, whereas the water based version should generally be crystal clear.
@Brad Angove can you possibly tell me what sandpaper to use to take off blue paint from a outhouse door, it already had 3 different colours of paint when I started sanding it, I was using a Stanley 60 Coarse with a sander, it seems to take forever coming off. Any advice from you would be much appreciated my end. Cheers 😊👍
I’m painting a spoiler and I sanded with 150 and when I apply paint there’s a lot of wrinkles in the paint the pop up after seconds , any info on that?
Hey man, I painted (clear coat)the back and sides of my guitar before the front as I was still working on the front, I now have overspray on the sides, it feels dusty but doesn't wipe away, will this buff out of shall I just recoat the entire body ? Thanks man great videos keep up the great content
+DodgyChris Those are both reasonable options. If you're painting more, just do the whole body. If not, you can sand the overspray off gently and then do your polishing.
Hi I m having problems in high gloss finish. It has waves too much when i finished the panel. I start mdf with 320 grit then i spray epoxy coat . I cut epoxy with 320 grit then i spray primer 2 times . I cut 1st primer coat with 320 grit and 2nd primer coat with 400 grit . Then i spray top coat. 1st top coat i cut with 800 grit and then 2nd top coat i cut with 1000 grit , 1200 grit , 1500 grit and lat 2000 grit. Then i compoung and wax it . After all these steps waves dont go.
@@BradAngove i did. 2 coats of the primer. 2 coats of the black color then sand it off with 1200 grit then 3rd coat of the black spray paint. Last is 3 coats of flat clear. All painted with 1hr drying time intervals
Ok, 400 grit might be a bit high. Try 220. Never sand at 1200 grit before spraying something g. That’s too high. Try 600 for the paint. One hour is probably not a good recoat time. Try 10-15 minutes. Let the primer dry for a couple days and sand it at 400 grit before adding the paint. Same recoat times.
Hey Brad! Great video as always! Question for you... I painted one of my Fender Strats (sanding sealer & primer first) with Duplicolor jet black “Ready to spray Lacquer”, I gave it about 5 coats and I see some orange peel. So, do I have to wet sand it with 600 and 800 and then apply the nitrocellulose clear coat or I can just apply it without sanding and have a nice smooth factory finish? Would the nitrocellulose melt and even out the paint (and orange peel) underneath it? As you can see, I don’t know much and I’m trying to learn from the pros! Thank you in advance for your help!
The duplicolor is acrylic lacquer, not nitro lacquer. You shouldn’t be wet sanding it, but you should sand it flat with 800 before clear coating. Are you putting nitro over it for a particular reason?
Brad Angove I was thinking on using nitro because and to my understanding, Fender uses is it for their Strats and I wanted to make it as close to the original as possible. Your thoughts?
Hi, thanks for this video. Slightly unusual question- Anyone know what grit you'd use if you're applying water based polyurethane onto water based acrylic? I know people do interface different lacquers in this way. I'm guessing it's a fairly coarse grit, as you cannot guarantee good adhesion between the different formula lacquers.
@@BradAngove Many thanks! I've been working with bubinga drum shells. Due to a rather amateur first attempt, I wasn't happy with the finish. I buffed it nicely, but despite having filled the pores (wet sanding linseed oil) the grain never flattened. So I splashed out on some polyurethane and it's working a treat. Fingers crossed it adheres properly!
Hey, I am currently 4 coats in to my flat black paintjob. I did some sanding between the second and third coat to take out some riugh spots. Which grit should i use after the 4th and so on? Also ive been getting a black speckled spotting on my guitar after my third coat, any way to prevent this?
Brad Angove it seems so. I'm using the rustoleum cans. Flat black finish. Should i be shaking the can consistently while panting? The from came out fine, then i moved the the back end and then i got the speckles everywhere not sure the deal here. So would i just use the 600 grit after every light coat? I was seeing if i need to wet sand with 1500 as well in between the final coats, same with the matte clear coat.
Don’t go any higher than 800 grit if you’re adding more coats. They won’t stick properly if it’s too smooth. Have you tried replacing the nozzle on the can? Are you holding the can upright?
Brad Angove it's happening on both of my cans. It's the rustomelum cans with the trigger sprayer. The spray pattern is more of a fan spraying vertically. I'm holding it upright. I just did a coat, the front came out fine but moving onto the back is when I got the speckles. I might try shaking it more thoroughly when I move from front to back.
Hey Brad, I HPLV sprayed two color coats of Rustoleum Enamel, ten minutes apart, and there's some dust specs across the surface of the paint, but otherwise it looks pretty good. What's the best way to handle the dust spec issue before going to clear coat? Should I let it dry, then lightly sand it with 600-800 grit paper, wipe it down with Windex, then apply a light third color coat before moving on to clear coat? How long should I let these color coats dry when dealing with Rustoleum Enamel before moving on to the next step?
You’re on the right track. No need for the third coat of colour though, the clear will fill in the sanding scratches from 800 grit and it will look good. Give it a couple days to dry before you sand and clear.
A little bit of pock mark grain structure is still showing through too, in addition to the dust. I'll give it a few days of drying time before moving forward. It seems like what I saw on your videos is still a little bit of grain structure left on your projects after color coat, and from there, with your clear coating and polishing procedures, it seemed to all blend to a smooth, flat, and glossy finish. That dust effect I referred to is probably little individual pieces of 320 grit left over on the surface from sanding the sealer, grit pieces that didn't come off with the tack cloth. I'll take care of that with the 800 grit as you recommended after it's had a couple days of drying time. Will the 800 grit also take care of that hint of grain structure still visible, or should I fill those little pock marks of grain structure with Timbermate before sanding?
It depends on the depth of the marks, but generally I would recommend dealing with those before clear. The 800 might be enough to sand them out, but if not, just fill and sand again and then add another coat of paint or two. The dust is probably just dust from the air getting trapped.
Thanks very much! Seems to me the grain is deep enough that it would probably be wise to fill and do a third color coat before moving on to clear coats. Not sure about the Timbermate in my application, afterall, I did apply two coats of it, then sanded. Timbermate is water soluable, so maybe it's not being effective with respect to sufficient permenancy after sanding, or maybe it fails when sealer hits it. What do you recommend I fill with after already having initial enamel color coats down? Have you ever tried drywall mud?
i have been watching your vids for a while now, i got some questions though, i was planning to spray paint a box that i have for a very long tims now, problem is, im still new to spray painting, the box i want to paint is painted black, now for the question, is it ok for me to use spray paint immediately without even using some sandpaper on it first? what would the box paint job look like when its done? would there be a big difference if i used sandpaper or not?
There is two types of adhesion we are looking at here 1 is chemical such as lacure. The other is mechanical which is what most of the newer type paints fall into . enamel urithane and so on.
To clarify: enamel and urethane will also bond chemically, but only within the re coat times. After that you have to sand to create mechanical adhesion again.
Brad Angove indeed unfortunately that window closes far to quickly at times the thing to do if they're in doubt read the p sheath or back of the can sometimes has it. The liable isn't big enough to tell us all those things unfortunately. And I'm not nessisary trying to correct you but to let the viewers know some things that may have slipped your mind,
Very helpful. Fun fact: misophonia is when hearing certain noises repels folks to a phobic standard. There's a smacking noise in your audio from dry mouth and salivary sounds; highly recommend working on smoothing that out so you retain more audience. Just one viewer (with misophonia)'s advice. It's general AV, but! Whoo could you lose lots of audience without it. I can't come back, even though this was helpfuL!! so, hopefully that feedback was of use.
@@BradAngove looking to do a relic job over a my existing sunburst poly so would be lacquer color first and then clear. You think 800 to get the color to stick?
@@BradAngove Thanks bro. Love the channel and the helpful videos. Saw somewhere you are from Alberta. I'm right south of you in Kalispell, MT. If you take on projects I might save myself some time. Do you give quotes?
Hi, I am from the UK and have been re-painting my front door which was originally black. I think our grit differs. 40 is the toughest and goes up to 100 being the smoothest. I used a 40 grit to sand the black paint. In between the three coats of undercoat, I used 80. The first top coat, probably due to the sun shining directly onto the door, dried on contact and was patchy. I applied a second coat today, but it still is, in places patchy and requires a further coat. Before I apply the third coat, I need to sand down. Should I use the lightest 100 or 80, which is slightly more gritty, allowing me to apply a thin layer of paint to finish. Your assistance would be gratefully appreciated.
100 is still pretty rough, but woodworking sandpaper is often only available is those lower grits (usually up to nothing more than 220). I definitely wouldn’t go any rougher than 100 for that.
Brad Angove That’s very kind of you to take the time and trouble to respond. I have worked exceptionally hard on the prep and don’t wish to botch it up at the last hurdle. I shall take it easy with the 100 grade. Thank you; much appreciated.
I know painting work I can you joining any company know? Please sir I request my skills are car painting now working car shop u have to trust me please sir
You answered every question I had. Thanks.
Great series Brad. This one in particular is extra helpful, thanks!
+chutni -fier I'm glad to hear it. Thanks for watching.
Great video. I saw this after my first attempt with the hvlp. It's nice to see you have long back and forth conversations in the comment sections, I'm sure it's greatly appreciated.
I’m glad you like the video. Thanks
Lol you're basically answering every concern I've had on spray painting (green pea here but not bad so far!). Well deserved subscribe, thanks for doing this!!
Thanks for watching.
@@BradAngove I made an order for 100$ worth of hardcore2 and mtn94 yesterday loo, should be fun! Any experience with mtn's products?
They’re generally pretty decent.
Dude thanks so much I think I'm ready. Ashamed to say my first guitar has been in my garage for years and now looks like garbage. I feel comfortable after your vid to start restoring it and place it with my rest of guitars where it belongs. I will keep you updated.
I hope it goes well for you.
Very informative. Thank you
Thanks for the video. Helped with an area of concern I have had on refinishing.
+Wallace Sheckells I'm glad to hear it. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the tips! Now i know what to do before painting because I'm restoring my cheap drum set 😆🥰 Thanks again! From the Philippines!🥰
I hope your project goes well.
Hi Brad,
I've messaged you on a different thread, but this video was right up the alley of the next phase of my process.
I've sanded my Solo kit (spalted maple veneer top and mahogany back) to 600 grit.
My intention is to use Mohawk sealer next, and then apply Mohawk Deep Red and Amber lawyers. Finish it off with clear instrument laquer.
What should I be doing as far as sanding is concerned between the sealer and the laquer?
Should I sand the coloured lawyers before applying the Instrument laquer?
And lastly... Do I need to/ should I be using a grain filler on the mahogany back?
Long one... So sorry about that! Looking forward to your responses and to more vids!
Thanks!
Sam
*lawyers = laquers
Those damn lawyers. Sand them all haha.
Anyway, you should let the sealer dry for a few days and then sand smooth before moving on to the lacquer, but once you are in the lacquer stages there is no need to sand. It will bond to itself.
And yes, you should grain fill the mahogany before sealing.
@@BradAngove thanks for the quick reply and the advice. You're the man!
Thanks, really appreciate this.
Should I worry about sandpaper rating? CAMI vs FESA, etc.
Hi Brad, awesome and very straight forward video. Question. After I've primed my project, do I need to sand the primer dead flat before I paint my artwork on it or is some orange peel okay? I'm having a problem where in the near final steps of my project, I always have massive orange peel and accidently sand off some of my artwork while trying to remove it.
I would try to sand the primer completely flat. Leaving it until later just creates problems at the end.
Also, have a look at my video on building up a thick clear coat. Sounds like you’re not getting quite enough on there at the end.
@Brad Angove Thank you so much! I really appreciate it since I've been having so much trouble with orange peels on my finishes. I'll definitely check that video out you suggested!
Hey Brad- I just finished spraying Duplicolor on an EVH build I am doing (black stripe). There is a small area where I have a little run near the horn. But I’m ready to tape for my next coats of white. Should I lightly sand that run out and leave the rest of the body alone? Or should I just tape and spray the white and if there is an imperfection later then deal with it? If I do sand should I apply another light coat of black paint before taping? Thanks man- I’ve learned a lot from you in a few short weeks
Let the whole thing dry for a couple days and then sand the run out. Scuff the whole guitar lightly with 800 grit and then tape and spray your white.
Brad Angove I would buy you beers if you were in NJ. Thanks a lot.
You’re welcome.
Hi I like this video but I have a question, what kind of sand paper do you need to sand a silicone phone case
What are you sanding a phone case for?
Hey, Brad
I’ve just applied paint to my guitar using spray cans. (Rustoleum, I may never go this route again. I have access to spray guns and a booth 🤦🏻♂️)
Anyway, after my 3rd coat, it’s fairly smooth but there are a few rough areas where dust need up underneath my layers of paint. After it dries, can I just simply sand these spots smooth? If so, would you recommend I go over with another coat of paint after sanding? Just worried I’ll keep getting dust underneath my paint and it will become a never ending issue.
I see why spray cans aren’t the recommended route.
Yes, you can sand those out before moving on to your clear coat or your polishing depending on what stage you’re at.
Yes, you can sand those out before moving on to your clear coat or your polishing depending on what stage you’re at.
Hi Brad! I love your videos - you have just about taught me everything I know about spraypainting👍 I have a question wich I can not seem to find a direct answer to in any of your videos. I am painting a guitar (with airbrush only),wich I sanded with 400 grit before applying some 4-5 light layers of acrylic ink in two sessions with some light 800 sanding between sessions. I saw that when sanding in between sessions, some of the paint (especially on the edges) got sanded through - even though I used only 800 grit,and no pressure. I have also made a quite cool graphic on the front. I would like to put a clearcoat (spraymax 1k matte),but if I have to sand the artwork before applying the clearcoat,I am afraid that even a 800 grit will remove to much paint. My plan is to have an intercoat to seal the work I have done so far,and then further detailing it before applying spraymax 2k clear matte as the finish. My question (finally) is: do I have to sand before the intercoat,and whats the highest grit I can use if I have to sand? And, the final 2k matte finish - do I sand the matte finish or not (I would assume that sanding a matte finish might make it more shiny than matte)? I really appreciate if you can give me answers to this,as i have put much effort into this,but had to redo things a few times already. (If your interested in my project, I have posted a picture of it on my instagram account «beadyguitar»).
You don’t sand airbrush work. It goes on too thin and dry for that. Just go ahead and apply your inter coat. You can sand that instead.
You also don’t sand and polish matte. Make sure you have a dust free environment because you can’t really remove imperfections after.
Thanks for your reply - I really appreciate it!! 🙌
Hi again Brad! A new question has popped up after I sprayed my final clearcoat (spraymax 2k matte) yesterday. How long should I wait until I reassemble my guitar? I thought 24 hours was enough,but it seems like some people are saying that the clearcoat has not hardened properly until weeks later? I really do not want to end up with scratches or dents after putting every piece back together… Btw - I really appreciate you,yout channel, and of course your replies! Thank you for great help!!!!
The 2K, assuming it was correctly activated, should harden fairly well after 24 hours. However, it does continue to harden for about 2 weeks from what I understand. Other uncatalyzed clears take much longer.
I’d give it a week or two to be safe.
Thanks a bunch!!👍🙌
What would you recommend for plastics
Have a look at my video on how to paint plastic parts properly.
@@BradAngove will do, thanks
Hi mate great videos , quick question , 'clear coat' I'm planning lay 2/3 coats first just light so heavier 2 coats after can stick , how long between coats , ill be hoping to lay the clear 30 mins after last coat of base . thanks for your help .
10-15 minutes between coats usually.
Great tips!
Thank you sir.
Brad Angove dude send you a message, check it
I'm pretty sure I replied to your message before your comment haha.
On the whole I agree with ya, Brad -- and I started painting stuff in 1962, roughly. From plastic model cars to real cars/motorcycles, to guitars. Must confess, though, I've never had occasion to use anything finer than 600 grit. Beyond that, whatever I'm working on will most likely get buffed out anyway (several "grits" involved there, too.) Just sayin'. Thanks for another good vid!
+Seth Tyrssen You don't go higher than 600 when you're preparing for buffing/polishing? That's pretty wild. What kind of compound do you use? I know the grits didn't go higher than 600 back in the day, but people used to fight over the worn down pieces so they didn't have to spend all day compounding haha.
Yep - rarely more than 600 grit. On a large buffing machine (which should only be used if you're used to such things) I'll use two grades of compound, the "orange stuff" and the ultra-fine "white stuff." If using a smaller, hand-held polisher, standard Turtle Wax buffing compound would be followed by their clear-coat compound. These guidelines work for either paint or clear coat (if used.) 800 grit paper is as high as I'll ever go; anything else feels like a piece of plain paper, to me!
+Seth Tyrssen I use the handheld polisher and either norton liquid ice or the 3M system usually. I've never really tried buffing something rougher than 1000 though.
Works good, honest. At least, it does with "regular" compounds and a serious buffer. Most of the small hand-held buffers ya find at the local auto parts stores are pretty wimpy, and might not give the same level of results as a Baldor bench-mounted machine or one of the older, heavier buffers.
Hey Brad, what type of fine grit sandpaper do you use? You don't wet sand correct? Most of the no-load dry sanding papers I see online seem to be only in coarse grits.
Usually 3M trizact or Mirka abralon. Norton also makes good stuff. Some micro mesh as well.
I wet sand some stuff. Usually not guitars.
@@BradAngove Thanks, do you do your fine grit sanding with a random orbital or by hand?
@@bierce85 A combination of the two. I like to do my final finish sand by hand these days.
great video !
Thank you.
What about an oil finish Brad?
You don’t generally need to sand between coats on oil finishes.
@@BradAngove i know that! But up to what grit before applying the oil 240, 320, 400? And would you advise thinning the 1st coat or 2?
I’d go 320. The thinning depends on the wood. On a porous wood I will thin the first couple coats to help soak in.
@@BradAngove THANK YOU!
Great videos man! I'm planning on repainting and older late 80's/early 90's Jackson guitar which is black. I want to do a space scene, so is this the right approach: sand gloss finish off with 600 some black remains, spray with primer, then start my paint job? Where I'm confused is do I need to go all the way to wood in step one or can I leave some black? Also can I ignore primer step all together(unclear what this does opposed to just painting over the black), and if not do I have to sand after the primer coat before painting? Much appreciated!
+Colorado MtnRider you do not need to go all the way to the wood. You just need to rough up the old paint so the new can stick.
Primer is important in some cases, but not really when shooting over a prepped paint job. You should be able to skip it.
I might be doing some space scene tutorials in the next little while, but "little while" in my upload schedule usually means a couple months haha.
Brad Angove Much appreciated. Keep up the good work!
+Colorado MtnRider Thank you.
Hi Brad, found your video about sanding although my question isn’t about guitars, hopefully you can help: I’ve refaced my oak cabinets, and applied wood filler (aquacoat). I wanted a smooth finish, I’ve used 150-220 throughout until final primer. After 2nd coat of BIN Zinsser shellac primer I used 220, then went back with a “very fine” 3M sanding pad that was labeled 00, but made of a synthetic material (Home Depot) vs steel wood. I’m ready to paint 1st coat, but now I’m wondering if I went too smooth and not sure if paint (waterbased acrylic-alkyd) will adhere properly. In vid you stated after primer at about 600, but I’m not sure what grit range 00 falls and if you were only referring to guitar primer/paint. In your opinion, do you think the 00 used is enough abrasion for paint to adhere? Also, what timeframe do you think is safe between primer and first paint coat without repriming? (It will 3days before I can start painting) Thanks 🙏
00 should work. 0000 is too fine. 3 days will be unless you put the primer on crazy heavy.
Hi from México, what steps you recommend to paint wood with the rustoleum ultracover 2x cans? Because i don't know if i have to sand between layers for a smooth finish
Have a look at my series on how to paint your guitar with spray cans. That one was done using the rustoleum 2x cans and goes through the whole process.
@@BradAngove thanks, a lot of people ask you about everything, not only guitars, and you're very kind to answer, thanks a lot
Ya, most of my examples are on guitars, so I try to direct people to the right information for their projects even if they’re painting a different object.
What grit for wood that is stained already? Painting a door that is stained. Not trying to completley strip it, just rough it up for primer.
Is it just stained, or is there a varnish or something on it?
Hi Brad. As per your advice here and elsewhere, prior to a clear-coat gloss, I have used 800 to 'scuff' the original matt factory finish on the back of my guitar. I am surprised to find that the scuffed back now feels much smoother than the slightly 'grainy' matt front. The residue coming off is white. I presume this is the factory clear top coat. Obviously I mustn't continue to the point I'm taking off [red] paint but, in your view, are things going the way you would expect and should I stop sanding now?
From what you have described I can advise that that is precisely what I would have anticipated. You need only sand until the gloss/reflective areas are gone and appear hazy.
@@BradAngove Brad. Many thanks for your rapid response, as always. As I am modding a brand new factory finish I'm a lot more nervous than if taking on an old dog and tarting it up! Before I buy poly-u, what diff, if any, to the final result between spirit based/water based? I intend to brush on the clear.
In terms of appearance you’ll find that the oil/spirit based poly has an net hue to it, whereas the water based version should generally be crystal clear.
@@BradAngove Any yellow cast will make this dark red tend towards brown. Noooo!
Many thanks. We are go here.
@Brad Angove can you possibly tell me what sandpaper to use to take off blue paint from a outhouse door, it already had 3 different colours of paint when I started sanding it, I was using a Stanley 60 Coarse with a sander, it seems to take forever coming off. Any advice from you would be much appreciated my end. Cheers 😊👍
You may want to consider using the heat gun and scraper method. I demonstrate it in my video on how to remove the paint from your guitar.
@@BradAngove ok that's brilliant matey I haven't got a heat gun but dad has, I'll try it tomorrow then I will let you know 👍
Hi Brad, is it possible to polish clear coat on a guitar body after sanding flat with 600 grit, thanks
600 is probably too rough. If you have a nice polishing wheel you may be able to polish out 1200 grit scratches though.
@@BradAngove Hi, thanks for the help, appreciated
I’m painting a spoiler and I sanded with 150 and when I apply paint there’s a lot of wrinkles in the paint the pop up after seconds , any info on that?
Have a look at my video on why your paint is crazing.
Hey man, I painted (clear coat)the back and sides of my guitar before the front as I was still working on the front, I now have overspray on the sides, it feels dusty but doesn't wipe away, will this buff out of shall I just recoat the entire body ? Thanks man great videos keep up the great content
+DodgyChris Those are both reasonable options. If you're painting more, just do the whole body. If not, you can sand the overspray off gently and then do your polishing.
Hey Brad, do I need a sealer before applying primer /base coat to a bare wood body?
Sealer is a good idea. It essentially negates the need for primer though.
Brad Angove thank you for the quick answer as I will be spray painting with a solvent based paint and then intercoat / clear.
You’re welcome. I hope it goes well for you.
Hi
I m having problems in high gloss finish. It has waves too much when i finished the panel.
I start mdf with 320 grit then i spray epoxy coat . I cut epoxy with 320 grit then i spray primer 2 times . I cut 1st primer coat with 320 grit and 2nd primer coat with 400 grit . Then i spray top coat. 1st top coat i cut with 800 grit and then 2nd top coat i cut with 1000 grit , 1200 grit , 1500 grit and lat 2000 grit.
Then i compoung and wax it .
After all these steps waves dont go.
Are you using a sanding block?
What grit works in stainless steel? I use 400 grit and the paint always chips?
Do you use a metal compatible primer?
@@BradAngove i did. 2 coats of the primer. 2 coats of the black color then sand it off with 1200 grit then 3rd coat of the black spray paint.
Last is 3 coats of flat clear.
All painted with 1hr drying time intervals
Ok, 400 grit might be a bit high. Try 220.
Never sand at 1200 grit before spraying something g. That’s too high. Try 600 for the paint.
One hour is probably not a good recoat time. Try 10-15 minutes. Let the primer dry for a couple days and sand it at 400 grit before adding the paint. Same recoat times.
Hey Brad!
Great video as always!
Question for you... I painted one of my Fender Strats (sanding sealer & primer first) with Duplicolor jet black “Ready to spray Lacquer”, I gave it about 5 coats and I see some orange peel. So, do I have to wet sand it with 600 and 800 and then apply the nitrocellulose clear coat or I can just apply it without sanding and have a nice smooth factory finish?
Would the nitrocellulose melt and even out the paint (and orange peel) underneath it?
As you can see, I don’t know much and I’m trying to learn from the pros!
Thank you in advance for your help!
The duplicolor is acrylic lacquer, not nitro lacquer. You shouldn’t be wet sanding it, but you should sand it flat with 800 before clear coating. Are you putting nitro over it for a particular reason?
Brad Angove
I was thinking on using nitro because and to my understanding, Fender uses is it for their Strats and I wanted to make it as close to the original as possible.
Your thoughts?
Hi, thanks for this video. Slightly unusual question- Anyone know what grit you'd use if you're applying water based polyurethane onto water based acrylic? I know people do interface different lacquers in this way. I'm guessing it's a fairly coarse grit, as you cannot guarantee good adhesion between the different formula lacquers.
About 600 grit should work fine.
@@BradAngove Many thanks! I've been working with bubinga drum shells. Due to a rather amateur first attempt, I wasn't happy with the finish. I buffed it nicely, but despite having filled the pores (wet sanding linseed oil) the grain never flattened. So I splashed out on some polyurethane and it's working a treat. Fingers crossed it adheres properly!
Hey, I am currently 4 coats in to my flat black paintjob. I did some sanding between the second and third coat to take out some riugh spots. Which grit should i use after the 4th and so on? Also ive been getting a black speckled spotting on my guitar after my third coat, any way to prevent this?
600 grit.
Is your can spitting weird or something?
Brad Angove it seems so. I'm using the rustoleum cans. Flat black finish. Should i be shaking the can consistently while panting? The from came out fine, then i moved the the back end and then i got the speckles everywhere not sure the deal here. So would i just use the 600 grit after every light coat? I was seeing if i need to wet sand with 1500 as well in between the final coats, same with the matte clear coat.
Don’t go any higher than 800 grit if you’re adding more coats. They won’t stick properly if it’s too smooth.
Have you tried replacing the nozzle on the can? Are you holding the can upright?
Brad Angove it's happening on both of my cans. It's the rustomelum cans with the trigger sprayer. The spray pattern is more of a fan spraying vertically. I'm holding it upright. I just did a coat, the front came out fine but moving onto the back is when I got the speckles. I might try shaking it more thoroughly when I move from front to back.
You need to shake it every minute or so. I’ve had issues with those trigger style cans before as well.
Hey Brad,
I HPLV sprayed two color coats of Rustoleum Enamel, ten minutes apart, and there's some dust specs across the surface of the paint, but otherwise it looks pretty good. What's the best way to handle the dust spec issue before going to clear coat? Should I let it dry, then lightly sand it with 600-800 grit paper, wipe it down with Windex, then apply a light third color coat before moving on to clear coat? How long should I let these color coats dry when dealing with Rustoleum Enamel before moving on to the next step?
You’re on the right track. No need for the third coat of colour though, the clear will fill in the sanding scratches from 800 grit and it will look good.
Give it a couple days to dry before you sand and clear.
A little bit of pock mark grain structure is still showing through too, in addition to the dust. I'll give it a few days of drying time before moving forward.
It seems like what I saw on your videos is still a little bit of grain structure left on your projects after color coat, and from there, with your clear coating and polishing procedures, it seemed to all blend to a smooth, flat, and glossy finish.
That dust effect I referred to is probably little individual pieces of 320 grit left over on the surface from sanding the sealer, grit pieces that didn't come off with the tack cloth. I'll take care of that with the 800 grit as you recommended after it's had a couple days of drying time.
Will the 800 grit also take care of that hint of grain structure still visible, or should I fill those little pock marks of grain structure with Timbermate before sanding?
It depends on the depth of the marks, but generally I would recommend dealing with those before clear. The 800 might be enough to sand them out, but if not, just fill and sand again and then add another coat of paint or two.
The dust is probably just dust from the air getting trapped.
Thanks very much! Seems to me the grain is deep enough that it would probably be wise to fill and do a third color coat before moving on to clear coats. Not sure about the Timbermate in my application, afterall, I did apply two coats of it, then sanded. Timbermate is water soluable, so maybe it's not being effective with respect to sufficient permenancy after sanding, or maybe it fails when sealer hits it.
What do you recommend I fill with after already having initial enamel color coats down? Have you ever tried drywall mud?
The timbermate is probably just shrinking as it dries. It does that. You can use it again or use drywall putty. It works fine too.
600 for primer ? I would think 180 would be more then enough.
i have been watching your vids for a while now, i got some questions though,
i was planning to spray paint a box that i have for a very long tims now, problem is, im still new to spray painting, the box i want to paint is painted black, now for the question, is it ok for me to use spray paint immediately without even using some sandpaper on it first?
what would the box paint job look like when its done?
would there be a big difference if i used sandpaper or not?
ersenik ersenik You need to use sandpaper so the new paint will stick. Otherwise it will be more likely to chip off.
There is two types of adhesion we are looking at here 1 is chemical such as lacure. The other is mechanical which is what most of the newer type paints fall into . enamel urithane and so on.
To clarify: enamel and urethane will also bond chemically, but only within the re coat times. After that you have to sand to create mechanical adhesion again.
Brad Angove indeed unfortunately that window closes far to quickly at times the thing to do if they're in doubt read the p sheath or back of the can sometimes has it. The liable isn't big enough to tell us all those things unfortunately. And I'm not nessisary trying to correct you but to let the viewers know some things that may have slipped your mind,
+Krusty Buzzard Haha you can correct me any time you want. I'm happy have my information updated if it's incorrect.
what grid of sandpaper using bike alloy wheels
+Mr Dhamodharan It's not the material that affects what grit you should be using really. It's the stage of the paint job.
Where are you buying your high grit sandpaper?
+Bethesda Woodworks Typically from a local paint shop. It's generally available online as well though.
Very helpful. Fun fact: misophonia is when hearing certain noises repels folks to a phobic standard. There's a smacking noise in your audio from dry mouth and salivary sounds; highly recommend working on smoothing that out so you retain more audience. Just one viewer (with misophonia)'s advice. It's general AV, but! Whoo could you lose lots of audience without it. I can't come back, even though this was helpfuL!! so, hopefully that feedback was of use.
Hi Brad, what sandpaper grit would you scuff an existing poly with to finish with a nitrocellulose lacquer top coat?
Just a top coat? Probably 800 grit.
@@BradAngove looking to do a relic job over a my existing sunburst poly so would be lacquer color first and then clear. You think 800 to get the color to stick?
Yes, that’s what I would go with.
@@BradAngove Thanks bro. Love the channel and the helpful videos. Saw somewhere you are from Alberta. I'm right south of you in Kalispell, MT. If you take on projects I might save myself some time. Do you give quotes?
I do some commission work, but I’m not taking on anything new for the next couple months because I have a backlog.
Hi, I am from the UK and have been re-painting my front door which was originally black.
I think our grit differs. 40 is the toughest and goes up to 100 being the smoothest.
I used a 40 grit to sand the black paint. In between the three coats of undercoat, I used 80.
The first top coat, probably due to the sun shining directly onto the door, dried on contact and was patchy.
I applied a second coat today, but it still is, in places patchy and requires a further coat.
Before I apply the third coat, I need to sand down.
Should I use the lightest 100 or 80, which is slightly more gritty, allowing me to apply a thin layer of paint to finish.
Your assistance would be gratefully appreciated.
100 is still pretty rough, but woodworking sandpaper is often only available is those lower grits (usually up to nothing more than 220).
I definitely wouldn’t go any rougher than 100 for that.
Brad Angove
That’s very kind of you to take the time and trouble to respond.
I have worked exceptionally hard on the prep and don’t wish to botch it up at the last hurdle.
I shall take it easy with the 100 grade.
Thank you; much appreciated.
i am doing Matte paint, so, i guess go straight to 800 after primer? just looking for a professional-ish look, i don't do this for a living
You’re not using a matte clear coat over top?
I usually use a paint brush or spray can as opposed to sandpaper to paint. 🤷🏿♂️
If you’re looking for a professional looking finish on something that isn’t essentially canvas, you need sandpaper.
Your profile picture makes you look like a self-help guru channel
+Simon Riley hmmm that sounds unfortunate.
He is... he changed Tony Robbin's life.
For painting what?
Easter eggs.
ok so just use any sandpaper it just depends
I know painting work I can you joining any company know? Please sir I request
my skills are car painting now working car shop u have to trust me please sir
Are you trying to get a job in the comments section of my video?
B
The answer is NONE! You can't paint with sandpaper!
+Stoney Browning incorrect. I recently posted a video where I painted a guitar with wiping poly and a piece of 1500 grit.
+Stoney Browning it was titled: how to apply a perfectly smooth poly finish by hand
r/woooosh
Why is this on a video channel if there is nothing to show
Because it’s a video. Go ahead, ask me another.