@@beeenn649 I flush my 4.6 every summer and run it with no thermostat. I have pulled 4 cars, several couches, and some heavier stuff with it. Nobody understands that the 4.6 block and transmission is the same platform as the truck but it does not have the same heads and intake.
I believe this sensor is bad on my 2001 grand marquis. It randomly spikes the temperature gauge to maxed out and starts to kinda sputter then it goes back to normal temp reading and car resumes normal power. It never overheats either. Is this similar to what caused you to replace this part? Thanks for the video
I replaced mine because it looked old and my temp gauge was not rising when the engine temp got hot like it should. I also ended up with a misfire at normal temp so I was skeptical if it was getting hotter than it should before the fans turned on. 2001 is a different model, last one I had for 01 town car the motor went bad at 190,000. They have a cylinder overheat protection mode that will cut off fuel to protect the motor when overheated but I am not sure if 2001 has it, I know 05 and up does. I suggest replacing it if the temp does not operate properly because it can damage your engine if it doesn't know when to turn the fans on. I ended up removing my thermostat because my car has 289,000 miles and I plan to do the head gaskets soon to fix the higher temp misfire and my 170 to 190 psi compression issue I am having. It will be head gaskets, inspect timing components, and clean head ports / valves along with lapping them and making sure they seat with new valve seals. The pre 2005 engines from what I have seen were built with weak connecting rods. So any kind of over rev or slip of the transmission under load can basically cause a "money shift" over rev and stretch the rods and blow up the pistons. Official police interceptor motors out of police cars are seasoned and have the internals to keep going, if they didn't they would be replaced with a motorcraft crate engine under dealer warranty. I removed the core of my thermostat to keep my engine cold since the coolant temp and pressure was causing my issues. It's basically snipping the left and right metal sides of the thermostat to get the spring and center out along with pulling off the 2 dangling top pieces that will remain once you cut the core retainer. You have to make sure the pieces that held the center are all off of it so all you have left is the solid center to put in and use with the seal to seal the housing. It's basically just a O once you remove the core and side pieces they stamp the metal to hold it in place. You also want to make sure your reserve tank is full because sometimes it can look full but it's not. You just start the car cold and fill the coolant to the full line. You can also get into changing the water pump if it is old along with changing the thermostat if it is old. I recommend tightening the 2 bolts just a slight turn to get the threads to move then loosening them because they can be stuck on. So this in all would be the temp sensor, water pump and thermostat. The other reason I run my car and keep a core less thermostat portion in my glove box is to check and make sure my cooling system is not clogged and it stays at a low temp while driving on the highway and or with my air conditioning turned on and the fan operating for that portion and keeping it in the cold temps / Guage basically at the bottom like when you first start your car. The core less thermostat I made by as described let's the coolant circulate full blast so if it were to not stay at low temp it would mean that the radiator was clogged and not cooling efficiently. Head gasket issues can cause a temp climb along with a clogged radiator or bad water pump. So it's all how you or your mechanic knows the car like the back of your hand. We also get the bad intake gaskets or the coolant pass through underneath the intake having bad gaskets, leaking coolant and causing issues. The piece that goes across the front of the intake under it with 6 bolts has a gasket that can leak out your coolant and make overheating / loss of coolant issues too. You will see crust on the front / back of intake if it is leaking. Maule has the little gaskets for that front intake piece with the 6 bolts under it. I replaced this sensor because it was going from normal to peak hot when I was doing the head gasket misfire diagnosis as far as intentionally overheating the engine with the fan unplugged to see if the needle was rising or peeking from normal to immediately hot. It is a problem with the 4.6 where the sensor goes bad and does not read the portion between normal and hot. I suspect it might have had something to do with more thermal stress on my engine leading to head gasket issues.
I just did this on a 98 Grand Marquis. The socket size that fits the sensor is 3/4" 6pt deep well. Go to Harbor Freight and buy some "Socket Caps" ($5.00) and use one on the end of the socket. This makes access so much easier with a 9/16" open end wrench.
Supposed to be two sensors, one is in the same area as this one attached to the cylinder head along with one in the top of the intake manifold. There is usually a wire for this CHT sensor that follows it under the intake manifold with a 2 pin connector between the wiring harness before it goes down under the intake. The CHT sensor here is the important one. This car is a 2005 and my other as similar is 06. Chassis changed from steering box in early models to rack and pinion. But the engine is about the same other than intake manifold designs and coil pack to coil on plug.
I purchased two CHT sensors and on both, threads were to large. Wouldnt even make it a 1/4 inch in. My next spot is ford for original but I heard you say you used tx91 from oreilly? For a 2001 ford crown Victoria, it fit like OEM? That would be very time saving for me right now. And yes, is soon as I put the socket on the old, it broke the plastic 😂😂😂 I started to panic a little bit when the other two sensors didn’t fit 😂😂 Thanks for the video
@@Omnipresence99 Thank you :) Yea the standard one worked. But I always recommend motorcraft. I just couldn't find a motorcraft online that fit my harness. But now after looking at stuff I think I might experiment with filing off the lines that keep the sensor from plugging into the harness and see how they work for research. The 4.6 also has issues with radiator flow so I took out my thermostat for the summer and am almost ready to put it back in for winter. But I am going to try to purchase a motorcraft thermostat for my car. Because I have found the thermostat mouths on different brands are not around the same size as OEM on different vehicles. I have lost trust in aftermarket parts, but I still use them for certain situations as long as I am comfortable with their performance or am able to test them and change them without major processes to install and remove them.
@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf I’m running into the same issue with finding a motor craft part that fits mine. It says it’s not an exact fit. I’m going up there tomorrow with the old part to compare and I will do the same at oreilly. Already tried Napa and it was a no. The symptoms I’m having are rough idle, bogging down when I open the throttle, and it was popping a few months ago. It’s choking pretty bad. A few days ago white smoke came out the tail pipes. Pretty thick and strong toxic smell. Never happened before. So I just cut it if and referred back to the codes I pulled in April which was p01288 CHT sensor and p1137 sensor indicates lean. So that’s where I’m at and starting with CHT Sensor then upstream 02 sensor since I already replaced idle air valve gasket and MAF sensor
@@Omnipresence99 I also broke my old one and super glued it temporarily when my motorcraft ones didn't fit the connector. There will be a variance for 2001 with a sensor in the intake manifold and the one in the head. So it's a little different with the sensor sizes on earlier models. I don't know if they are the same, but they look the same for ford except for the little line they put in the rectangle. The standard sensor has no lines on it, a that's why I was thinking of modifying one and testing it to see if it works properly. My car has a weird little glitch with stumbling when hot. But I noticed all the Ford's do quick climbs when they get hot on the dash indicator but the PID readings are normal increments if you read them with the obd. Another thing that goes bad is the fan module. But I got one for my other Lincoln on eBay with the whole shroud, fan and module for around 100.00 Wrecking yards have them on the interceptors in good condition too. But it's very common to get debris and circulation flow issues in the radiator and engine. So I always go towards clipping off the lower v of a old thermostat with wire cutters and twisting off the tabs of the loose upper pieces so you have a open thermostat to remedy any overheating issues and monitor if the cooling system is flowing, clogged or just needs some time to open back up. My car has a small coolant leak from my intake manifold that I have repaired several times and I also run a special sealer to keep it from leaking in general. So with how everything acts during the summer and winter I just change between the two to keep it happy. But I also notice a point where the system does not have a good circulation design with the coolant tank .etc. So I have that thermostat thing for a method specifically for the 4.6 when temps don't stay exact. It also helps for flushing a old system when your filling, driving, testing and dropping the fluid to clear debris. There is also the warm the engine to temp and feel the radiator procedure But that is difficult because you have to remove the fan shroud to touch or work through it with a temp gun to see if there is blockage. I don't get the overheat errors or signs on mine, but I do have times where it feels like the system goes into overheat protection and stumbles / misfires when hot. I overhauled the head gaskets, valves .etc a year or 2 ago and everything was a lot better. But everyone has the overheating thing for a few different reasons and that cht sensor is mainly a remedy for cooling fansnot working or the temp does not change / read. I changed mine because it was old and ugly. But the dash still moves in jumps instead of normal movements because that's just how they are designed to work. Also know that 96 to 2005 era engines "I think or guess" were built with not as strong internals. So around 199,000 miles rods and pistons can fall apart, stretch or fail. I killed several of them in my lifetime, also had transmission slips under full throttle .etc from bad solenoids kill them too. So just be aware that if you ever have to replace your motor. The police interceptor motors and 2005 and up also have a longer life expectancy. I use Castrol engine oil and motorcraft oil filters on mine and it has 300,000 miles. But when I got it the engine noise was worse till a few Castrol oil changes and then it got a lot better when I started using motorcraft filters because they have a anti drain back valve that keeps the oil from returning to the pan when the car is not running. Good luck with your project and I hope this info helps :)
@sashajob04 Mine has the popping out of the throttle when I run it with the thermostat in the summer. I overhauled the cylinder heads valves and head gaskets thinking it was the issue. But all I got out of it was more power and knowing my engine like the back of my hand. I have not replaced my thermostat or radiator because I can get it to run cold with the thermostat out at colder temps outside. I also run the flat o tip motorcraft spark plugs and a new set of the green, I forgot brand coils. If you remove the thermostat and it's been in for a long time, I turn the bolts just a tiny bit tight to move the threads free forward and then remove them. Then use anti seize on the when installing them. The plugs, coils and thermostat test will help figure out if it's a constant thing, if it's cooling properly while driving and if it's temp related. I believe mine was acting the same way because my intake manifold leaks a little under pressure and it might have been getting air pockets that were causing a weird temp issue. I also don't want to change or buy a aftermarket intake manifold. So between all my stuff I just have my seasonal thermostats one normal one for cold temps the engine runs below the middle. And the open one for when it does the popping and weird stuff. I also use the k&w block weld with kevlar or whatever in the green bottle with the cap that has the two wings on it. It kept my really bad intake manifold and intake gaskets alive for me with the thermostat out for a couple years. The heat and pressure push the fluid out, so then it's going to leak from the intake gaskets and possibly head gaskets if they are leaking too. I also run only 91 premium gas in my car because it has more power and the engine does not get buildup as badly. If you run it with the thermostat open it will eventually get a check engine light if it's running too cold more often. But I myself prefer to have it colder over having the pops stumbles and weird things they do when they are not happy. I narrowed my thing down to engine temp, but I also have the other issues like I said. I also overhauled the top end of my engine only instead of lots of new parts because I wanted to see what mileage my engine could go without new chains, tensioners .etc. It's 500 for a new interceptor engine and I just want to see what I can get out of the original one before knocks .etc. If you are close to 200k miles on the original engine then you will at least know where to start and what you might expect later. If I were you I would do the motorcraft copper plugs with flat tips, and then the thermostat trick with the new sensor just to see if that helps. I also changed my bolts to Allen bolts from Ace so I could remove my coils with a Allen bit / wrench or a star socket. You put anti seize on those bolts too. But you have to be prepared to remove all the bolts with a open end 7mm wrench and the possibility of the certs in the manifold spinning with the bolts. I haven't tried the tight then loose procedure on coil bolts. But I have had to carefully pry, drill, heat, out the stuck coils with bolt and cert out so I can use a small zip tie through the hole to hold the new ones down. I also have use a zip tie end with a short wood screw through the hole to hold them too. You just have to use a long and short extension for the passenger rear plug and do not touch and disturb the heater core hose to the manifold on the passenger side or you will be dealing with that. You also can't change the hose clamps to the screw style on the manifold side or it will crack and break off. But with thermostat out and monitoring coolant level frequently you can figure out if it's loosing coolant too. When I put the sealer in my car when I got it. It eventually got to the point it would seep coolant when it was cold and then reseal again when it got hot. But it lasted me the 2 years I needed to get back on my feet. So I replaced the gaskets later. There is a lower gasket set by mahule your supposed to replace with the 3 bolts too and that's where you would find common issues with leaking manifolds. I experimented with gluing mine with e6000 and applying it like a gasket material between the 2 plastic surfaces. The only manifold I found besides doorman was some weird name. But the doorman one has poor reviews and the spectra one has the standard thread certs for the coils along with all the hardware for different years. I installed a spectra on another vehicle from eBay and it did work well for what it was. But I saved the original leaking manifold they replaced and put it on my car because I didn't want to buy a new one :) So, that's been my ordeal with Mike and it would be interesting to find out if you get a resolution with the above.
@@Omnipresence99 If you need insight on how to gut a thermostat I can make a video for you, just let me know. There is a o ring seal between the thermostat that I have gotten to work without the thermostat. But I like the thermostat without the core because I know it's sealed between that o ring. I am OCD about certain things, so the only thing besides cutting into the left and right side of the bottom v is twisting off the I sides and getting the stamped metal tabs on the top surface removed so they don't jingle and possibly jet through the cooling system if they broke off and got loose. You will know you did it right once you pull the top pieces that hold it in off and there is a hole on the left and right side where they used to be.
I replaced mine with the standard brand TX91 sensor. These engines have some issues with loosing coolant from the intake manifold, failed radiator fans & module unit on fan shroud, failed thermostat, or clogged radiator. You could be leaking coolant from the intake manifold and having a overheating issue that is difficult to see. Or something else that is failing and causing it to overheat. I keep a thermostat that has the core and spring assembly removed from the center for diagnosing if my car is cooling properly. I cut the left and right side from the bottom close to the O and then pull off the retaining tabs at the top of the left and right of the O. Then I run my car with the modified thermostat with no core to see if my engine retains a colder engine temperature while driving on the highway and in general. It also helps when I need to do a radiator flush by letting the coolant flow without restriction. Usually if a car is warmed up and the radiator is bad you can warm it up and feel where there are hot spots and cold spots behind the fan shroud or in front of the radiator. This car is difficult to check because of the electric fans and AC condenser. So that test would be done with a temperature reading gun or removing the bolts for the fan shroud, warming it up and then running the AC to turn the fans on for a cooling cycle. Then turning off the engine and testing behind the shroud with caution of not touching the electric fan. I also like to squeeze the top radiator hose to check and see if coolant is flowing because sometimes the leaks can cause it to not have coolant at the top hose and overheat without knowing. Running the engine with the modified thermostat will eventually get a code for coolant temp too low if it is cooling properly. The last thing could be the water pump is not working right. But the gates water pump is a good replacement. Another thing that can happen is if you use 50/50 coolant instead of concentrate, it could create a clear jelly in the cooling system and prevent water from flowing. Always use a concentrated coolant like prestone all makes and mix with 50% or less water. I also recommend using the motorcraft thermostat for the car when you do put a new one in because the diameter of the thermostat center. Might be the wrong size with a aftermarket one. If you run the car with the modified thermostat and that code goes away. Then it means the car was overheating and going into cylinder head overheat / protection mode. The car will stutter and run poorly if it overheats because the mode makes it run on less cylinders / fuel to prevent overheating. Then the code comes up and it says it overheated and went into that mode. I run a specific engine sealer in my car in order to prevent pin hole leaks from causing issues that require lots of attention. After you get a idea of what's going on, let me know if you find any of the above issues. I overhauled my head gaskets and cylinder heads on my car along with replaced and silicone sealed all my intake gaskets and the 2 gaskets that are separate under the thermostat side of the manifold cross over. There is a common leak under the metal thermostat housing on the manifold that can be fixed with the gaskets if it's not too broken in the plastic area. Or if it's too broken you can replace the manifold with OEM or aftermarket. I have been told to avoid the dorman manifold and have replaced them with a different brand, I believe was spectra on eBay. But the better manifolds have collets and threads for the 8 spark coils and run a better air flow. The manifolds are also year and model specific by numbers. But currently my 06 is running a 05 manifold. I am not sure what they make specifically for years .etc. But I have my own issue with the car and I believe ECU eventually running into that overheating mode as a error when I have my thermostat in with no codes or indication the engine is overheating. So, hopefully this info helps.
You can also check the temp sensor with a scanner like obd mx on a phone or laptop with the app called forscan. Your engine temp is going to be under the cooling pid's when you get into the gauges on the app, select pid's and look for or type coolant or temp in the search menu. You will also know if the temp sensor is the right one if you unplug the harness between the temp sensor and the engine harness side. Usually the car has a harness between the sensor and engine harness you can unplug instead of unplugging it at the sensor. My car has no reading at the dash gauge if I unplug that sensor. Good luck :)
I need your help trying to change that same sensor on my 2002 ford expedition I removed the alternator but it's something behind the alternator that's blocking me from getting any tool on it basically I don't have enough room to get to it
@@NightRider-16 No fan is factory set to run with AC on to create flow from front AC radiator thing in front of the radiator. It will turn off if you turn off the climate control. It has to run in order to work properly for AC or AC can become damaged.
@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf oh OK so you're saying it's normal for my fans to run constantly as long as AC is on? So basically I don't have a problem? Thank u for responding
Temp guage, cylinder overheat protection and switch for fan. Overheating can be caused by a bad thermostat or bad fan control module. You replace the whole fan and control module assembly when they go bad, so you have a new motor and module in the shroud. I also remove the core of the old thermostat if the car over heats and run it with just the hole to check if the radiator is clogged or just needs more flushing.
I also change this sensor because when the car overheats it will just suddenly peg with no warning when you overheat. The cylinder head protection will activate and the car will run like a misfire because it cuts off fuel to try to save the engine from being destroyed.
@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolftrue indeed. It’ll shut 4 injectors down at a time. Rotate them and use them as air pumps to keep the engine cool. If not, it will eventually shut down all injectors
I have a 2003 grand marquis, cooling fan is always running even when car is cold. Ac is off. No codes. Fan doesn’t run when engine shut off. Gauge seems to be working properly. Any ideas what the heck is going on?
Could be bad control module for the fan. You usually replace the assembly fan motor, housing and module. You also have the fan on for A/C and Defrost, So that requires climate control off. There is usually 3 wires to the module. The 2 big ones are power feed and small one I think blue is positive to turn on module. You poke that one with a test light connected to ground in key off, run with engine off then with engine on. If it has power it will light. Then you test again with connector unplugged at car input side to see if it is getting power with climate control off. It could be common fan module failed and stuck on or power from climate control being bad. If your getting power you can unplug the climate control and test again. You might also get a code with forscan on android or pc to obd 2 plug. i use obd link mx2 Bluetooth and forscan on my 2 lincolns. You can also change this sensor for preventative maintanence for under 20.00 my 05 town car had the fan issue and fan assembly was replaced new for 100 on ebay. My 06 vw passat the fan just locked on one day with the car off because the old fan killed the module. Let me know what issue it is if you figure it out. You also want to check chassis ground on frame and body of car. My car had no frame ground .etc.
Same here 06 crown victoria. The fans constantly run when AC is on. No cooling issues or CEL. If I turn AC off the fans stop. As soon as I crank car on cold start the fans will come on if AC is set to on. Any ideas?
Yes it went in and out with the spark plug socket as described in this video. The sensor fits in a dry hole on my car. Coolant residue was from intake manifold gasket leaking on it. I have put these sensors in say the rear hole instead of the front hole before during previous engine assemblies. Make sure your spark plug socket has 6 sides, fits your sensor nicely and the rubber in the center is removed. My spark plug socket is called crescent, you can probably use husky .etc and you should not have any issues.
@@wspears617 No problem. I know what you are talking about and in general I have learned a trick where if you get a tiny turn tight on a old bolt when you start on it to click it free from the threads and then loosen it. You can eliminate that issue most of the time. I also use wd 40 or pb blaster on nuts and threads along with a wire brush and that trick first if they are rusty to clean them up. Then loosen till the bolt gets tight, retighten the bolt and wire brush / spray again, loosen again to attempt to get farther and repeat by hand on the loosen process till it comes off. You might find better science for the procedure to each bolt but that's the basics of tightening the threads if they are winding out damaged or abnormal and you can torque them forward as described first.
Anybody know the proper volt reading from wiring harness to the temp sensor should be . Changing mine just wana check volts coming to it while i do . Being it hides under the intake and behind the alternator.
There is a connector that goes to the harness and the sensor is front driver side head according to google a little higher up. There might be a hole and nothing there if someone missed it but it's kinda hard to see. But that would be a connector with something unplugged and you would have no temp reading.
One video I saw guy made a tool. Nice to see a socket can fit in to remove it. I knew there was a way to change it without removing intake manifold. It is a very sneaky place the sensor was put in behind the alternator. I noticed it leaking when changing alternator.
Usually the sensors fit in deep sockets, but that one did not and so that was how I discovered the spark plug socket fit if you remove the rubber part that holds the spark plug.
@@jaybandz2026 I can't find the part number. But I rember I bought it at O'Reilly and I believe it was a standard brand product with a tx in the part number. I recommend motorcraft from the dealership but the standard brand fits.
@@jaybandz2026 Yea the standard tx one does not have the lines on it so it fits without having to deal with that. I bought a motorcraft one with a line on the opposite side of Amazon and returned it. I don't know if they make the whole harness to the sensor thing with different side lines or like if you could file the line off and so it fit the connector. But I bought the one from O'Reillys and it didn't have the line in the rectangle part.
If we could just go back to the 60s and 70s when cars were fun to work on.
This car and motor is one of the ones I trust to not break down.
Other cars are horrible at being dependable sometimes.
@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf
"The more complicated the plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the works."
@@beeenn649 I flush my 4.6 every summer and run it with no thermostat.
I have pulled 4 cars, several couches, and some heavier stuff with it.
Nobody understands that the 4.6 block and transmission is the same platform as the truck but it does not have the same heads and intake.
That's awesome. Thanks for the info and the socket size. Keep up the work.
Very good!
Thanks You very much!
I believe this sensor is bad on my 2001 grand marquis. It randomly spikes the temperature gauge to maxed out and starts to kinda sputter then it goes back to normal temp reading and car resumes normal power. It never overheats either. Is this similar to what caused you to replace this part?
Thanks for the video
I replaced mine because it looked old and my temp gauge was not rising when the engine temp got hot like it should.
I also ended up with a misfire at normal temp so I was skeptical if it was getting hotter than it should before the fans turned on.
2001 is a different model, last one I had for 01 town car the motor went bad at 190,000.
They have a cylinder overheat protection mode that will cut off fuel to protect the motor when overheated but I am not sure if 2001 has it, I know 05 and up does.
I suggest replacing it if the temp does not operate properly because it can damage your engine if it doesn't know when to turn the fans on.
I ended up removing my thermostat because my car has 289,000 miles and I plan to do the head gaskets soon to fix the higher temp misfire and my 170 to 190 psi compression issue I am having.
It will be head gaskets, inspect timing components, and clean head ports / valves along with lapping them and making sure they seat with new valve seals.
The pre 2005 engines from what I have seen were built with weak connecting rods. So any kind of over rev or slip of the transmission under load can basically cause a "money shift" over rev and stretch the rods and blow up the pistons.
Official police interceptor motors out of police cars are seasoned and have the internals to keep going, if they didn't they would be replaced with a motorcraft crate engine under dealer warranty.
I removed the core of my thermostat to keep my engine cold since the coolant temp and pressure was causing my issues.
It's basically snipping the left and right metal sides of the thermostat to get the spring and center out along with pulling off the 2 dangling top pieces that will remain once you cut the core retainer.
You have to make sure the pieces that held the center are all off of it so all you have left is the solid center to put in and use with the seal to seal the housing. It's basically just a O once you remove the core and side pieces they stamp the metal to hold it in place.
You also want to make sure your reserve tank is full because sometimes it can look full but it's not.
You just start the car cold and fill the coolant to the full line.
You can also get into changing the water pump if it is old along with changing the thermostat if it is old.
I recommend tightening the 2 bolts just a slight turn to get the threads to move then loosening them because they can be stuck on.
So this in all would be the temp sensor, water pump and thermostat.
The other reason I run my car and keep a core less thermostat portion in my glove box is to check and make sure my cooling system is not clogged and it stays at a low temp while driving on the highway and or with my air conditioning turned on and the fan operating for that portion and keeping it in the cold temps / Guage basically at the bottom like when you first start your car.
The core less thermostat I made by as described let's the coolant circulate full blast so if it were to not stay at low temp it would mean that the radiator was clogged and not cooling efficiently.
Head gasket issues can cause a temp climb along with a clogged radiator or bad water pump.
So it's all how you or your mechanic knows the car like the back of your hand.
We also get the bad intake gaskets or the coolant pass through underneath the intake having bad gaskets, leaking coolant and causing issues.
The piece that goes across the front of the intake under it with 6 bolts has a gasket that can leak out your coolant and make overheating / loss of coolant issues too.
You will see crust on the front / back of intake if it is leaking.
Maule has the little gaskets for that front intake piece with the 6 bolts under it.
I replaced this sensor because it was going from normal to peak hot when I was doing the head gasket misfire diagnosis as far as intentionally overheating the engine with the fan unplugged to see if the needle was rising or peeking from normal to immediately hot.
It is a problem with the 4.6 where the sensor goes bad and does not read the portion between normal and hot.
I suspect it might have had something to do with more thermal stress on my engine leading to head gasket issues.
Your the man! Life saver! 👍
I just did this on a 98 Grand Marquis. The socket size that fits the sensor is 3/4" 6pt deep well. Go to Harbor Freight and buy some "Socket Caps" ($5.00) and use one on the end of the socket. This makes access so much easier with a 9/16" open end wrench.
Hi what year is your car? Do you know if the location would be the same on a 1999 Mercury Grand Marquis?
Supposed to be two sensors, one is in the same area as this one attached to the cylinder head along with one in the top of the intake manifold.
There is usually a wire for this CHT sensor that follows it under the intake manifold with a 2 pin connector between the wiring harness before it goes down under the intake.
The CHT sensor here is the important one.
This car is a 2005 and my other as similar is 06.
Chassis changed from steering box in early models to rack and pinion. But the engine is about the same other than intake manifold designs and coil pack to coil on plug.
@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf thank you so much 🙏
Sir you are a video GOD😅😅😅 THANKS SOOO MUCH. Im glad i check a few videos. Another guy was saying remove the intake😳😳😲😲 i see there is no need...
Ty u sir.. finally the video I needed
I purchased two CHT sensors and on both, threads were to large. Wouldnt even make it a 1/4 inch in. My next spot is ford for original but I heard you say you used tx91 from oreilly? For a 2001 ford crown Victoria, it fit like OEM? That would be very time saving for me right now. And yes, is soon as I put the socket on the old, it broke the plastic 😂😂😂
I started to panic a little bit when the other two sensors didn’t fit 😂😂
Thanks for the video
@@Omnipresence99 Thank you :)
Yea the standard one worked. But I always recommend motorcraft.
I just couldn't find a motorcraft online that fit my harness.
But now after looking at stuff I think I might experiment with filing off the lines that keep the sensor from plugging into the harness and see how they work for research.
The 4.6 also has issues with radiator flow so I took out my thermostat for the summer and am almost ready to put it back in for winter.
But I am going to try to purchase a motorcraft thermostat for my car.
Because I have found the thermostat mouths on different brands are not around the same size as OEM on different vehicles.
I have lost trust in aftermarket parts, but I still use them for certain situations as long as I am comfortable with their performance or am able to test them and change them without major processes to install and remove them.
@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf I’m running into the same issue with finding a motor craft part that fits mine. It says it’s not an exact fit.
I’m going up there tomorrow with the old part to compare and I will do the same at oreilly. Already tried Napa and it was a no.
The symptoms I’m having are rough idle, bogging down when I open the throttle, and it was popping a few months ago. It’s choking pretty bad.
A few days ago white smoke came out the tail pipes. Pretty thick and strong toxic smell. Never happened before. So I just cut it if and referred back to the codes I pulled in April which was p01288 CHT sensor and p1137 sensor indicates lean.
So that’s where I’m at and starting with CHT Sensor then upstream 02 sensor since I already replaced idle air valve gasket and MAF sensor
@@Omnipresence99 I also broke my old one and super glued it temporarily when my motorcraft ones didn't fit the connector.
There will be a variance for 2001 with a sensor in the intake manifold and the one in the head.
So it's a little different with the sensor sizes on earlier models.
I don't know if they are the same, but they look the same for ford except for the little line they put in the rectangle.
The standard sensor has no lines on it, a that's why I was thinking of modifying one and testing it to see if it works properly.
My car has a weird little glitch with stumbling when hot.
But I noticed all the Ford's do quick climbs when they get hot on the dash indicator but the PID readings are normal increments if you read them with the obd.
Another thing that goes bad is the fan module.
But I got one for my other Lincoln on eBay with the whole shroud, fan and module for around 100.00
Wrecking yards have them on the interceptors in good condition too.
But it's very common to get debris and circulation flow issues in the radiator and engine.
So I always go towards clipping off the lower v of a old thermostat with wire cutters and twisting off the tabs of the loose upper pieces so you have a open thermostat to remedy any overheating issues and monitor if the cooling system is flowing, clogged or just needs some time to open back up.
My car has a small coolant leak from my intake manifold that I have repaired several times and I also run a special sealer to keep it from leaking in general.
So with how everything acts during the summer and winter I just change between the two to keep it happy.
But I also notice a point where the system does not have a good circulation design with the coolant tank .etc.
So I have that thermostat thing for a method specifically for the 4.6 when temps don't stay exact.
It also helps for flushing a old system when your filling, driving, testing and dropping the fluid to clear debris.
There is also the warm the engine to temp and feel the radiator procedure
But that is difficult because you have to remove the fan shroud to touch or work through it with a temp gun to see if there is blockage.
I don't get the overheat errors or signs on mine, but I do have times where it feels like the system goes into overheat protection and stumbles / misfires when hot.
I overhauled the head gaskets, valves .etc a year or 2 ago and everything was a lot better.
But everyone has the overheating thing for a few different reasons and that cht sensor is mainly a remedy for cooling fansnot working or the temp does not change / read.
I changed mine because it was old and ugly.
But the dash still moves in jumps instead of normal movements because that's just how they are designed to work.
Also know that 96 to 2005 era engines "I think or guess" were built with not as strong internals.
So around 199,000 miles rods and pistons can fall apart, stretch or fail.
I killed several of them in my lifetime, also had transmission slips under full throttle .etc from bad solenoids kill them too.
So just be aware that if you ever have to replace your motor.
The police interceptor motors and 2005 and up also have a longer life expectancy.
I use Castrol engine oil and motorcraft oil filters on mine and it has 300,000 miles.
But when I got it the engine noise was worse till a few Castrol oil changes and then it got a lot better when I started using motorcraft filters because they have a anti drain back valve that keeps the oil from returning to the pan when the car is not running.
Good luck with your project and I hope this info helps :)
@sashajob04 Mine has the popping out of the throttle when I run it with the thermostat in the summer.
I overhauled the cylinder heads valves and head gaskets thinking it was the issue.
But all I got out of it was more power and knowing my engine like the back of my hand.
I have not replaced my thermostat or radiator because I can get it to run cold with the thermostat out at colder temps outside.
I also run the flat o tip motorcraft spark plugs and a new set of the green, I forgot brand coils.
If you remove the thermostat and it's been in for a long time, I turn the bolts just a tiny bit tight to move the threads free forward and then remove them.
Then use anti seize on the when installing them.
The plugs, coils and thermostat test will help figure out if it's a constant thing, if it's cooling properly while driving and if it's temp related.
I believe mine was acting the same way because my intake manifold leaks a little under pressure and it might have been getting air pockets that were causing a weird temp issue.
I also don't want to change or buy a aftermarket intake manifold.
So between all my stuff I just have my seasonal thermostats one normal one for cold temps the engine runs below the middle.
And the open one for when it does the popping and weird stuff.
I also use the k&w block weld with kevlar or whatever in the green bottle with the cap that has the two wings on it.
It kept my really bad intake manifold and intake gaskets alive for me with the thermostat out for a couple years.
The heat and pressure push the fluid out, so then it's going to leak from the intake gaskets and possibly head gaskets if they are leaking too.
I also run only 91 premium gas in my car because it has more power and the engine does not get buildup as badly.
If you run it with the thermostat open it will eventually get a check engine light if it's running too cold more often.
But I myself prefer to have it colder over having the pops stumbles and weird things they do when they are not happy.
I narrowed my thing down to engine temp, but I also have the other issues like I said.
I also overhauled the top end of my engine only instead of lots of new parts because I wanted to see what mileage my engine could go without new chains, tensioners .etc.
It's 500 for a new interceptor engine and I just want to see what I can get out of the original one before knocks .etc.
If you are close to 200k miles on the original engine then you will at least know where to start and what you might expect later.
If I were you I would do the motorcraft copper plugs with flat tips, and then the thermostat trick with the new sensor just to see if that helps.
I also changed my bolts to Allen bolts from Ace so I could remove my coils with a Allen bit / wrench or a star socket.
You put anti seize on those bolts too.
But you have to be prepared to remove all the bolts with a open end 7mm wrench and the possibility of the certs in the manifold spinning with the bolts.
I haven't tried the tight then loose procedure on coil bolts.
But I have had to carefully pry, drill, heat, out the stuck coils with bolt and cert out so I can use a small zip tie through the hole to hold the new ones down.
I also have use a zip tie end with a short wood screw through the hole to hold them too.
You just have to use a long and short extension for the passenger rear plug and do not touch and disturb the heater core hose to the manifold on the passenger side or you will be dealing with that.
You also can't change the hose clamps to the screw style on the manifold side or it will crack and break off.
But with thermostat out and monitoring coolant level frequently you can figure out if it's loosing coolant too.
When I put the sealer in my car when I got it.
It eventually got to the point it would seep coolant when it was cold and then reseal again when it got hot.
But it lasted me the 2 years I needed to get back on my feet.
So I replaced the gaskets later.
There is a lower gasket set by mahule your supposed to replace with the 3 bolts too and that's where you would find common issues with leaking manifolds.
I experimented with gluing mine with e6000 and applying it like a gasket material between the 2 plastic surfaces.
The only manifold I found besides doorman was some weird name. But the doorman one has poor reviews and the spectra one has the standard thread certs for the coils along with all the hardware for different years.
I installed a spectra on another vehicle from eBay and it did work well for what it was.
But I saved the original leaking manifold they replaced and put it on my car because I didn't want to buy a new one :)
So, that's been my ordeal with Mike and it would be interesting to find out if you get a resolution with the above.
@@Omnipresence99 If you need insight on how to gut a thermostat I can make a video for you, just let me know.
There is a o ring seal between the thermostat that I have gotten to work without the thermostat.
But I like the thermostat without the core because I know it's sealed between that o ring.
I am OCD about certain things, so the only thing besides cutting into the left and right side of the bottom v is twisting off the I sides and getting the stamped metal tabs on the top surface removed so they don't jingle and possibly jet through the cooling system if they broke off and got loose.
You will know you did it right once you pull the top pieces that hold it in off and there is a hole on the left and right side where they used to be.
Exelente información gracias
Is this the same location on the 2008 Ford Econoline E250 V8 4.6?
It should be but I'm not sure. There is a wiring harness that runs to it and disconnects by the valve cover.
I used the same method but I used a 22mm open end rench
I’ve already replaced this but the problem hasn’t went away and my car still has the p1299 engine light. Could it be the wiring ?
I replaced mine with the standard brand TX91 sensor.
These engines have some issues with loosing coolant from the intake manifold, failed radiator fans & module unit on fan shroud, failed thermostat, or clogged radiator.
You could be leaking coolant from the intake manifold and having a overheating issue that is difficult to see.
Or something else that is failing and causing it to overheat.
I keep a thermostat that has the core and spring assembly removed from the center for diagnosing if my car is cooling properly.
I cut the left and right side from the bottom close to the O and then pull off the retaining tabs at the top of the left and right of the O.
Then I run my car with the modified thermostat with no core to see if my engine retains a colder engine temperature while driving on the highway and in general.
It also helps when I need to do a radiator flush by letting the coolant flow without restriction.
Usually if a car is warmed up and the radiator is bad you can warm it up and feel where there are hot spots and cold spots behind the fan shroud or in front of the radiator.
This car is difficult to check because of the electric fans and AC condenser.
So that test would be done with a temperature reading gun or removing the bolts for the fan shroud, warming it up and then running the AC to turn the fans on for a cooling cycle.
Then turning off the engine and testing behind the shroud with caution of not touching the electric fan.
I also like to squeeze the top radiator hose to check and see if coolant is flowing because sometimes the leaks can cause it to not have coolant at the top hose and overheat without knowing.
Running the engine with the modified thermostat will eventually get a code for coolant temp too low if it is cooling properly.
The last thing could be the water pump is not working right.
But the gates water pump is a good replacement.
Another thing that can happen is if you use 50/50 coolant instead of concentrate, it could create a clear jelly in the cooling system and prevent water from flowing.
Always use a concentrated coolant like prestone all makes and mix with 50% or less water.
I also recommend using the motorcraft thermostat for the car when you do put a new one in because the diameter of the thermostat center. Might be the wrong size with a aftermarket one.
If you run the car with the modified thermostat and that code goes away.
Then it means the car was overheating and going into cylinder head overheat / protection mode.
The car will stutter and run poorly if it overheats because the mode makes it run on less cylinders / fuel to prevent overheating.
Then the code comes up and it says it overheated and went into that mode.
I run a specific engine sealer in my car in order to prevent pin hole leaks from causing issues that require lots of attention.
After you get a idea of what's going on, let me know if you find any of the above issues.
I overhauled my head gaskets and cylinder heads on my car along with replaced and silicone sealed all my intake gaskets and the 2 gaskets that are separate under the thermostat side of the manifold cross over.
There is a common leak under the metal thermostat housing on the manifold that can be fixed with the gaskets if it's not too broken in the plastic area.
Or if it's too broken you can replace the manifold with OEM or aftermarket.
I have been told to avoid the dorman manifold and have replaced them with a different brand, I believe was spectra on eBay.
But the better manifolds have collets and threads for the 8 spark coils and run a better air flow.
The manifolds are also year and model specific by numbers.
But currently my 06 is running a 05 manifold.
I am not sure what they make specifically for years .etc.
But I have my own issue with the car and I believe ECU eventually running into that overheating mode as a error when I have my thermostat in with no codes or indication the engine is overheating.
So, hopefully this info helps.
You can also check the temp sensor with a scanner like obd mx on a phone or laptop with the app called forscan.
Your engine temp is going to be under the cooling pid's when you get into the gauges on the app, select pid's and look for or type coolant or temp in the search menu.
You will also know if the temp sensor is the right one if you unplug the harness between the temp sensor and the engine harness side.
Usually the car has a harness between the sensor and engine harness you can unplug instead of unplugging it at the sensor.
My car has no reading at the dash gauge if I unplug that sensor.
Good luck :)
@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf turned out to be my water pump was going out. Changed that now my car is running very much better. Next will be radiator
Thank u for video it's helpful and im going to replace mine
I need your help trying to change that same sensor on my 2002 ford expedition I removed the alternator but it's something behind the alternator that's blocking me from getting any tool on it basically I don't have enough room to get to it
There might be a foam insulator in the way if you don't see the galley in the middle.
Is it a black thing that's spongy?
Could this cause my fans to constantly run when AC is on? I don't have a CEL on or anything but fans constantly run only when AC is on. Thanks!
@@NightRider-16 No fan is factory set to run with AC on to create flow from front AC radiator thing in front of the radiator.
It will turn off if you turn off the climate control.
It has to run in order to work properly for AC or AC can become damaged.
@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf oh OK so you're saying it's normal for my fans to run constantly as long as AC is on? So basically I don't have a problem? Thank u for responding
@@NightRider-16 Yes with AC on and engine running it is normal.
Thanks so much definitely left a like a sub
That sensor also gives info to the dash?
Temp guage, cylinder overheat protection and switch for fan.
Overheating can be caused by a bad thermostat or bad fan control module.
You replace the whole fan and control module assembly when they go bad, so you have a new motor and module in the shroud.
I also remove the core of the old thermostat if the car over heats and run it with just the hole to check if the radiator is clogged or just needs more flushing.
I also change this sensor because when the car overheats it will just suddenly peg with no warning when you overheat.
The cylinder head protection will activate and the car will run like a misfire because it cuts off fuel to try to save the engine from being destroyed.
@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolftrue indeed. It’ll shut 4 injectors down at a time. Rotate them and use them as air pumps to keep the engine cool. If not, it will eventually shut down all injectors
I have a 2003 grand marquis, cooling fan is always running even when car is cold. Ac is off. No codes. Fan doesn’t run when engine shut off. Gauge seems to be working properly. Any ideas what the heck is going on?
Could be bad control module for the fan. You usually replace the assembly fan motor, housing and module. You also have the fan on for A/C and Defrost, So that requires climate control off. There is usually 3 wires to the module. The 2 big ones are power feed and small one I think blue is positive to turn on module.
You poke that one with a test light connected to ground in key off, run with engine off then with engine on. If it has power it will light.
Then you test again with connector unplugged at car input side to see if it is getting power with climate control off.
It could be common fan module failed and stuck on or power from climate control being bad.
If your getting power you can unplug the climate control and test again.
You might also get a code with forscan on android or pc to obd 2 plug.
i use obd link mx2 Bluetooth and forscan on my 2 lincolns.
You can also change this sensor for preventative maintanence for under 20.00
my 05 town car had the fan issue and fan assembly was replaced new for 100 on ebay.
My 06 vw passat the fan just locked on one day with the car off because the old fan killed the module.
Let me know what issue it is if you figure it out.
You also want to check chassis ground on frame and body of car.
My car had no frame ground .etc.
Same here 06 crown victoria. The fans constantly run when AC is on. No cooling issues or CEL. If I turn AC off the fans stop. As soon as I crank car on cold start the fans will come on if AC is set to on. Any ideas?
@@NightRider-16this is normal if it only occurs with a/c on.
Mine does the half temp then shoots up and I replaced the sensor but it didn’t fix the faulty high gauge read
Did you use the standard brand sensor?
Were you able to get the CHT sensor flush and back in correct placement.
Yes it went in and out with the spark plug socket as described in this video.
The sensor fits in a dry hole on my car.
Coolant residue was from intake manifold gasket leaking on it.
I have put these sensors in say the rear hole instead of the front hole before during previous engine assemblies.
Make sure your spark plug socket has 6 sides, fits your sensor nicely and the rubber in the center is removed.
My spark plug socket is called crescent, you can probably use husky .etc and you should not have any issues.
@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf Thank you
@@wspears617 No problem. I know what you are talking about and in general I have learned a trick where if you get a tiny turn tight on a old bolt when you start on it to click it free from the threads and then loosen it. You can eliminate that issue most of the time.
I also use wd 40 or pb blaster on nuts and threads along with a wire brush and that trick first if they are rusty to clean them up. Then loosen till the bolt gets tight, retighten the bolt and wire brush / spray again, loosen again to attempt to get farther and repeat by hand on the loosen process till it comes off.
You might find better science for the procedure to each bolt but that's the basics of tightening the threads if they are winding out damaged or abnormal and you can torque them forward as described first.
Saved my but thanks
Thank you
Anybody know the proper volt reading from wiring harness to the temp sensor should be . Changing mine just wana check volts coming to it while i do . Being it hides under the intake and behind the alternator.
I got a 98 f150 and the sensor is not there or in the hole
There is a connector that goes to the harness and the sensor is front driver side head according to google a little higher up.
There might be a hole and nothing there if someone missed it but it's kinda hard to see.
But that would be a connector with something unplugged and you would have no temp reading.
One video I saw guy made a tool. Nice to see a socket can fit in to remove it. I knew there was a way to change it without removing intake manifold. It is a very sneaky place the sensor was put in behind the alternator. I noticed it leaking when changing alternator.
Usually the sensors fit in deep sockets, but that one did not and so that was how I discovered the spark plug socket fit if you remove the rubber part that holds the spark plug.
Part number ?
@@jaybandz2026 I can't find the part number.
But I rember I bought it at O'Reilly and I believe it was a standard brand product with a tx in the part number.
I recommend motorcraft from the dealership but the standard brand fits.
@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf okay bro because I bought one and it’s almost the same but one of the insert lines is on the opposite side.
@@jaybandz2026 Yea the standard tx one does not have the lines on it so it fits without having to deal with that.
I bought a motorcraft one with a line on the opposite side of Amazon and returned it.
I don't know if they make the whole harness to the sensor thing with different side lines or like if you could file the line off and so it fit the connector.
But I bought the one from O'Reillys and it didn't have the line in the rectangle part.
@@jaybandz2026 part number is TX91 found the receipt for it when I was cleaning my car today :)
Hope this helps.
It sounds like you were mumbling when you made this video! And you didn't do a very good job with the camera either!
But now you know how to remove the sensor thanks to a man with a learning disability.
I appreciate you Stealthy.