Відео

@@misfit422 No, I am covering the speaker to eliminate the loud noise. You do not ever block the vent or it will fail. The whole point of this video is a method to get the test done faster.

@@Stamnessj If the mechanism does not work from the inside then the door panel might need to be removed to further diagnose the issue. Sometimes the latch can break or you get a problem in something that can't be figured out with the door panel on. I diagnosed this issue here by pulling the door handle on the outside off and noticing the moving pieces were not returning. Your could be latch, handle or linkage.

@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf Sigh, thanks for a good, albeit discouraging answer😂👍

@@crashcamcentralvideos Yes you can :)

​@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf I appreciate that. Do you remember where this was located?

@@crashcamcentralvideos gig harbor Washington

@@Omnipresence99 Thank you :) Yea the standard one worked. But I always recommend motorcraft. I just couldn't find a motorcraft online that fit my harness. But now after looking at stuff I think I might experiment with filing off the lines that keep the sensor from plugging into the harness and see how they work for research. The 4.6 also has issues with radiator flow so I took out my thermostat for the summer and am almost ready to put it back in for winter. But I am going to try to purchase a motorcraft thermostat for my car. Because I have found the thermostat mouths on different brands are not around the same size as OEM on different vehicles. I have lost trust in aftermarket parts, but I still use them for certain situations as long as I am comfortable with their performance or am able to test them and change them without major processes to install and remove them.

@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf I’m running into the same issue with finding a motor craft part that fits mine. It says it’s not an exact fit. I’m going up there tomorrow with the old part to compare and I will do the same at oreilly. Already tried Napa and it was a no. The symptoms I’m having are rough idle, bogging down when I open the throttle, and it was popping a few months ago. It’s choking pretty bad. A few days ago white smoke came out the tail pipes. Pretty thick and strong toxic smell. Never happened before. So I just cut it if and referred back to the codes I pulled in April which was p01288 CHT sensor and p1137 sensor indicates lean. So that’s where I’m at and starting with CHT Sensor then upstream 02 sensor since I already replaced idle air valve gasket and MAF sensor

@@Omnipresence99 I also broke my old one and super glued it temporarily when my motorcraft ones didn't fit the connector. There will be a variance for 2001 with a sensor in the intake manifold and the one in the head. So it's a little different with the sensor sizes on earlier models. I don't know if they are the same, but they look the same for ford except for the little line they put in the rectangle. The standard sensor has no lines on it, a that's why I was thinking of modifying one and testing it to see if it works properly. My car has a weird little glitch with stumbling when hot. But I noticed all the Ford's do quick climbs when they get hot on the dash indicator but the PID readings are normal increments if you read them with the obd. Another thing that goes bad is the fan module. But I got one for my other Lincoln on eBay with the whole shroud, fan and module for around 100.00 Wrecking yards have them on the interceptors in good condition too. But it's very common to get debris and circulation flow issues in the radiator and engine. So I always go towards clipping off the lower v of a old thermostat with wire cutters and twisting off the tabs of the loose upper pieces so you have a open thermostat to remedy any overheating issues and monitor if the cooling system is flowing, clogged or just needs some time to open back up. My car has a small coolant leak from my intake manifold that I have repaired several times and I also run a special sealer to keep it from leaking in general. So with how everything acts during the summer and winter I just change between the two to keep it happy. But I also notice a point where the system does not have a good circulation design with the coolant tank .etc. So I have that thermostat thing for a method specifically for the 4.6 when temps don't stay exact. It also helps for flushing a old system when your filling, driving, testing and dropping the fluid to clear debris. There is also the warm the engine to temp and feel the radiator procedure But that is difficult because you have to remove the fan shroud to touch or work through it with a temp gun to see if there is blockage. I don't get the overheat errors or signs on mine, but I do have times where it feels like the system goes into overheat protection and stumbles / misfires when hot. I overhauled the head gaskets, valves .etc a year or 2 ago and everything was a lot better. But everyone has the overheating thing for a few different reasons and that cht sensor is mainly a remedy for cooling fansnot working or the temp does not change / read. I changed mine because it was old and ugly. But the dash still moves in jumps instead of normal movements because that's just how they are designed to work. Also know that 96 to 2005 era engines "I think or guess" were built with not as strong internals. So around 199,000 miles rods and pistons can fall apart, stretch or fail. I killed several of them in my lifetime, also had transmission slips under full throttle .etc from bad solenoids kill them too. So just be aware that if you ever have to replace your motor. The police interceptor motors and 2005 and up also have a longer life expectancy. I use Castrol engine oil and motorcraft oil filters on mine and it has 300,000 miles. But when I got it the engine noise was worse till a few Castrol oil changes and then it got a lot better when I started using motorcraft filters because they have a anti drain back valve that keeps the oil from returning to the pan when the car is not running. Good luck with your project and I hope this info helps :)

@sashajob04 Mine has the popping out of the throttle when I run it with the thermostat in the summer. I overhauled the cylinder heads valves and head gaskets thinking it was the issue. But all I got out of it was more power and knowing my engine like the back of my hand. I have not replaced my thermostat or radiator because I can get it to run cold with the thermostat out at colder temps outside. I also run the flat o tip motorcraft spark plugs and a new set of the green, I forgot brand coils. If you remove the thermostat and it's been in for a long time, I turn the bolts just a tiny bit tight to move the threads free forward and then remove them. Then use anti seize on the when installing them. The plugs, coils and thermostat test will help figure out if it's a constant thing, if it's cooling properly while driving and if it's temp related. I believe mine was acting the same way because my intake manifold leaks a little under pressure and it might have been getting air pockets that were causing a weird temp issue. I also don't want to change or buy a aftermarket intake manifold. So between all my stuff I just have my seasonal thermostats one normal one for cold temps the engine runs below the middle. And the open one for when it does the popping and weird stuff. I also use the k&w block weld with kevlar or whatever in the green bottle with the cap that has the two wings on it. It kept my really bad intake manifold and intake gaskets alive for me with the thermostat out for a couple years. The heat and pressure push the fluid out, so then it's going to leak from the intake gaskets and possibly head gaskets if they are leaking too. I also run only 91 premium gas in my car because it has more power and the engine does not get buildup as badly. If you run it with the thermostat open it will eventually get a check engine light if it's running too cold more often. But I myself prefer to have it colder over having the pops stumbles and weird things they do when they are not happy. I narrowed my thing down to engine temp, but I also have the other issues like I said. I also overhauled the top end of my engine only instead of lots of new parts because I wanted to see what mileage my engine could go without new chains, tensioners .etc. It's 500 for a new interceptor engine and I just want to see what I can get out of the original one before knocks .etc. If you are close to 200k miles on the original engine then you will at least know where to start and what you might expect later. If I were you I would do the motorcraft copper plugs with flat tips, and then the thermostat trick with the new sensor just to see if that helps. I also changed my bolts to Allen bolts from Ace so I could remove my coils with a Allen bit / wrench or a star socket. You put anti seize on those bolts too. But you have to be prepared to remove all the bolts with a open end 7mm wrench and the possibility of the certs in the manifold spinning with the bolts. I haven't tried the tight then loose procedure on coil bolts. But I have had to carefully pry, drill, heat, out the stuck coils with bolt and cert out so I can use a small zip tie through the hole to hold the new ones down. I also have use a zip tie end with a short wood screw through the hole to hold them too. You just have to use a long and short extension for the passenger rear plug and do not touch and disturb the heater core hose to the manifold on the passenger side or you will be dealing with that. You also can't change the hose clamps to the screw style on the manifold side or it will crack and break off. But with thermostat out and monitoring coolant level frequently you can figure out if it's loosing coolant too. When I put the sealer in my car when I got it. It eventually got to the point it would seep coolant when it was cold and then reseal again when it got hot. But it lasted me the 2 years I needed to get back on my feet. So I replaced the gaskets later. There is a lower gasket set by mahule your supposed to replace with the 3 bolts too and that's where you would find common issues with leaking manifolds. I experimented with gluing mine with e6000 and applying it like a gasket material between the 2 plastic surfaces. The only manifold I found besides doorman was some weird name. But the doorman one has poor reviews and the spectra one has the standard thread certs for the coils along with all the hardware for different years. I installed a spectra on another vehicle from eBay and it did work well for what it was. But I saved the original leaking manifold they replaced and put it on my car because I didn't want to buy a new one :) So, that's been my ordeal with Mike and it would be interesting to find out if you get a resolution with the above.

@@Omnipresence99 If you need insight on how to gut a thermostat I can make a video for you, just let me know. There is a o ring seal between the thermostat that I have gotten to work without the thermostat. But I like the thermostat without the core because I know it's sealed between that o ring. I am OCD about certain things, so the only thing besides cutting into the left and right side of the bottom v is twisting off the I sides and getting the stamped metal tabs on the top surface removed so they don't jingle and possibly jet through the cooling system if they broke off and got loose. You will know you did it right once you pull the top pieces that hold it in off and there is a hole on the left and right side where they used to be.

@@skiman5289I put a new agm battery from O'Reilly in my car and upgraded my alternator. I had no problems with it. Only reason I went with lifesaver was because friends of mine had different ones and lifesaver was the one I noticed to be more reliable. Sometimes you can get a bad device and have to have it changed out. But once I got everything figured out it worked great for me. Main ones were the blow and hum, no cold drinks while driving, and no applying cologne, glass cleaner, areosol, hand sanitizer.etc with the windows up. Also don't burp a rockstar energy drink into it. It would give me little warnings that were not enough to give me a violation or whatever. But I never got any warnings I had to pay for either. I did everything clean and sober so it is very simple if your not running around drinking and trying to get it out of your system.

@@dakidd3412 I had to solder them perfectly and use flux to get the solder to adhere

@@dakidd3412 I have to flux, pull solder and then flux and resolder mine after a year or something long. I have had the same one I prefer for 6 years because the battery life works well with my rechargeable AAA batteries. I use a solder wick to clean and then chip quick in the syringe for flux. I also had to melt some plastic areas lightly with a iron in my latest rework to get it to fit and hold. But I figured since they all do it that there was a way to fix it. When they go out on the contacts they act like a dead or low battery. If I drop or throw mine a little tough it has gotten loose. But once you get the idea of it it will stay working for a long time.

@@SnoopEastwood I use a crescent tool set that goes up to 21mm and then there is the big bolt / nuts under the hood next to the wheel / control arm that are deep socket and I believe that was 1 1/4 deep socket. I will have to go through my socket set and see. But if you need that one in general to lower the cross member it's those 2 big bolts that look like they hold the control arms on each side. Just rember the engine has to be supported by a engine puller or something to hold it up while you drop the cross member. I used 2 or 3 jacks and jack stands to hold up the cross member but it comes out. Just be sure your doing it properly and safely. You also have to disconnect the steering rack from the steering shaft. That requires point the wheels straight and then locking the steering wheel in the center position with something like the seat belt so it does not loose its position on the clock spring under the airbag. There is a procedure to re calibrate it to center if you loose the turn.

The Honda was speeding and that's why I didn't hit either of them. I have avoided many near wreck situations like this by slowing down while people are turning in front of my car until they complete the turn. The truck felt the need to quickly get out of the Honda's way that had the right of way to avoid a accident. Old guy driving the Honda was not smart to be driving so fast in the weather conditions. The right of way is not greater than the risk factors of not being a defensive driver. Truck had no insurance because the guy just bought it.

@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf both drivers were not smart. The truck should have not been on the road without insurance to begin with. second they still failed to yield to oncoming traffic. The honda wasn't smart as they weren't wearing a seatbelt but they still had right of way.

@@peachespie1249 I agree :)

I replaced mine with the standard brand TX91 sensor. These engines have some issues with loosing coolant from the intake manifold, failed radiator fans & module unit on fan shroud, failed thermostat, or clogged radiator. You could be leaking coolant from the intake manifold and having a overheating issue that is difficult to see. Or something else that is failing and causing it to overheat. I keep a thermostat that has the core and spring assembly removed from the center for diagnosing if my car is cooling properly. I cut the left and right side from the bottom close to the O and then pull off the retaining tabs at the top of the left and right of the O. Then I run my car with the modified thermostat with no core to see if my engine retains a colder engine temperature while driving on the highway and in general. It also helps when I need to do a radiator flush by letting the coolant flow without restriction. Usually if a car is warmed up and the radiator is bad you can warm it up and feel where there are hot spots and cold spots behind the fan shroud or in front of the radiator. This car is difficult to check because of the electric fans and AC condenser. So that test would be done with a temperature reading gun or removing the bolts for the fan shroud, warming it up and then running the AC to turn the fans on for a cooling cycle. Then turning off the engine and testing behind the shroud with caution of not touching the electric fan. I also like to squeeze the top radiator hose to check and see if coolant is flowing because sometimes the leaks can cause it to not have coolant at the top hose and overheat without knowing. Running the engine with the modified thermostat will eventually get a code for coolant temp too low if it is cooling properly. The last thing could be the water pump is not working right. But the gates water pump is a good replacement. Another thing that can happen is if you use 50/50 coolant instead of concentrate, it could create a clear jelly in the cooling system and prevent water from flowing. Always use a concentrated coolant like prestone all makes and mix with 50% or less water. I also recommend using the motorcraft thermostat for the car when you do put a new one in because the diameter of the thermostat center. Might be the wrong size with a aftermarket one. If you run the car with the modified thermostat and that code goes away. Then it means the car was overheating and going into cylinder head overheat / protection mode. The car will stutter and run poorly if it overheats because the mode makes it run on less cylinders / fuel to prevent overheating. Then the code comes up and it says it overheated and went into that mode. I run a specific engine sealer in my car in order to prevent pin hole leaks from causing issues that require lots of attention. After you get a idea of what's going on, let me know if you find any of the above issues. I overhauled my head gaskets and cylinder heads on my car along with replaced and silicone sealed all my intake gaskets and the 2 gaskets that are separate under the thermostat side of the manifold cross over. There is a common leak under the metal thermostat housing on the manifold that can be fixed with the gaskets if it's not too broken in the plastic area. Or if it's too broken you can replace the manifold with OEM or aftermarket. I have been told to avoid the dorman manifold and have replaced them with a different brand, I believe was spectra on eBay. But the better manifolds have collets and threads for the 8 spark coils and run a better air flow. The manifolds are also year and model specific by numbers. But currently my 06 is running a 05 manifold. I am not sure what they make specifically for years .etc. But I have my own issue with the car and I believe ECU eventually running into that overheating mode as a error when I have my thermostat in with no codes or indication the engine is overheating. So, hopefully this info helps.

You can also check the temp sensor with a scanner like obd mx on a phone or laptop with the app called forscan. Your engine temp is going to be under the cooling pid's when you get into the gauges on the app, select pid's and look for or type coolant or temp in the search menu. You will also know if the temp sensor is the right one if you unplug the harness between the temp sensor and the engine harness side. Usually the car has a harness between the sensor and engine harness you can unplug instead of unplugging it at the sensor. My car has no reading at the dash gauge if I unplug that sensor. Good luck :)

@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf turned out to be my water pump was going out. Changed that now my car is running very much better. Next will be radiator

@@jamesmcdaniel38340 I recommend doing this project cracked out on energy drinks. A continuity test with a volt meter will help identify the broken circuits. It's that thing on the volt meter where you turn it to beep mode when it makes contact between the 2 terminals. But it's probably the same thing broken on all of them. Let me know how your project goes and if this helps you :)

@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf it did help it had the same exact bad trace. I drilled hole thru the via and used a small wire insulated ran thru hole and to back leg of varistor and then to ground on plug. Worked like a charm! Thx! James

@@jamesmcdaniel38340 That's awesome :) good to know it's at the same area for future reference. Mine was loosing AC and all kinds of other weird stuff. But I took it apart, was flexing the board around while plugged in and found that joint when it sparked and got hot in that area. I see the same thing on the crown Victoria but the dash is a little different and was questioning if that was the same in that design too. I believe it's made by VDO, the same company that made the 96 VW clusters that would go out in a similar way too. But I would rather deal with the dash .etc than the earlier versions with the engines that do not make it over 300k

@@chrisjennings493 I think spraying the latches with wd 40 helps. I believe it's the mechanism grease that sticks. But you can tell when the outer door handle has slack on the pull of it, if it has worked free or if you have to repeat for a while. I sprayed my latches really well inside with the straw for the can and they kept working.

@@OBS.Rey__ If you know how to operate the magnet like I did, yes I did. You go through the push rod holes, and drag them to the distributor hole.

But can you even install them

@@OBS.Rey__ Yes I did install them after removing them. I use this method to check for worn / wiped out lifters / cam lobes. On Chevy 454 they also have a hole you can pull them through. Not exactly the perfect way to do it since there can be debris .etc on the galley way if it's not clean. But I did this because I had a few abnormal ones that were jetting oil out the lifters / pushrods instead of flowing oil. I also inspect them for abnormal wear using this method. But when they are worn down it takes some tugs and work to get them to taper off the abnormal side of the bottom. I also check / determine if the lifters are wiped out when they don't slide up and out easily.

Or you ruined the easy start spring

@@bbx-gaming3162 Junk, Amazon returned product.

@@jaybandz2026 I can't find the part number. But I rember I bought it at O'Reilly and I believe it was a standard brand product with a tx in the part number. I recommend motorcraft from the dealership but the standard brand fits.

@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf okay bro because I bought one and it’s almost the same but one of the insert lines is on the opposite side.

@@jaybandz2026 Yea the standard tx one does not have the lines on it so it fits without having to deal with that. I bought a motorcraft one with a line on the opposite side of Amazon and returned it. I don't know if they make the whole harness to the sensor thing with different side lines or like if you could file the line off and so it fit the connector. But I bought the one from O'Reillys and it didn't have the line in the rectangle part.

@@jaybandz2026 part number is TX91 found the receipt for it when I was cleaning my car today :) Hope this helps.

@@NightRider-16 No fan is factory set to run with AC on to create flow from front AC radiator thing in front of the radiator. It will turn off if you turn off the climate control. It has to run in order to work properly for AC or AC can become damaged.

@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf oh OK so you're saying it's normal for my fans to run constantly as long as AC is on? So basically I don't have a problem? Thank u for responding

@@NightRider-16 Yes with AC on and engine running it is normal.

Thanks so much definitely left a like a sub

Sometimes they go faulty and you have to get a replacement device because someone got too much moisture in it. I changed the tips frequently to avoid moisture and I don't know what style device you have if it's like this. But you can try humming and blowing hard into it with your cheeks puffed out to maintain a solid air flow and back pressure. Once you get it straightened out with the device you will be used to it and get through it. Lifesafer was the best one with friends experiences I knew with others. So don't give up and rember it's just a temporary thing :)

@@Ayvazov1986 Don't forget to spray the latches with wd40 or whatever will lubricate the latches and it should clear up.

@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf for sure! 🙂

I did it all for the extension cord...

It works well, but I had no clue what I was doing other than mimicing the setup off my other RV Coleman's I had these off of. They made it start fast and well though with less drag. I would like to get the brand new hard start black one at bottom along with top black one. Mine runs off a Honeywell thermostat and control box so I think that's where my white wire and connected wire were supposed to go in general. I avoid touching anything metal at cap connectors in fear of shock along with installing unplugged. But I was definitely risking the 50% chance of failure with the not knowing what I was doing :)

They keep on knocking but they can not come in.

No

It's a "Disconnected" RV toilet. The interior is water damaged and contaminated with nicotine. So 5th wheel is getting torn apart, disinfected and possibly rebuilt.

Ah so is it like a potential ''fixer-upper'' previous tenants left it in a state kinda deal? I think many of us were under the assumption you're just sorta... living like this. 😅