Your most welcome sir and that was my first time actually changing that thing, lol. I thought I was gonna have to pull the intake too. A little effort with a wrench and saved myself a lot of time and money. It's nice to hear some of my videos are actually helping people out. Now I cant wait to make more videos. Thanks for watching
Bro... words can’t describe how much your video helped me. Thank you thank you thank you!!! Had to change cracked and leaking intake manifold. My friend started the disassembly and broke that sensor off at the base and soon after left and never told me about it or where it’s location was. I finished the job but was left with a dangling wire and no idea as to where it went. Also truck either no start or idle way too high or temp gauge not working. I thought I had screwed up majorly. Your video showed me the way! Your the man!!!
Thank you for the video I have a 1997 ford f 150 lariat 5.4 with the same problem I took her to the mechanic and charge me for water pump and thermostat and still heating up thank so much
Thank you for the video. I have a 6.8 and there are two bare wires hanging out near the sensor. I just wanted a good view of it so that I had the ability to pop the connector off. Luckily I didn't have to change out the sensor. New wires to the connector and back on the road. Thanks again.
Thank you so much Car maniac 125 my tachometers showing the same problem and I have a high idle had to turn the idle screw down until I replace the coolant sensor My sensor is a lot easier to get to on my 98 F1 50 XLT it’s located right next to the thermostat on the driver side of the engine thanks again
Great help, I also found an easier step when removing it. Just snap off the electrical connector with a tap of hammer and well placed screwdriver. THEN...you can use a LONG 3/8" extension (I used two 18" extensions to get the reach...have one hand guide the 19MM socket in place and hold where the 2 extensions clip together, and the sensor can be ratcheted out quickly. Putting the new one in is the same slow process with wrench (I also used a 3/4" short one as I went along and still you will be turning in tiny increments. OK hope that helps the process a bit!
Just did this on my 2001 4.6 v8 XLT and the area is so cramped, I couldn't tighten the new one down all the way. It is located in the same spot as this one, though. Going to get one of those swivel-head ratchet wrenches and see if I can get the last few threads tightened up this afternoon. Any idea if it has to be tightened all the way in order to take legit readings, or might I be okay with a little gap? Thank you for posting this, no one else had the location for this sensor on any other videos.
Hey Man, I think you put that thread tape on wrong. Its opposite of what you did... You need to make sure the end of the tape is pointed in counter clockwise direction. Then as you turn threads clockwise the tape will tighten on the threads.
Thanks man! I have a serious problem with my 97, 5.4 F150. P0118 code. Have changed the fuel pump, crank shaft sensor, ECT sensor, etc. No heat. Only ECT that worked was pull from a junked truck, other wise, after market parts the temp gauge didn't work. My research showed that the ECT, and Cyl. Head sensor both trigger the P0118 code. I'll try this next. LOL mind you the shop charged me over $200 for this diagnosis, and wanted to charge over $1700 to change the fuel pump, and tune up which was not the problem. Any suggestions are appreciated.
yea its like when the old carb type engines would flood with to much gas. but it only last a few seconds then it runs great but if you notice your getting worse fuel mileage also. oh and you can use a 3/8 ratchet deep 3/4 and not remove anything.
Mine is a 4.2L and it’s in the back of the head on the driver’s side . A little hard to get to but not impossible if you come from underneath the truck . Nothing else to take off just the sensor itself .
No laying down on the job lol. That sensor is hard to get to which temperature sensor read off the computer in the truck and which on reads the temperature gauge. Because my truck is idling up high and flooding with smoke out the exhaust system every is telling me it is the temperature sensor causing it. My temperature sensor is new as well but it isn't making the gauge move any. Unless you turn the key on or off then it will rise and drop. The motor is warm hand stays at C for cold. So they said it has two sensors for it coolant one for computer and one for the gauge
I have to ask. Why did you disconnect the alternator wires? I just set the alternator to the side and leave the wires connected. I left my alternator on and used a crows foot. took all of 5 minutes to change it
Will a bad cylinder temp sensor cause the engine temp gauge to read hot all the time? My needle goes straight to the highest position when I turn the ignition to the on position. I replaced both engine coolant temp sensors and it still does the same thing. I have not replaced the cylinder temp sensor yet.
Its possible but usually when a guage does that it's a broke or shorted wire. Also, the guage cluster is known for bad connections. It would be best to test the circuit for a short
@@CarManiac125 sir I have a question?? Are you talking about the cooling temp sensor because I think the cylinder sensor controls the temp gauge, am I wrong.
I have a 2005 f150 4.2L. I've looked everywhere for an answer. Problem is that the gauge goes to hot after 20 minutes of driving. It does not actually over heat. Changed cylinder head temperature sensor, thermostat, instrument cluster. Has no leaks no air in coolant system. I'm not sure if this model has a coolant temperature sensor.
When you have a bad temp sensor at a stop does it make the engine feel like it shaking??? And also when driving make it feel like it’s not driving on all cylinders ??
I just grab that universal coolant and save myself the hassle. If I remember correctly the actual coolant that's supposed to be in there is Ford premium gold. I've heard people talk trash about the universal coolant but I've had no problems with it. Even the old gm cars that had the problem with DeX cool eating the plastic intake gaskets. Hope that helps
What size motor are you working on? I have a 4.6 interceptor. There is a piece of styrofoam, like board, behind the CMS. Did you push yours out of the way? Thanks
I've done some research and it seems the CHT sensor is a dry sensor,I am working on a 01 expedition and we had bought a cts,off course they sent one that was for a few models newer so we couldn't ever find it. Turns out the CHT is the same thing on the 01 models,I am going later today to get the right one and get it back together* We just changed all the injectors today,and I am thinking the CHT is the reason for the random misfire now.... after a little more research and watching your video*
If thats one that has a plastic intake manifold on it, check for cracks. I had the random misfire code pop up for that also. Its rare but does happen. Usually has lean o2 codes with it. Also, check to see if your spark plugs are tightened down. I had another slight miss and one day the plug that was loose shot out. Ended up buying the cal-van kit to repair it
Man, what a huge help this video has been. This little sensor has been my problem 🤞. Let me ask you something, have you ever replaced an intake manifold on this motor? I’m in the process of replacing my leaky intake & was wondering what all I should replace while the intake is out?
I have and the number one thing that I'll tell you to change will be the spark plugs cause they are easy to change with the intake outta the way. I actually was gonna do that video but I was pressed for time. If only I could free up time, lol. Replace the thermostat of course and look at your heater hose tube that runs under the intake. It has a o-ring that goes in the back of where the water pump is located. It would be easier to show you than trying to explain it, lol. Oh, be prepared to clean that valley out cause everything usually ends up collecting up in there. When I did mine I had to use a shop vac and a scraper to dig the caked up mud and I found a mouse or something carried cigarette butts and whatever else to make itself a bed. Also replace your fuel injector o-ring out. That should be it unless you end up breaking one or more coils from removal. I ended up replacing 2 of them do to this, lol
Car Maniac125 Ok, I do plan on replacing all the coils, plugs, injectors & O-rings. I’ve got a new CHT sensor on the way & I’m about to buy that heater hose tube now. I’m also going to go ahead & replace the heater hose connector (I call it a tit) on the back side of the water pump. Thank you for your help. Keep the good work up, brother!
So here’s my problem, my wires got chewed through right at the sensor by a mouse. I don’t know where the wires go exactly to communicate with the pcm. I see they go towards the driver side in the video, but where exactly? Any help is appreciated.
I wish I had that answer for you but I don't. Its been a long time since I did that job and it maybe in your best interest to try and get a pigtail plug for that sensor and splice it in. One thing I do know is some time in the 90's ford started making their wiring harnesses all one unit. So its either replace the whole harness or splice in what needs fixed
Thats a coolant temp sensor. Not a Cylinder head temp. sensor. I learned that the hard way. The cylinder head sensor is located in the rear above the number six cylinder head. on passenger side.
I just changed the intake manifold and gaskets on my 5.4 triton but when I go to start it, it won’t fire up. Checked it it had fuel pressure and spark, I kept looking around and found the head temperature sensor broken. Hopefully when I replace it my truck fires right up!!
Justin Do you have an update on your truck? The intake manifold on my 2002 f150 5.4 was replaced 2 months ago and now I’m in a crank no start scenario. The P1288 code is leading me towards the CHT sensor.
Do you recommend changing the wiring while I’m there as well? Also, I see you have the K&N cold air intake. Been thinking of getting one for my 01 F150 5.4 v8 4x4. What’s your thoughts on it? Is it worth the $280+ bucks for it? Thanks again for the helpful video.
Changing the wire would be worth while if it looks ragged, otherwise I wouldn't bother. The K&N cold air intake doesn't really seem to help much do to heat soaking but if you combined the intake with some header wrap, it'll definitely work the way it should. On its own it's ok but I personally feel they over priced it for the little bit it does. I've heard you need the mass airflow sensor calibrated for it to work right but if you go check out bleepin jeep here on UA-cam. Matt does a great cold air intake video that will help you decide on what your gonna end up doing. I also plan on changing mine thanks to bleepin jeep
Not off hand but I do have a 4.6l model in my drive now. Unfortunately I'm at work now. Keep your eyes open here and when I get home tonight I'll check out the 4.6l I have and let you know
Thanks, I’m getting a P1299 code and have read up on the 3-phases that Ford built into this system. 1) initial safety check engine light, 2) shutting down 4 injectors to cool cylinders and then, 3) shutting down all injectors
Well, I just got home and I raised the hood on my 99 with the 4.6l and that sensor is in the same location as my 01 5.4l. My 99 with the 4.6l has the aluminum intake manifold on if that matters
Thank you very much. I could not find this info anywhere . . . For your information - P1299 Ford Description Indicates an engine overheat condition was detected by the Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) sensor. A Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM) strategy called fail-safe cooling was activated to cool the engine. This ‘strategy’ apparently occurs in the 3 phases I was referring to. I appreciate your help - thanks again !!!
Wow, that's what I just seen myself. All the years I've worked on these monsters and never knew or at least seen one with the DOHC engine. I know one thing for sure. Everyone one of them bodysytled SUV and truck is when they need the timing chain tensioner and guides replaced the body has to be lifted off the frame to remove the valve covers. I'm sorry to be your bad news delivery guy but if you have no way to lift the body up it's best to see a shop. I wouldn't tell them to change that sensor though. Tell them the problem your having and let them look it over and test things out. I worked out in the shops and know that techs dont like to be told what to do. Good luck. I was actually looking at a nav and now that I know that I may just change my mind. However I am crazy when it comes to cars and trucks so I may still get myself one, lol
Check engine light may or may no in my case, come on. If you pay attention to the beginning of my video you'll see the idle start to jump up and down. It has stalled on me before. If the thing goes out completely the truck would start and stall immediately. It can be checked with and ohmmeter but you need to create the cold or hot temps to get it to react.
Omg why is my truck so different i have a 03 and my truck doesn't have all that free space in the back like yours does and the stupid clip is up against the wall. I can get my hand or any too to take the clip off
Hmmm, I know in 2004 year was the split model year where they had the heritage model which would have the old 2 valve Triton and the new body had the 3 valve Triton. Not sure about a 2003 having a 3 valve engine. But I do know the 3 valve engine is set up way different and the temp sensor is mounted on the rear of the cylinder head on the passenger side(right side) also known as bank 1 side. Idk you got me stumped on this
@@CarManiac125 ok thanks for video. Im. Getting no codes. This only in cold start up. I changed iac and did smoke test, looks tight. Mine. ua-cam.com/video/zJrzgJvRKuQ/v-deo.html same cold stumble. Going to change this week, thanks
Ummmm... The CHT sensor is in a hole in the cylinder head....... not in the coolant. It only measures the temperature of the cylinder head. Then the temperature of the coolant ECT is calculated by the computer, for a normal engine, based on what that engine cylinder head temperature is. Crappy but good enough to run an engine until something goes wrong
Thanks for this video. I was about to pull my intake to change the CHT sensor. You saved me a lot of time and money.
Your most welcome sir and that was my first time actually changing that thing, lol. I thought I was gonna have to pull the intake too. A little effort with a wrench and saved myself a lot of time and money. It's nice to hear some of my videos are actually helping people out. Now I cant wait to make more videos. Thanks for watching
Bro... words can’t describe how much your video helped me. Thank you thank you thank you!!! Had to change cracked and leaking intake manifold. My friend started the disassembly and broke that sensor off at the base and soon after left and never told me about it or where it’s location was. I finished the job but was left with a dangling wire and no idea as to where it went. Also truck either no start or idle way too high or temp gauge not working. I thought I had screwed up majorly. Your video showed me the way! Your the man!!!
THANK YOU I THOUGHT I WASNT GOING TO BE ABLE TO PAY RENT BUT YOU SAVED ME
Thanks. been hunting for this issue for a year. My truck doing the same in cold weather.
Thank you for the video I have a 1997 ford f 150 lariat 5.4 with the same problem I took her to the mechanic and charge me for water pump and thermostat and still heating up thank so much
Thank you for the video. I have a 6.8 and there are two bare wires hanging out near the sensor. I just wanted a good view of it so that I had the ability to pop the connector off. Luckily I didn't have to change out the sensor. New wires to the connector and back on the road. Thanks again.
Thank you for this video! Saved me a fortune at the shop.
I know that you meant to put the thread tape on in the other direction.
Yeah, sometimes making the video's you end up confusing yourself, lol
Thank you so much Car maniac 125 my tachometers showing the same problem and I have a high idle had to turn the idle screw down until I replace the coolant sensor My sensor is a lot easier to get to on my 98 F1 50 XLT it’s located right next to the thermostat on the driver side of the engine thanks again
Great help, I also found an easier step when removing it. Just snap off the electrical connector with a tap of hammer and well placed screwdriver. THEN...you can use a LONG 3/8" extension (I used two 18" extensions to get the reach...have one hand guide the 19MM socket in place and hold where the 2 extensions clip together, and the sensor can be ratcheted out quickly. Putting the new one in is the same slow process with wrench (I also used a 3/4" short one as I went along and still you will be turning in tiny increments. OK hope that helps the process a bit!
Preciate yu bro, all the vids i watched showed me nothing but bull, yu kept it simple and right to the punch with clear vid
One of the best videos I've seen. Excellent detail. Time to go do it now. Thank you!
Just did this on my 2001 4.6 v8 XLT and the area is so cramped, I couldn't tighten the new one down all the way. It is located in the same spot as this one, though. Going to get one of those swivel-head ratchet wrenches and see if I can get the last few threads tightened up this afternoon. Any idea if it has to be tightened all the way in order to take legit readings, or might I be okay with a little gap?
Thank you for posting this, no one else had the location for this sensor on any other videos.
Dude I love you this is the best video I've ever found ❤
Thanks helped a lot on my f150 2000
Hey Man, I think you put that thread tape on wrong. Its opposite of what you did... You need to make sure the end of the tape is pointed in counter clockwise direction. Then as you turn threads clockwise the tape will tighten on the threads.
Thanks man! I have a serious problem with my 97, 5.4 F150. P0118 code. Have changed the fuel pump, crank shaft sensor, ECT sensor, etc. No heat. Only ECT that worked was pull from a junked truck, other wise, after market parts the temp gauge didn't work. My research showed that the ECT, and Cyl. Head sensor both trigger the P0118 code. I'll try this next. LOL mind you the shop charged me over $200 for this diagnosis, and wanted to charge over $1700 to change the fuel pump, and tune up which was not the problem. Any suggestions are appreciated.
yea its like when the old carb type engines would flood with to much gas. but it only last a few seconds then it runs great but if you notice your getting worse fuel mileage also. oh and you can use a 3/8 ratchet deep 3/4 and not remove anything.
Mine is a 4.2L and it’s in the back of the head on the driver’s side . A little hard to get to but not impossible if you come from underneath the truck . Nothing else to take off just the sensor itself .
No laying down on the job lol. That sensor is hard to get to which temperature sensor read off the computer in the truck and which on reads the temperature gauge. Because my truck is idling up high and flooding with smoke out the exhaust system every is telling me it is the temperature sensor causing it. My temperature sensor is new as well but it isn't making the gauge move any. Unless you turn the key on or off then it will rise and drop. The motor is warm hand stays at C for cold. So they said it has two sensors for it coolant one for computer and one for the gauge
I have to ask. Why did you disconnect the alternator wires? I just set the alternator to the side and leave the wires connected.
I left my alternator on and used a crows foot. took all of 5 minutes to change it
thanks for the video it helped me get the job done
Gracias por decirme cómo solucionar el problema
Will a bad cylinder temp sensor cause the engine temp gauge to read hot all the time? My needle goes straight to the highest position when I turn the ignition to the on position. I replaced both engine coolant temp sensors and it still does the same thing. I have not replaced the cylinder temp sensor yet.
Its possible but usually when a guage does that it's a broke or shorted wire. Also, the guage cluster is known for bad connections. It would be best to test the circuit for a short
@@CarManiac125 it turned out it was the gauge cluster. Thank you for your help.
Is this the same place for a 02 with 5.4 triton
@@CarManiac125 sir I have a question?? Are you talking about the cooling temp sensor because I think the cylinder sensor controls the temp gauge, am I wrong.
I have a 2005 f150 4.2L. I've looked everywhere for an answer. Problem is that the gauge goes to hot after 20 minutes of driving. It does not actually over heat. Changed cylinder head temperature sensor, thermostat, instrument cluster. Has no leaks no air in coolant system. I'm not sure if this model has a coolant temperature sensor.
Thank for this video it really help me alot, thanks again
When you have a bad temp sensor at a stop does it make the engine feel like it shaking??? And also when driving make it feel like it’s not driving on all cylinders ??
What length 19mm wrench did you use? I can't get it to turn now bent a corner
Hey brother, bit of a random question here...what type of engine coolant do you use on your 2001 F-150 5.4 V8 Gas?
I just grab that universal coolant and save myself the hassle. If I remember correctly the actual coolant that's supposed to be in there is Ford premium gold. I've heard people talk trash about the universal coolant but I've had no problems with it. Even the old gm cars that had the problem with DeX cool eating the plastic intake gaskets. Hope that helps
Will you get a check engine like because of this.
What size motor are you working on? I have a 4.6 interceptor. There is a piece of styrofoam, like board, behind the CMS. Did you push yours out of the way? Thanks
That was a 5.4l and there was nothing like that in my way
Donde esta ubicado el cranck sensor and los de eleva
I've done some research and it seems the CHT sensor is a dry sensor,I am working on a 01 expedition and we had bought a cts,off course they sent one that was for a few models newer so we couldn't ever find it.
Turns out the CHT is the same thing on the 01 models,I am going later today to get the right one and get it back together*
We just changed all the injectors today,and I am thinking the CHT is the reason for the random misfire now.... after a little more research and watching your video*
If thats one that has a plastic intake manifold on it, check for cracks. I had the random misfire code pop up for that also. Its rare but does happen. Usually has lean o2 codes with it. Also, check to see if your spark plugs are tightened down. I had another slight miss and one day the plug that was loose shot out. Ended up buying the cal-van kit to repair it
any videos on how to remove a broken sensor in the engine ??
will it leak if not tighten all the way down?
Coolant didn’t come out of mine either I replaced mine because because I was getting a p0125 code wouldn’t go in to close loop mode
Stubby socket and a crows footed Would make that job a lot easier
Man, what a huge help this video has been.
This little sensor has been my problem 🤞.
Let me ask you something, have you ever replaced an intake manifold on this motor? I’m in the process of replacing my leaky intake & was wondering what all I should replace while the intake is out?
I have and the number one thing that I'll tell you to change will be the spark plugs cause they are easy to change with the intake outta the way. I actually was gonna do that video but I was pressed for time. If only I could free up time, lol. Replace the thermostat of course and look at your heater hose tube that runs under the intake. It has a o-ring that goes in the back of where the water pump is located. It would be easier to show you than trying to explain it, lol. Oh, be prepared to clean that valley out cause everything usually ends up collecting up in there. When I did mine I had to use a shop vac and a scraper to dig the caked up mud and I found a mouse or something carried cigarette butts and whatever else to make itself a bed. Also replace your fuel injector o-ring out. That should be it unless you end up breaking one or more coils from removal. I ended up replacing 2 of them do to this, lol
Car Maniac125 Ok, I do plan on replacing all the coils, plugs, injectors & O-rings. I’ve got a new CHT sensor on the way & I’m about to buy that heater hose tube now.
I’m also going to go ahead & replace the heater hose connector (I call it a tit) on the back side of the water pump.
Thank you for your help. Keep the good work up, brother!
So here’s my problem, my wires got chewed through right at the sensor by a mouse. I don’t know where the wires go exactly to communicate with the pcm. I see they go towards the driver side in the video, but where exactly? Any help is appreciated.
I wish I had that answer for you but I don't. Its been a long time since I did that job and it maybe in your best interest to try and get a pigtail plug for that sensor and splice it in. One thing I do know is some time in the 90's ford started making their wiring harnesses all one unit. So its either replace the whole harness or splice in what needs fixed
WPT-1254 is the part number for the harness for future reference.
Thats a coolant temp sensor. Not a Cylinder head temp. sensor. I learned that the hard way. The cylinder head sensor is located in the rear above the number six cylinder head. on passenger side.
What happen
Check engine light on with p1285 code and p1299 mechanic says water pump and thermostat
I clicked on the pick cuz this truck is so sexy!
I just changed the intake manifold and gaskets on my 5.4 triton but when I go to start it, it won’t fire up. Checked it it had fuel pressure and spark, I kept looking around and found the head temperature sensor broken. Hopefully when I replace it my truck fires right up!!
Justin
Do you have an update on your truck? The intake manifold on my 2002 f150 5.4 was replaced 2 months ago and now I’m in a crank no start scenario. The P1288 code is leading me towards the CHT sensor.
Do you recommend changing the wiring while I’m there as well?
Also, I see you have the K&N cold air intake. Been thinking of getting one for my 01 F150 5.4 v8 4x4. What’s your thoughts on it? Is it worth the $280+ bucks for it?
Thanks again for the helpful video.
Changing the wire would be worth while if it looks ragged, otherwise I wouldn't bother. The K&N cold air intake doesn't really seem to help much do to heat soaking but if you combined the intake with some header wrap, it'll definitely work the way it should. On its own it's ok but I personally feel they over priced it for the little bit it does. I've heard you need the mass airflow sensor calibrated for it to work right but if you go check out bleepin jeep here on UA-cam. Matt does a great cold air intake video that will help you decide on what your gonna end up doing. I also plan on changing mine thanks to bleepin jeep
It’s funny I did the part change and the problem is still continuous every morning when I turn the vehicle first thing in the morning.
Is a 02 F-150 with a 5.4 triton sensor located in same place
Yep
Ok thanks gonna try fix it today
Got to it but seem pretty tight don't wanna break it any tips to getting it loose
Ok just wanna say thanks got it out and replaced, truck is running normal all lights are out and another thanks to you
Amazing one of a kind!
Any idea where it’s located on a 4.6?
Not off hand but I do have a 4.6l model in my drive now. Unfortunately I'm at work now. Keep your eyes open here and when I get home tonight I'll check out the 4.6l I have and let you know
Thanks, I’m getting a P1299 code and have read up on the 3-phases that Ford built into this system. 1) initial safety check engine light, 2) shutting down 4 injectors to cool cylinders and then, 3) shutting down all injectors
Good to know actually👍
Well, I just got home and I raised the hood on my 99 with the 4.6l and that sensor is in the same location as my 01 5.4l. My 99 with the 4.6l has the aluminum intake manifold on if that matters
Thank you very much. I could not find this info anywhere . . . For your information - P1299 Ford Description Indicates an engine overheat condition was detected by the Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) sensor. A Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM) strategy called fail-safe cooling was activated to cool the engine. This ‘strategy’ apparently occurs in the 3 phases I was referring to. I appreciate your help - thanks again !!!
it a blind hole,no coolant from there
Yeah I figured that one out after removal, lol. That was the first time had ever had to change one of them. The truck does run better now
Why can’t I find the part number
Oh you replaced the temperature sender, not the CHT sensor. The CHT is underneath the intake manifold on the rear passenger side of the engine.
That's a 2001 2 valve engine not the 3 valve
is this the same for an 03 navigator with the 32v 5.4l?
Honestly I didnt even know they had a 32v 5.4l in those, lol. I'll do some digging around and see what I find
Car Maniac125 thinks what I’m seeing it’s in the back of the head I’m hoping that’s not the case lol
Wow, that's what I just seen myself. All the years I've worked on these monsters and never knew or at least seen one with the DOHC engine. I know one thing for sure. Everyone one of them bodysytled SUV and truck is when they need the timing chain tensioner and guides replaced the body has to be lifted off the frame to remove the valve covers. I'm sorry to be your bad news delivery guy but if you have no way to lift the body up it's best to see a shop. I wouldn't tell them to change that sensor though. Tell them the problem your having and let them look it over and test things out. I worked out in the shops and know that techs dont like to be told what to do. Good luck. I was actually looking at a nav and now that I know that I may just change my mind. However I am crazy when it comes to cars and trucks so I may still get myself one, lol
I believe 97-06 were the only years that had the 32v
Does dis part bring the check engine light on?? Or how to tell if I need to replace??
Check engine light may or may no in my case, come on. If you pay attention to the beginning of my video you'll see the idle start to jump up and down. It has stalled on me before. If the thing goes out completely the truck would start and stall immediately. It can be checked with and ohmmeter but you need to create the cold or hot temps to get it to react.
@@CarManiac125 what about when your driving
Not effected. As soon as the temperature changes its fine
Car Maniac125 does it have to do with anything overheating?
I've never known it to cause overheating, but if by chance this was a vechile with an electric cooling fan then it could
Omg why is my truck so different i have a 03 and my truck doesn't have all that free space in the back like yours does and the stupid clip is up against the wall. I can get my hand or any too to take the clip off
Hmmm, I know in 2004 year was the split model year where they had the heritage model which would have the old 2 valve Triton and the new body had the 3 valve Triton. Not sure about a 2003 having a 3 valve engine. But I do know the 3 valve engine is set up way different and the temp sensor is mounted on the rear of the cylinder head on the passenger side(right side) also known as bank 1 side. Idk you got me stumped on this
@@CarManiac125 i got the clip off but now there is another issue I can't get any 3/4 socket to fit in there
Cut your wrench to fit with a grinder
Did this throw any codes?
Not for me but it could
@@CarManiac125 ok thanks for video. Im. Getting no codes. This only in cold start up. I changed iac and did smoke test, looks tight. Mine. ua-cam.com/video/zJrzgJvRKuQ/v-deo.html same cold stumble. Going to change this week, thanks
Fuckin life saver bro
Thanks
Is your truck a 4.6?
5.4l
is this why my 2000 f150 AC not working,
No, if you ac isn't working that sensor has nothing to do with it
Ummmm... The CHT sensor is in a hole in the cylinder head....... not in the coolant. It only measures the temperature of the cylinder head.
Then the temperature of the coolant ECT is calculated by the computer, for a normal engine, based on what that engine cylinder head temperature is.
Crappy but good enough to run an engine until something goes wrong
Man, that tape is on bass ackwards. Look at it. Just look. Reason I know is because I put tape on threads for a living.
Move.you slow.