car was running cold, (gauge would show cold when engine is warm) radiator fans blowing like crazy, rough idle, coolant leaking from sensor clip, got a new sensor from my local store for $30 for a euro sport sedan and it took me about 10-20min to replace (given i have 0 room to work on an audi but it’s better than removing any screws hoses or clamps) typically should be a 3 min job had the same part on there last time and got a lifetime warranty on it. lasted me roughly 25k miles. infinite part glitch irl thanks for the help
He forgot to mention, when your radiator coolant fan runs continuously, even when your vehicle is shut off, it could be your coolant temperature sensor.
I just got this issue fixed today my Tahoe did this, the fan motor was extremely loud and stayed on after I shut down the engine. This is the second I've replaced it. I had to do this a few months ago. Do you think it's something else?
Thank you! 04 F150 4.6L 2wd and was on my way to Home Depot and looked down and noticed my temp guage was cold, and when I pulled in to Depot it stalled and had to crank, then fully depress the pedal (which I think stops the fuel injectors from spraying) and same start condition with high idle and trying to pull at a stop light. I got my scanner and it's not super fancy but reads codes and up popped coolant temp sensor or CHT high circuit and that was the same reading on a cold engine in my Honda accord so I put 2 and 2 together, and about to replace the sensor. Could use a coolant drain and fill as well. Bought 8 yrs ago with 134k, and at almost 167k 33k in 8 yrs not too bad and everything else has already happened to it. Blew out the #1 cylinder, Overdrive servo piston and snap ring replaced, etc. Love my truck tho, it's my audio project now. Thanx for the thorough information 👍
your videos are really helpful thank you , when its at normal running temp my temperature gauge moves down rapidly a few millimetres while driving and then back up again but fans still kick in like normal , it feels electrical from how fast it goes up and down . any ideas what it could be
@@Top5AutoRepairsthank you for reply , I did change the coolant and bled the system with funnel for a while until fully warmed up and no bubbles were present, and then topped off coolant , could a bad temp sensor or thermostat cause my issue
@@bccapone837that’s what I did too. Let all the air out the system and car was actually fine after that. Drove for a good hour back to my house and shut the car off. Once I turned the car back on, it began overheating again. Fans still kicked on and there weren’t any leaks. Have you found the issue? I just ordered the sensor to see if it’ll solve it but still looking for help on the issue.
The car itself is not giving the engine light on but the little handheld scanner I just bought is showing that error code. I had some problems with some coils and plugs and not having reset the idle after I unhook the battery. I had a bunch of coolant that I just poured into the reservoir without measuring it correctly with some water I put in. That's the only coolant thing that I could see having happened except that I drove with the engine light on quite a bit and most of the coolant was gone but it didn't overheat.
Can I use a multimeter to test the ECT sensor or is it trial and error? Can you tell me if it’s possible to determine whether it’s the sensor or the wire/connection issue?
Excellent video bro, you really break it down into a great detail. I replaced my thermo fan switch on my radiator for my VR6 with a low temp one and ever since that I noticed that the fan does not come on after the car is turned off after a long drive. Will this cause damage or coolant leaks? What could it possibly be?
Thank for your info my concern is that I replaced the cooler sensor but my spark plugs keep on getting wet and the engine idle is rough!!! What could be the problem oh not forgetting it stall's or there's no power while driving
I'm having this issue right now on my 2006 G35 sedan... Car only overheats while on idle but cools down when I start driving. The fan does not seem to kick on at times. Not sure which one is failing. Radiator and thermostats seems good. Both top and lower radiator hose attached to the thermostat were warm/hot when I touch or squeeze them. I'm thinking either I need a new fan, fan motor, or temp sensor.
I have 2010 toyota corolla 2NZFE , 1.3 L engine, it has continouse long term rich -14% , mechanic checked every thing, 140 PSi dry compression for each cylinder. last he found that there is no thermostate, my question is , does running engine without thermostate result in LTFT -14%,? assuming other things working fine
Hi, would it also cause engine noise? I noticed my engine whent quieter after replacing my faulty coolant sensor, but I used a cheap one. The noise is startin to comeback after 1-2 months of the new cooalnt sensor. I'll probably replace it with a better quality one.
Love the channel 💪🏼 Need some help on my Buick century. I've had 4 months and it's issues after issues. I'm no mechanic so I'm learning as I'm going. Overheating everyday. I've bleed the air out, sparks are good. MAF good, throttle clean. I have all the symptoms except for, black smoke and stalling out. Any advice
Did you check or replace the thermostat? Did you flush the old coolant? Do you have enough water in your coolant? Do you have any pin hole leaks on your rad upper lower hoses? Are the clamps not tight or over tightened? Is your overflow reservoir the type that is sealed? Is the cap good? Did you replace the radiator cap with a oem match part. Those are all necessary if you're overheating. Also make sure your radiator is clean on the outside and that the fan works etc. Also you need more water the hotter it is. Antifreeze is there to keep water from freezing but it also lowers the waters ability to carry heat. So you have to make sure your mix is not too concentrated
i have this problem right now with my 80s toyota. i think it's the sensor because i just replaced my radiator with a bigger one, along with the coolant of course. the problem is that she's okay on idle, but when i drive normally (2-3000 rpm) the dash says she heats up quick. than when i slow down or brake it instantlygoes back to normal, but the hoses and radiator feel like hand warmers, or a little too hot to touch.
My car dash temp is cold to hot and Looks fine even When driving around. I'm confused as to why it would need changed the reading are always the same but I have a rich condition going on. I've changed map and air intake and air fuel ratio in the cat. I haven't changed the coolant temp. I'm not seeing why change it yet ..but I am alerted to it .. do I change it anyways or are y'all changing them cause the car looks to be overheating by the dash temp.
A few weeks back I had the check engine light come on; it was somewhat cold outside (-18C). I was in a bit of a hurry and had only had the engine block heater on for about an hour when I as per usual started the car, got outside to unplug the outlet and noticed something off with the sound from the engine. I got back in the car and saw the check engine light lit. Plugged in my OBD-reader and got code P011600. It turns out the computer went into some sort of fail-safe mode and turned the radiator fan to full blast in case the engine was running hot. I drove the 10 min ride to where I was going and noticed that the temp gauge increased at a normal rate. The AC worked as it should and warmed up the coupé on the ride so I figured the thermostat should be functioning all right. Cleared the error code and that was that; the car operated as normal. A few days later the code came back and once more I cleared it. I ordered a replacement sensor but the error has not occurred again. The freeze frame showed that the sensor had reported a coolant temp of -40C which is nonsense since the ambient temperature hasn't yet gone below -20C this winter. I figure I'll wait and see, if it happens again I'll replace the sensor. I drive a 2004 Chrysler 300M and thankfully, in spite of all it's questionable design (I'm looking at you, whoever made the call on the placement of the battery!) the sensor is easily accessible by just popping the hood. Any thoughts?
Mechanics i know little about but I struggle with my Chrysler 200 3.6 l a lot recently. Christmas day it left me stranded . Just died at a ted light . I ( a female) put it in neuteral to roll it backwards tried jumping in it to hit the brakes almost ran over myself. When it tapped the guardrail I had to get out and try to steer and push fwd up an incline . S little guy stopped to try and help but to no avail it didn't work then Paul bunion stopped and helped easily. Then an 8 he wait for a tow. So I was told battery, replaced it, wouldn't start then im told the starter replaced that . Now on my way to work the overheating happens so here I sit waiting for it to cool down so I can add coolant. I do have a new temp coolant sensor but don't know where or how, the person that put the starter in disregarded my needs for this to be replaced. . So I guess I'm out of work for the day but I'm wondering if its just the sensor. My car was blowing freezing air the entire time. I saw the Guage rising and before it got ¾ of the way up I pulled over and shut down however its been 15/20 min and uts still sreamung under the hood😢
I got a 2019 c43 Mercedes, today I turned it on at 6 am cold start, and it started a little rough, then I checked my temp and it was showing it already being warmed up? Not cold or overheated just warmed up… then my radiator fan turned itself on and got to full speed. Then a check engine light ? Could it be my temp sensor ?
My fan only comes on when i turn the a/c on. The temp gauge shows normal for the amount of time running. Ive changed the sensor,also the thermostat. It ran for about 2 weeks then the p2181 code popped back on. Im lost on what to try next any suggestions would be appreciated
I've tried two after markets sensors and 2mopar ones on my 2015 ram ecodiesel it keeps tripping my check engine light. No overheating or anything. Every few hundred miles. Any ideas why?
I don't have a check engine light for it but I got a strong feeling it is. It does runs rich. When it was getting hot I noticed the fan didn't turn on at all. Only if I turn the a/c on. Also I went back 1 hr later to dig more into it, when I turn on the switch fans turned on quickly. Do you think it has to send the check engine code automatically or because my honda is old it might show up?? Please answer if you can. Thx u.
My tundra 06 with a 4.0L normally gets to almost the middle of C and H. Today it is barely above the C when I know it goes within 2 miles almost in between. Any help?
Can a bad fan cause the housing to be a low level of coolant in housing for a 2005 gt mustang when coolant parts been replaced lik with a coolant flush or thermostat
I had recently changed my coolant temperature sensor on 2016 D13 engine. My gauge was displaying normal operating temperatures, after some months passed by it started acting irregularly. But on my cluster the temperature is reading normal. Would it be okay to disconnect the sensor and drive until I make it home for diagnostic and repair?
don't know how smart your car is but mine will think it is -40c outside ( actual temp is 25c) and runs very rich starting the engine without the coolant sensor plugged in
can you please give me an idea, my car is opel zafira B 1.6 of 2006 show these codes on the screen p111505 and p111606. after I have changed many parts and the problem continues again, I have changed the temperature sensors in the radiator and in the thermostat, the original thermostat has been changed, the new deposit cap, the water pump. I don't know what to change, I have spent a lot of money but no solution please help me with any idea
I have these malfunctioning if you could tell me what the issues would be Engine coolant thermostat heater tri circuit low voltage test status Engine coolant thermostat heater tri circuit open test status Engine coolant thermostat heater ctri circuit high voltage test status These are some of the other codes that popped up as well B0413:02 B101E:4B not sure what these mean
I took my 2010 Camry to the Toyota dealer and they diagnosed my cooling sensor to be the issue of my temperature gauge going so high almost one line before it hits red, the temperature gauge kept going up and down and was never down to C anymore when my car was home all night before going to work!
On my jeep grand Cherokee 2015 after some warm up temp gauge freezes on 1/4 and almost not moving anywhere even after hundreds of miles… is that okay? Thanks
no - if the sensor is easily accessible and cheap, just replace it and see. Better to disconnect the negative battery terminal when replacing the sensor ( the computer may need to restart to detect the new sensor correctly ).
I have a 2003 Lincoln Navigator. I noticed on my dashboard when I turn the key to on position. There’s a temperature light on. Would that cause the relay to the fuel pump not kick on due to the safety? Thanks
Did he have contact with transmission Because my mécanique change the engine cooler yesterday now i have problem with overheating with transmission work with one gear the first one
I have a 2011 Ford Fusion. 3.0, 6 cylinder. My fan will sometimes stay on for 20 to 30 minutes until it kills the battery. I have a new sensor but can't find the location so I can change it out. Videos or internet don't tell me a dang thing.
I have a 2014 Buick regal that'll turn on and sometimes it'll stay on and it'll idle okay and then bog down and shut off or sometimes I can drive it to the corner and then when I stop it'll turn off. What could it be? I've tried so many things and still doing it.
I’d have Honda accord 2020 sport the engine start/ stop button when I shut the car off button does not shuff off complete engine shut off but the button light stay on. Parking p showing in dashboard and no issue with parking or park the car can u help tell me why
On that last part “false reading” you mention if the engine is warm/hot and the needle on C now how bout when the engine is cold and the temp gauge needle is on H Same problem correct ?
hi..my car overheat some time..one off 10 times of driving i smelled engine oil burning and then when i slow down and close ac its normal back..tomorrow i check the engine oil lower a bit..what cause this?
Hello hi,....My car is a zuzuki balino, earlier when driving the vehicle it misfires when the engine is hot.., after that when I scanned the vehicle, I changed the scam sensor and the oxygen sensor (which is in the middle of the silencer).. now the engine is working fine. It does, then it started in the morning and it misfires until the engine is warmed up. As soon as it warms up, the car runs fine without any problems,...what's wrong with this? Please I hope you can give me the right advice, no black smoke or oil pygmies visible, is there good fuel consumption,..
1:15 [1MZFE ENGINE] I changed my coolant temp sensor and didn’t do my radiator fan switch sensors an it kept overheating at idle … it would spit all my coolant into the reservoir…. Took me like 4 months of trying to figure it out … i guess when you change one thing , change the rest lol .
My temperature gauge it is not over heating but it is going a little low but not all the way low and then goes back up in the regular part then it will go a little low again lol do u think it’s my coolant temperature sensor too? Any ways imma have a mechanic replace my CTS, all 4 spark plugs, and refill my coolant, I’ll do those 3 don’t fix the issue then it’s probably a thermostat issue ? Damn I hate car repairs always costing money lol oh yea I do not have a check engine light no lights at all on dash what u think is my issue bro?
Mine first Everytime I turn my chevy cruze Lt 2014 It say engine reduce power and then traccion On after that start shaking the engine and Went I try acceleration It goes slow I press the gas pedal all the way and it drive slow and then it show in the dash AC Due too a high Engine temperature
2005 police crown vic ---- BRO I NEED HELP! been having overheating issues & replaced everything in the system. NOT overheating anymore but the radiator fan goes to high after only 5 mins of running. stays on high fan until shut off. replaced the radiator, water pump, CT sensor, HT sensor, thermostat (160), fresh coolant after 3 flushes. used a laser temp tool & highest reading on cyl or anywhere, is only 160 degrees. fan will be on HIGH with that LOW temp. CANT FIGURE IT OUT & NEED TO SELL!. NO ENGINE CODES.
I have everyone of these symptoms except over heating cause my truck doesn’t have an electric fan, but I went to take the plug off the sensor ant the whole top of the sensor come apart lol. Like apart in half 😂
I have a Toyota tundra 2006 4.0L and it use to stay below the middle of hot and cold. Now it is a little above the cold. It moves when I turn the key but very little. Just started today and I live in louisiana
I've got an '03 e85 3.0i roadster, just replaced the radiator and got the coolant burped and levels to the appropriate amount a few weeks ago. Now I'm over heating with no engine codes, my radiator fan won't kick on and its idling really rough (rpms bounce between 1k and 800 constantly). I'm thinking its a bad coolant temp sensor but I'm not sure which one to change as I believe there are at least 2 in the system. When facing the vehicle: there is one sensor that looks like it connects to the thermostat (which I changed the day after I did the radiator) the second sensor I believe is on the right side of the engine just above a few coolant hoses. After thinking about the symptoms I feel its probably the first sensor in the thermostat because my radiator fan won't kick on, but then there is the idle issue :/. Just looking for some outside opinions, thanks!!!
2005 PT Cruiser was overheating fan was not coming on replace fan and engine coolant sensor now fan comes on continuous does not overheat what temperature gauge does not register if I turn it off and back on it registers for 5 seconds what can I do please help
HI I RAN AN OBD2 SCANNER AND ITS SAYING EVERYTHINGS OKAE N THEN AFTDR THE SCANS DONE IT SHOWS ON THE SCREEN THAT MY EVAP SYSTEM FAILED.... WAT DOE S THAT MEAN ? N THEN I HAVE A LOUD HUMMING NOISE ON THE BELT SIDE OF MY 2018 SENTRA WATS THAT MEAN?
My coolant temperature connector (wire)is exposed the outer plastic has melted off will this cause my car to go on limp mode I cannot accelerate past 20mph
My bmw 2003 x5 e53 3.0 stay on all the times from morning first start wont shut off unless i turn off the car , i checked the realy and fan switch both good , what could be the problem ? Note: My A/C not blowing cold although its fully charged i dont know if its realted to the fan being stuck on high .
I have a bad thermostat code, replaced it. But check engine light came back after 2 weeks. Cleared the code. 2 weeks later, it came back. Could it be a bad temp sensor? Both fans comes on when the AC is on (this is the only time my cooling fan will come on, otherwise it does not come on when temp is at normal range). Temp gauge is good, not overheating. Coolant was drained, bled and topped off.
Dodge dart 2016 when gets to running temp coolant light comes on and gauge drops to cold while running. And ac/heater stops working. Any reason why. Plenty of fluids
When it’s super hot outside, all the warning signs come on at the same time(NOT THE ENGINE LIGHT) when I start the car. I have to turn on the AC and let my car cool down for 5 minutes, afterwards I turn it off, then restart ignition, then all the warning signs are gone. Could it be a sensor thing. I drive a 22 sonata.
My gauge inside shows temp lower then 1/2 mark. When finished driving car the front of car and hood extremely hot. Also losing coolant had radiator replaced tech said bad was 3 years old and still losing coolant. about 1/2 cup a month. Can smell coolant, The radiator fan runs when AC on never runs whe AC is off. I think the radiator super hot when car turned off and may leak coolant out of cap. Since fan never turns on without ac could sensor be bad? I don't think blown gasket, I thought maybe bad heater core. Had pressure checked was okay. Nothing in oil and no white smoke.
I have a 95 gmc k1500 that will start but will die. It will idle and then it will die. It will putter like it’s not getting enough gas or air. I changed the fuel pump and fuel filter. Thought it might be the maf sensor or the ect sensor. If you know what to do with this situation plz let me know.
@@CubanMofo - there are many ways the coolant sensor can be faulty - reads -40c ( disconnected ) or 130c+ (suggests engine stress) are two extreme which may cause the ac to stay off ( ac is not the concern then - cold/hot engine may not run or stall ) - stuck at say +50c or swing between 10c and 120c for example should not disable the ac - although rare, the computer might be the problem
Hi, I put nissan 2.7 diesal engine in f30 bmw .bm was auto matc now I change to manual first engine n20 was runing with computer box this new nissan engine is without computer box now I can't find the heat gauge wire in bm
I APPRECIATE YOUR INFORMATION, KEEP UP WITH YOUR AWESOME VIDEOS ,IT SURE HELPED ME GET A BETTER UNDERSTANDING ..TWO THUMBS UP AND IF I HAD ANOTHER, ID GIVE YOU THAT ONE UP ALSO.
Hey, I have a infinti q50 20’ with 56k miles. My temperature gauge for the past 2 days jumps up when I’m idling SOMETIMES then as soon as I accelerate it goes back to normal temperature. Doesn’t happen until I’m at an idle for at least 1 min. Smh what’s up
My electronic temp gauge shows overheating, but my cluster gauge shows normal, but my car starts to lose excelleration and no code. I replaced the thermostat, but problem persist, any suggestions??
Can someone tell me, my temperature gauge needle goes up fast as soon as I start the car, but it stays in the middle. I thought it was suppose to rise slowly. Any tips please
I have a 2015 F150 I have no leaking coolant but yet the truck runs hard after 10 minutes of driving . I have the water pump replaced and the thermostat replaced !!! so how is my truck running hot with water in the radiator? Someone please help me my wife is a schoolteacher and she really needs this truck.
get a cheap infrared thermometer and check the upper and lower coolant hose temps when engine in operating temp ( thermostat should open and no temp difference between the hoses) - if there is a difference, the thermostat is stuck closed ( therefore, overheating)
I have a 1996 Chevy Silverado K1500 Z71 w/5.7 350 Vortec , i just inherited it as one could say and its been a pain in the ass. To start with it had trouble starting at first, usually upon first start up it would catch mid start then almost die with 60% of the time it catching and starting but 40% of the time it sputtering off. The 2nd problem was the distributor/cam sensor adjustment, even though it is an EFI spider injection it still uses a distributor to fire (note its not actually a distributor but i don't know what its actually called and it isn't coil packs). After all that it still has issues but the man code it always throws is PO160. Another thing to not about that is it doesn't have CAT's on it, i live in Texas and the EPA can kiss my ass, but anyways atp A: either sell the pos while im still not fucked or B: install an intake manifold and carb as well as HEI distributor and some how mock up the old 4L60E.
Ive replaced it 3 times on my 2015 tahoe 3 times and it fixes everything and then a few days later it starts acting up again. Any guesses what would cause the senson to fail multiple times??
car was running cold, (gauge would show cold when engine is warm) radiator fans blowing like crazy, rough idle, coolant leaking from sensor clip, got a new sensor from my local store for $30 for a euro sport sedan and it took me about 10-20min to replace (given i have 0 room to work on an audi but it’s better than removing any screws hoses or clamps)
typically should be a 3 min job
had the same part on there last time and got a lifetime warranty on it. lasted me roughly 25k miles.
infinite part glitch irl
thanks for the help
How fast did you loose your coolant?
I HAD A COOLANT TEMP CODE, PLUS OVERHEATING, FOUND THE ELECTICAL CONNECTOR WAS BROKEN, REPLACED CONNECTOR CLEAR CODE GOOD TO GO
Why would it over heat from sensor?
@@Edgar-uw6vlthe radiator fans turn on at certain temperature.
If sensor bad not reading temperature and fans wont turn on
@@SmokerupI hope it stops my car from overheating
My car gauge shows overheating but the car is good temperature maybe it's need that sensor @@SugarrPlump
How did you determine it was a good temp ?@@randyrivera4433
this Guy is a Legend any issues you have he have a video for it 👍
He forgot to mention, when your radiator coolant fan runs continuously, even when your vehicle is shut off, it could be your coolant temperature sensor.
Check out one of my latest video, "why cooling fan keeps running." I mentioned it in that video.
@@Top5AutoRepairs ok
This!
I just got this issue fixed today my Tahoe did this, the fan motor was extremely loud and stayed on after I shut down the engine. This is the second I've replaced it. I had to do this a few months ago. Do you think it's something else?
@@stepp-uppwithnecol4381Always use OEM or NTK temp sensors. No autoparts grade garbage
Exactly what I was looking for, thank you my friend.
Thank you for the best auto videos on UA-cam. I hope more and more people subscribe to your channel.
You're welcome
Great job explaining it I had a few of those symptoms so I changed my sensor out
Thank you! 04 F150 4.6L 2wd and was on my way to Home Depot and looked down and noticed my temp guage was cold, and when I pulled in to Depot it stalled and had to crank, then fully depress the pedal (which I think stops the fuel injectors from spraying) and same start condition with high idle and trying to pull at a stop light. I got my scanner and it's not super fancy but reads codes and up popped coolant temp sensor or CHT high circuit and that was the same reading on a cold engine in my Honda accord so I put 2 and 2 together, and about to replace the sensor. Could use a coolant drain and fill as well. Bought 8 yrs ago with 134k, and at almost 167k 33k in 8 yrs not too bad and everything else has already happened to it. Blew out the #1 cylinder, Overdrive servo piston and snap ring replaced, etc. Love my truck tho, it's my audio project now. Thanx for the thorough information 👍
your videos are really helpful thank you , when its at normal running temp my temperature gauge moves down rapidly a few millimetres while driving and then back up again but fans still kick in like normal , it feels electrical from how fast it goes up and down . any ideas what it could be
It's possible air might be trapped in the cooling system
@@Top5AutoRepairsthank you for reply , I did change the coolant and bled the system with funnel for a while until fully warmed up and no bubbles were present, and then topped off coolant , could a bad temp sensor or thermostat cause my issue
@@bccapone837that’s what I did too. Let all the air out the system and car was actually fine after that. Drove for a good hour back to my house and shut the car off. Once I turned the car back on, it began overheating again. Fans still kicked on and there weren’t any leaks. Have you found the issue? I just ordered the sensor to see if it’ll solve it but still looking for help on the issue.
The car itself is not giving the engine light on but the little handheld scanner I just bought is showing that error code. I had some problems with some coils and plugs and not having reset the idle after I unhook the battery. I had a bunch of coolant that I just poured into the reservoir without measuring it correctly with some water I put in. That's the only coolant thing that I could see having happened except that I drove with the engine light on quite a bit and most of the coolant was gone but it didn't overheat.
Can I use a multimeter to test the ECT sensor or is it trial and error? Can you tell me if it’s possible to determine whether it’s the sensor or the wire/connection issue?
Excellent video bro, you really break it down into a great detail. I replaced my thermo fan switch on my radiator for my VR6 with a low temp one and ever since that I noticed that the fan does not come on after the car is turned off after a long drive. Will this cause damage or coolant leaks?
What could it possibly be?
Mate thank you you answered all my questions you are a legend
My man! You are a legend. Thank you for your' to the point' info, it really helps.
Thank you for the explanation, very helpful
Thank for your info my concern is that I replaced the cooler sensor but my spark plugs keep on getting wet and the engine idle is rough!!! What could be the problem oh not forgetting it stall's or there's no power while driving
Very appreciate this video I suspect I'm having a CTS problem.
I'm having this issue right now on my 2006 G35 sedan... Car only overheats while on idle but cools down when I start driving. The fan does not seem to kick on at times. Not sure which one is failing. Radiator and thermostats seems good. Both top and lower radiator hose attached to the thermostat were warm/hot when I touch or squeeze them. I'm thinking either I need a new fan, fan motor, or temp sensor.
i have a 2005 chevy its doing the same thing wht your saying im glad you are on here thanks
Great explanation thank you finally someone breaks it down right to the point🙏😁
Thanks men for explaining all these things,, 👍
Is there a second engine temperature sensor other than the coolant sensor that is beside the thermostat? Any ideas on where it would be located?
I have 2010 toyota corolla 2NZFE , 1.3 L engine, it has continouse long term rich -14% , mechanic checked every thing, 140 PSi dry compression for each cylinder. last he found that there is no thermostate, my question is , does running engine without thermostate result in LTFT -14%,? assuming other things working fine
I heard this sensor will give you no spark if is bad, on Older Civics, is that a true statement?
Hi, would it also cause engine noise? I noticed my engine whent quieter after replacing my faulty coolant sensor, but I used a cheap one. The noise is startin to comeback after 1-2 months of the new cooalnt sensor. I'll probably replace it with a better quality one.
Love the channel 💪🏼
Need some help on my Buick century. I've had 4 months and it's issues after issues. I'm no mechanic so I'm learning as I'm going. Overheating everyday. I've bleed the air out, sparks are good. MAF good, throttle clean. I have all the symptoms except for, black smoke and stalling out. Any advice
Did you check or replace the thermostat? Did you flush the old coolant? Do you have enough water in your coolant? Do you have any pin hole leaks on your rad upper lower hoses? Are the clamps not tight or over tightened? Is your overflow reservoir the type that is sealed? Is the cap good? Did you replace the radiator cap with a oem match part. Those are all necessary if you're overheating. Also make sure your radiator is clean on the outside and that the fan works etc. Also you need more water the hotter it is. Antifreeze is there to keep water from freezing but it also lowers the waters ability to carry heat. So you have to make sure your mix is not too concentrated
i have this problem right now with my 80s toyota. i think it's the sensor because i just replaced my radiator with a bigger one, along with the coolant of course. the problem is that she's okay on idle, but when i drive normally (2-3000 rpm) the dash says she heats up quick. than when i slow down or brake it instantlygoes back to normal, but the hoses and radiator feel like hand warmers, or a little too hot to touch.
My car dash temp is cold to hot and Looks fine even When driving around. I'm confused as to why it would need changed the reading are always the same but I have a rich condition going on. I've changed map and air intake and air fuel ratio in the cat. I haven't changed the coolant temp. I'm not seeing why change it yet ..but I am alerted to it .. do I change it anyways or are y'all changing them cause the car looks to be overheating by the dash temp.
My radiator cooling fan is running non stop. I already checked fuses and relays. Do you think it may be a bad coolant temp sensor?
Correct. Bad coolant temperature sensor, fan switch or a short.
Correct. Bad coolant temperature sensor, fan switch or a short.
A few weeks back I had the check engine light come on; it was somewhat cold outside (-18C). I was in a bit of a hurry and had only had the engine block heater on for about an hour when I as per usual started the car, got outside to unplug the outlet and noticed something off with the sound from the engine. I got back in the car and saw the check engine light lit. Plugged in my OBD-reader and got code P011600. It turns out the computer went into some sort of fail-safe mode and turned the radiator fan to full blast in case the engine was running hot. I drove the 10 min ride to where I was going and noticed that the temp gauge increased at a normal rate. The AC worked as it should and warmed up the coupé on the ride so I figured the thermostat should be functioning all right. Cleared the error code and that was that; the car operated as normal.
A few days later the code came back and once more I cleared it. I ordered a replacement sensor but the error has not occurred again. The freeze frame showed that the sensor had reported a coolant temp of -40C which is nonsense since the ambient temperature hasn't yet gone below -20C this winter. I figure I'll wait and see, if it happens again I'll replace the sensor. I drive a 2004 Chrysler 300M and thankfully, in spite of all it's questionable design (I'm looking at you, whoever made the call on the placement of the battery!) the sensor is easily accessible by just popping the hood.
Any thoughts?
Mechanics i know little about but I struggle with my Chrysler 200 3.6 l a lot recently. Christmas day it left me stranded . Just died at a ted light . I ( a female) put it in neuteral to roll it backwards tried jumping in it to hit the brakes almost ran over myself. When it tapped the guardrail I had to get out and try to steer and push fwd up an incline . S little guy stopped to try and help but to no avail it didn't work then Paul bunion stopped and helped easily. Then an 8 he wait for a tow. So I was told battery, replaced it, wouldn't start then im told the starter replaced that . Now on my way to work the overheating happens so here I sit waiting for it to cool down so I can add coolant. I do have a new temp coolant sensor but don't know where or how, the person that put the starter in disregarded my needs for this to be replaced. . So I guess I'm out of work for the day but I'm wondering if its just the sensor. My car was blowing freezing air the entire time. I saw the Guage rising and before it got ¾ of the way up I pulled over and shut down however its been 15/20 min and uts still sreamung under the hood😢
Now that’s a mechanic who knows the science behind the problem,he only make you change parts after he found out the real problem.😊
Wonderful explanation Bro! Now I just need to find it on my 2005 Chevy Uplander. Thank you from Vancouver Island.
I got a 2019 c43 Mercedes, today I turned it on at 6 am cold start, and it started a little rough, then I checked my temp and it was showing it already being warmed up? Not cold or overheated just warmed up… then my radiator fan turned itself on and got to full speed. Then a check engine light ? Could it be my temp sensor ?
It's a good idea to replace it if you think so, because it's not too expensive and easy to swap, compared to other sensors because where it's located.
My fan only comes on when i turn the a/c on. The temp gauge shows normal for the amount of time running. Ive changed the sensor,also the thermostat. It ran for about 2 weeks then the p2181 code popped back on. Im lost on what to try next any suggestions would be appreciated
I've tried two after markets sensors and 2mopar ones on my 2015 ram ecodiesel it keeps tripping my check engine light. No overheating or anything. Every few hundred miles. Any ideas why?
code(s)?
I don't have a check engine light for it but I got a strong feeling it is. It does runs rich. When it was getting hot I noticed the fan didn't turn on at all. Only if I turn the a/c on. Also I went back 1 hr later to dig more into it, when I turn on the switch fans turned on quickly.
Do you think it has to send the check engine code automatically or because my honda is old it might show up?? Please answer if you can. Thx u.
It shows it sometimes, and sometimes it don’t. Mine did, and that was the problem
My tundra 06 with a 4.0L normally gets to almost the middle of C and H. Today it is barely above the C when I know it goes within 2 miles almost in between. Any help?
Good information amigo
I just ordered a temperature gauge sensor because these are the same exact problems im going through right now.
Did it fix your issue ??
You sir jus got your self a subscriber smart man would this mess with my a c haven’t got that far in the video
Can a bad fan cause the housing to be a low level of coolant in housing for a 2005 gt mustang when coolant parts been replaced lik with a coolant flush or thermostat
I had recently changed my coolant temperature sensor on 2016 D13 engine. My gauge was displaying normal operating temperatures, after some months passed by it started acting irregularly. But on my cluster the temperature is reading normal. Would it be okay to disconnect the sensor and drive until I make it home for diagnostic and repair?
don't know how smart your car is but mine will think it is -40c outside ( actual temp is 25c) and runs very rich starting the engine without the coolant sensor plugged in
can you please give me an idea, my car is opel zafira B 1.6 of 2006 show these codes on the screen p111505 and p111606. after I have changed many parts and the problem continues again, I have changed the temperature sensors in the radiator and in the thermostat, the original thermostat has been changed, the new deposit cap, the water pump. I don't know what to change, I have spent a lot of money but no solution please help me with any idea
I have these malfunctioning if you could tell me what the issues would be
Engine coolant thermostat heater tri circuit low voltage test status
Engine coolant thermostat heater tri circuit open test status
Engine coolant thermostat heater ctri circuit high voltage test status
These are some of the other codes that popped up as well
B0413:02
B101E:4B not sure what these mean
I took my 2010 Camry to the Toyota dealer and they diagnosed my cooling sensor to be the issue of my temperature gauge going so high almost one line before it hits red, the temperature gauge kept going up and down and was never down to C anymore when my car was home all night before going to work!
Does this also cause sluggish acceleration and misfiring?
Yes
@@selvingarcia2017 can u elaborate
On my jeep grand Cherokee 2015 after some warm up temp gauge freezes on 1/4 and almost not moving anywhere even after hundreds of miles… is that okay? Thanks
no - if the sensor is easily accessible and cheap, just replace it and see. Better to disconnect the negative battery terminal when replacing the sensor ( the computer may need to restart to detect the new sensor correctly ).
I have a 2003 Lincoln Navigator. I noticed on my dashboard when I turn the key to on position. There’s a temperature light on. Would that cause the relay to the fuel pump not kick on due to the safety? Thanks
Did he have contact with transmission
Because my mécanique change the engine cooler yesterday now i have problem with overheating with transmission work with one gear the first one
I have a 2011 Ford Fusion. 3.0, 6 cylinder.
My fan will sometimes stay on for 20 to 30 minutes until it kills the battery. I have a new sensor but can't find the location so I can change it out. Videos or internet don't tell me a dang thing.
Can this cause idle surge, like every time i give it gas the idle drop and jumps to 1500rpm and stayed for couple second and back down to idle.
Thanks man for the informative video 😊
Very helpful, thanks
I have a 2014 Buick regal that'll turn on and sometimes it'll stay on and it'll idle okay and then bog down and shut off or sometimes I can drive it to the corner and then when I stop it'll turn off. What could it be? I've tried so many things and still doing it.
I’d have Honda accord 2020 sport the engine start/ stop button when I shut the car off button does not shuff off complete engine shut off but the button light stay on. Parking p showing in dashboard and no issue with parking or park the car can u help tell me why
On that last part “false reading” you mention if the engine is warm/hot and the needle on C now how bout when the engine is cold and the temp gauge needle is on H Same problem correct ?
Did you get this resolved? I have the same issue
likely the sensor then unless the gauge/wiring is bad (less likely) because we know the coolant should be cold when the engine is cold
Please i need your help..my car that's a Nissan Ad.. problem Fan its not running..
Check cooling family relay and fan switch
hi..my car overheat some time..one off 10 times of driving i smelled engine oil burning and then when i slow down and close ac its normal back..tomorrow i check the engine oil lower a bit..what cause this?
i have a rounalt clio 4 is overheating and i chang waterpump,thermostat and put headcarskert so what is the problem
Hi, I have 2012 Mercedes e350 and fan running high speed all the time, no code found, any idea please?
Hello hi,....My car is a zuzuki balino, earlier when driving the vehicle it misfires when the engine is hot.., after that when I scanned the vehicle, I changed the scam sensor and the oxygen sensor (which is in the middle of the silencer).. now the engine is working fine. It does, then it started in the morning and it misfires until the engine is warmed up.
As soon as it warms up, the car runs fine without any problems,...what's wrong with this? Please I hope you can give me the right advice, no black smoke or oil pygmies visible, is there good fuel consumption,..
Could be condensation affecting sensors in the morning or maybe the ignition coil might be cracked.
1:15 [1MZFE ENGINE] I changed my coolant temp sensor and didn’t do my radiator fan switch sensors an it kept overheating at idle … it would spit all my coolant into the reservoir…. Took me like 4 months of trying to figure it out … i guess when you change one thing , change the rest lol .
My temperature gauge it is not over heating but it is going a little low but not all the way low and then goes back up in the regular part then it will go a little low again lol do u think it’s my coolant temperature sensor too? Any ways imma have a mechanic replace my CTS, all 4 spark plugs, and refill my coolant, I’ll do those 3 don’t fix the issue then it’s probably a thermostat issue ? Damn I hate car repairs always costing money lol oh yea I do not have a check engine light no lights at all on dash what u think is my issue bro?
Mine first Everytime I turn my chevy cruze Lt 2014 It say engine reduce power and then traccion On after that start shaking the engine and Went I try acceleration It goes slow I press the gas pedal all the way and it drive slow and then it show in the dash AC Due too a high Engine temperature
2005 police crown vic ---- BRO I NEED HELP! been having overheating issues & replaced everything in the system. NOT overheating anymore but the radiator fan goes to high after only 5 mins of running. stays on high fan until shut off. replaced the radiator, water pump, CT sensor, HT sensor, thermostat (160), fresh coolant after 3 flushes. used a laser temp tool & highest reading on cyl or anywhere, is only 160 degrees. fan will be on HIGH with that LOW temp. CANT FIGURE IT OUT & NEED TO SELL!. NO ENGINE CODES.
It's probably Pressure Sensor in the AC, it can cause the fan to keep running full blast
I have everyone of these symptoms except over heating cause my truck doesn’t have an electric fan, but I went to take the plug off the sensor ant the whole top of the sensor come apart lol. Like apart in half 😂
What if the vehicle is not overheating but the temp gauge bounces up and down and the car thinks it's overheating?
I have a Toyota tundra 2006 4.0L and it use to stay below the middle of hot and cold. Now it is a little above the cold. It moves when I turn the key but very little. Just started today and I live in louisiana
I've got an '03 e85 3.0i roadster, just replaced the radiator and got the coolant burped and levels to the appropriate amount a few weeks ago. Now I'm over heating with no engine codes, my radiator fan won't kick on and its idling really rough (rpms bounce between 1k and 800 constantly). I'm thinking its a bad coolant temp sensor but I'm not sure which one to change as I believe there are at least 2 in the system. When facing the vehicle: there is one sensor that looks like it connects to the thermostat (which I changed the day after I did the radiator) the second sensor I believe is on the right side of the engine just above a few coolant hoses. After thinking about the symptoms I feel its probably the first sensor in the thermostat because my radiator fan won't kick on, but then there is the idle issue :/. Just looking for some outside opinions, thanks!!!
2005 PT Cruiser was overheating fan was not coming on replace fan and engine coolant sensor now fan comes on continuous does not overheat what temperature gauge does not register if I turn it off and back on it registers for 5 seconds what can I do please help
The coolant temperature sensor, does it affect the temperature of the heater inside the car?
HELL YEA
no
HI I RAN AN OBD2 SCANNER AND ITS SAYING EVERYTHINGS OKAE N THEN AFTDR THE SCANS DONE IT SHOWS ON THE SCREEN THAT MY EVAP SYSTEM FAILED.... WAT DOE S THAT MEAN ? N THEN I HAVE A LOUD HUMMING NOISE ON THE BELT SIDE OF MY 2018 SENTRA WATS THAT MEAN?
My coolant temperature connector (wire)is exposed the outer plastic has melted off will this cause my car to go on limp mode I cannot accelerate past 20mph
My bmw 2003 x5 e53 3.0 stay on all the times from morning first start wont shut off unless i turn off the car , i checked the realy and fan switch both good , what could be the problem ?
Note: My A/C not blowing cold although its fully charged i dont know if its realted to the fan being stuck on high .
My fan runs on high speed ? does not stop unless you never the car off. Can it be CTS ? BMW
I have the same problem on my 2003 x5 , did you find whats the problem ?
@@EARTHKEENING it was the water pump.
@@chipdiamond2628 wow thanks , did you have check engine light on ?
thank you your so clear about issues
I have a bad thermostat code, replaced it. But check engine light came back after 2 weeks. Cleared the code. 2 weeks later, it came back. Could it be a bad temp sensor? Both fans comes on when the AC is on (this is the only time my cooling fan will come on, otherwise it does not come on when temp is at normal range). Temp gauge is good, not overheating. Coolant was drained, bled and topped off.
Check connections. Might need to replace connector
@BruceWayne-sz3th honda pilot. But i got out fixed. Replaced both my ects
Dodge dart 2016 when gets to running temp coolant light comes on and gauge drops to cold while running. And ac/heater stops working. Any reason why. Plenty of fluids
All other gauges work
When it’s super hot outside, all the warning signs come on at the same time(NOT THE ENGINE LIGHT) when I start the car. I have to turn on the AC and let my car cool down for 5 minutes, afterwards I turn it off, then restart ignition, then all the warning signs are gone. Could it be a sensor thing. I drive a 22 sonata.
the engine/coolant is not hot (not possible) when you just started the car
My gauge inside shows temp lower then 1/2 mark. When finished driving car the front of car and hood extremely hot. Also losing coolant had radiator replaced tech said bad was 3 years old and still losing coolant. about 1/2 cup a month. Can smell coolant, The radiator fan runs when AC on never runs whe AC is off. I think the radiator super hot when car turned off and may leak coolant out of cap. Since fan never turns on without ac could sensor be bad? I don't think blown gasket, I thought maybe bad heater core. Had pressure checked was okay. Nothing in oil and no white smoke.
I am having same problem ...do u know what is so I can check my problem
Need help my temp gauge keeps moving up and down I don’t know what could it be the sensor the thermostat or the coolant housing
Check for air in the cooling system or a partially stuck closed thermostat
I have a 95 gmc k1500 that will start but will die. It will idle and then it will die. It will putter like it’s not getting enough gas or air. I changed the fuel pump and fuel filter. Thought it might be the maf sensor or the ect sensor. If you know what to do with this situation plz let me know.
Oh and no check engine light
I have no CEL on but my cooling fans constantly run when AC is on. They cut off as soon as AC is off.
Does it affect the ac ?
no
Well it does with my Alpha Romeo lol@@firstlast-pt5pp
@@CubanMofo - there are many ways the coolant sensor can be faulty - reads -40c ( disconnected ) or 130c+ (suggests engine stress) are two extreme which may cause the ac to stay off ( ac is not the concern then - cold/hot engine may not run or stall ) - stuck at say +50c or swing between 10c and 120c for example should not disable the ac - although rare, the computer might be the problem
Hi, I put nissan 2.7 diesal engine in f30 bmw .bm was auto matc now I change to manual first engine n20 was runing with computer box this new nissan engine is without computer box now I can't find the heat gauge wire in bm
I APPRECIATE YOUR INFORMATION, KEEP UP WITH YOUR AWESOME VIDEOS ,IT SURE HELPED ME GET A BETTER UNDERSTANDING ..TWO THUMBS UP AND IF I HAD ANOTHER, ID GIVE YOU THAT ONE UP ALSO.
Glad to help
Hey, I have a infinti q50 20’ with 56k miles. My temperature gauge for the past 2 days jumps up when I’m idling SOMETIMES then as soon as I accelerate it goes back to normal temperature. Doesn’t happen until I’m at an idle for at least 1 min. Smh what’s up
Hello. Check the radiator fan and make sure it's spinning.
My electronic temp gauge shows overheating, but my cluster gauge shows normal, but my car starts to lose excelleration and no code. I replaced the thermostat, but problem persist, any suggestions??
Heater hoses
Mine is the opposite read out saying engine coolant hot but gage barley moves.
Can someone tell me, my temperature gauge needle goes up fast as soon as I start the car, but it stays in the middle. I thought it was suppose to rise slowly. Any tips please
Could it also cause a p2196 code ?
is my 96 chevy silverado ok to drive without cooling temp sensor until i can fix it? I see one of the wires is messed up at connector
You have two senders one for the gage and one for the computer.
Gage is probably not a big deal
I have a 2015 F150 I have no leaking coolant but yet the truck runs hard after 10 minutes of driving . I have the water pump replaced and the thermostat replaced !!! so how is my truck running hot with water in the radiator? Someone please help me my wife is a schoolteacher and she really needs this truck.
good video buddy
Great video love and respect this
Helo sir I got thermometer sigh in my Hybrid Honda acord,what to do.please help
My coolant and oil temperature sensor are the same but I’m having a no start or like it wants to but doesn’t and I’m having codes for the oil sensor
What about when the cooling fans just stay on constantly?
No Coolant temp Code at all but overheating , im draining the radiator today to check and see if it’s clogged, but any suggestions?
get a cheap infrared thermometer and check the upper and lower coolant hose temps when engine in operating temp ( thermostat should open and no temp difference between the hoses) - if there is a difference, the thermostat is stuck closed ( therefore, overheating)
@@firstlast-pt5pp I just got a new housing and I'm going to be filling it with a coolant funnel kit
I have a 1996 Chevy Silverado K1500 Z71 w/5.7 350 Vortec , i just inherited it as one could say and its been a pain in the ass. To start with it had trouble starting at first, usually upon first start up it would catch mid start then almost die with 60% of the time it catching and starting but 40% of the time it sputtering off. The 2nd problem was the distributor/cam sensor adjustment, even though it is an EFI spider injection it still uses a distributor to fire (note its not actually a distributor but i don't know what its actually called and it isn't coil packs). After all that it still has issues but the man code it always throws is PO160. Another thing to not about that is it doesn't have CAT's on it, i live in Texas and the EPA can kiss my ass, but anyways atp A: either sell the pos while im still not fucked or B: install an intake manifold and carb as well as HEI distributor and some how mock up the old 4L60E.
Thank you very helpful
Ive replaced it 3 times on my 2015 tahoe 3 times and it fixes everything and then a few days later it starts acting up again. Any guesses what would cause the senson to fail multiple times??
dirty coolant. old coolant is extremely corrosive.