Ford 4.6, 5.4, and 6.8 Rear Main Seal Replacement.
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- Опубліковано 11 лип 2024
- In this video I show you how to replace any rear main seal in your 4.6, 5.4, or 6.8 V10 Ford Modular engine. All of these engines use the same seal, oil slinger, and aluminum cover. The procedure is exactly the same for all years. To change the seal you need to remove the transmission and transfer case if you have one. The seal is cheap and relatively easy to replace compared to removing the transmission. If you have an oil leak at the back of the engine chances are it is this rear main seal leaking or the oil pan gasket leaking.
Parts that I used in this video:
Seal: amzn.to/2ZeayBR
Oil Slinger: amzn.to/2X5DN75
RTV: amzn.to/2Lyt93x
Rear Main Seal Tool: amzn.to/3bGGH7E
Help support the channel buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Questions? Shoot me an email at repairgeek365@gmail.com
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user Repair Geek makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. Repair Geek shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by Repair Geek and therefore, Repair Geek does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge Repair Geek or anyone affiliated with Repair Geek, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. - Авто та транспорт
Parts that I used in this video:
Seal: amzn.to/2ZeayBR
Oil Slinger: amzn.to/2X5DN75
RTV: amzn.to/2Lyt93x
Rear Main Seal Tool: amzn.to/3bGGH7E
Help support the channel buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
My 2018 Raptor was just diagnosed with a rear main seal leak. This video is exactly what I needed to see. Thank you
You sir have earned another sub. Well done! Keep it up, I had to sub because I unintentionally watched multiple videos with the 4.6. For a good show, a like too.
Thanks.Timely video,my throw out bearing in my gt just started to make noise.
Very helpful for fixing my 97 Ford F-150 with a 4.6L Triton
Well done vid. Very informative. Thanks!
Thanks for this video. It was very helpful.
I am getting a used transmission put into my car today .... the mechanic is saying that my rear main seal is leaking ... hopefully he can get it fixed without costing me too much $$$$ ... now I understand what he has to do ... thanks man ...
Excellent presentation!👍
Excellent presentation!
awesome video and great camera work!
Just what I needed to see.
Excellent training techniques. Ty
Thanks for this video. I drive a Ford, none with these engines, but I still appreciate your explanation.
Great job Sir👍🏻
Thanks dude
You are a God!!! Thanks for the vid.
No, I'm just a guy in a garage but, thanks for watching lol.
Right on time!
Very good video on the oil slinger. It has always been a mystery how it is installed.
@Tom Smith yeah I have kind of the same question, at 2:50 into the video he pops something loose then at 2:54 to me it looks like he reaches up and pulls off the “oil slinger” is what I thought, then as the video goes on he put the cover and seal on and then he said the oil slinger goes on so I’m a little confused
I used to go through rear main seals. Finally had to switch brands
I saw somewhere else at the bottom two bolts coming from the oil pan are torque to 50 foot pounds, not 15. Can you confirm?
Great video, do you know what would happen if I think i pushed the real main seal too far back?
Thanks for the previous response just need to know if I need the shim with the tensioners? w engine code 2005 ford crown vic.
you have some of the best repair vids out there!
Thank you for this video can you let me know if you know what the round black rubber seal/gasket is to the left of the crankshaft?
The mail seal doesnt rotate, but the oil slinger does becasue the slinger has a tight fit onto the crank shaft. Is it OK if the back surface of the slinger is rubbing on the main seal or is there suppose to be a gap? When installing my two peices I taped on the slinger to seat it and it may have pushed onto the main seal. Thanks for your help, video was helpfull
Does the oil slinger sit flush with outside of the cover? Or is it recessed slightly?
The piece at 2:49 that comes off, is that part of the seal? Of more like a retaining ring?
What do you do in the event the drive shaft has a groove or is warn with an irregular (oval) shape?
Does the catalytic converter need to be taken out too, to get to the rear main seal on a 98 for explorer sport?
Hello,
I’m trying to get a oil slinger like the one you’ve posted above and I enter the fitment of vehicle (03 GT) and it says it does not fit. Any tips? Or help where I can get the correct one?
Why do you have a link to Permeated Ultra Black but you use something else that’s gray?
My housing in the only thing that looks like it seaping but not sure but can I just replace the gasket for that and not remove the seal from the cover
Your shop wouldn't by any chance be located somewhere in the southern California area, would it? I have an 01' Excursion with 6.8L V10. I want the Rear Main Seal as well as the Oil Pan replaced. Well done vid. 👍
The seal u have is. Teflon seal so no oil is imused and the tool is for help sliding it over and they are all 2 piece seals now. They have the dust lip installed on seal so oil slinger isnt required
Does this apply to the 4.2 Manuel
Hi I have a 1992 grand mercury marquis LS how much will it cost for repair main seal oil pan gasket front crank seal transmission leaks 125,000 miles
Hey man just wanted to know is this the reason why all my tranny fluid leaked out of the plastic cap on the bottom of the tranny on my 2008 5.4l AWD F 150?
I decided to replace the rear main seal on my Crown Vic while I had the transmission out, since the car's going on 17 years old. I uninstalled the rear main seal retainer plate from the engine block, and was surprised to find no trace of RTV or anything else that obviously passes as sealant between the two parts. Just bright shiny aluminum on the plate, and an extremely thin yellowish film of what looked like maybe dried up motor oil on the engine block. How the engine was not profusely pissing fluid from the back is beyond me. I can't tell for sure if the rear main seal or oil slinger had previously been replaced, since they were both Ford OEM parts. It might explain why the previous owner had been filling the engine with 10W-40 (based on a some maintenance records that were in the glove box) instead of the mfg recommended 5W-20, in an attempt to slow a leak? Weird, right?
Anyway, pretty easy job if you've already got the transmission out of the way. Thanks for the video.
Just brought our 04 mustang to the shop today because I noticed the rear main possibly starting to leak. The mechanics said it's only "sweating" and as a friend he said he wouldn't put that kind of money into the car right now- it's 22 hours of labor, so in the end it's like 3 grand 😆 so I'm just gonna be monitoring oil levels, but at least it's not bad yet, sucks how much it costs.
Getting a subaru head gasket done, is about the same price.
22 hours seems awfully high.
I hope you found a new mechanic, just did this on my 2001 Ford mustang cobra, it's not 22 hours even for a rookie with right tools lol
Hello, after installing seal with plastic, did you just pull that plastic out? Without disturbing the seal? Thanks
Yes exactly.
This question is related to an older video, 2005 crown VIC 4.6 2v . is it ok to replace the non-ratchiting tensioners with the older ratcheting type?
Yes those will work fine. They usually hold up better as well.
Thanks! I was worried about the ratchet keeping too much tension as I have read but I believe that's just for the race cars. btw, great timing chain video!
What do you do with the plastic sleeve after you get everything in place? Every video I’ve watched says nothing about the plastic sleeve. Do you leave it in there? How do you get it out without messing up the seal?
Just pull it out.
Question. Can I take the oil pan off of a 04 mustang mach 1 while doing this?
yes, but it may require some engine lifting.
my 03 gt has the same set up as the mach 1. it’ll require some wiggle room to come out
well, thanks for the video, but i mean.....once tranny is out, its smooth sailing.
another note, have all kind of figured out, that on those engines, mine if f150 5.4, do whatever BUT what ford recommends?
good work though man.
I’m working on my motor so I have a question at 2:50 into the video looks like you use a screwdriver and pop something loose, But then at 2:54 you reach up on the end of the crankshaft and you remove something off the end of the crankshaft,what was that item cause this point the rear cover and seal are already off the back of the motor, I thought toil slinger helps deflect oil off the ends of the rear main seal from the inside?
The cover came off. The seal stayed on the crank. I pried the old seal off with the screwdriver.
Wouldn't you have to lube or oil up the seal and plate hole first? I see others do lube but you don't in the video? Will putting in dry affect it badly is what I'm asking ig lol?
This Felpro seal that I'm using is designed to be put on dry. I've had no issues with this seal 18 months later.
@@RepairGeek I have to do my seal I think it's the issue. Oil coming out of the home in the bell housing. Is this something I can do on jackstands or do I form out the money and have a shop do it? I'm not even sure if its 100% the issue
Sure the difference I'm seals also one is teflon and one had a spring. The teflon is a better seal but not forgiving like the other one.
Why did you used Fel-pro seal instead Ford OEM?
@@PietriGuitars Thank you
Great video, this looks like a very expensive job if you want to be done by a mechanic.
Thanks. You show where the rear main seal leaks between the rear of the oil pan and front of the bell housing. I have oil on the 2 rear bolt heads of the pan and the lip of the pan. However when I pull the inspection cover off the bell housing I don't see oil inside the bell housing, nor does the Flywheel have oil on it. DO YOU SEE Oil inside the Bell Housing when the Rear Main Seal is Leaking??? Which makes me believe my oil leak is forward of the rear of the oil pan. I do see oil on the air conditioner compressor rear lower mounting bolt. I changed the Oil Filter Adapter and Gasket, and the Oil Pan Gasket and still see oil leak. Plan to do the timing chain job and rocker followers, so maybe the timing cover gasket, valve cover gasket or crankshaft sensor is leaking?
Passenger valve cover gasket leakage is common on the 5.4
thank you, I am hoping that is it, will fix when I do the timing chains.@@sbramel93
How much would a dealer charge me to do this?
The trans gotta come out and that alone will be 1000 or more in labor
Where are you located,I need that work done on 04 mach1
Akron ohio
Don't have the ability to tackle this in my own house so I paid to have somebody do it. It's come back twice with the same oil leak. I don't know why but I'm going to give them one more chance and then take it to the dealership if it's not done correctly. The dealership fees will obviously be paid by the first shop one way or another.
How much did u increase your torque value with that length extension?
Thats a old wives tale. Extensions on impacts reduce torque. If you are applying a CONSTANT torque with your hand you get 100% transmission of torque. There are video demonstrations of this on UA-cam. Thanks for watching.
Is this all so for the 5.0 because that's what's in all mustangs
No. 1996-2010 model V8 cars had 4.6s or 5.4s
Man I just discovered I have to do this
Same here, thought about taking it to a shop. Then I heard the price and was like yeah time to do some research 😅😅
Find someone with a lift
Same process for automatic 2001 4.6 mustang? Thank you in advance!
He literally just said it works with all modular motors. Did you not watch the video?
Why do you think a rear main seal would leak on a 17 year old e250 4.6 with only 107,000 miles?
It's 17.
@@RepairGeek let me rephrase that. What's the average mileage/year a main seal on a ford modular engine starts to leak?
If you have the transmission out, just replace it. It's 17 years old. If it's not leaking don't worry about it until it does.
Ugghhh! looks like a pain. I'm replacing my clutch at 59k miles and if that joker ain't leaking then i'm not doing it. I could be dead before i put another 60k miles on this car.
Only 89 inch pounds?! That’s crazy
Dear Bro....I'm pretty sure that so called Plate ! Is called the rear seal retainer but who knows ..maybe they changed it to the plate ....and finally you never said a single word about the pitfalls of installing ANY seal dry so we never witnessed you lubricating the Crank hub or the new seal and if you do install it dry you will shred that seal the moment you turn the key ..And you never bothered to say a word ...
That should have been specified but you are also leaving out that PTFE seals need to be installed dry, they will leak almost immediately if you lube them.
What the heck torque the housing first No Sir eave the casing loose install the seal then torque you read wrong
3 years later... No leaks.
Mahle seal is of much better quality
Nearly 4 years later... No leaks yet.
U might as well get red of this mustang Gt
And then you cant use your truck for 3 days while the rtv cures.
Cure time is only 24 hours. It's mostly dry by the time you get the trans back in realistically.
@@RepairGeek I was being a little sarcastic lol. Any idea what this would cost and do you have to drain the tranny fluid. I wish you would of showed removing the tranny.
@@chriss4365 without knowing the book time for labor I'm not sure. Price will vary by application. A truck with a transfer case will be priced different than a stick shift. I just depends.
@@RepairGeek its a 97 f150 4.6 v8 similar to this in the video.
nice video man... I have a 06 mustang gt 5 speed and my seal is leaking what is a fair price to repair it
4.6 and 5.4 are V8 engines not V10
Yes, I'm sure he was aware. He just didnt say v8 after every liter designation because the 4.6, 5.4, and 6.2 all are modular engines that use the same seal.
@@foytsgarage2085 It's the way he said it. He should have reworded it better.
I have a 5.4 V10
V8 dude not a v10
he knows
Facial hair
I've given up on shaving until the Covid quarantine is over haha.
Why are you saying v10? What mustang is a v10 🤣🤣🤣
He never said there was. Pay attention. He's talking about the various sizes of modular engines from ford.