Links to the tools and parts required to rebuild a differential: Calipers: amzn.to/48nlVr7 Dial Indicator: amzn.to/3utnAxB Beam Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3UODXzz Pinion Flange Holding Tool: amzn.to/3SZ2NLF Bearing Splitter: amzn.to/4bIN1f2 Bearing/Seal Drivers: amzn.to/3uCYrAs Hot Plate: amzn.to/3uuUu0Q Shim Drivers: amzn.to/48j5KLp Press: amzn.to/3T5JYq9 Chemicals: Retaining Compound: amzn.to/3SZpbEI Thread Locker: amzn.to/48kF7pl RTV: amzn.to/3OLwaP9 Degreaser: amzn.to/3uBzhlG Parts used in this Ford 8.8 build: Ford Performance 4.10 Gears: amzn.to/49EJrRk Ford Performance Install Kit: amzn.to/3I3hR4w Torsen T2R Differential: amzn.to/3SKyXsQ Moser 31 spline Axles: amzn.to/3I4DYaI Crush Sleeve Eliminator Kit: amzn.to/49AKSAr My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Thank you so much for this man. I'm wanting to put 4.56s on my 14 5.0 to compensate for 33's. I was worried about setting everything up because I've never done it before but after watching this it looks relatively easy. Also helps im a machinist so it clicks pretty well for me
I love this video. I'm glad I kept on searching. Truly the basics as I knew nothing about a differential. But, I never take my vehicle to a shop. I figure it out myself and do the repairs like I have done for years. But this munka sunka has got my brain all twisted up. I have a 2012 Jeep Wrangler. I took it apart because of the racket is was making. I found it needs new carrier bearings. All good, I have got it totally broken down. I've got new bearings and grabbed a small variety of shims. Because her is where my dilemma starts. On the passenger carrier 1 thick shim and 1 thin shim was used. No big deal. On the drivers side instead of any thick shim. The were 8 thin shims that when i removed the cover the shims were sticking down about an inch to an inch and a quarter and of course destroyed. Also the drivers side axel was sticking in the spider gear so far that it was up against the spider gear rod with some force. I looked at the passenger side and i didn't see the spline of the axel at all. When i pulled the bearings off the carrier 1 thin something like a shim was behind the bearing. Just that one bearing. I haven't seen any video at all where there is a shim behind the bearing. If you could give me a little insight to these little issues. I would so greatly appreciate it. It's a dana 44 by the way. Thank you for your time.
Great video. I am in the process of rebuilding the front differential of my ‘77 FJ40 LandCruiser. This explains much of what I saw on other channels but which was not explained in depth. Great video. Appreciate you taking the time to go over everything in so much detail.
When you make a large increase in the OD of the tires, the powertrain isn't the only thing that loses leverage. So after you change final drive ratio to regain lost acceleration leverage, you might want to allow more following distance in traffic if you didn't make any brake upgrades to compensate for the leverage the brakes also lost.
Regarding speed vs ratios. Tremec has an online gearing calculator. Enter tire size, transmission gear ratios, final drive ratio, and engine rpm, and the calculator will give vehicle speed at the specified rpm for each transmission gear. Example, my 2014 F150 with 3.31:1 final gears on 35x12.5's in 6th gear at redline would mathematically hit 238mph in the vacuum of space. I went with 4.56:1 gears.
Thanks for the insight. I recently had a pinion gear "rub into" and carve out the differential case, but it would only grind on deceleration. Still moves, if you don't coast it doesn't make noise. It's a 1999 chevy suburban that I will most likely be completely replacing the rear end, but I am very curious, what do you think failed to cause this? Been watching all your videos on this and they are gold, thank you.
I've got a 2005 GMC Yukon 5.3L 4x4 with 234,000 miles, all stock. It makes a clicking noise that I can usually only hear with windows down and driving next to something like a wall or tall curb. It only does it when applying gas though, and in a forward gear. I have examined the u-joints and driveshafts and they look fine and tight. It does look original. Do you think this is the issue? Thanks!
Can crush collar sleeve with shims change pinion depth? First time and everything feels to tight. I think I need to add another shim on the crush collar sleeve. I'm at 20 but it feels just a tad tight with backlash 8 9.
9.51minute - it is mentioned as lower ratio....i think , it is higher gear ratio.. in higher ratio, torque and acceleration will achieve.. can you clarify
Its not, ive been looking at these videos for days and days trying to figure it out and suddenly it clicked for me. It will for you too just keep watching them. It helps to understand what each gear does and that will serve as a hood base to learn stuff like this
You need to start with a good inspection, the factory service manual, a few special tools, a full kit of new parts, and a clean workspace. You'd be surprised what you could do but in most cases mechanics are the people who do this themselves. In the interest of saving time though take it to a shop since sometimes when you think you can swim you find in the depths of the sea you can sink.
Links to the tools and parts required to rebuild a differential:
Calipers: amzn.to/48nlVr7
Dial Indicator: amzn.to/3utnAxB
Beam Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3UODXzz
Pinion Flange Holding Tool: amzn.to/3SZ2NLF
Bearing Splitter: amzn.to/4bIN1f2
Bearing/Seal Drivers: amzn.to/3uCYrAs
Hot Plate: amzn.to/3uuUu0Q
Shim Drivers: amzn.to/48j5KLp
Press: amzn.to/3T5JYq9
Chemicals:
Retaining Compound: amzn.to/3SZpbEI
Thread Locker: amzn.to/48kF7pl
RTV: amzn.to/3OLwaP9
Degreaser: amzn.to/3uBzhlG
Parts used in this Ford 8.8 build:
Ford Performance 4.10 Gears: amzn.to/49EJrRk
Ford Performance Install Kit: amzn.to/3I3hR4w
Torsen T2R Differential: amzn.to/3SKyXsQ
Moser 31 spline Axles: amzn.to/3I4DYaI
Crush Sleeve Eliminator Kit: amzn.to/49AKSAr
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
One of, if not THE clearest explanation of a differential I've seen. Great job!!
Thank you for a great video. 😃 You explain very well, and it is easy to understand! 👍 I really like that you link to tools and parts😃
Absolutely the best video on this subject I have seen! Clear, concise, and to the point. Good job!
Very well explained , where did you gain your knowledge from ? Your a lucky guy your partner gives you the freedom to pursue your passions .
I talk about it here: ua-cam.com/video/F2o3RYWBeAI/v-deo.htmlsi=SwgrQe7nxrXJimi1&t=922
Thank you so much for this man. I'm wanting to put 4.56s on my 14 5.0 to compensate for 33's. I was worried about setting everything up because I've never done it before but after watching this it looks relatively easy. Also helps im a machinist so it clicks pretty well for me
I love this video. I'm glad I kept on searching. Truly the basics as I knew nothing about a differential. But, I never take my vehicle to a shop. I figure it out myself and do the repairs like I have done for years. But this munka sunka has got my brain all twisted up.
I have a 2012 Jeep Wrangler. I took it apart because of the racket is was making. I found it needs new carrier bearings. All good, I have got it totally broken down. I've got new bearings and grabbed a small variety of shims. Because her is where my dilemma starts. On the passenger carrier 1 thick shim and 1 thin shim was used. No big deal. On the drivers side instead of any thick shim. The were 8 thin shims that when i removed the cover the shims were sticking down about an inch to an inch and a quarter and of course destroyed. Also the drivers side axel was sticking in the spider gear so far that it was up against the spider gear rod with some force. I looked at the passenger side and i didn't see the spline of the axel at all. When i pulled the bearings off the carrier 1 thin something like a shim was behind the bearing. Just that one bearing. I haven't seen any video at all where there is a shim behind the bearing. If you could give me a little insight to these little issues. I would so greatly appreciate it. It's a dana 44 by the way. Thank you for your time.
Great video. I am in the process of rebuilding the front differential of my ‘77 FJ40 LandCruiser. This explains much of what I saw on other channels but which was not explained in depth. Great video. Appreciate you taking the time to go over everything in so much detail.
Great video, your insight is spot on.
Thanks for sharing.
Awesome videos! I've gone from knowing hardly anything to a heaps better understanding thanks to you.
This is a great explanation for a beginner. Thank you for helping me.
When you make a large increase in the OD of the tires, the powertrain isn't the only thing that loses leverage. So after you change final drive ratio to regain lost acceleration leverage, you might want to allow more following distance in traffic if you didn't make any brake upgrades to compensate for the leverage the brakes also lost.
This is so very well explained. Good job, well done! Very helpful😊
❤❤❤❤Great information
Great stuff. You really know your stuff.
Are you still recommending "Surface Shield" as the best of the three for underbody protection in our lovely upper Midwest region????
Yep.
Great explanation
Lower number of pinon gear teeth = Higher gear ratio = faster acceleration
Good video importing one well done
Good information here.
Regarding speed vs ratios. Tremec has an online gearing calculator. Enter tire size, transmission gear ratios, final drive ratio, and engine rpm, and the calculator will give vehicle speed at the specified rpm for each transmission gear. Example, my 2014 F150 with 3.31:1 final gears on 35x12.5's in 6th gear at redline would mathematically hit 238mph in the vacuum of space. I went with 4.56:1 gears.
Fantastic video
Thanks for the insight. I recently had a pinion gear "rub into" and carve out the differential case, but it would only grind on deceleration. Still moves, if you don't coast it doesn't make noise. It's a 1999 chevy suburban that I will most likely be completely replacing the rear end, but I am very curious, what do you think failed to cause this? Been watching all your videos on this and they are gold, thank you.
I've got a 2005 GMC Yukon 5.3L 4x4 with 234,000 miles, all stock. It makes a clicking noise that I can usually only hear with windows down and driving next to something like a wall or tall curb.
It only does it when applying gas though, and in a forward gear.
I have examined the u-joints and driveshafts and they look fine and tight. It does look original.
Do you think this is the issue? Thanks!
Great video
Tanks good explination
That solves that question. I think I will take it to a mechanic now 😂
Can crush collar sleeve with shims change pinion depth? First time and everything feels to tight. I think I need to add another shim on the crush collar sleeve. I'm at 20 but it feels just a tad tight with backlash 8 9.
If I am just changing pinion and carrier bearings but keeping the same gears, shouldn't I be able to reuse the original pinion shim?
Yes.
9.51minute - it is mentioned as lower ratio....i think , it is higher gear ratio.. in higher ratio, torque and acceleration will achieve.. can you clarify
im about to replace bearings on my W164 mercedes
Ok I get it, what driveability issues will all of this cause
Veryy
Very
Nope! Nevermind!
This is fucking impossible
Its not, ive been looking at these videos for days and days trying to figure it out and suddenly it clicked for me. It will for you too just keep watching them. It helps to understand what each gear does and that will serve as a hood base to learn stuff like this
Fairly easy, once you grasp the concept. It’s just nuts and bolts, and understanding what they do.
You need to start with a good inspection, the factory service manual, a few special tools, a full kit of new parts, and a clean workspace. You'd be surprised what you could do but in most cases mechanics are the people who do this themselves. In the interest of saving time though take it to a shop since sometimes when you think you can swim you find in the depths of the sea you can sink.
What….