Ford & Dana Axles Pinion Seal Replacement: Tricks of the Trade
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2024
- Below is a list of parts and tools used to repair this vehicle:
Ford Rear pinion seal I use 9.75" axle-(check fitment guide)
www.amazon.com/...
2 Jaw Puller for removing the pinion flange-
www.amazon.com/...
12pt 12mm Universal Impact socket-
www.amazon.com/...
Medium strength thread locker-
www.amazon.com/...
Motorcraft 75w-140 Axle Lubricant-
www.amazon.com/...
Fluid transfer pump I use-
www.amazon.com/...
Motorcraft XL-3 to be used if adding more than 1qt of gear oil-
www.amazon.com/...
High temp thread sealant for plug-
www.amazon.com/...
BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
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Dude, you have no idea how much we appreciate you. You're absolutely awesome. I hope that puts a 😊 on your face.
Thank you! Thanks to your video, this 51-year-old woman was able to change her first rear pinion seal. No more dripping under the differential, and seems to be driving fine.
this 41 year old is about to do it
Maria Barahona #Icepips you can do it! My repair is still holding just fine!
LP pp
LP pp
@@mombux awesome 👍🏼
The one thing I really like a lot was your technique on CLEAN. I was a line mechanic for a long time and I've seen some other mechanics not do a clean job as you did and there were come backs. You have a good work ethic and I want to thank you for that.
I am a retired mechanic in Australia. I have seen many vehicle repair clips out of America however, I have never seen anyone as though as you, it reminds me of how I was taught many years ago. Keep up the good work. Regards Bill Caddy, Bundaberg, Queensland, Australia.
+Bill Caddy Thanks!
oops I have never marked the flange of the drive shaft , never had any problems
He could’ve checked preload and at least used a new crush sleeve for the $2.50 and tightened it to the old preload instead of depending on threadlock to keep an old used $5 nut in place. Maybe some sealant on the splines of the pinion. A lot of video but left out the important parts.
Mark Warner it helps keep the original balancing intact. I've seen it cause Probs where there's a lot of balancing weights on the driveshaft.
@@FordTechMakuloco Can you please let me know how much you charge to repair the rear pinion on my 2004 Ford Explorer XLT? You are very thorough, hard to find that anymore. Way to Go.
This video is Timeless! Well spoken with clear and concise instructions. Unobstructed camera views. A masterpiece!
This is the 2 or 3 time watching this video and just realized that you used two different vehicles.
Thank you for the video. Now I know I can replace the bearing and seal without removing the gears.
It's the same vehicle throughout. He just put a new drive shaft on. At 25:05 he mentions this.
i always use a metal scribe to mark my pinion nut and flanges because of what you just did, always found myself cleaning my paint marks off! Great video!
+Random GearHead I rely mainly on the thread count and feel
yeah, I bought a nice dial type torque wrench and when I started out would use it. while rotating the pinion I tried to watch the gauge, didn't take long to learn a faster and better way. I do use when i set up new rear ends for the proper drag.
I'm glad to see someone as particular and clean while doing certain jobs as I am.
Brian i just wanted to say thank you for all the professional level educational step by step videos. You really do help us Ford owners save alot and learn alot at the same time. Thank you , Thank you!😊
Just used your video as a guide to replace the pinion seal on a Dana 80 diff on our RV. Not done anything like this before but your video is very clear and informative and made it an easy job 👍
Awesome!!
If the yoke is scored you can use a thing called a SKF Speedi-Sleeve to slip over it and make a nice smooth interface to the new pinion seal. My old TJ had score marks and this was a way to fix it without replacing the yoke. Nice video !
Hi, great video, if the rear end has a vent tube and fitting, might want to check to make sure that's not plugged.
I just changed my complete driveshaft to an aftermarket one with greasable u-joints from CCI Driveline in Casco MI, shipped right to my door in Louisiana, thanks to the nightmare known as staked in U-Joints that are $80 bucks a piece by themselves for the replacements with shims. Never mind the headache of having to fight with this staked in joint, one wonders if things don't go perfect if that stock shaft with shimmed joints would ever be balanced. The joints were still okay after 15 years just starting to squeal enough for me to worry about ruining this pinion seal which is still good. When I was swapping the driveshaft I noticed I was able to get a flathead screwdriver in one of the 2 interior holes to pry it off without having to hammer at all. Note the 2 small holes at 7:17 nearest to the seal.
Remember to ALWAYS check the vent. Lots of times, the vent gets clogged, and the diff can't vent, and the oil finds the weakest link; pinion seal or axle seals, to vent the pressure inside the diff.
Where is the vent?
@@ShopGoatVentures on top of the diff, at one side or the other
@@ShopGoatVentures what kind of vehicle?
@A NEW MINDSET what kind of vehicle?
@@jvm3753 found it, thx
Strong work. Now look at you with your own shop and multiple lifts. Keep grinding!
First time viewer seeking to learn more about what I pay for in various repairs. Your detailed descriptions & excellent camera work make for excellent viewing & learning. Added to that, like a good chef who keeps chopping blocks clean, your careful consideration for clean parts as your replace things is a helpful lesson. Great, informative job. Many thanks!
Pol
Thank you so much for this excellent video. I did this to my F150 yesterday and would never have tried it myself if I didn’t see you do it. FYI...instead of buying that expensive Ford seal installer I used a short piece of 4” PVC pipe and it worked perfectly. I did grease the spring in first though. Thanks again.
Aloha FT Makuloco, I just wanted to thank so much for sharing your knowledge unselfishly with the world. I have a '06 F250 4x4 and a 4x2. And though I have the complete volume of the factory manuals, without seeing or hearing some of your tips wouldn't give me the confidence to tackle most of the work myself. Your videos are clear, well shot w/good lighting, and comprehensive to understand. You are a gifted teacher and technician, just wished you were in Hawaii and on island. LOL. Please keep up the awesome work. (It shows that you enjoy your profession.) By the way, realizing an unbalanced driveshaft can cause vibration and lead to problems, like you said in this vid, what is your opinion on a 1-piece driveshaft? My 4x4 is lifted 6" and the 2-piece driveshaft looks straight and shimmed at the carry point. But the universals and the shafts are a bit rusty. I'm just wondering if to order stock or go with a 1-piece. I appreciate you, brother. Blessings.
Wow Brian lays on a concrete floor no pad and kneels on a concrete floor too. 1 tough guy ! 💪
Thanks great video , thanks for taking the time to do these videos, and for all the help and advise you have giving use out here in the back yard Mechanic World .
I just picked up an 06 fx4 and i will probably tweak the algorithm learning from your videos. Thanks in advance
Makuloco, maybe buy a lift? Great videos as always. Also Ford recommends using a new pinion nut, but I am pretty sure you knew that already.
Appreciate the video just put a new pinion seal and U-joints in a 2001 F-150. Everything went smooth except for the easiest part, the retaining clips on the u-joints. I couldn't get them in. Long story short I hopped on the internet and found out that a lot of people were having same problem. The solution, grind down the clips until they fit. Not to worry about strength they were easily twice as thick as the originals. Thanks again without this video I would never have attempted saved me some nice cash.
In Wisconsin here I call thread sealant Rust. it's only a matter of a winter and them threads seal up nice. lol
Thread sealant seems to help prevent rust in some spots.
This is my mantra
Even a Ford technician uses Mopar rust penetrant! That and Kroil are my two favorite rust penetrants out of everything I’ve used. Does Ford have their own rust penetrant? Marking the pinion nut and counting the threads on the pinion is a new tip I learned from your video! Thank you for all the tips!
Stinks working on your back doesn't it. It kills my neck afterwards but its all I've ever known with my vehicles. Thanks for the great vid. I'm going to tackle this exact job in a few weeks
+shantor100 I don't mind it.
FordTechMakuloco What is the loud clunk transmission drop noise somewhere from the rear end of driveshaft when slowing down? Noticed it happens in 4wd especially. I put 4wd hub deleted on yesterday as I just bought the truck used and it had 4wd problems as well. The light doesn’t come on but seems to be working fine in 4l and 4h but still have it up on the lift so not sure yet
This video was absolutely amazing and the ONLY one that I could find that actually made sense.
The step by step was easy to follow, the tips and tricks were spot on. After reading so many reddit horror stories I was ready to bring it to the shop.
This right here is the reason I didn't!! Thank you
Your Videos are spot on. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I had an 07 mustang I put a 4.10 ring and pinion in and I remember the worst part was puttin the pinion nut back on and setting the preload. I took a 6 foot long pipe and drilled some holes so that the flange bolts held it in place and then had to use a breaker bar and a piece of pipe with the diff out of the car and then tighten that SOB down. It had a crush washer. Its really an art you just have to have a feel for. When it got close even an eighth of a turn could make you go over!!!
Very good step by step video!
One of the best mechanics I've ever seen, if not the best!! Thanks brotha
Personally I would normally replace the crush sleeve and outer bearing/race doing a pinion seal (gets damaged during the removal of the pinion gear). But it would be a good idea to measure the preload using an in-lb wrench before and after if your not replacing the crush sleeve. The carrier will add to the reading (about 2 to 4 in-lbs), but at least you have a way to verify that the preload is still within reason. Otherwise its just a guess.
The sleeve and outer bearing/race always get damaged during removal of the pinion seal? How would you measure the preload? Torque wrench? And would you also torque down the preload? What is preload? Do you then load?
@@briana8308 I have sets of checking bearings that are a loose press-fit for setting up the rear. The bearings are fairly tight tolerance so there's no real variability on the final measurements. Basically the bearings can be removed/installed as needed when setting up the pinion depth. Final installation is then tightening the pinion nut with a large breaker bar and measuring the preload with a small in-lb. beam wrench as I go. I think Matco might still sell them. After that just a final check of the pattern to be sure all is well. But yes when driving out the pinion the front bearing can cause false-brinelling on the race from the impacts since its a press fit. Best to just replace them as a matter of course rather than try to reuse.
Agreed, a new crush sleeve as well as a before and after pinion+carrier preload measurement, plus replacing the pinion nut are all ways to do it right. I cringed when he didn’t check any preload and just hammered away on the pinion nut. If it’s right, he’s lucky.
Always representing Milwaukee in a subtle way.
I like it.
if I forgot to measure and mark for preload, what's the correct way to put it back to the right preload?
you're video is awesome, gave many more tips than the how to I used.
Troy Kent Shafer II did you ever get a answer for this question I did the same thing
omar bynum the answer was, the crush sleeve has already been crushed. you have to tighten it down and judge by turning the wheels. that's what I did. been driving on it since I made that comment. retired mechanic confirmed that's the only way you can... or buy new crush sleeve and torque to spec.
Great tutorial. This ought to help tremendously when I go to change the pinion seal on my Sterling 10.25.
What was the point of counting the threads and marking the nut position if you didnt reference it when putting it back together?
Sweet. Just got a 2 jaw flange puller since I can't ever find the Ford kit in the shop. Someone usually has it for a while or put back in the wrong spot. Only 782 specialty tools in red boxes to look at but I'm excited to use it. I got a front pinion seal on a 13 f350 to do and this should be about on par.
also need to ck the vent tube for any obstructions as well.
+J yup I've seen that
Great video. Lights, close ups, content, and good delivery. Damn I can do this now.
...and you did while lying on the garage floor like most of have to do it! thanks and well done as usual.
My dad is gonna help me do this tommorow on my crown vic and we have nowhere else to do it but in a gravelly alley lmao so it's nice to see that I can be done without using a lift like every other video
Clear, concise and easy to follow -PERFECT! Exactly what I was looking for. I'm loving your attention to detail and the sense that "neatness counts". You make the "right way" obvious, sir. My sincere thanks for taking the time to post the vid.
Why not use a shaft protector when using a puller? When You have to use a power tool to pull all the more reason in My opinion. I totally admire this wrenchman and have much to appreciate all He has taught to Us. Just a notion
THANK YOU FOR LETTING ME TAG ALONG WITH YOU & TRYING TO LEARN NEW THINGS ABOUT MY TRUCK ! BE SAFE ! HAVE FUN ! GOD BLESS YOU ALWAYS ON YOUR JOURNEYS ! ENJOYED !
Do you recommend using some sealer on the outside of the seal when installing it or no? Thanks for taking the time to make these videos!
No, if you buy a quality seal like the one shown in the video it already has a sealant bead around it.
Thank you for this video! Greatly helped me complete this job over the weekend. One note, the OTC 1022 puller in your description did not work for me to pull the flange off as the width was not enough to stay clamped when using the tool, so I rented one from NAPA which worked perfectly. Other than that, everything went great due to this perfectly exampled video.
How come you re-installed the badly pitted bearing and not replaced it with a new one? You said the bearing was making noise...
I have the same concern and I figure it's because the race is probably just as pitted. Replacing the race would require pushing it out from the other side, which requires gutting the diff. It makes no sense to put in a new bearing into a pitted race? Unless the race can be removed from the same side, which I doubt..... If the bearing is pitted, the race is probably just as bad since they ride on eachother.
I assumed the inserted picture of a pitted bearing was not the actual bearing that was in that truck. He just showed a bad pitted one for reference.
He mentioned that it wasn't being rebuilt "yet" so I think that's in the plans. Probably a customer money or time issue. When he replaces that bearing and race MOST likely the other bearings will be pitted too and that would call for all new bearings, seals, and possibly ring and pinion gears and more in a worse case. Makes sense to change the bearing when they plan on doing the rebuild.
@@Ashroyer86 Yep, he mentioned at 34:35 it was a cost issue and he'd already done a bunch to the truck on this particular job.
Cool, I need to do this to my 2000 Ranger this weekend. Thanks buddy for your video.
Do you have plans of installing a lift some day? obviously you wont be able to raise it too high, or have the most room for that part haha. But just curious, do you have any intentions of installing one someday?
+joshua medlin A mid rise lift has crossed my mind for shorter wheel base cars and trucks. I can move the door opener to the side of the garage and I have pretty high ceilings in the garage 10ft or so.
I usually don't subscribe to people but sir you are GOAT!
I have used a large 3/4" drive socket for a seal installer .
God bless
Wyr
It is great to see that you are still able to do excellent work without a lift. thank you!
Great videos my brother. One of my favorite technicians in UA-cam. There are many and respect to those such as yourself. Always detailed and specific explanation to help understanding. Thank thank you.
never use an impact wrench on pinion flange ruins the brearings
Why??? Does that go for removing and installing?? Thx
This video was huge in helping me change my opinion seal out. Thank you!
My opinion seal is broken. My opinion keeps spilling out all over the place.
I just replaced pinion seal on my 1994 f150. Your video helped out alot!! Thanks!
I've got a leak in the rear differential seal on my 2002 F-250 Super Duty with 156,200 miles on it. I'm not sure if this video is identical, or applicable to the much larger 10.5" rear end in the Super Duty trucks?....It however points me in the right direction and helps me understand the procedure covered in my shop manual. The tricks save a lot of time and foolproof a lot of potential errors going by the books methods. They detail a fairly large portion of setting the preload and re-torquing the nut and whatnot. Screw that shit!! I like the white paint marker method and counting your threads much better. Also having the axle on jack stands and in neutral to spin to get at the bolts straight on and when the time comes to have a helper apply the brakes is a genius trick and sure bet time and frustration saver. I'm going to go ahead and replace my universal joints while I have the driveshaft out at the same time. I'm already very familiar with that and marking everything on your yokes so it goes back the exact same way.....using a 20 ton press and sockets or black pipe couplings to press the caps out or back in and whatnot. I've done U-joints quite a few times in various vehicles over the years. This damn rear seal scared me a bit though before watching this video. The book should explain an easier and goof-proof method such as yours instead of writing a whole chapter how to reset your preload, balancing issues and torquing etc...etc..
As always, thanks for the video. You are one of only a very select few on UA-cam whom I trust and really know what you are doing....I hate watching Earl and Ed the two retarded rednecks screw up their own vehicles....and lead others down the same amateur blunder filled path too!
From:
The licensed HVAC Technician who's been at it since I got out of the United States Marine Corps.
Semper Fi~
It's amazing. I've been watching you for years, and have done many of these, yet still manage to learn something new. Thanks Brian! 👍👍
In the south where dirt daubers are king to prevent a comeback check the diff vent tube for a restriction.
You were tired on the test drive.
This was a good one 👍
Thanks
Nice to see others dealing with these gloves splitting between the thumb and pointer finger, for no reason. I stopped buying these black gloves for this very reason. Now that's it's 2021, maybe I'll give them another shot.
Thanks for an informative video.
It looks like you had no issues with the flange/differential turning while you remove/install the pinion bolt but were able to use hand force to hold it still.
is it the same for the 3rd gen explorer front and rear axle
Thanks
+STEEVE DAVID Nicolas yes this same basic procedure applies to both independent and straight axles. 8.8 9.75 and even 10.25 axles on probably 30 plus years of ford axles.
+FordTechMakuloco thanks,how about the seal where we hook up the cv shaft
+STEEVE DAVID Nicolas Those either have c clips or retaining rings holding those in
Ok, thanks
Excellent videos!! Please keep them coming. I own 6 different Fords and your videos have helped me do a bunch of stuff without relying on trial and error. Just did my 08 California Special. I just used the old seal as the "special tool" to tap the new seal in. I flipped it around. I marked the pinion shaft, flange and driveline flange to put them back exactly where they were. You didn't show anything about pre-load. I take it this rear end you can just use an impact wrench? I just counted the threads, marked a line through everything with a paint pen and when put back together just took the line on the nut about an 1/8" past the line on the pinion shaft. So far, so good. No leaks and no noise.205,000 miles and still going strong. The Ford service manual said to take off the tires, calipers and brakes and use an Inch Pound Torque Wrench to set the preload. Really?Do you think I'll be o/k? Should I have tightened it more?
My differential is leaking...it looks like it is from the pinion. Thanks a million for this video.
I try to do all I can myself. I believe I can do it. Would you also replace the axle seals at the same time since there are 170k miles on the truck? Have changed the gear oil one time before just for maintenance sake about 50k miles back. Limited slip.
Ok...Really grateful for decent camera shots. Every once in a while you will mention doing something and it is not shown on the video nor the type of product...ie putting some grease on a part before installing or there was the thing of cleaning sealant when removing something but I don't recall sealant being put on something when putting in new parts.
I will watch it again about 50 times---lol---before tearing it up. Wish I had a second vehicle in case I need to run to town--20 mile round trip.
Jesus bless.
You mentioned several times about checking the backlash. The pinion nut only provides for pinion bearing preload. Adding or subtracting pinion shaft shims adjusts the backlash. I get you perhaps meant feel for pinion shaft end play and verify the free play is taken up. Perhaps you could have mentioned when you mark and count threads you are hoping to re-establish the proper bearing preload and perhaps checking it with an inch pound torque wrench. Perhaps in this case since a rebuild is required sometime in the near future you were not too concerned. great video as usual!! Thanks!
+Robert Kohut grabbing the pinion flange and getting a feel for the backlash is an old trick to see how seated the pinion bearings are. As you tighten up the nut the bearings seat and the slop is taken up and of course you can also "feel" for or get a sense of the bearing preload all at the same time. I mention several times the point of counting the threads and all these checks is to "reestablish the same preload in the end as we have now" I mention it at the very end after filling it also. Checking preload properly would require tires and brake discs to be removed at the very least and the axle shafts and carrier to be removed to test for the spec pinion preload. I only do this when new bearing and a collapsible spacer is being installed otherwise this is the tried and true method used by techs everywhere.
That's one of those gray area items. Another great video. Thanks keep them coming. Explorer videos always appreciated.
Had that spring pop off on a Rockwell diff a long tim ago. Used two picks with the 90 at one end to work it back on.
شــُـكـرً لــّـك :
،Thank you very much
Excellent instructions
Thank
you again.
Keep Up.
An Arab, Engineer &
QC. Lead Inspector.
DH and Jeddah.
Most informative and well made do it yourself video I have seen.
The best part of finishing a big job and everythings perfectly done is getting paid and starting the next one!
Thanks for the video. I need to do this to my 02 F250, so it looks straight forward. Again, thanks.
Great video I have to do mine....we replaced the u joints on my 250 and I let my son help. He didn’t tighten up the bolts they came loose, I had a lot of vibration. I checked and found the issue before it came out....I can’t blame him. I should have checked his work.....
Great video! Thanks for including the torque specs.
I loved the way you did the work I got to see how stuff works and gets fixed right THANKS
my Ranger has been through the works it had that done I sure hope they did it right .
Good Stuff, Great Tips👍🏿😀 2016 F250 XLT 6.2L Gas Flex Fuel 4W 4D (Stock)
Very professional and clear content..one of the best videos out here!
Killer tutorial!! Very detailed and informative.
Thank you so much for all your help ! Your videos are so easy to fallow along with 😊
Thank you! Excellent video. I did the seal swap today.
You explain things very well.
Great video! Full of info and it doesn't feel like I wasted my time watching unlike other peoples videos who make them just to be viewed for tiny fame. This guy actually doesn't waste your time watching oild drip out of a pan.
Thank you for the video. It was useful for my seal replacement. P. S. I highly approve of your selection of music. :)
Depending on your slip yoke, ive found a piece of 1 1/4" schedule 40 with a cap fits right into my transfer case output seal.
Its nice not to have all that fluid dripping into a pan.
Excellent video as always. It made me realize I can do it myself. Thanks.
I have a 2011 F150 so it goes without saying I use your channel a lot lol
I always have to hit my flange bolts with a torch for heat first to loosen the locktite and then the bolts remove easier.
great video love it! i have 2004 ford escape my seal is leaking also, so my question is how to you transfer the marks from the old drive shaft to the new drive shaft? Thank you for any help
Did you count the threads putting the nut back where it was before you removed it or does it matter
Muchas gracias tu vídeo me fue de gran ayuda hoy hice ese trabajo siguiendo tus indicaciones
Hola amigo, muy buen trabajo pero esto solo es algo por temporario. Si vas hacerlo correcto hay una manera differente y se cambian mas piezas y mas el liquido.
this was really helpful, thank you.
thank you for the info, you are a very clean mechanic
Questions for you, FTM:
1. If you find the front pinion bearing and/or race don’t look good, can you change them without pulling the pinion shaft out from behind? Specifically, the bearing race.
2. Did you use a new crush sleeve on this seal replacement job?
Thanks in advance.
Wondering why not just replace the bad u joint instead of the complete driveshaft.? Must have been the owners call.. Great video as always.. You communicate very well teaching and educating..
These have staked u-joints and the special kit cost almost $200 plus labor each joint, he needed both joints so I just sold him an entire new driveshaft from Ford at my cost instead.
Thanks for this. I believe I'm now ready to do my own.
Although you marked the rear flange wouldn't removing the Drive shaft from the transfer box 'possibly' cause the drive to be out of balance ?
Brian, thank you for this excellent video. You have helped me do so many procedures on my 2003 F-150 4x4 (294k miles) and I can't thank you enough. I replaced my pinion seal as I followed this video and everything went well. However, I have a howling noise coming from the rear end at certain speeds. Not a whining noise, but more of a howling or humming (not when I'm coasting). On tightening the pinion nut, I got it back exactly where it was, then went just a small touch more. My concern is that I may not have gone tight enough and hence the noise. Should I go a little tighter with the pinion nut? If so, how much.
Fantastic video. Detailed and complete.
Why not pulls the brake rotors and record preload with a torque wrench on the pinion nut?
Great tutorial work, lots of attention to detail.
So I messed up big. I didn’t count threads or mark the pinion nut. What can I do now? I can see 5 threads before the blue locktite starts. Also my bearing seems to be stuck. I wasn’t able to pull it out like the one in your video. I have a limited slip 5:33 9.75 with 300k on it. Thanks.
Thorough and precise. Well Done
Do you check your vent hose and the axel housing breather port for blockage when doing these? Sometimes I have found them to be clogged up with dirt and the pinion seal is the first to leak from too much pressure, at least on older models. Great video, just wamted to see if you see this issue or not.