The video cleared up the install for me.... Thanks for posting. I plan on putting the winch and air compressor on relays. I'll operate the relay with an upfitter switch. That way, you don't need to take up two switches for the heavy current. In fact, if you get a relay that is big enough, you could run the winch and compressor from just one relay. That would save an additional switch.
Glad it was helpful! That would be a big relay... winches can pull 600amps or more. Curious how you will like that setup. I've been running wireless winch setups since 2010. Been flawless and really flexible. We do carry a wired remote for back up tho. Thanks for sharing!
@@TruckCamper I currently have a Jeep JKRU with a Zeon 12 on it. I have it directly wired to the battery. In addition, I carry ARB Maximum Output Portable Compressor that connects directly to the battery when I need it. I have read a few stories where a winch burned up and took out the electrical system because the person could not get it disconnected quickly enough. A manual switch would help, but as a tech, I need to add complexity to it.... LOL
Was just wondering the other day how one wires to upfitter switches. Very informative. Plan on purchasing a super duty next spring/summer when more choices available at dealers.
Glad it was helpful. You might consider custom ordering one. Get the things you want and don't pay for extras. Our local dealer fleet manager was great. Plan for 3-4 months for delivery
@@TruckCamper I custom ordered my 2022 F-350 in August 2021, it finally arrived on Christmas Eve last year. They gave me $49K for my 2016 F-350, 6.7L, dually King Ranch with less than 33K miles on it. Now I'm waiting for the winch and trailer TPMS that were on the build sheet, to get here.
Great stuff! Thanks for this video. I bought a used F350 Diesel Dully and was wondering how to figure out if and how to use these! The diesel dual wheel F352 Super Duty Lariat was on the driver’s side close to the battery.
The location of the switch wires is dependant on what year truck you have. For the 2011-2016 trucks, the bundle of wires for the switches are on the drivers side just above and to the left of the brake pedal.
I just found my Switch wires under the hood today. MAN did they put a lot of electrical tape on that bundle of wires!! Getting the tape off was the hardest part. BTW, I like where you mounted the compressor. That gives me ideas.....
Expedition Truck Camper - it is a fantastic option, so much so that it’s a no brainer. It should really be standard equipment in my opinion. Especially for the minor cost that it is.
Check what the amp draw is for the LED light bar. Most can run straight from the "standard" amperage switches. That's how ours is setup. We have another video with all our lighting (browse posted videos). Thanks!
@@TruckCamper they make fish tape for fishing wire through but there is no good access point through the fire wall, was hoping I wouldn’t have to run and wiring over the engine but it might take that
Yes. Chassis ground. Upfitter switches provide power at amperage listed in manual. Just make sure whatever you connect doesn't exceed rating. Otherwise can run with relay and direct power to battery.
Thanks! Our build video shows the compressor mounts: ua-cam.com/video/9irXoew6OT0/v-deo.html For wiring... I took the ARB wiring harness and stripped it down to the essentials (no switches or relays). When you flip the factory AUX switch it sends power to the compressor directly and kicks it on. The ARB harness is designed to hook to the battery with a relay that actuates it from a switch. Since the factory wiring allows 40amp drawn on 5&6 you can wire the compressor directly and strip out most of the wiring harness (much cleaner). Hope that helps!
You'll want to look in the manual where it shows the wire colors. Thats where it tells what amperage each wire is. We have 2 circuits that are 40 amp. Of course you can always use a relay for higher power connections
My 2019 F250 FX4 6.2l gas engine has upfitter fuse block and wires on driver side by firewall. My engine compartment is completely different from what is in video
Check out our truck build video. It shows a bit more... we basically used existing fender holes and fabricated a custom steel mount to bolt to the fender. Really hard to see the mounts with compressor on them. My buddy is a fabricator and was easy for him to build.
If your accessory pulls to much for those switches, use the switch powers wire as the 12v trigger wire for a relay and direct draw the high amp items off the battery….
@@TruckCamper I’ve been thinking about it, essentially each circuit is relayed anyhow, so using the power wire from the up gutter is basically daisy chaining relays, only benefit is now you control the power fuse requirement since it’s directly off the battery.
@@Subi_doo True. But it's factory and cleanly done... you'd be hard pressed to match quality. Love how easy and straight forward wiring is with these switches. They work great too!
@@TruckCamper I have them in my 2022 lariat f350. I know a lot of the stuff I’ll use will draw far more than those switches will allow with out the use of adding another relay to the circuit. Essentially with the upfitters, for me, Ford gave me 5 leads that will be inputs to relays. Most people can run stuff directly off them but I personally can’t. My lowest draw accessory is 80 amps and 160 amps total draw for just compressors combined. I’m going to use pressure switches to stage the compressors. 2 will run to x psi and turn off, then the next set will run on and stop at x psi. This way I don’t have 4 compressors rated at 40 amp a piece running all at once.
We air up 2 tires at a time. Wife does passenger side while I run driver side. It also allows redundancy. We had a dual ARB fail which resulted in no air. It's actually faster having 2 separate compressors
Cool. Just curious; Ive had the ARB dual compressor on my Land Cruiser for years with no issues. Planned to use the same on the super duty, but redundancy isn’t a bad idea.
Ok tell me what to do I have a 2017 f250 I want to install a aux fuel tank with a simple transfer pump as diesel pumps are not always accessible when on the road with a 42 foot fifth wheel camper I have the tank and pump what now
You need to find out how much power your pump requires... make sure the AUX switch will provide enough power (note 2 switches provide 40amps). Otherwise, you can using any AUX switch and wiring pump using a relay directly to the battery. Online wire gage calculators will provide the proper wire gage for the power draw and length of wiring. Not overly complicated but does require some homework and buying proper wiring/connectors.
Funny.... if you don't have one buy one, they're cool. Like if the were $5.. I just bought a 2020 F250 Lariat about $76k. You are right is cool. Tbanks for the video I have a lot of learning.
Does the retractable bed cover come with it's own switch? If so, is it a simple on/off switch, then yes. If the switch is more like a Double Pole Double Throw then still yes but you will have to wire in a relay. Of course that's the simple answer. You would need to give more details on the retractable bed cover.
Great info. I'll be using an ARB myself...I'll have a flatbed camper and the air compressor will be mounted in one of the diamond plate storage boxes mounted under the flatbed. You mentioned that the wire for #5 and #6 is 10 gauge...I presume you also used 10 gauge to run it from the fuse block to the compressor? You certainly wouldn't want to go thinner and there's no need to go with thicker considering it's 10 to start with...If you can tell me what you did in that regard, I'd appreciate it. Also, I'd reckon all those wires are 10 gauge, even the 25 amp? I haven't eyeballed mine yet.
ARB compressors are awesome! Keep in mind the single compressor pulls 40amps. The dual compressor pulls over 80 amps. So if you get the dual you'll need to run a dedicated power wire (fused) to the battery and use the wiring harness relay to trigger the compressor from the switch. 10 gauge wire should be fine if you keep the length ~ 10ft for one ARB compressor (single). You can use an online wiring size calculator to help verify gauge/length. Keep in mind with the truck running it will be pushing higher voltage (14v +) which will push more current down a smaller wires (allowing smaller gauge wiring or longer length). Hope that helps! I'm certainly not a electrical engineer but do know enough to be dangerous so do your own verifications!
@@TruckCamper Thanks for that and being so quick to respond. I'm very handy but the electrical stuff (gauge, length, amps, etc) isn't really my forte. What you said will get me started on the right path. I'll be about 15ft running from my fuse block to the ARB...I'll figure it out. BTW, I finally realized who it is you remind me so much of...River Cuomo of the band Weezer circa 1993. Maybe it's the haircut...check out the cover of the Blue Album. Great album if you're not familiar with it. Throw on a pair of Buddy Holly glasses and you'll likely draw a crowd.
Alright...I've got a question for you. I'm getting ready to mount a single ARB (not the twin) and I'm going to power it with Upfitter switch #6. Did you ditch the wire harness that came with the compressor?...it looks like you run the red main power wire to the Upfitter switch, ground the black to the chassis. However...what did you do with the two wires that are attached to the pressure switch on the unit? I noticed you said you ditched the relay on the harness altogether, I presume you didn't use that big fuse that was on the harness either. So main power straight to the compressor from the switch wire, ground to the chassis...but I can't figure how that pressure switch figures into it. I wanna get it right and not blow anything up. I'm using the unit for tire inflation only...no solenoids, no lockers. If you can describe how you wired it up I'd be over the moon.
You have most of that correct. I kept the stock wiring harness just modified it. Kept the power wire and fuse. Need the Pressure Switch and relay. Power source from Upfitter Switch. Ground to chassis. Make sure to study the wiring diagram. You'll basically need to lay out the harness and strip the unneeded wires out of it. Relay wires: Red to power wire (run to aux switch) Black to ground (chassis) Red/White goes to compressor power (already setup that way) Blue to pressure switch (already setup that way) Pressure switch: Red to power wire (run to aux switch) splice in You can unwrap the harness and remove the rest of it. Test the compressor with wiring pulled apart before you cut everything up. Then you can dress it in and install. Hope that helps and I didn't forget anything!
@@TruckCamper Everything you just wrote is perfect and actually the way I figured it would be with the harness relay involved for the pressure switch. Now I can get to work...thanks so much!
was building a 2022 and they now require the dual battery and dual alternator if you choose the upfitter switches. that was not the case on the 2021. I dont really want all that.
I went with a Chevy 2500. Had all the options I was going to order on the F250 but found it brand new on the lot. First GM truck in 25yrs. So far I’m loving it.
Thanks for all the great videos. We have a 2018 with a palamino ss 1500. I'm curious if you had any trouble with the 12v charge pin and your camper? I can't figure out if it's pushing 12v off the 7 pin when the camper is connected. Do you tell the super duty it's a trailer when you hook it up? Seems kinda dumb there's no way to test if 12v is coming off of it when the camper is hooked up. Or maybe that fancy northstar has a charge controller and tells you?
You bet! That's a nice setup. I thought the same as you... that the 7 pin would "charge" the battery somewhat. In reality, the wiring gauge is likely the limiting factor (guessing 16gauge). We were only seeing 5amps off the connector. That's essentially useless for charging! 7 pin connector shouldn't change with the "drive mode". You could check the power input inside the camper (that's what we did). But realistically, it's a waste of time for charging duty! Here's our solution (DC Charger): ua-cam.com/video/PcWredwQrXY/v-deo.html
Enjoyed the walk through on the upfitter switches and the hub location. I was looking at the incorrect location under the hood and realized it was where you showed. I'm hooking an illuminated Ford grill emblem to the upfitter switch. I too am accessorizing my new 2020 F250. I have the basic XL model F250 truck and there's a lot of accessories I'd love to have that are standard on XLT and higher models. Thanks much. I've learned a lot about my F250 from your channel and another great F250 truck channel "Colt's Way". New Subscriber! Have a fine week.
I'm wanting to run 2 - 18 watt LEDS below my rear bumper on my 2017 F-250 utilizing my up-fitter switch #1. I realize they are only going to be pulling like 3 amps so how would you hook these up? You mentioned installing a smaller fuse in place of the factory 25 amp. Do you know where I can find a smaller amp fuse for the up-fitter switches? The smallest I have found is a 20 amp on Amazon...call the dealer? I have my lights mounted and soldered 14 gauge wire to them and now I'm trying to figure out the rest of the puzzle. Thank you in advance!
We bought an assorted fuse set from Amazon. It has a bunch of different amp fuses. That would be the simplest. Otherwise any auto parts store will have them. Pull the one you want to replace and they can match it up! Should be easy to wire. Video should explain most of what you need. Keep it up! It does take some research but great to learn and gather some useful electrical bits.
Interesting. Do you have any wires in the engine compartment? I'd be surprised if all the wires are inside. I've heard that a couple of the switches may have wires in both locations. Appreciate the feedback!
@@TruckCamper so I do have a cluster at the fuse box under the hood. But looks like a duplicate in the cab. Also, the in cab cluster is connected by a big connector.
Yep. That was my understanding on how the wiring was done. I haven't investigated the "in cab" wiring yet... as we don't have a need. Thanks for the update!
Are you talking about the pass though wires? 2017 - 2020 all have wires under the battery under battery or over the wheel well cover (in the main harness and you have to dig them out) and are in the cab over the fuse box on passengers side. The are very short. On my 2021 I can't find them above the passenger fuse box. I might have to detach fuse box to find them. I have not yet removed wheel well cover to locate the ones there.
Good video, it just doesn't apply on the diesel trucks (my 2022 at least). According to the owners manual (page 616) there are no 25 amp or higher upfitter switches in the 2022 trucks ( for the 6.7L diesel at least). There are two 15 amp switches and the other 4 are 5 & 10 amp switches. Aux 2 & 3 are 15 amp, 1 & 4 are 10 amp and 5 & 6 are 5 amp. This info is in the owners manual starting on page 616 and ending on page 619, the manual also doesn't tell you what side of the vehicle to remove the battery tray from in order to get to the switch wires, going from the manual it looks like they are only telling you how to get to the wiring in a gas vice diesel powered truck. In the 6.7 L truck it's extremely difficult to remove the drivers side battery tray without removing the intercooler and radiator overflow tank, the passenger side battery tray removal is also a royal P.I.T.A. In the bundle of wires (16 wires) in the passenger side footwell only 2 out of the 16 wires match the color codes for the upfitter switches in the owners manual . The bundle of wires you show are not the correct wires in the diesel trucks, none of the wires in that bundle have the correct color coding as listed in the owners manual, plus you have to remove a but ton of harness tape just to get to those wires. You can power a high amperage load from any of the upfitter switches without having an overload problem, the way to do it is to wire up the proper amperage relay to the battery and then run the relay trigger wire to the upfitter switch, then wire the relay output to the load. When you turn the switch on it triggers the relay to close the switch inside of it and send power to the load. The easiest way to do this is to buy a pre-made harness from your local auto parts store, or Amazon usually has the same thing for a lower price and usually comes with free shipping. It was so much simpler to get to the upfitter switch wiring in the 2011 - 2016 trucks. owners manuaowners manual
Interesting! Several have commented saying the diesel is the same and others that it is different. It would be sad if the diesel has less amperage wiring (doesn't make any sense). We love being able to power the ARB air compressors directly from the factory wiring (40 amp). Thanks for sharing!
The change must have occurred on the 2022 models. My 2021 F350 6.7 power stroke shares that fuse block in that same location. Upfitter 1 is also 25 amp. brown with green trace
Thanks for the great video! Question, have you had any death wobble issues with your 2019 or 20 superduty? I didn't know it was a major problem until I had the issue last week while my camper was loaded. Scared the hell out of me! I have the same truck as you (2020 with under 3k miles) I researched NHTSA and watch alot of videos, I'm shocked this truck has so many complaints. I'm not sure what I'm going to do but just wanted to thank you for introducing me to Carli, I've reached out to them to get their opinion, hopefully they have products that will help this issue.
No death wobble issues. But we only had the stock suspension for 200 miles. The Carli trackbar could be the solution... Truck drives great even with the large tires and lift. My wife likes driving it around town. Really drives well. Hope you get the issue sorted. :)
I love trucks. They’re the best vehicles ever. Even a Ferrari or Porsche has nothing on a good old pickup truck
Utility is king
The up fitter switches are a must have in my opinion. They simplify your life so much adding electric extras like lights and stuff. Nice video.
So true!!! Best value factory option along with the locking rear differential. Thanks for sharing!
Would u recommend wiring the aux fuel tank to it?
Great explanation man, had to install a light bar for a friend, and this was exactly what i needed. Definitely have a new sub.
That's awesome, welcome aboard!
Just picked up my super duty and this info was exactly what I was looking for - thank you sir!!!
Very welcome! Thanks for sharing
Great video!!! Thank you for sharing!
Absolutely! :)
Thank you
Iv been wondering where they were run under the hood..
Appreciate it
Very welcome! :)
On a 2019 6.2L the upfitter fuses and wires are on the opposite side next to in the corner next to the hood strut
Thanks for sharing. Good info for others. :)
Thank you! Great video!
Welcome! Thanks for watching. :)
Thanks for this excellent info 😎👍
Very welcome! Thanks for the encouragement
The video cleared up the install for me.... Thanks for posting. I plan on putting the winch and air compressor on relays. I'll operate the relay with an upfitter switch. That way, you don't need to take up two switches for the heavy current. In fact, if you get a relay that is big enough, you could run the winch and compressor from just one relay. That would save an additional switch.
Glad it was helpful! That would be a big relay... winches can pull 600amps or more. Curious how you will like that setup.
I've been running wireless winch setups since 2010. Been flawless and really flexible. We do carry a wired remote for back up tho.
Thanks for sharing!
@@TruckCamper I currently have a Jeep JKRU with a Zeon 12 on it. I have it directly wired to the battery. In addition, I carry ARB Maximum Output Portable Compressor that connects directly to the battery when I need it. I have read a few stories where a winch burned up and took out the electrical system because the person could not get it disconnected quickly enough. A manual switch would help, but as a tech, I need to add complexity to it.... LOL
Was just wondering the other day how one wires to upfitter switches. Very informative. Plan on purchasing a super duty next spring/summer when more choices available at dealers.
Glad it was helpful. You might consider custom ordering one. Get the things you want and don't pay for extras. Our local dealer fleet manager was great. Plan for 3-4 months for delivery
@@TruckCamper I custom ordered my 2022 F-350 in August 2021, it finally arrived on Christmas Eve last year. They gave me $49K for my 2016 F-350, 6.7L, dually King Ranch with less than 33K miles on it. Now I'm waiting for the winch and trailer TPMS that were on the build sheet, to get here.
@@Lightning546 Nice!
Just the info I needed. Thank you.
Absolutely! Appreciate the comment:)
Well done video!
Appreciate it! Thanks for sharing
Great stuff! Thanks for this video. I bought a used F350 Diesel Dully and was wondering how to figure out if and how to use these!
The diesel dual wheel F352 Super Duty Lariat was on the driver’s side close to the battery.
Excellent. Thanks for sharing. Much appreciated. :)
The location of the switch wires is dependant on what year truck you have. For the 2011-2016 trucks, the bundle of wires for the switches are on the drivers side just above and to the left of the brake pedal.
I just found my Switch wires under the hood today. MAN did they put a lot of electrical tape on that bundle of wires!! Getting the tape off was the hardest part. BTW, I like where you mounted the compressor. That gives me ideas.....
Excellent! Glad it was helpful... I wasn't finding much useful information online. Such a fantastic factory option!!
Expedition Truck Camper - it is a fantastic option, so much so that it’s a no brainer. It should really be standard equipment in my opinion. Especially for the minor cost that it is.
So true!!
The B+ wire along with all tge aux wires. That goes to battery power with fuse which supplies power to the relays?
Check wire diagram to confirm. I don't recall
@@TruckCamper mine didnt come with a manual:(
@@FlipSideGarage Should be able to get manual online. Autozone offered access to mechanic manuals years ago... not sure if they still do.
Why not use a circuit for exhaust cut out valve for louder exhaust you can switch on and off?
That's interesting idea! But I like to keep it quiet. :)
Great video!
Thanks!
Do you just wire the ground on any ground you can find, or off the battery, or does the bock have a common ground connection?
You can use any of those options. Typically smaller power draw accessories I use body grounds. Big amp stuff like winch go directly to battery...
Do you think I need a relay for an LED light bar or can I go straight to the truck upfitter harness? Thanks for the video
Check what the amp draw is for the LED light bar. Most can run straight from the "standard" amperage switches. That's how ours is setup. We have another video with all our lighting (browse posted videos). Thanks!
What is the easiest way to get a wire through the cab from those switch relay locations, it seems to be a pain.
Run through the wire harness boot(s). Follow existing wire paths as much as possible... May need to fish it through with some coat hanger wire.
@@TruckCamper they make fish tape for fishing wire through but there is no good access point through the fire wall, was hoping I wouldn’t have to run and wiring over the engine but it might take that
@@funnydubby6401 Otherwise go underneath and up through a cab floor plug..
so you ran your red wire to 5/6 and grounded the black wire? are these upfitter switches power sources or just switches?
Yes. Chassis ground. Upfitter switches provide power at amperage listed in manual. Just make sure whatever you connect doesn't exceed rating. Otherwise can run with relay and direct power to battery.
Great video
Thanks! Appreciate it
Great video! Can you show the compressor and how you hooked it up.
Thanks! Our build video shows the compressor mounts: ua-cam.com/video/9irXoew6OT0/v-deo.html
For wiring... I took the ARB wiring harness and stripped it down to the essentials (no switches or relays). When you flip the factory AUX switch it sends power to the compressor directly and kicks it on. The ARB harness is designed to hook to the battery with a relay that actuates it from a switch. Since the factory wiring allows 40amp drawn on 5&6 you can wire the compressor directly and strip out most of the wiring harness (much cleaner). Hope that helps!
My owners manual lists the highest Amp circuit at 15 amps on my 2022 SD.
You'll want to look in the manual where it shows the wire colors. Thats where it tells what amperage each wire is. We have 2 circuits that are 40 amp. Of course you can always use a relay for higher power connections
Thanks so much
Absolutely! Appreciate it
Do you run the ground wires of your accessories to the relays, or do you run the ground wires to the frame or battery? Thanks
I run to the battery or buss bar connected to the battery. Low power accessories to the body ground or frame ground is fine. Hope that helps!
@@TruckCamper thanks for the reply and video 👍
Thank you. I need this.
You bet! Thanks for the comment. :)
My 2019 F250 FX4 6.2l gas engine has upfitter fuse block and wires on driver side by firewall. My engine compartment is completely different from what is in video
Have you hooked up accessories to the upfitter switches? What does your manual show? Seems strange...
Great info.
Thanks!!
My apologies if I missed it in the video, but where did you run your grounds to for you accessories?
We used chassis ground. There is a ground wire from the battery terminal to the body. You can use that bolt and add a lug to your accessory to attach.
Any ideas on the uses of the wire cluster in the passenger kick panel that connect to the switches? Just looking for ideas.
Haven't looked into that... for interior accessories? Ham radio. CB radio. More power charge connections....
Do you have any more detail about how you mounted he compressor in the engine compartment? Did you use a bracket? Any photos you can share?
Check out our truck build video. It shows a bit more... we basically used existing fender holes and fabricated a custom steel mount to bolt to the fender. Really hard to see the mounts with compressor on them. My buddy is a fabricator and was easy for him to build.
I want to put my dash cam on one of these switches. Do I need to run it down to these wires or can I tap into the switches themselves?
You'd need to run the power wire from the engine bay into the interior. Power feed comes from the fuse block.
@@TruckCamper bummer. That means running it down the " a" piller and then through the fire wall.
@@sleim754 Yep. Most likely the easiest. Or mount on the dash and run through the firewall
If your accessory pulls to much for those switches, use the switch powers wire as the 12v trigger wire for a relay and direct draw the high amp items off the battery….
Yes! That is an option... thanks for mentioning. Although it is much cleaner using the switch wiring when possible.
@@TruckCamper I’ve been thinking about it, essentially each circuit is relayed anyhow, so using the power wire from the up gutter is basically daisy chaining relays, only benefit is now you control the power fuse requirement since it’s directly off the battery.
@@Subi_doo True. But it's factory and cleanly done... you'd be hard pressed to match quality. Love how easy and straight forward wiring is with these switches. They work great too!
@@TruckCamper I have them in my 2022 lariat f350. I know a lot of the stuff I’ll use will draw far more than those switches will allow with out the use of adding another relay to the circuit. Essentially with the upfitters, for me, Ford gave me 5 leads that will be inputs to relays. Most people can run stuff directly off them but I personally can’t. My lowest draw accessory is 80 amps and 160 amps total draw for just compressors combined. I’m going to use pressure switches to stage the compressors. 2 will run to x psi and turn off, then the next set will run on and stop at x psi. This way I don’t have 4 compressors rated at 40 amp a piece running all at once.
@@Subi_doo Makes sense.. that's some decent loads! Should work like you're thinking
Correct, the diesel switch wires, relays, fuses are on left drivers side for upfitters switches.
Thanks for the update!
Big improvement. Previously you had to get under the dash…
Yep! It's rather simple.
Why two ARB compressors?
We air up 2 tires at a time. Wife does passenger side while I run driver side. It also allows redundancy. We had a dual ARB fail which resulted in no air. It's actually faster having 2 separate compressors
Cool. Just curious; Ive had the ARB dual compressor on my Land Cruiser for years with no issues. Planned to use the same on the super duty, but redundancy isn’t a bad idea.
@residualboulders It does make filling quicker. ARB announced their updated brushless compressor. Might be worth checking out
Ok tell me what to do I have a 2017 f250 I want to install a aux fuel tank with a simple transfer pump as diesel pumps are not always accessible when on the road with a 42 foot fifth wheel camper I have the tank and pump what now
You need to find out how much power your pump requires... make sure the AUX switch will provide enough power (note 2 switches provide 40amps). Otherwise, you can using any AUX switch and wiring pump using a relay directly to the battery. Online wire gage calculators will provide the proper wire gage for the power draw and length of wiring. Not overly complicated but does require some homework and buying proper wiring/connectors.
Thanks for the video
Tha realy help me out
Good video!!!👍👍💯
Absolutely! Glad it was helpful :)
Funny.... if you don't have one buy one, they're cool. Like if the were $5.. I just bought a 2020 F250 Lariat about $76k. You are right is cool. Tbanks for the video I have a lot of learning.
Very welcome! Congrats on the truck. Thanks for sharing!
Is it possible to wire a retractable bed cover to an up fitter switch???? :)
Maybe. It would just engage power. So one direction (not a toggle style switch). Interesting idea...
Does the retractable bed cover come with it's own switch? If so, is it a simple on/off switch, then yes. If the switch is more like a Double Pole Double Throw then still yes but you will have to wire in a relay. Of course that's the simple answer. You would need to give more details on the retractable bed cover.
@@AztecWarrior69_69 Well stated...
Great info. I'll be using an ARB myself...I'll have a flatbed camper and the air compressor will be mounted in one of the diamond plate storage boxes mounted under the flatbed. You mentioned that the wire for #5 and #6 is 10 gauge...I presume you also used 10 gauge to run it from the fuse block to the compressor? You certainly wouldn't want to go thinner and there's no need to go with thicker considering it's 10 to start with...If you can tell me what you did in that regard, I'd appreciate it. Also, I'd reckon all those wires are 10 gauge, even the 25 amp? I haven't eyeballed mine yet.
ARB compressors are awesome! Keep in mind the single compressor pulls 40amps. The dual compressor pulls over 80 amps. So if you get the dual you'll need to run a dedicated power wire (fused) to the battery and use the wiring harness relay to trigger the compressor from the switch. 10 gauge wire should be fine if you keep the length ~ 10ft for one ARB compressor (single). You can use an online wiring size calculator to help verify gauge/length. Keep in mind with the truck running it will be pushing higher voltage (14v +) which will push more current down a smaller wires (allowing smaller gauge wiring or longer length). Hope that helps! I'm certainly not a electrical engineer but do know enough to be dangerous so do your own verifications!
@@TruckCamper Thanks for that and being so quick to respond. I'm very handy but the electrical stuff (gauge, length, amps, etc) isn't really my forte. What you said will get me started on the right path. I'll be about 15ft running from my fuse block to the ARB...I'll figure it out.
BTW, I finally realized who it is you remind me so much of...River Cuomo of the band Weezer circa 1993. Maybe it's the haircut...check out the cover of the Blue Album. Great album if you're not familiar with it. Throw on a pair of Buddy Holly glasses and you'll likely draw a crowd.
@@byronlemay2166 Glad it will get you rolling!!! Many say Ashton Kutcher... but mostly wait too long between chopping. :)
Alright...I've got a question for you. I'm getting ready to mount a single ARB (not the twin) and I'm going to power it with Upfitter switch #6. Did you ditch the wire harness that came with the compressor?...it looks like you run the red main power wire to the Upfitter switch, ground the black to the chassis. However...what did you do with the two wires that are attached to the pressure switch on the unit? I noticed you said you ditched the relay on the harness altogether, I presume you didn't use that big fuse that was on the harness either.
So main power straight to the compressor from the switch wire, ground to the chassis...but I can't figure how that pressure switch figures into it. I wanna get it right and not blow anything up. I'm using the unit for tire inflation only...no solenoids, no lockers. If you can describe how you wired it up I'd be over the moon.
You have most of that correct. I kept the stock wiring harness just modified it. Kept the power wire and fuse. Need the Pressure Switch and relay. Power source from Upfitter Switch. Ground to chassis.
Make sure to study the wiring diagram. You'll basically need to lay out the harness and strip the unneeded wires out of it.
Relay wires:
Red to power wire (run to aux switch)
Black to ground (chassis)
Red/White goes to compressor power (already setup that way)
Blue to pressure switch (already setup that way)
Pressure switch:
Red to power wire (run to aux switch) splice in
You can unwrap the harness and remove the rest of it. Test the compressor with wiring pulled apart before you cut everything up. Then you can dress it in and install. Hope that helps and I didn't forget anything!
@@TruckCamper Everything you just wrote is perfect and actually the way I figured it would be with the harness relay involved for the pressure switch. Now I can get to work...thanks so much!
@@TruckCamper Got it hooked up today and it all went great. Thanks again...I had it pretty close to figured but you dialed me in.
@@byronlemay2166 Excellent! Enjoy. Thanks for sharing.
Do you have a video to show how to use the pass-through wires to wire something inside the cab to the switches?
Not currently... Just how the AUX switch wiring.
Did you make the change in your aux relay box to make switch 5 and 6 hot with the key off?
Nope. Still requires key on. But both draw too much power (air compressors) to run without motor running (for long).
was building a 2022 and they now require the dual battery and dual alternator if you choose the upfitter switches. that was not the case on the 2021. I dont really want all that.
Strange. And I agree. Don't need all that stuff. You might talk with your dealer. I've noticed the website build and price isn't overly accurate...
My 2022 they added the dual battery when I opted for the front winch.
I went with a Chevy 2500. Had all the options I was going to order on the F250 but found it brand new on the lot. First GM truck in 25yrs. So far I’m loving it.
Thanks for all the great videos. We have a 2018 with a palamino ss 1500. I'm curious if you had any trouble with the 12v charge pin and your camper? I can't figure out if it's pushing 12v off the 7 pin when the camper is connected. Do you tell the super duty it's a trailer when you hook it up? Seems kinda dumb there's no way to test if 12v is coming off of it when the camper is hooked up. Or maybe that fancy northstar has a charge controller and tells you?
You bet! That's a nice setup. I thought the same as you... that the 7 pin would "charge" the battery somewhat. In reality, the wiring gauge is likely the limiting factor (guessing 16gauge). We were only seeing 5amps off the connector. That's essentially useless for charging! 7 pin connector shouldn't change with the "drive mode". You could check the power input inside the camper (that's what we did). But realistically, it's a waste of time for charging duty!
Here's our solution (DC Charger):
ua-cam.com/video/PcWredwQrXY/v-deo.html
@@TruckCamper cool thx a ton. Really appreciate it.
So they removed the ability to wire in without cutting wires? Hell of a step back
Don't need to cut wires... just strip them. They are capped.
@@TruckCamper yup. I'm blind a.f.
Enjoyed the walk through on the upfitter switches and the hub location. I was looking at the incorrect location under the hood and realized it was where you showed. I'm hooking an illuminated Ford grill emblem to the upfitter switch. I too am accessorizing my new 2020 F250. I have the basic XL model F250 truck and there's a lot of accessories I'd love to have that are standard on XLT and higher models. Thanks much. I've learned a lot about my F250 from your channel and another great F250 truck channel "Colt's Way". New Subscriber! Have a fine week.
Thanks for sharing! Glad we could be helpful. More to come...
I'm wanting to run 2 - 18 watt LEDS below my rear bumper on my 2017 F-250 utilizing my up-fitter switch #1. I realize they are only going to be pulling like 3 amps so how would you hook these up? You mentioned installing a smaller fuse in place of the factory 25 amp. Do you know where I can find a smaller amp fuse for the up-fitter switches? The smallest I have found is a 20 amp on Amazon...call the dealer?
I have my lights mounted and soldered 14 gauge wire to them and now I'm trying to figure out the rest of the puzzle. Thank you in advance!
We bought an assorted fuse set from Amazon. It has a bunch of different amp fuses. That would be the simplest. Otherwise any auto parts store will have them. Pull the one you want to replace and they can match it up!
Should be easy to wire. Video should explain most of what you need.
Keep it up! It does take some research but great to learn and gather some useful electrical bits.
Expedition Truck Camper thank you!
2018 f450 here. Our aux wiring is inside, at the passenger foot area
Interesting. Do you have any wires in the engine compartment? I'd be surprised if all the wires are inside. I've heard that a couple of the switches may have wires in both locations. Appreciate the feedback!
@@TruckCamper so I do have a cluster at the fuse box under the hood. But looks like a duplicate in the cab. Also, the in cab cluster is connected by a big connector.
Yep. That was my understanding on how the wiring was done. I haven't investigated the "in cab" wiring yet... as we don't have a need. Thanks for the update!
Where's the internal wiring for the upfitter switches at?
Not sure what you are looking for? Switches are in the headliner. You need to tap into the wiring under the hood (not inside the cab).
Are you talking about the pass though wires? 2017 - 2020 all have wires under the battery under battery or over the wheel well cover (in the main harness and you have to dig them out) and are in the cab over the fuse box on passengers side. The are very short. On my 2021 I can't find them above the passenger fuse box. I might have to detach fuse box to find them. I have not yet removed wheel well cover to locate the ones there.
So my diesel is different. And we are no longer given manuals and new vehicles
I heard that... You might ask the parts department about ordering a paper manual.
Good video, it just doesn't apply on the diesel trucks (my 2022 at least).
According to the owners manual (page 616) there are no 25 amp or higher upfitter switches in the 2022 trucks ( for the 6.7L diesel at least). There are two 15 amp switches and the other 4 are 5 & 10 amp switches. Aux 2 & 3 are 15 amp, 1 & 4 are 10 amp and 5 & 6 are 5 amp. This info is in the owners manual starting on page 616 and ending on page 619, the manual also doesn't tell you what side of the vehicle to remove the battery tray from in order to get to the switch wires, going from the manual it looks like they are only telling you how to get to the wiring in a gas vice diesel powered truck. In the 6.7 L truck it's extremely difficult to remove the drivers side battery tray without removing the intercooler and radiator overflow tank, the passenger side battery tray removal is also a royal P.I.T.A.
In the bundle of wires (16 wires) in the passenger side footwell only 2 out of the 16 wires match the color codes for the upfitter switches in the owners manual .
The bundle of wires you show are not the correct wires in the diesel trucks, none of the wires in that bundle have the correct color coding as listed in the owners manual, plus you have to remove a but ton of harness tape just to get to those wires.
You can power a high amperage load from any of the upfitter switches without having an overload problem, the way to do it is to wire up the proper amperage relay to the battery and then run the relay trigger wire to the upfitter switch, then wire the relay output to the load. When you turn the switch on it triggers the relay to close the switch inside of it and send power to the load. The easiest way to do this is to buy a pre-made harness from your local auto parts store, or Amazon usually has the same thing for a lower price and usually comes with free shipping.
It was so much simpler to get to the upfitter switch wiring in the 2011 - 2016 trucks. owners manuaowners manual
Interesting! Several have commented saying the diesel is the same and others that it is different. It would be sad if the diesel has less amperage wiring (doesn't make any sense). We love being able to power the ARB air compressors directly from the factory wiring (40 amp). Thanks for sharing!
The change must have occurred on the 2022 models. My 2021 F350 6.7 power stroke shares that fuse block in that same location. Upfitter 1 is also 25 amp. brown with green trace
Thanks for the great video! Question, have you had any death wobble issues with your 2019 or 20 superduty? I didn't know it was a major problem until I had the issue last week while my camper was loaded. Scared the hell out of me! I have the same truck as you (2020 with under 3k miles) I researched NHTSA and watch alot of videos, I'm shocked this truck has so many complaints. I'm not sure what I'm going to do but just wanted to thank you for introducing me to Carli, I've reached out to them to get their opinion, hopefully they have products that will help this issue.
No death wobble issues. But we only had the stock suspension for 200 miles. The Carli trackbar could be the solution... Truck drives great even with the large tires and lift. My wife likes driving it around town. Really drives well. Hope you get the issue sorted. :)
@@TruckCamper could you do a review on the Carli suspension system? Something I think I might do once my warranty is up...
@@fathertime209 That's a good idea. Yes, will add it to the video list! Stay tuned...
@@TruckCamper Thanks for the quick response and I appreciate your interest and the quality content you put on UA-cam!
I wish you tubers could just talk less. Seriously. Do you a ten minute video to say here are the wires and here are the switches?
There's a good deal going on... not much of a video without words. More of a picture! :)
This video was pointless. You literally explained nothing at all.
No need to be rude. What exactly do you need to know?
Thanks for the info. Very helpful
Very welcome:)