I have a 1997 Honda 40 HP four-stroke. Love it. Bought it from a person who took good care of it. I've had it for about two years. Thought it was time for some good servicing. Excellent video. Thanks
Just finished servicing my 2005 Honda 50hp 4-stroke BF50. Your video was a really great help. Did the oil change, spark plugs, lower unit lube, thermostat, then the impeller. While the lower unit was off, I decided to check the speedometer hole. It was very stopped up. Had a heck of a time getting that unstopped. First used 3/32 drill bit (by hand) but it wasn't long enough to go down into the vertical pathway. Finally used a small ss rod hammered flat on the end with a slow drill. Had to replace some of the rubber tubing and found that 1/4 inch black sprinkler system drip hose worked well. Engine now ready for fishing! Thanks!
Dear Australian Friend, Thank you so much for giving your knowledge freely. I just bought my boat 3 months ago and was a little intimidated until I saw how easy you made it. I have a 50 HP Honda, 4 stroke engine. I owe you a beer if I ever get to Australia. Your American friend.-Paul
THIS is the video that I wished I found first time I searched. I had to do some service on my Honda BF30 and you made it all accessable and doable. Thank you!
Probably the best information and advice including installation of the parts on UA-cam, this is how to service a outboard without being ripped off. If everyone done this maybe the boat mechanic might lower there service charges. Excellent content. Thanks from wales uk 🏴
Its great you guys put out videos like this otherwise people like myself who live in rural areas would have to travel a long ways for repairs. Thanks keep it up.
👍👍 I’m a motorcycle & car mechanic , you sir did an excellent job of explaining a basic service , from the beautiful state of South Carolina , thank you !
This video is deserving the Prime Ministers Award for excellence. From start to finish you do not kill it with music or profanities. I have done this a couple of times on a BF25. Actually did the water pump twice because I ran it on land with the special Honda brass flushing adapter. If you have one, it would be good to show your viewers what not to use, as recommended by Honda, at least here in Canada. Your muffs are old school that actually works and keeps on working. If I may add a few comments that might save frustration, coming from a mechanic. For the untrained wrench, it could be beneficial to torque fasteners with a torque wrench to prevent pulling threads or overstretched bolts, nuts. Again you have done a bang on video and I think you are the best that I have seen. For the spark plugs, gapping to correct gap could be beneficial. I drain the fuel bowls before and after starting, actually as it runs. Reinstalling the foot, it wouldn't hurt to put grease on water tube that fits into rubber water pump insert. If tools are readily available, a compression test helps to reassure engine life. Inspecting or replacing timing belt and idler, setting engine valves are important. Removing carbs and checking jets and tubes. My pilot tubes were almost eaten away and just about completely blocked, and then setting idle and synchronizing the carbs, not sure if you cover some of that in other videos. Just thought I would mention it. This particular engine was running ruff. No compression on center cylinder. Automatically pulled the head and everything was like new from the naked eye. Checked head for cracks. Reassembled, and found center cylinder valves were tight. This was just after a tune up from local dealership. Someone got off track and told customer he needed a new motor. A lot of work and expense on parts for not checking basics. Regardless,you have done a 5 star video, congratulations for knocking it out of the park and I look forward to viewing more. Thank you sir.
This just might be the longest comment on my channel. 👍 as you mentioned there was a couple of things I could have shown but I wanted it as basic as possible. Thanks for watching it mate. Cheers
Going to service my Honda 30 in the next few weeks. I couldn't remember what to do with the gear linkage so a nice clear reminder from you. Also a good reminder about the grease points. Thanks from the UK.
Glad it was helpful Peter. One more tip with the gear linkage. When you get it back together it may feel difficult to engage gears. Test it with the engine running and that will give you the real indication if it is adjusted correctly. Thanks for watching.
G'day: This video is SO VERY HELPFUL!!! I was able to follow this to change out the oil + filter and the impeller in my BF20 and now it's finally running again! If only I had realized the BF20 has a 5th bolt holding the leg on. May have broken a small piece of the body while getting the leg off, but it runs!
Great video! I also own a HONDA and love it! I have been servicing my own outboard myself. You put in a great guide to help people. The only thing I felt like you missed to mention was to put the crush washers on the lower unit bolts. I have to make sure they are installed every time because my motor sits in the water at the marina during the season.
You're an absolute star, priceless! Only wish there was a shard of info on why on earth I'm seeing oil leaking from the water intake when refilling the gearbox oil (bottom up like you). I'll keep searching, but this is a keeper for sure! Thanks from Gothenburg Sweden!
top video, laid back but full detail, I dont normally comment but praise where needed. I especially like the beer at the end bit! as its 35C here today!
Excellent video for me as new owner of BF20. Got engine and gear oil changed already, but for impeller nice to get guidelines before taking action. Thank you! Cheers from Finland.
4:30 try MEK (Methyl ethyl ketone) for cleaning gasket surfaces. You can throw away all the sharp objects, stuff comes off in 2 wipes. Came here to see if you need a gasket for the impeller, was not disappointed. Good video although you missed some In my opinion important things; doing maintenance is also a checkup if everything is in good shape. You say that you’re examining things; but for your audience (someone that’s not a mechanic wanting to do maintenance), they don’t know what for: So color of oil; the shrapnel magnet bolt on the gear oil; checking the drive shaft oil seal, for fishing line behind the thrust washer; prop damage inspection (no prop comes out as new; what’s the limit?). Maybe carb clean etc? On older carb models, if they’re not setup right (ie synchronized, clogged jets). Keep Making videos my man!
@PointlessMiracle maybe you know how tight the propeller bold must be screwed on when installing a new prop? I did mine like hand tight, but maybe the rubber sealing inside must be compressed fully and the thrust washer must be completely pressed against the messing prop bush? Any advise here is very much welcome ❣️ @BornAgainBoating Thanx for the great video, I have all the service manuals, but its a lot easier the way you explain stuff... Great work, even after 4 years...
BF135 Service manual in the prop (castle) nut: 18 mm CASTLE NUT INSTALLATION: TORQUE: 1 N.m (0.1 kgf.m, 0.7 lbf.ft) If the split pin cannot be set by tightening to the specified torque, tighten the castle nut additionally until the split pin can be set. MAX. TORQUE: 44 N.m (4.5 kgf.m, 33 lbf.ft) For comparison: the bolts of the gear case must be tightened at a torque of 34 N.m (3.5 kgf.m, 25 lbf.ft). The maximum torque of a human hand on a screwdriver is 16Nm.. "Hand tight" is somewhere between 4 and 10 Nm depending who you ask... So 1Nm on the castle nut is a very light torque, yet, my question remains, you feel the rubber ring of a new prop compressing when tightening the nut, but I used more than "light torque" of 1Nm, should the rubber ring inside the prop be compressed or not?
@@MarcoYolo420 honestly I don’t know, I commented on this video because I am not very familiar with outboard maintenance (but am with other mechanic stuff) and wanted to give good feedback because this guy has great potential !
@@PointlessMiracle Gotya, and fully agree, this guy should be hired for making content like this... About the nut, manual sais 1nm and max 44nm, so basically saying, pick your number... I think its fine...
Amazing video brother thank you for posting this. I just bought a boat with a 75hp Honda and will need to do everything you've shown. Although I expect some things to be slightly different your video was helpful to me. Cheers from Canada!
Pretty good video. I always use dish soap when putting my impeller into the impeller housing, it lubricates the initial start up but then biodegrades as to not pollute the lake. Don’t think it really matters though. Love my Honda bf35.
Great work! My Honda outboard need a full service. I do have some semi pro mechanics and skilled amateurs to guide me and also lend me tools but this didn't look deterrent. I THINK I can do it
G'day to you. Can I offer you a bit of friendly advice.I have had my own boat service shop for the last 26 years. There was a couple of things you missed. 1/ No compression test. 2/ What about the anodes. They help prevent the motor corroding away. They must have a clean contact with motor casings. Ask a dealer where they are and have spares. They rot away. 3/ No Inox/ crc/wd40 sprayed on the motor always the last thing to do. 4/ Its always a good idea to degrease the motor from top to bottom. Don't worry when you hose it down water can't get in where it shouldn't be. 5/ Absolutely no reason to put grease on links etc. It only makes a mess and gives dirt and dust some where to stick when your towing to and from the water.6/ Get yourself a proper water trap/ fuel filter, it will save the day in the end and they aren't costly. 7/ When you reconnect your gearshift don't try and change gears without turning your prop shaft. This will line up the dog clutch with the dogs on the gears and you won't strain any of the mechanism. 8/ This might cost a couple of bob if you can't do it but clean the inside of the lower casing behind the prop and there is a bearing carrier in there. Remove it and replace the prop shaft seals. Reseal it with grease All Over it when you put it back in.This is an important step. If anything goes wrong inside and you haven't had it out in a couple of years time you stand a chance of breaking the gear housing to dissmantle your gear box. It is actually supposed to be done every 150 hours. At a dealer it would be called a MAJOR SERVICE. 9/ Service your battery. Clean your terminals and leads. Check the motor wiring especially the earth connections. Every time there is an electrical issue there will be an earth problem along with it. I hope you don't think I'm a prick or the like's but its free advice from someone who's done this for 53 years in total. Some of these things might help you. I hope so. Regards.
Hi chris. Thanks for the feedback. I did forget to mention a couple of things like the anodes. Some of it I check prior to each trip such as the battery terminals which I could have explained. This is just showing how easy a basic service is. Thanks for watching.
@@ChippyOZ I've never heard of lanolin spray.. does it not damage plastic parts under the cowl of the outboard, like (presumably) WD40, CRC and others do..???
Hay only just saw your comment as UA-cam put it in spam for some reason. Thanks for checking it out and I see your doin similar stuff. I like your work.
I changed the impeller on last weekend. The only tricky phases were taking the gear changer rod off and back to the engine. The two nuts had to be fully opened and even tighten a bit in order to separate the rod parts. I managed to get the forward position on by accident when pulling the leg off due to it wasn't separated fully yet. It is very difficult to put the gear back to neutral when the leg is taken off.
@@AusAdventure I guess it is very easy after it has been done once. But if it is done only once in e.g. 5 years there might be problems to have the procedures clear in mind again. One thing was that the leg's internal surfaces were full of dirt (mud from the lake bottom). Perhaps I should remove and clean the leg more often. If you have deep waters where you keep your boat there are no such issues... Anyway... many thanks for your video due to it is the best and it was about the same size as an engine as mine is!! I wouldn't have the courage to do the job without a good example.
This video was amazing and super helpful in serving our new Honda 30hp motor. If you ever clean out your carbs that would make a great video also!!! Thanks for making this
Just a suggestion (and I haven’t finished watching the entire video yet) let people know how long it takes you to the entire job at the beginning or end of your videos please. Great video/audio and very informative!!!
No big twig but there the difference in motor oils that you didn’t add is what would be pulled into the new empty filter..just a thought.. Aside from that I learned a few things and gained a little confidence watching this! Thanks!
Cheers mate. I did check the oil again after I ran the motor to account for the filter filling up and it was actually still at a good level so didn't end up adding any more. I was a little surprised. Glad it was helpful and thanks for watching.
Was looking for service for a smaller engine an got. Your video. Watched it very clear an informative. Thanks and subbed from minnasota. USA.plan to watch more of your content..Cheers Sir.
@@AusAdventure Are you happy with this outboard so far? I have heard some negative things about if from other owners. I've experienced some issues with the fuel system and carburators. Mine doesn't idle properly, and sometimes it dies when going from WOT to idle.
David North I have been very happy with it. Mine is a 2008 model and I have owned it since 2010. I service it every year and I flush it for at least 10 minutes after every use. I have never had any fuel issues or any issues for that matter. Any motor that is not looked after properly will experience issues. You don’t know how well others look after their engines too so you have to take others opinions with a grain of salt sometimes.
I have a 2012 with no issues. The thing about these is they are extremely sensitive to ethanol. If you leave fuel with ethanol in them, you're going to have carb problems. Doesn't matter what additives you use, they won't help. I use a small pour of additives on each fillup (seafoam) plus ethanol free 90 fuel. Never once had an issue. Just ran it after a 50 day break, fired up first turn.
Just a thought On my outboard which is an older BF45A there is a fifth bolt under the anode plate holding the leg on. Need a 12mm wrench to get it out. You make great videos.
Excellent how to! One question, how do you get your muffs to run enough water through, is the clamp the trick? I have the same engine and can't get mine to run enough water through the system, but haven't tried clamping it.
I still utilize my 84 Mariner 15, and 96 Yamaha 30hp but I mainly run a 17' Flat with a 40 mount swapped to my 2017 50 Honda courtesy of my cousin. Great for beaver dams. Just like watching my uncle working on his OMC motors after the seasons over, he still uses them👍
I've just got a 15hp honda 4stroke on a 4m fishing boat. Tested it before I brought it and the water wasn't squirting alot but his muffs were shit. I got it home put some decent muffs on and it's not squirting water at all. Turned it off after about 20 seconds. Had a look where the water feeds into and took that little gauze off and found what looks like little bits of rubber. This might be from the impeller.
@@AusAdventure yeah I've watched your video and another one that actually showed the little bits of rubber that I seen. Cheers for this video ill get a few parts together and do a full service. Obviously the guy I brought it from hadn't taken care of it too well.
@@AusAdventure ok, yep impeller has no impellers left.... I found a few down the bottom in the pick up about 4 little rubber nobs and when i pulled the pump off another lose 1 so hopefully the rest went somewhere else NOT UP THE INTAKE.. also the oil filter has 2014 on it so I'm guessing the "service last year" was a lie.
@@peterk7377 yeah sounds like they were not exactly honest. Sometimes those bits of rubber get stuck in the tell tail port so I would clean that hose out also.
Bro much love bredren best video out there just getting the boat back on the water soon er then later because of you you actually just reminded me about the thermostat as well can't wait to catch that first Ono or mahi-mahi chee hoo!!! Much aloha from Hawaii 🤙
Brilliant, No Bullshit instructional video, Thanks Mate, I have the BF40 and none of my spark plug sockets fit even though they are the right size for the plug, did you use a special socket?
Terrific - thank you very much! I can't get the gear case off but now I'm convinced it's just that the dowel pin is seized in place. Out with the plastic mallet!
Very Best video I've found to help me with the BF50A Honda I bought a couple weeks ago!!! Thank You. *Biggest issue I was worried about was the gear linkage when changing the water pump impeller. Thanks for that clarity! Well done!!
Great video. When changing the gear oil your supposed to pump in it until it overflows, let it sit for a bit to let bubbles out, then pump some more. Least thats what I am told.
I wouldn’t have thought there would be enough air bubbles to adversely effect it, especially when filled from the bottom. Nice tip though and thanks for watching.
Did mine this week, had major trouble working out why I had no tell tale water afterwards though. Turns out the short rubber hose on lower leg wasn't mating with the tube coming down from the engine 😳, watch out for this..
I bought a 50 Honda BF 50I’m going to do everything you just did in the video but what I wanted to know is should I spray the carburetors down first to clean them out I think this motor hasn’t been serviced in a while thanks for your support
Hi Doolie, if the carbies have stale fuel in them it would be a good idea to drain it out. I have never had to do it myself so I can't give you any further info on how to do it. I am just about to upload a video in which I change the internal engine Anode which may be of some use to you so keep an eye out for that video soon. Thanks for watching..
Glad it was helpful. I can’t remember the exact amount but it was close to $250. Got it from the Honda dealer at Runaway Bay Marina. I think they are called Runaway Bay Marine.
I have a Honda BF 30 where you have to manually lift up the lever to tilt your lift your motor up and down there's two little springs underneath on that lever nobody seems to know how to put them back together would you know or even have a picture of where their positioned so I can put mine back on that would be great and your video was fantastic thank you
How zit mate!!! I've landed on your channel by accident, but man am I glad I did 😎 subscribed immediately and have been watching your videos for 2 days now. Awesome stuff mate awesome stuff and oh boy this video of how to service your own outboard engine is GOLD 👍 it's a bloody ripoff to take it to a dealer. Get out there and keep the good stuff coming, and be safe 👍👍👍✌🐟⚓🎣⛺
Excellent video well done learnt some more from you one of the best I've seen . But there is one question does the gasket in the water pump were it meets the stainless steel plate and the bottom housing need any lube such as a little bit of oil rub on it for a better seal or just put on as is i notice you put it on as is thanks Rick
@@AusAdventure Sure thing. I was watching because,even though I take good care of my equipment, the one time in several years we had a few days of hot salmon fishing my 25 horse Honda quit me. running really rough..Tried all the stuff you and I do but no luck so I brought to town to outboard mechanic I trust. THREE weeks out.. No salmon...Don't want to buy a new one age age 76.
@@AusAdventure The usual culprit--Carburetors..Damn. I'm so conscientious about using clean gas and keeping my tanks dry etc.,but it seem to be the nature of the beasts..Somewhere, in some holy book, I'm sure there is a reference to the close relationship between the Devil and outboard motors..
(great video) Hello. If the upper hex section shown in 19:24 doesn't spin freely to remove the lower unit... (gear shifting rod) Did some moron use red thread locker on it??? What do I do then??? Separating the nut from long hex section was okay.. But the upper portion does not spin to take it apart.. Is there an easy way to get that to twist if it is locked up?? I don't want to break anything.. Thx.
Hi Mate I have never had the problem you are having. If there is thread locker on it I can imagine it would be very difficult to remove. The two nuts tight up against each other should be enough to keep them in place. Hope the brake cleaner works for you.
@@AusAdventure thx. Not yet.. Added WD-40 penetrating oil after a couple hours of brake cleaner. Still stuck. Will try a barbeque lighter next on the long hex nut. Too tight a spot for a regular torch or heat gun... And rubber mounts nearby. Is really weird that the upper threads of the long nut are solid. Where the two nuts hit, those threads are freely moving. Damn.. 😎
Great tutorial! Thank you. I have a BF40 2003 and there is a hose along with the spline that holds the forward & reverse rod. DO you happen to know that is removed?
Easier way to get those stuck lower unit drain screws out is a big screw driver with a square shaft and a crescent wrench comes right out with no beating.
Mate I have not had any experience with the 15hp so I can’t say for sure but I would think that it would be easy to identify. Cheers for watching the video.
Sharp clear illustrative photography, gentle presentation, good tips. 1000 thanks. Nice if you did one for my 20 hp. With an old bad back, it’s nice to know how to take apart some of the engines components before lifting it up onto a truck tailgate. Took off the tilts and trim plus the cowling and the propeller to shave down the weight to under under 100 pounds have you dealt with making very heavy outboards lighter temporarily for Transport?this is Curt and Virginia USA
Question ... My motor kills when idling after a few seconds. It's similar to yours Honda BF90A 2001. I have the manual too. Where would you go first? Throttle cable adjustment? Thanks for the awesome videos on the Honda. I've already done some of my own maintenance. Water pump was easy! Lower gear oil, easy! Thanks again.
I would probably make sure the fuel supply is ok and it’s fresh first. Then you could check the spark plugs are good and then adjust the idle. If still no good the carbys might need a clean or overhaul. Good luck.
Fun fact if you are removing the lower unit on a honda bf40/50 there is a hidden 5th leg bolt underneath the zinc anode thingy. Boy was I swearing trying to get it off with only 4/5 bolts removed.
Great video. Only thing I’d say is be careful what grease you use on the impeller. Red rubber grease is ok, as is evinrude triple guard, but “marine grease” which are often lithium based with added zinc, will eat away at the impeller. One of those things where it’s probably fine, especially as it’ll be washed out soon as it’s ran. But if you service the boat at the end of the season you don’t want it sat for months like that.
Most Informative Video I have seen as a new outboard motor owner. Much appreciated.
Glad it was helpful mate and thank you for the $.
I have a 1997 Honda 40 HP four-stroke. Love it. Bought it from a person who took good care of it. I've had it for about two years. Thought it was time for some good servicing. Excellent video. Thanks
Glad it was helpful Geoff.
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Just finished servicing my 2005 Honda 50hp 4-stroke BF50. Your video was a really great help. Did the oil change, spark plugs, lower unit lube, thermostat, then the impeller. While the lower unit was off, I decided to check the speedometer hole. It was very stopped up. Had a heck of a time getting that unstopped. First used 3/32 drill bit (by hand) but it wasn't long enough to go down into the vertical pathway. Finally used a small ss rod hammered flat on the end with a slow drill. Had to replace some of the rubber tubing and found that 1/4 inch black sprinkler system drip hose worked well. Engine now ready for fishing! Thanks!
Nice work mate. Hope it runs well for you. Cheers
Dear Australian Friend, Thank you so much for giving your knowledge freely. I just bought my boat 3 months ago and was a little intimidated until I saw how easy you made it. I have a 50 HP Honda, 4 stroke engine. I owe you a beer if I ever get to Australia. Your American friend.-Paul
Glad to help. Happy boating my friend. Cheers 🍻
YOUR THE BEST FAST AND TO THE POINT NEVER ENJOYED WATCHING THE WHOLE VIDEO UNTIL NOW
Thanks Dan. Appreciate the compliment
THIS is the video that I wished I found first time I searched. I had to do some service on my Honda BF30 and you made it all accessable and doable. Thank you!
Your welcome. Thanks for the great feedback. 🍻
The satisfying sigh of a cold beer after a job well done
You bet. Only way to finish a job.
This is a fantastic video - the best I've seen - lighting, editing, and information are top shelf! Well done.
Thanks Josh. Glad it was helpful. Be sure to share it with your boating mates. 👍
Why does a piss hole always black
He has to be from the rubber the Dipesh hole the piece is constrained to the engine how do you get it out of there
Probably the best information and advice including installation of the parts on UA-cam, this is how to service a outboard without being ripped off. If everyone done this maybe the boat mechanic might lower there service charges. Excellent content. Thanks from wales uk 🏴
Thanks for the great feedback. Glad it was helpful. 👍
@@AusAdventure Agreed! Great bit of information mate! Well done and thank you!
best vid on servicing an outboard motor on youtube by far mate cheers
Cheers mate, glad it was helpful. Feel free to share it with your friends.
Couldn’t agree with you more … your a legend mate soooooo helpful 👍🏻
It really is the best. Well done mate
Its great you guys put out videos like this otherwise people like myself who live in rural areas would have to travel a long ways for repairs. Thanks keep it up.
Glad it was helpful mate and thanks for watching.
👍👍 I’m a motorcycle & car mechanic , you sir did an excellent job of explaining a basic service , from the beautiful state of South Carolina , thank you !
Thanks for the comment mate. Glad you liked it. Cheers 🍻
OUTSTANDING JOB! Complete service. Fast, Complete and to the Point
Thanks mate. 🍻
THANK YOU FROM CANADA....saved a 25hp honda that was supposed to be junk. Your vids are simple and informative...got my sub and like
Thanks Mandy. Glad it was helpful.
This video is deserving the Prime Ministers Award for excellence. From start to finish you do not kill it with music or profanities. I have done this a couple of times on a BF25. Actually did the water pump twice because I ran it on land with the special Honda brass flushing adapter. If you have one, it would be good to show your viewers what not to use, as recommended by Honda, at least here in Canada. Your muffs are old school that actually works and keeps on working. If I may add a few comments that might save frustration, coming from a mechanic. For the untrained wrench, it could be beneficial to torque fasteners with a torque wrench to prevent pulling threads or overstretched bolts, nuts. Again you have done a bang on video and I think you are the best that I have seen. For the spark plugs, gapping to correct gap could be beneficial. I drain the fuel bowls before and after starting, actually as it runs. Reinstalling the foot, it wouldn't hurt to put grease on water tube that fits into rubber water pump insert. If tools are readily available, a compression test helps to reassure engine life. Inspecting or replacing timing belt and idler, setting engine valves are important. Removing carbs and checking jets and tubes. My pilot tubes were almost eaten away and just about completely blocked, and then setting idle and synchronizing the carbs, not sure if you cover some of that in other videos. Just thought I would mention it. This particular engine was running ruff. No compression on center cylinder. Automatically pulled the head and everything was like new from the naked eye. Checked head for cracks. Reassembled, and found center cylinder valves were tight. This was just after a tune up from local dealership. Someone got off track and told customer he needed a new motor. A lot of work and expense on parts for not checking basics. Regardless,you have done a 5 star video, congratulations for knocking it out of the park and I look forward to viewing more. Thank you sir.
This just might be the longest comment on my channel. 👍 as you mentioned there was a couple of things I could have shown but I wanted it as basic as possible. Thanks for watching it mate. Cheers
Thanks!
Cheers Max. Glad it was helpful and thanks for your support. 🍻
Going to service my Honda 30 in the next few weeks. I couldn't remember what to do with the gear linkage so a nice clear reminder from you. Also a good reminder about the grease points. Thanks from the UK.
Glad it was helpful Peter. One more tip with the gear linkage. When you get it back together it may feel difficult to engage gears. Test it with the engine running and that will give you the real indication if it is adjusted correctly. Thanks for watching.
G'day: This video is SO VERY HELPFUL!!! I was able to follow this to change out the oil + filter and the impeller in my BF20 and now it's finally running again! If only I had realized the BF20 has a 5th bolt holding the leg on. May have broken a small piece of the body while getting the leg off, but it runs!
Glad it was helpful mate.
They all have a 5th bolt, he forgot to mention it unfortunately
Merci!
Thank you 🍻
Great video! I also own a HONDA and love it! I have been servicing my own outboard myself. You put in a great guide to help people. The only thing I felt like you missed to mention was to put the crush washers on the lower unit bolts. I have to make sure they are installed every time because my motor sits in the water at the marina during the season.
Thanks mate.
I'm keeping this one as my go to for servicing my recently acquired 40 hp honda. Thank you
Glad it helped you. Thanks for watching it.
Excellent work! Thanks for the time you took to share your knowledge with others. Very much appreciated. God bless you.
Thanks for the great comment Tony. Glad it was helpful.
Thanks mate! Great tutorial……..you just saved me about $400. Will shout you a beer if I see you out on the water for sure!
Cheers Scott. Glad it helped you out. 🍻
You're an absolute star, priceless! Only wish there was a shard of info on why on earth I'm seeing oil leaking from the water intake when refilling the gearbox oil (bottom up like you). I'll keep searching, but this is a keeper for sure! Thanks from Gothenburg Sweden!
Looks like it could be a drive shaft oil seal that needs replacing, thanks to you I now know how
Thanks Niklas. Glad it was helpful.
Well done and thank you. Appreciate the straight forward video. The beer was the perfect finish CHEERS!!
No worries mate. Glad it was helpful. 🍻
Your video is the most complete service procedure that I have seen. Thanks so much. It really help me to do mine. You are awesome!!!
.
Your welcome Emmanuel. Don't forget to share it with your boating friends and thanks for watching.
Thanks! I have the same motor and need to do the impeller and this is a far better video than the other one I found for this motor.
You are welcome!
top video, laid back but full detail, I dont normally comment but praise where needed. I especially like the beer at the end bit! as its 35C here today!
Cheers Steve hope it was helpful. 🍻
Excellent video for me as new owner of BF20. Got engine and gear oil changed already, but for impeller nice to get guidelines before taking action. Thank you! Cheers from Finland.
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
best video on how to properly service a Honda 30hp outboard motor and very educational, good presentation, Thank you.
Thanks for that Daniel. Glad it was helpful. 🍺
4:30 try MEK (Methyl ethyl ketone) for cleaning gasket surfaces. You can throw away all the sharp objects, stuff comes off in 2 wipes.
Came here to see if you need a gasket for the impeller, was not disappointed.
Good video although you missed some In my opinion important things; doing maintenance is also a checkup if everything is in good shape.
You say that you’re examining things; but for your audience (someone that’s not a mechanic wanting to do maintenance), they don’t know what for:
So color of oil; the shrapnel magnet bolt on the gear oil; checking the drive shaft oil seal, for fishing line behind the thrust washer; prop damage inspection (no prop comes out as new; what’s the limit?). Maybe carb clean etc? On older carb models, if they’re not setup right (ie synchronized, clogged jets).
Keep Making videos my man!
Thanks for the tip. 👍
@PointlessMiracle maybe you know how tight the propeller bold must be screwed on when installing a new prop?
I did mine like hand tight, but maybe the rubber sealing inside must be compressed fully and the thrust washer must be completely pressed against the messing prop bush?
Any advise here is very much welcome ❣️
@BornAgainBoating Thanx for the great video, I have all the service manuals, but its a lot easier the way you explain stuff... Great work, even after 4 years...
BF135 Service manual in the prop (castle) nut:
18 mm CASTLE NUT
INSTALLATION:
TORQUE:
1 N.m (0.1 kgf.m, 0.7 lbf.ft)
If the split pin cannot be set by tightening to
the specified torque, tighten the castle nut
additionally until the split pin can be set.
MAX. TORQUE:
44 N.m (4.5 kgf.m, 33 lbf.ft)
For comparison: the bolts of the gear case must be tightened at a torque of 34 N.m (3.5 kgf.m, 25 lbf.ft).
The maximum torque of a human hand on a screwdriver is 16Nm..
"Hand tight" is somewhere between 4 and 10 Nm depending who you ask...
So 1Nm on the castle nut is a very light torque, yet, my question remains, you feel the rubber ring of a new prop compressing when tightening the nut, but I used more than "light torque" of 1Nm, should the rubber ring inside the prop be compressed or not?
@@MarcoYolo420 honestly I don’t know, I commented on this video because I am not very familiar with outboard maintenance (but am with other mechanic stuff) and wanted to give good feedback because this guy has great potential !
@@PointlessMiracle Gotya, and fully agree, this guy should be hired for making content like this...
About the nut, manual sais 1nm and max 44nm, so basically saying, pick your number... I think its fine...
A super good video with detailed explanation. This is the best video I have seen so far. Many Thanks for your effort
Thanks Stefan. Be sure to share it with your boating friends. 👍
Thanks for an excellent video. We've now serviced our dinghy motor and it's running!
Your welcome. Glad it was helpful.
Amazing video brother thank you for posting this. I just bought a boat with a 75hp Honda and will need to do everything you've shown. Although I expect some things to be slightly different your video was helpful to me. Cheers from Canada!
Thanks for the great comment mate. Glad it was helpful and good luck with the new boat.
More info in this video than I got anywhere else online. Thank you
Thanks for checking it out mate.
Pretty good video. I always use dish soap when putting my impeller into the impeller housing, it lubricates the initial start up but then biodegrades as to not pollute the lake. Don’t think it really matters though. Love my Honda bf35.
Great tip! Thanks for watching
Thanks. You helped me figure out why I keep popping out of reverse. The marina changed my impeller and hooked the linkage up wrong. It’s fixed.
Glad it was helpful Thomas. 👍
from the welsh wafu brilliant no frills video well explained to the expert and novice alike. well done
Thank Haydn. Glad to hear it’s helpful.
Great work! My Honda outboard need a full service. I do have some semi pro mechanics and skilled amateurs to guide me and also lend me tools but this didn't look deterrent. I THINK I can do it
I know you can do it. 👍
There is a 5th bolt on 2005 BF50A lower unit. It’s under the tab trim anode.
G'day to you. Can I offer you a bit of friendly advice.I have had my own boat service shop for the last 26 years. There was a couple of things you missed. 1/ No compression test. 2/ What about the anodes. They help prevent the motor corroding away. They must have a clean contact with motor casings. Ask a dealer where they are and have spares. They rot away. 3/ No Inox/ crc/wd40 sprayed on the motor always the last thing to do. 4/ Its always a good idea to degrease the motor from top to bottom. Don't worry when you hose it down water can't get in where it shouldn't be. 5/ Absolutely no reason to put grease on links etc. It only makes a mess and gives dirt and dust some where to stick when your towing to and from the water.6/ Get yourself a proper water trap/ fuel filter, it will save the day in the end and they aren't costly. 7/ When you reconnect your gearshift don't try and change gears without turning your prop shaft. This will line up the dog clutch with the dogs on the gears and you won't strain any of the mechanism. 8/ This might cost a couple of bob if you can't do it but clean the inside of the lower casing behind the prop and there is a bearing carrier in there. Remove it and replace the prop shaft seals. Reseal it with grease All Over it when you put it back in.This is an important step. If anything goes wrong inside and you haven't had it out in a couple of years time you stand a chance of breaking the gear housing to dissmantle your gear box. It is actually supposed to be done every 150 hours. At a dealer it would be called a MAJOR SERVICE. 9/ Service your battery. Clean your terminals and leads. Check the motor wiring especially the earth connections. Every time there is an electrical issue there will be an earth problem along with it. I hope you don't think I'm a prick or the like's but its free advice from someone who's done this for 53 years in total. Some of these things might help you. I hope so. Regards.
Hi chris. Thanks for the feedback. I did forget to mention a couple of things like the anodes. Some of it I check prior to each trip such as the battery terminals which I could have explained. This is just showing how easy a basic service is. Thanks for watching.
Great info. However, I never use WD40 or Inox or CRC as it softens the wiring insulation. Landline was recommended by my Honda dealer
@@iankidd6654 what is Landline?
@@CUBICHI1985 I think he means Lanolin spray - the stuff you get from sheep's wool.
@@ChippyOZ I've never heard of lanolin spray.. does it not damage plastic parts under the cowl of the outboard, like (presumably) WD40, CRC and others do..???
Really helpful , no dramas and all straight forward, thanks for the knowledge
Thanks for watching it John.
found you off another channel man, will always support small you-tubers like us, looking forward to your future content!
Hay only just saw your comment as UA-cam put it in spam for some reason. Thanks for checking it out and I see your doin similar stuff. I like your work.
I changed the impeller on last weekend. The only tricky phases were taking the gear changer rod off and back to the engine. The two nuts had to be fully opened and even tighten a bit in order to separate the rod parts. I managed to get the forward position on by accident when pulling the leg off due to it wasn't separated fully yet. It is very difficult to put the gear back to neutral when the leg is taken off.
Yeah the gear rod is the hardest part. good job on doing it yourself.
@@AusAdventure I guess it is very easy after it has been done once. But if it is done only once in e.g. 5 years there might be problems to have the procedures clear in mind again. One thing was that the leg's internal surfaces were full of dirt (mud from the lake bottom). Perhaps I should remove and clean the leg more often. If you have deep waters where you keep your boat there are no such issues... Anyway... many thanks for your video due to it is the best and it was about the same size as an engine as mine is!! I wouldn't have the courage to do the job without a good example.
Thanks for posting this video, man. It’ll help me to service my 75-hp Honda main motor and 8-hp Honda kicker.
Glad it was helpful mate. 🍻
Great video watched this last night and bought the stuff today to service my Honda 50hp
Awesome content great work from Aus
Thanks Dean. Glad it was helpful.
Good job, very detailed best servicing video I've seen
Thanks mate.
This video was amazing and super helpful in serving our new Honda 30hp motor. If you ever clean out your carbs that would make a great video also!!!
Thanks for making this
Your welcome Jennifer, glad it was helpful. Make sure you check out my video on changing the internal engine anode on the BF 30. Cheers 🍻
Just a suggestion (and I haven’t finished watching the entire video yet) let people know how long it takes you to the entire job at the beginning or end of your videos please. Great video/audio and very informative!!!
Good suggestion Curtis. Takes me about 3 hours to service the engine. I just go pretty slow.
No big twig but there the difference in motor oils that you didn’t add is what would be pulled into the new empty filter..just a thought.. Aside from that I learned a few things and gained a little confidence watching this!
Thanks!
Cheers mate. I did check the oil again after I ran the motor to account for the filter filling up and it was actually still at a good level so didn't end up adding any more. I was a little surprised. Glad it was helpful and thanks for watching.
Top notch video mate. Appreciate the info and ease off instruction. Thanks
Glad it was helpful. 🍻
Nice video Very informative I purchased a 2011 BF20 Honda Outboard motor and will also be servicing my motor
Greetings from Canada
Thanks mate. Glad it was helpful.
Was looking for service for a smaller engine an got. Your video. Watched it very clear an informative. Thanks and subbed from minnasota. USA.plan to watch more of your content..Cheers Sir.
Thanks Richard. I’m glad it was helpful and cheers for subscribing. 🍻
This is my outboard and I love it. Thanks for the video.
No problem. Thanks for watching.
@@AusAdventure Are you happy with this outboard so far? I have heard some negative things about if from other owners. I've experienced some issues with the fuel system and carburators. Mine doesn't idle properly, and sometimes it dies when going from WOT to idle.
David North I have been very happy with it. Mine is a 2008 model and I have owned it since 2010. I service it every year and I flush it for at least 10 minutes after every use. I have never had any fuel issues or any issues for that matter. Any motor that is not looked after properly will experience issues. You don’t know how well others look after their engines too so you have to take others opinions with a grain of salt sometimes.
I have a 2012 with no issues. The thing about these is they are extremely sensitive to ethanol. If you leave fuel with ethanol in them, you're going to have carb problems. Doesn't matter what additives you use, they won't help.
I use a small pour of additives on each fillup (seafoam) plus ethanol free 90 fuel. Never once had an issue. Just ran it after a 50 day break, fired up first turn.
Just a thought
On my outboard which is an older BF45A there is a fifth bolt under the anode plate holding the leg on. Need a 12mm wrench to get it out.
You make great videos.
Thanks mate.
Excellent how to! One question, how do you get your muffs to run enough water through, is the clamp the trick? I have the same engine and can't get mine to run enough water through the system, but haven't tried clamping it.
Yep the clamp is the key. Mine won’t run enough water without it either. Cheers for watching Harry.
That clamp holding the leg on the bench scared me. You had more faith in it than I did
It’s never failed me. 🍻
Absolutely fantastic video very nicely done my friend
Thanks mate.
I still utilize my 84 Mariner 15, and 96 Yamaha 30hp but I mainly run a 17' Flat with a 40 mount swapped to my 2017 50 Honda courtesy of my cousin. Great for beaver dams.
Just like watching my uncle working on his OMC motors after the seasons over, he still uses them👍
Yep if you look after stuff it lasts a long time.
I've just got a 15hp honda 4stroke on a 4m fishing boat.
Tested it before I brought it and the water wasn't squirting alot but his muffs were shit.
I got it home put some decent muffs on and it's not squirting water at all. Turned it off after about 20 seconds. Had a look where the water feeds into and took that little gauze off and found what looks like little bits of rubber. This might be from the impeller.
Mate I would put money on it that your impeller is stuffed.
@@AusAdventure yeah I've watched your video and another one that actually showed the little bits of rubber that I seen. Cheers for this video ill get a few parts together and do a full service. Obviously the guy I brought it from hadn't taken care of it too well.
@@AusAdventure ok, yep impeller has no impellers left.... I found a few down the bottom in the pick up about 4 little rubber nobs and when i pulled the pump off another lose 1 so hopefully the rest went somewhere else NOT UP THE INTAKE..
also the oil filter has 2014 on it so I'm guessing the "service last year" was a lie.
@@peterk7377 yeah sounds like they were not exactly honest. Sometimes those bits of rubber get stuck in the tell tail port so I would clean that hose out also.
Super good how to diy video!! Now im confident to do this by my self :D thx from Sweden
Thanks mate. Glad it was helpful.
Bro much love bredren best video out there just getting the boat back on the water soon er then later because of you you actually just reminded me about the thermostat as well can't wait to catch that first Ono or mahi-mahi chee hoo!!! Much aloha from Hawaii 🤙
Aloha brother. Glad the vid helped you out. 👍🤙
Simply excellent, nothing else to add
Cheers Kurt. Thanks for watching it.
A great video!!!! I feel comfortable doing it all now, except for the impeller. But you made it look so easy next year I'm saving 500 American dollars
Thanks Ben. Glad it was useful 🍻
Brilliant, No Bullshit instructional video, Thanks Mate, I have the BF40 and none of my spark plug sockets fit even though they are the right size for the plug, did you use a special socket?
Thanks mate. Yeah usually you need a specific spark plug socket or at least a deep socket. I use a deep one.
Terrific - thank you very much! I can't get the gear case off but now I'm convinced it's just that the dowel pin is seized in place. Out with the plastic mallet!
Cheers mate. Glad it was helpful.
Very Best video I've found to help me with the BF50A Honda I bought a couple weeks ago!!! Thank You. *Biggest issue I was worried about was the gear linkage when changing the water pump impeller. Thanks for that clarity!
Well done!!
Im glad I could help you out mate. Happy boating
Great video. When changing the gear oil your supposed to pump in it until it overflows, let it sit for a bit to let bubbles out, then pump some more. Least thats what I am told.
I wouldn’t have thought there would be enough air bubbles to adversely effect it, especially when filled from the bottom. Nice tip though and thanks for watching.
@@AusAdventure yeah if you watch this guys video (ua-cam.com/video/1XwmVisnVco/v-deo.html) at 16:55 he burps his and adds a bit more grease
Did mine this week, had major trouble working out why I had no tell tale water afterwards though. Turns out the short rubber hose on lower leg wasn't mating with the tube coming down from the engine 😳, watch out for this..
Excellent video, helps us a lot to be able to maintain our engines, I wish you did one of band change, thank you very much.
Thanks for watching it Fernando.
cheers bromther, i am servicing my Honda BF25A from this guide. It's identical. You just saved me a ton of money, cheers lad
No worries. Glad it helped you and thanks for watching.
I bought a 50 Honda BF 50I’m going to do everything you just did in the video but what I wanted to know is should I spray the carburetors down first to clean them out I think this motor hasn’t been serviced in a while thanks for your support
Hi Doolie, if the carbies have stale fuel in them it would be a good idea to drain it out. I have never had to do it myself so I can't give you any further info on how to do it. I am just about to upload a video in which I change the internal engine Anode which may be of some use to you so keep an eye out for that video soon. Thanks for watching..
THANKS FOR YOUR VID.
PLEASE TELL US THE COST OF THE PARTS AND WHERE DID YOU GET THE PARTS.
Glad it was helpful. I can’t remember the exact amount but it was close to $250. Got it from the Honda dealer at Runaway Bay Marina. I think they are called Runaway Bay Marine.
Aus Adventure Thanks mate
Aus Adventure I have the same engine proud to own Japanese quality
I have a Honda BF 30 where you have to manually lift up the lever to tilt your lift your motor up and down there's two little springs underneath on that lever nobody seems to know how to put them back together would you know or even have a picture of where their positioned so I can put mine back on that would be great and your video was fantastic thank you
Hi Rich sorry but I can’t help you with that. Have you tried your local Honda service centre.
Thank you just bought a 20hp Honda but i want to go through the whole thing! Awesome video
Thanks for the feedback mate. Glad it was helpful. Please tell your friends about the channel.
looks like thirsty work. great video. I'm confident to do my own servicing now. thanks alot.
Gotta have a beer after a days work. Glad it was helpful Stuart. 🍻
1.7 is without changing the filter 2 is with a filter change but a very good video
My owners manual says 1.6l without changing the filter and 1.7l with changing it. Thanks for watching mate. 👍
Awesome vid mate, thank you!
Now to try the same thing on my 2005 10hp Honda Outboard, wish me luck!
You will be right mate. Cheers 🍻
Best Video for maintenance, thanks a lot
Thanks for watching it mate.
Watched again champion, adds and all. Getting ready to service my motor again as it’s been a couple of years now. 😃👍
Nice 👍
Good video mate. Love the beer at the end.
Cheers mate. Thanks for watching it. 👍
Ive got the exact engine on my boat and I don't know jack eff all about boating. But that was a real good video clip
Thanks mate. Glad it was helpful.
How zit mate!!! I've landed on your channel by accident, but man am I glad I did 😎 subscribed immediately and have been watching your videos for 2 days now. Awesome stuff mate awesome stuff and oh boy this video of how to service your own outboard engine is GOLD 👍 it's a bloody ripoff to take it to a dealer. Get out there and keep the good stuff coming, and be safe 👍👍👍✌🐟⚓🎣⛺
Thanks mate glad you enjoy the vids and hope the outboard video comes in handy for you. Cheers
Super well-done video. Well photographed with all of the important details shown and explained. Thanks for this excellent, informative video.
Glad it was helpful mate. Thank you very much for watching.
Excellent video well done learnt some more from you one of the best I've seen . But there is one question does the gasket in the water pump were it meets the stainless steel plate and the bottom housing need any lube such as a little bit of oil rub on it for a better seal or just put on as is i notice you put it on as is thanks Rick
Thanks Richard. The rubber ring seal can have some grease on it but the paper gasket is fine as is. Thanks for watching the vid mate. 👍
Great video mate will be doing my Honda in six months time myself cheers mate
Cheers mate. Thanks for watching. 🍻
Great video.. One thing-I always have to set the plug gap.....No???
I only check it if the plug has an obvious gap problem. But to be thorough you should probably check it. Thanks for watching the vid mate.
@@AusAdventure Sure thing. I was watching because,even though I take good care of my equipment, the one time in several years we had a few days of hot salmon fishing my 25 horse Honda quit me. running really rough..Tried all the stuff you and I do but no luck so I brought to town to outboard mechanic I trust. THREE weeks out.. No salmon...Don't want to buy a new one age age 76.
Have you got your outboard sorted yet mate?
@@AusAdventure The usual culprit--Carburetors..Damn. I'm so conscientious about using clean gas and keeping my tanks dry etc.,but it seem to be the nature of the beasts..Somewhere, in some holy book, I'm sure there is a reference to the close relationship between the Devil and outboard motors..
(great video)
Hello. If the upper hex section shown in 19:24 doesn't spin freely to remove the lower unit... (gear shifting rod)
Did some moron use red thread locker on it???
What do I do then???
Separating the nut from long hex section was okay.. But the upper portion does not spin to take it apart..
Is there an easy way to get that to twist if it is locked up??
I don't want to break anything.. Thx.
Lower unit bolts all had red threadlocker on them.. Geez..
Other video used CRC Brake Cleaner. Soaked for at least an hour. Hope it works.
Hi Mate I have never had the problem you are having. If there is thread locker on it I can imagine it would be very difficult to remove. The two nuts tight up against each other should be enough to keep them in place. Hope the brake cleaner works for you.
@@AusAdventure thx.
Not yet.. Added WD-40 penetrating oil after a couple hours of brake cleaner. Still stuck.
Will try a barbeque lighter next on the long hex nut. Too tight a spot for a regular torch or heat gun... And rubber mounts nearby.
Is really weird that the upper threads of the long nut are solid.
Where the two nuts hit, those threads are freely moving. Damn.. 😎
Great tutorial! Thank you. I have a BF40 2003 and there is a hose along with the spline that holds the forward & reverse rod. DO you happen to know that is removed?
Sorry mate not sure about that.
Easier way to get those stuck lower unit drain screws out is a big screw driver with a square shaft and a crescent wrench comes right out with no beating.
Good tip mate.
Great video. I have a Honda bf15 and I was wondering if the thermostat would be in a similar spot. Thankyou
Mate I have not had any experience with the 15hp so I can’t say for sure but I would think that it would be easy to identify. Cheers for watching the video.
Thanks for your knowledge bud!
Québec Canada
Your welcome. 🍻
Could you please cover servicing a BF50A tilt mech? Mine is leaking...
Wish I could help you mate but I have never serviced a tilt ram before. Better talk to your local mechanic.
The little thing that holds the impeller is called a Woodruff Key.
What are the best possible spark plugs for the Honda BF 30? Great video, thank you!
Mate I just got the ones that the Honda dealer gave me. Think they were NGK. Thanks for watching the vid.
Sharp clear illustrative photography, gentle presentation, good tips. 1000 thanks. Nice if you did one for my 20 hp. With an old bad back, it’s nice to know how to take apart some of the engines components before lifting it up onto a truck tailgate. Took off the tilts and trim plus the cowling and the propeller to shave down the weight to under under 100 pounds have you dealt with making very heavy outboards lighter temporarily for Transport?this is Curt and Virginia USA
Hi Curt. Glad the vid was helpful. I have never had to make an outboard lighter for transport. You might just need a friend to help you. 🍻
Question ... My motor kills when idling after a few seconds. It's similar to yours Honda BF90A 2001. I have the manual too. Where would you go first? Throttle cable adjustment?
Thanks for the awesome videos on the Honda. I've already done some of my own maintenance. Water pump was easy! Lower gear oil, easy! Thanks again.
I would probably make sure the fuel supply is ok and it’s fresh first. Then you could check the spark plugs are good and then adjust the idle. If still no good the carbys might need a clean or overhaul. Good luck.
@@AusAdventure Throttle stop screw adjustment did the trick!
I was able to adjust it on the water when warmed up.
Wow I have learnt much from this video
I’m glad mate.
Fun fact if you are removing the lower unit on a honda bf40/50 there is a hidden 5th leg bolt underneath the zinc anode thingy. Boy was I swearing trying to get it off with only 4/5 bolts removed.
I bet you were swearing.
Great video. Only thing I’d say is be careful what grease you use on the impeller. Red rubber grease is ok, as is evinrude triple guard, but “marine grease” which are often lithium based with added zinc, will eat away at the impeller. One of those things where it’s probably fine, especially as it’ll be washed out soon as it’s ran. But if you service the boat at the end of the season you don’t want it sat for months like that.
Cheers mate. We don’t really have seasons here. It’s boating weather all year round. 🤙
@@AusAdventure Living the dream 👍