Why I NEVER Flush My Outboard!
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This is an excellent video….with no nonsense, no shenanigans and no silly attempts at being some kind of “video star”…..I appreciated your style and information. I run a 170 Montauk in Southern California- as soon we pull her out we rinse down all hull and internal surfaces, then while towel drying we always flush the engine for the time it takes to dry up and store everything back. I agree with your categories….and requirements
Well thank you! PS: Love the 170 Montauk!
You guys are like the myth busters of boating !!!
Its pretty much one guy, the mythbusters guys are a couple old twats...
I really like your videos!! Thank you very much! I've done alot of work on my outboards because your videos are so informative and helpful.
Thanks, awesome video. Thanks for clarifying the flushing on the flush port while the engine is running. Usually only do it before an oil change to heat up the oil before changing it. All other times I flush as soon I get back to my slip.
I flush after every use since I run in salt water. Every 2 years I change the thermostat so when that’s due I remove the old one and put the housing back on without a thermostat in place. After dropping the lower I mix up some Rydlyme in a 5 gallon bucket, drop in a sump pump and use a old piece of garden hose in the water inlet tube and let it cycle for 3-4 hours. When complete I change the internal anodes and everything looks brand new. Probably overkill but it’s worked well for me
That is to a tee exactly what I do. Well done.
Keep up the good work.
Q
That's the way to go. Thanks for the comment
Agree. I like overkill too when it comes to marine, aviation and offroad stuff. Keep up the good stuff!
I always flush my 200 in a large barrel. If you want to tune up your motor, it's wise to check out your adjustments with the motor in a barrel since it has thru hub exhaust. I've made carburetor adjustments in the past and used mouse ears to test it, only to find out the motor runs differently when it's in the water and the exhaust is under pressure.
Great info! I use a flush bag. But, when I don't have the bag I take the thermostats out before I flush. Also flush with barnacle buster every year.
I have a 2001 Mercury 2 stroke 125. I added the coastal flush kit and hook it up as soon as I pull in the slip. Didn't have it for a few years and I do all my own maintenance and service. The amount of salt built up and corrosion is noticeably less since adding the flush, especially around the Tstat and the block where the tstat sits.
While keeping up with the flushing is important, if you care about appearance, so is prevention of the corrosion taking place on the underside of your T top shown at 13:30.
Those racks with the stacked boats is such a clever storage! Never seen it before
Valid points all. I've pulled my fair share of power heads and I think the most important takeaway is this: The worst thing you can do to a boat is not use it. I'm retired and use my boat at least 4 days a week but usually more in saltwater. I don't flush unless I know I'm not going to use the boat for a while in which case I do flush before any time of storage. What you want to avoid is scaling build up in the cooling galleys. When scaling build up happens, the rust tends to flake up and clog those cooling galleys. If you use your boat on a regular basis like I do, the rust doesn't have a chance to form/build up because every time you use the boat the rust or scaling is flushed out the exhaust and doesn't have a chance to build up. Just my two cents. Great video, thx.
noted
Thanks ! good info, well explained, clear camera shots. You can be a good teacher for mechanics too
Glad it was helpful!
Note new 4 stroke Yamaha's have a fuel cooling circuit. If you don't keep the salt out of it especially silt from running in dirty water it will block it up & your motor will not idle for long when it is hot.
Something else to remember are your zinc anodes .. super important to help avoid corrosion of the aluminum engine parts… flushing just as important .. I use a half drum and run for at least 15 min after every use on my smaller engines
salt water very hot country suzuki 250x2 i flush 10 min by the flushing port at every sorties but it's not enought (have to open the engine to see the build up pretty badly) now every 300H (major servicing) before changing the anode and impeller we run bernacle buster in cycle for 2H inside the engine we hope to keep good cleaning that way
Water pressure alone shouldn't be your only gauge. You need to consider flow rate as well. You can have high pressure, but not enough water volume. Pressure is not volume.
If you're going from one body of water to a different one, probably a good idea to flush to help prevent invasive species.
True
I always flush my motor after every use. I let the motor warm up then shut it off and put dawn soap in the hose. Then I start it back up and let the soap run through the motor for about two minutes then shut it off. My dad has always done this and he didn’t change his impeller on his 03 f225 for 10 years and when we took the impeller out it was still good. No missing rubber or cracks.
Why run degreaser through it?
Such great information that is presented so well.
My boat is on the mooring and after I use the boat I attached a hose with fresh water.
Good episode as usual
Thanks!
My Suzuki 150 manual says not to run the engine in the flush attachment. I suspect it’s because they want to eliminate any chance of burning the impeller. I’ve never run it in the flush attachment only. I have flushed using the ear muff method and usually up the rpm’s slightly just to open the thermostat sooner. The flush method only depends on if I’m being lazy or maybe I’m gonna use the boat again in a few days. For longer term flushes, I prefer the ear muff method. I do use Salt Away but not every flush. Definitely at the end of the season. We boat in the Puget Sound.
@malekodesousa
We too boat in Puget Sound, up north in the San Juan islands near Eliza Island.
I'm curious to understand why if you flush frequently with ear muffs that you don't use Salt away each and every time?
I use ear muffs after every use, run the motor up to thermostat opening temp and the switch to Salt away until the soap comes out of the pee stream.
Just trying to better understand both sides.
Happy boating!
Do you have any videos or can you make one on changing hydraulic hoses on an auto pilot
The outboard used on mored boats never get flushed my 9.8 never was flushed in 20years of use Have never seen or heard of block rusting through
Thanks for sharing.
Never flush mine since Florida great lakes are clean enough
But can you flush the engine while running in the fully tilted up position?
Cool video thanks! New boat owner can get lost in these freaking forums. Proof is in the video. 👌
Thank you!
Nice shades
Thank You!!!
So I run my V8 Merc inboard in salt water and I flush with earmuffs for 15 minutes when I pull her out of the water , is that to long ? Please advise thx
Great video!
always wondered if can be flushed there on that hose connector running the engine
got my answer 👍
I have two 175 Suzuki 4stroke and when we wash it we use the flash attachment and we just let the water run and not the engine is that still cleaning the engine?
Where can I get that salt away gun or attachment that has hose couplings on both sides? On mine, I can't remove the multi function spray head to attach my flush out hose.
so what if i have to flush my outboard (engine off) after the use with the lower unit into the water? Is it almost useless?
I’m a dumb ass. I’ve been “flushing my motor” at the flush attachment but never started the motor after the use
What!?
@@j_rainsgoat3929 I wasn’t running the motor when I was flushing. I was just hooking it up to the attachment and letting the water flow through the motor
@@veeco3110 that's what I thought you were saying. That's hilarious 😂
@@j_rainsgoat3929 such a friggin rookie haha
My dude - how did you accumulate so much boat knowledge at your young age?
on my 2016 zuk 300 I have 2 flush ports , one in front and one in back. Which one do you use and why?
How to make 2 minutes of content into a 15 minute video.
Up here in panhandle of FL. I flush it warm until the water out the bottom doesn’t taste salty. 😝
That is exactly what ido.. people look at me goofy for doing so glad to know I'm not the only one
My 2021 mercury 90 owners manual says to flush using the flush attachment without running, so that’s what I do. I trust the engineers who designed the darn thing. Why run if not necessary. Also could void warranty if you don’t follow manual instructions.
One of the best gauges you can have on an outboard power boat is a cooling water pressure gauge. Gives you a reference to impellor condition while running so you can recognise any changes.
its great for telling pump condition, but if it drops at high speed damage will occur (atleast on 2 strokes) before you know whats happening, and just before your warning horn goes off. of course reducing speed to idle and tapping the primer will help save the cylinders, but most boaters arent experienced enough to know to do that.
I have a 2020 60 HP Mercury on the back of a 150 BW Montauk. Its stays in a slip in salt water from April to October. I run it a couple of times a week on average. I flush after every run every time from the flush port with the engine idling and tilted out of the salt water. Everyone that sees me do that says that I shouldn't. The only problem with that is, the Mercury manual clearly states that you can idle the engine with water connected to the flush port with the motor tilted. Even the local Boston Whaler dealer told me I should not do that. I show them the Mercury manual and they don't want to believe what it says. So finally I call Mercury Tech support and guess what, I was told that it is perfectly fine to run the engine tilted out of the salt water with clean water connected to the flush port as long as the engine is idled. Case closed for me. By the way it was much easier and faster to get to a live person at Mercury Tech support than what I was expecting.
Why I never flush my outboard was a tutorial about flushing…. Great title. I will make sure to avoid your future videos.
Great informative videos, thank you. You did not mention boats on lifts, which is probably a small minority compared to trailered boats. I live in salt water FL canal and always flush my motor as soon as I get it on the lift while the thermostats are still warm and open. Of course the thermostats probably cool and close soon, at least I get a minute of open flush.
All I can say to fellow traveling boaters is that you please courtesy flush…thanks in advance :)
I flushed on a Suzuki flush outlets for years and my Fuel cooler clogged. Not running of course. Doing that Clogged my fuel cooler. In a barrel, issue gone!!! I have those stupid lower water pick ups, so no muffs for me. Want proof about the fuel cooler???? Got videos all about it. Never ever use those, if you run salty, muddy, tannin, DIRT WATER!!
Just did 2 videos, Debunking, that salt away. Didnt work for me!
Great explanation! I wish manufacturers offered a thermostat bypass just for flushing. That should be standard!
most t stats will dribble water, as will the poppet valves/valve through its relief hole. its not bone dry like he claims in most motors.
Great information. I have owned boats for 30 years and this is always a question that goes back and forth among friends with several differing opinions.
Great Video Aaron. I have a 2021 Yamaha SHO 200hp 20" Shaft. I use my boat about 1-3 times a week in S.W Florida. Mostly Brackish water. (Charlotte Harbor) My boat lives on a boat lift, I flush it very time I get back within 10 Minutes. I use the flush attachment on the engine. My Question is how long should I run the engine for? Something else, when I start the water flush I see that water is coming out of all the port on the lower unit, including the water pump intake vents, as soon as I start the enging the water that was coming out of the intake vents stops! Just want to make sure that the impeller is getting enough water. Thanks
it takes 3 gallons of water or so to fill that block, so about 1 full minute and its fine
I have a 2022 Yamaha 150 and tried this... the overheat alarm came on after repeated tries with the motor running. Called the dealer and they said the entire foot needs to be submerged if running. Best is to flush without the motor running. Point is...follow the manufacturers recommendations.
I run in salt water. I’ve had mechanics say To flush on muffs until the thermostat opens. Hot water is better on salt accumulation. Possibly the water volume was too low?
@@dross1492 You wouldn’t need to worry about salt accumulating if you flushed your engine regularly!
I have a 2018 Mercury 40hp 4 stroke in salt water. When fresh water flushing I never have a tell tale draining out is that normal when using the flushing attachment?
I fish the Indian river, which is, for all practical purposes, salt water. About every three or four months, I submerge my Yamaha 50 horse 2 stroke in a 100 gallon tub and add about 6 gallons of white vinegar, and several good squirts of Dawn detergent. I let it run at about 1000 to 1500 RPMs for about 20 minutes, flushing again with regular fresh water for about 5 mins. afterwards. It seems to remove all of the salt and mineral deposits in my water jackets and thermostat housing. What do you think of my method of cleaning the cooling system on my outboard??? Just wanting to do the best thing for my engine to keep her running well.
vinegar is acidic, ad will eventually damage the brass water tube and parts of the cooling system if you just let it sit in there. what does your manual say>? never seen a single manual from any manufacturer recommend acetic acid as a safe cleaning agent.
Up here on the British Columbia coast I don't know of anyone who flushes their outboards except maybe at the end of the season when they haul out. Plenty of old motors and no issues that I'm aware.
Why don't you want to run your engine w/the flush attachment on a 425 yami?
So there's no danger in flushing a hot motor with cold tap water? I would always wait for the motor to cool down a little before flushing
Salt water up north is always cold and about same temp as tap water uses for flushing
I rarely flush .. and only on muffs ...
But I run 250-300 hrs per year... and at least 1/2 an hour each weekend...
Twin 150 etecs now ..
I keep the boat in the water 10-11 months a year.
New impellers and thermostats every two years (500 to 600) hours
Never had cooling issues ...
I can see flushing after use in dirty water, or before storing for several weeks.. but I have put 2000 hrs on sets of out boards .. approaching 10,000 hours of experience of not flushing after each use .. in salt water ...without cooling issues..
You didn’t prove anything because impellers ALWAYS burn out at 17 minutes!
Another great video. Your presentations are always articulate, engaging and to the point. It’s nice to have the flush attachment explained after all these years of having one. As a northern boater I don’t like you say worry much about doing it though. By the time I’ve run it on the muffs warm enough to change the oil at season’s end I figure whatever little silt is in there is probably gone. Those pics of salt water motor cores dissolving into nothing really hurts! 😰
Ears on my 2021 Mercury 30hp for 4-5 minutes after saltwater use. Done with no problems.
wouldn't be a good idea to idle the engine with the hose attachment long enough for the thermostat to open, so everything gets flushed? Btw, who's the girl in blue t-shirt?
I flush and rev the shit out of it also throw it in gear while flushing wont be doing that anymore
I flush with salt away always
B.S. Yamaha impeller sits in stainless cup that sits in nylon housing. It is the nylon housing that will melt when only using flush attachment. Put the muffs on it like the yamaha owners manuel states if you are running it. Flush attachment is for flushing without running the engine.
True hot exhaust may do that if ran a long time
Yamaha does state to flush without motor running using flush attachment in owners manuals
Mercury says it's ok to idle with flush attachment
Tohatsu hmm depends if it's a Honda or tohatsu varies on this. Don't know about Suzy's
The thing is you need to flush the engine with acid and remove thermostats you can check my tutorial how to do it on honda engine make it so it goes in circles for about 2hours to remove salt
Sorry I am going to go against the grain. This video and content kinda sucks. Thanks Captain……
Captain Obvious that is😂😂😂
The Great Lakes, unsalted and shark-free, flush you betcha? Every time we go out.
Living in North Queensland Australia, I have always flushed the engine with some muffs at the wash-down bays provided as soon as I get in, then again when I get home and give the boat a real clean. But will have to find a large bin for flushing at home I think.
So, basically, this video comes down to "Do whatever you want"
you guys are amazing i hate to ask this but im hoping for some help
i have a 225 optimax outboard i can not flush that motor for the life of me, i used the ear muffs no pissing, i bought a strap that plugs the front of the lower unit no pissing, tried the back of the engine method no pissing but when the lower unit is submerge in the water/ ocean perfect pissing. i really hope you may have the answer for me. also i changed the water pump nothing changed.
I flush my big 4-stroke in a large plastic storage container. Go to Lowes and buy a craftstman extra large 65gal plastic storage container, its 20inches in height which is more than enough to cover the 4 water pickups on my Yam F350 V8 by few inches and long enough to fit the lower unit cavitation plates. Fill-er up, works like a charm flushing that big 4-stroke ran the engine for over 15min before winterizing no overheating as long as you leave the hose running in the container with fresh water you good to go. I also drilled a 1 hole at the bottom and installed a simple drain plug using some pvc fitings to drain the water when i'm done, works great and i can store all my winterizing and cleaning supplies when i'm done container comes with a cover for about $35 cheap.
Do you end the flush with salt away? When the soap shows up after we hook up the salt away we shut the engines down and the engines appear to perform much better. We also put a light flush of salt away on the reels after rinsing and the guy who services them has commented on how clean they are.
On my boat I have two 2018 df 140. In one of them I got the code 1-1. The gage reads 17V average. It goes up and down from 15.6Vto 17.8V. When I start the engine, it shows 11.2V and after a minute or so goes up to 17v like I describe above. I cleaned battery terminals and cable connectors. I purchased and installed a new rectifier regulator. I switched the batteries. The problem is still there. What else I can do?
I use a pressure washer to blast all the salt off then you can rub your finger on the motor and taste it to make sure it's all clean of salt no need to run it at all.
I own a honda 225hp and they are known for corrosion on block and heads so i flush it for 30 minutes or more at idle by the lower unit
Years of inshore saltwater fishing..... DOGGING out my 9.9 Mercury 2001 I bought in 2015..... NEVER flushed it. I changed the impeller in 2018.... looked brand new. Never gonna change it again. Still on the water 2-3 times a week. Still never flush it.
I flush for 5 minutes at idle with fresh water and finish with 2 oz of salt away leaving it in the engine to do its work.
So if we leave it in the salt water and boat once a week what should we do?
As an over 40 year mechanic, having worked on most everything under the sun, I apply an industrial diesel standard, by coating the coolant passageways with an epoxy coating, to protect bare metal surfaces from corrosion, the very important thing is, complete and proper surface preparation BEFORE the epoxy coating, and not to over-do the epoxy coating, this includes the head and jackets around the cylinders.
I live by the Great Lakes we put the lower unit in barrels or fish tanks submerge it it’s all freshwater anyhow we flush to get the zebra mussels and stuff like that from accumulating
Wow great video sooo many others stating ..Don’t do!!!…dealer told me the same thing….ok at idle!!!!
My boat stays on trailer, the 2022 Yamaha 250 SHO has multiple intake ports where muffs will not work, so I purchased a flush bag (expensive but works great). After a day fishing, even if I don't have time to wash the boat, the engine is flushed with water, then flushed with salt away. Also soak down the entire boat and trailer with salt away, rinse well then wash the following day.
Another awesome video! Thanks! I watch every week,. What about descaling?(sp?) Do you ever do that?
It's all full of shit ! I run Briggs & Kohler engine ! Who give a crap ! 😂😂😂
I have been unable to use my 181/2 ft boat for a year. Honda 50 main and Honda 9.9 kicker.I fire each motor up in a tank once every month and run between 15 and 20 min.at approx.1200rpm. No milky looking oil if I run it 15-20 min. Run the kiker for only 5 min and condensation forms in engine oil so I get it good and warm befor I shut it off. The muffs fall off too easily. If I dont run it once a month the telltale plugs up with salt.I hope to start using the boat again next week. Viewing in Westcoast Canada. P.S. Boat lives out of water on a trailer. I kept boats tied up in the water and used them frequently when I was younger.CHEERS!!!
You need 0psi for boat intake as long as the motor has water volume your fine
You cannot run a yamaha with the engine on with just the flush port connected to hose. Says it directly in the manual
You actually can’t flush the engine on the flush attachment without the lower unit attached, because the water directly flows down towards the the same tube that is used when what is sent to the motor just the opposite direction . , directly shoots water down to the lower unit to build up back pressure as well as to ensure filling up that area with water, which is exactly where the impeller is. It will have just as much water as if you put the muffs on it. All good advice here, my grandfather never would rev the engine without the big old trash can.
OK ah that's Not the same lower from the motor you started with Good try though 😅😅
I use a bucket. Submerge the entire lower unit plus another 2" minimum. Putting the entire impeller under water.
Meaning it doesn't need to LIFT water from the muffs before it can even lube/cool the impeller.
Had some bad experiences with Yamaha on muffs, burned up brand new impellers (lubed on install with boot butter).
It also puts some backpressure on the exhaust, giving a more realistic idle to see how it runs. And providing a muffler.
The bucket is an old plastic 55 gallon drum. Originally held Merc's -100 antifreeze used in winterizing inboards.
Cut the top off with a long sawzall metal blade, drill a hole for a rubber drain plug in the bottom.
Near the top, drill a 1/8" hole about 2" down and a 1/8th slot going down from the top to the same height as the drilled hole an inch away from it. Then take an 1/8th thich rope, tie a knot in one end. Feed the united end in the hole from the outside going in, knot stops it from going all the way through. Then put the hose between the hole and the slot, pull free end of rope down into slot tightly around hose. Mark where it comes out of the bucket, knot there. Leave a 6" tail to pull the rope in and out of slot with. That holds your hose in place in the bucket and away from the prop.
Plastic 55 gallon drums can be bought as survival or rainwater barrels.
Will Aaron, I was a little skeptical about running your engine while on the flush attachment. So today, to warm the motor before changing the oil in my 2015 40 Yamaha I gave it a try. Ran it for 10 minutes or so at idle and no problems at all.
The good thing about this method is, my motor won't pump water while on the moths. I either need to put it in a bucket or now use the flush attachment.
or you use a tank and run the motor in a fresh water tank after going in salt and getting home
So our brand new Yamaha f150s specifically say in the manual not to run them on the static flush at all.
Can’t run a Honda 150 on the flush port will overheat in just a min or 2. Learned from experience. Didn’t burn impeller but did get an overheat alarm.
Same here with my hondas. I tried flushing with engine running even the the manuel says not to and tripped the overheat alarm.
My thermostats are gutted. They're there in place but gutted. I live in west central Florida, and the water is never so cold anyway. Oh, and I do flush every time, indle only on muffs. It a 2000 Yamaha 115.
with the yamaha F150 four stroke, does flushing using the hose attachment flush the exhaust side with the engine off?
What about a rebuilt powerhead. Are people buying pre-corroded blocks. heads, etc?
Lol, in some cases yes lol :/ depending on where and who you buy it from, unfortunately
False False False… NEVER EVER run your engine while flushing this way. This broke has no idea!!!
Only ever run the engine with earmuffs on!
Im going to run rydlyme in a 5gal bucket. The thurmostat should open up when it heats up the water a bit. Ill shut it off and let it soak before it gets too hot.
Why not take the thermostat out
You can pretty much guess that the people who have “burnt” them up using a flush hose were either reviving the engine or the impeller was on the way out already or both. I have known people who are proud of the fact that they have 5 seasons on the impeller… usually right before they overheat the engine and ruin it, then they aren’t proud anymore.