How To Change Your Water Pump Impeller Honda 75/90
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- Опубліковано 2 лип 2024
- *** ALL SCREWS ARE RIGHTY TIGHTY LEFTY LOOSIE *** Due to filming some shots in selfie mode and producing these all on my cell phone some images may be backwards.
Hey everyone today we go over the Honda 75/90 water pump impeller change. I show you how to drop the gear case swap the impeller and put it all back together. With a few tricks along the way I try to make this as painless as possible. Below is a list of tools and part numbers for the water pump service kit you need.
Tools:
Vice Grips, Grease, Rags, Razor Blade, Rubber Mallet, 2 Flat Head Screw Drivers or Small Pry Bars, 6mm Allen Key, 14mm Deep Socket 3/8" Drive and Ratchet. 14mm Combination wrench or Open/Box Ended.
Water Pump Service Kits: ( just impeller, gasket, o-ring and key way)
BF 75/90 AT, AW Early Mercury Case (usually has black paint and metal housing cover)
06192-ZW1-305
BF 75/90 AX DK0-DK2
06192-ZW1-000
BF 75/90 DK4-DK5
06192-ZY9-H00
Full Rebuild Kits with New Housing:
BF 75/90 AT, AW
06193-ZW1-305
BF 75/90 AX
06193-ZW1-B03
BF 75/90 DK0-DK2
06193-ZZ0-000
BF 75/90 DK4-DK5
06193-ZY9-H01
If you have trouble you can refer to Honda Marine's website or boats.net for more info. If you get into trouble you can contact me or take it to your local dealer. If you are under warranty do yourself a favor and have the dealer do the service so you are always covered under that warranty. Good Luck with your impeller change!!!!
Wouldn’t done it without your video I didn’t know what to do with my 60hp Honda. Thanks a lot
Dude man thanks so much for this video! Never would tackled it with out! 👍👍
You have done agood job explaining the problems that can arise when changing an impeller, especially the tip with the vice grips, this will save a lot of headaches when putting back together. Think I will tackle this on my BF90, thanks a lot.
Excellent video! I followed these instructions step by step and it worked out perfectly. THANK YOU!!!
EXCELLENT Instructional video. Thank you.
Thanks for the video, Rob. It was just what I needed. 🤙
Just picked up a 2006 honda 130 great tip on the drive shaft with Vice grips am going to mark the the position of the grips before I start to remove the bolts hope to save the wiggle of the lower unit when you put it back on
Many Thanks for the video you did a great job.
Hello Captain Rob, just wanted to thank you for the instructional video on replacing the water pump on a Honda outboard. With your help I was able to replace the water pump on my 2003 Honda BF 50 and it works great. Bill Buckley Gainesville Fl.
Glad to hear that Bill! Thank you for the kind words. It means a lot!
Well Done Rob, I really enjoyed watching your video, very helpful too!
Great video. Very helpful. Easy to follow.
Just fixed mine, everything works great. Thankyou
Very informative video. Thank you for sharing it.
Thanks Rob, I not only had the knowledge, but the confidence to change my impeller, engine oil and gear lube all because of your videos. I like that you list tools required and any tips that make the job that much easier. I made the tin funel to change engine oil, it worked as promised. Thanks for all your help...I wouldn't have done this work without your videos. Keep up the great work. Safe boating.
Thank you Wayne! It's nice to get responses like this. Lots of criticism out there expecting me to have a budget and a film crew. That's not me. You can always contact me if you have questions about your motor. Thanks again!
@@captainrobthompson8728 Thanks Rob...that's nice to know.
Great video. Learned how to do mine now. 👍
Very useful and thorough instruction that I you very much!
Great teaching video! Much appreciated.
Very detailed information, thanks for sharing...
Thanks for a great video, thank you, from Canada
Extremely helpful! Thanks!
Excellent video!❤
VERY GOOD, HAVE NOW DONE MY OWN MANY THANKS.
Great video, thanks.
Awesome vid man … thank you … soooo helpful
You are the man great video thanks from Portugal have a nice new year for you and your family .....
You too! If you ever run into trouble contact me. I have see the euro version. Have a great new year from Center Moriches, New York!!!
@@captainrobthompson8728 Thank you my friend best regards
Great video nice explanation !
You’re the man!! Thanks for the help
Thank you for this video. Did this on a 95 BF50 and it worked great
I just got a 95 BF50 and I'm getting nothing from the pee hole, so I guess I have to do this too...
What grease did you use?
Awesome video Rob. Will be doing this at the weekend on my Honda 40hp. Guessing it is pretty similar
How did it go? I've got a Honda BF40A I'll be doing this job on. Any tips to share or hassles you encountered?
Thanks for the reply!
very clear video thank you man
Great help! Thanks
Nice Video, see you from germany❤
Great video!!! You're a pro! Is it basically the same install as a BF 115? Thanks. That's what I have.
Great video. I especially like the real-time part of installing the lower end and the sometimes necessary adjusting.
I have a '06 carb model. Do you think a brand new FI would be significantly quieter and better fuel economy? My wife is giving me the go ahead on a new motor as she wants it to be quieter and got wind that the boat only gets about 3-4 mpg which is hard for her to accept when she drive a Prius.
Would like to see you do a video on replacing the timing belt.
Hey Steve I have had both the carb and 90 efi. It is quieter and a tad better on fuel. Your at the year range to really start thinking about a new motor before you just dump money in an old motor. Let her know that this is the best motor she can get. It is extremely efficient the waist is in the prop slips in the water. That's where we lose it like tires spinning on ice til it grabs. Try to run around 4200rpm and don't let it idle to much. You 'll be the cleanest boat out there emissions wise. Go get that efi!
Hahaha,,, Lefty Loosie. I was wondering why it looked like reverse threading on that... Thank you so much for posting this video Capt Rob.
Is there anything that needs to be done to disconnect the shift rod for the carb model of the 75/90?
Thanks I changing mine after get parts was done 5years age. Figure its do..Mine has has water come out were the shaft you has vise grips holding so does not fall down ,Doesn t look like water comes out there on yours from video ? I have 75hp looks same, tho .
Hey Rob, thanks for the very helpful video. Couple questions: When you remove and install the bolts for the impeller housing it looks like a left handed thread in the video. Also when you install the housing over the new impeller you say to rotate the impeller "clockwise" but in the video it looks like it's counter clock wise. Must be your video is reversed and the bolts are actually right handed thread and the impeller actually rotating clockwise? Thanks for the clarification.
You got it. The camera is backwards in selfie mode so I can control it. They are right handed bolts and almost all outboard engines are clockwise rotation. Your the first to mention it out of a bunch of videos I made. Thanks for watching.
Yes
Exactly my question.
CLOCKWISE!!
Great video Rob, have a question. I have a 96' 40hp Honda 4 stroke carburetored. I dont always get water from the tall tell... usually when I've been in gear running and idle down and go to neutral, but after I restart and engine it will usually start again. I have idiot warning light and buzzer alarm for engine over heating which I know works but was wondering what might be causing this. Also motor does not like running on muffs far as pumping water, never will discharge water from tall tell, but will from tank.....thanks
Ok I've come across this a long time ago. I believe you also have a water pick up above the prop under the cavitation plate. Put a big piece of tape over it so you can run on muffs then you can see it to remember to pull off. As for the week stream lots of them do that. Keep a paperclip on board to clear the overboard or piss tube. Sometime snapping the throttle. But off you run it without the tape the impeller maybe weak. I would look into a new waterpump. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching Makin Do Catfish!!!!
Hi Captain. Thank you for the tutorial. Can you make a new one explaining how to change the fuel filters and whater separator? Thank you. Here is Alberto from Italy
Alberto. I did do one on the high pressure fuel filter I think? The low pressure fuel is the white one on top that's easy. The other is behind the 3 screws in a triangle. One oring behind there and a filter. On boats.net you can get the schematic picture to show you what it looks like. I hope that helps instead of waiting for the video. Lol! Thanks for watching from Italy! Your not in Napoli or Palmero are you? That's where my wife's family is from. A huge Italian car fan and great cook!
@@captainrobthompson8728 I will look at it. Thank you very much. I'm from Venice! North of Italy!
Very cool!!! Thanks again
@@captainrobthompson8728 do you use the flush connector to wash the engine? In mine hona BF90D when I try to use it the wather is not flowing.
Thanks so much! I’ve done smaller engines but always paid for the 90hp honda. Just finished and it was easy. Just curious is it normal for water to come out of the upper seam, above where the lower unit bolts up? Mines been doing that for awhile, before I did the water pump but now I’m curious. Thank you.
Thanks Brandon! Yes sometimes it does if the pickup tube has leak by. The seal on the back of the waterpump housing may not be as tight and you get blowby. You may want to change that out. Thanks for watching!!!
We just got a 2010 Honda 90 on a pontoon boat so have been going through it. I followed your instructions and it was perfect... only had one issue. My new impeller had straight fins and there was no way that I could get them inside the housing. Since my old impeller was still in good shape I ended up putting it back in. So question is: is there a trick to getting the new impellers installed? You really didn't elaborate on how to install it so I assumed it was pretty simple.. but it wasn't for me. Any helpful hints? Thanks... loved your detailed explanation and instructions.
Ok no problem. The fins are straight because the have no memory like the old one. When you put the housing over the impeller you turn the drive shaft and press down. Turn clockwise. This will drag the fins and bend them together and almost slide into the cup in the housing. Make sure there is a lot of grease or lub on the impeller. Just push the housing down and turn the drive shaft clockwise. It will jump in there. Let me know if you have any issues getting it in. Make sure it's the correct impeller to. There are a few for the 90s. Good luck!
Thanks for the video Rob! I have a 2004 BF115 and think I may have turned the shaft counterCW when putting the new impeller in to seat it in the base. It was my first time and another UA-cam video said to do it CCW. I put the boat in the water and the overheat buzzer went off immediately when I left the landing so I turned around and pulled it back out of the water. Not sure if I have a big blockage in the water line somewhere or maybe the impeller fins are going the opposite direction, which I can reverse. Any thoughts?
Hey Paul. Ok, so was it pumping any water? Don't worry so much about the fins. Let's see how much water your pushing. When removing impellers a lot of the time we see some fins going backwards. So make sure you passage way from the engine block to the plastic telltail is clear. Second pull your thermostat. If it's hot and your alarm goes off if you pull the thermostat it should be open if not time to change. Of put in a pot of water and bring up the temp. It should open. While your thermostat is out let the engine run a bit and see if it pushes out any chunks of salt or scale. Then put back together. One last thing at this point. Did you have a complete meltdown before you changed the pump? If so your housing could be restricting flow or even impeller pieces along the way get stuck. In the pick up tube and float around the block til they can escape. I hope that helps for now. Keep me posted!!!!
@@captainrobthompson8728 Thanks for the feedback Rob! I actually am a novice and dont know where the thermostat is and never had it off. No meltdown. The tell-tell was just getting lower so I decided time to change the impeller (for the first time). I just started it in a barrel of water and zero water from the tell-tell at all....so maybe a major clog somewhere? I will try to look up a new thermostat and replace that too just because...if I can find the right one.
Follow up, I am embarrassed to admit, but I took the lower unit off again and pump cover off and it seems I put the thicker gasket under the big plate, cutting off water flow. I had to look at your video a couple times for that to click. I put it back together, took thermostat out to test run and its flowing again. I ordered a new thermostat too. Salt water does wonders on parts. Thanks again for your video and help. If you dont mind, I may ask for help in the future...might have to send you some donations along the way. :)
I'm just glad you back tracked and found the glitch! Your good to go now! Thank you for watching and reaching out!!!
Great video, I have a 5 year old BF100A. I guess it is pretty much the same. Also is it possible you could do a video on changing the 2 thermostats as it appears quite common for them to clog.
Thanks again
Hey Ian. I have not worked on the BF100. But I did do some background dirt work on it. I see it's attached or shared with the intake manifold. That's a problem you can't flush and run it at The same time. The block is a bit different where it gets 11percent more horse power than the 90. It's a different breed of cat So it's not gonna be the same. This leads me to why it's getting clogged. You should replace them when you do a water pump. Always together. I'm guessing your in salt either a muddy location or sandy? If its clogging you should probably run a ridlyme or saltaway in a bucket to break it down and clean the block. If your in shallow try to trim up more so your not touching bottom. This pulls in a lot of sand or mud. I've even seen some blocks get packed way beyond the thermostats. I think a good flush maybe the ticket to keeping the therms in good shape. I also keep paperclips on board to clean out the pee tube if need be. I hope that helps. You can also look at a schematic on boats.net and get the parts you need if you take this on. Just remember the intake manifold bolts are suppose to be torqed to a set poundage. There is a lot to it. Try the saltaway first. Good luck!
@@captainrobthompson8728 Hi Rob, thanks for the reply. Please can you explain a bit more about. What you mean when you say ‘ I see it is attached or shared with the intake manifold. That’s the problem you can’t flush and run at the same time. I always flush my engine with ear muffs, (rather than the flushing port) but I am never sure if the thermostats have opened. Saltaway recomends runing at 1500 RPM
Thanks again
Sure! Normally a thermostat is on top of the block and the bolts holding the cap are just for that thermostat. When it's shared with the intake the air/fuel can not get to the head. So you can't run with the therm cap off to flush the block. You can still flush on a hose just don't run the engine if you hook up to the hose fitting. You can on micky mouse ears but just be careful it doesn't slide off and starve the engine for water. A bucket is the best way to run it even a garbage can. I hope that's better.
@@captainrobthompson8728 Hi Many thanks for the reply, much clearer now. I think the dealer forgot to replace both Thermostats but has done now. I took it out at the weekend, seems OK now. But just wondering your thoughts on leaving the thermostats out all together, bearing in mind the water temperature here in Western Australia ranges from 64 degrees F to 75 degrees F.
Western Australia!!!! I wish I was there helping you out. Send me some pics whedn your out on the water. captainrobthompson@gmail.com Ok so no thermostats. We use to do that on some older two strokes and racing motors but not 4strokes and I'll tell you why. What happens if it run cold and not at temp. The rings of the piston do not seat or seal correctly and you have fuel pass by into the crank case. You will then look like your making oil. It will get a little coffee colored and smell like gas. Then it breaks down your oil the level goes up til it compromises the lower cylinder. It's just a huge mess. I would get an extra set of therms and a gasket to keep on hand. Have fun there! Do you ever catch any dogtooth tuna?
Are the bolts on the impeller housing reverse thread?
Awesome work, looking forward for more of your videos. 2 questions: do you drain the gear oil before changing the impellar? 2nd: why is it that my engine idles really low when i have the engine cover on like its suffocating, and when i take it off it runs perfect? Could this be something to do with the impeller needing to be replaced?
Thanks Darrell! I like to drain the oil before just incase you have water in the gearcase. Then you know you have to do seals 2 of which are under the wwterpump. The idle thing. Sometimes it's an air restriction in the cover check that out. The other I've seen is an exhaust leak where the motor was breathing it's own fumes but it was not running smooth. Check the air breather in the cowling and see if anything is in there? Good luck!
Hi cpt. Rob, hope all is well, so im looking for this part# 18221-zv4-000 and it seems to be discontinued. Would you happen to know where i could find one. You were right about the air restriction. It was sucking in its own fumes
18221 is not coming up. What part are you looking for?
@@captainrobthompson8728 hi rob, if you can forward me your email address i can forward the part# and name of it, its the plate exhaust seal. I would like to also attach the picture of the seal too
captainrobthompson@gmail.com
Thanks for the vid men! What kind of grease did you use?
No prob! Any type if your in a pinch. Otherwise a multipurpose or marine grade will work great.
Hey Rob. Thanks for the tips. I have a ‘94 Honda 35. Do you know if the impeller kit is the same for the 35 as the one in your video on the 40? Thanks in advance.
Ooh I think that's different. Check the Honda marine website to be exactly correct. Some gearcases in the 90s where mercury if they have metal intake holes and black paint under the oyster silver.
Thanks for the info Rob. I appreciate it.
What is the tub of grease you are using ?
Captain,
Have a 50hp Honda 4 stoke 99 while replacing water pump, the bottom "Housing Water Pump"( Also Plastic) that the gasket & stainless plate cover up, the center part where the shaft comes thru the plastic is not smooth... the old gasket Just in the center around shaft, was rusty looking & had to scape off, can I try & smooth out plastic, grease & put back together..? (should I use a liquid gasket in addition to new gasket to seal better)
it will take another week to get the part needed to replace. willing to do that to get back in the water over the holiday weekend....Your Thoughts Bob Fla
Nope don't smooth it. Just grease the hell out of it slap down the metal plate and gasket then the rest of it. You'll be fine. It's not worth the effort and it's not going to hurt anything. Have fun this weekend!!!
Due vibration, should I put a locktight on outside bolts instead of grease?
Nope not at all. Your just stopping the salt from binding up the threads. Grease is all you need. It's the same for Mercury Yamaha Suzuki Tohatsu Etec. The only thing I would lock tight is a trim tab zinc on Yamaha's.
On an 8 HP Honda, there are two screws to hold the gear in the middle, can the gear be release in reverse, or does it have to be in neutral? Thank you
I believe it can come out either way. The best is to look on a schematic. I think it's a stair style shift shaft that is just a push. It's been a long time though.
Hi Rob, I have a stuck BF75 lower unit . I have a gap and have tried large flat heads and it won't budge . Bought motor up to temperature prior to trying as well. Water pump is pumping currently. Also notice water coming from the weep hole near gear lube checker plug. Is this normal? Gear lube is coming out green and a bit milky. Appreciate your thoughts.thanks
Hi Justin sorry I didn't see this. You have salt packed around the bushing up the drive shaft. You need to put a coat hanger about 24" long with the end cut off in a drill and guide it around the area of the drive shaft. You'll need to break away the salt to get past the bushing. I've done this a few times. Usually with an old control cable. It's flexible and has a lot of wires coming out the end that tear up all the salt. I run it in the drill to keep the end spinning and eating the salt.You will not pull it through. I tired a boat up one to a steel building frame. 18 Scout. And the tired the gearcase up to a dodge truck we tried to drive it out. Nope Yellow strap didn't break the back end of the truck just kept spinning tires. I was only a tech for a year or so following the senior guys. We had to come up with a better plan. Once you hear squeeling when you start or shut off the engine that's the sign salt is building up on the drive shaft bushing. Good luck that's a hard one to get at.
@@captainrobthompson8728 thanks for the reply. When you revove the cowling around the mid section there are two holes exposing the vertical shaft. This look like a good way to get in with a drill wire. Is the bearing you speak of above or below the area?
I can't think of it off hand. Look up on boats.net you will see the bushing and pics if the midsection.
Hello mr, captain I have my safts from my propeller which is crooked with my Honda 135 engine is it complicated to change it do you have a video to help me change it thank you
Hi Andre' I do not have a video on that. But you should have a shop do that it's crazy what tolerances you need to have after changing out a prop shaft. Plus your upper and shift shaft seals should be done if they are pretty old. Good luck this is quite a project.
Hey I have a question , I accidentally tightened it the lower unit down and pushed the shift shaft up now it won’t go into gear and a couple broken washers fell dowm the shaft it goes through, how do you go about replacing those washers? Is it a difficult task?
Which washers? Send me pics. captainrobthompson@gmail.com. I think I know what you did. Which Hp motor did you do it with? Carb or efi?
Excellent video but I am confused as to the kit I should purchase. My model is BF90DKLRTA. CAN YOU HELP ME?
REGARDS, DAN
What's up Dan?
@@captainrobthompson8728 your list indicates models DK4 & DK0 but my model is …DKLRTA etc. so which water pump kit do I purchase? Dan
3:20 Hi, I have unscrewed the four screws at the side and the one screw at the back but I can't take off the bottom part. I hit it with a hammer but I can't take it off. I haven't opened it in 3 or 4 years. What else can I do?
Under the trim tab in the back your sure you have them all? If you do try to whack the back with wood to break the salt free. Then use the screw drivers on the sides to work them down. If this is frozen in there you may have to get some chisels and go to town on the gap. It sucks but it's what you gotta do. This is a 40/50 Honda? About what year?
@@captainrobthompson8728 No .
My Honda motor is 15hp but is the same body and logic
You have to unscrew the shift I think. There is a long 10 mm but you have to run back. Let me try to look in a bit of a schematic
Looks like 4 and 1 on schematic. And it looks like the shift needs to be disconnected.
Hello Rob is the impeller change the same for the Honda 130?
Mostly the same idea. It is a different case and midsection. Go to boats.net to see the schematic of the 130. Good luck!
Is the process different for an early 2000's Honda BF 40A?
Shouldn't be this is a 2004 send me pics if it looks different.
Rob do you have to drain the gear case oil before removing?
No you do not have to drain. The oil will be behind the seals. You are ok to remove the gearcase and change the water pump. Good luck!!!
Why does the video seem to be mirrored? Are the impeller bolts left hand threads?
It's filmed in selfie mode so I can see what I'm doing. All bolts are righty tighty
Do you leave the engine in neutral?
Normally I do. Everything should match when your done as well.
do you know the part# for a BF90A
Depends on what year. They are different. Go to boats.net and put in your model and year. Go to gearcase or lower unit. I believe it should be a box with a number that says water pump kit. There could be two kits a service kit that just has impeller and gaskets the other has the housing. Take yours apart and see if you need a housing if you had a melt down. If it's just due use the cheaper service kit.
What grease are you using?
Regular marine grease, Yamaha, merc 2-4-C, wheel bearing. What ever you can get will work. They will all last different amounts of time. The biggest thing is to keep it sealed and I like to just re-grease every season like an oil change. You'll be fine with what you can get.
Thank you!@@captainrobthompson8728
Never saw you hook the little tube back up
I don't have the Speedo hook up it's kind of a joke actually. For true speed a GPS which almost every boat has is triangulated. Speed by pressure is always off by a few mph or knots.
Seems to be a LH tread on the impeller cover.
Nope it's righty tighty. In the description I put a disclaimer that some shots are filmed in selfie mode. That's all.
@@captainrobthompson8728 sweet. Had me going there for a sec 😂
@@captainrobthompson8728 just on another note. Do you know where the thermostat housing is? I finished bolting up bf75d EFI model. Kept buzzing at the remote for around 45 seconds and then stopped. The water out of the tell tail was very hot, or is this normal. Thanks Gary
@@gazzachampas8058 yeah i wish I could fix it but I'm more a mechanic than videographer. My phone is old and that's what I do it all on. Thanks for watching!
@@gazzachampas8058 ok so it was closed then opened so it will be hot til it can cycle enough water through to drop temp. The therm should be up top near the waterjacket. Look to see if there is a pop-it valve too. Look up the schematic on boats.net. I'm at the dentist so I can't lol! Always try to do thermostats with waterpumps so you know when they were done.
Wawu
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