How much does it cost to replace a camshaft and lifters? GM trucks 6.2L 5.3L Yukon,Tahoe. Silverado
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- Опубліковано 6 лют 2025
- Still updating and uploading other videos, stay tuned
Camshaft used (Stock replacement for non-DOD)
Crankshaft bolt (one time use OEM 2014-2022 Engine Crankshaft Pulley 11547372)
LS7 Lifters and trays
Camshaft retainer plate
Crankshaft holding tool
Crank Balancer install tool
Crankshaft balancer puller tool 4" 24-3004
1/2" drive torque wrench 250 lb ft rating
Inch pound torque wrench
Mobil 1 Synthetic LV ATF HP (1 quart unless you lose a lot more )
GM Genuine Parts 12623757 Engine Valve Lifter Oil Filter
Paint Pens
Fuel Pump alignment tool
Exhaust manifold bolts
Vacuum Pump(Optional)
Engine Assembly Lube
Thread Sealant
Gasket Remover (pack of 6 recommended)
Intake Manifold Gaskets 12626354 sold individually, need 8 (Verify compatibility)
Plastic Scraper
Q tips 6"
Oil pressure sensor (Optional) 12727099
Line wrench 17mm
13mm allen socket
17mm crows foot m
VVT Cam bolt solenoid 2015-2018 12734067
VVT Cam bolt solenoid 2019+ 12697047.
Fuel line (Standard brand) GDL109
Fuel line (Standard brand) GDL704
High Pressure Fuel Pump GDP105 (Optional) (standard brand)
Fuel pump lifter (Standard brand) GDF103.
Water pump gaskets 12657430 (251-2066)
Spark plugs iridium 12622441.
Exhaust manifold gaskets 12657093
GM 12623104 Engine Valley Pan Gasket
ACDelco W0133-3149153-ACD - Genuine GM Parts Engine Coolant Water Pump (Optional)
Fuel line disconnect tools
Ingersol Rand impact
Coolant 3-4 needed
Motor Oil. 8 quarts needed
Oil filter (verify compatibility)
Main drive belt 12626076
A/C belt 12658178
Vacuum pump belt 12643517
Yukon / Tahoe / Suburban / Escalade Owner’s manual Bells & whistles
• Yukon / Tahoe / Suburb...
Huge shoutout to other great channels I used as a reference for this project. See below for their channels
• DOD/AFM
Perform at your own risk. I assume no liability for injury, damage, death, etc. Refer to your owners manual. Demonstration purposes only
Currently doing mine on my 2015 Escalade. Ordered my kit from Texas Speed. Everything is going smooth so far. Your videos were very informative. I also decided to do my oil pump, fuel pump etc.... Might as well while were in there. Thanks for the videos
I'm thinking of doing this to my 15 escalade too. Any info you care to share? thanks.
@@tomshaheen6778 about how much is the labor cost for the engine work. I just ordered the tsp dod kit & stage 1 cam
Might as well do the oil pressure sensor too. They're a bitch to get at when everything is put back together.
This is what keeps me from buying a new truck right now, I guess I’ll keep driving my 2002 Silverado with 190,000 miles 4.8 V8.
Got that baby V8
@@aaron___6014 It's the same block as the 5.3. Just different connecting rods and flat faced pistons.
I wish I didn’t get rid of my 2001 Silverado with a 4.8l engine, it had 415,000 kms ( Canada ) and I never had 1 problem with that engine ever , this new shat is just that SHAT , it’s time consumers had a say , the EPA and tree huggers go fly a kite ffs and our prime minister Justin Trudeau has to go because Canadians are sick of him and the liberals carbon tax , it’s just a scam to steal ALL of tax payers money. Mark Carney should take a seat beside Trudeau on the unemployment line because we don’t need a banker running around as a politician ffs 😊
@@RubenMontes-j2t ua-cam.com/video/YXsWtKrvXWY/v-deo.htmlsi=ZViib2IA-D4V6D3C
70k miles and dealing with this right now on a Yukon Denali. There should be a class action lawsuit against GM for this.
I think there is a class action suit for this issue. The reason I bought a nice 2000 GMC 1500 without this dod/afm junk
Super helpful! Thank you. Im planning this for my 2018 yukon. Its ok right now but its got 84k on it so… and like you said, when you’re that deep in the engine, you may as well replace some parts. 👍🏻 the kits from Texas Speed looks to be the way Im gonna go
Get rid of it while it still has some value
Thank you for sharing this video. Amazing presentation, in your spreadsheet, regarding the part numbers (where do you get them as dealerships are so reluctant to share this vital information because, as they told me, "we do not want you to go on the Internet and buy them"), and the actual cost of all of them. Very, but very useful in order for me to get a specific picture of all the parts involved and cost. Now, I am looking at the step-by-step video on how to replace them LOL.
I made a step by step video. ua-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/v-deo.htmlsi=okWswPWs3w5p5o_0
Doing my 11 escalade right now not bad at all I recommend getting the fancy torque wrench with the angle on it. If your semi handy under the hood shouldn't be to bad.
Ps you don't have to necessarily take the motor out I just removed the front end
I've never worked on GM's but have done BMW engine swaps, and tuning for years. I was hesitant to learn another platform, but this video definitely got me over the line!
I just replaced all lifters and cam shaft; pretty much everything that has to be replaced for a total of $3,500 of which $1,000 was labor and the rest was GM parts. I had previously gone to the local Chevy dealer who said "we will not do that repair because we can't guarantee positive results but we'll install a brand new 5.3 GM engine for 12k total" of course.. After getting referrals from friends and other locals, I connected with this awesome owner/mechanic one man shop in Nogales, Arizona, it has been two months and it runs like a "brand new" 09 Chevy Avalanche. BTW, I also ordered an AFM/DFM disabler made by Cytrobe from Amazon and I haven't looked back. Folks, shop for the cost of this repair, I know this may depend on what part of the country you're located but it's well worth it. Damn this AFM fiasco..breath new life to your GM 3.5, they are great engines. If you're in Arizona, I'll happily send you Carlos' way.
Hmm, I've read that it just goes back to an active fms..
I will check it out though
Thanks.
@@aprilgeneric8027 I can tell you on the older 5.3's with AFM if you run it with AFM disabled and then for some reason it gets unplugged or goes bad, you will likely end up with at minimum old grime getting knocked loose and plugging up that little filter under the oil pressure sensor. It's not a horrible job getting it out and cleaning or replacing it but it can take several drive cycles before it's done getting plugged up. The worst part is listening to the low oil pressure/stop engine chime when it gets plugged up even thought your engine still likely has good oil pressure...the sensor just doesn't read it that way because the filter is plugged below it. I would agree with you though, getting the AFM disabled permanently at the ECM or with a tuner is the best way to go.
I definitely could use his help. I’m in Arizona and my elevation 5.3 lifters went out… again…
@JasontheNativeTraveler they replaced one lifter at 30k miles, now at 120k they are replacing all lifters and cam for $7,700.
'20 Sierra Elevation 5.3L
It's better to just replace the engine, do not disable AFM. It will shorten the lifespan of the camshaft and kill fuel mileage.
Got the lifter failure in multiple lifters in bank #1 with two push rods being bent. Although the GM parts are crap I changed my oil between 6k-7k miles so I'm a bit responsible due to not fully understanding how these GM engines consume oil. I'm on the path to either doing a DFM delete or fixing the issue and washing my hands. I have a 2019 chevy Silverado lt trail boss 5.3. Your videos are quite helpful so I appreciate your insight.
I feel your pain for sure. You probably already saw the video, but if not here is my walkthrough
ua-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/v-deo.htmlsi=g3Zj-__mlGt_bPnV
yep. Have that noise on my 2011 Caprice PPV. I'm gathering all the Parts now. A Band-aid is I'm running redline 10w-60 Full synthetic and a Purolator Boss Oil filter. Noise is totally gone and no misfires HOWEVER, I do believe the roller on the lifter is NOT running true on the cam. Doing Cam, lifters, oil pump, timing chain, water-pump, new hardened pushrods and all new rocker arms.
Mine just had lifter go out and take out the cam on my 2019 Silverado on my way home to Minnesota from Virginia. Went out in West Virginia. Was looking at around $7500 total cost. Luckily I bought the truck gm certified used. Chevy dealer told me it is 100% covered with no cost to me. Just have to go back and pick it up next week.
I’d look into a range disabler for the next one to last longer. Here it is on my Amazon affiliate link www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTJNM7XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_FRECHW9NBNZT0K6SMG35?linkCode=ml2&tag=2004047-20
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage That show for 5.3 Silverado up to 2018. Mines a 2019, will it still work?
@@scottj214 maybe they have a difference for 2019. When you put your vehicle in it should say if it doesn’t fit and give options for one that does
Outstanding video. Thank you for this cost difference.
This is so ridiculous to be having to deal with this on such low mileage and new overpriced vehicles. I got the same problem with my GMC Sierra and my brothers got the same problem with his Chevy Tahoe and both vehicles are under 50,000 miles.
@@ozzy541It is no longer optional* with these newer engines. For the love of God and all things mechanical.... keep that oil cleeeean
@ihavethedocuments2580 Even with clean oil, the mechanical nature of the lifter expanding and collapsing will eventually cause a mushrooming effect. Over time the lifter will stay collapsed and be unable to expand without manipulation or need replacement.
U still got warranty under 50k miles right
Sue them
@@cham5275Good luck with that... maybe why they plan to go all electric eventually to avoid admitting to the issues with DOD on the V8s.
DOD and AFM JUNKMy 2002 silverado 6.0 with regular good ole fashion reliable roller lifters is currently 257k miles til this day💪🏿👍🏿
My Silverado is at 250k as well with regular lifters
I removed oil pan and cleaned it replacing those o rings plus i did timing chain tensioner and air pump my cost was 2400
DAMN. THAT SUCKS!! I got a 08 Silverado 5.3, 280k miles on it and the oil pressure just started to go down. I’m doing the DOD delete and a Texas Speed Cam with the new cam bearings and of course the tune 😁😁😁😁😁😁
I'm doing both. Heads, cam and lifters tune
I just finished and posted the full walkthrough with the engine still in the truck if you’re interested ua-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/v-deo.htmlsi=Y1ZBrhp4THprLbuy
Very tedious job, you have to be very fluent and have patience on doing this and correct with accuracy. I would of done the same also... since im in here i will change this which isnt a bad idea, especially when your in this deep, i wanted to buy a 2015 Yukon XL 6.2L with 89,000km on it, which is still low, but i know i want this AFM delete kit done but aince your video shows what to do and how to do it "PROPERLY" i think i may consider the Yukon and i have an edge on the sales to let him know this job will be $9000 so it will give me wiggle room as they go by dealership cost. Oh they want $45000 for the Yukon XL at the dealership
Wish me luck cause if i get it for the right price ill be doing this also makes a great resale value too cause not only me but someone like me or yourself is doing research on the engines and probably heard the problems about this AFM/DOD issue. But having this done and recorded and documentation on it being done will may get them to buy it etc... but yeah if i get this SUV ill most likely do this to it. Last thing i want is a knocking engine or worst...
Yeah, I would also look through my playlist for the other things you will likely need. Suspension (costly to replace the Magneride), transmission harness, gps antenna, tail lights..it’s a lot of smaller things but it should all be considered
Yukon / Tahoe / Suburban / Escalade Owner’s manual Bells & whistles
ua-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi7J7EQ1ErTn1Yzi6ET_3Ssr.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage ok
$7,600 bucks and you've got many of the original lifters still in there which will likely fail plus there's a bunch of metal frags running around inside that engine so you know you're going to buy a new 6.2 or 5.3 sometime soon. The answer is don't buy these truck. Simply stay away from them until they admit the issue and change the design
They won’t change it, and have made it worse with dynamic fuel management (DFM). I now have a Toyota tundra and sequoia V8.
Right no gm prpducts
What was the compression in engine cylinders?
This is so sad. My 2000 tahoe with the 'dinosaur" small block 350 will never be sold. The 5.3 may make more power, but I could never deal with this. My respect to all of y'all going through this.
I also have a 2000 Silverado with 220k miles. I have since moved on from my Yukon to a Toyota sequoia
This is a nightmare 😩😩😩
Non DOD engines rarely fail.....my 07 6.2 escalade has 0 problems at 150k my wifes 17 however has a lifter tapping at 101k which is why im here and about to call texas speed for a kit
I got a super good deal it looks like. Parts and labor for 1500 from a local mechanic. I am very happy with my 2010 GMC Sierra.
I have a 2010 GMC Sierra 5.3. I dont have any problems and have an HP Tuner that I used to disable the DOD. I am looking at possibly doing the full physical delete this spring. If I do this job, I just can't put the old exhaust back on. I would have to do the rear main seal, too. I would want to replace everything while Im there. The truck has always had full synthetic oil changes ever 3k miles. The truck also has a trans cooler and oil cooler. So, hopefully, that keeps keeps the torque converter from getting cooked.
I would just turn the dod off and keep driving it until it has a problem
BTR AFM delete kit is about 1080. Did you order all parts separate? Or an entire kit. The kit is lower in cost than that.
Looking for a shop in DFW to do this on my 2017 Yukon xl Denali
Is there a chance I could get a copy of that excel spreadsheet? Thanks!
I have 08 Silverado with amazingly 350k. Yes sir lifters are not at all happy.8gs to fix it. I'm to old unfortunately 73 and counting. No place to take it other to other then someone I can trust.
Just ran into this issue on my 2020 Sierra. I got quoted to do the delete and stage 1 cam from Texas Speed at $6,500
Sounds about right. It’s a big job. I have the full walkthrough if you’re interested interested (or just want to know what will be involved) ua-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/v-deo.htmlsi=QSo7uUzyIR9pkQo2
No noise from my 2013 Sierra with 5.3L at 102K miles but I’m thinking of doing this proactively before it sheds metal in the engine.
You have motivated me to do this myself. My only hesitation is I have 2015 suburban L83 engine, based on your list do all those parts fit in a l83 engine or is there certain part in your list that should be different for my type of engine. Cause I don’t know what to buy and it would suck to know in the middle of the process that those parts won’t fit. You got a new subscriber
To my knowledge all the parts are the same other than the head gaskets are different for the 5.3. I would watch my walkthrough videos and take notes on parts, then speak with Brian Tooley racing or your GM parts counter to verify the part numbers fit the 5.3L. If you have a question on a part I would be happy to see what I can see for it as well if you comment on the video (that’s the best way for me to see it).
ua-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/v-deo.htmlsi=d7NI4Y-g8LOHTzun
I would say if not knowing what to replace is your biggest known fear, don’t build an engine. You will be faced with 20 unknown new fears. Like, what ring gap do i need to file my rings to? How scored are my piston skirts? Putting new rings, means you need to crosshatch the bores. Are my bores warped? Did metal go through the bearings? You know the cam bearings are worn so now i need a special tool to press those in. How do you even measure your bearing clearance anyways? more special tools. Then, are the bearings on back order? Do i need a hpfp shim? how do i measure that? Then you put it all back together and it has a tick. What is that sound? 😂. I say if you know the answer to all these then you’re ready to do it yourself. There’s no shame to having a pro do it right the first time.
I've not done the Gen V engines yet, but Gen IV's can be done, including a factory cam, in about 6 hours for around $350. Do a couple of them a week...
What would a sliverado 5.3 cost?
I got a 2017 gmc yukon Denali 3 months ago with 50,000 miles I got the best warranty you can get threw easy care it just started ticking really loud and then the engine light came on the same day will they replace the whole engine or just the cam and lifters?
They will do what’s cheapest I’m sure. Or if they decide it’s ruined the engine they may replace it
Thank you for the info! I will be keeping an ear for that on my Silverado
It’s typically the sound or for the dod lifter you might get a misfire if the lifter collapses
By the time you hear it it is toolate
To be fair my 10 Silverado lasted till about 127k before the lifters blew, and it only blew cuz my brother drove my truck badly. Cost me 6600 to rebuild it, and so far she’s been doing ok at 151k. I plan on going back in there and rebuild it myself now that I know it’s not that expensive if you do it yourself. Now I just gotta learn how to take apart engines
This will be a good guide, although slightly different ua-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/v-deo.htmlsi=3kuSGD8SyBiRIuSl
With so much metal debri though out the engine Would you recommend getting a new engine? ...or just replacing oil pump timing belt other components work?..where does all that metal debri exactly go? Does it All get flushed out after changing lifters and camshaft or does some of it stay inside small crevices Creating potential future problems ?
That is a big concern. In the teardown you will see other lifters have marks in them where the debris had got stuck on the other rollers. Hopefully, they have caught most of the debris and are being replaced. There is a lifter filter as well you will see removed in video 2, so investigation is important to see just how bad it was. There is always a risk of contamination and flushing the oil galleys would be best with a oil pump removal (engine needs to come out or at least lifted to drop the oil pan to get that far in. On the other hand, removing the cam, pushing a new cam in with assembly grease can push any left over debris out (you’ll want to clean and inspect the camshaft bearings but they can’t be removed with the engine in as well unless you also remove the ac condenser and grill). DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1
ua-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/v-deo.html
I know you said in your video that you did OE stock cam and you didn't delete the VVT was the main reason for not deleting the VVT because the replacement of the timing chain cover which would mean you would have to drop the oil pan or was there other reasons for not going stage 1 vs OE
I kept the VVT because it offers the best performance for low end torque on a stock cam. I believe when you go to larger stage cams it may require the VVT delete to keep valve to piston clearance. I didn’t go with a different cam just to keep the rest simple with valve springs and anything else
Fantastic work. Good overview
It seems it would have been easier to drop a Jasper reman in than tear down. I just pray the metal shavings didn’t do damage to the other areas. Hope it worked out. Big job.
I would have even considered a new GM long block but it doesn’t solve the problem of the bad dod lifters that will fail later.
What oil did you use I know you have to use the oil weight 0W-20 I’m asking because if you use different weight oil you will damage lifters and cam
I always used Mobil 1 full synthetic dexos approved 0w20 and changed it earlier than the oil timer said. It’s unfortunately common on these engines to have a lifter failure
I went to the GMC dealer here in town cause i had some ticking coming from my car. They said it was my lifters and camshafts that needed to be replaced and they were CHARGING ME 15 THOUSAND DOLLARS! fawk that! i browsed around to some local mecahanics and they said they can do it around 4-5k and they would do the mds delete as well and a few other things since the engine would be out.
Changing valve springs are not required on the L86? Can you tell us the the length difference between stock and replacement push rods? Thank you for sharing this info.
Stock push rods are 7.85” and the ones BTR recommended were Ls7 length 7.80” Valve springs were not recommended for being a stock cam spec replacement.
I have an L86 to delete after the holidays. Thanks again.
@@bentabor9410 here is the step by step if you want it DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1
ua-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/v-deo.html
Thank you for posting this video… and this link as well. I’ll be definitely referencing is and doing it as I do NOT have thousands to spend at a shop. Gotta learn sometime right? 😅
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage How are the non-stock pushrods doing? I'm talking with a mechanic shop about AFM Delete kit on a 2020 5.3L Tahoe and my mechanic isn't aware of the non-stock different sized pushrods. I'm trying to inform him that people online are recommending to go with the non-stock ones, but I don't know the exact reason why and if it is working better. I'd like to hear if you still recommend using the non-stock pushrods. Thank you.
I don’t know if you would know this, but I assume the delete process should be identical if you are doing this on a newer GM truck with DFM instead of AFM? Main difference would be 16 collapsible lifters instead of 8.
I believe the process is similar but I’ve heard some differences with the cam gear and it being harder to walk the chain off if trying to do it inside the vehicle without removing the engine
our dealership its closer to $7k just in labor. our labor rate is 220 an hour
Might as well get a junkyard motor at that point
My 2015 regular lifter failed tore cam up same way 92,000 miles i do my own maintenance never missed oil change every 5000 miles mobile one. Had replaced cam and all the lifters since metal ran through the engine. Cost $5000. Had it fixed traded it in on a 2021 tundra GM trash.
I have a 2021 tundra as well for the same reason: ua-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi57XD9z82F06EWPIA6KBhzI.html&si=bxizfB9DEey7JqRM
I have a new 2023 Yukon Denali XL with 4k miles on it. I was planning on getting a new cam, headers, lifters, and deleting the deactivation garbage when my warranty is up. Question: should I do it sooner rather than later before my warranty goes out and just get it over with?????
I would not do it until it’s a problem. There are a lot of other variables with the heads/gaskets, timing chain tensioner, oil pressure, etc. Let it go the warranty length minimum
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thanks for the reply, and yes, I will plan on at least waiting for the warranty to go out. Thanks!
Sooner you don't want metal flowing through your engine
@@frenchonion4595 thanks for the advice. I am leaning towards that….the extra horsepower doesn’t hurt either:)
Danny and idea how much just the left side lifters should be? Having done as we speak and want to make sure the Cadillac dealer isn’t over charging me… thx
If the cam has not been damaged or any damage to the cylinder head, valve etc I would expect about $2-3k tops. If they have to get into removing the cam and such it could be up to $7k+. My advice would be if they do a cam to have all the lifters replaced at that time. The dealership may only do stock replacement lifters per their policy. It is a large job that should be an engine out procedure. The techs themselves will get it done quicker with the engine still in as I did, but watch this to see why it’s so expensive: ua-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/v-deo.htmlsi=eBOlgSX5wtssha2w
Ok thx. They did check the cam and it was ok. They originally said $4k for the left side lifters. Since I am a long time GM buyer I asked GM for $ assistance and they are… it’s costing me $1700 so guess they are helping me out but not as much as I originally thought
Question running into the same situation going to do the BTR delete was wondering will disabler that plugs into the OBD ll be all I need after doing the repair or do I have to get a full tune on the ECM??
I believe you need a full tune. You can send your computer out to a company who does it
Quick question I didn’t have compression on cylinder 6 they took about a week to diagnose my truck it’s the 5.3 non dfm or afm they explain to me that they ordered cam and lifter with your experience u believe that’s what’s causing my low compression mind you this I had it on a certified well known shop before hand and they recommended me a engine replacement so I don’t know what to believe
I would ask them what exactly they say is the reason. To me it sounds like a bent pushrod that could cause low compression by the valve not closing. However, other things may also cause no compression, including piston problems. It very well may be more affordable (or easy and guaranteed for them) to put a new engine in
@ thanks
Where is the cost of having the head resurfaced ??
G=GOT
M=MECHANIC
C=COMING
🤔😂😭
Was just told by the Chevrolet dealership that my 2015 yukon denali lifters are failing. Approximately 140k miles. Purchased with a 120k miles. Oil changes regularly. I just don't understand 😢😢
Unfortunately, it is all too common. It is a very big job calling for 34 hours and would be best to remove the engine from the truck. Lots of variables ua-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/v-deo.htmlsi=nlA9-J_XHDjN-ipy
Gm needs to get rid of the active fuel management. That will fix the whole problem .
Great video thanks!
For this interested - if you don't have AFM failures and aren't seeking to replace parts or delete, you can simply disable AFM using a high quality scanner.
You can use the range disabler tool, but it may still have the failure of the lifter collapses. Sold here on my affiliate link www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTJNM7XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_FRECHW9NBNZT0K6SMG35?linkCode=ml2&tag=2004047-20
Couple questions: How many miles you had?? And what gave up, a Lifter?? Why do you think it happened?? Is it common problem?? Thanks=)
I had 94,000 miles. It was a regular lifter that failed. I was also worried about the common dod lifter failure so I deleted it at the time
Bad lifter noise sound Yukon Tahoe Silverado Sierra Escalade Diagnose bad lifter GM Chevy truck suv
ua-cam.com/video/cx4_-FGXCVE/v-deo.html
I have a 2000 silverado 5.3 with most likely worn out lifters. Ticks in the morning anywhere from 2 sec to 5 min, then stops once it warms up. Have always changed oil every 3-5k. 170k on motor. Any ideas on what i should do? Found remanufactured motor for 2500. Should i just keep driving until the tick doesn't go away? Is the camshaft likely damaged? Thanks
My 2000 has done that for years. May even be the pistons slapping until they warm up and expand or the lifters as you say. I don’t think it would be a huge problem unless it gets worse
Ok. Thanks. Definitely could be piston slap. There's actually times when it won't tick for a few weeks, then it just returns. It seems it starts to tick when it gets down just a half a quart. Plus it does burn a quart of oil every 1k miles but that's probably worn out valves seals or piston rings
It's broken exhaust manifold bolts. The rear ones like to break. Once it heats up the the gap closes. The old LS's don't have lifter issue's unless you don't change oil like at all lol. A lot of people think the old LS engines had lifter tick but that's what it is
I would have did a Texas speed AFM delete kit.
My newest tk is 2001 z71. I ll keep fixing it
I have a 2000 Z71. 250k miles
Was this a direct injection? What was the fuel pump cam lobe look like? Should probably change the fuel pump lifter as well?
Yes, direct injection and the fuel pump lifter looked good but I replaced it ALL while I was in there DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1
ua-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/v-deo.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I'm crossing my fingers.. im at 260 km without any issues so far. 2016 silverado with 5.3. I raised my idle to 700rpm and turn off the dod in the ecu and only use shell 91-93. I will most likely swap the engine for a l8t when it will happen to me.
@@farncoisbisson7737 I think thats the best option
Yeah i dont know about the head bolts needing to be replaced. there are plenty of guys using reused head bolts out there.
They are torque to yield and stretch. You hear stories of people reusing them, but if it’s supposed to be replaced I show the proper way in my videos the best I can. Same with the high pressure fuel lines
Same problem here 2011 Yukon Denali!
Sorry to hear that
I have a 2010 Yukio Denali with lifter problems 😢
I am about to xplore my 5.3 suv year 2020, it has been making this tic tic noise ,I heard it on the left side.
Question. I have a good 5.3 2019 Silverado engine I currently have the engine off since I am changing the frame. Can I just swap the lifters to new non did lifters before they go bad ? And leave everything the same like cam and valley cover and just deactivate the did via tube ?
I would call Brian Tooley racing to ask about a parts build list with what you are wanting, but I understand you need a new camshaft that is the non-dod for their GM engines. If the engine is out, I would strongly recommend doing it all now with a new oil pump and things that are much more accessible like being able to remove the oil pump since you can remove the oil pan. When it comes to the heads be sure to spray them out where the head bolts go like you’ll see in my video. People have cracked blocks from the hydraulic pressure: ua-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/v-deo.htmlsi=m6E9cZOREW-o-zCy
Hey my just started to make this lifter noise on my 6.2 Silverado and i was think of doind a dod and a cam swap and got a laber quote 2600 + parts what cam u go with
I went with the stock cam used for non-dod on the L8T. You’ll see it in the video description of my dod delete. I’d also call Brian Tooley racing and speak with them since they told me to go with slightly shorter pushrods 7.80 instead of stock 7.85 since I was using LS7 lifters. DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1
ua-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/v-deo.html
@ yeah i seen videos of u stalling it yeah I’m think of doing a dod delete on it i was think of call Texas speed
@ should i have them do a kit for me ?
@@tokitrucks yeah, let them walk you through all the parts for the specific thing you want. If you change the cam to be more aggressive you may need to lock the cam phaser. There are some videos out there on that too. I just wanted stock replacement and drivability
Looked the same as my 4.6 mustang roller follower that failed it eat up my cam
Did you need to do a tune before or after installation? I have the 6.2l L87 with the DFM
Yes, it needs a tune
Great information! Did it throw any codes? I have the same model and year. I fear I may be in the same situation soon
No codes, just the sound which I was hoping was a pulley. Unfortunately it wasn’t
Funny part book time shows doing just the lifters alone at 12hours so I can only imagine what that shop charged per hour to get to 5300 on labor
You can just change the cam and lifters. The metal from the cam and lifters has been flushed through the engine and has eaten the bearings.
What head gaskets did u use sir?? cant find the part or listed in description. TY SO MUCH FOR TAKING THE TIME TO DO THIS!!!
It was from. Brian Tooley racing, but it looks just like the GM factory one (perhaps just repackaged?)
@@dannyjohnsonsgaragethank you sir !! I rewatched the video and seen you did put the part number is the spreadsheet on screen ! lol sorry !!! I had that paused for about an hour going back and forth making sure I got the right parts!! Jw why not replace the rocker arms and springs ? Do I need too ? Anything you would do differently if you could do it all over again ? That darn water pump is near $600 now .. should I just put the old one back on ? Or is a ton of work to redo the water pump when she fails ? Sorry I got lots of questions. Just about to do this to my dream Escalade and want it done right !! Thank you again !
@@fatbradlehs Any updates? What other parts did you decide on replacing?
Only thing that makes me nervous about this is the programming for the new cam......Id like to stay diy....do you know if texas speed sells a matched programmer for the cam or is the programming strictly for disabling the AFM function......this is the one thing alot of videos arent clear about. I live in a county that requires emission testing and that check engine light cant be on for any reason
I’d reach out to Texas speed or Brian Tooley racing. I’ve seen some places you send your computer off to and they perform what’s needed
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage .....I found out ......its just to turn the afm off.....just doing a stock profile replacement for non dod
As GM guy this is sad. I have always had mustangs as well(why I followed your channel) but I love GM trucks. It’s just sad really.
Thank you for a great video !
2012 Suburban of mine just did the same sound as you shown in this video after a ''jiffylobotomy" oil change. A mechanic said I need a new engine, ~$12,000 on a blue book $10,000 vehicle. I drove it home with less sound . 6 days later I started it up, no sound !!! How could that be ???
I'm in Redondo Beach, State of Californication , getting it right up there by mechanics. Any recommendations ? Do you know anyone trustworthy around Redondo Beach CA ???
When bearings fail they can also quiet down as they heat or cool. Mine stayed out as a squeak that I figured may have been a belt or pulley but over time it will be constant
@@dannyjohnsonsgarageThank You !
Im using ls7 lifters with my TSP DOD Delete kit, but went with oem length pushrods of 7.850". I havent even taken it all apart yet but wondering if i should exchange my pushrods for the 7.800"?
Good question. I’m nervous about mine, but so far so good. Maybe try calling Bryan Tooley Racing, and see if they tell you the same thing as they did me
Do you still recommend using the 7.800 pushrods? Thank you@@dannyjohnsonsgarage
@@dannyjohnsonsgaragebe good to see how these ones you installed in your Yukon XL
Any updates on the pushrods? What length did you go with and how is it working? Thanks
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage How are the 7.800 pushrods doing? Any updates on that? I'm talking with a mechanic and we are trying to see if this is a good idea. Thanks.
I just had a lifter fail on my 2021 Chevy Tahoe 5.3. Will these parts work on that motor? Help!!!
There are some differences for the 2021 so I would call Brian Tooley Racing and consult with them
Great video. Did u check cylinder heads while they were off?
I removed them 90 degree turns at a time in reverse torque sequence, cleaned them up by hand without a razor blade, cleaned out the gunk from the direct injection and they seemed good enough to install. So far so good for a few weeks now. Others said they have had the same luck without having to have anything machined since it wasn’t a head gasket/warp
Awesome idea for list! Can you share that!
I’ve put it in the video description by item for the most part
Did you consider a low mile L8T ? I was able to score a 2021 30k mi. pull out $2800 outright ,i installed in 10hrs maybe less.
It would be a good option being non-dod, but I’m not sure about how it would have worked with the swap to a 6.6 and I have seen there are some oil consumption issues and still direct injection. I was wanting to remain as stock as possible, but the cam I used is from the L8T. It would be a good option to consider rather than all the work involved. Let me know how it goes
What can I do if mine isn’t giving me any symptoms at the moment? Is there a legit way to disable DOD before I have issues?
You can turn it off electronically and it will save you the most time. Some say eventually the vlom still leaks and deactivates the cylinder, but with all the other parts involved I’d take my chances until it’s a problem. Just catch it as soon as possible so it doesn’t put metal shavings in the engine: ua-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/v-deo.htmlsi=hOOp1XWCI16qaLuR
Iridium plugs for only $100? In Canada my local parts store, a big chain one, charges $35-$45 per plug depending on application. For my Dodge pentastar engine they cost me, with tax $241.91 for six of them. Thank goodness I won’t ever have to replace them for as long as I own the vehicle.
While investigating and inspecting service contract claims (extended warranty) I saw a pattern. But being a sample size of 1 doesn't actually make a pattern. Cylinder 4 specifically, several times in a short period of time. It made me think it is a manufacturing issue in the plant. It seems like it is an assembly issue, as you also have cylinder number 4.
Saw another video stating he had cylinder #4 issues as well.
One last question sir !! Plz!! That camshaft says for 5.3… can you verify that can you told us to buy is for the 6.2 as well correct ? Is that a forged cam or cast ?
I would always verify for your specific year, make, model, engine. It’s the one BTR sold to me in the kit, and it’s in my 6.2 right now, so it works as far as I can say
www.amazon.com/GM-Genuine-12672469-Overhead-Camshaft/dp/B09NMK9PCB?crid=15Y3FTXYZRHTL&keywords=12672469+g%3Bm+cam&qid=1695481995&sbo=RZvfv//HxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=12672469+g+m+cam,aps,227&sr=8-1&linkCode=sl1&tag=2004047-20&linkId=fcd0bc5a09f12b8d2cb200515df3f280&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thank you so much! its ordered !! I appreciate you doing all the leg work and getting us these part numbers!!
Donde tienes tu taller para q me aregles una 2019 silverado
Lamentablemente, no tengo un taller. Solo arreglo mis autos y hago vídeos para ayudar
ua-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/v-deo.htmlsi=bHmzBVyF2bdCDdKB
Is that clicking/ ticking noise normal with those engines?
No. That's when you know that the rollers are eating the cam
What about a tune?
Great video. Just think you spent 2,700 total, and the job is done correctly. The stealership wants over 7K, and the person better hope the job is done right the first time.
Are these part numbers the same for a 2016 Silverado with the 5.3?
Many should be, but I would go into a dealership and ask for the list with you vin. To my understanding, the camshaft is even for a 5.3 specifically for their version that doesn’t have cylinder deactivation. They might say some parts like that are not for your truck and won’t fit since it didn’t come with them. I would also reach out to Brian Tooley racing
GM perfected the small block many years ago,problem was the engines last for ever and they were losing $ so now they have a perfect design with Shit parts.$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Is there a parts list posted somewhere? Best place to buy it?
Brian Tooley racing was very helpful. My list is all the factory replacement parts other than the cam (which is a factory spec but non-dod cam). I’d watch the walk through and decide all the parts and double check them to your specific year, make, and model. You can pause the screen to see my parts list. Here is the walkthrough: ua-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/v-deo.htmlsi=LNqxWAtUHGpJqKXL
I just paid $7500 to have a rebuilt motor in my 2010 Silverado. i would have done it my self but I would have to do it outside!
It’s a lot of work on the newer engines ua-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/v-deo.htmlsi=2nMB0bbv_TgotpjV
This was me today in this Atlanta heat I got to the valve cover then it rained and I called it
Awesome Dan !!
So, the only other cost would be a tune to shut off the AFM in the software, correct ?
Yes. If I remember something else I’ll put it in the description as well.
I also haveto say is that I did pretty good 👍🏻
It doesn't look like you've included the cost of re-programming the engine computer to disable DoD (which means programmatically deactivating all the triggers that would otherwise come up as DTC's - or Check Engine Lights - via the use of a special programming interface/tool). The tools alone (if going solo on the task) would be upwards of 600 bucks +. For whatever your "DoD Block Off" row is on your spreadsheet, I can't imagine we're talking about the same thing. Even the "credits" to make a lasting/correct programmatic change to the engine computer are well north of 200 bucks. But otherwise, my numbers (years ago) just about match up to yours. Good to know others have taken the deep-dive as well.
How many miles were on it when the issue started?
95,000. Way too few when my 2000 Silverado is still going fine with 230,000
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Yeah, it's too bad things are not built as well these days. We have an 2018 Yukon XL Denali with just over 100,000 on it. No issues yet, but it didn't start right in negative degree weather once last year... Haven't really heard what happened with that lawsuit against GM for this lifter issue either...
Mines went out twice before 37k miles and is at the shop now for my 2019 Silverado needing cam and lifters again. Video on my channel
if GM did not have AFM. it would be great motor. no body complaints of 90s chevy 350.
@@helloeveryone906 yes. They do have the L8T which I believe is where the non-dod cam comes from, but it also has oiling issues and is still direct injection, so it will have a lot of the same gunk issues
Can you share the excel spreadsheet?
Does anyone know of a good shop in the Orlando, FL area or anywhere in Florida that can handle this job? Please!!! Same issue Im having with a 21 Suburban.
I thought this problem only affected the 5.3L engine not the 6.2 can anyone explain this to me ?
Both the 5.3L and 6.2L for 2015 (2014+ Silverado)+ have active fuel management (AFM) aka DOD (displacement on demand). Some of the previous generation had it if it had flex fuel and not if it was straight gasoline I believe.
My buddy got 2015 Silverado high country 6.2 with 63k miles , it's at mechanic now waiting for estimate 😖
@@kapral791 I feel his pain. It’s a sad thing.
225,000 and i haven't had to worry about this i did however need a transmission
Lucky!
@@romeroharris6008 it's a roll of the dice. 2003 GMC z71 235k miles no issues
2008 GMC Z71 185k miles no issues
2018 GMC Z71 47k needs new cam and lifters..
I did that same job for people with GMs all the time for 2500 bucks flat fee with all the gaskets in 3 days.
Were you located please contact me @javidbenson6282
At what miles are you doing this ?
It failed at 96k miles
@dannyjohnsonsgarage does the check engine light related to that ?
This is a metal quality issue, not a dod issue, even the 4.8 without dod eats lifters, doing the delete is just like keeping the dod, it fixes the problem for now, but with crappy metal, will it happen again? from what I understand even the new 7.3 fords are having the issue, they use the same lifters, of course mopar has also had the issue, this started about 2006, before that no lifter issues, so what changed? obviously the one making these parts should be held accountable, 3 different manufacturers and they all have the same problems,
@@timtrusty5107 the hemi engines as well have the same problem. It may also be from poor oiling
@@timtrusty5107 I think you might be right, my 5.3 lifter failed on cylinder #2 and cylinder #2 isn't a dod cylinder at 47k, on top of that dod was disabled electronically at 500 miles.