Making a solo brake bleed tool out of household materials for less than five dollars!
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- Опубліковано 12 лис 2020
- Hey everyone! So today's video is about bleeding brakes ALONE with the help of a special tool anyone can make. All you need is a spray bottle nozzle and some tubing. I got my tubing from Lowes but this stuff can be found pretty easily at any hardware store or aquarium supply. Best part is it does a quick, clean job and you DO NOT HAVE TO PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL!!! Works on hydraulic clutch as well.
Let me know in the comments if this worked for you. - Авто та транспорт
This is a great tip for those of us who rarely have a willing and helping hand.
This is one of the best self bleed tips I've seen so far (and probably the very best). Thank you so much. I had a best friend who i always knew would be there to lend a helping hand (or foot), but he passed away 3 years ago and i'm pretty much on my own now.
Sorry to hear of the passing of your friend. I’ve lost many car buddies over the years and can sympathize with you. I’m glad this video helped you, and thanks for watching.
This is very effective and I've done this before on my Honda Civic '97 with 280,000 miles in it. Just make sure your master cylinder is not emptied or you are back to square one.
Thanks so much. What a cool idea and it worked so much better.
Good job , sir !
Thanks for watching!
You’re a man of great ideas and a man of outstanding qualities who will be known as the amazing bleeder guy ..
I’ve been called worse!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB this is good thing I say about you my brother.
@@zamzammrfixit3113 thanks for watching!
Good job . Thanks a lot sir.
Bought a new rear brake caliper to replace the original with a stuck piston. I will be doing it alone and need a practical solution to bleed the fluid. This method looks brilliant. The weak link will be me as I've never done this before.
I’m sure you will do great Greg, good luck with your repair!
@@Travis-T. oh man, just now seeing this. Hope you are still around bud.
Smart and simple
Thank you!
Thank you. I'm going to have to try this because the usual one-man pedal job is just not working: the fluid will go a certain way but there is always a long bubble at the top of the curve as the tube bends down into the bottle... no matter how many times I pump.
It’s worth a shot. Thanks for watching!
Thanks!
God bless you for sharing it 👍 🙏
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Thanks for watching!
FYI they sell vacuum pistols. Thst you can hook up to a reservoir and the zerk fitting. I bought it for my motorcycle originally but works like a charm.
Fun. DIY vacuum bleeder without a vacuum pump.
I've been bleeding my brother's clutch for two days with a plastic bleed screw... Screw was an 11mm. It's now round. So this will help ALOT.
Hope it does my friend!
TLDW:
Get a spray bottle neck, attach one end of correct size vinyl tubing to end of spray bottle neck and other end to the bleed nipple on the brake. Crack open the bleed nipple and spray into a bottle/container.
Looks like a good idea, will try it next time as a cheaper alternative to speed bleeders.
One thing I do for the bleeder valves is to wrap the threads with teflon tape. That stops fluid leaking out or air leaking in when you have the bleeder valve open. If you have one extra valve, you can swap them one at a time and not loose too much fluid.
As an auto tech i would advise to never use teflon tape on bleeder valve's. The tape can breakdown & little pieces of tape can find it's way into your brake system & casue major problems. Instead put some synthetic grease around the bleeder screw threads & it will keep air out.
@@statusquoreject Possible, but doubtful. I see a lot of aftermarket bleeder valves with thread sealant coating the threads. They do not seem to be worried about getting particles in the brake fluid.
What sort of grease is compatible with brake fluid (dot 3,4 or 5 or synthetic) assuming it's going to get in the system? Can brake grease be used (the stuff for the sliding pins)?
@@richbinaz I’m a master auto tech and this is what we did at both the dealerships and Indy shops I worked at and it’s also what we learned in school. You can use any synthetic grease like Urea grease, silicon paste, or even lithium grease. It won’t get into the brake fluid if you put a minimal amount on the threads because it will seat itself in between the threads as you install the bleeder screw. The bleeder screw is positioned after the sealed brake piston assembly so there is no vacuum suction at that point when the screw is closed thus you don’t have to worry about the grease getting in the fluid & honestly you could just ignore the small bubbles in the tube when bleeding the brakes in the first place because those are just bubbles from air getting in between the bleeder valve threads when you open it to bleed the brakes & not air that’s actually in your braking system.
@@statusquoreject Mr B's video is extolling the virtue of creating a vacuum to draw the brake fluid out thru the bleed valve, in an attempt to remove air from the system. Low tolerance threads have a spiral gap across the threads which will allow air to enter the vacuum device, even with the valve closed.
In my mind I see that grease will be drawn thru the threads, at a slow rate depending on the viscosity and out thru the bleed hole, without much chance to mix with the brake fluid in the system, but there is a small chance. So the grease used needs to be compatible with not only the fluid, but also the seals.
I have used teflon tape a lot in pressure systems and have not seen it break down into tiny fragments, but it does seal threads (including tapered threads) and can continue to do so when opened slightly in other situations. Teflon is also inert and will not react with the fluid or seals.
Air in the brakes not only gives spongy brakes and long pedal travel, but also brake drag and corrosion in the system, so any method that avoids that situation is good.
I prefer to use the pedal pumping method and I can wait to get a helper. I can see that not happening with a mechanic that is under the gun to get the job done, so another solution is required. This one has merit.
@@richbinaz you can do it however you want, that’s your prerogative… I’m just telling you how professional auto techs do it and how we are literally taught when being trained. I’ve been a tech for many years and used grease on thousands of cars and I know it works and it doesn’t get drawn back into the system. The grease used is commonly available at every auto parts store.
Don’t get into the paralysis through analysis mode, theorizing something is not the same as having performed it many times and knowing what the actual real world results are. The threads on a bleeder screw are pretty tight and not as coarse/open as you think because they’re meant to seal fluid against pressure. Fluid doesn’t come out through the threads, it comes through a hole in the bleeder screw, so there’s no way grease is going to get inside unless you clog the hole in the screw with it. Also Teflon tape is not insert. I have seen it clog master cylinders, caliper piston assemblies, proportioning valves, and brake lines. If you want to use tape that’s your decision, but why not do it the way professionals do it when it’s a known legit industry standard method, safer, and faster. Or as I said ignore the tiny bubbles altogether because if you don’t have a spongy pedal, then you don’t have air in the system.
As far as pumping the brakes, be sure not to press the pedal all the way to the floor. Doing so can tear the seal in the master cylinder. Stop a few inches short of the bottom of pedal travel. Vacuum bleeding is more prone to getting air gaps & bubbles in general. If you’re bleeding brakes by yourself the best way to do it using positive pressure or use it in addition to vacuum. Just buy a cheap pump sprayer (less than $20 in most stores) connect the output hose to a fluid nipple or quick connect. You can buy a specific or universal master cylinder bleeding cap for your master cylinder that’s comes with a fluid fitting (or make your own) and connect that to your pump sprayer hose. Now you can just fill the pump sprayer with brake fluid pump it to 10-12 psi and the fluid will push/flush its way through the system automatically when you open the bleeder screws & you can effectively bleed brakes by yourself. The pump is a cheap one time cost & then you have it for life & it works better and faster than trying to spray it out of the bleed screw with a spray nozzle that can introduce air back into the system when letting go of the trigger. Do whatever your prefer and best of luck.
Like 👍 the idea. But how sure are we can that sprayer can make enough of a vacuum to effectively bleed the brakes. Because under road conditions your brake pedal has to stop the rolling weight amd speed of the car
Thanks for sharing! What would cause a brake pedal to have a long travel and a noticeable delay between pressing the brake pedal and the brakes engaging!
Brake shoes out of adjustment or possibly a master cylinder issue. Sorry for the late reply!
Good Morning Mr.B Can I used this same setup on 09 Toyota Prius when I replaces the ABS unit bleed the brakes line on each wheel with flesh brake fluid. Oh can add some brake fluid into ABS unit it would have some flesh brake fluid would speed up the brakes job?
I'm calling from Houston TX my name is Michael.
I've seen other vacuum pumps do the job, but I don't quite understand how they work. If the master cylinder is in the un-pushed condition, how does a vacuum at the wheel pull brake fluid through the master cylinder from the reservoir?
I had air leak around the threads of the bleeder. Coat the treads with grease so blocks air around threads when loosened. Don't get grease inside the cylinder though.
Use red rubber grease, approved for use in brake systems. Ordinary grease is death to the rubber seals in brake systems.
You'll have to precisely judge where to grease the valve
Can wipe a little synthetic grease around the bleeder screw base help stop air from seeping in also
Good tip!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB By the way great video im doing this tomorrow
@@roltyd22 good luck with your repair! Tell us how it goes.
I started bleeding with furthest away wheel. Never got the reservoir less than min. Did all four wheels and they are all clear now and I never saw air bubbles in the hose however, I hear air in the system and brakes feel soft. How did air get in the system and how can I get it out?
With the loosen bleeder valve dont you suck in air into the system going past the threads into the caliper with all that vacuum ?
Not when you just unscrew the bleeder valve just a bit that way threads are still sealed
@@habebs7345 You are correct I dont know what I was thinking that day . I used to be a tech and we had pressure bleeders . Never use a suction type bleeder before
An electric weed killer sprayers are great ???
Could i use this method for a bleeding the clutch line?
Yes, it is worth a shot
Can someone explain why is that "seeing no more air bubbles means old fluid is completely out"?
He means the air inside the system is completely out.
did you do this with brake fluid resivour cap open or closed ?
Shouldn’t matter but I think it was open.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB thanks man i just wanted to make sure before i go at it
I replaced 2 calipers, do I need to bleed all my brakes?
@manuelsalgado8510 not unless the fluid ran low enough to cause the master cylinder to empty
do I have to do that for every single tire?
Yes
Will this work with a clutch as well?
Yes, should work ok. Clutches are normally tough to bleed though.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB ok thank you
Road test video?
What happens if I let my master cylinder get to low?
pulls air into the lines, make sure the master cylinder's topped off while you're bleeding em
Bought a mity vac and took it back
Pretty much vacuum bleeding
Exactly!
Having to BUY hose is NOT considered HOUSEHOLD material. 😏😏😏😏
Your putting more air in then fluid in the bottle
get a wife
Spray bottle is way cheaper
And probably more reliable😊