I'm pretty old, and I've bled a lot of brakes, but today I was by my self, so I had to purchase a vacuum pump. I wanted to see how other folks did it, so I went to UA-cam, and I found your videos made the most sense out of the 4 or 5 I looked at. Thanks for the help
Excellent demo and explanation......was getting quite frustrated at other youtubers useless efforts and poor demos. This video is head and shoulders above all others I've seen. Well done
This has got to be The Best automotive tutorial I've seen on any topic on YT. I've watched hundreds of videos from a plethora of creators and this is literally answering my "what if''s" in real time. Fabulous!!! 🏆🥇🥇
After watching so many videos and After 3 days all day of trying different methods on bleeding the breaks I finally did it, I have breaks once again. With new rotors and pads on all four installed and full flush and it's now working better then ever I'm set. I'm glad I don't have to go through this again anytime soon. 👌👇🤘💪
Thanks, I've been trying to bleed the whole system after replacing a brake booster and even though iv got new fluid and no air from all calipers the pedal wasn't building pressure, I'll try with the ignition on, hopefully it was the abs thing
Rather than pinch the line to prevent fluid from draining you can get a vacuum line cap and slide it into the line in place of the bolt. Worked like a dream!
In the past I installed Russell speed bleeder screws. Replaces the stock screw with a screw that has a one way valve, so fluid and air only flows one way out. (One man bleeder method). Still using the clear hose running to a bottle to see the fluid.
I'm not stubborn guy that always use an assistant to pump the break and I pop the bleeders. I'm going to go out and buy one of these pumps. I don't do a lot of brake work in the last number of years. But even an old dog can learn something. Thank you
@@4DIYers man you’re awesome 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 That it was very simple and perfect explanation👍🏻 I just found one in my garage brand new in a box 😳 I forgot I had it and I needed it! I’m fixing to do my 72’ P/U - I have to change the master cylinder & have to bench bleed it - then I have to bleed all the brakes thank you thank you 🙏
Recently did a caliper swap on my Lexus and bought one of these for just such a job. I wasn't aware I had to have the cap off the master cylinder! That would explain why I couldn't get them to work and had to drag my friend out to help me.
For the amateurs out there, use the bottle in between. If you get brake fluid in the vacuum pump it will eat the rubber inside and ruin your pump on depending on what rubber it has inside. Learn from my experience!
You could put a small metal hose clamp to hug the hose onto the bleeder screw. Apparently you can put a bit of axle grease around the outside of the bleerlder to stop air entering - never tried it though
I have a compressor and bleeder(sealey),1 man bleeder etc but ya don't really need them. All you need to do is crack open the banjo bolt at caliper and gravity bleed 1st .this gets the line full and let's you then do the normal bleeding way afterwards
Thank you for detailed tutoring video. I subscribed. One thing I would like to clarify. I know that the brake pedal should be pumped at the end of the bleeding all four wheels. Can I pump the brake pedal after finishing each wheel. Would it help to figure it out that air is out of the currently bled line, and I can proceed to the next wheel. I am not sure if it will help but want to make sure this will not screw all process. Also, I will replace the front bleeder screws. I guess I have to replace the bleeder's screw first and then just to continue following your tutoring procedure. I will appreciate all answers from all knowledgeable DIY.
Thank you so much for the kind words and support! Pumping during each wheel unfortunately won’t help to determine if air is still present in that specific wheel. You can replace the bleeder screws while working on that specific wheel.
One thing I would add is, unless you know the fluid in the system is nearly new, I would recommend drawing as much of the old fluid out of the reservoir as you can before topping it up with fresh fluid and beginning the bleeding process. One disadvantage of the vacuum method (I use a vac bleeder connected to an airline) is that it is hard to be sure that all the air is gone while drawing a vacuum, because of the air leaking through the bleed screw threads, so I let it gravity bleed for a few seconds after releasing the vacuum, to confirm there are no more bubbles coming out before closing the screw.
Hi 4DIYers, I have a similar vacuum pump that's having issues. When I went to bleed my brakes today any time I let go of the pump lever the vacuum would leak from the handle end of the vacuum cylinder. Any thoughts?
I realize this is an old video so you may not see this but it looked like there was still a lot of air bubbles coming out when you were "finished". How would you know you are done if that much air is still coming out?
So do you keep cap open or closed when pumping the fluid. Also do you pump and wait or do you continue pumping until all the fluid is GONE than top it off
When vac is applied to the open bleeder screw will outside air be drawn in at the bleeder threads and into. Through the vac pump? If so it would look like air still in the system ! You were vaque on this
Typically if you have air from the threads it will be fairly evenly spaced, small bubbles and frequent. Air in the line is usually either a few small bubbles or a single large one, of course YMMV.
I tore a small hole in the outside of the rubber part which surrounds around the caliper piston. Will that cause a problem? Trying to figure out if that rubber part which goes around the caliper piston as you have shown in beginning of the video in your caliper rebuild is a dust cover or a seal? If a seal then I need to replace is what I'm trying to determine?
Not immediately, but will cause a problem eventually. Dirt and moisture will work it's way around the piston and fluid seal. Best to fix it before it causes more problems and money.
Thank you! I like both, I'll use a vacuum pump for smaller jobs. Some brakes systems can be finicky, so a pressure bleeder will typically overcome that and it's very convenient when doing work on the full system.
It will ruin the seal and no longer work. Keep the pump above the bottle to help avoid such a situation. Ideally keep the bottle above the caliper too, given air rises.
Thanks for the video. I ran the master cylinder dry doing my first time bleed using the manual method. Will this vacuum method also get the air out of the master?
No, and if you ran it dry all you need to do now is bleed all 4 calipers. The way I bleed master cylinders is pump brake, get someone to hold pedal, crack the lines at the Mc until fluid comes out with no air
@@Kstang2790 Thanks for your reply. I wound up doing a variation of what you described. I was a little more strict to be sure it worked. (because I'm a noob) I loosened the lines to the MC, put a stick between the brake & front seat, slid the seat forward, tightened the lines, released the seat & brake... repeated 5 times. Caught all that fluid in a little bucket. Then bled all the brake lines again. Seemed to work. Next step is to drive around some country roads a bit & give her a test.
@@4DIYers I was using the vacuum pump to pull air out of the driver rear. It was working and got three cups. Air was becoming less and less so I figured I would have one more go when out of nowhere it started spitting a ton of air and now the flow to that wheel is minimal. I have no pedal at all. Should I bleed the brakes all around again and see if I can get some pedal again? I need to run the ABS but don't have access to a diagnostic OBD2 tool. I get pressure with a few presses when the car is off but when it is on, straight to the floor and have no stopping power. Is it possible I was using too much vacuum on the hand pump at the beginning?
You will need to activate the ABS module, you maybe able to operate it with the key in the on position. Did you brake reservoir get low during the bleeding process?
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this is far better than the old video
Thank you!
I'm pretty old, and I've bled a lot of brakes, but today I was by my self, so I had to purchase a vacuum pump. I wanted to see how other folks did it, so I went to UA-cam, and I found your videos made the most sense out of the 4 or 5 I looked at. Thanks for the help
Happy I was able to help and thank you so much for the kind words, really appreciate it!
Excellent demo and explanation......was getting quite frustrated at other youtubers useless efforts and poor demos. This video is head and shoulders above all others I've seen. Well done
Thank you so much for the kind words and feedback!
This has got to be The Best automotive tutorial I've seen on any topic on YT. I've watched hundreds of videos from a plethora of creators and this is literally answering my "what if''s" in real time.
Fabulous!!! 🏆🥇🥇
Thank you so much for the kind words and feedback, greatly appreciated!
After watching so many videos and After 3 days all day of trying different methods on bleeding the breaks I finally did it, I have breaks once again. With new rotors and pads on all four installed and full flush and it's now working better then ever I'm set. I'm glad I don't have to go through this again anytime soon. 👌👇🤘💪
Great 👍🏻👍🏻🐴 I’m fixing to Do my 72’ p/u
If you have “breaks” once again… isn’t it still broken?
Thanks, I've been trying to bleed the whole system after replacing a brake booster and even though iv got new fluid and no air from all calipers the pedal wasn't building pressure, I'll try with the ignition on, hopefully it was the abs thing
Thanks for the video, makes it way easier when you don't have an extra set of hands.
You’re welcome and I agree. A pressure bleeder is another option but more expensive.
Rather than pinch the line to prevent fluid from draining you can get a vacuum line cap and slide it into the line in place of the bolt. Worked like a dream!
Great tip, thanks for sharing!
In the past I installed Russell speed bleeder screws. Replaces the stock screw with a screw that has a one way valve, so fluid and air only flows one way out. (One man bleeder method). Still using the clear hose running to a bottle to see the fluid.
Great tip, I'll have to look into those!
I'm not stubborn guy that always use an assistant to pump the break and I pop the bleeders. I'm going to go out and buy one of these pumps. I don't do a lot of brake work in the last number of years. But even an old dog can learn something. Thank you
You’re very welcome! It’s definitely worth having. I have used this pump for other things too like extracting fluid or testing vacuum actuators.
Thank you! So thorough! I just needed to know if I need it to take off the cap off master cylinder reservoir.
You're welcome!
Good job mate. Your tuition provides the confidence to take the initiative for life long learning. Thumbs up and keep up the good work.
Awesome to hear and thank you so much for the feedback!
@@4DIYers man you’re awesome 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
That it was very simple and perfect explanation👍🏻 I just found one in my garage brand new in a box 😳 I forgot I had it and I needed it! I’m fixing to do my 72’ P/U - I have to change the master cylinder & have to bench bleed it - then I have to bleed all the brakes thank you thank you 🙏
Recently did a caliper swap on my Lexus and bought one of these for just such a job. I wasn't aware I had to have the cap off the master cylinder! That would explain why I couldn't get them to work and had to drag my friend out to help me.
For the amateurs out there, use the bottle in between. If you get brake fluid in the vacuum pump it will eat the rubber inside and ruin your pump on depending on what rubber it has inside. Learn from my experience!
haha this is what happened to my my first time using pump. It spit brake fluid all other the place.
super glue a magnet to the bottle and slap it onto the caliper
You could put a small metal hose clamp to hug the hose onto the bleeder screw.
Apparently you can put a bit of axle grease around the outside of the bleerlder to stop air entering - never tried it though
Thanks for the excellent explanation
You are welcome!
Thanks a lot for helping out. God bless.
You’re welcome!
I completely forgot this pump existed, I could have used it with doing a full brake job on a restoration recently!!
I just found mine in my old garage I didn’t even know I had it bought it at Harbor freight Several years Ago 😳
Great video! Since bubbles in the plastic tube is normal, how do you know when all the air is out of your line?
Close the bleeder screw while pumping, when the hose is filled with just fluid no bubbles about two inches after the bleeder screw. Should be good.
Very nice guide 👍🏼
Thank you for the feedback!
Yes it was
I have a compressor and bleeder(sealey),1 man bleeder etc but ya don't really need them. All you need to do is crack open the banjo bolt at caliper and gravity bleed 1st .this gets the line full and let's you then do the normal bleeding way afterwards
Thank you for detailed tutoring video. I subscribed. One thing I would like to clarify. I know that the brake pedal should be pumped at the end of the bleeding all four wheels.
Can I pump the brake pedal after finishing each wheel. Would it help to figure it out that air is out of the currently bled line, and I can proceed to the next wheel.
I am not sure if it will help but want to make sure this will not screw all process. Also, I will replace the front bleeder screws. I guess I have to replace the bleeder's screw first and then just to continue following your tutoring procedure.
I will appreciate all answers from all knowledgeable DIY.
Thank you so much for the kind words and support! Pumping during each wheel unfortunately won’t help to determine if air is still present in that specific wheel. You can replace the bleeder screws while working on that specific wheel.
Great video. Well done and to the point. Thanks.
Thank you so much ❤
You're welcome!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
One thing I would add is, unless you know the fluid in the system is nearly new, I would recommend drawing as much of the old fluid out of the reservoir as you can before topping it up with fresh fluid and beginning the bleeding process. One disadvantage of the vacuum method (I use a vac bleeder connected to an airline) is that it is hard to be sure that all the air is gone while drawing a vacuum, because of the air leaking through the bleed screw threads, so I let it gravity bleed for a few seconds after releasing the vacuum, to confirm there are no more bubbles coming out before closing the screw.
Yes. Key information using vac.Pumps to bleed brakes
To eliminate air entering through the bleeder threads put some grease around the bleeder
I tried the hand vacuum pump and the automatic one that uses the car tyre. I prefer the automatic one. Much easier and faster.
Hi 4DIYers, I have a similar vacuum pump that's having issues. When I went to bleed my brakes today any time I let go of the pump lever the vacuum would leak from the handle end of the vacuum cylinder. Any thoughts?
Great guide
Thank you!
Thank you, happy I could help!
No the short hose goes inside of the bottle , suppose to have the other long hose in between the pump and bottle
Will the vacuum bleed pull air out of the master cylinder, or just the lines and wheel cylinders.
I realize this is an old video so you may not see this but it looked like there was still a lot of air bubbles coming out when you were "finished". How would you know you are done if that much air is still coming out?
You can apply grease around the base of the bleeder screw. This will help prevent air from being pulled in around the threads.
So do you keep cap open or closed when pumping the fluid. Also do you pump and wait or do you continue pumping until all the fluid is GONE than top it off
When vac is applied to the open bleeder screw will outside air be drawn in at the bleeder threads and into. Through the vac pump? If so it would look like air still in the system ! You were vaque on this
Nice. That is key information when using hand operated vac. Pumps. Thank you
Typically if you have air from the threads it will be fairly evenly spaced, small bubbles and frequent. Air in the line is usually either a few small bubbles or a single large one, of course YMMV.
Which is the cheapest OBD2 scan tool you recommend to activate the ABS?
Thanks for the video.
Do you do this with the cap(master brake) off or on ?
With the cap off.
@@4DIYers thanks
I tore a small hole in the outside of the rubber part which surrounds around the caliper piston. Will that cause a problem? Trying to figure out if that rubber part which goes around the caliper piston as you have shown in beginning of the video in your caliper rebuild is a dust cover or a seal? If a seal then I need to replace is what I'm trying to determine?
Not immediately, but will cause a problem eventually. Dirt and moisture will work it's way around the piston and fluid seal. Best to fix it before it causes more problems and money.
Great video. Do you prefer this method or using a pressure bleeder?
Thank you! I like both, I'll use a vacuum pump for smaller jobs. Some brakes systems can be finicky, so a pressure bleeder will typically overcome that and it's very convenient when doing work on the full system.
What if fluid gets in the pump?
It will ruin the seal and no longer work. Keep the pump above the bottle to help avoid such a situation. Ideally keep the bottle above the caliper too, given air rises.
Thanks...
theres no liquid coming out when i loosen it or very little but the pressure is going down very fast
The bleeder can be plugged with dirt or rust. Use a small drill bit by hand to clean it out.
Thanks for the video. I ran the master cylinder dry doing my first time bleed using the manual method. Will this vacuum method also get the air out of the master?
No, and if you ran it dry all you need to do now is bleed all 4 calipers. The way I bleed master cylinders is pump brake, get someone to hold pedal, crack the lines at the Mc until fluid comes out with no air
@@Kstang2790 Thanks for your reply. I wound up doing a variation of what you described. I was a little more strict to be sure it worked. (because I'm a noob) I loosened the lines to the MC, put a stick between the brake & front seat, slid the seat forward, tightened the lines, released the seat & brake... repeated 5 times. Caught all that fluid in a little bucket. Then bled all the brake lines again. Seemed to work. Next step is to drive around some country roads a bit & give her a test.
@@Kstang2790 did it get on the paint ?
I heard you can put grease on the nipples threads to stop air passing
Yes that is an option.
What happens when you are still getting air out when out of nowhere no fluid is coming out at all?
Is the bleeder plugged?
@@4DIYers I was using the vacuum pump to pull air out of the driver rear. It was working and got three cups. Air was becoming less and less so I figured I would have one more go when out of nowhere it started spitting a ton of air and now the flow to that wheel is minimal. I have no pedal at all. Should I bleed the brakes all around again and see if I can get some pedal again? I need to run the ABS but don't have access to a diagnostic OBD2 tool.
I get pressure with a few presses when the car is off but when it is on, straight to the floor and have no stopping power.
Is it possible I was using too much vacuum on the hand pump at the beginning?
You will need to activate the ABS module, you maybe able to operate it with the key in the on position. Did you brake reservoir get low during the bleeding process?
says "use a 6 point box end wrench"........proceeds to use a 12 point
This tool is crap !! Get a sealey pump so much better