@@blackterminal it's ok to play music but very soft quiet like music not music playing in the same volume as like when your talking Or like the one person said revving the engine
are you telling me i had this tool for 2 months and just now figured out how to use it? thanks. i will update you when i eventually get around to bleeding them lol
What a great video sir. I tried to bleed the brakes yesterday on a 2019 VW Tiguan . Changed rear rotors and pads . Over torqued a caliper pin and it broke off in the caliper with the threaded side stuck in the hole . So now I have a new problem. However after watching your video . I realize my own tool is defective. The needle is not moving when I squeeze the trigger at all. I put in the little o-rings on the inside of the cap before sealing it .
I just inherited my dad's 03 f150 you just made my life so much easier cuz I just had to replace the master cylinder cuz it had an internal leak in the seals
Yup it will really help me, yes your so right, DIY would save you money plus the fact that your sure that doing it for your self job is really done right as any owner wanted it to be. Thanks bro. By the way, I'm from the Philippines 🇵🇭
This makes more sense strat from the front going to the rear all the other videos I’ve been watching started bleeding from the rear passenger end which and then the front it will defeat the purpose of bleeding out the air in the system
Its actually better to start furthest from the master since that is the longest line holding the most air so you get more air out faster starting furthest. Ive done it both ways, they both work, but i tend to like starting furthest. By the time you get to the front, there is less air than starting closest.
I tried with the same bleeder tool and I don't know if it's me or what but I used a whole quart of braking fluid and it seems the air never finished coming out.
Two things. Every other video says start from the break that is farthest from the ABS unit and work your way to the closest. Second ... why open close open close? Why not just open Just open Pump it out until it's clear then close one time.
His bleeding reservoir is small. Needs to be emptied. Also need to make sure you don't bleed the master cylinder dry and introduce new air into the system. So you stop and go check that periodically.
I enjoyed the video, but I’ve read several other places where one should start bleeding at the furthest wheel from the master cylinder. In the case of ABS vehicles, one should start at the furthest wheel from the ABS module.
Rule of thumb is start to wheel farthest to the driver side which is the right rear wheel. But refer to ur service manual coz theyre not all the same. My car says I start at driver side front wheel.
I watched 10 videos of this today and I’m glad I found yours! You got straight to the point with detailed instructions and you did the JOB CORRECT! Thanks Bro
Mine from AutoZone didn't come with directions either. They really just quit caring about little details like quality of construction and quality build.
I appreciate the no b.s. approach, but was it driving anyone else nuts that he kept talking about the vacuum pump as "building up pressure"?? And then referring to the "p.s.i." on the gauge, lmao. I know what he meant, just pointing out that error in case some viewer is new to brake bleeding/vacuum pumps
How many minutes per brake do you estimate it took you to bleed the fluid until there was no bubbles? I've had my truck for 2 years now , same year make and model as yours and just can't seem to get those bubbles out. I've checked everywhere for no leaks and I think maybe I'm not seeing that perhaps maybe it's because it's a bigger vehicle why it's taking so long for these bubbles to get out.
I really liked your style of video and your way of showing kinda what its like for the "not as affluent" do it yourself person. The only thing I disagreed with is your order of bleeding. All cars are different and the standard with abs is furthest from the cylinder then next, etc. But there are exceptions to every rule. It's free and easy to look up your vehicle and see what the recommendation is. Safety 1st and all that. Otherwise you were spot on. You also did a great job of showing the process the air in the line, etc. You also set up your shots and then had to hold the camera so in my book your top notch. I think everyone that comes across a video like this can appreciate it immediately. Hope you are well and life's good, as I'm 2 years late to this video.
Small point of correction on an otherwise awesome video. You want to bleed from farthest to nearest in respect to the master cylinder, not nearest to farthest. Resource: ASE A5 certification.
I tend to agree. Thats the way i do it. My last job, the manager swore by closest first. Ive had it work just as well both ways. Some cars/manufacturers actually do say to start closest to the master, mostly some newer cars.
Idk if you still respond to people on here but here it goes…What could possibly be wrong if the vacuum pump from the bleeder kit is losing suction and bringing a little bit of fluid out of the bleeder valve while the valve is still tight?
You Should ALWAYS!!! START From The B Lines furthes from the B. Master cyclinder. To avoid the issues like u had. NO fluid comlng out your driver side brakes system.
Thanks my fellow american brother.I appriciate your trauning video good job.I had not used this bleeder kit.I have always used a secind person.usually my mother or brother.Wr had mechanic fun in our terns.disagreement on hiw to.lol.He passed at 24 years old in 99.Mom cant help these days.I just had test in my heart last two days.Your quike training regreshed my memery and how to connect the reservoir. NO instructions from the zone.Keep promotting the ametican sport by
just replaced my strut/shocks on the rear of my Celica. bough this in anticipation of bleeding by myself. Thanks for the video, way better than the non-existent instructions that came with it.
Will this “vacuum” bleeder tool works on older cars that has a proportioning valve? I have a 1978 olds cutlass that has a proportioning valve and I tried using those “pressure” bleeding tool and brake fluid wasn’t streaming out of the rear wheel cylinder.
There's a difference between pressure bleeding and vacuum bleeding. Pressure bleeding you are actually pushing the air through the line and out the master cylinder. Vacuum bleeding you are pulling the out the line through the bleeder. With a pressure bleeder, you have to have a container full of fluid so it pushes the fluid into the bleeder and the air out the master. Both ways you always want to have full fluid because if you run the fluid down you start getting air in the system and have to start over. You can also gravity bleed. Just keep the master full, crack the bleeder, and let the fluid run out until theres no more air and all clear/new fluid, then close the bleeder. No air enters the system unless you run the master dry, or press then release the brake pedal w the bleeder open. You can press the pedal down w the bleeder open, but you can not release the pedal until the bleeder is closed or it will suck air. But thats only if you're doing the 2 person way, which actually does work best because it forces the air out with much more pressure.
I have a tip for people following this video. Do not put your old fluid in a container that you are accustomed to using. For example, I drink caffeine-free diet coke. I should not have used one of those bottles to put my old fluid in. NOPE, I should not have done that. Fortunately, I did not swallow the brake fluid, but I've spent the last two hours rinsing out my mouth. It looked like coke and well . . .
Should use the vacuum pump to suck out the old fluid from that master cylinder before adding new fluid it will keep you from pulling so much old fluid through the lines and will save you from wasting a lot of new brake fluid
You can remove most of the master cylinder but make sure to leave enough so it doesn't take air. You'll be bench bleeding master cylinder. Pull-out what you can safely and add new oil. Good luck
@@bostonbillyduchaney5655 only if you suck out all the old fluid and pump the brakes or have a line busted there will still be fluid in the lines because of the seals on the piston in the master cylinder so no worries about getting air in the lines
Hey buddy had a question I’m running into problems I have a 1997 F150 XLT 4.6 L 4 x 4 and I bled the brakes system put new oil & seals on the brake calipers and drum brake pistons put a new brake master cylinder and brake booster and tested the ABS module by sticking a stick in the little hole and pressing on the brake and it does not move the stick supposedly that sign is good but my brakes are still spongy meaning it sinks in half way And driving at 25 miles an hour residence I stepped hard on the brakes and it takes about 1.5 or 2 seconds to come to a stop but I want my brakes to bite on the rotors and it’s not doing that is this normal or do I need to plug a scanner so it could auto bleed mode to complete the service so it could break hard? I heard this from a GMC Tech veteran who said that I might need to hook up scanner just like the GMC trucks. I hope u can help with good info. I want my truck To leave tread marks on the ground when I slam the brakes hard I want my brace to bite the rotors just like my Mazda 2002 but I don’t know where ABS is the Design to not do this.
Major respect!! Thank you for taking the time to be so helpful. The enhanced calm that you have takes the stress factor down so much! You have a new fan sir, thank you, I hope you have a great day!!!
Yes if you have a Ford 150 you don't need to jack it up. But if you have a recently manufactured car most likely it will be rather low to the ground. You may have to jack it up. Also, in my experience with my 2015 Honda Fit, even though my brakes did not need bleeding, and I was simply flushing the old dirty fluid out of all the lines, my vacuum pump kept pulling air bubbles though the tubing. Eventually I realized that by cracking the bleeder valve only 1/2 a turn or even less, what may have been happening was that air was being sucked in from around the threads of the bleeder valve. Supposedly an "old mechanic's trick" is to put a little multipurpose grease around the threads. However I had trouble getting grease to that spot. The area was rather crowded with things. Also, I kind of worry that with grease around the threads, when screwing the bleeder valve back in some grease might be forced into the system. So I decided that next time I was going to look for a helper bleed the brakes using the push method rather than the pull method. That is, get someone to step on the brake pedal while I open the valve, and allow the pedal back up after I close the valve. Or I could save a few minutes by using a check-valve, a one-way valve. Auto parts stores describe these as being a "one-man bleeder tool." They really are not "one-person" bleeder tools because you can't work the brake pedal and see any air bubbles in the tubing, at the same time. However they cost practically nothing and can save a few minutes of time off of the job.
My man…. Just what I wanted to see someone doing it without taking the tires off. I think I can even reach through the wheel itself because of the spokes on my car. One question though… is it not better to start bleed at the farthest caliper because then it draws the remaining air to the ones ahead of it?
This might seem a dumb question but I have put lots of air in my slave cylinder clutch line.. will this suck out the air I was silly enough to put in the line?
Been doing brakes for years...never heard of doing the the front left first...wth...always passenger side first...and use a reverse bleeder works 100% better and effective...
@@jakefriesenjake reverse bleeds you push fluid through the bleeder valve into the caliper and push the air out the top on the master instead of sucking the air out vacuum bleeding. But no, reverse bleeding is not better, especially for older cars, it can ruin the seals because the pressure is pushing on them the opposite way they are meant to.
@@jacksmith2315 I tried all methods. It would not bleed fully. What I ended up doing was loosening off the mc bolts so I make it level, then the bubbles could escape from inside the mc. (I did bench bleed the mc initially) I believe that I ended up pumping the pedal with a hose on the bleeder. Pumped slowly and held it with a stick, then loosen the bleeder, over and over (didn't have a partner to help). Brakes are awesome now.
Great video but how does working from front to rear work any better than the traditional rear to front. Great to the point instructions. I think I'll get one on my commercial Auto Zone account
I was doing it all wrong i sucked some into the pump the first time second time couldnt find the o ring to seal collections cup thus no suckie suckie guess its warranty time unless you know where i can get that special o ring
In your opinion. Do you think you would use this if you had a kid that needed some extra chores, or would you put the kid to work? It seems to be a bit better at evacuating the air while not going through as much brake fluid. Or maybe there was just a lot of air in the truck’s brake lines. Great Chanel BTW.
A video great and great job man! You were right every other video says start with the caliper farthest away from the master cylinder! I've worked in auto dealerships my whole life and I've had mechanics tell me it doesn't matter what will you start with as long as you get all the air out of the lines. Again great job keep up the good work bro!
Awesome video you should teach classes to these UA-camrs that over complicate things. Keep up the good work an keep it simple. Oh yea whoever reads this subscribe to this man's channel. Thanks bro you rocked this video.
Really good video! No B.S., no obnoxious music, no reving engine sounds, just great instructions.
Instruction on how to be a idiot
REV UP YOUR ENGINEEEEEEES!
NO ride a donkey like Jesus
Yes I dislike the music too. I heard it increases views but gaaa it's annoying.
@@blackterminal it's ok to play music but very soft quiet like music not music playing in the same volume as like when your talking
Or like the one person said revving the engine
A true shade tree mechanic, no safety glasses, no gloves. I just bled brakes on my Ford E150 with the same tool. Thanks
are you telling me i had this tool for 2 months and just now figured out how to use it? thanks. i will update you when i eventually get around to bleeding them lol
What a great video sir.
I tried to bleed the brakes yesterday on a 2019 VW Tiguan . Changed rear rotors and pads . Over torqued a caliper pin and it broke off in the caliper with the threaded side stuck in the hole . So now I have a new problem.
However after watching your video .
I realize my own tool is defective. The needle is not moving when I squeeze the trigger at all. I put in the little o-rings on the inside of the cap before sealing it .
I just inherited my dad's 03 f150 you just made my life so much easier cuz I just had to replace the master cylinder cuz it had an internal leak in the seals
Yup it will really help me, yes your so right, DIY would save you money plus the fact that your sure that doing it for your self job is really done right as any owner wanted it to be. Thanks bro. By the way, I'm from the Philippines 🇵🇭
It was $30.00 a year ago!! It’s now $40.00 a year later!!! Wow we are in trouble fokes!!
29.99 CAD in princess auto May 2023
Just bought the same one and it was $55 not including the 9.75% sales tax here in TN
$55 now 2024
@@fisher-ph7llwhere are you in tn?? I just bought the same one for 36$ north of Nashville.
@@pappynotpapi2070 i’m in Memphis
Thanks you are the best
Watching here from new York city
That's a real average dude right there..no fancy business..thanks Lad
Thanks a million for your help.
Very well explained.
If you're in Ireland I would buy you a beer 🍻
This makes more sense strat from the front going to the rear all the other videos I’ve been watching started bleeding from the rear passenger end which and then the front it will defeat the purpose of bleeding out the air in the system
I think it depends on if you pump the brakes or use the Vac kit.
Its actually better to start furthest from the master since that is the longest line holding the most air so you get more air out faster starting furthest. Ive done it both ways, they both work, but i tend to like starting furthest. By the time you get to the front, there is less air than starting closest.
He dose do it
Does this need to be done with it the vehicle on or off
Depending on the vehicle, the order is different. I know you kind of mentioned it.
Is the vacuum pump able to pull air out of a master cylinder (if there was air on it), or does it just pull air from the lines and wheel cylinders?
I should download the instructions
Great video, thanks!
those bubbles is what i came to see
Do u do it with the car ON or OFF?
How do you clean the vacuum pump hose lines after finishing the bleeding process?
good video Sir
THANK YOU
Good job appreciate it.
My vaccum won't build any pressure at all, any tips?
Great video. New subscriber
👍🏼👍🏼thank you
It's not pressure it's vacuum!
Larry which caliber is the caliper on your vehickal?
I thought you started at the farthest from the master. Are you just flushing the system
I tried with the same bleeder tool and I don't know if it's me or what but I used a whole quart of braking fluid and it seems the air never finished coming out.
Air is coming in at the bleeder screw threads And/or hose.. can put grease on it to prevent that
now do it right and start at the right rear
Those kinds of blenders dont work well on vehicles with abs.
👍
Two things. Every other video says start from the break that is farthest from the ABS unit and work your way to the closest.
Second ... why open close open close? Why not just open Just open Pump it out until it's clear then close one time.
His bleeding reservoir is small. Needs to be emptied. Also need to make sure you don't bleed the master cylinder dry and introduce new air into the system. So you stop and go check that periodically.
Your pulling a Vacuum. Holding a vacuum.
Hmmmm
Best part - no stupid intro rap like garbage
I enjoyed the video, but I’ve read several other places where one should start bleeding at the furthest wheel from the master cylinder. In the case of ABS vehicles, one should start at the furthest wheel from the ABS module.
Rule of thumb is start to wheel farthest to the driver side which is the right rear wheel. But refer to ur service manual coz theyre not all the same. My car says I start at driver side front wheel.
I watched 10 videos of this today and I’m glad I found yours! You got straight to the point with detailed instructions and you did the JOB CORRECT! Thanks Bro
Thank you. I purchased that same bleeding kit and could not find the instructions for using it. Your video made it very clear.
Mine from AutoZone didn't come with directions either. They really just quit caring about little details like quality of construction and quality build.
Same here...no instructions with the pump!!!😠😠😠
How the hell you put the seals on the lid
I second that notion
@@thomaselam2532 the rubber o ring actually sits on the top of the clear reservoir cup in a groove. Not in the lid.
Straight to the point! Clear, brief, and concise explanations on each step in the process. Superb instructional delivery. Way to go!
I appreciate the no b.s. approach, but was it driving anyone else nuts that he kept talking about the vacuum pump as "building up pressure"?? And then referring to the "p.s.i." on the gauge, lmao. I know what he meant, just pointing out that error in case some viewer is new to brake bleeding/vacuum pumps
THANK YOU FOR TAKING YOUR TIME TO HELP EVERYONE , INCLUDING MYSELF . CLEAR -STRIAGHT TO THE POINT-BEST DIY BRAKE BLEDDER VIDEO ONLINE.
How many minutes per brake do you estimate it took you to bleed the fluid until there was no bubbles? I've had my truck for 2 years now , same year make and model as yours and just can't seem to get those bubbles out. I've checked everywhere for no leaks and I think maybe I'm not seeing that perhaps maybe it's because it's a bigger vehicle why it's taking so long for these bubbles to get out.
I really liked your style of video and your way of showing kinda what its like for the "not as affluent" do it yourself person. The only thing I disagreed with is your order of bleeding. All cars are different and the standard with abs is furthest from the cylinder then next, etc. But there are exceptions to every rule. It's free and easy to look up your vehicle and see what the recommendation is. Safety 1st and all that. Otherwise you were spot on. You also did a great job of showing the process the air in the line, etc. You also set up your shots and then had to hold the camera so in my book your top notch. I think everyone that comes across a video like this can appreciate it immediately. Hope you are well and life's good, as I'm 2 years late to this video.
Small point of correction on an otherwise awesome video.
You want to bleed from farthest to nearest in respect to the master cylinder, not nearest to farthest.
Resource: ASE A5 certification.
I tend to agree. Thats the way i do it. My last job, the manager swore by closest first. Ive had it work just as well both ways. Some cars/manufacturers actually do say to start closest to the master, mostly some newer cars.
Great demo brother. I like your style with doing things as a “regular guy”. Now subscribed. 🇨🇦👍🏼
Imagine telling people they need to buy a "brake bleeding kit" lol
ITS VACUUM NOT PRESSURE
30 bucks for that bleeder ya right I just paid 84.99 at Canadian Tire for that bullshit🤣
You gotta bleed the far right passenger side first, then the left driver side second, then the passenger driver side third, then the driver side.
Idk if you still respond to people on here but here it goes…What could possibly be wrong if the vacuum pump from the bleeder kit is losing suction and bringing a little bit of fluid out of the bleeder valve while the valve is still tight?
So like I can never get my lug nuts off. I literally can't do anything with lug nuts seized on until the end of time
You Should ALWAYS!!! START From The B Lines furthes from the B. Master cyclinder. To avoid the issues like u had. NO fluid comlng out your driver side brakes system.
Thanks my fellow american brother.I appriciate your trauning video good job.I had not used this bleeder kit.I have always used a secind person.usually my mother or brother.Wr had mechanic fun in our terns.disagreement on hiw to.lol.He passed at 24 years old in 99.Mom cant help these days.I just had test in my heart last two days.Your quike training regreshed my memery and how to connect the reservoir. NO instructions from the zone.Keep promotting the ametican sport by
The brake fluid saturated tools on the paint is bad practice idk if it's been used if so naughty
just replaced my strut/shocks on the rear of my Celica. bough this in anticipation of bleeding by myself. Thanks for the video, way better than the non-existent instructions that came with it.
Great video! I like how you did it without removing the wheels.
It's vacuum, not pressure........ Right??
Will this “vacuum” bleeder tool works on older cars that has a proportioning valve? I have a 1978 olds cutlass that has a proportioning valve and I tried using those “pressure” bleeding tool and brake fluid wasn’t streaming out of the rear wheel cylinder.
There's a difference between pressure bleeding and vacuum bleeding. Pressure bleeding you are actually pushing the air through the line and out the master cylinder. Vacuum bleeding you are pulling the out the line through the bleeder. With a pressure bleeder, you have to have a container full of fluid so it pushes the fluid into the bleeder and the air out the master. Both ways you always want to have full fluid because if you run the fluid down you start getting air in the system and have to start over. You can also gravity bleed. Just keep the master full, crack the bleeder, and let the fluid run out until theres no more air and all clear/new fluid, then close the bleeder. No air enters the system unless you run the master dry, or press then release the brake pedal w the bleeder open. You can press the pedal down w the bleeder open, but you can not release the pedal until the bleeder is closed or it will suck air. But thats only if you're doing the 2 person way, which actually does work best because it forces the air out with much more pressure.
do you keep the master cylinder cap open or close?
I have a tip for people following this video. Do not put your old fluid in a container that you are accustomed to using. For example, I drink caffeine-free diet coke. I should not have used one of those bottles to put my old fluid in. NOPE, I should not have done that. Fortunately, I did not swallow the brake fluid, but I've spent the last two hours rinsing out my mouth. It looked like coke and well . . .
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Yup... Imagine a kid that will actually slump the whole thing before taking notice of the taste
Lmfao 😂
Never masturbate into a beer bottle
I like to hold the vinyl tube up right after leaving the bleeder, you see the bubbles coming out very well.
Great video with no BS, I need to see a video showing how to bleed a abs system after replacing a broken line without using a scanner tool. Thanks
Just found your channel great video great job Thank you 👍💪
You start furthest then work closest, you got it mixed up, but thank you for showing me how to use this tool no more help.
For my Honda the manual specifically states start front Left and work in a clockwise position till you get to rear left .
Should use the vacuum pump to suck out the old fluid from that master cylinder before adding new fluid it will keep you from pulling so much old fluid through the lines and will save you from wasting a lot of new brake fluid
You can remove most of the master cylinder but make sure to leave enough so it doesn't take air. You'll be bench bleeding master cylinder. Pull-out what you can safely and add new oil.
Good luck
@@bostonbillyduchaney5655 only if you suck out all the old fluid and pump the brakes or have a line busted there will still be fluid in the lines because of the seals on the piston in the master cylinder so no worries about getting air in the lines
Yes! Different strokes for diffent folks i like learning different techs techniques and incorporating them into my work style
So are you putting pressure on it or creating a vacuum with that tool?
Vacuum
I always spray bleeder valves with penetrating fluid before trying to loosen. Broke off a few before.
Thank you Sir
I appreciate your clear instructions plus your steady camera skills lol
Make repairs great again!
Are you supposed to keep the top opened where the fluid goes into?
Good clear instructions, advice, and video. Nice work
Hey buddy had a question I’m running into problems I have a 1997 F150 XLT 4.6 L 4 x 4 and I bled the brakes system put new oil & seals on the brake calipers and drum brake pistons put a new brake master cylinder and brake booster and tested the ABS module by sticking a stick in the little hole and pressing on the brake and it does not move the stick supposedly that sign is good but my brakes are still spongy meaning it sinks in half way And driving at 25 miles an hour residence I stepped hard on the brakes and it takes about 1.5 or 2 seconds to come to a stop but I want my brakes to bite on the rotors and it’s not doing that is this normal or do I need to plug a scanner so it could auto bleed mode to complete the service so it could break hard? I heard this from a GMC Tech veteran who said that I might need to hook up scanner just like the GMC trucks. I hope u can help with good info. I want my truck To leave tread marks on the ground when I slam the brakes hard I want my brace to bite the rotors just like my Mazda 2002 but I don’t know where ABS is the Design to not do this.
Major respect!! Thank you for taking the time to be so helpful. The enhanced calm that you have takes the stress factor down so much! You have a new fan sir, thank you, I hope you have a great day!!!
Great video brother 👊
Yes if you have a Ford 150 you don't need to jack it up. But if you have a recently manufactured car most likely it will be rather low to the ground. You may have to jack it up. Also, in my experience with my 2015 Honda Fit, even though my brakes did not need bleeding, and I was simply flushing the old dirty fluid out of all the lines, my vacuum pump kept pulling air bubbles though the tubing. Eventually I realized that by cracking the bleeder valve only 1/2 a turn or even less, what may have been happening was that air was being sucked in from around the threads of the bleeder valve. Supposedly an "old mechanic's trick" is to put a little multipurpose grease around the threads. However I had trouble getting grease to that spot. The area was rather crowded with things. Also, I kind of worry that with grease around the threads, when screwing the bleeder valve back in some grease might be forced into the system. So I decided that next time I was going to look for a helper bleed the brakes using the push method rather than the pull method. That is, get someone to step on the brake pedal while I open the valve, and allow the pedal back up after I close the valve. Or I could save a few minutes by using a check-valve, a one-way valve. Auto parts stores describe these as being a "one-man bleeder tool." They really are not "one-person" bleeder tools because you can't work the brake pedal and see any air bubbles in the tubing, at the same time. However they cost practically nothing and can save a few minutes of time off of the job.
thks you man!great mentality !keep up the good work and video!
Thank you!
🎉❤ awesome!
Far Out Dude...
thank you
I've always been able to bleed brakes by myself, with a glass bottle or jar and a length of clear plastic tubing. Never owned a vacuum pump.
From a back woodsman, in Scotland. To a back woodsman in the US. Thanks for the video.
Great job of bleeding the brakes and demonstrating the brake bleeding tool.
My man…. Just what I wanted to see someone doing it without taking the tires off. I think I can even reach through the wheel itself because of the spokes on my car. One question though… is it not better to start bleed at the farthest caliper because then it draws the remaining air to the ones ahead of it?
This might seem a dumb question but I have put lots of air in my slave cylinder clutch line.. will this suck out the air I was silly enough to put in the line?
Been doing brakes for years...never heard of doing the the front left first...wth...always passenger side first...and use a reverse bleeder works 100% better and effective...
Which reverse bleeder kit?
@@jakefriesenjake reverse bleeds you push fluid through the bleeder valve into the caliper and push the air out the top on the master instead of sucking the air out vacuum bleeding. But no, reverse bleeding is not better, especially for older cars, it can ruin the seals because the pressure is pushing on them the opposite way they are meant to.
@@jacksmith2315 I tried all methods. It would not bleed fully. What I ended up doing was loosening off the mc bolts so I make it level, then the bubbles could escape from inside the mc. (I did bench bleed the mc initially) I believe that I ended up pumping the pedal with a hose on the bleeder. Pumped slowly and held it with a stick, then loosen the bleeder, over and over (didn't have a partner to help). Brakes are awesome now.
Great video but how does working from front to rear work any better than the traditional rear to front. Great to the point instructions. I think I'll get one on my commercial Auto Zone account
Great video
Do I need to close the cap of my master cylinder reservoir while doing this it has to be open ?
I was doing it all wrong i sucked some into the pump the first time second time couldnt find the o ring to seal collections cup thus no suckie suckie guess its warranty time unless you know where i can get that special o ring
Looking to do my 2001 f150. If more people are videos like this DIY would be easier
thanks for the info and tip. I just order the brake bleeder
Thank you for explaining it the simplest way possible very good explanation going to give it a shot !
Did any one have issues making a solid connection with the bleeder valve with the hose? The valve was too small to get an air tight connection.
In your opinion. Do you think you would use this if you had a kid that needed some extra chores, or would you put the kid to work? It seems to be a bit better at evacuating the air while not going through as much brake fluid. Or maybe there was just a lot of air in the truck’s brake lines. Great Chanel BTW.
Keep up promoting the American spirit to be indepent being self reliant on each other take care of our own.Thank Sir.
A video great and great job man!
You were right every other video says start with the caliper farthest away from the master cylinder!
I've worked in auto dealerships my whole life and I've had mechanics tell me it doesn't matter what will you start with as long as you get all the air out of the lines.
Again great job keep up the good work bro!
That's the kind of videos we need. Direct to the point no b... sh...t. thank you so much.
Awesome video you should teach classes to these UA-camrs that over complicate things. Keep up the good work an keep it simple. Oh yea whoever reads this subscribe to this man's channel. Thanks bro you rocked this video.