How To Use HF Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder - One Person Job
Вставка
- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- In this video I will show you how to do a one person brake bleed using this pneumatic brake fluid bleeding tool. You will need to connect this to an air compressor to use this too. This video will show you everything you need to know.
======
Buy this brake bleeder tool
US: amzn.to/2QEuHLb
CDN: amzn.to/2HctLtW
Shop Air Compressors
US: amzn.to/323jNCU
CDN: amzn.to/2JyYAKB
**TOOLS:
Disc Brake Pad Spreader Tool
US: amzn.to/2GmDige
CDN: amzn.to/2nAWamv
Wire Brush
US: amzn.to/2YT70VT
CDN: amzn.to/3zJrC4j
Lisle 30200 Hand Impact Tool Set - 7 Piece
US: amzn.to/2pV4k8s
CDN: amzn.to/2nCxcmV
1/2" Metric Impact Socket Set
US: amzn.to/2pbo6dN
CDN: amzn.to/2lUlHqq
1/4” & 3/8” Socket Set - 69 Pieces
US: amzn.to/2Gnwb7k
CDN: amzn.to/2lp5t8f
Neiko ½” Adjustable Torque Wrench, 50 to 250-Foot Pound
US: amzn.to/2Gp1vCH
CDN: amzn.to/2mZ19x7
Neiko 3/8" Adjustable Torque Wrench, 15-80 Foot-Pound
US: amzn.to/2FO55s9
CDN: amzn.to/2m5xmCB
TEKTON 30 Pcs Combination Wrench Set - Metric & Imperial
US: amzn.to/2ZJzqhx
CDN: amzn.to/2mZ2dB7
Screwdriver Set
US: amzn.to/3hd3bpt
CDN: amzn.to/3Nz6WS0
20V Electric Impact Wrench
US: amzn.to/3WzvqyA
CDN: amzn.to/3DwTOs6
P261 Impact Wrench Tool & Battery Combo
amzn.to/2pUvxW6
3/8" Electric Ratchet
US: amzn.to/3U2skSa
CDN: amzn.to/3U4paNK
**FLOOR JACK & JACK STANDS:
3 Ton Floor Jack
US: amzn.to/3NxXD4Y
CDN: amzn.to/3FP0mVI
2 Ton Jack Stands
US: amzn.to/2HwZqDV
CDN: amzn.to/2llElaa
3 Ton Jack Stands
US: amzn.to/2ntTUgH
CDN: amzn.to/3fB9DG8
Wheel Chalk Block
US: amzn.to/3E0wVPa
CDN: amzn.to/3FLbX88
**LUBRICANT & GREASE:
-Glyde Silicone Lubricating Compound
US: amzn.to/2pbExcQ
CDN: amzn.to/2n4frw9
Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant
US: amzn.to/2pWm01y
CDN: amzn.to/2mZDqg6
Versachem 26080 Synthetic Caliper Grease
US: amzn.to/2pblnnu
CDN: amzn.to/2ntF1uO
CRC Freeze-Off Super Penetrant
US: amzn.to/2rS2jKq
CDN: amzn.to/2lpHkyq
CRC Brakleen Brake Parts Cleaner
US: amzn.to/2Hu9s8T
CDN: amzn.to/2mX81Lq
WORK LIGHTS
8000 LM Cordless Rechargeable Work Light
US: amzn.to/3E24UH9
CDN: amzn.to/3sZXJJ9
Portable Handheld LED Work Light - Rechargeable
US: amzn.to/3NC9ijl
CDN: amzn.to/3sX8Dzi
** SHOP SUPPLIES
Safety Glasses
US: amzn.to/33m2RsQ
CDN: amzn.to/3WuDcd7
Nitrile Gloves 8 mil Large (Box of 100)
US: amzn.to/2Gofvg7
CDN: amzn.to/3DAkOqQ
Blue Shop Towels
US: amzn.to/3sXuZ3F
CDN: amzn.to/3Unqgny
Orange Pumice Hand Cleaner
US: amzn.to/3U7igHG
CDN: amzn.to/3T4HXHE
=======
CLICK HERE TO SEE COMPRESSOR TO USE WITH THIS BRAKE BLEEDER
• What Compressor To Use...
=======
Shop Dial2Fast Store For List Of Tools & Parts
US: www.amazon.com...
CDN: www.amazon.ca/...
=======
Support Dial2Fast on Paypal
www.paypal.me/...
Support Dial2Fast on Patreon
/ dial2fast
Dial2Fast website
www.dial2fast.com
Like us on Facebook
/ dial2fastofficial
Shop Amazon
US: amzn.to/2LqTtuk
CDN: amzn.to/2L5QASt
Join Amazon Prime
US: amzn.to/31i05mP
CDN: amzn.to/3kG0D0R
Try Amazon Prime 30-Day Free Trial:
US: amzn.to/2S3GjHI
CDN: amzn.to/3kG0D0R
========
As an Amazon Associate, I earn commissions from qualifying purchases with the links provided here.
I bought this same kit after watching this video. Best $30 I've ever spent. Works great. Amazing how much better the brakes feel after flushing them. From wheels up to wheels back down, I was done in 1 hr.
+Tobias G. Thanks for sharing your experience!!
dial2fast No problem
Tobias G.
how much air does this thing use? Would a 3 gallon tank hold up alright, or would you need a larger compressor?
Sorry I have a 6 gallon tank- do you think that would be okay?
You shouldn't need to empty the old fluid from the reservoir as when you start bleeding all the old fluid will be sucked through ending up in the bottle container. the new fluid will then be sucked through becoming cleaner as you're bleeding...
great video, really informative, fully explained in great detail. many thanks 😉👍
Have to like a guy who puts drilled rotors on the minivan, nice!
is that racing/soccer dad feeling. I have it in me too. LOL
Lmao
yeah, cause being stupid and stupid makes it cool, F'n morons,
Haha this video got a thumbs up purely b/c of them rotors!
With today's current pads drilled rotors are obsolete, in fact they are detrimental to the rotor. If he wanted the look dimpled would have been better. I can almost understand the slotted, but still over rated with new tech in brake pads.
FYI, you can use the bleeder kit to vacuum out the fluid in the reservoir also. That way you can clean it out with some brake cleaner and get all the gunk that settles inside the reservoir. Vacuum out the gunk and brake cleaner then start your bleeding sequence.
Using brake cleaner in a plastic reservoir?? I don’t think that’s a good idea. Wouldn’t it corrode the plastic?
After fifty years of bleeding brakes by many methods, I wish I would have had this tool years ago. Just tried it on a difficult
old Toyota Landcruiser job that included a new master cylinder. Really dirty lines and cylinders. Lots of air to deal with. The HF air vacuum bleeder made an otherwise pain in the ass procedure really fast and pleasant. Now I can do my own brake flushes on my other cars--and save the $120 charged by shops.
just ordered a kit like this for myself, I'm tired of the old methods and this seems to work pretty dang good. Fingers crossed it'll solve my spongy brakes.
Nice video. One hint though. If you point the hose upward from the bleeder it's easier to see when the air bubbles are gone and just clear fluid is running out. You can also hold one finger on the back of the rubber fitting to ensure a good seal. That's one nice thing about this kit with the one handed trigger operation. Others have a lever and it take two hands to turn it on and off.
I continuously have air coming out, what am I doing wrong? PSI set at 100.
tomorrow bleeding my 74 VW beetle, I just was not sure how to use this machine, thank you! It is so much faster than by having another person pump the brake pedal.
You could just use the vacuum bleeder to suck out the old fluid. Faster and easier. I really like my vacuum bleeder (same one as you). Makes a laborious and dirty job so much cleaner, easier, faster. Best new tool I've gotten in years.
Seems about the same effort.
@@scrappy93 Less mess and easier to use than a pressure bleeder. Bleed quickly and easily by yourself including stubborn systems. Use it for liquid vacuuming also (like if you over fill your crankcase).
Finally someone is bleeding their brakes instead of just talking about. Watched for previous videos.
No reason to use a syringe to remove old brake fluid from master cylinder just use the vacuum pump hose to remove it. Works better and much faster.
He literally says you can do that in the video 🙄
@@joshgutierrez7380 Not really. Plus, that whole system is worthless junk. The working system would be the air powered units used by mechanics and me being the Branick Industries Brake Bleeder . It forces fluid into the brake master cylinder flushing air from the system, and making bleeding brakes on all 4 wheels easy.
@@ronpowers9345 that’s irrelevant from MY point. I said that he stated you can do it in the video. I didn’t ask for your unwanted opinion thank you.
@@joshgutierrez7380 I was commenting on what was said in the video which I have a right to do. Get a life.
@@ronpowers9345 I never said you didn’t have a right hon. And ew. Find a better comeback than that cuz that was a little cringy 😬
The HF bleeder is good brake fluid bleeder. I think mine is 5 years old, no cracked parts or anything. The rubber end that fits to the bleeder screw is still in perfect condition as is the fluid line. Used it again his morning and it gave me a perfect fluid flush. The only thing I dislike is how it consumes lots of your compressor air, so it will keep the motor running if it’s a small 12 gallon compressor.
I bought one of these break bleeders and it works great. Makes a tedious job a breeze and no help needed. Especially helpful for bleeding ABS pump.
Brake*
The reason your bleeding sequence is reversed is probably because you have an ABS unit located in the rear driver's side of the vehicle. If that's the case, your furthest point would actually be front passenger.
I bought same bleeder kit at harbor freight, I use it every pad replacement. I hook it up as I'm compressing each caliper so get all that nasty stuff out. I drink reservoir as far down as I can before I start too and then top off. I keep refilling fluid as I go to each caliper. I figure I'm going to be replacing a good portion of it that way each time I do brakes. Why not it's cheap. Anyway this thing is Handy and it's paid for itself over and over. I've used it to do my diff fluid clutch too, even though bot says brake fluid only on bottle.
I have used this tool and discovered that it works just fine at only 40 psi. I've used it on a new brake line itself to clear them of debris, which I have found when I remove the rubber piece! Pieces of a Viva towel that i used to wipe the edge of the MC. Bad idea, use a rag instead. I then attached the line to the wheel cylinder and used a speedy bleeder.
Have also used this tool on a disc/drum system at 40 psi with great results, however it may have distorted the in-line 10# residual valve's seal. The lower pressure keeps the wheel cylinder cups from buckling under too much vacuum 'pressure' and leaking air past the edges of the seal.
You can use the bleeder to vacuum the old fluid from the reservoir instead of a syringe.
Thanks Peter aka "Dial2Fast" for the great videos! I was able to replace all 4 rotors and break pads on on 2006 Honda Odyssey saving hundreds of $ thanks to you. Everything works great, got the breaks from Brakemotive and couldn't be happier. The only issue I had was with the Break bleeding kit from Harbor Freight. It worked fine for the front lines, but it just couldn't get enough pressure (yes tried the grease) for the back lines so we had to bleed the breaks the old fashioned way with a tube , a jar full of brake fluid and my brother pumping the brakes. Couldn't have done it without your videos though so thanks again!
Were you using the required pressure on your compressor? They require a 20+ gallon tank but between 7 to 19 gallon tanks they say is doable. But 1 to 6 gallon tanks aren't recommended. I don't know what you did but the pressure cant be less than 90 and no more than 120.
I'm getting ready to bleed the brakes on my 73 Dodge Power Wagon and was thinking of purchasing this bleeder kit. Very informative video. Thanks much
Great Video, like all the rest. You taught me how to do my first timing belt....now I'm on my 3rd rebuild! This video helped me figure out why it woudn't start.....fuel lines were backward. Thanks for all the help over the years.
+Doug Hoffman How it can help you in fuel line?
@@coxman8781 Never mind he got 9 thumbs up lol lol
Thanks for posting the write ups on HF say good things about this. I did not know you needed a compressor however I like that makes it even easier.
Excellent tutorial. I have one of these and will change my brake fluid tomorrow!
Does this work on ABS systems as well? Or is there any other special procedure to actuate the ABS and evacuate any fluid in the ABS?
Correct me if Im wrong but you should squeeze the trigger first before you open the bleeder and close the bleeder first before you let go of the trigger. This way you always have pressure otherwise you're allowing air in the line.
+Gerard Fabian Alvarez He is closing the bleeder before releasing the vacuum. But for the opening, he is bleeding any little bit of air that could get in from the start during the bleeding vacuum process.
+Gerard Fabian Alvarez good tip. nice to be extra carful.
Gerard Fabian Alvarez true
WHAT IF HE GOT THAT POOR CAR PREGNANT??
No. Crack loose bleeder screw, put your small narrow wrench on screw, attach hose, pull trigger to draw fluid. Once clear flow is observed, tighten screw, remove hose.
Thanks. just picked this up today. Don't forget to use a line-wrench for the brake bleeder screw, not a box wrench.
Sparta
you can use a socket to break loose the bleeder screw first and then use a regular open end wrench if you don't have flare nut wrenches. For hydraulic lines the flare nut wrenches would be necessary.
@@dtrrtd774 Just use the box end of a normal wrench. Put wrench on bleed screw, then attach the hose. Been doing it that way for 20 years.
🤦♂️
Thank you for the video. I followed your processes so that air will no back fill into the line.
hi, it's been 8 yrs for this video but thanks a lot 😊👍
Excellent demonstration, all critical points covered.
Why not use your tool to remove old fluid in your brake reservoir?
Mine leaked like crazy. I can't tell air bubbles bled from the brakes from those that leak past the tool's hoses. Thank you for your time and this video!
If you open a brake bleeder too much, air will be sucked in around the bleeder threads and into the tools hose and make it look like you still have air in the brake line. Either just crack the bleeder, or maybe some heavy grease to the outer bleeder threads.
@@twinturbo1k They often leak with vacuum method even if you use grease and even if you just open a crack.
I have had this kit for a year, still in the box. After watching this I think next oil change I will try it out
Haha! Same here but will do this tomorrow.
could have used the pneumatic bleeder to drain master cylinder, the syringe is the mixmizer used for mixing 2 stroke oil with gas, ratios are right on syringe. but obviously has many uses, i've used a turkey baster, good video
***** Thank you!!
Better off obtaining a fluid extractor. Turkey baster is somewhat messy and you do not want to get brake fluid on painted surfaces.
I like to use a Flair wrench on automotive brake nuts...
You better cover that fender with fender cover that will be safe for the paint job cause it will eat paint very quickly to the metal. Great job keep up the good work....
Great advice using grease to get a good seal.
when bleeding with a compressor hose does it ever stay solid fluid in the bleeder hose to let you know there is no more air coming out of the lines? it appears not
He was using Sil-Glyde compound made by NAPA to seal around the bleeder valve
I use a thicker synthetic silicone-based paste I use for my calipers, it does let ANY bubbles in and it seemes to work greay to coat the rubber suction nubs as well
what brand did you use, thanks! I had trouble with those annoying bubbles that even teflon tape and some petroleum based brake grease (only on threads) didn't seem to eliminate.
I AM GOING TO BUY ONE NEXT WEEK FOR MY OLD VAN ...THANKS 4 THE VIDEO
Wow
Definitely grabbing this!! Thanks for the great tutorial
I wonder if I could use this through my dipstick to drain my transmission fluid
Gotta love vented slotted rotors on a mini van. Thanks for the vid.
Can I used this so I can avoid bench bleeding my brakes?
This will definitely be my next HF purchase. I originally purchased the mityvac manual vacuum pump from HF. A few weeks ago, I did full brake system flushes on four vehicles. My hands definitely got a good work out from that experience! Although it did work just fine......
The suction gadget will suck the mucky fluid
out of the M/C reservoir very nicely :o)
And do a good job at getting the muck
out of the bottom of the reservoir.
Theres no need to pull the old fluid out before bleeding the system. Just flush the old crap through. Waste of time and usually ends up making somewhat of a mess trying to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir. Flush it on through till the fluid runs clear showing that the NEW fluid has worked its way through the sytem pushing the old fluid out infront of it. :)
So he starts flushing the old fluid from the nipple of each wheel, and he adds the new fluid as the levels drop ?
@@amineabderrahmane1707 Exactly!!! There's 100% no reason to mess around going through the trouble of removing the old fluid 1st. Start bleeding and as the "old" fluid in the reservoir gets low, not empty, add new fluid. And continue the process until you've got nice clean fluid coming from each brake bleeder.
Great video, I've been looking for a tool like this.
I love this kit!
Hi, how much pressure you got in compresor
You could still use the fill bottle on the master cylinder. As long as, the nozzle is just below the fluid max line, it will not overfill the master cylinder. Just don't use the adapter.
Big nice brakes and calipers on that car-thanks for the video
nice sir
Thank's for this great video, 👍👍👍 i have a brake bleeder that is very like this one that you have, and now that i'm understand how it works i'm really looking forward to bleeding the brakes on my Polaris ATV. 🙂
Didn't it come with instructions? Just asking
@@Roller76 late reply but I'm pretty sure they're Chinese instructions
awesome video. thank you so much1
Do you tighten the bleeder valve while you're still vacuuming?
Open -> Vaccum -> Tighten -> Release trigger?
Vacuum -- Open - Tighten - Release vacuum
That makes it fast. Great
Man I thought you needed a vac for those. The only reason I got the cheap one man frome amazon for 6 bucks. I have a compressor. I'm going to get one of these.
Nice. Going to go get one
Thanks! Excellent... as usual
Luv the video! those rotors man! is Dad racing the mini van? Lol! just kidding man I would do the same thing on putting a nice rotor on a minivan that the wife and the kids ride on, keeping it reliable and extra safe. two thumbs up man, I'll be getting that bleeder kit very soon..
I dont understand how a compresor extract brake fluid? No entiendo como un compresor que suministra presion ayuda a extraer el liquido de frenos?
what is the work logic that compressor will push air into the bleed bottle, but how it does suction the brake fluid from the fluid line? and does it bleed air in the ABS module?
Good video I'm going to be buying one
Si you keep the reservoir open or close?
Could you just have used the syringe with the clear tubing attached to the bleeder valve, instead of the compressed-air & bleeder bottle set-up? You'd attach the syringe-with-tubing to the bleeder valve, open the bleeder valve, then pull back on the syringe to suction out the brake fluid; close the bleeder valve before detaching the clear tubing/syringe. It appears that the pneumatic bleeder is basically doing the same thing by suctioning out the brake fluid with negative pressure created by the compressed air passing through the catch bottle. Also, since you're not using the inverted fill-bottle at the master cylinder reservoir, there's the risk of drawing out too much fluid with the compressed-air suction; thus, "emptying" out the master cylinder reservoir and potentially causing damage to the master cylinder. Just a thought to simplify the procedure. Any thoughts?
A syringe will do the same thing but imagine how long that would take if you're going to do a complete flush
You did the job right. to bad the adapter did not fit, but most will.
find different bottle that fits the lid valve to put fresh brake fluid in.
Very good video and product, thank you man.
Thanks for your comment!
I could be wrong but I believe that DOT 4 is used on Honda Vehicles. Also wouldn't you bleed brakes starting at the furthest distance from the master cylinder?
+Brian Poynton DOT4 is not specific to car manufacturer. DOT4 has a higher boiling point than DOT3. You should use whats recommended in your user manual. As to bleeding from the furthest out first, that should be the case for most cars, but it depends what the service manual recommends. My 08 Odyssey Honda service manual say to bleed the front driver first.
I used to think that as well and if you are removing air from the system then yes. However for doing brake fluid flush/replacement I started using this procedure and if you think about it it makes perfect sense. I remove most of the old fluid from master cylinder with a turkey baster then refill with new fluid. Then I bleed the wheel closest to the master cylinder first until fluid comes out clean. Then bleed the farthest from the master cylinder which is usually the rear passenger wheel. Then the drivers rear wheel and last the passenger front wheel. The reason for bleeding their closets wheel first is that all the old fluid is flushed out of the master cylinder and when you bleed the furthest wheel it's clean fluid going thru the system instead of old. I learned this from Eric the car guy channel.
it all depends on where the ABS and fluid container are. Some cars have the ABS in the rear which would mean you need to start with the front wheels and work back
I do not think this matters all that much .. SAAB says to start with the bleeder closest to the reservoir .. as does Mity Mite .. why , I do not know .
It depends where your abs module is
How much constant pressure does the bleeder require when extracting the fluid; 50psi, 80psi, 100+ psi???
Amazon page above for this product says "90-120 psi."
I use a pancake compressor 120 psi and it works great.
117 psi my manual states
Drilled & Slotted rotors on the Honda Odyssey huh?
I hope it's at least V6 😁
Looks good. The fluid in the piston stays? I’d like to get rid of all the old fluid.
Worked great for me.
Very good to hear!
Thank you,
I think they recommend you start with the front because your ABS system must be in the rear.
I just got mine from aliexpress. No idea why I thought I can use it manually without a compressor.
So can it be used without a compressor ?
Nice video. Do you need to close the master cylinder cap after each fill before starting the bleed with the kit?
You don't need to put the cap on.
Amazon looks like they have the same model as HF. I order one for around $16. Most of the others looked identical to the $16 one but had both US and european air fittings - so you can save a few bucks getting the correct one.
May be worth a try; Certainly better than using a Myti-Vac hand vacuum pump. It should be adequate for changing fluid, but if one is bleeding the brake system, e.g. after a master cylinder change, it's difficult with vacuum bleeding because the threads on the loosened bleeder valve always leak a little and introduce bubbles into the stream; it's hard to tell where those are coming from, the system or just those leaky threads. Pressure bleeding from the master cylinder is the best method, but more time and tooling is needed to do that.
Do you think I could use a tire inflator compressor to do this? I’m currently in an apartment complex with no where to plug the compressor in.
The correct order in which to bleed the brakes is from the farthest one from the master cylinder up to the closest one to the master cylinder. That way you ensure no old fluid is still trapped in the process. Thanks for the informal video!
dav man You are absolutely correct and that's what I've been taught. No idea why Honda service manual was written that way.
Awesome dial2fast. I didn't know you followed the Honda manual. In that case you did it properly for the Odyssey. Thanks again for the very informative video.
dav man It's most likely because of the ABS.
Furthest from the ABS NOT the Master Cylinder.
Not too bad video. Thanks
Whats the knob out front do?
What should the psi on the compressor be set at ?
Please see this follow up video ua-cam.com/video/71Ns8RyJYLE/v-deo.html
What's the recommend psi for it? I understand it's vital.
What is you just hooked it up to the bleeding valve clean it out through the lines
Thanks for sharing! Question; Do you need to pump the brakes or hold the brake pedal down at all during the process? Thanks again. 👍
This is a one person job, so no need to pump/hold the brake while vacuuming the fluid.
@@dial2fast Thanks!! 👍
The grease needs to go on the bleed-nipple threads (not the nipple itself) to stop air leakage!
Will any type of grease work, or do you need a specific kind? Couldn’t hear what he called it
@@chasedyer9819 I'd feel safer using red rubber grease.. BTW I no longer use the Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder - I find it MUCH easier to simply use a large syringe and a short length of silicon pipe to pull the fluid out! at each hub!
@@richardking6066 Thank you!
@@chasedyer9819 Later I realised that I ended up not using grease - I used teflon tape on the threads instead! No leak, and the threads can't rust and stick in future!
What pressure do you set the air compressor to.
So, how does the guild get sucked out? 🤯 I need to do this 👍🏽
Can I bleed the ABS module after replacing my master cyl with this on a 98 Monte Carlo?
only full drum breake cars u have to start in the back right wheel, every car that has disk breakes, even if the disk in only on the front, then u still start the bleeding from the front.
As a general rule you start at the "longest brake line" from either the master cylinder or the ABS module. This is what confuses people because many foreign cars have their ABS modules located in the rear, meaning you'd start in the front where as many American cars they are located closer to the front. Not always the case but you get the point.
Key is to locate the line from the master cylinder to the ABS module then find the wheel furthest from that module. This would be the front wheels if its located in the rear or if the module is in the front, you'd start in the rear.
The basics are the same... it just varies dependent on the location of that module. ;-)
Thats why people will say that you don't have to start in the passenger rear now.
The hose should be facing up in case there is any air in the system. It will prevent it from going back in the bleeder valve.
Probably doesn't matter as long as you close the bleeder valve while it is still under vacuum and wait to open it until it is under vacuum.
You don't need to astroglide the bleeders, and the line from the bleeder should be hanging from above to see the new fluid, and prevent bubbles in the line.
scott17818 exactly what I was thinking
I was thinking that he should've put that grease on the threads of the bleeder nipple. Putting it where he put it would perhaps help to seal but also could help it to slip off. That's not where the air usually gets in anyways, when vacuum bleeding.
Thanks. Video was very clear as was your description. Only thing I miss was they type of lube you put on bleeder screw to seal out air. What's name of grease?
You can use any grease, but I used Sil Glyde amzn.to/2L9smFr
It's cool but it seems simpler just to bleed it via pumping the brakes and have the bleeder hose in a Gatorade bottle with a little fluid at the bottom so it can't pull air back in. 100% free except for the clear hose.
That method works provided you have a helper. This is super easy to do alone.
@@mountaingrownnomad4212 The one he mentioned can be done with one person. I just did it on my wifes car. Set up the bottle, open the bleeder, hop in and pump the brakes a few times, hop out check the mc and the line and repeat, until the line is clear fluid and no air bubbles.
Now its a pain in the butt and deff not as easy as the tool, but can be done.
But it's been a year, and doesn't really matter. :)
Just and FYI you always start bleeding from the FURTHEST brake caliper from the MC (mastercylinder) rear right (passenger) rear left (driver) front right and front left to finish.
Always follow what the shop manual says. It depends on if it's a "diagonally split" system and such. If the manufacturer specifies a specific order, follow it. There is probably good reason.
If your calipers are old...beware not to break off the bleeder screw
Awesome 👍
Dad always made us use box end wrench around bleeder valve to unloosen first initially from so locked position, hear how the bolt snapped loudly when you broke it loose! (box end better fit an not round off flat edges of bleeder valve. After cracked open use either end of wrench but I always used box end set first on valve then bleeder hose kept wrench in place on valve) Tim Also could you put that auto fill on a IV type bag so can form around body parts over master cylinder?
Tim Barnett he might live in an area where rust isn’t an issue which is generally why in Utah at least we do the same as you and use the box end
I agree, and preferably a 6 point box wrench. But you can try a regular wrench first and just don't apply too much torque to where you can damage anything. I'm not sure if penetrating oil is advisable here. Maybe silicone based if there is one......
Would it be a problem to put antiseize on the bleeder threads? I want to prevent seizing obviously but also think it would help seal the threads while bleeding to prevent any air from entering the vacuum
Yes you can put anti-seize on the bleeder thread.