Sorry for the confusion. I get to a point in making a video where I feel I am dragging it on too much and need to hurry and "get to the point already". I will be making a full end-to-end wrap video soon and will show that feature better. I believe I have a video or two in my M1 series showing how to use the manual ruler but I do not know which one(s) have it.
13:17 Ignore What I See??? Why does it present you with an "inaccurate" view of the item to be lasered??? If I were to shell out that much money for a laser that "promotes" it has a camera, I would expect the camera to give me something I don't have to Ignore and Can Trust??? I'm sorry, but that's pretty Wonky IMO!
On this particular machine, it is off because of the camera angles. It is really wonky however once you do it a couple of times, you get the hang of it. I see people making a TON of beautiful tumblers with this machine.
Yes please. I am really struggling on how to do a full wrap! Thank you for your awesome videos. They are a huge help. I like the way you explain step by step. Keep up the great work!
Good morning . I would like to know if you use Windows 11 to work with p2; For my part when I use Windows 11, the machine stops when I burn with the default electrical connection air pump. I tested with an old Windows 10 computer, which is very slow, the machine works very well without problems. Maybe you could help me. THANKS. Happy Holidays
That is a tough one. I am still using Windows10 on all my machines. You may have to hop over to the official Facebook group and ask. Search for the group: "xTool CO2 Laser Official Group"
I bent the tabs over using a pair of plyers. If you want to go with an alternate lens, check out my Material Settings page where it describes how to use an alternate lens with a longer focal point. Using that lens instead prevents the need to bend the tabs however you do need to manually adjust the focus after obtaining the auto-focus measurement.
Ive been seeing people do a full wrap to the bottom of the cup. Have you done that with the slope and the different diameter at the bottom? How did you account for that?
I am trying to get to a point so I can try it myself. I am just going to wing it and see what happens on a dupe. Once i get caught up with end of year orders, i am hoping the rush settles down so i can clean up my are some and give it a shot on camera.
Hi there! Thank you so much for your videos! This comment is a little off-topic, but I was hoping you could answer for me. I can't get ahold of xtools customer service. When I am trying to engrave a piece of wood that is too large to use on the slats so I have to use the open plane setting with the riser base- my camera view does not capture the whole image of the wood. It makes it so I am unable to engrave an image on the whole piece because the camera doesn't show me the whole board. Do you know of a way to adjust this? I cannot figure it out! Is there a better way to reach out to you for help (maybe email?)? I would super appreciate it! Thank you so much!
The camera has a viewing angle that is LESS than the open plane and slats flat modes due to the camera location on the laser head. There is no way around it. My suggestion is to focus on the middle of your piece and make sure your engraving is centered on that middle. To see the what i mean on on Open Plane vs Slats flat vs the Camera viewing area, check out my material settings Google Sheet. The link is found in the description of any of my videos. Once you find it, check out the tab named "Working Area" to see the different sizes you have to work with in the P2.
Thanks so much for your videos! They have helped a ton. With a full cup design to the bottom, do you feel like the camera is accurate for adjusting that or do you just go off of what you set your height measurement?
I feel the camera is accurate enough if combined with properly laying out and measuring your design. Remember, you can also perform a test engraving or even a test score on painter's tape to check your sizes.
Honestly, I only do it because xTool says to do it. Plus, my tray is usually a little dirty and not wiped down so flipping it over keeps my RA2 pro on the clean side of it. Is it REALLY needed? I doubt it
When you put the Rotary in the P2, are the tabs on the cup facing straight up or are they facing the front some? Thanks for your videos. They're very easy to understand. Waiting on your full wrap video :)
@@MonkeyWoodworks so you place the tabs straight up? 🤔 My rotary seemed to rotate my tumbler some when it was starting the design so wasn't sure if I needed to shift the tabs ?? I'm hoping the next one will line up better .
So when you stretched the image, of course the image is also stretched on the cup? Was it your intent? So. if we don't want it to be stretched, we get the image of the tumbler size. righ?
Hello Mike! Do you have the svg for the tumbler ruler? Thank you! :) I didn't see it in the description box. I did purchase the lakeshore lids though. Thank you :)
The only svg I have a link to is the Stanley Leveler. A link to it can be found in my Material Settings document. Check the description of the video for the material settings document
Thank you for the detailed video. It's been super helpful! Do you know what I can do for the bottom part to not come out distorted? My Mickey heads come out as ovals instead of circles. I have an xTool M1
Sorry, I do not know. My guess is that the image must be specifically designed for a Stanley and the heads would be pre-stretched or squished to make up for it.
@@MonkeyWoodworks Thanks for the reply! I will try with your Stanley leveling tool and see if that makes a difference. I'm really just trying things blindly because there are no videos on this made with the M1. Your two videos have been very informative and I'm learning a lot, so thank you so much!
@@MonkeyWoodworks I'm learning as I go, and that video helped me confirm things I've been guessing on, so thank you so much! The visual on how the laser works is great! This time the circles came out better but not engraved the whole way, so I'm tweaking the settings and seeing what works. There's definitely a big learning curve!
Thank you somuch for the video! You helped me ALOT!
You are very welcome!
Was that handle upside down? (Great video! Thanks for the information!!)
Hmm. I may have put it on upside down lol.
Don't complete understand the manual measurment. Can you add a pic where you measured from and to. Is it from the cup to the laser point?
Sorry for the confusion. I get to a point in making a video where I feel I am dragging it on too much and need to hurry and "get to the point already". I will be making a full end-to-end wrap video soon and will show that feature better. I believe I have a video or two in my M1 series showing how to use the manual ruler but I do not know which one(s) have it.
13:17 Ignore What I See??? Why does it present you with an "inaccurate" view of the item to be lasered??? If I were to shell out that much money for a laser that "promotes" it has a camera, I would expect the camera to give me something I don't have to Ignore and Can Trust??? I'm sorry, but that's pretty Wonky IMO!
On this particular machine, it is off because of the camera angles. It is really wonky however once you do it a couple of times, you get the hang of it. I see people making a TON of beautiful tumblers with this machine.
Thank you for this video. This was very helpful and informative. You really took the mystery out of the process.👍🏻
You are so welcome!
Can you do a video on a full wrap like you mentioned at the end please, thank you.
Yes! I am going to be working on that soon.
Yes please. I am really struggling on how to do a full wrap! Thank you for your awesome videos. They are a huge help. I like the way you explain step by step. Keep up the great work!
Good morning . I would like to know if you use Windows 11 to work with p2; For my part when I use Windows 11, the machine stops when I burn with the default electrical connection air pump. I tested with an old Windows 10 computer, which is very slow, the machine works very well without problems. Maybe you could help me. THANKS. Happy Holidays
That is a tough one. I am still using Windows10 on all my machines. You may have to hop over to the official Facebook group and ask. Search for the group: "xTool CO2 Laser Official Group"
How do you keep the laser from hitting the tabs?
I bent the tabs over using a pair of plyers. If you want to go with an alternate lens, check out my Material Settings page where it describes how to use an alternate lens with a longer focal point. Using that lens instead prevents the need to bend the tabs however you do need to manually adjust the focus after obtaining the auto-focus measurement.
Ive been seeing people do a full wrap to the bottom of the cup. Have you done that with the slope and the different diameter at the bottom? How did you account for that?
I am trying to get to a point so I can try it myself. I am just going to wing it and see what happens on a dupe. Once i get caught up with end of year orders, i am hoping the rush settles down so i can clean up my are some and give it a shot on camera.
Yes I’m interested to see this as well because I have also seen this
@@MonkeyWoodworks very interested in a tutorial for this! :)
Hi there! Thank you so much for your videos! This comment is a little off-topic, but I was hoping you could answer for me. I can't get ahold of xtools customer service. When I am trying to engrave a piece of wood that is too large to use on the slats so I have to use the open plane setting with the riser base- my camera view does not capture the whole image of the wood. It makes it so I am unable to engrave an image on the whole piece because the camera doesn't show me the whole board. Do you know of a way to adjust this? I cannot figure it out! Is there a better way to reach out to you for help (maybe email?)? I would super appreciate it! Thank you so much!
The camera has a viewing angle that is LESS than the open plane and slats flat modes due to the camera location on the laser head. There is no way around it. My suggestion is to focus on the middle of your piece and make sure your engraving is centered on that middle. To see the what i mean on on Open Plane vs Slats flat vs the Camera viewing area, check out my material settings Google Sheet. The link is found in the description of any of my videos. Once you find it, check out the tab named "Working Area" to see the different sizes you have to work with in the P2.
Thanks so much for your videos! They have helped a ton. With a full cup design to the bottom, do you feel like the camera is accurate for adjusting that or do you just go off of what you set your height measurement?
I feel the camera is accurate enough if combined with properly laying out and measuring your design. Remember, you can also perform a test engraving or even a test score on painter's tape to check your sizes.
how can you rotate It by hand? every time I try to rotate it it doesn't, am I missing something?
You can rotate it with it powered off. I just shut it off to rotate it and set it up before starting.
When did you get the Stanley look-a-like mugs?
We got.ours from a local store called Five Below
Great video Michael. I'm going to try this on my M1.
Thanks! Let me know how it turns out.
did it work?
Can you do that photo view on the M1? 🤔
Sorry, I don't fully understand your request.
You think I could use the RA to engrave on a bracelet a wooden one
Oh you definitely can do that. Funny thing is, I don't think i have seen that done before.
Why do you flip the tray over? Great video by the way
Honestly, I only do it because xTool says to do it. Plus, my tray is usually a little dirty and not wiped down so flipping it over keeps my RA2 pro on the clean side of it. Is it REALLY needed? I doubt it
@@MonkeyWoodworks Thank you! I was a bit confused😊
Have you done a full wrap yet?
No, life keeps getting in the way unfortunately haha. Hoping to knock it out soon because my wife is waiting on her cup!
@@MonkeyWoodworks ok. thanks
When you put the Rotary in the P2, are the tabs on the cup facing straight up or are they facing the front some? Thanks for your videos. They're very easy to understand. Waiting on your full wrap video :)
I like to start/end at the tabs so in case the wrap does not quite line up, the mistake will be at the handle and more hidden.
@@MonkeyWoodworks so you place the tabs straight up? 🤔 My rotary seemed to rotate my tumbler some when it was starting the design so wasn't sure if I needed to shift the tabs ?? I'm hoping the next one will line up better .
Great video! My OCD would never allow me to stretch the image like that, but I am sure whoever received it loved it!
Haha! It was a test tumbler to go through the process. I made another full height without distortion. It was much better.
Great Job! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
So when you stretched the image, of course the image is also stretched on the cup? Was it your intent? So. if we don't want it to be stretched, we get the image of the tumbler size. righ?
Correct. The image did distort because it was designed for a full height engraving, but I only wanted to engrave the top portion.
Thanks a lot
Happy to help
Hello Mike! Do you have the svg for the tumbler ruler? Thank you! :) I didn't see it in the description box. I did purchase the lakeshore lids though. Thank you :)
The only svg I have a link to is the Stanley Leveler. A link to it can be found in my Material Settings document. Check the description of the video for the material settings document
@@MonkeyWoodworksThank you!! ❤
You are welcome
Thank you for the detailed video. It's been super helpful! Do you know what I can do for the bottom part to not come out distorted? My Mickey heads come out as ovals instead of circles. I have an xTool M1
Sorry, I do not know. My guess is that the image must be specifically designed for a Stanley and the heads would be pre-stretched or squished to make up for it.
@@MonkeyWoodworks Thanks for the reply! I will try with your Stanley leveling tool and see if that makes a difference. I'm really just trying things blindly because there are no videos on this made with the M1. Your two videos have been very informative and I'm learning a lot, so thank you so much!
On the M1, framing is your friend. Maybe this video will help (and the previous one)
ua-cam.com/video/P58FykErzzM/v-deo.html
@@MonkeyWoodworks I'm learning as I go, and that video helped me confirm things I've been guessing on, so thank you so much! The visual on how the laser works is great! This time the circles came out better but not engraved the whole way, so I'm tweaking the settings and seeing what works. There's definitely a big learning curve!
Good luck!