As usual, enjoyed this and the previous video. Thank you!! Quick question... Do you have to account for the small, tapered bottom end when dealing with the design wrap (overlapping)? Waiting on some 40oz tumblers to arrive but have been working on designs. I take several perimeter measurements and end up with an upside-down cone to contain the design. The design you engraved was a square. Did it overlap at the very bottom? Thank you for your time!!
A rectangular pattern works on a stanley. There is no adjustment needed to fit it. The only thing you need to make sure is that your pattern is made to fit the size of tumbler your engraving. I get mine from etsy and make sure it has the right size in the description.
Maybe you can clear this up for me. The green line is on the far side of the tumbler. I seen other videos say don’t move to the center of the tumbler because of the camera. One video has the plastic center marker that goes on the rotary to move the line. What is the best way to get a good full wrap?
I just go off what I learned from the developers during the testing of the P2: 1. Place tumbler in P2 so that the laser dot is at the highest point of the tumbler. 2. Perform an auto-measure in XCS 3. Position the engraving project just to the right of the line in XCS verifying the vertical placement. 4. Verify your engraving parameters (speed, power, lines per cm, etc) 5. Start your engraving. They told me: "DO NOT MOVE the line in the software. The line will automatically be placed at the highest point of the tumber during the auto-measure process." So since then, I have always done it that way and have not had any issues aside from hitting the tumbler tabs now and then due to dumb mistakes on my part.
Expand the description of this video. Scroll down to my Material Settings document. Inside that document, you will find lots of helpful info along with a link to my leveling tool SVG.
No but I have it for free if that is ok? You can find a link to it inside my Personal Material Settings file. You can find a link to it in the description of this video.
Why do my tumblers come out pale at the bottom thinner part in comparison to my top half. I used your guides and I have your leveller. I’ve wasted like 10 mugs as it’s just pale and in some of the mugs it doesn’t engrave at all. I’ve cleaned my lens and camera. It’s a new xtool so technically there shouldn’t be any issues
If you are sure the ends are level and you have the right focus point, you may want to increase the power some. Also, If you have a bad tumbler, hang onto it for testing. You can engrave a long skinny rectangle from top to bottom MANY times around the tumbler playing with settings. Not all tumblers are the same. Some have really thick paint so it takes a bit more power to cook through the paint cleanly.
Expand the description of this video. Scroll down and find the link to my Material Settings document. Inside that document, you will find my air assist settings used for engraving and a lot more.
Can you please confirm if the automeasure is to the actual top of tab itself or the area between the tab and where the edge where the tapered section starts. I'm a bit confused, if I automeasure to the top of the tab wouldn't the focus be too far off for the other areas of the tumbler ?
I measure to the top of the bent over tabs. You can make it a little easier to get that measurement by putting a large piece of painters tape from tab to tab and measure to the middle of that tape. Using this method, i have not noticed an issue with the paint not burning all the way through. Now, there is a new method people are using by replacing the stock lens with a longer focal distance lens. This does require manual adjustments after auto measuring to account for the longer focal distance but it also allows puts the laser further away from the tumbler so you do not have to bend the tabs over. I have purchased a 3rd party lens but not tried it yet. Even with the 3rd party lens, you still have the issue with focusing on one area that is closer to the laser and hoping the tapered area also burns cleanly.
Check out any of my M1 videos. Look in the description of that video and find the link to my Material Settings Document. There you will find the settings I use for my 10watt M1.
Not that I know of. You can see in the video that i have the ends level and I auto-measured at the highest point (the tabs). The method just seems to work.
@MonkeyWoodworks do you sell your file for the piece that holds the leveler? The video at approx 9:40 the file will be linked below but I can't find it. Thank you
Yes it will. The settings will be a bit different but the process is similar. The advantage of the M1 is you can run a frame of your project to make sure it all works.
Thank you for your support! Expand this video's description, and you will find a link to my Material Settings Google document. Inside that document, you will find a link to the file.
@alidadebruyn36 the level concept is the same for the m1. Check the level of the gantry and make the tumbler match. The little tool I use makes it easy to do.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Much appreciated! I saw the first video and had my fingers crossed for this one.
You're very welcome!
Ganz lieben Dank für das teilen der Datei. Diese Informationen sind sehr hilfreich. Toller Kanal. Schöne Grüße aus Deutschland
Thank you for your kind words. You are welcome.
Thanks, Just getting started with my P2. Very easy to follow your instructions! And, I appreciate the files !
You are welcome! Glad it was useful.
Great as always, Mike!
Thank you so much!
As usual, enjoyed this and the previous video. Thank you!! Quick question... Do you have to account for the small, tapered bottom end when dealing with the design wrap (overlapping)? Waiting on some 40oz tumblers to arrive but have been working on designs. I take several perimeter measurements and end up with an upside-down cone to contain the design. The design you engraved was a square. Did it overlap at the very bottom? Thank you for your time!!
A rectangular pattern works on a stanley. There is no adjustment needed to fit it. The only thing you need to make sure is that your pattern is made to fit the size of tumbler your engraving. I get mine from etsy and make sure it has the right size in the description.
@@MonkeyWoodworks@MonkeyWoodworks So, using the largest perimeter and the total length still makes the engraving work ok on the tapered/smaller area?
Maybe you can clear this up for me. The green line is on the far side of the tumbler. I seen other videos say don’t move to the center of the tumbler because of the camera. One video has the plastic center marker that goes on the rotary to move the line.
What is the best way to get a good full wrap?
I just go off what I learned from the developers during the testing of the P2:
1. Place tumbler in P2 so that the laser dot is at the highest point of the tumbler.
2. Perform an auto-measure in XCS
3. Position the engraving project just to the right of the line in XCS verifying the vertical placement.
4. Verify your engraving parameters (speed, power, lines per cm, etc)
5. Start your engraving.
They told me: "DO NOT MOVE the line in the software. The line will automatically be placed at the highest point of the tumber during the auto-measure process." So since then, I have always done it that way and have not had any issues aside from hitting the tumbler tabs now and then due to dumb mistakes on my part.
I can’t find the SVG file for your leveling tool! Could you please tell me how to get that! Looks amazing!!!
Expand the description of this video. Scroll down to my Material Settings document. Inside that document, you will find lots of helpful info along with a link to my leveling tool SVG.
Do you have a cut file for your leveler to sell?
No but I have it for free if that is ok? You can find a link to it inside my Personal Material Settings file. You can find a link to it in the description of this video.
Why do my tumblers come out pale at the bottom thinner part in comparison to my top half. I used your guides and I have your leveller. I’ve wasted like 10 mugs as it’s just pale and in some of the mugs it doesn’t engrave at all. I’ve cleaned my lens and camera. It’s a new xtool so technically there shouldn’t be any issues
If you are sure the ends are level and you have the right focus point, you may want to increase the power some. Also, If you have a bad tumbler, hang onto it for testing. You can engrave a long skinny rectangle from top to bottom MANY times around the tumbler playing with settings. Not all tumblers are the same. Some have really thick paint so it takes a bit more power to cook through the paint cleanly.
What engrave air assist percentage do you use
Expand the description of this video. Scroll down and find the link to my Material Settings document. Inside that document, you will find my air assist settings used for engraving and a lot more.
Can you please confirm if the automeasure is to the actual top of tab itself or the area between the tab and where the edge where the tapered section starts. I'm a bit confused, if I automeasure to the top of the tab wouldn't the focus be too far off for the other areas of the tumbler ?
I measure to the top of the bent over tabs. You can make it a little easier to get that measurement by putting a large piece of painters tape from tab to tab and measure to the middle of that tape. Using this method, i have not noticed an issue with the paint not burning all the way through. Now, there is a new method people are using by replacing the stock lens with a longer focal distance lens. This does require manual adjustments after auto measuring to account for the longer focal distance but it also allows puts the laser further away from the tumbler so you do not have to bend the tabs over. I have purchased a 3rd party lens but not tried it yet. Even with the 3rd party lens, you still have the issue with focusing on one area that is closer to the laser and hoping the tapered area also burns cleanly.
@MonkeyWoodworks where can I get the lens with the longer focal length? What's the size/name of it?
How long would a wrap like this take?
A full wrap takes a little over an hour.
Help, what kind of settings would you use on a M1?
Check out any of my M1 videos. Look in the description of that video and find the link to my Material Settings Document. There you will find the settings I use for my 10watt M1.
Thanks
So even with the technical change in distance at the bottom end of the tumbler, no adjustment is needed?
Not that I know of. You can see in the video that i have the ends level and I auto-measured at the highest point (the tabs). The method just seems to work.
Yah! I'd think the focal plain of the laser would produce a poor burn, possibly not removing the powder coat. It's about 10mm distance!
@MonkeyWoodworks do you sell your file for the piece that holds the leveler? The video at approx 9:40 the file will be linked below but I can't find it. Thank you
The file is free. See the video description for the link to my materials settings document. The link can be found in that document.
@@MonkeyWoodworks thank you
You are welcome
Would this work on the M1 also?
Yes it will. The settings will be a bit different but the process is similar. The advantage of the M1 is you can run a frame of your project to make sure it all works.
Hi, great couple of tumbler vids, I subscribed. Can you share the SVG of your leveling tool?
Thank you for your support!
Expand this video's description, and you will find a link to my Material Settings Google document.
Inside that document, you will find a link to the file.
@@MonkeyWoodworks Thank you so much!
@@llmcclymonds Absolutely
I just cannot get my yeti to do a full wrap. The top comes out perfect but the bottom is pale
Are you leveling the two ends, making sure they are level to the angle of the gantry, not just level to the bubble?
@ no I level the top, if I level the bottom thinner piece, the top is then not level
In the video @1:44 and @2:42 it shows how to level it from tip to tip that is the key to getting the most even level across the tumbler on the P2.
@ but I’m working with the M1
@alidadebruyn36 the level concept is the same for the m1. Check the level of the gantry and make the tumbler match. The little tool I use makes it easy to do.