Hi Nikodem, I need your help. at university I have used the NEMA 17 stepper motor 3D model from your fusion 360 CNC drawing. I need to credit the author for my references. Did you design it or did you get the model somewhere else?
Seriously, that is so great to see you build a better CNC using your current CNC. That really seems to show the power of these tools.... and your ingenuity.
hello, what was your feedrate, rpm, and depth of cut when you made the piece on the dremel cnc? it looks very nice. also what type of endmill did you use?
I absolutely love what youre doing but you absolutely HAVE to include the fancy bearings as they are what support the ballscrew's axial load as it drives the gantry. They are a very important part of the drive screw as it restrains its axial motion with a thrust bearing and lock nut. If you don't it will honestly render the machine inoperable for precision work. Furthermore it will put that axial load on the motor's bearings and make them fail prematurely.
You're doing some awesome stuff man! Love that you're making everything open source & making great tutorials and documentation for everything. Excited to see where you're headed :)
Im sure this in not an original comment, but could you post a price breakdown of the dremel cnc and IndyMill. I am aware you link the parts individually but a straight up cost figure would be great! Keep up the great work mann, look forward to seeing the completed machine!!!!
I used your design to build my own CNC. I did make some changes. Some of the holes in the original where undersized so I cleaned them up(i can't file straight for the life of me) so I cleaned up the tolerances for my 3d printer. I also had an issue with a bad Arduino board and gave up on my GRBL shield and designed my own to work with the Twotrees TB6600 Stepper Motor Driver and also got a ECO-WORTHY CNC Z-Axis Tool (probe plate) so make zero in the Z axis a breeze. I did have to change the Arduino out and everything worked fine so the redesigning of the board was most likely not needed.
I have been using CNCjs also - I have had the same problem. Solution - When you start CNCjs, two things start up - first is a server side that you can't see and then the interface. the interface side of the app is what froze and by pressing CTRL + R to reload that screen will fix the problem. Don't close it or reboot the PC, if the Arduino looses power, it will reset the position and you can't re-home the machine again to continue the next cut.
Hey Nik, no need to change the y-axis ballscrew coupler. The axial movement of the ballscrew should be anchored with a pre-tensioned ball bearing at the front end of the ball screw (the end opposite the motor)
Even if I am not sure if one really needs 2 NEMA 23s on the x spindle..it might give extra stability and makes it sound rude.: ) Ntl. the machine looks rocksolid and the software should be transferable. The parts- seem to be organisable, and standardish.. You made world class !! And very honest videos. I appreciate that. And all makers will! Other might not. I am convinced that the Performance of the mill will ripe out enormously with experience an with a professional state of the art mill and patient experience, logging. Especially the drill/ material selection seem to be essential and an art on its own. Without a crisis I had had not the time to look Videos on CNC machines btw. And I saw all, nearly. ; ) And now I MUST build one. Actually for an other much bigger one project.. then. Cant imagine how you doubt not going on with this project. Its the biggest modifyable freemill(some americans got lost in license wars yet..) with 2 nemas on screws.. the backleand y axis must prove in practice... as the potentially non fenced front and backload could be a keyfeature(only the lowrider design on mpcnc has simular... maybee..) anyway. theres a goooooood chance i order the parts from you... i really obey that piece of work. cheers!
If bearing block is not an option, try 3d print the end block of the motor side, with hefty design, and use real angular contact bearing for both end. This way, you can keep using the pricey oldham coupling. This machine already has nice solid frame, expensive ball screws and big stepper motors, don't let a mistake kill its potential.
Świetny kanał! Nie rozumiem w jaki sposób do tej pory umknął moim filtrom youtuba, bo z całą pewnością jest on blisko powiązany z tym co robię i czym się interesuję. Życzę powodzenia i dalszego rozwijania swoich projektów oraz samego kanału, bo jestem przekonany, że ma spory potencjał :)
Starting to look good now, we'll done. I now have all the parts from your BOM and whilst I appreciate that your design is not complete and subject to design change it would be really helpful if you could release some of the more mature steel component so we could try and locally source them. You may want to consider releasing to your patron first which may encourage people to participate and you'll start to receive a little funds for you efforts.
You are the best, this is very simple and light design. For the ball axis, perhaps you could fix the axis with ball bearings near the nema, so the force will be resisted by the bearings not the couple.
Those fancy bearings as you put it aren't fancy, they are essential for use with ballscrews to constrain the axial load from your cutting forces, without them you won't have accuracy or repeatability worth a damn but you will end up with premature bearing failure of your motor bearings, those plum/lovejoy couplers are also useless for this application, you require disk couplers rated at the correct torque loading. Save up and do it once and do it right, otherwise you'll end up spending more in the long run. Sorry if that is harsh but reality is frequently harsh, you may have noticed.
in my case (im building this with one of my friends) we will use a skr 1.3 with tmc 5160 for extra power, and marlin firmware (we like the sdcard support built into the board) (and I'm very familiar with marlin too)
you need to use the ball-screw bearing blocks they have preloaded thrust rated bearings in them this is one of the biggest reasons you can get the tight precision out of them is preloaded bearings also only use one bearing block to capture the screw and the other in just put it in a lose hole to prevent over constraint, doing this you can get 0.003 or better repeat ability out of that system.. also on your little machine get a block or delrin cut in half heat the ends tells it's really soft and pinch the shaft with it making your own delrin acme nut doing this will take more to spin the shafts but no back lash as the nut is a perfect fit to the shaft google it lots of vids on how to do this
If you cnc this part on the Dremel cnc, could it be feasible to produce all of the laser cut parts in the Dremel cnc? I think that would make for a great logical progression. 3d printer>>Dremel CNC>>Indy Mill.
@Nikodem Bartnik What are you going to use as the "brains" for this operation? Ive been in the process of making a cnc myself when I stumbled upon your videos and I think they are so cool!! Ive got almost everything figured out for mine but I don't know what to use as a controller board to hook the drivers up to. I used a all-in-one board for my 3d printer I made, but those dont really exist for cncs. I'll be excited to see your video on hooking up the electronics!! :)
Hello Nikodem will you use and introduce the new GRBL 1.1h feature, the dual motor support for gantry CNC machines? You do use 2 NEMA motors for your Y- axis it would be a improvement to have GRBL self square the gantry everytime you hit the endswitches. Cheers.
Zacznę od tego, że wielki szacun za to co robisz!! A teraz przechodząc do konkretów... Mój znajomy poprosił mnie o zrobienie dla niego CNC. Planuję zrobić Twoją wersję, tą drukowaną na drukarce, żeby ogarnąć budowę, działanie, wady itp., zanim stworzę tą właściwą, stricte pod jego oczekiwania. Niestety jednym z nich jest pole robocze, które musi być wysokie na 25-27cm. Trochę ze swoimi CNC na pewno przeżyłeś, więc może zaobserwowałeś i możesz stwierdzić czy tak wysokie pole robocze będzie bardzo problematyczne?? Czy lepiej rozwiązać to obniżonym stołem, bo nad tym też się zastanawiałem, bo maksymalnie 2cm w głąb materiału, który będzie obrabiał, będzie schodziła ta maszyna
Good afternoon. it would be cool if in the manual to the cnc there is a list of milling cutters that you used on your machine and they showed themselves well. with purchase links. I’m breaking my head so that I can take it at the beginning. because I want to cut aluminum and wood. anyway repeat your big cnc
Hello from Sweden. I just found you and your channel on UA-cam while searching for awesome cnc diy'ers. And I've got say that from the many designs I've seen, this one by FAR is the most interesting. You seem to really have a awesome machine going here. You mentioned in one of the videos that you might put up the parts (steel plates) for sale on the website. Is that a reality or? Someone surely already asked, but what did cost al together? Thank a million and keep up the excellent work👍👍👍😛😀
@@Gilbert_LUL precision granite slates! heard of them, would somthing cheaper (concrete, block of metal), or simply countertop granite work if leveled well, and not for some super high end work? Also wondering for super high speed fdm travel etc to prevent ringing
Wait... Hammerite "prosto na rdze" used directly on aluminium? Hemmerite recomends it for ferrous metals only, but I wonder if that works for you(?). Does it stick to the surface? Hope to see your vids more often, good luck ;)
he is still skeptical about the bearing blocks. It will works without them, but having them will definitely enable the machine to run with full potential.
easier to design it that way. Right here I don't have flexibility of 3D printing so some compromises have to be made. And also this one is actually better because stepper motor is actually not connected directly to the screw
Hello , very good job for this one. One question : I have the same spindle and it heats quite quickly. I tried to implement a water cooling solution but have not tested it properly yet. I came across your new designed fan in Thingiverse, is it really efficient? Thanks
@@nikodembartnik I also think you should use the couplers. If you don't the forces are passed into the bearing in the nema motors and those are not designed for axial forces and could damage them.
My professor Hello teacher, I have a dramel brand cnc from your brands, although I have a stepper motor torque of 4.7 kgm, I make the y axis current settings fully, but it stops immediately when it is a little weak, I use a 10 amp power supply, everything is ok, but there is this problem, how can we solve another nema 17 stepper current settings 0.8 0.6 I am doing it again, the same, how else can we handle it.
@have you built the indymill yet? I am halfway done
Рік тому
@@toddroles3234 yes and its not that easy to build. Low quality linear rail is worse than classic rail and more expensive... And i am strugling with the Zaxis because the 1.5Kw spindle is too heavy and there is to much friction for the linear rail
Ostatnie warstwy zostały bo był jakiś problem na osi Z (pewnie trzeba by śrubę wyczyścić). A o konturze mówiłem, nie przepadam za robieniem go w aluminium
ten duży otwór można było dużo szybciej wyfrezować - zrobić kolejny element w środku tego otworu i oszukać cama w fusion 360. Żeby robił to jak kieszeń ale jednak byłby to trochę szerszy rowek niż frez i objechać do około trochoidalną ścieżką.
Dlaczego nie frezowałeś dużej kieszeni na wylot? skoro robisz ją jako pocket, można było zejść np 0.2mm poniżej materiał i poświęcić kawałek stołu :D ew nie myślałeś o mocowaniu detali w jakimś małym imadle?
A solid coupling is not likely to work very well because the stepper shaft can easily move axially, the bearings are spring loaded to allow for a bit of movement. Flip the ballscrew around and constrain it axially at the far end with two ball bearings or thrust bearings, there is little radial load so I've not had any problems with them just clamped around an aluminium plate. imgur.com/GcmT2JM
Nigdy nie używałem, mam od 2 lat CR10 wersję 1 i działa do tej pory bardzo fajnie. Jeśli nie zależy ci na rozmiarze to polecam endera 3, a jeśli coś droższego to oczywiście oryginalna prusa i3
@@AdamMaszynotwor Nie spodziewałem się że kupisz drukarkę 3d. Ty jako mój ekspert od cnc a teraz zobaczę jak temat druku 3d ogarniasz. Ja posiadam Ender3 i jak się ją poprawi po naszych skośnych przyjaciołach to drukuje poprawnie.
Ty loziskove bloky pro kulickovy sroub bych aspon jeden dal. Vetsina krok.motoru ma vuli v ose hridele. Stavel jsem si kdysi neco hodne podobneho, mozna mensi: forum.strojirenstvi.cz/viewtopic.php?t=22813 Nakonec to dopadlo trochu jinak nez plany v prvnim prispevku :) Prave kvuli te vuli v ose jsem nakonec dal samostatne kulickove srouby a vetsi motory. Ale na dalsim (vetsim) cnc uz chci closed-loop motory a dva kulickove srouby v Y (jako mas ty). Na jednom uprostred se to krouti jak zizala (pri obrabeni kovu) :) Proc jsi ten nejvetsi otvor obrabel jako kapsu a ne jen konturou? Zbytecne moc odpadu a kurvis si nastroj. Ja takove otvory jedu konturou s 0,2mm odsazenim, pak ten stred vyndam a jedu znova na cisto. Plus to strikam lihem, kvuli mazani.
I remember this old machinist at my school say that the Lathe was the only machine that could build bigger and better versions of itself. I think we can add the CNC to the category. DremelCNC to Indy to IndyMega!
@@PaulDominguez : you are absolutely right! A lathe is one of the most empowering tools of our times. Heat is another one. Digital control of machinery is the icing on the cake! 👍
Everything is fine with the couplers! But the lead screws needs to be fixed on the other side. The lead screws must not transmit axial loads to the motors. This is bad for motors and reduces the accuracy of the machine to zero. I managed to lock the screws for on Dremel CNC project. photos.app.goo.gl/UoGbXAMY7SXBuYEx8
bonjour, je suis là pour ajouter un avis négatif malheureusement, pour commencer j'ai posté un avis sur le site pour le kit de plaques en acier découper au laser et lavis n'a pas été poster ! honnêtement pour le prix que j'ai payé ce n'est vraiment pas correct déjà j'ai remarqué que les plaque n'était pas complètement plate donc mais railles linéaire force (je le sais car quand j'ai je serrais juste la railles le wagon avancer difficilement et pas quand je le mettais de l'autre côté), il n'a pas mis les roulements (51101 size 12 26 9) dans le lien et ne l'a précisé nul par à part sur l'une de ces vidéos donc perte de temps… hello, I'm here to add a negative review unfortunately, to begin with I posted a review on the site for the laser cut steel plate kit and the review was not posted! honestly for the price I paid it's really not correct already I noticed that the plates were not completely flat so but rails linear force (I know it because when I have I just squeeze the rails the wagon moving hard and not when I put it on the other side), he did not put the bearings (51101 size 12 26 9) in the link and did not specify it anywhere except on one of these videos so waste of time...
First thing no spamming please. Your review was blocked by spam filters as it was not written in English. It is true that some of the rail supports are a bit bended that is caused by the manufacturing process (laser cutting 8mm with small holes in the middle) but that does not influence how the machine work at all. If assembled properly there should be no problem. Try to loose the screws that fix linear rail carriage to the spindle plate and fix them again, that should help.
@@nikodembartnik I have to agree with @lebonjeuxdugeek, I bought your plates (drilled and powedercoated) in November 2022, and am stopped in my assembly of the indymill because the y plates have some warp/bend to them. When I attach and tighten to the mgn12 blocks, it binds and does not slide well. If i only tighten screws on one block, slides perfect, but when i tighten on second block, binds. I filed the part of the y block where the bearing goes and have gotten it more flat and smooth, but when i tighten one, it is still a little bit off on other. I am now trying to "shim" the other part (with aluminum foil strips) where it attaches to the mgn12 block and it is better, but still not sliding smooth. if the plate is not perfectly level where it attaches to the 2 mgn12 blocks, it causes the blocks to bind on the rail. Very frustrating. I proved this by getting a new piece of 6mm aluminum plate and drilling with dremel cnc the 8 mounting holes for the mgn12 blocks on the y plate and when tightened, it slides perfect. I am going to try to file your plates more flat, but I worry i am going to have to have some new Y plates manufactured. I can show you pictures
My professor Hello teacher, I have a dramel brand cnc from your brands, although I have a stepper motor torque of 4.7 kgm, I make the y axis current settings fully, but it stops immediately when it is a little weak, I use a 10 amp power supply, everything is ok, but there is this problem, how can we solve another nema 17 stepper current settings 0.8 0.6 I am doing it again, the same, how else can we handle it.
Make sure to subscribe: ua-cam.com/users/nikodembartnik To don't miss my videos and help YT algorithm find those :)
If you want, I could machine some stepper couplers for you on my small lathe
Hi Nikodem, I need your help. at university I have used the NEMA 17 stepper motor 3D model from your fusion 360 CNC drawing. I need to credit the author for my references. Did you design it or did you get the model somewhere else?
I’m 15,284 years old. But I’ve learned sooooo much from this guy. Thanks 🙏
Seriously, that is so great to see you build a better CNC using your current CNC.
That really seems to show the power of these tools.... and your ingenuity.
hello, what was your feedrate, rpm, and depth of cut when you made the piece on the dremel cnc? it looks very nice. also what type of endmill did you use?
I absolutely love what youre doing but you absolutely HAVE to include the fancy bearings as they are what support the ballscrew's axial load as it drives the gantry. They are a very important part of the drive screw as it restrains its axial motion with a thrust bearing and lock nut. If you don't it will honestly render the machine inoperable for precision work. Furthermore it will put that axial load on the motor's bearings and make them fail prematurely.
It is a little baffling, I hope he sees your messages. It would be a pretty easy fix too.
I noticed that on the DremelCNC already. Huge design flaw in my opinion.
It doesn't matter Nikodem, the important thing is how beautiful it is stays. Regards from Spain
You're doing some awesome stuff man! Love that you're making everything open source & making great tutorials and documentation for everything. Excited to see where you're headed :)
Im sure this in not an original comment, but could you post a price breakdown of the dremel cnc and IndyMill. I am aware you link the parts individually but a straight up cost figure would be great!
Keep up the great work mann, look forward to seeing the completed machine!!!!
I used your design to build my own CNC. I did make some changes. Some of the holes in the original where undersized so I cleaned them up(i can't file straight for the life of me) so I cleaned up the tolerances for my 3d printer. I also had an issue with a bad Arduino board and gave up on my GRBL shield and designed my own to work with the Twotrees TB6600 Stepper Motor Driver and also got a ECO-WORTHY CNC Z-Axis Tool (probe plate) so make zero in the Z axis a breeze. I did have to change the Arduino out and everything worked fine so the redesigning of the board was most likely not needed.
I have been using CNCjs also - I have had the same problem. Solution - When you start CNCjs, two things start up - first is a server side that you can't see and then the interface. the interface side of the app is what froze and by pressing CTRL + R to reload that screen will fix the problem. Don't close it or reboot the PC, if the Arduino looses power, it will reset the position and you can't re-home the machine again to continue the next cut.
What is your feedrate and doc?
Hey Nik, no need to change the y-axis ballscrew coupler. The axial movement of the ballscrew should be anchored with a pre-tensioned ball bearing at the front end of the ball screw (the end opposite the motor)
Even if I am not sure if one really needs 2 NEMA 23s on the x spindle..it might give extra stability and makes it sound rude.: )
Ntl. the machine looks rocksolid and the software should be transferable. The parts- seem to be organisable, and standardish..
You made world class !! And very honest videos. I appreciate that. And all makers will! Other might not.
I am convinced that the Performance of the mill will ripe out enormously with experience an with a professional state of the art mill and patient experience, logging. Especially the drill/ material selection seem to be essential and an art on its own.
Without a crisis I had had not the time to look Videos on CNC machines btw. And I saw all, nearly. ; )
And now I MUST build one.
Actually for an other much bigger one project.. then.
Cant imagine how you doubt not going on with this project. Its the biggest modifyable freemill(some americans got lost in license wars yet..) with 2 nemas on screws.. the backleand y axis must prove in practice... as the potentially non fenced front and backload could be a keyfeature(only the lowrider design on mpcnc has simular... maybee..)
anyway. theres a goooooood chance i order the parts from you...
i really obey that piece of work.
cheers!
If bearing block is not an option, try 3d print the end block of the motor side, with hefty design, and use real angular contact bearing for both end. This way, you can keep using the pricey oldham coupling.
This machine already has nice solid frame, expensive ball screws and big stepper motors, don't let a mistake kill its potential.
Congratulations Nikodem, your new cnc machine is awesome and I'll make one for sure! Greetings from Brazil.
Świetny kanał! Nie rozumiem w jaki sposób do tej pory umknął moim filtrom youtuba, bo z całą pewnością jest on blisko powiązany z tym co robię i czym się interesuję. Życzę powodzenia i dalszego rozwijania swoich projektów oraz samego kanału, bo jestem przekonany, że ma spory potencjał :)
Your IndyMill is looking good. I have enjoyed watching your progress. Thank you for sharing.
Starting to look good now, we'll done. I now have all the parts from your BOM and whilst I appreciate that your design is not complete and subject to design change it would be really helpful if you could release some of the more mature steel component so we could try and locally source them. You may want to consider releasing to your patron first which may encourage people to participate and you'll start to receive a little funds for you efforts.
Hi there. Love the videos and woukd like to ask what bit and settings you used in cncjs to Mill the 5mm aluminum please.
You are the best, this is very simple and light design. For the ball axis, perhaps you could fix the axis with ball bearings near the nema, so the force will be resisted by the bearings not the couple.
Great to see how this has evolved from that 3d printed CNC. Great work!
You should get some soft jaws for your vise. Hurts my soul watching you put nice parts into the serrated jaws.
Those fancy bearings as you put it aren't fancy, they are essential for use with ballscrews to constrain the axial load from your cutting forces, without them you won't have accuracy or repeatability worth a damn but you will end up with premature bearing failure of your motor bearings, those plum/lovejoy couplers are also useless for this application, you require disk couplers rated at the correct torque loading. Save up and do it once and do it right, otherwise you'll end up spending more in the long run. Sorry if that is harsh but reality is frequently harsh, you may have noticed.
Excellent job
Can you post a relitive overall cost for the various design's and their postings? (bom is great, just a total cost as of when you check would be nice)
Love your design! Why not use direct drive for the Z-axis instead of a belt drive?
This project is awesome!! But it would be very helpful if you make one video showing how to model and assemble the entire machine in fusion 360.
This is such an inspiration! Thank you!
6:00 Triggered by that Hammerite mess...
in my case (im building this with one of my friends) we will use a skr 1.3 with tmc 5160 for extra power, and marlin firmware (we like the sdcard support built into the board) (and I'm very familiar with marlin too)
Muy buenos videos y educativos, saludos desde Uruguay!
I guess it wouldn't be a great idea to mount a 5 kg 2.2 kW spindle on the Indymill?
you need to use the ball-screw bearing blocks they have preloaded thrust rated bearings in them this is one of the biggest reasons you can get the tight precision out of them is preloaded bearings also only use one bearing block to capture the screw and the other in just put it in a lose hole to prevent over constraint, doing this you can get 0.003 or better repeat ability out of that system..
also on your little machine get a block or delrin cut in half heat the ends tells it's really soft and pinch the shaft with it making your own delrin acme nut doing this will take more to spin the shafts but no back lash as the nut is a perfect fit to the shaft google it lots of vids on how to do this
Super. Tak trzymać!
Dzięki!
If you cnc this part on the Dremel cnc, could it be feasible to produce all of the laser cut parts in the Dremel cnc? I think that would make for a great logical progression. 3d printer>>Dremel CNC>>Indy Mill.
What kinde of steele did you use for the laser parts?
I think that PSU should be in some sort of enclosure. You never know when some alu chip will fly inside.
@Nikodem Bartnik What are you going to use as the "brains" for this operation? Ive been in the process of making a cnc myself when I stumbled upon your videos and I think they are so cool!! Ive got almost everything figured out for mine but I don't know what to use as a controller board to hook the drivers up to. I used a all-in-one board for my 3d printer I made, but those dont really exist for cncs. I'll be excited to see your video on hooking up the electronics!! :)
Hello Nikodem will you use and introduce the new GRBL 1.1h feature, the dual motor support for gantry CNC machines?
You do use 2 NEMA motors for your Y- axis it would be a improvement to have GRBL self square the gantry everytime you
hit the endswitches. Cheers.
Hello Nikodem
Love your work
Can you please list the size and the length of the screw you use on that project?
Oded
What type of trapezoidal lead screw is that? Pitch? Lead?
cool dad helping you out :D nice
Zacznę od tego, że wielki szacun za to co robisz!! A teraz przechodząc do konkretów... Mój znajomy poprosił mnie o zrobienie dla niego CNC. Planuję zrobić Twoją wersję, tą drukowaną na drukarce, żeby ogarnąć budowę, działanie, wady itp., zanim stworzę tą właściwą, stricte pod jego oczekiwania. Niestety jednym z nich jest pole robocze, które musi być wysokie na 25-27cm. Trochę ze swoimi CNC na pewno przeżyłeś, więc może zaobserwowałeś i możesz stwierdzić czy tak wysokie pole robocze będzie bardzo problematyczne?? Czy lepiej rozwiązać to obniżonym stołem, bo nad tym też się zastanawiałem, bo maksymalnie 2cm w głąb materiału, który będzie obrabiał, będzie schodziła ta maszyna
Good afternoon. it would be cool if in the manual to the cnc there is a list of milling cutters that you used on your machine and they showed themselves well. with purchase links. I’m breaking my head so that I can take it at the beginning. because I want to cut aluminum and wood. anyway repeat your big cnc
Good video👍, would love to see the power of that machine when it's completed.
Thanks! Me too :D
6:28 rc cyber truck? :)
Maybe :)
Great video. Small thing... You will get better results if you use a special metal primer before using Hammerite on email.
Beat me to it, self etching primer is a good safe bet when painting aluminium.
Aluminium not sure why that corrected to email!
Hello from Sweden.
I just found you and your channel on UA-cam while searching for awesome cnc diy'ers.
And I've got say that from the many designs I've seen, this one by FAR is the most interesting.
You seem to really have a awesome machine going here.
You mentioned in one of the videos that you might put up the parts (steel plates) for sale on the website. Is that a reality or?
Someone surely already asked, but what did cost al together?
Thank a million and keep up the excellent work👍👍👍😛😀
Can something heavy (such as a block of concrete/metal) bolted to the base aid in rigidity?
@@Gilbert_LUL precision granite slates! heard of them, would somthing cheaper (concrete, block of metal), or simply countertop granite work if leveled well, and not for some super high end work? Also wondering for super high speed fdm travel etc to prevent ringing
@@ericlotze7724 you can get cheaper granit slab and lap it. there are a few youtube videos of people building mills that way gantry and all of granite
great work man, respect, keep it up!
Wait... Hammerite "prosto na rdze" used directly on aluminium? Hemmerite recomends it for ferrous metals only, but I wonder if that works for you(?). Does it stick to the surface?
Hope to see your vids more often, good luck ;)
there should be a collar on the lead screw to avoid forces on the motor's bearings and on the coupler
buenos días desde México, una pregunta, me ayudarías con la broca que usaste, que velocidad de corte y profundidad de paso utilizaste,gracias
You really need those "fancy" bearing blocks. Otherwise you will have backlash and sooner or later you will destroy stepper motors.
he is still skeptical about the bearing blocks. It will works without them, but having them will definitely enable the machine to run with full potential.
slow motion picking up screwdriver haha lol
Yeah, I was all "pffftt, artsy screwdriver picking up. What next?"
Isn't openbuilds cnc all opensource? Are you creating a competitor to openbuilds
Wspaniały materiał oby tak dalej!
Dzięki!
Niko, on your Dremel CNC you attached the motor directly to the Z axis. On the IndyMill, you use a belt. Why the change?
easier to design it that way. Right here I don't have flexibility of 3D printing so some compromises have to be made. And also this one is actually better because stepper motor is actually not connected directly to the screw
Thank you.
Greetings from Brazil.
Hello , very good job for this one. One question : I have the same spindle and it heats quite quickly. I tried to implement a water cooling solution but have not tested it properly yet. I came across your new designed fan in Thingiverse, is it really efficient? Thanks
How much was the total cost to build this?
Good to hear that you're following the advice to at least consider rigid couplings :)
I will try to avoid them and see what will happen :) that's something that I can always add later
@@nikodembartnik I also think you should use the couplers. If you don't the forces are passed into the bearing in the nema motors and those are not designed for axial forces and could damage them.
What size is the GT2 belt?
dem nice mate
( 6:10 ) I love to know what kinda paint that is! I always assumed the only way for finishing Aluminum is anodizing.
www.hammerite.com/
what software you use to draw the parts..
Quality content :D pozdrowienia z Katowic
Dzięki bardzo! Pozdrowienia z Bytomia
My professor Hello teacher, I have a dramel brand cnc from your brands, although I have a stepper motor torque of 4.7 kgm, I make the y axis current settings fully, but it stops immediately when it is a little weak, I use a 10 amp power supply, everything is ok, but there is this problem, how can we solve another nema 17 stepper current settings 0.8 0.6 I am doing it again, the same, how else can we handle it.
On the note of belts being complex to source, have you expiremented with 3d printed belts?
Info if you are intrested:
wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/3D_Printed_GT2_Belts
stay healthy Nikodem ! Thats inportend right now
So your new version for Z axis does not support nema 17 motor only setup?
because i am planning to use nema 17 because i have many of these
@have you built the indymill yet? I am halfway done
@@toddroles3234 yes and its not that easy to build. Low quality linear rail is worse than classic rail and more expensive...
And i am strugling with the Zaxis because the 1.5Kw spindle is too heavy and there is to much friction for the linear rail
Ever considered 3D printing your belt?
4:28 meet EMI, have fun!
Jaki był powód ,że zamiast wycinania kontur i zostawiania podpór(tabs) wywiercałeś cały środek oprócz ostatnich warstw?
Ostatnie warstwy zostały bo był jakiś problem na osi Z (pewnie trzeba by śrubę wyczyścić). A o konturze mówiłem, nie przepadam za robieniem go w aluminium
your project looks good, please, replace the 3d printed parts that are in key places ass soon as possible...
ten duży otwór można było dużo szybciej wyfrezować - zrobić kolejny element w środku tego otworu i oszukać cama w fusion 360. Żeby robił to jak kieszeń ale jednak byłby to trochę szerszy rowek niż frez i objechać do około trochoidalną ścieżką.
Hola, soy de Bolivia y quiero comprar el kit de placas de acero IndyMill. Me podrías aclarar específicamente que viene en este kit
Dlaczego nie frezowałeś dużej kieszeni na wylot? skoro robisz ją jako pocket, można było zejść np 0.2mm poniżej materiał i poświęcić kawałek stołu :D ew nie myślałeś o mocowaniu detali w jakimś małym imadle?
What's the total cost for building a Indymill?
about $700-$900
MAY I KNOW,which software you use for making 3d drawing.
Fusion 360
Thnx
A solid coupling is not likely to work very well because the stepper shaft can easily move axially, the bearings are spring loaded to allow for a bit of movement. Flip the ballscrew around and constrain it axially at the far end with two ball bearings or thrust bearings, there is little radial load so I've not had any problems with them just clamped around an aluminium plate. imgur.com/GcmT2JM
jak sie nazywa program do rysovania ktory uzywasz (te schematy
)
Fusion360
Nikodem co sądzisz o drukarce 3d Creality Cr-10 v2 ? a może znasz lepszą alternatywę ?
Nigdy nie używałem, mam od 2 lat CR10 wersję 1 i działa do tej pory bardzo fajnie. Jeśli nie zależy ci na rozmiarze to polecam endera 3, a jeśli coś droższego to oczywiście oryginalna prusa i3
oraz gdzie można się z Tobą kontaktować ? ponieważ w niedalekiej przyszłości również chcę stworzyć frezarkę cnc
@@AdamMaszynotwor z chęcią obejrzę Twój materiał :)
@@AdamMaszynotwor Nie spodziewałem się że kupisz drukarkę 3d. Ty jako mój ekspert od cnc a teraz zobaczę jak temat druku 3d ogarniasz. Ja posiadam Ender3 i jak się ją poprawi po naszych skośnych przyjaciołach to drukuje poprawnie.
Hi, I live in Iran and I am very interested in cnc, but I can't afford it and I can't help you. I can ask you to teach me.
Not your fault a pandemic happened, best of luck!
Belts try looking at electric lawn mowers they have replaceable belts of all sizes. Or printer motor belts.
I want to buy a machine like that
Ty loziskove bloky pro kulickovy sroub bych aspon jeden dal. Vetsina krok.motoru ma vuli v ose hridele. Stavel jsem si kdysi neco hodne podobneho, mozna mensi: forum.strojirenstvi.cz/viewtopic.php?t=22813
Nakonec to dopadlo trochu jinak nez plany v prvnim prispevku :) Prave kvuli te vuli v ose jsem nakonec dal samostatne kulickove srouby a vetsi motory. Ale na dalsim (vetsim) cnc uz chci closed-loop motory a dva kulickove srouby v Y (jako mas ty). Na jednom uprostred se to krouti jak zizala (pri obrabeni kovu) :)
Proc jsi ten nejvetsi otvor obrabel jako kapsu a ne jen konturou? Zbytecne moc odpadu a kurvis si nastroj. Ja takove otvory jedu konturou s 0,2mm odsazenim, pak ten stred vyndam a jedu znova na cisto. Plus to strikam lihem, kvuli mazani.
Dremel CNC makes Indymill
Indymill makes....?
(Perhaps I am getting too far ahead?)
Why not :) I already have some cool projects on my mind that I will be able to make thanks to this one!
I remember this old machinist at my school say that the Lathe was the only machine that could build bigger and better versions of itself. I think we can add the CNC to the category. DremelCNC to Indy to IndyMega!
@@PaulDominguez : you are absolutely right! A lathe is one of the most empowering tools of our times. Heat is another one. Digital control of machinery is the icing on the cake! 👍
Everything is fine with the couplers! But the lead screws needs to be fixed on the other side.
The lead screws must not transmit axial loads to the motors. This is bad for motors and reduces the accuracy of the machine to zero.
I managed to lock the screws for on Dremel CNC project.
photos.app.goo.gl/UoGbXAMY7SXBuYEx8
gdzie w dzisiejszych czasach zaopatrujesz się w aluminium takie jak na tym filmie?
Your USB lead is too long, should switch to Bluetooth or a proper shorter length USB cable
The nema 23 for the z is overkill plus it ads weight. Usually when you buy set of steppers you buy 3 or 5 so not really a valid reason.
you need to build an arduino 3d printer
Hello your ballscrew m’est be fixed at the end at the level of the bearing.
First
420 🤣
First?
bonjour, je suis là pour ajouter un avis négatif malheureusement, pour commencer j'ai posté un avis sur le site pour le kit de plaques en acier découper au laser et lavis n'a pas été poster ! honnêtement pour le prix que j'ai payé ce n'est vraiment pas correct déjà j'ai remarqué que les plaque n'était pas complètement plate donc mais railles linéaire force (je le sais car quand j'ai je serrais juste la railles le wagon avancer difficilement et pas quand je le mettais de l'autre côté), il n'a pas mis les roulements (51101 size 12 26 9) dans le lien et ne l'a précisé nul par à part sur l'une de ces vidéos donc perte de temps…
hello, I'm here to add a negative review unfortunately, to begin with I posted a review on the site for the laser cut steel plate kit and the review was not posted! honestly for the price I paid it's really not correct already I noticed that the plates were not completely flat so but rails linear force (I know it because when I have I just squeeze the rails the wagon moving hard and not when I put it on the other side), he did not put the bearings (51101 size 12 26 9) in the link and did not specify it anywhere except on one of these videos so waste of time...
First thing no spamming please.
Your review was blocked by spam filters as it was not written in English.
It is true that some of the rail supports are a bit bended that is caused by the manufacturing process (laser cutting 8mm with small holes in the middle) but that does not influence how the machine work at all. If assembled properly there should be no problem. Try to loose the screws that fix linear rail carriage to the spindle plate and fix them again, that should help.
@@nikodembartnik I have to agree with @lebonjeuxdugeek, I bought your plates (drilled and powedercoated) in November 2022, and am stopped in my assembly of the indymill because the y plates have some warp/bend to them. When I attach and tighten to the mgn12 blocks, it binds and does not slide well. If i only tighten screws on one block, slides perfect, but when i tighten on second block, binds. I filed the part of the y block where the bearing goes and have gotten it more flat and smooth, but when i tighten one, it is still a little bit off on other. I am now trying to "shim" the other part (with aluminum foil strips) where it attaches to the mgn12 block and it is better, but still not sliding smooth. if the plate is not perfectly level where it attaches to the 2 mgn12 blocks, it causes the blocks to bind on the rail. Very frustrating. I proved this by getting a new piece of 6mm aluminum plate and drilling with dremel cnc the 8 mounting holes for the mgn12 blocks on the y plate and when tightened, it slides perfect. I am going to try to file your plates more flat, but I worry i am going to have to have some new Y plates manufactured. I can show you pictures
My professor Hello teacher, I have a dramel brand cnc from your brands, although I have a stepper motor torque of 4.7 kgm, I make the y axis current settings fully, but it stops immediately when it is a little weak, I use a 10 amp power supply, everything is ok, but there is this problem, how can we solve another nema 17 stepper current settings 0.8 0.6 I am doing it again, the same, how else can we handle it.