Any idea on other useful things that can be added to a CNC? Have a nice day everyone! Some remarks to the video: 1. I will add dust shoe soon, there will be a video about that. I already have a vacuum cleaner (you can see it at the end of a video) 2. I am also working on a clamping system for the threaded table 3. Should I create a Facebook group for IndyMill builders? 4. I want to make a live stream on UA-cam, is it a good idea? 5. First
Hey, I am working on making my CNC closed loop. Recently makers base published a board that attaches to the back of the stepper and is quite cheap. Google "makersbase closed loop stepper".
Thanks for the video. 1. super, as most people that will be one of the first project im making on a new cnc 2. nice, many people are using t-slot tables, maybe something that can be used there also ? 3. please do, or reddit group, ill might make it soon, there is some disquisition of your design there already 4. yeah why not, its all good fun, maybe make it as a Q&A segment also, so all of us that are builing it now can connect and so on. 5. hehe 6. thanks for correcting hte link for the thread rod dust prints 7. thanks for updating the indymill site with the upgrades and links to buy :) 8. you have 4 x M6x60 in your buildplans that is not used, but nice plans, worth the price and im glad to support you. 9. Have a nice day, good work man - kenneth
Have you looked into making bent sheet metal brackets to replace the printed ones that link the ball screws to the carriages? I've been having trouble with their strength and it seems like a relatively easy thing to make.
My mill at work doesn't kill shut off the spindle either and I haven't ever had a problem with it! On the lathes we have that shut off the chuck when the E-stop is pressed they have a brake or they are run by servos. I don't think yours would actually come anywhere close to stopping just like mine if you cut power to it anyway. Fantastic video!! Don't know how you don't have ten million subscribers!!
Agreed, if anything goes wrong with cables or switches mechanics, damn that damage.. I also suggessed to use IR light gate sensors (as used 3D printers Z axis homing) to get very good accurate for CNC homing :)
Do you think noise buffering for limit switches is needed -- like using GRBL Buffer (I think it uses opto-coupling to eliminate noise). The GRBL Github page on limit switch wiring has various scenarios for noise on steppers using this, or caps and resistors. Would twisting the wiring pair to the switch help instead? Anything special for wiring this between the switches, the IndyShield V2 and the Arduino?
You could have a doubble pole, doubble throw relay for the cutoff. Just make sure the power through the switch ( either side ) is able to do the max of either the spindle or all of the steppers. It will allow you to connect the stop switch to one board ( enable/disable the relay ) and power for the steppers separate from the spindle in case you have higher voltage on the spindle. Really good upgrades, I should add all that to my cheap mini mill.
Not specific to IndyMill, but a tip that might be helpful... when you first install your drag-chain insert a loop of nylon cord through it. (Leave it there permanently). When you want to add a wire, attach it to the cord and pull it through. (Make sure your loop cannot be accidentally pulled through by routing it around the crossbars of the end links in the chain.) I bet you have to read this more than once to figure out what the heck I'm talking about! ;o)
Hi, is those limit switches accurate enough? I think you should use ir light gates which are very inexpencive and used for 3D printers Z axis calibration 👌 Then you would home with very good accurate. Z probing, hmm nothing holds that bad down and there was aircap when you probed, what about mounting that probe pad rigid somewhere in corner of this cnc? Ah but then you need Z=0 homing sensor to apply thicness of material 🤔 Ive also seen you dont use any tape/papersheet under pieces you are milling (as thinn spacer), that would be great so you dont ruin MDF underneat working piece! :)
Personally I'd wire your E-stop to the "Feed hold" in GRBL as it will stop the motors as well but stop Gcode from running. I think if you release the E-stop the Gcode will keep running and you'll lose your position. I have my E-stop wired to stop everything. Should there be smoking coming from the electronics or w/e I can just quickly power everything down.
Great as always👍 Hey, want to ask you. I missed out on the plates you had in your shop, is there a new batch coming or am I out of luck? Anyways, what you have created is nothing short of amazing and I can't wait for the next video. Thanx a ton.👍👍👍
@@nikodembartnik Great to hear👍 It looks and sounds to me like you have made an excellent machine. I have a mini 1419 cnc machine but it's just too small. I was thinking i would make your machine a bit bigger then yours, around 1000x1000mm shouldn't be a problem right? Thank you so much for this, i really hope you keep up the great work.👍👍👍
Where can I download the stl for the limit switch holder? I cant find it in the description or your thingiverse. I love your work brother! Been buying the parts to build an indymill and happy to see i have v2 of your shield 😂
Hello Nik, really appreciate your work on these CNC machines. I'm trying to build a dual drive Y - axis CNC but I'm worried about squaring the gantry. How did you square Indy Mill without limit switches?
Hello Nikodem, perhaps asked before.. but what is about the total price building this great machine ? I am looking at building a cutting machine and this seems a good base to create this.
Dude Is the fist time i watch a video of yours and you are crazy smart. I got into 3d printing with the goal of beeing able to build cnc's machines and i just saw this video along side with the dremil cnc which is crazy good. Keep up with the projects. You are amazing :)
When I built my MPCNC, I repeatedly read that I shouldn't bother with limit switches. I didn't listen, and I'm very glad. They're very useful. In fact, the limit switches on my laser CNC don't work correctly and it's my 1 complaint about it. I have to manually home it, and my accuracy suffers because of it.
Hi there, i was wondering are you able with IndyMill drill brass? I would love to make one for our space, and it would be helpfull if we can machine even brass. If not what would be needed to change? Please let me know, even if you think it will be hard to do it. Thank you.
Really appreciate your work. I'm in the making of my own low cost 3d printed cnc and both the dremel cnc and this one has been a massive help and inspiration for my work. Keep up what you do!
Nice work! Will you try milling some materials like steel, stainless steel or some hard metals? I'll hope yes... And looking forward for the next video!
I do think that it would not be able to machine steel. I just finished my thesis on designing a 3D mill, but the actual building is needs atleast a 1-2 months. I mostly planned for aluminium, but i am curious about steel. I will sure try it, but i give a huge thumbs up on a video for that. I looked for videos on steel machining on routers, but there is like 1 or 2 videos on the topic. Even if it fails and does not work i would recommend to make a video on it.
Yes, there aren't lots of videos about milling steel on router. However when 3d printed Dremel cnc is able to mill aluminium, i truly believe that Indymill will be able to mill steel
@@popplyn3317 aluminium is different than steel. The problem is that for milling metal you would need lower rpm on the spindle. In low rpm these spindles do not have any torque. With aluminium you can get away with the right tool. Also the rigidity of the frame could be problematic, vibrations could mess up everything. My design may be a little bit tougher, but the linear guides are worse, since i went cheap and designed linear rods. I am really curious if it will be able yo mill steel eith a 2.2 kw spindle
Hi Nikodem My students and I have built the Indymill. We are having a problem getting limit switches in any configuration to work. We’ve tried NC and NO wiring with shielded cable, check continuity in all configuration, and tried several configurations of GRBL commands. The only reaction we see is an alarm on start up with homing enabled in some configuration, but not because the switches are activated. Activating a switch seems to have no effect in any configuration. Is there anything about the Indyshield, we might be missing? We have v2. We would like to be able to home and depend on GRBL limits to keep the machine safe. We are using CNCjs to edit GRBL and upload Gcode. Any suggestions would be helpful.
@@nikodembartnik First video you had in 1.5kw in the description and never build it with it so I thought it wouldn't work Ok as soon as you have them in stock I will purchase thx
I already have 1.5kW spindle at my workshop but firstly I want to play with 500W spindle, show you what it can do in some more videos and then upgrade to 1.5kW
E-stop should 100% also turn off the spindle, absolute must as well as the stepper motors. I work with industrial CNC machines and thats how they all work and its a matter of safety. Last thing you want, is to hit stop after cutting a small part, the spindle still spinning at xxxxxx rpm and that part fly off the cnc. I've had parts dislodged and get picked up by the spindle itself. now u have a spindle spinning massively unbalanced and trying to carry on cutting. You hit the e-stop, if the spindle is still spinning, that part is also still spinning. it can start fires, destroy tools, and can also potentially destroy your spindle. If your spindle has a break, the motor should be turned off with the e-stop and break applied. These little things make a MASSIVE difference when you need it. better to have it set and not need it, then to need it and regret it later after untold damage has be caused. Please understand I am speaking from years of experience here, but of course to each their own. there is no downside in my opinion on stopping the spindle, and very little upsides. if you want to stop but keep stuff spinning (because its safe to do so), that should be a pause function. as far as E-stop resetting the program, thats what my machines do, however i guess thats a matter of preference, although i dont have a choice with the machines i use. If you know how, its not difficult to resume a program from where you E-stopped anyway. Personally I think the software should reset the program but at least output the line number of where the program ended prematurely so you know where you need to resume from. win win.
I really don't understand how you guys got the limit switches and touch plate working using cncjs. After hooking everything up my machine never goes to the limit switches, and it never probes. When you click the blue button on cncjs to home, the machine throws an alarm and does nothing, if you click the X0Y0 button that seems to move to some random spot. When you tell the machine to do a Z probe, it goes down 1mm and then goes up 5mm as set in the config. My limit switches are hooked up as NC, I don't see where I went so wrong on this setup that none of these basic functions are working.
These are nice upgrades, I was also thinking of emergency stop switch and have added led strip just like you and I added wires for endstops when assembling. I cut off parts of gauntry plates to increase build area. (y-bearing holder restricted) I also bought extrusion slot cover for aluminium extrusions, looks really good and helps keeping the machine clean. I still need to fix the z-axis since I have 6mm plates under the rails and it's too tight. Otherwise my indymill works perfect, I just need to learn fusion360 cam. 😅
Hello, what about EMI? It would be great if you can make Indyshield V2 with added optocouplers for reducing EMI on Limit switches, and also integrated 0-10V PWM signal for stronger spindle. :)
It served me very well for some projects that you can see on my channel and some other things I made off youtube. Unfortunately, recently I had to move out of my workshop (there is a video about it) so I am not able to use the machine for at least next 2 months (I am building a shed for my tools)
Pretty please add some clips to the led strips, they will fall down. The adhesive that are pre-applied on those are garbage. When they heat up, and the CNC vibrates, they will end up on the work piece, being chewed up by the mill!
Serious question - I might be missing something when it comes to the Indymill, but I am right now building the DremelCNC in a modified version. Modified because in the original design all the axial load on the lead screws goes right to the bearings in the stepper motors. It you're lucky, some of it will rest on the 608 bearings, but only through friction, and they are not really made for high axial loads (all force you need to push the endmill forward needs to be handled by the bearings!). Are you considering adding bearings (like flange bearings, I use the KFL08 on my modified DremelCNC) to the Indymill that actually clamp the leadscrew?
Currently building my own machine and I'm taking tons of precautions about electromagnetic interference. From short wire runs to shielded cables, testing everything with an Oscilloscope etc. It seems you're fine without much of that. Any input on that? Can I simply my design by caring less about it? Also really looking forward to your dust shoe solution, that's the one thing I haven't figured out yet!
You should try BTT SKR 1.4 turbo is a 23bit board for 3d printing but you can easy program for cnc ,it's cheap but you will feel a lot of difference in performance
Hello again. I can't see or hear you ever telling us the cut area on this amazing machine. Could you please tell us? I'm gathering materials as i write this to build my own. Thanks for amazing work
Hello! Love your videos! I want to build the indymill but was wondering if the work area could easily be sized up to closer to a 4ft x 4ft area? And also maybe a bigger spindle?
Cześć jeden z niewielu komentarzy po Polsku ;-). Ostatnio miałem plan zbudować wzorowaną na twoim pomyśle frezarkę CNC. Jednak pomyślałem, że zmodyfikuję trochę plany ( inne długości elementów, i o drobinę inne kształty) i wtedy pomyślałem o end-switch'ach i odciągu wiórów. Akurat film jak znalazł, bo jestem w 3/4 projektowania maszyny i zacząłem uwzględniać te elementy. O odciągu myślałem podobnym do X-carve, budowanym między innymi przez Marius'a Hornberger'a, budowa jego nie była ultra trudna i proste montowanie na magnesy, więc do niego bym się skłaniał podczas projektowania. A jeżeli chodzi o wyłącznik awaryjny, to popieram opinię z komentarza poniżej, że dobrze by było wyłączać układ przez rozłączenie przewodu fazowego. A tak to świetna robota. Takie jeszcze pytanie- ile dałeś za wycięcie na laserze tych metalowych elementów montażowych ? To wszystko ode mnie trzymaj się :-)
Nikodem z tego co ja uczę się automatyki i budowy wszelakich maszyn przycisk bezpieczeństwa powinien być umieszczony na głównej lini zasilającej jakiekolwiek urządzenie. Trochę rozumiem dlaczego go założyłeś właśnie tam a nie w innym miejscu ale moim zdaniem aby w pełni spełniał swoje zadanie powinien po naciśnięciu przycisku przerywać przewód fazowy przed zasilaczem. Nawet we wszelkich normach jest napisane że przycisk ma chronić przed wszystkimi rodzajami zagrożeń elektrycznych a teraz wciskając go tak naprawdę tylko odłączone zostaną silnik, nie zabezpieczy on sytuacji w której zacznie ci się dziać coś niespodziewanego w całej skrzynce z elektroniką i teoretycznie gdyby tam się coś działo to osoba z zewnątrz widząc taki przycisk mogłaby go wcisnąć i myśleć że po sprawie ale tam niestety dalej będzie napięcie. Sory za ten przydługawy wywód i jeszcze po polsku a nie po angielsku ale łatwiej mi było to napisać w takiej formie i jasno i zrozumiale się wyrazić. P.S bardzo fajny materiał i ciekawe rozwinięcie projektu.
Very nicely done, I’m a CNC enthusiast and your work is phenomenal. Personally I want to build my very own machine for my home workshop and I’m considering doing Indymill
Great video, my Indishield has arrived today, so your tip about the limit switch is perfect timing. Just ordering switch’s now! Thanks for sharing this build.
I was just about to model a limit switch holder like the one you used in the video. Thanks a lot, saved me a lot of time. Keep up with the great work! I learned a lot from you for my own cnc build. :)
Hey, I was looking into the .dxf files and the "500W spindle plate" file, appears to be with wrong measurements (it shows over 2meters of size wich is very odd...) I'm building an Indymill myself and idk how to proceed
Nikodem pls, sorry to take you back your older build(Dremel cnc) I mistakenly ordered lead screws with 2mm lead instead of 8mm lead. Does using the 2mm lead for the X and y axis reduce the efficiency of the machine?
The lead screw size usually refers to the diameter. And 2mm leadscrew sounds unusaul. common are these 8 mm leads. leadscrews are ususaully prefered to other transport systems as belts oder rack and pinows, as leadscrews are more precise, especially those with ballnuts. google ballnut leadscrews. i am not sure if there is a real ballnut system on here. propably not. BUT. its a known issue, that 8 mms tend to vibrate if they are longer than a meter or so. therefor some cncs have pulling mechanisms as the queenbee workbee. these put the longer screws under tension. but "real cncs" in the nema 23 class generally favor ballnuts on leadscrews, generally at least 12mm or 16mm. And even 20mm is not uncommon.anyway, thats the real thing and litle more expensive. i have not startet my projekt yet, i would not start below 16mm screw, 16 mm rails, actually 20 mm linearrails, if not 2 on each side of the x achsis. and of cause 2 nema23 for the x. and 160x80 extrusions for y axis. anyway. the broader belts of 10mm to 15 mm should be reliable enough and offer a cheap alternative.
I've added limit switches (NC) but have trouble with interference from the spindle. Everything works fine: homing the three axis, then setting the Z depth with a sensor. But as soon as the spindle starts the Arduino will pick up a signal (spike) and the system goes in an Alarm. Maybe my spindle is producing more noise than others, I use the same as in the list (Machifit ER11 Chuck CNC 500W Spindle Motor). Tried different earth connections, but no solution.
Yes, that is the (temporary) solution. Here is how: $21=1 (hard limits enable) $22=1 (homing cycle enable) $H (home) G10 L20 P1 Y0 (workpos Y=0) G10 L20 P1 X0 (workpos X=0) $21=0 (hard limits disable) $20=1 (soft limits on, set $130-132 for the size of your CNC)
Hi, you can find it at indystry.cc/indymill together with other STL files and also on my GitHub: github.com/NikodemBartnik/IndyMill/blob/master/3D%20Printed/Limit%20switch%20holder.stl
Here I am again, congratulations again on the upgrades you are doing... I believe that soon you will also make an adapter to vacuum the shavings. I wanted to ask you 2 other things: 1) if I want to mount a laser module instead of the spindle, beyond the fixing attachment to the Z axis, what would I need from an electronics point of view? I have seen ready-made 2 in 1 cnc (like the 3018) that have a control board other than Arduino as you used instead. 2) would it be possible to increase the height of the Z axis and integrate an extruder instead of the spindle for 3D printing? Or do you need to make other changes? I hope you can answer me soon. Keep it up!
I think the e-stop should rather tell the controller to hold the current position and power off the spindle. Some other youtuber had issues where the rotating tool dug into the workpiece and yanked the gantry to the side, crashing into the machine limits. I think it was Winston Moy, but don't quote me on that.
Any idea on other useful things that can be added to a CNC? Have a nice day everyone!
Some remarks to the video:
1. I will add dust shoe soon, there will be a video about that. I already have a vacuum cleaner (you can see it at the end of a video)
2. I am also working on a clamping system for the threaded table
3. Should I create a Facebook group for IndyMill builders?
4. I want to make a live stream on UA-cam, is it a good idea?
5. First
First of all you are amazing
Second of all, I agree with you for making youtube live stream
Hey, I am working on making my CNC closed loop. Recently makers base published a board that attaches to the back of the stepper and is quite cheap. Google "makersbase closed loop stepper".
Thanks for the video.
1. super, as most people that will be one of the first project im making on a new cnc
2. nice, many people are using t-slot tables, maybe something that can be used there also ?
3. please do, or reddit group, ill might make it soon, there is some disquisition of your design there already
4. yeah why not, its all good fun, maybe make it as a Q&A segment also, so all of us that are builing it now can connect and so on.
5. hehe
6. thanks for correcting hte link for the thread rod dust prints
7. thanks for updating the indymill site with the upgrades and links to buy :)
8. you have 4 x M6x60 in your buildplans that is not used, but nice plans, worth the price and im glad to support you.
9. Have a nice day, good work man
- kenneth
Live Stream will be awesome.
Have you looked into making bent sheet metal brackets to replace the printed ones that link the ball screws to the carriages?
I've been having trouble with their strength and it seems like a relatively easy thing to make.
My mill at work doesn't kill shut off the spindle either and I haven't ever had a problem with it! On the lathes we have that shut off the chuck when the E-stop is pressed they have a brake or they are run by servos. I don't think yours would actually come anywhere close to stopping just like mine if you cut power to it anyway. Fantastic video!! Don't know how you don't have ten million subscribers!!
I just use the limit switches as safety switches. There are 6 in different spots!
Great job!! The CNC machine comes better every update.
Thanks!
👍 Without question, very good work, but as an electrician I would use NC switches (broken cables can set up catastrophic). Pozdrowienia.
Yeah, it would be safer
Agree. Fail safe!
Normally closed limit switches are better idea, if you have cable broken, you don’t crash you axises
True, also the switches fail as non-contact.
Also you can put them in serial this way and only use on endstop connector.
Agreed, if anything goes wrong with cables or switches mechanics, damn that damage..
I also suggessed to use IR light gate sensors (as used 3D printers Z axis homing) to get very good accurate for CNC homing :)
Do you think noise buffering for limit switches is needed -- like using GRBL Buffer (I think it uses opto-coupling to eliminate noise). The GRBL Github page on limit switch wiring has various scenarios for noise on steppers using this, or caps and resistors. Would twisting the wiring pair to the switch help instead? Anything special for wiring this between the switches, the IndyShield V2 and the Arduino?
You could have a doubble pole, doubble throw relay for the cutoff. Just make sure the power through the switch ( either side ) is able to do the max of either the spindle or all of the steppers. It will allow you to connect the stop switch to one board ( enable/disable the relay ) and power for the steppers separate from the spindle in case you have higher voltage on the spindle.
Really good upgrades, I should add all that to my cheap mini mill.
Not specific to IndyMill, but a tip that might be helpful... when you first install your drag-chain insert a loop of nylon cord through it. (Leave it there permanently). When you want to add a wire, attach it to the cord and pull it through. (Make sure your loop cannot be accidentally pulled through by routing it around the crossbars of the end links in the chain.)
I bet you have to read this more than once to figure out what the heck I'm talking about! ;o)
Hi, is those limit switches accurate enough? I think you should use ir light gates which are very inexpencive and used for 3D printers Z axis calibration 👌
Then you would home with very good accurate.
Z probing, hmm nothing holds that bad down and there was aircap when you probed, what about mounting that probe pad rigid somewhere in corner of this cnc? Ah but then you need Z=0 homing sensor to apply thicness of material 🤔
Ive also seen you dont use any tape/papersheet under pieces you are milling (as thinn spacer), that would be great so you dont ruin MDF underneat working piece! :)
Personally I'd wire your E-stop to the "Feed hold" in GRBL as it will stop the motors as well but stop Gcode from running. I think if you release the E-stop the Gcode will keep running and you'll lose your position. I have my E-stop wired to stop everything. Should there be smoking coming from the electronics or w/e I can just quickly power everything down.
Elegancko :)
Great as always👍
Hey, want to ask you. I missed out on the plates you had in your shop, is there a new batch coming or am I out of luck?
Anyways, what you have created is nothing short of amazing and I can't wait for the next video.
Thanx a ton.👍👍👍
Thanks! Yes, there will be more steel plate kits, there is a small delay in production but hopefully I will have them next week!
@@nikodembartnik
Great to hear👍
It looks and sounds to me like you have made an excellent machine.
I have a mini 1419 cnc machine but it's just too small.
I was thinking i would make your machine a bit bigger then yours, around 1000x1000mm shouldn't be a problem right?
Thank you so much for this, i really hope you keep up the great work.👍👍👍
Are you producing your steel plate kits on your Indymill???
No, I haven't tried machining steel yet :(
You should! I'd love to see it try!
How about a long term review?
Great Project!! Im thinking of making one using your plans and i have q about ball screw, will it run better on 1610 ?
Where can I download the stl for the limit switch holder? I cant find it in the description or your thingiverse.
I love your work brother! Been buying the parts to build an indymill and happy to see i have v2 of your shield 😂
Hi, you can find it on github: github.com/NikodemBartnik/IndyMill/tree/master/3D%20Printed
@nikodembartnik thank you brother
Hello Nik, really appreciate your work on these CNC machines. I'm trying to build a dual drive Y - axis CNC but I'm worried about squaring the gantry. How did you square Indy Mill without limit switches?
👏👏👏
Hello Nikodem, perhaps asked before.. but what is about the total price building this great machine ? I am looking at building a cutting machine and this seems a good base to create this.
where can i get cnc laser online and how much will it cost?
I've looked on your website but I can't find the dimension of this machine. What is the size of this machine?
It can be whatever, but I think he built 600mmx600mm (or one of those could be 650mm)
Can I manufacture and sell this device? I'm going to build on yours with a closed-loop stepper motor. I'm in Shanghai, China
Hi what should i use for my cnc dermel or Spindle 500w
Instead of a Facebook group try a discord server, so you can divide discussion by topic, anyway it's a great idea
Great idea!👍🏻
Yeah, that will be great.
Yes a discord server would be awesome, a place to discuss and share build ideas. And get help!
@@PaulSmith-gt2lm is discord text based? Or voice only? (They only time I used it was for the tribes game)
@@TheRainHarvester Both
8:11 I understood that reference haha
With endstop switches, wire to normally closed because if the wiring is broken it will fail open which will stop the machine.
Dude Is the fist time i watch a video of yours and you are crazy smart. I got into 3d printing with the goal of beeing able to build cnc's machines and i just saw this video along side with the dremil cnc which is crazy good. Keep up with the projects. You are amazing :)
Hello! Your Indymill looks grest, nice job. I sent you message on IG and gmail...I wonder when will you have steel plates and Indyshield ob stock?
Did you get any answer?
When I built my MPCNC, I repeatedly read that I shouldn't bother with limit switches.
I didn't listen, and I'm very glad. They're very useful.
In fact, the limit switches on my laser CNC don't work correctly and it's my 1 complaint about it. I have to manually home it, and my accuracy suffers because of it.
Do you try cut aluminum and steel yet?
Now I try to do as same you.
Hi there, i was wondering are you able with IndyMill drill brass? I would love to make one for our space, and it would be helpfull if we can machine even brass. If not what would be needed to change? Please let me know, even if you think it will be hard to do it. Thank you.
Really appreciate your work. I'm in the making of my own low cost 3d printed cnc and both the dremel cnc and this one has been a massive help and inspiration for my work. Keep up what you do!
Nice work!
Will you try milling some materials like steel, stainless steel or some hard metals? I'll hope yes... And looking forward for the next video!
I do think that it would not be able to machine steel. I just finished my thesis on designing a 3D mill, but the actual building is needs atleast a 1-2 months. I mostly planned for aluminium, but i am curious about steel. I will sure try it, but i give a huge thumbs up on a video for that. I looked for videos on steel machining on routers, but there is like 1 or 2 videos on the topic. Even if it fails and does not work i would recommend to make a video on it.
Yes, there aren't lots of videos about milling steel on router. However when 3d printed Dremel cnc is able to mill aluminium, i truly believe that Indymill will be able to mill steel
@@popplyn3317 aluminium is different than steel. The problem is that for milling metal you would need lower rpm on the spindle. In low rpm these spindles do not have any torque. With aluminium you can get away with the right tool. Also the rigidity of the frame could be problematic, vibrations could mess up everything.
My design may be a little bit tougher, but the linear guides are worse, since i went cheap and designed linear rods. I am really curious if it will be able yo mill steel eith a 2.2 kw spindle
Unrelated to CNC, but I love the music you chose for your video! And great video too!! Subscribed :)
Hi Nikodem
My students and I have built the Indymill. We are having a problem getting limit switches in any configuration to work. We’ve tried NC and NO wiring with shielded cable, check continuity in all configuration, and tried several configurations of GRBL commands. The only reaction we see is an alarm on start up with homing enabled in some configuration, but not because the switches are activated. Activating a switch seems to have no effect in any configuration. Is there anything about the Indyshield, we might be missing? We have v2. We would like to be able to home and depend on GRBL limits to keep the machine safe. We are using CNCjs to edit GRBL and upload Gcode. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Will it still fit a 1.5kw router ?
Will you have the steel parts back in stock ?
Also discord would be better
I think it will, why not?
Yes I will have more steel plates kit soon
Will consider that!
@@nikodembartnik First video you had in 1.5kw in the description and never build it with it so I thought it wouldn't work
Ok as soon as you have them in stock I will purchase thx
I already have 1.5kW spindle at my workshop but firstly I want to play with 500W spindle, show you what it can do in some more videos and then upgrade to 1.5kW
Ok great than it's a no brainier to build your design
E-stop should 100% also turn off the spindle, absolute must as well as the stepper motors. I work with industrial CNC machines and thats how they all work and its a matter of safety. Last thing you want, is to hit stop after cutting a small part, the spindle still spinning at xxxxxx rpm and that part fly off the cnc. I've had parts dislodged and get picked up by the spindle itself. now u have a spindle spinning massively unbalanced and trying to carry on cutting. You hit the e-stop, if the spindle is still spinning, that part is also still spinning. it can start fires, destroy tools, and can also potentially destroy your spindle. If your spindle has a break, the motor should be turned off with the e-stop and break applied. These little things make a MASSIVE difference when you need it. better to have it set and not need it, then to need it and regret it later after untold damage has be caused. Please understand I am speaking from years of experience here, but of course to each their own. there is no downside in my opinion on stopping the spindle, and very little upsides. if you want to stop but keep stuff spinning (because its safe to do so), that should be a pause function.
as far as E-stop resetting the program, thats what my machines do, however i guess thats a matter of preference, although i dont have a choice with the machines i use. If you know how, its not difficult to resume a program from where you E-stopped anyway. Personally I think the software should reset the program but at least output the line number of where the program ended prematurely so you know where you need to resume from. win win.
I really don't understand how you guys got the limit switches and touch plate working using cncjs. After hooking everything up my machine never goes to the limit switches, and it never probes. When you click the blue button on cncjs to home, the machine throws an alarm and does nothing, if you click the X0Y0 button that seems to move to some random spot. When you tell the machine to do a Z probe, it goes down 1mm and then goes up 5mm as set in the config. My limit switches are hooked up as NC, I don't see where I went so wrong on this setup that none of these basic functions are working.
These are nice upgrades, I was also thinking of emergency stop switch and have added led strip just like you and I added wires for endstops when assembling. I cut off parts of gauntry plates to increase build area. (y-bearing holder restricted)
I also bought extrusion slot cover for aluminium extrusions, looks really good and helps keeping the machine clean.
I still need to fix the z-axis since I have 6mm plates under the rails and it's too tight. Otherwise my indymill works perfect, I just need to learn fusion360 cam. 😅
Stupid question but can i but 500x600 piece of wood in the center or do i need to get a little more space to do so ?
I BUY A 1.5KW MOTOR ..HOW CONNECT THE INVERTER TO YOUR PCB INDY ?
As always, very inspiring! Thanks for the video.
Waiting for your Road End trip - 2020 video.
Yeah, I have to start working on that one soon!
Awesome CNC Build! Question: Do you have a list somewhere of the software you use with IndyMill? Thanks PS. I subscribed
Hello, what about EMI?
It would be great if you can make Indyshield V2 with added optocouplers for reducing EMI on Limit switches, and also integrated 0-10V PWM signal for stronger spindle. :)
Now that it's been a couple of years, how is the indymill serving you? What do you currently use it for?
It served me very well for some projects that you can see on my channel and some other things I made off youtube. Unfortunately, recently I had to move out of my workshop (there is a video about it) so I am not able to use the machine for at least next 2 months (I am building a shed for my tools)
Pretty please add some clips to the led strips, they will fall down. The adhesive that are pre-applied on those are garbage. When they heat up, and the CNC vibrates, they will end up on the work piece, being chewed up by the mill!
Serious question - I might be missing something when it comes to the Indymill, but I am right now building the DremelCNC in a modified version. Modified because in the original design all the axial load on the lead screws goes right to the bearings in the stepper motors. It you're lucky, some of it will rest on the 608 bearings, but only through friction, and they are not really made for high axial loads (all force you need to push the endmill forward needs to be handled by the bearings!). Are you considering adding bearings (like flange bearings, I use the KFL08 on my modified DremelCNC) to the Indymill that actually clamp the leadscrew?
Currently building my own machine and I'm taking tons of precautions about electromagnetic interference. From short wire runs to shielded cables, testing everything with an Oscilloscope etc. It seems you're fine without much of that.
Any input on that? Can I simply my design by caring less about it?
Also really looking forward to your dust shoe solution, that's the one thing I haven't figured out yet!
Wairing daigram tutorial vidio Upload cnc rautar
You should try BTT SKR 1.4 turbo is a 23bit board for 3d printing but you can easy program for cnc ,it's cheap but you will feel a lot of difference in performance
Hello again.
I can't see or hear you ever telling us the cut area on this amazing machine.
Could you please tell us?
I'm gathering materials as i write this to build my own.
Thanks for amazing work
Hello! Love your videos! I want to build the indymill but was wondering if the work area could easily be sized up to closer to a 4ft x 4ft area? And also maybe a bigger spindle?
tanks Gracias he descagado este .stl muchas gracis. Genio
Cześć jeden z niewielu komentarzy po Polsku ;-). Ostatnio miałem plan zbudować wzorowaną na twoim pomyśle frezarkę CNC. Jednak pomyślałem, że zmodyfikuję trochę plany ( inne długości elementów, i o drobinę inne kształty) i wtedy pomyślałem o end-switch'ach i odciągu wiórów. Akurat film jak znalazł, bo jestem w 3/4 projektowania maszyny i zacząłem uwzględniać te elementy. O odciągu myślałem podobnym do X-carve, budowanym między innymi przez Marius'a Hornberger'a, budowa jego nie była ultra trudna i proste montowanie na magnesy, więc do niego bym się skłaniał podczas projektowania. A jeżeli chodzi o wyłącznik awaryjny, to popieram opinię z komentarza poniżej, że dobrze by było wyłączać układ przez rozłączenie przewodu fazowego. A tak to świetna robota. Takie jeszcze pytanie- ile dałeś za wycięcie na laserze tych metalowych elementów montażowych ? To wszystko ode mnie trzymaj się :-)
Nikodem z tego co ja uczę się automatyki i budowy wszelakich maszyn przycisk bezpieczeństwa powinien być umieszczony na głównej lini zasilającej jakiekolwiek urządzenie. Trochę rozumiem dlaczego go założyłeś właśnie tam a nie w innym miejscu ale moim zdaniem aby w pełni spełniał swoje zadanie powinien po naciśnięciu przycisku przerywać przewód fazowy przed zasilaczem. Nawet we wszelkich normach jest napisane że przycisk ma chronić przed wszystkimi rodzajami zagrożeń elektrycznych a teraz wciskając go tak naprawdę tylko odłączone zostaną silnik, nie zabezpieczy on sytuacji w której zacznie ci się dziać coś niespodziewanego w całej skrzynce z elektroniką i teoretycznie gdyby tam się coś działo to osoba z zewnątrz widząc taki przycisk mogłaby go wcisnąć i myśleć że po sprawie ale tam niestety dalej będzie napięcie. Sory za ten przydługawy wywód i jeszcze po polsku a nie po angielsku ale łatwiej mi było to napisać w takiej formie i jasno i zrozumiale się wyrazić. P.S bardzo fajny materiał i ciekawe rozwinięcie projektu.
Very nicely done, I’m a CNC enthusiast and your work is phenomenal.
Personally I want to build my very own machine for my home workshop and I’m considering doing Indymill
Safety glasses, yo.
👍Bro
hi ..i try whit a diode laser but i have the pwm only enable....( change line on config in arduino),,and the laser and always on
Try adding a cyclone dust separator, it’ll extended the HEPA filter in your vacuum.
What is the material of the rails ?
Hi I love your design. Is there any reason it can't be expanded a little to cut up to 48" square?
Do you think that the x-axis gantry could cope with a 1220mm cutting width?
Spoko kanał, warsztat masz w piwnicy bloku, domu czy wynajęte pomieszczenie? szukam własnego miejsca na warsztat. Pozdro
Great video, my Indishield has arrived today, so your tip about the limit switch is perfect timing. Just ordering switch’s now! Thanks for sharing this build.
você é muito inteligente, se eu tivesse 1/4 da sua inteligência ficaria feliz, parabéns.
I messaged you on IG would you mind checking your inbox? thanks!
what is the longest you think it can be built before needing additional supports?
Fantastic project.
Could you please tell me what the maximum cut size is?
I was just about to model a limit switch holder like the one you used in the video. Thanks a lot, saved me a lot of time. Keep up with the great work! I learned a lot from you for my own cnc build. :)
Proponuję grzać rurki termokurczliwe lutownicą. Czasem jest to bardziej precyzyjne
vacuum shroud is a must
Try making a vacuum Pump for the INDY MILL...
Does anyone have a rough idea on the build cost if going through amazon?
Take your time. I plan to get V2 of Indyshield for my first build. Thanks!
Hi, have you try to cut alumminium with this splindle, nice video.
Muchísimas gracias a Ti. Por compartir todos tus conocimientos.
Hey, I was looking into the .dxf files and the "500W spindle plate" file, appears to be with wrong measurements (it shows over 2meters of size wich is very odd...) I'm building an Indymill myself and idk how to proceed
Change in setup conversion dxf your graphic program diameters inch to mm.
Awesome video - thanks for posting!
Nikodem pls, sorry to take you back your older build(Dremel cnc) I mistakenly ordered lead screws with 2mm lead instead of 8mm lead. Does using the 2mm lead for the X and y axis reduce the efficiency of the machine?
The lead screw size usually refers to the diameter. And 2mm leadscrew sounds unusaul. common are these 8 mm leads.
leadscrews are ususaully prefered to other transport systems as belts oder rack and pinows, as leadscrews are more precise,
especially those with ballnuts. google ballnut leadscrews. i am not sure if there is a real ballnut system on here. propably not.
BUT. its a known issue, that 8 mms tend to vibrate if they are longer than a meter or so. therefor some cncs have pulling mechanisms as the queenbee workbee. these put the longer screws under tension.
but "real cncs" in the nema 23 class generally favor ballnuts on leadscrews, generally at least 12mm or 16mm. And even 20mm is not uncommon.anyway, thats the real thing and litle more expensive.
i have not startet my projekt yet, i would not start below 16mm screw, 16 mm rails, actually 20 mm linearrails, if not 2 on each side of the x achsis.
and of cause 2 nema23 for the x. and 160x80 extrusions for y axis.
anyway. the broader belts of 10mm to 15 mm should be reliable enough and offer a cheap alternative.
sua cnc ficou da hora melhor do que a minha feita com corrediça de gaveta. kkkkkkkrrrrr
More great stuff. Thank you!
Thanks!
I've added limit switches (NC) but have trouble with interference from the spindle. Everything works fine: homing the three axis, then setting the Z depth with a sensor. But as soon as the spindle starts the Arduino will pick up a signal (spike) and the system goes in an Alarm. Maybe my spindle is producing more noise than others, I use the same as in the list (Machifit ER11 Chuck CNC 500W Spindle Motor). Tried different earth connections, but no solution.
I had the same problem. I turned off limit switch for work. Now limit switch works only when i use home axis. For safety i use software switch.
Yes, that is the (temporary) solution.
Here is how:
$21=1 (hard limits enable)
$22=1 (homing cycle enable)
$H (home)
G10 L20 P1 Y0 (workpos Y=0)
G10 L20 P1 X0 (workpos X=0)
$21=0 (hard limits disable)
$20=1 (soft limits on, set $130-132 for the size of your CNC)
Hi. Do you have the stl file for the limit switch mounts please ?
Hi, you can find it at indystry.cc/indymill together with other STL files and also on my GitHub: github.com/NikodemBartnik/IndyMill/blob/master/3D%20Printed/Limit%20switch%20holder.stl
@@nikodembartnik Thank you
Nice, maybe put a vacuum on it?
Cool video, thanks for it. Btw, where did you buy the spiral ball screw protections? Thanks! Continue your great job ;-)
He built them himself
@@bengoldberg8451 Yeah, I recognized that a few hours later ;)
can i contact u in personal plz?
redesign of the Z axis so it can swap to 3D printing!
Or a laser cutter!
Here I am again, congratulations again on the upgrades you are doing... I believe that soon you will also make an adapter to vacuum the shavings.
I wanted to ask you 2 other things:
1) if I want to mount a laser module instead of the spindle, beyond the fixing attachment to the Z axis, what would I need from an electronics point of view? I have seen ready-made 2 in 1 cnc (like the 3018) that have a control board other than Arduino as you used instead.
2) would it be possible to increase the height of the Z axis and integrate an extruder instead of the spindle for 3D printing? Or do you need to make other changes?
I hope you can answer me soon.
Keep it up!
Jesus saves
I think the e-stop should rather tell the controller to hold the current position and power off the spindle. Some other youtuber had issues where the rotating tool dug into the workpiece and yanked the gantry to the side, crashing into the machine limits. I think it was Winston Moy, but don't quote me on that.
Спасибо большое за проделанную работу и за то что делишься с нами полезной информацией. С меня подписка