Detailed instructions on how to install a new plywood deck onto a Triton ATV128, 3 place ATV trailer. The trailer also gets a new Cargo Box and Sports Rack.
Your welcome John. I made the video specifically to help someone like you who might need to replace their trailer deck. I've been aided on projects so many times by watching someones UA-cam video, I wanted to return the favor.
You can use dowel centers to mark the holes or a double headed nail with the top cut or ground off about 1/4 inch above the double head. The holes are 3/16 and the screws are 1/4 inch diameter Fastenal Wood to metal screws, you simply press the wood on the centers or nails and your holes are marked.
Thanks and you're welcome Steve. Likes are nice, but the video's purpose was to help anyone who is thinking about fixing their trailer. If it was helpful to you, I've met my goal.
My floor is still in very good shape even after hauling my building material so many times , but its just not strong enough for the motorcycle tie downs and chalks. I decided to line x the original floor and overlay it with slotted 1/4 alum sheeting. Then maybe the l tracking for my tie downs . It has been the best trailer for everything. I've even hauled 50 sheets of 12 ft drywall with it a couple of times, and it did fine, but I do know I was exceeding the weight limit. Great trailer.
In the video you mentioned that you didn't use marine plywood. Then at 4:15 you indicate that you used 1/2" AB Plywood. My google searches show this to be Marine plywood. Did I miss something? I'm curious what the cost was for the decking material alone.
Thank you for taking the time to post this video. I have the same trailer and just bought 4 sheets of 1/2”(actually 12mm) marine grade plywood to replace the deck. I want to use the same deck screws and tapped holes. Like you, I can use the old panels as templates for the placement of the pilot holes on the new panels. Do you remember what size bit and counter sink you used to drill the pilot holes?
You're welcome C G. My countersink bits have long lost their size engravings, so to make the selection I just held one of the bolt heads next to different sizes and chose one that would match the head width and flare. The pilot bit of the one I chose was too small and just served to drill a through hole. I enlarged the holes later to accommodate the bolt. To get the countersinks consistently true and to the right flush depth, I used my drill press with depth stop. I set up roller stands around the drill press and rotated the whole sheet around the spindle. Yes, I know, I've been called a perfectionist but I've never regretted the results of making the extra effort.
@@DanChanPiano I actually have a question about the cargo box. When turning the trailer and maneuvering it, how bad does the box affect it? Looking to do the same thing on my ATV88 Trailer.
@@Vader440 The weight of a load in the cargo box has little effect on its handling. If I'm towing the trailer with just a standard pickup truck, the trailer will follow the truck in its tightest turn (forward) without making contact and you would really have to crank a sever angle in reverse to make it jackknife and make contact with the back of the truck. However with my rear overhanging camper on and cargo boxed trailer attached, I can still make the tightest forward turn safely but can easily jackknife the trailer in reverse. As a matter of fact one corner of the cargo box is now dented from such a maneuver.
I have to say that answering this question is way above my pay grade. Is there copper in plywood? Seems unlikely. Doesn't galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals require electrical contact and electrolytes? All this seems far fetched.
@@DanChanPiano from everything I'm reading about these trailers you can't use run of the mill plywood because they are preserved with copper but just as you say it's above my pay grade as well I just don't want my trailer to fall apart hauling 3 ATVs at 80mph but I think I have found reasonably priced wood for my trailer even says it is safe to use with aluminum thanks for your time www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/plywood-sheathing/4-x-8-ac2-reg-pressure-treated-ag-ccx-plywood/1235090/p-1444422740226.htm
@@suicidaljell Thanks back at you. Well, you can learn something every day. Copper naphthenate is a common wood preservative. Hey the Menards link you provided is for 3/4" ply MicroPro treated sheets. The slots on the Triton will only accept 1/2". However, I did consider using 3/4" and routing the edges down to 1/2" to benefit from a thicker deck. All in all the 1/2" is nice and strong in its new state. A friend said he might re-deck his with diamond plate steel and skip a wood deck altogether, but after pricing what that would cost I quickly settled for wood.
I am going to tackle this exact same trailer that I own in the spring ! Thank you for the time and effort to make this super informative video!!!!
You're welcome Erik and I'm glad the video will help you! Great to get positive feedback as it makes the work put in worth the effort.
I have the same trailer. The deck replacement segment was of particular interest to me. Thank you for taking the time to make and post this.
Your welcome John. I made the video specifically to help someone like you who might need to replace their trailer deck. I've been aided on projects so many times by watching someones UA-cam video, I wanted to return the favor.
You can use dowel centers to mark the holes or a double headed nail with the top cut or ground off about 1/4 inch above the double head. The holes are 3/16 and the screws are 1/4 inch diameter Fastenal Wood to metal screws, you simply press the wood on the centers or nails and your holes are marked.
nice work.
This video deserves way more likes. Fantastic, thank you for taking the time to do this.
Thanks and you're welcome Steve. Likes are nice, but the video's purpose was to help anyone who is thinking about fixing their trailer. If it was helpful to you, I've met my goal.
My floor is still in very good shape even after hauling my building material so many times , but its just not strong enough for the motorcycle tie downs and chalks. I decided to line x the original floor and overlay it with slotted 1/4 alum sheeting. Then maybe the l tracking for my tie downs . It has been the best trailer for everything. I've even hauled 50 sheets of 12 ft drywall with it a couple of times, and it did fine, but I do know I was exceeding the weight limit. Great trailer.
Thank you! This video has been so helpful to me!
Good video Mr. Chan.
Thanks Tom!
In the video you mentioned that you didn't use marine plywood. Then at 4:15 you indicate that you used 1/2" AB Plywood. My google searches show this to be Marine plywood. Did I miss something? I'm curious what the cost was for the decking material alone.
Thank you for taking the time to post this video. I have the same trailer and just bought 4 sheets of 1/2”(actually 12mm) marine grade plywood to replace the deck. I want to use the same deck screws and tapped holes. Like you, I can use the old panels as templates for the placement of the pilot holes on the new panels. Do you remember what size bit and counter sink you used to drill the pilot holes?
You're welcome C G. My countersink bits have long lost their size engravings, so to make the selection I just held one of the bolt heads next to different sizes and chose one that would match the head width and flare. The pilot bit of the one I chose was too small and just served to drill a through hole. I enlarged the holes later to accommodate the bolt. To get the countersinks consistently true and to the right flush depth, I used my drill press with depth stop. I set up roller stands around the drill press and rotated the whole sheet around the spindle. Yes, I know, I've been called a perfectionist but I've never regretted the results of making the extra effort.
Perfect video.
I hope it was of some value to you. Thanks.
@@DanChanPiano I actually have a question about the cargo box. When turning the trailer and maneuvering it, how bad does the box affect it? Looking to do the same thing on my ATV88 Trailer.
@@Vader440 The weight of a load in the cargo box has little effect on its handling. If I'm towing the trailer with just a standard pickup truck, the trailer will follow the truck in its tightest turn (forward) without making contact and you would really have to crank a sever angle in reverse to make it jackknife and make contact with the back of the truck. However with my rear overhanging camper on and cargo boxed trailer attached, I can still make the tightest forward turn safely but can easily jackknife the trailer in reverse. As a matter of fact one corner of the cargo box is now dented from such a maneuver.
What size did you cut the plywood I don’t think you mentioned it or did I miss it?
I had the advantage of having intact old panels to use as templates as shown at 6:06, so I never measured.
Is sealer on the new plywood sufficient to prevent gavanic corosion between the copper in the plywood and the aluminum of the trailer?
I have to say that answering this question is way above my pay grade. Is there copper in plywood? Seems unlikely. Doesn't galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals require electrical contact and electrolytes? All this seems far fetched.
@@DanChanPiano from everything I'm reading about these trailers you can't use run of the mill plywood because they are preserved with copper but just as you say it's above my pay grade as well I just don't want my trailer to fall apart hauling 3 ATVs at 80mph but I think I have found reasonably priced wood for my trailer even says it is safe to use with aluminum thanks for your time www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/plywood-sheathing/4-x-8-ac2-reg-pressure-treated-ag-ccx-plywood/1235090/p-1444422740226.htm
@@suicidaljell Thanks back at you. Well, you can learn something every day. Copper naphthenate is a common wood preservative. Hey the Menards link you provided is for 3/4" ply MicroPro treated sheets. The slots on the Triton will only accept 1/2". However, I did consider using 3/4" and routing the edges down to 1/2" to benefit from a thicker deck. All in all the 1/2" is nice and strong in its new state. A friend said he might re-deck his with diamond plate steel and skip a wood deck altogether, but after pricing what that would cost I quickly settled for wood.
@@suicidaljell I was trying to locate on that Menards link where it shows to safe with aluminum.