OIL PRESSURE GAUGE FLUCTUATING
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- Опубліковано 26 чер 2012
- This video shows my oil gauge bouncing up and down while driving through your typical city. The car sat from the Halloween snow storm until January of this year when the transmission went. It's running pretty nice, but the oil pressure gauge is doing this now. I dropped the pan over the weekend and cleaned out all the gunk and build up and replaced the oil pan gasket, filter, oil pan plug, and oil. The gauge doesn't do this until the car warms up. On the highway the pressure stays up where it's supposed to be. It doesn't start bouncing around until I am driving around in the city neighborhoods going at lower speeds.
Also, you will see in the video when I shifted from park into reverse the battery gauge drops as well as bounces when I have the blinker on. This is another problem I am working on, but I am not sure why it is doing it, so I have no idea where to begin at the moment. - Авто та транспорт
As a Chevrolet long time shop foreman, I completely agree with Short Flame. Engine oil pressure changes with engine RPM. Simple as that. I can never understand why people have a problem understanding this. An engine oil pump RPM is directly connected to engine RPM. Therefore, the pump produces lower pressure at lower engine RPM and higher pressure at higher engine RPM There is a relief valve in the pump that will limit the pressure. This is sort of like saying; I have a problem with my tachometer. It reads higher when I increase engine speed and lower when I return it to idle. I hope this helps you understand. And yes, it's completely normal for oil pressure to fluctuate this much.
Hey, question for you..
I have a GM Yukon XL.
I have been driving it for two years with steady oil pressure once warm, no fluctuation at all.
All of a sudden, once warm, it will go up to normal range while driving but when stopped it drops significantly.
Whhhhhhhhhhhhhhy?
Steam4ever
hi could u help me ...
when in drive mode my oil gauge steady ... it steady even when i hit maximum my accelerator pedal
but
when in neutral position my oil gauge fluctuating increase or decrease same with my accelerator pedal...
Mine often varies bye one degree hotter or cooler after a oil change not to hot or cold always wonder why new oil did this or just my car.
Candice Wylde Jesus seems like its very common with the Yukon
I have one and guess what... same issue
All the vehicles I've had I. The oil gauge DID NOT MOVE
Mine started out just like yours before it starting bouncing all over. I installed a new oil sender unit and all is good now. 03 Chevy Silverado Oil Pressure Gauge Fluctuating
I’m sure this long resolved or the car died but we have a suburban that just started doing this about a week ago. Been driving it for 6 years and it’s pressure always stayed constant 60 when idling, driving at slow speed and driving at highway speeds. Some folks recommend the oil sensor aka sender, and some other videos I found show a filter beneath that to change as well. Will give that a shot. Thanks for posting this
My 90 gmc is doing this and leaking oil, I know my truck and the gauge is moving like yours it's not normal..thanks for the tip
Oil pressure is created as the engine turns over. So, as the engine slows down, aka letting off the gas, the oil pressure drops. If you accelerate hard, you will see that it will rise the oil pressure. Your car has no problems regarding oil pressure. All the oil pump does is pull the oil out of the pan and pump it into the engine. The engine turning over faster or slower creates the oil pressure.
Yo bro
@isin, there actually was an oil leak. I could not find where it was coming from until I finally replaced the sending unit. Now, the gauge still moves as it should, just not like in this video. This video shows it moving too much, despite what others may say.
This is completely normal man, nothing to worry about.
Did you get to the bottom of this? Mine started this the other day, your video shows exactly what mine is doing. i've replaced the sensor to no avail. I plan on checking the pump and screen before i dive in to the gauge or electrical.
This is very normal! My 04 chevy does the same thing even with a new oil pressure sensor.
It's typical of a badass engine 😆
normal?
Completely normal. LOL
My oil pressure was steady... I changed the oil and filter and now the oil pressure does exactly the same As this guys car in the video.. happened the first start after the oil change.
I have a 2002 Silverado and at startup I get a little ticking but the oil pressure shows it's well above 80 . Did oil changes and still the same thing but I noticed if I race the engine a little it quits down but then I notice the pressure gage starts to bounce a bit. The motor gets quit but starts to tick again ... something tells me I might have a bad sending unit or a bad oil pump. what do you think ?
Just bought a 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 two weeks ago and just recently it started not going past 30 mph for a few minutes and then it would accelerate like normal. The oil gauge goes below 40 and above 40 when it starts hesitating. Could this be the sending unit or alternator? It has a rough start after the first time of starting it up in the mid morning.
It's like this oil cold is much thicker, as it warms it thins out. So cold start higher oil psi and hot lower. Then think of a oil pump as a turbo or any other kind of pump. Faster the speed of the pump more psi it creates. I realize u have solved this issue but this is just some more info for anyone who would like to know.
thank you
Found this video through the forum, thank you for posting. I drive an 89 bonneville, original owner. Very well maintained. Just noticed fluctuation in my oil pressure, which is not normal behavior on this car. Engine sounded very loud, noticed the pressure rise to 80, then back to 40. Parked, went to store, came back out to car, headed home. At 40mph, car completely lost power. All dash warning lights came on. Was able to activate hazard lights. Waited a few minutes, tried to turn over engine, completely dead, no lights, nothing. Waited a few more mnutes, it started up, pressure close to 80, dropped off at mechanic. Hope it's the sending unit, as I've not had issue with that component before. If it's the alternator, I've got a lifetime warranty on that. As a side note, I've changed out the alternator about 4 or 5 times in this vehicle. Too much draw with all the bells and whistles on this car. I truly love my Bonneville SSE. It's a great car.
mickyunit I have an 89 Bonneville SE and the same exact thing is happening to mine. What was the problem with yours? It may be able to help me with mine. (This is my only car and it has done this and shut off on me with my 2 kids in the car a few times). Please help!
This makes sense, as of now it's showing definite signs of electrical issues... Sometimes indicators on the dash don't work at all... (Biggest example of this being RPMs seem to immediately bottom out -according to the gauge indicator- but engine still running) .... Something new. But other times, shuts off without warning... Very seldom, sputtering first.
Definitely has oil (obviously) unless there's an obstruction I'm not aware of
Is there a bigger prob that can cause errors in the Sending Unit.. Or make it go bad?
So was it the sending unit and did replacing it fix the problem?
I have the same problem with my lights when I turn them off it gets dark when I turn them on it gets light should I burn my house down LOL could be filter oil temp or vis if it goes to zed then worry.
When you turn the garden hose on full blast do you get more water pressure and when you turn the faucet down do you get less water pressure? Same thing.
I changed oil pressure switch, and oil return screen mine works fine now
Evryone says that I have it does nothing guys
I just installed some Boush Mechanical gauges to my 283 Chevy Sm Block, it has 37 pounds of pressure at start up at 1500 Rpm, Book say should be 38 Pounds at 1500 Rpm. But after warm up, it drops to like 20 pounds?
The reason I found your video is because I have a similar problem, but mine fluctuates (very noticeably) at steady idle. However your situation looks very normal. There are two types of sending units. One sends variable signal (the higher rpm, the higher the oil pressure (up to the upper limit of the oil pressure regulator)), and the other is basically an on/off switch (on when it's at or above a certain pressure, off if it's below). This looks very normal. If you changed the sending unit and it's now steady, that means you got an on/off sending unit installed. As far the drop in voltage goes, that looks like an alternator/wiring problem. It should never drop that low unless there's a short and/or a lose wire (the one that activates the alternator). (Oh and the word is spelled "gypped" - comes from the word gypsies (or at least that's how I remember it))
Thanks
cagerat, I have the same problem as you. My oil pressure gauge fluctuates rapidly and goes all the way around! How did you fix yours?
I just changed my oil and before the needle was at 45 , got the car back and it's at 90 is that normal, never had the needle up there.
I have an 02 jeep grand Cherokee I've replaced the oil pressure sensor twice and it still goes from about 10 to 40. My oil is full and it just had a oil change about 2 weeks ago, should I be worried?
I figured it had to do with the engine but before my gauge use to be right at 40 and would go up to 80, now the pressure drops below 20 and barely hits the 40 mark is, still the same or is there something I need to check ,(05 chevy avalanche)
Did you solved this problem issue ? what caused this problem ? My chevy 98 started doing this on warm engine, normaly on idling when i park. THX
Normal if you have a actual oil pressure gauge. On my 1991 f150 it has a dummy gauge that generally will stay in the normal range in the middle and if it doesn't it usually is a bad sending unit.
I had a similar issue in my '08. I believe his problem is that when he changed his oil last he must have accidentally switched his oil guage wire with his throttle wire so its acting as a speedometer now. I hope this helps!
What? Make that make sense. The gauge is doing what it's supposed to do.
what was the problem? mine dropped to 0 and wont come back up..... randomly.
my truck ford ranger xlt the gage goes left and right when im driving, what is that suppose to mean? can you help? thanks
when I hit the gas it goes all the way to 80 and if I keep driving it will cut off.... what does it mean when I hit the brake it goes down
We have 2008 Chevy Avalanche LTZ 1500 with a 5.3 V8 and our battery gage goes 15-14-13 and it did it again today what should we do should we fix it or leave it?
Is there a point here? Can we expect future videos on the tachometer & speedometer too? Maybe a long one for the fuel gauge too? How about how the brake lights come on when you push the brake pedal?
What year Bonneville is that? If you've got the recommended 5W-30 or 10W-30 oil in that 3800 Series II, you should have at least 30 psi at idle, and at least 60 psi at 1850 RPM (at operating temperature).
That in-car gauge isn't known for its accuracy. You should verify with a mechanical gauge if possible.
My 1996 C1500 Z71 oil pressure has always been steady at a little bit to the right of the straight up position for the last 16 years until recently. Now it fluctuates like it does in this video. I came here looking for advise, but it sounds like it's fine. Just strange that it only started recently.
Chris Gross I am on the same boat. is your still fluctuating? mine is getting pretty low at idle, stop lights and such. and bounces back up and settles a little during acceleration. like you, it just started happening. how are you running 2 months later? thanks.
Vantastic Voyage mine does that now too. How’s yours holding up?
I'm interested in knowing how it is holding up too or did you find an issue with the oil pump?
Engine oil pump screen is a tube with filter on end like a watering pot .it pulls oil up into engine
This can't be normal.
My truck wasn't doing that until now.
A few days ago one of the cooling connectors cracked. I started having over heating issues. Then the oil meter started doing this outa nowhere.
It has to be something.
Your oil pressure should be about 10psi/1000rpm as a good rule of thumb. I'd put lighter oil in it to get better oil flow since your pressure is plenty high. The reason it never goes above 70psi is because of the pressure relief valve. At that point your oil flow doesn't increase. Flow = lubrication NOT pressure as some people think.
Lol man people are misinformed about oil pressure, my 81 C10 had like 23 psi at 60mph and maybe 10 at idle, ran for like 8 years like that, I sold it and its still running
Pretty normal. Most engines only require 10psi per 1k rpm. You had pretty good pressure
the oil sending unit have a tampered thread.. someone probably tried to torque it down when installing the last one if you had a drip leak there.
You are the kind of customer every mechanic loves to rip off lol
Engine oil pump screen gets clogged people always think its bearings going bad ,change it or boil it put back on
This is normal and it is supposed to do this, especially in older vehicles that is. If your oil pressure does stay steady, it's a sign of engine wear and tare. My 87 f150 had a steady and low-ish oil pressure which dropped dramatically after warming up. It also has an oil leak (rear main). When we changed the oil, we used 10w40 instead of 10w30 and tightened all of the oil pan bolts and the pressure went up and started fluctuating as it should. so if anything, this isn't necessarily a problem, but more of a solution.
On the other hand, your voltage gauge is a different story. Your battery or alternator might be acting up and I'd have that looked at.
Its supposed to move if it didn't then worry all that means is your oil is moving through your engine my 2007 Chevy trailblazer does the same thing now if it almost touches the red then that means your pressure is too high but where its at now is fine
Billy Huskey i have the same 2007 trailblazer&my needle goes all the way to the red then up a little past half when driving & in park & check engine light is on. Just started doing this about 2-3weeks ago. Any suggestions? Oh & when i roll up my windows & theyr all the way up my headlights get dim & then bright when i let off the button.
hello
is normal in red zone???
So your problem is you have normal oil pressure. Pressure should fluctuate w/ RPM downstream of a positive displacement gear pump w/ proper bearing clearances and oil viscosity.
If you want to optimize, use viscosity oil which will produce pressure just under pump relief valve setting at red line. If viscosity too high, some oil will bypass engine every time rpm is high; wasting fuel and power. If viscosity to low then too much will leak past looser bearings; robbing tighter galleys of flow.
Totally normal, I have never seen an engine not do this
Thats normal and the gauge is just moving fast because of the type of gauge some gauges slowly go up some are faster your oil pressure is in a safe range so its fine
I have a similar problem on my 94 ssei
my oil pressure maxes out when I start the car and maybe 2 minutes later the gauge will go CRAZY it bounces around from 40 and 120 like 3 times a second and then when the car is fully warmed up it stays right at 60 psi
This do my Tahoe 98 until today...today on idling on park with warm engine .... pressure gauge shows some decreasing and go to normal, decreasing and go to normal, but before it was only on cold start, never on warm engine on idling
my 2000 dodge dakota is doing the same thing. I got a code coming up for a Govenor Pressure Sensor around the same time. would the Sensor cause the oil fluctuating?
Dylan Pitt
My 2000 dodge Dakota is also doing this... Oil pressure jumping from 40 to 50 when I start driving... Got me worried. Did you figure it out?
that's normal
might need to change oil or the pump or gauge.
Engine speed verses oil pressure have always been relative to each other. now the thicker the oil " viscosity" and temperature are also relative to each other. the thicker or colder the oil the higher the oil pressure and vise versa. if you hooked up a mechanical gauge not an electric one, you would see the oil gauge all over the place related to engine rpm. nothing to worry about. just as long as it stays above 15 + or - a couple psi.
This absolutely 100% normal to fluctuate from 40psi to around 70psi between giving gas and not...
I second this
My truck run at 10-15 when idling then goes to 25 when driving. is the idle pressure to low or is that somewhat normal? Please someone respond asap
Mirandap 10psi for every 1000 rpm
The oil pressure will change as your driving, but I'm not sure it would fluctuate that much. As the voltmeter fluctuation, I'm no electrician. Can't give an opinion there.
AJ, my 1995 Silverado 2500 is doing the exact same thing fluctuating while driving, I also have an oil leak in the area of the sending unit. just can't pinpoint it to the unit. Did you have a leak in that area as well??
Check this group out. I have been a member for a few years now, and it's strictly for Bonneville's. They can help you with just about anything. They have saved me tons of money during my rebuild. www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/index.php
I replied last week but I guess it did not link to your comment. Here is what my comment said. "There actually was an oil leak. I could not find where it was coming from until I finally replaced the sending unit. Now, the gauge still moves as it should, just not like in this video. This video shows it moving too much, despite what others may say."
perfectly normal. My vette idles at 47lbs. when warmed up and goes to 60lbs when rpms go up. That's what they are supposed to do. Perfectly normal.
You got gipped for the cost of a oil sending unit and labor. This is completely normal. 40 psi is the normal when the car is idling and the more the rpms rev up the higher the oil pressure is going to go. Now for the battery to drop like that when shifting gears is not normal and needs some attention " maybe a loose connection on the battery?"
If I got I gipped, explain to me why the massive up/down of pressure is now normal after replacing the sending unit and oil pan gasket? I did it myself, so I don't think I really got gipped at all. While doing the work, which needed to be done anyway, I did find an oil leak, a very small one, but I did find one. That could have been the issue as well, but either way, it's fine now.
I have the same problem on my 2002 ford ranger. My fluctuating occurs much faster than yours. After research it could be
1.bad sending unit
2. low on oil
Im planning on replacing the sending unit and hope that it fixes it.
Did replacing the sending unit fix the problem?
I didn't get ripped, since I did it myself. I did find out this was normal, but I had a bad sending until anyway, so I replaced it. As far as the electrical issue goes, I'll figure that out after I find out if the vehicle is totalled since I crashed it in the snow storm the other night.
Aj Montague what
Everyone here needs to back off about the RPM's while it is true it fluctuates a little that isn't his issue. I am a ASE cert. mech on imports and domestic and as crazy as this sounds it is the alternator. Watch both of the gauges they fluctuate the same. As the rpm's increase so does your belt speed and so does your alternator. There are resistors in the alternator that absorb this normally and you don't see your voltage going up and down but when it goes bad you do. The way the sending unit works is it takes oil pressure and converts it to a analog output or an electrical output when your voltage is spiking around it causes that tiny signal from your sending unit to bounce around. If it is internal engine problems the gauge would get hot and stay hot, if its a sending unit alone it would read one way or another. Unless you have abnormal engine noise ie rocker arm ticks or anything like that, start with replacing the sending unit (40-60 bucks) because it is the cheapest and if that don't get it then replace your alternator buddy and you should be good to go.
I didn't see this comment, but you could be right about something. After changing the oil sending unit, the issue was resolved for the most part, however, the A/C compressor does not work but the serpentine belt still pulls on it, obviously. I never even thought about belt speed.
+Brandon Ottinger will it be the same thing on a 93 chevy 4.3 v6 tbi mine fluctuates it drops almost to zero when you hit the brakes and then when you hit the gas it goes back up and idle goes up and down with the gauge
Oh we got a smart ass here that thinks he knows everything
Joshua Wood I've got 93 and mine does that too
Brandon Ottinger mine gets way low during idle at stop lights and such. just started happening. you are saying it is normal to be fluctuating all of the sudden?
thank you
What happens What that ?
And the loosing power thing could mean your alternator is going bad
My gas hang does this but goes back up to the right position once completely stopped 😂😂
my brothers 2000 2.2l s10 goes like 20 on the oil pressure gauge then up to like 70 can someone help me out
oil pressure varies under different throttle positions. Looks normal to me.
Stay tuned, he's releasing another video that shows when he goes faster the speedometer points to different numbers.😂
I have a chevy pick up truck and I just noticed my oil gauge going from 40 to 35 and it got me a little worried. This has never happened before, or I never noticed it before. I checked my oil and it is full and clean. Could it be the oil filter or the oil pump? Can someone let me know?
This was my oil sending unit. At least when I replaced it, it stopped doing this.
Alternator!!!! Fixed this in 4 vehicles in my life.
Yes I came here to look for an answer to my problem because mine was just the oil pressure gauge. As soon as I saw his battery meter fluctuation when he turned on the blinker I knew it was the alternator. I had mine tested a couple of days ago an know I need a new one. So I am pretty sure that my problem is the same and now I notice a very subtle fluctuation in my voltage as well.
It a temperature switch I have a 5.7 hemi I call dealership
Oil pressure sensor sucking air, cracked, old, found your video because my tahoe was doing the same thing!! Changed it ....NOW my pressure is 60 at idle and and moves even more when going 60mph... TO HIGH!!!! It does not go to 80 psi tho 🤔....change the filter without draining pan and found little lesser then normal amount of oil in filter.. 🤔 thinking it’s a clog ....as if I’m thinking right the sensor had separated at the base and maybe suck a lot of dirt and sludge into the system...as the truck also has 200k on it and who knows how long it was riding with a bad sensor...no check engine light tho and yes the check engine light does work as that’s the first thing I check when purchasing a car and it illuminates as it shoulda and goes off when u turn the key.. When I changed the oil when I got it two days ago I dumped some stp oil treatment crap in with the new oil ... thinking this may have made it’s way around the cracks and loose areas mixing with the new oil causeing the pressure to rise( thick Shit) ..gonna run it 1000 miles as it was “designed” to break up the sludge..then dump it agin and just fill it up regular....but here’s the thing I bought the truck and it’s lifted with bad as big wheels with a lot of aftermarket parts on thinking maybe it could have a high pressure pump on it (long maybe) because when I took the connecter to the new sensor off and turned the key it didn’t pin at 80psi but wayyyyyyyyyy past like it’s been messed and with the key out door open it stops at 20psi not bottom to zero....if I remember I used that STP BULLSHTT before on a different Tahoe and the pressure shot up.. I also only used 5 quarts of oil not 6 and then added the STP... I don’t know we will see what happens when I drop the oil again in a couple days.. can high steady oil pressure HURT your engine??
What is not normal, is to think that this is not normal 😂😂😂
Mine's not the oil pressure gauge but the tire gauge. I guess I'll have to buy a new one I guess either from Michelin or Mountaincrest Digital Tire Gauge. Dzzzzzz. Thanks for the vid anyways.
That's actually normal cause whenever you rev it up the oil pressure increases so yeah :P
I just had a head gasket replaced. Now when I drop speed to idle, the oil pressure gauge drops to 20. It then climbs to 40 when I accelerate. It never climbs above 40. I don't recall this car ever dropping below 40.
If a Oil pressure switch is bad would your car idel bad, stall engine when putting it into gear?
I am not a mechanic, so I cannot answer that question. I just know how to fix things when something goes wrong. Wish I could help. Sorry! Maybe someone commenting in here can help. I belong to a Bonneville group which is awesome. The guys on there have helped me a lot. If you have a Bonneville, check it out. www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/index.php
You don't have an OP issue at all. OP's run off of the crankshaft, as rpm increases/decreases so will the gauge. If it was fluxing at idle, then possibly there could be sign of something to look into. Make sure no oil leaks from the oil pan/valve cover gaskets. Sucking air can cause it to flux. If your did indeed dip to red zone which is 10psi, pop back to say 40ish, and move around you have problems. Don't create a problem when you don't have one. Understand when engine is cold pressure will be higher, til operating temperature is reached. Then will drop to what ever the spring length/elasticity. I have two 95 buick lesabres, start both cold they are the say around 55psi after thermostat opens to operating temp, one stays right at 40-42psi, the other will fall to 35-39ish and flux's a little. the difference is one that never flux's had oil cooler lines/cooler for the tow package therefore a stiffer spring/length. I know this as it finally died at 325K miles and the one I bought with 100K miles on it did the fluxing. In the manual it said it was ok for the OP light to come on as long as it went off. I am old school and that is never acceptable, don't give me the oil wave crap. I pressure tested both to eliminate the sending units, both engines had the same reading on test gauge, flipped sending units, problem did not follow, so flipped the springs and bingo, OP now stays never below 40psi at stop light/ in drive sitting. That is what it should be. You don't have an issue with the OP, although you do have possibly a battery issue. Get it checked to ensure it not a bad cell, then verify the alternator is producing 13.5+ volts, if not its the voltage regulator and/or the brushes. Brushes as they wear around the rotor can not always contact the rotor when fast RPM change at the alternator.
Mark S non
sucking air? my hoses were recently moved around. by friends mechanic. could this 'sucking air' also cause the oil pressure to be at zero and bouncing and your engine to start knocking?
did you find out why your battery gauge bounces when the blinker is on? I have the same problem and also when i turn on my lights.
I have a 2002 Pontiac Bonneville when I started it the rpm is at 60 and when I the temperature go 200 the rpm drop to 0 until I stop or cut the car off .can somebody please tell me what that means and I also have two thousand miles on it. Not a supercharger just Wrangler 3.8 Pontiac Bonneville
YOU MAY HAVE A BAD SENSOR UNLESS YOUR WATER PUMP IS BAD. ALSO CHECK YOUR THERMOSTAT
Looks normal but at the same time the charging system seems like ur having a slight issue too.
Not sure the miles on the engine but maybe the Oil is the wrong grade....and not sure the oil filter microns but pressure is pretty much back pressure / restriction......maybe try a new oil filter.
or I just might be totally wrong and its just normal.... a lot of factors in this.
of just a bad sending unit sensor....
Normal
Alguien sabe por q se prende la check gauge a una Ford f150 2007
That should be normal, I've seen it in brand new gmc trucks
boy wish my 1997 350 chev vortec with 16k miles would do the oil pressure like that. When I crank mine oil pressure will whole 55 easy, put in gear BAM falls not to zero but to the right side of gauge, stays at bottom on right side of gauge until I stop at red light then comes up to 40 to 45 no problem and will jump up down so fast looks like it is spinning. A new electrical problem has happened to my truck. When driving on cruise turn lights on well cruise turns off. This truck is an electrical night mare. Rear lights will go out , all of them, then come back on a few miles down the road, hope not dark when driving, Solved brake light problem by installing a new brake light system, not part of truck brake lights, now all rear lights except brake lights on truck work right, flashers and turn signals work great. Are truck brake lights and turn signals and flashers using same bulbs and wiring going to rear from cab ???
You sure you're not just looking at it at cold now you did all the work? There's nothing wrong with the readings its displaying but I guess its good you fixed your oil leak.
Actually, I was not sure, which is why I posted the video. I am sure it was normal temperature, though. Thanks for looking at the video. I guess I should have wrote an essay about my expertise with mechanical skills. Either way, it was not normal. The gauge should not jump THAT much, know what I'm saying? I know it fluctuates, but it shouldn't as much as it was. I did fix the problem, though. Thanks for viewing the video.
If its 120 and you notice driveability problems then you have a problem or if you are at 0 with idle and driveability problems then you have an oil pump problem
Lmaoooo because the oil pressure increases if the RPMs increase. Less RPM less oil pressure
Okay i am having this exact issue in my 97 dodge 1500 rn! But my oil pressure gague stayes at about 40 at all times. When i co.e to a stop like this guy was my oil pressure gauge bottoms out them jumps back up to 40. Sometimes it fluctuates just over 40 aswell. Idk if its the same issue or not.
Check your blinker fluid it might be low...
I did , it's on full.....so?😁
1998 E250 alternator new battery new but not keeping charge
check your ground cables, its more likely that your ground wires aren't secured much. this same thing happened to my friends 2002 or 2003 ford taurus. if its not your ground then check your grounds leading to your starter. it may be that the leading ground cords on the starter are fried and/or your starter is malfunctioning.
To those who think this is stupid: imagine that you've been driving a car for years, and the oil pressure gauge has stayed right about 40. Then you start seeing it fluctuate. Considering the downside of going "Oh. DUH. It's OK" and keep driving, I fully support asking. Just be aware that when you do, people will call you a moron and so on. Ignore them.
In my case, I saw it drop to zero for the first time today, but comes back up as I rev the engine. So, I'm researching it, because I don't WANT to blow my engine.
My trucks oil pressure just started bottoming out. Never did it before.
Thats normal 40 for idling engine and 60 on high speed max pressure low pressure than 40 you have problem on oil pump gasket but sometime pressure switch more cheaper labor if not pressure switch oil pump gasket
when I hit the gas it goes all the way to 80 mines only go up to 80 and if I keep hitting the gas it will cut off. if I let go of the gas or brake it will go down. someone please this is the only transportation I have...
If I were a mechanic, I would help you. I'm not sure what's happening.
the oil pump spins at the rate of your valve train / cam... there was nothing wrong with your opsu... if anything, the one you got probably isn't factory oem and reading inaccurately... at 200 degrees on your coolant temp/block, you probably have thinner oil at this point. 40-80 psi is a big fluctuation though.. and noticing your battery gauge fluctuating, I'm almost certain your original problem is in the cluster itself...
Thanks!
The only real solution to this problem is to buy a brand new 2018 Cadillac CTS-V. The Chairman of the board of GM herself told me so.
No. No my Bonneville started like yours i changed the pressure sensor ,Alternator and clean out the oil pan and replaced the strainer that absorbs the oil and it worked good for two day now you could time it exactly 15 min and oil pressure starts to drop slowly to red and astupid chime starts its annoying sound .. not fixed
Normal!
perfectly normal cuz pressure drop/rise due to low/high rpm .
I have a similar problem... when I fill up my gas tank it shows full,,, But after I drive it all day the gauge is closer to empty.... wtf is up with that
:)
Replace your gas gauge sending unit. Oh, and don't forget to put gas in there after a few hundred miles. Things are going to be better, I can just feel it.
Hummm.. I would say keep a second set of hands on an external gas tank. As you're driving and you notice the needle dropping, have someone hang off the side of the car pouring in additional fuel till the guage goes back up. Repeat process as needed.
My 95 f150 has a solution.. 2 tanks biatch
Anyone mentioning that this is normal behavior is off base; the needle shouldn't move that drastically with changes in RPM. AJ also mentions that the oil sender unit was the cause; when this happens, it'll make all kinds of weird readings show up on the gauge.
Thank You! Besides, I was only asking for help because at the time of the video I didn't know what was wrong. I think a lot of it has to do with people just not reading the description in full, but just watching the video.
Aj Montague I can tell from the video that something's off; ain't no way that's normal behavior for the needle. Under normal conditions, it should only move slightly in any direction, and then only in smooth increments... that sucker's jerking all over like a crackhead. I wonder how many other people's sending units are off and they don't realize it.
Kevin Sanchez TheOnePlaywright is also me, btw; somehow I wound up on the second account by accident.
Too bad the vehicle is completely dead now. Need a lot of new things as of a month ago. Was in the process of rebuilding it and now I have to start from scratch.
Kevin Sanchez I'm sorry? Are you a mechanic?
Leaking oil is a problem, but a gauge that fluctuates too much is NOT an issue. those gauges are wildly inaccurate depending on which car you own, I know for a fact many late 90s chevys are 3 to 5 psi off as they age, taking a manual gauge and physically attaching it will yield accurate readings. That being said, aj, you wasted time and money to get a gauge to read a little more accurate.
looks to be totally normal