Keep it clean as best you can and you'll be able to spot any problem a mile a mile off. The beauty to a machine like that is it's a relativity simple machine compared to what they're producing today which means problems are easier to diagnose. Also the fewer the electronics the fewer the problems. Love it.
Came here bc the engine in my 1626 shuttle started intermittently knocking. Hubs added engine oil, it blew black smoke and died. And in the middle of that it didn't want to shut off w the key. And now bc we ha e paid it off early, we no longer have insurance on it so we get to pay out of pocket to fix it. And it will be next week before they can come out n get it.
I have a smaller Mahindra, a 38 hp. I have 500 hours on it and bought it new in 2020. My experience is that they are solid tractors as far as powertrain and hydraulics. They are horrible in regard to fit and finish. Fading paint, loose and missing bolts and screws, premature sensor failures. The service centers are also few and far between, but they were responsive and took care of the problems I encountered in a timely manner. All in all, I would buy one again. I love that the Mitsubishi engine on mine does not require regen.
Mahindra owner since 2002 and onto my second tractor now. Bullet proof engines and right to repair. Less electronic shit and less breakage. Value for money and better than over priced other brands
You would be surprised how close in price are most of the tractor brands. Personally if I'm spending $30K+ on a tractor I'm getting the most reliable tractor on the planet; Kubota. Also Mahindra lies about their "no DPF" technology called Mahindra mCRD. All they are doing is running the engine hot ALL THE TIME which makes the engine less efficient and burns more fuel.
@@nervousordo I get a different read on the Kubota larger tractors. I had a M135GX I bought at auction for a great price and thought about using it on my farm. However, seeing some design and engineering problems as described on the western truck and tractor repair channel I decided to sell it. The guy running the channel was very experienced in tractor repair. His basic opinion about larger Kubotas, having fixed several, was that they didn't have enough experience building larger tractors and their designs from a durability and repair standpoint were awful. ua-cam.com/video/ewqI2JjCkqU/v-deo.html
I have a mahindra 5555 and I fixed the stoped up fuel filter problem. You can run as much fuel as you want to. I just threw the one in the tank in the trash, and put an inline filter on it. Havn't had a problem yet and it will be easy to change, just cut the fuel off and change it. This is alot better than having to go into the fuel tank and drain too clean that very small filter.
Just bought a 4540 2021 model new. I love the tractor. Everything you said in this video is spot on. Especially the shifting. I appreciate the info. on possible future issues, and the informative comments. Thanks for posting.
Hey man we just got a 22 4540 with 11 hrs. When on hills I guess does yours grind when trying to put into gear? Is that normal? Been trying to double clutch every time I put in gear but still grinds sometimes. Do this have sinkros?
I turn the throttle all the way down before shifting. On my 4540 If I shift with the throttle set higher it will grind the gears. I don't have any hills. Hope this helps.@@sammyglo5354
I've had my tractor for 7 years and it even came with a CD with the owners manual, parts catalog, AND a service manual BUT it covers 3 different models and not all the diagrams and pictures match up with my tractor. It shows a diagram of grease and lubrication points but I know of at least double the number of grease fittings that the manual shows and just yesterday I found another grease fitting that I never knew about and have obviously never greased. I bought some bright yellow zerk fitting covers but they do get brittle if you leave your tractor outside a lot. If you grease your tractor like you SHOULD then you can probably remember where they all are but if you're like a lot of folks, it might help to just make a short list of how many and where those fittings are as a reference.
2013 Mahindra 4035 owner here and I confirm all of the first three issues. Unfortunately I didn’t catch the bolts in time and was down to one bolt on one side which cracked the steel plate mount. Luckily I’m good at welding, but it took a ton of time to get it fixed properly and when I reassembled I used blue loctite, however, the blue wasn’t enough and still loosens up. I now do the finger tightness check about once a month and have to retighten the bolts about once a year, though next time I’ll throw some red loctite on and see if it stops the loosening. One thing not mentioned in the video is that I also had the lug nuts loosen on one of my rear wheels, so again, check those even if it’s just by hand. For the dripping fuel, my Mahindra dealer confirmed it was a common issue and that Mahindra has since revised the part. Unfortunately you have to buy the whole assembly (metal line, valve, and hose). I replaced it and it’s been perfect since then. I haven’t ran into the clogged fuel (yet). My current issues: 4wd stopped engaging and I haven’t had time to work on it to figure out the cause. The other issue which has been happening for years is small oil leak(s?). It’s been very difficult to find where it’s coming from and it’s such a small amount I’m not worried about the fluid level, it just pisses me off having oil drips on my shop floor (I have OCD) that I have to clean up.
As for the fuel tank i would advise if it's not to expensive to get a new one that does not have the rubberiser on the inside. It will save you alot of problems.
I have a Max 22 hst for 10 years now. The only problem i have had is the hydraulic lines that are under the metal cover on the bucket cross support fraying and starting to leak. Removed and replaced, no problem. The rear signal lights are prone to damage and as a result I had to replace them. This was very easy and I was able to replace them with the exact same lights from my Princess Auto store. Very cheap. The only issue i have is that the OEM air filter is $109 cdn. A rip off for sure, as was the gas filter at $20 each. But given the low frequency on replacing them, not so bad in the grand scheme of ownership. Other than that, it's a solid machine and will upgrade one day or buy a second larger tractor.
I ran across your video and although I don't have the series tractor that you do we still have some of the same issues. I have a 2555 HST and it's just a piece of junk. At this point it is 6 years old, about 600 hours, and I can't even count how many times it's been in the shop. The first time it went in the shop it had 10 hours on it and the fuel lines connecting to the injectors were loose and blew 10 gallons of diesel all over the motor. It's been in the shop twice for a leaky seal at the PTO and it still leaks. I've had two hydraulic oil cooler radiators fail without any mechanical damage. The air conditioning has gone out twice and it's still not working. Twice now one of the pulleys locked up and sheared, it's a plastic pulley and the next time it goes we're going to replace it with the metal one. The radiator hose clamp was put on crooked and cut the hose blowing radiator fluid all over my engine. Now the belts squeal like a stuck pig. The battery that originally came with it only lasted 2 years and we had to replace all the battery cables as well because they were just crappy. One of the cables that connects the joystick to the hydraulic valve has broken twice. About 2 years after we got it it became difficult to start. After another couple of years of having a deal with it not wanting to turn over in cold weather at all even after installing a inline radiator heater, the starter finally quit. We went to Mahindra to inquire about a new starter and it was over $1,000. We took our starter to a shop here in town and he was able to find one for us for about $600. At one point we couldn't even get the tractor started at all because the hydrostatic pedal sensor or something was out of alignment and even though we don't have our foot on the pedal the tractor thought that it was and just would not start. It's just a really horrible design, when you have your fuel filter hanging below the frame on the tractor you're just asking for trouble. We kept puncturing the fuel filter and we finally got it knocked off the bracket accidentally but it was the best thing that could have happened to us because we just took some bailing wire folded it upside down and put it up above the frame so it's protected now. And just yesterday something in the front end four-wheel drive broke, it makes a horrible clattering sound and I'm really dreading this repair bill. We paid nearly $40,000 for this tractor and it was a piece of s*** from day one. I try to spread the word to anybody that is shopping for a tractor and I really try and steer them away from Mahindra.
My 2014 4025 had fuel line leaks. Dealer gave me new lines. They had a recall on the lines. Also had to replace the small fuel line under the seat last year.
On my loader bolts, I ended up drilling the heads enough to allow lock wire. I aircraft style locked all mounting bolts to each other so they would not vibrate loose. Special lock washers, lock tight did not help.
The torque spec will be based on bolt diameter and grade when clamping force is applied to metal components. You can look up standard torque for given bolt diameter.
@@TheHandsOnChannel you bet, thank you for sharing the results of your research. Also I would add if you ever want to remove those bolts to use the blue locktite. The red is meant for high heat applications and the only way to extract some of them with large surface area is by heating with a torch. Blue lucite is more than sufficient for any low temp large diameter bolt applications.
@@3dw3dw I used blue after mine backed out and they loosened again. I don’t have a torque wrench to properly measure the torque, but my Mahindra dealer said they just max out their 1/2” air impact when tightening and so I did the same. I have to retighten the bolts every year and the next time around I’ll be using red loctite to see if that works. As you mentioned, red is meant for permanent fastening, but in this case it’s needed.
I have a question. My implement lift quit working on my 4540 after I see iced the trans oil and filter loader works great. Have not been able to locate problem but think a relief valve is stuck open on the implement lift. It is not the lift speed control being shut off. Any suggestions
These loader bolts are mot necessarily installed at the Mahindra factory in India, they are fitted often in the country of purchase as they are options. Also many manufacturers stipulate tightening frame loader bolts after 1st use after delivery and this is just a part of routine maintenance due to the large forces placed on mounts, The tank has a small tubular filter underneath the fuel tank with a stop cock, this filter becomes clogged quite easily and often from the paint flakes from internals of tank. The Australian dealer I purchased my 60 hp Mahindra from advised just remove the plastic filter, the main diesel filters will easily deal with the debris, yes I did have that problem and did find flecks of a type of paint coating, after cleaning and replacing 3 times I just removed it , no problem since. Battery cables have been reduced in diameter on virtually all modern cars due to cost vigilence and in time resistances at connections and over length turning of starter motors slowly 'cooks' windings causing the demand for more amperage to turn them, The cables are not meaty enough to carry the current and the trick is to replace with larger diameter cables. Otherwise I have found my Mahindra tractor to be quite reliable and it does the job well, ps we have 2 reasonably new JX series Case tractors that have had early problems, both have had leaking rear main seals and required replacement clutches at less than 1000 hrs. Also have a 58 year old yard tractor starting and pulling as well as new, a David Brown 990, there is something about the build quality of these 50/60/ and 70's machines that has been lost IMO. Thanks for the Video!
Why change a design that has stood the test of time? At least with an old manual box you can jam it into some other gear. All these tractors with clutch packs and hydrostats are too complicated for what theyre doing. Not to mention how much they cost to repair
2013 Mahindra 4035 owner here and all three of these issues with mine too. Mine is even stored inside my shop when not in use except for a few rare occasions, yet the paint is still very faded. For the past two years the gauge doesn’t work for the first few minutes, then if I bump it with the palm of my hand it begins working.
My understanding on the fuel lines is that the fitting at the tank was either over crimped or under crimped at the factory. There was a TSB on the issue but it only addressed the smaller E-Max series which mine was not. My fuel line was part hard line and part soft line wrapped in a mesh hose protector that made it difficult to pinpoint the leak but it came from up high near the tank which is behind the dash on my model.
@@OShackHennessy Mine is a 6530. I didn't buy it from my local dealer but figured they would just send a field tech out to replace it. No dice. They wanted $100 each way for an 8 mile trip to haul it to their shop. I didn't have a trailer big enough at the time. I said well obviously the part is faulty and asked if they could give me the part and I'd bring the defective part back in when I swapped it out. They told me the regional rep would have to decide if it was warrantied or not so I'd have to remove it and bring it in and wait for him to decide, leaving me without a tractor until then. I left them with a few choice words. This kind of crap is why I didn't buy from my local dealer to begin with but it put me in a position of making my own repairs which is fine. I have all the service manuals.
@@zaappp1588 I like to do my own repairs when possible but I’ll still require professional assistance at times. Check for local hotshot guys I have a guy here who picked up my tractor 3 hours away for $600. The price he quoted for taking it to my local dealer here in town was “oh just give me a case of beer”. 😂
@@OShackHennessy I've got a gooseneck now but a case of beer is a pretty good deal. I bought my tractor from a dealer out of state that was 7.5 hours away back when diesel was cheap. The dealer found the driver and had it delivered for $650. Another dealer wanted $2000.
The problem with the fuel leak is poor quality hoses. Inside the tank has rubberiser of poor quality and mixed with fuel the rubber startes to desintegrate and it clogs up your fuel filter and eventually your injectors, and the seals are of very poor quality.
Bought a 1640 with just a few hours on it. 3 point is crazy jerky when lifting. Smooth going down. Lowest idle and after warming up as well as cold. Any suggestions?
I'm guessing here but it could be low on hydraulic fluid or maybe the hydro filter is clogged. Mine has a knob below the seat that controls the speed of the 3 point, you might need to open the knob up a little bit. Let us know what you find out, good luck.
I'm having an issue getting mine out of low gear. I have a mahindra 4025 with a LH lever on the floor to the left of my shifter. I put it into low (while it wasnt running) and now I can't get it into high. Is there a trick to it? Any suggestions?
Will it start? If so, I would try to run it and see if going forward and reverse frees it up. I heard of a guy that had his trans stick in gear and he had to get a rubber mallet to free it up. Another guy had to take the top of the trans off and he was able to free up the dogs inside the trans. Good luck and let us know what you do to fix it.
I have a 2004 2810, the rear left tends to stick, haven't had time to dig into it. I just keep putting it it forward and reverse, slowly moving, and my H and L lever would finally move. I think hydraulic fluid has an effect also, low? I've noticed that if gets a little low (my seal is leaking), then adding the proper level seems to help with the levers moving freely.
Problem I have with my 4540 is the light bulbs they put in these... kept blowing bulbs on the tail lights because of the excessive vibration of the rear fenders...so I converted them to led bulbs, they seem to be holding up, also the lenses & housing's for all the lights on the fenders are made of really Cheap plastic , be very careful tightening the screws, they will crack.
I think these mahindras are grossly overrated. Service is terrible. Valves are cheap crap. Mine was supposed to be new?? I had anti-freeze leaks, fuel leaks and the hoe valve problems all within the first year.
@@TrueBlueYukoner you must have got a bad one, I personally have not had any of those issues, I do all my own service, and keep a close eye on things....so far so good 🤞
@@johnstark3058 Good for you John. It's frustrating when the dealer (yard gear) refuses to do any diagnostics. They feed me a line of BS saying it's normal or I'm doing it wrong or I'm expecting too much.
The engine on them is pretty bullet proof. Based on the 1950’s international Harvester brand American made engine. The engine is almost an exact copy of it.
I've been thinking of getting a sealed AGM battery to replace the factory battery. I think the factory battery bounces around and leaks the lead acid out on the cables and the tray.
Anybody had a problem with the clutch? We did the regular Maintenance on it and the resetting. It will not kick in. I move the F and R lever very slightly and it starts to operate with out the clutch. Anybody ran into this problem? If so what did you do to fix it?
I've heard of the clutch plate sticking. I believe the solution for a stuck clutch is put it in reverse and dump the clutch, then do it in drive. Also it sounds like you have a shuttle shift model and I'm less familiar with that system. If you use facebook there is a group called Mahindra tractor owners. I highly recommend you join the group. They will answer your questions and probably have a solution for your tractor. Good luck!
I don't remember if it was a Mahindra,,, but it looked just like a massy Ferguson . But a guy came in to the shop . Limpin in . He had been pulling stumps. Mechanic tears it down and the axle was split oblong, and there was gravel embedded in the axle shaft. Have you ever seen this?
The electrical is crap, mine gets wet it takes weeks to dry out and start, the battery cables are shit, changed the terminals but something connected to the positive cable a smaller wire with a little box thingy is corraoted. I get this buzzing sound but it wont turn over, not the starter had this problem for 5 or 6 years now.
My Mahindra 2555H will run great and work fine for a couple of hours. All of a sudden the tractor stops moving forward. It is like something has overheated in the HST. Sometimes I can jiggle the wires underneath the passenger side where the Pedal wires go to the controller and it starts working again but sometimes it does not. I can turn the tractor off and leave for a few hours then it goes forward just fine. But there is no indicator when it will stop moving forward so I get nervous about getting too far away from the barn. Anyone have this issue and any idea on getting it fixed. The dealership does not seem to believe me and cannot fix it. Last year of warranty.
I bought a 6075 open station in 2020, just modified an 8-A JD backhoe to fit it,......I'm a diggin' fool. Tractor has been 100% issue free and the shuttle shift is the best.
Sorry, I don't know anything about that model but if it has a clutch it could be stuck or the clutch could be bad. Also check out any shift linkage that could be binding. Good luck!
I bought a mahinda loader/hoe a couple years ago. A Max21HST. It mostly works fine with exception of the hoe/boom function. The boom works erratically. Jumps and bounces. I had it to the dealer twice and they say nothing is wrong. If nothing is wrong then this is a piece of junk.
My curl function on the loader is very touchy. Could your problem be a pressure issue? Maybe it is something in the control lever. Thanks for sharing and please let us know if you get it worked out.
My back hall controls are very very touchy so it’s easy to make the boom jump right left usually I think a big part of it is a control handles are a fortnight half long so moving them is not a delicate operation I hold mine 6 inches up and operate it and that seems to be much smoother I’m tempted to cut them off and throw them put the balls back on top
If you're on facebook there is a group called Mahindra tractor owners. You'll have to join the group to get access but I've seen many posts on alternate interchangeable parts that might work for you. Good luck.
Please forgive me if this is a silly question, but never driven a tractor with gears, but I am looking at a used one right now…. Do you shift up from 1, 2, 3 to 4 as you speed up like a car from full stop? I should also ask how do you go from Low 4 to High 1? Clutch, HIGH, shift to 1 and release clutch??
You can shift on the go like a car but it is difficult on some tractors. You can also put it in say 4 hi and take off in that gear. The clutch should be used when shifting and you should be completely stopped before shifting from low to high range. Hope that helps.
I have a 1626 and I shift moving 3 and 4, but I've driven a stick shift my whole life and semi truck as well. You have to learn how to do it without grinding things. Have a gentle touch and slide the gears together gently. Grinding is no bueno.
I have a 4510. It's the worst tractor I've ever had or run and I've run them daily for over 50 years. This one hat 900 hours and the ac compressor went out at 500 hrs. The pto doesn't work after it's sat for a while. The bolts you mentioned stripped out and broke off so had to be drilled out and retaped. It's had several electric issues and the right wheel tears the cables off the loader controls when you make a hard right turn so you have to make 3 lefts to make a rite. And almost every time the dealer says that shouldn't happen.
Do not buy from Mahindra. They do not honor their 5 yr warranty. My 26xl has had several issues, no help from Mahindra, Bolts loose on loader broke my engine casting and I had to find a special tap and bolts- mahindra would not fix it and it only had 50 hrs. Hydraulic pump is weak now and will not lift as it did. No help from Mahindra again. Ive had to replace glow plugs twice and fix the steel hydraulic lines. No help from Mahindra. Hard to get service manuals and parts
I have mihindraxuv700 it's been nothing butt trouble will not ever start Even took back to dealer where bought charged me 800$still doesn't start Anybody get this problem figured out please
I am looking to replace my old John Deere. Which I use for brush hogging only now. I have a Yanmar mini excavator, and I must say the warranty is outstanding. 10-year drive train and 2 year bumper to bumper. So seriously considering a tractor from them, too. Also, the new tl100 trac loader looks really promising, so I might do a package deal. I'll give the Deere and my old s185 to the kid ( both run well still ). I figure will be my last upgrade. I have been impressed with Yanmar service and reliability. For parts reasons alone I wouldn't buy Mahindra.
I wouldn't buy a new Mahindra either. Mine is the old style, made in India instead of China. Apparently the new models are not as heavy duty and the repair parts are almost impossible to attain. What a shame, at one time I would have considered Mahindra a top brand.
@TheHandsOnChannel I live in San Antonio area. Kubota, by far, is the big player. My choice really came down to Yanmar or Kubota. I love my excavator. It's so smooth. My J.D. tractor has a yanmar engine. 20 years old and still runs great. My dealer is supposed to get the new trac loader in soon. So I'll see how that demo goes. If it is what I've heard, that will decide it for sure. They will certainly outlive me.
If you're sure it's in the switch you can bypass it with toggle switches or try to order a new one. Although I hear parts are back ordered for months. Good luck and thanks for sharing.
I couldn't afford a case. So I do the same work you do with a less expensive machine. I know how to fix things so it's not a problem for me. Now I'm gonna go count all the money I saved lmao.
So at the End of the Day is this a good Tractor? I feel it is strong but there are a lot of problems people mention throughout several videos. Why would any Tractor Manufacture let a Tractor go out of the Factory with the bolts not tightened? The Consumer should not have to worry about it. Also with so many complaints about leaks, cheap hoses, battery connections and more cheap parts you would think Mahindra would correct all this. I don’t own a Mahindra but almost purchased the 4540 several times. I bought 2 LS Tractors and one John Deere. No problems with LS whatsoever. Also I’m asking someone to tell me, there have been 5 dealerships in my area within 60 mile radius that had Mahindra Tractors and eventually told Mahindra to come get their Tractors off their lot. Why is that? I’m not attacking Mahindra but people Swear by them and Swear At Them. What is the truth about these Tractors? I really wanted to buy the 4540 but because of so many negative comments I went elsewhere. Thanks in advance. Mark.
Other than the fuel lines and some loose bolts mine has been great. I think the bolts need to be checked on every tractor after break in. The hoses and the battery terminals are a weak link and should be upgraded, but it's not a big deal to do those upgrades. I went with the Mahindra for weight. It has an old school trans-axle made of cast iron. It weighs over 7k. The 4025 and 4540 tractors are based on an old international design. They are low tech, simple, and easier to repair if they breakdown. Mine doesn't have all of the re-gen emissions bs that so many tractors have today. Most tractor mfg's are having issues getting parts because of supply chain disruptions. At the end of the day, I'd buy another one if I had to do it again.
@@TheHandsOnChannel Thanks for responding. I’m looking hard again at this Tractor. I was quoted $25,000 plus tax. Is that a good price? 4 wd with loader. I wouldn’t fill the tires because I would transport it from job to job and not keep it just at my dwelling. I’d use it to make money, add to my Arsenal. You know if Mahindra would, could read our conversation, and cared about their customers they could tweak that Tractor to the things we discussed and all this negative output would stop and it would greatly improve their sales. I guess take pride in your work. They could have an awesome product with just a little care and Quality Control.
My dealership has been stellar. It doesn’t matter the color, I guess, but if the dealership stinks, I’d run away from them. My local Kubota dealership was family-owned since it’s inception and they were really great…then a conglomerate bought them and now, unless you’re buying a $90,000 excavator, they don’t give two cents about you
Sorry I sound as if I am negative to your up load I am not its just all the comments I have seen over the years regarding cheap tractors and what folk expect its just a joke !! Sorry if I came over as negative to your up load not intentional !!!!!!!!!!!!
Maybe, but Kubota wanted way too much for a smaller tractor. I got a 40HP mahindra for the same price they wanted on a 20 something hp with less than half the lift capacity. I couldn't decide so I rented a Kubota for a week. Long story short, it wasn't enough tractor. It sucked in comparison.
sweetbeef my mahindra dealers throughout my state run hytrans when they change tranny fluids on the mahindra products they sell. its what they have on hand and is cheaper than mahindra tractor fluid. there is a product at fleet farm called farm rated tractor tranny and hydraulic fluid for 35 bucks for 5 gallon pale.
She's not meant to go head to head with asay a real Deere or Kubota, Mahindra is intentionally much cheaper than both of those, if they were trying to challenge Deere or Kubota they would simply be another Yanmar.... I like Mahindra, for the money they can't be beat, besides by us lol
Keep it clean as best you can and you'll be able to spot any problem a mile a mile off. The beauty to a machine like that is it's a relativity simple machine compared to what they're producing today which means problems are easier to diagnose. Also the fewer the electronics the fewer the problems. Love it.
You got that right! One of the reasons we went with this model was the simple old school design. Thanks for commenting!
thanks got that right ;;;
Came here bc the engine in my 1626 shuttle started intermittently knocking. Hubs added engine oil, it blew black smoke and died. And in the middle of that it didn't want to shut off w the key. And now bc we ha e paid it off early, we no longer have insurance on it so we get to pay out of pocket to fix it. And it will be next week before they can come out n get it.
I have a smaller Mahindra, a 38 hp. I have 500 hours on it and bought it new in 2020. My experience is that they are solid tractors as far as powertrain and hydraulics. They are horrible in regard to fit and finish. Fading paint, loose and missing bolts and screws, premature sensor failures. The service centers are also few and far between, but they were responsive and took care of the problems I encountered in a timely manner. All in all, I would buy one again. I love that the Mitsubishi engine on mine does not require regen.
Mahindra owner since 2002 and onto my second tractor now. Bullet proof engines and right to repair. Less electronic shit and less breakage. Value for money and better than over priced other brands
You would be surprised how close in price are most of the tractor brands. Personally if I'm spending $30K+ on a tractor I'm getting the most reliable tractor on the planet; Kubota. Also Mahindra lies about their "no DPF" technology called Mahindra mCRD. All they are doing is running the engine hot ALL THE TIME which makes the engine less efficient and burns more fuel.
@@nervousordo I get a different read on the Kubota larger tractors. I had a M135GX I bought at auction for a great price and thought about using it on my farm. However, seeing some design and engineering problems as described on the western truck and tractor repair channel I decided to sell it. The guy running the channel was very experienced in tractor repair. His basic opinion about larger Kubotas, having fixed several, was that they didn't have enough experience building larger tractors and their designs from a durability and repair standpoint were awful. ua-cam.com/video/ewqI2JjCkqU/v-deo.html
@@nervousordobull
Again 👍🏽 I dig your genuine approach. I’ve viewed many of your vids btw. Real fan here.
Thank you!
I have a mahindra 5555 and I fixed the stoped up fuel filter problem. You can run as much fuel as you want to. I just threw the one in the tank in the trash, and put an inline filter on it. Havn't had a problem yet and it will be easy to change, just cut the fuel off and change it.
This is alot better than having to go into the fuel tank and drain too clean that very small filter.
Just bought a 4540 2021 model new. I love the tractor. Everything you said in this video is spot on. Especially the shifting. I appreciate the info. on possible future issues, and the informative comments. Thanks for posting.
Hey man we just got a 22 4540 with 11 hrs. When on hills I guess does yours grind when trying to put into gear? Is that normal? Been trying to double clutch every time I put in gear but still grinds sometimes. Do this have sinkros?
I turn the throttle all the way down before shifting. On my 4540 If I shift with the throttle set higher it will grind the gears. I don't have any hills. Hope this helps.@@sammyglo5354
I've had my tractor for 7 years and it even came with a CD with the owners manual, parts catalog, AND a service manual BUT it covers 3 different models and not all the diagrams and pictures match up with my tractor. It shows a diagram of grease and lubrication points but I know of at least double the number of grease fittings that the manual shows and just yesterday I found another grease fitting that I never knew about and have obviously never greased. I bought some bright yellow zerk fitting covers but they do get brittle if you leave your tractor outside a lot. If you grease your tractor like you SHOULD then you can probably remember where they all are but if you're like a lot of folks, it might help to just make a short list of how many and where those fittings are as a reference.
2013 Mahindra 4035 owner here and I confirm all of the first three issues. Unfortunately I didn’t catch the bolts in time and was down to one bolt on one side which cracked the steel plate mount. Luckily I’m good at welding, but it took a ton of time to get it fixed properly and when I reassembled I used blue loctite, however, the blue wasn’t enough and still loosens up. I now do the finger tightness check about once a month and have to retighten the bolts about once a year, though next time I’ll throw some red loctite on and see if it stops the loosening. One thing not mentioned in the video is that I also had the lug nuts loosen on one of my rear wheels, so again, check those even if it’s just by hand. For the dripping fuel, my Mahindra dealer confirmed it was a common issue and that Mahindra has since revised the part. Unfortunately you have to buy the whole assembly (metal line, valve, and hose). I replaced it and it’s been perfect since then. I haven’t ran into the clogged fuel (yet). My current issues: 4wd stopped engaging and I haven’t had time to work on it to figure out the cause. The other issue which has been happening for years is small oil leak(s?). It’s been very difficult to find where it’s coming from and it’s such a small amount I’m not worried about the fluid level, it just pisses me off having oil drips on my shop floor (I have OCD) that I have to clean up.
As for the fuel tank i would advise if it's not to expensive to get a new one that does not have the rubberiser on the inside. It will save you alot of problems.
I have a Max 22 hst for 10 years now. The only problem i have had is the hydraulic lines that are under the metal cover on the bucket cross support fraying and starting to leak. Removed and replaced, no problem. The rear signal lights are prone to damage and as a result I had to replace them. This was very easy and I was able to replace them with the exact same lights from my Princess Auto store. Very cheap. The only issue i have is that the OEM air filter is $109 cdn. A rip off for sure, as was the gas filter at $20 each. But given the low frequency on replacing them, not so bad in the grand scheme of ownership. Other than that, it's a solid machine and will upgrade one day or buy a second larger tractor.
I ran across your video and although I don't have the series tractor that you do we still have some of the same issues. I have a 2555 HST and it's just a piece of junk. At this point it is 6 years old, about 600 hours, and I can't even count how many times it's been in the shop. The first time it went in the shop it had 10 hours on it and the fuel lines connecting to the injectors were loose and blew 10 gallons of diesel all over the motor. It's been in the shop twice for a leaky seal at the PTO and it still leaks. I've had two hydraulic oil cooler radiators fail without any mechanical damage. The air conditioning has gone out twice and it's still not working. Twice now one of the pulleys locked up and sheared, it's a plastic pulley and the next time it goes we're going to replace it with the metal one. The radiator hose clamp was put on crooked and cut the hose blowing radiator fluid all over my engine. Now the belts squeal like a stuck pig. The battery that originally came with it only lasted 2 years and we had to replace all the battery cables as well because they were just crappy. One of the cables that connects the joystick to the hydraulic valve has broken twice. About 2 years after we got it it became difficult to start. After another couple of years of having a deal with it not wanting to turn over in cold weather at all even after installing a inline radiator heater, the starter finally quit. We went to Mahindra to inquire about a new starter and it was over $1,000. We took our starter to a shop here in town and he was able to find one for us for about $600. At one point we couldn't even get the tractor started at all because the hydrostatic pedal sensor or something was out of alignment and even though we don't have our foot on the pedal the tractor thought that it was and just would not start. It's just a really horrible design, when you have your fuel filter hanging below the frame on the tractor you're just asking for trouble. We kept puncturing the fuel filter and we finally got it knocked off the bracket accidentally but it was the best thing that could have happened to us because we just took some bailing wire folded it upside down and put it up above the frame so it's protected now. And just yesterday something in the front end four-wheel drive broke, it makes a horrible clattering sound and I'm really dreading this repair bill. We paid nearly $40,000 for this tractor and it was a piece of s*** from day one. I try to spread the word to anybody that is shopping for a tractor and I really try and steer them away from Mahindra.
My 2014 4025 had fuel line leaks. Dealer gave me new lines. They had a recall on the lines. Also had to replace the small fuel line under the seat last year.
On my loader bolts, I ended up drilling the heads enough to allow lock wire. I aircraft style locked all mounting bolts to each other so they would not vibrate loose. Special lock washers, lock tight did not help.
Got mine at Central New Holland too.
The torque spec will be based on bolt diameter and grade when clamping force is applied to metal components. You can look up standard torque for given bolt diameter.
Good info, thanks!
@@TheHandsOnChannel you bet, thank you for sharing the results of your research.
Also I would add if you ever want to remove those bolts to use the blue locktite. The red is meant for high heat applications and the only way to extract some of them with large surface area is by heating with a torch. Blue lucite is more than sufficient for any low temp large diameter bolt applications.
@@3dw3dw I used blue after mine backed out and they loosened again. I don’t have a torque wrench to properly measure the torque, but my Mahindra dealer said they just max out their 1/2” air impact when tightening and so I did the same. I have to retighten the bolts every year and the next time around I’ll be using red loctite to see if that works. As you mentioned, red is meant for permanent fastening, but in this case it’s needed.
I changed my 3016 Mahindra to an AGM battery of a slightly larger size, no acid leakage.
I was considering that upgrade, thanks. What brand did you go with?
Get a Piranha blade for your bucket, it really helps on the dirt work.
Couldn’t agree more! Made a night and day difference for my uses.
Good info....Thank You
I have a question. My implement lift quit working on my 4540 after I see iced the trans oil and filter loader works great. Have not been able to locate problem but think a relief valve is stuck open on the implement lift. It is not the lift speed control being shut off. Any suggestions
These loader bolts are mot necessarily installed at the Mahindra factory in India, they are fitted often in the country of purchase as they are options.
Also many manufacturers stipulate tightening frame loader bolts after 1st use after delivery and this is just a part of routine maintenance due to the large forces placed on mounts,
The tank has a small tubular filter underneath the fuel tank with a stop cock, this filter becomes clogged quite easily and often from the paint flakes from internals of tank.
The Australian dealer I purchased my 60 hp Mahindra from advised just remove the plastic filter, the main diesel filters will easily deal with the debris, yes I did have that problem and did find flecks of a type of paint coating, after cleaning and replacing 3 times I just removed it , no problem since.
Battery cables have been reduced in diameter on virtually all modern cars due to cost vigilence and in time resistances at connections and over length turning of starter motors slowly 'cooks' windings causing the demand for more amperage to turn them, The cables are not meaty enough to carry the current and the trick is to replace with larger diameter cables.
Otherwise I have found my Mahindra tractor to be quite reliable and it does the job well, ps we have 2 reasonably new JX series Case tractors that have had early problems, both have had leaking rear main seals and required replacement clutches at less than 1000 hrs.
Also have a 58 year old yard tractor starting and pulling as well as new, a David Brown 990, there is something about the build quality of these 50/60/ and 70's machines that has been lost IMO.
Thanks for the Video!
The two shifter in the floor is the way tractors have been made for 70 years or more
Reliable !
Why change a design that has stood the test of time? At least with an old manual box you can jam it into some other gear. All these tractors with clutch packs and hydrostats are too complicated for what theyre doing. Not to mention how much they cost to repair
@@alexhickey5633 exactly
Great Video!!!!
Thank you!
Have had problems with gauge never working. Also paint completely faded and gone at 5 years. Had same problems with loose bolts
2013 Mahindra 4035 owner here and all three of these issues with mine too. Mine is even stored inside my shop when not in use except for a few rare occasions, yet the paint is still very faded. For the past two years the gauge doesn’t work for the first few minutes, then if I bump it with the palm of my hand it begins working.
My understanding on the fuel lines is that the fitting at the tank was either over crimped or under crimped at the factory. There was a TSB on the issue but it only addressed the smaller E-Max series which mine was not. My fuel line was part hard line and part soft line wrapped in a mesh hose protector that made it difficult to pinpoint the leak but it came from up high near the tank which is behind the dash on my model.
I had to replace the line that goes into the top of the tank because it was leaking on my 6500
@@OShackHennessy Mine is a 6530. I didn't buy it from my local dealer but figured they would just send a field tech out to replace it. No dice. They wanted $100 each way for an 8 mile trip to haul it to their shop. I didn't have a trailer big enough at the time. I said well obviously the part is faulty and asked if they could give me the part and I'd bring the defective part back in when I swapped it out. They told me the regional rep would have to decide if it was warrantied or not so I'd have to remove it and bring it in and wait for him to decide, leaving me without a tractor until then. I left them with a few choice words. This kind of crap is why I didn't buy from my local dealer to begin with but it put me in a position of making my own repairs which is fine. I have all the service manuals.
@@zaappp1588 I like to do my own repairs when possible but I’ll still require professional assistance at times. Check for local hotshot guys I have a guy here who picked up my tractor 3 hours away for $600. The price he quoted for taking it to my local dealer here in town was “oh just give me a case of beer”. 😂
@@OShackHennessy I've got a gooseneck now but a case of beer is a pretty good deal. I bought my tractor from a dealer out of state that was 7.5 hours away back when diesel was cheap. The dealer found the driver and had it delivered for $650. Another dealer wanted $2000.
Watch out for oil filter. If you go over brush it may hang and tear it up or off.
The problem with the fuel leak is poor quality hoses. Inside the tank has rubberiser of poor quality and mixed with fuel the rubber startes to desintegrate and it clogs up your fuel filter and eventually your injectors, and the seals are of very poor quality.
Do they still do this on the 2021 models?
The factory wire braided hose is known to leak. My dealer cut the flex part off and replace it with good quality fuel hose. Problem solved.
Bought a 1640 with just a few hours on it. 3 point is crazy jerky when lifting. Smooth going down. Lowest idle and after warming up as well as cold. Any suggestions?
I'm guessing here but it could be low on hydraulic fluid or maybe the hydro filter is clogged. Mine has a knob below the seat that controls the speed of the 3 point, you might need to open the knob up a little bit. Let us know what you find out, good luck.
I'm having an issue getting mine out of low gear. I have a mahindra 4025 with a LH lever on the floor to the left of my shifter. I put it into low (while it wasnt running) and now I can't get it into high. Is there a trick to it? Any suggestions?
Will it start? If so, I would try to run it and see if going forward and reverse frees it up. I heard of a guy that had his trans stick in gear and he had to get a rubber mallet to free it up. Another guy had to take the top of the trans off and he was able to free up the dogs inside the trans. Good luck and let us know what you do to fix it.
I have a 2004 2810, the rear left tends to stick, haven't had time to dig into it. I just keep putting it it forward and reverse, slowly moving, and my H and L lever would finally move. I think hydraulic fluid has an effect also, low? I've noticed that if gets a little low (my seal is leaking), then adding the proper level seems to help with the levers moving freely.
@@user-ym9wb2mk5e
I have a 4540 4WD
Haven’t really used it too much, but now it’s popping 40a ignition fuse when shut down…
Problem I have with my 4540 is the light bulbs they put in these... kept blowing bulbs on the tail lights because of the excessive vibration of the rear fenders...so I converted them to led bulbs, they seem to be holding up, also the lenses & housing's for all the lights on the fenders are made of really Cheap plastic , be very careful tightening the screws, they will crack.
Thank you, I'll watch out for that.
I think these mahindras are grossly overrated. Service is terrible. Valves are cheap crap. Mine was supposed to be new?? I had anti-freeze leaks, fuel leaks and the hoe valve problems all within the first year.
@@TrueBlueYukoner you must have got a bad one, I personally have not had any of those issues, I do all my own service, and keep a close eye on things....so far so good 🤞
@@johnstark3058 Good for you John. It's frustrating when the dealer (yard gear) refuses to do any diagnostics. They feed me a line of BS saying it's normal or I'm doing it wrong or I'm expecting too much.
Love Mahindra!
The engine on them is pretty bullet proof. Based on the 1950’s international Harvester brand American made engine. The engine is almost an exact copy of it.
My tractor is a little over a year ago and the battery is eating the cable ends up and the hold down.
I've been thinking of getting a sealed AGM battery to replace the factory battery. I think the factory battery bounces around and leaks the lead acid out on the cables and the tray.
Anybody had a problem with the clutch? We did the regular Maintenance on it and the resetting. It will not kick in. I move the F and R lever very slightly and it starts to operate with out the clutch.
Anybody ran into this problem? If so what did you do to fix it?
I've heard of the clutch plate sticking. I believe the solution for a stuck clutch is put it in reverse and dump the clutch, then do it in drive. Also it sounds like you have a shuttle shift model and I'm less familiar with that system. If you use facebook there is a group called Mahindra tractor owners. I highly recommend you join the group. They will answer your questions and probably have a solution for your tractor. Good luck!
@@TheHandsOnChannel Another red flag for me not to get a Mahindra. You guys are honest and I appreciate the truth.
I don't remember if it was a Mahindra,,, but it looked just like a massy Ferguson . But a guy came in to the shop . Limpin in . He had been pulling stumps. Mechanic tears it down and the axle was split oblong, and there was gravel embedded in the axle shaft.
Have you ever seen this?
No I've never heard of that one, but I have heard of the front wheel hub assembly getting loose and falling off.
Three pointer wont go down or up any ideas theres a valve below the seat i opend it and still dont move what am i doing wrong?
Check your hydraulic fluid. I hear that when these get low the 3 point wont work right.
The electrical is crap, mine gets wet it takes weeks to dry out and start, the battery cables are shit, changed the terminals but something connected to the positive cable a smaller wire with a little box thingy is corraoted. I get this buzzing sound but it wont turn over, not the starter had this problem for 5 or 6 years now.
Just noticed 5 year warranty on the cowling what more can you ask for ????????????????
My Mahindra 2555H will run great and work fine for a couple of hours. All of a sudden the tractor stops moving forward. It is like something has overheated in the HST. Sometimes I can jiggle the wires underneath the passenger side where the Pedal wires go to the controller and it starts working again but sometimes it does not. I can turn the tractor off and leave for a few hours then it goes forward just fine. But there is no indicator when it will stop moving forward so I get nervous about getting too far away from the barn. Anyone have this issue and any idea on getting it fixed. The dealership does not seem to believe me and cannot fix it. Last year of warranty.
You should be able to down shift because it's a syncronized gear box.
No there not.
I bought a 6075 open station in 2020, just modified an 8-A JD backhoe to fit it,......I'm a diggin' fool. Tractor has been 100% issue free and the shuttle shift is the best.
Iv'e replaced all the flexible fuel lines on mine under warranty. And ifyou can get yourself a 4 in 1 bucket, they are very use full.
I have 1626 shuttle won't shift to forward or reverse when running
Sorry, I don't know anything about that model but if it has a clutch it could be stuck or the clutch could be bad. Also check out any shift linkage that could be binding. Good luck!
Not not check the water level in the new batteries, they will leak afterwords.
I bought a mahinda loader/hoe a couple years ago. A Max21HST. It mostly works fine with exception of the hoe/boom function. The boom works erratically. Jumps and bounces. I had it to the dealer twice and they say nothing is wrong. If nothing is wrong then this is a piece of junk.
My curl function on the loader is very touchy. Could your problem be a pressure issue? Maybe it is something in the control lever. Thanks for sharing and please let us know if you get it worked out.
@@TheHandsOnChannel Not the curl.
My back hall controls are very very touchy so it’s easy to make the boom jump right left usually I think a big part of it is a control handles are a fortnight half long so moving them is not a delicate operation I hold mine 6 inches up and operate it and that seems to be much smoother I’m tempted to cut them off and throw them put the balls back on top
Anyone know where to get a replacement 5010 pto solenoid?
If you're on facebook there is a group called Mahindra tractor owners. You'll have to join the group to get access but I've seen many posts on alternate interchangeable parts that might work for you. Good luck.
its the cables they are junk on my 2015
looking for a way to get a repair manual for a 1533 Mahindra
Have you tried the Mahindra website? Sometimes they will let you download the manual there.
Please forgive me if this is a silly question, but never driven a tractor with gears, but I am looking at a used one right now….
Do you shift up from 1, 2, 3 to 4 as you speed up like a car from full stop? I should also ask how do you go from Low 4 to High 1? Clutch, HIGH, shift to 1 and release clutch??
You can shift on the go like a car but it is difficult on some tractors. You can also put it in say 4 hi and take off in that gear. The clutch should be used when shifting and you should be completely stopped before shifting from low to high range. Hope that helps.
I have a 1626 and I shift moving 3 and 4, but I've driven a stick shift my whole life and semi truck as well. You have to learn how to do it without grinding things. Have a gentle touch and slide the gears together gently. Grinding is no bueno.
How much money can you make as a side hustle with one of these?
Probably around 100-150 per hour for dirt work and 75-100 per hour for brushoging in my area. But you would have to figure in the fuel and maint.
@@TheHandsOnChannel thanks for the response, I own a lawn business, considering expanding in to other things just not sure what I could so
I have a 4510. It's the worst tractor I've ever had or run and I've run them daily for over 50 years. This one hat 900 hours and the ac compressor went out at 500 hrs. The pto doesn't work after it's sat for a while. The bolts you mentioned stripped out and broke off so had to be drilled out and retaped. It's had several electric issues and the right wheel tears the cables off the loader controls when you make a hard right turn so you have to make 3 lefts to make a rite. And almost every time the dealer says that shouldn't happen.
Haven’t seen the white smoke, but it did run like piss
Do not buy from Mahindra. They do not honor their 5 yr warranty. My 26xl has had several issues, no help from Mahindra, Bolts loose on loader broke my engine casting and I had to find a special tap and bolts- mahindra would not fix it and it only had 50 hrs. Hydraulic pump is weak now and will not lift as it did. No help from Mahindra again. Ive had to replace glow plugs twice and fix the steel hydraulic lines. No help from Mahindra. Hard to get service manuals and parts
Some of the John Deer tractors are made in India
I have mihindraxuv700 it's been nothing butt trouble will not ever start Even took back to dealer where bought charged me 800$still doesn't start Anybody get this problem figured out please
Start with the battery terminals/cables, check grounds, check fuses.
I am looking to replace my old John Deere. Which I use for brush hogging only now. I have a Yanmar mini excavator, and I must say the warranty is outstanding. 10-year drive train and 2 year bumper to bumper. So seriously considering a tractor from them, too. Also, the new tl100 trac loader looks really promising, so I might do a package deal. I'll give the Deere and my old s185 to the kid ( both run well still ). I figure will be my last upgrade. I have been impressed with Yanmar service and reliability. For parts reasons alone I wouldn't buy Mahindra.
I wouldn't buy a new Mahindra either. Mine is the old style, made in India instead of China. Apparently the new models are not as heavy duty and the repair parts are almost impossible to attain. What a shame, at one time I would have considered Mahindra a top brand.
@TheHandsOnChannel I live in San Antonio area. Kubota, by far, is the big player. My choice really came down to Yanmar or Kubota. I love my excavator. It's so smooth. My J.D. tractor has a yanmar engine. 20 years old and still runs great. My dealer is supposed to get the new trac loader in soon. So I'll see how that demo goes. If it is what I've heard, that will decide it for sure. They will certainly outlive me.
I have had my Mahindra for 18 years. No problems. Tractors are like Harleys. They are supposed to leak and drip. It's a tractor.
Just put new tank on mine keep it full and add sea foam to it..
I have key switch problems! Won’t start!
If you're sure it's in the switch you can bypass it with toggle switches or try to order a new one. Although I hear parts are back ordered for months. Good luck and thanks for sharing.
Gas tank? I think he meant diesel.
Yeah this is my first diesel so I'll probably do that a lot, lol.
Firstly It isn’t a mahindra .
It is a REBRANDED KIOTI .
second .There is almost no service
network . Third .Parts are non existent.
I would say the fuel tank was lined by whoever owned it before you I’ve never seen a new tractor with that junk
It's factory and apparently they used cheap rubber. I'm going to change all the fuel lines soon. Thanks for commenting!
My 6065 has developed a fuel leak.
I have 80 hours on my 4540. It has started having power issues with the engine cutting out for just a second
Check that in tank fuel filter, they tend to get clogged.
I have the same issue with low power after 20 min of running. I plan to remove the tank filter and replace with a inline.
@@TheHandsOnChannel
i bought a new case jx 55 2006 and never done nothing but run it u get what u pay for
I couldn't afford a case. So I do the same work you do with a less expensive machine. I know how to fix things so it's not a problem for me. Now I'm gonna go count all the money I saved lmao.
@@TheHandsOnChannel it was 55 hp 4 wheel drive i paip 18000
@@tgh223 Wow you stole it, based on today's prices.
So at the End of the Day is this a good Tractor? I feel it is strong but there are a lot of problems people mention throughout several videos. Why would any Tractor Manufacture let a Tractor go out of the Factory with the bolts not tightened? The Consumer should not have to worry about it. Also with so many complaints about leaks, cheap hoses, battery connections and more cheap parts you would think Mahindra would correct all this. I don’t own a Mahindra but almost purchased the 4540 several times. I bought 2 LS Tractors and one John Deere. No problems with LS whatsoever. Also I’m asking someone to tell me, there have been 5 dealerships in my area within 60 mile radius that had Mahindra Tractors and eventually told Mahindra to come get their Tractors off their lot. Why is that? I’m not attacking Mahindra but people Swear by them and Swear At Them. What is the truth about these Tractors? I really wanted to buy the 4540 but because of so many negative comments I went elsewhere. Thanks in advance. Mark.
Other than the fuel lines and some loose bolts mine has been great. I think the bolts need to be checked on every tractor after break in. The hoses and the battery terminals are a weak link and should be upgraded, but it's not a big deal to do those upgrades. I went with the Mahindra for weight. It has an old school trans-axle made of cast iron. It weighs over 7k. The 4025 and 4540 tractors are based on an old international design. They are low tech, simple, and easier to repair if they breakdown. Mine doesn't have all of the re-gen emissions bs that so many tractors have today. Most tractor mfg's are having issues getting parts because of supply chain disruptions. At the end of the day, I'd buy another one if I had to do it again.
@@TheHandsOnChannel Thanks for responding. I’m looking hard again at this Tractor. I was quoted $25,000 plus tax. Is that a good price? 4 wd with loader. I wouldn’t fill the tires because I would transport it from job to job and not keep it just at my dwelling. I’d use it to make money, add to my Arsenal. You know if Mahindra would, could read our conversation, and cared about their customers they could tweak that Tractor to the things we discussed and all this negative output would stop and it would greatly improve their sales. I guess take pride in your work. They could have an awesome product with just a little care and Quality Control.
@@markmccoy1304 I agree and 25k sounds like a fair price to me.
My dealership has been stellar. It doesn’t matter the color, I guess, but if the dealership stinks, I’d run away from them. My local Kubota dealership was family-owned since it’s inception and they were really great…then a conglomerate bought them and now, unless you’re buying a $90,000 excavator, they don’t give two cents about you
Sorry I sound as if I am negative to your up load I am not its just all the comments I have seen over the years regarding cheap tractors and what folk expect its just a joke !!
Sorry if I came over as negative to your up load not intentional !!!!!!!!!!!!
Tracter go burrrrr
Mahindra warranty is worst in the world.
I never dealt with it since I bough a used machine, but thanks for sharing. Might just help someone else who is considering a new Mahindra.
It may be a 7 year warranty but if they deny valid claim then it's not worth anything
They have fixed mine whenever I needed warranty work done, i'm in Australia and as far as i'm concerned its a great tractor.
👍🇦🇺🍻
Mahindra are a very poor tractor choice .
Spend the extra money . Buy. a johnny or a kubota .
BUT Do NOT BUY A MAHINDRA .
YOU’LL be SORRY !!!!!
Kubota is better
Must be for as much as they want for one. I simply couldn't afford a JD or Kubota.
Lmao nah.
Mahindra is better
Maybe, but Kubota wanted way too much for a smaller tractor. I got a 40HP mahindra for the same price they wanted on a 20 something hp with less than half the lift capacity. I couldn't decide so I rented a Kubota for a week. Long story short, it wasn't enough tractor. It sucked in comparison.
@@TheHandsOnChannel I guess you get what you pay for. Cheap is cheap ie. mahindra, Good is good, better is best. Don't buy mahindra.
sweetbeef my mahindra dealers throughout my state run hytrans when they change tranny fluids on the mahindra products they sell. its what they have on hand and is cheaper than mahindra tractor fluid. there is a product at fleet farm called farm rated tractor tranny and hydraulic fluid for 35 bucks for 5 gallon pale.
She's not meant to go head to head with asay a real Deere or Kubota, Mahindra is intentionally much cheaper than both of those, if they were trying to challenge Deere or Kubota they would simply be another Yanmar....
I like Mahindra, for the money they can't be beat, besides by us lol