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For those with regen issues with the B3350. It is a mechanical Deisel. The sensors determine the need for regen purely by increased back pressure detected by the sensors. Simply take off your DPF filter canister, cut it in half, remove the filter media, have the canister welded back together and reinstall. No ECM flash need because as I said it has mechanical injectors. With no filter to clog the sensors will not detect back pressure and will not have the computer call a regen cycle. This mod alone is a game changer for a B3350.
Shouldn’t have to do that though. A manufacturer as large as Kubota should be helping those facing the issues. They can afford it. They made the problem... they should help with a resolution. They sold, and continued to sell, a defective product. Manufacturers need to be held accountable for pushing subpar products at premium prices and then being allowed to get away with it. It’s not just Kubota either. Many manufacturers have been using similar tactics. Take Ford for example. They pushed out the first gen 3.5 ecoboost platform and charged the new owners a premium for a flawed product. They tried to patch the issues but ultimately had to redesign the platform. Who paid for all that? The end users. Ford didn’t do much to help those they used as product testers. They made the end user fund their trials. The first gens are still desirable for being steel bodies... but people don’t want to buy that janky first gen ecoboost... so the resale values are basically nothing. Many shops don’t even want to work on ecoboost platforms and people are forced to go to the dealership. You can look at $10k plus for engine replacement. In a truck that MIGHT sell for $13k on a good day. 😂
@@TsunauticusIV end user pays for everything thats to be expected but what isnt to be expected is wasting your time. They need to test it better before selling it.
@@TsunauticusIV Another thing with the eco crap is it really annoys me how it gets pushed down on the working class. You ever see Amazon's fleet of tractor trailers? Make those electric. Make the freighters hauling goods from China electric. Swap out the coal plants. After that THEN bust my chops about my consumer vehicle that runs a couple hours a week.
@@snowjammma Yeah, starting with the processes around extraction and refinement of raw materials isn't a bad start. But tbh I think if we wanna get anywhere we will need abundant nuclear energy plus mechanical or biological sequestration of carbon. Still, this isn't a problem for some random blue collar worker, this has to be solved upstream.
On the JD 2320 Drive shaft JD doesn't sell just the U-Joints. But if you go to NAPA auto parts you can get replacement joints that have End Cap grease fittings. So that you don't have to spend lots more on the shaft removal if you take two Industrial C-Clamps on the motor mounts you can get the shaft off. I also cut a square out of the right side and put a hole in the plate across from U-Joints to be able to grease them
People need videos like this to make an informed purchase. Tractors are to expensive to “hope” you bought a dependable one. Thank you for a fair unbiased video.
I would put the JD 1025R at the top of this list. In 2015 I traded a Kubota BX for a new 1025R and I’ve never regretted anything more. My tractor has been back to the dealer 15 times, sometimes for 30+ days at a time for mower deck issues. I had to fight tooth and nail for ANY help from the dealer. It was like pulling teeth, and when it came down to it Deere didn’t honor my warranty. I’ve never owned a worse product or had a worse customer service experience. I will never buy green again. Go with Kubota.
I agree. I have a BX2660 and it's been flawless. I test drove the 1025 and the 2660. The deck on the BX was much better and the belt was twice as big. I also did not want another tractor with the plastic hood. They always get brittle and crack with the ones I've owned. You never see a John deer in landscaping around here. They are always Kubota BX tractors. I do like the double pedal on the John deer instead of heal/toe but you get used to what you drive.
I don't buy your opinion on the kubota bx series of tractors. There are so many.brands out there from rural king to Mahindra bobcat to God knows what. I am 64 and the mower deck is easy to remove and pull out. Same with reinstalling it. I hear drive overs may be more difficult to attach and detach. Kubota tractors are dependable. I seem to hear John deer and kunota are tge best. You forgot about new Holland tractors. All of those are better than the kabota bx series really? Most of the others have yanmar engines including John deer. Kubota makes their own. Something is not right with what you are saying.
Just bought my first compact tractor. It is a 2305 john deere. After watching your video I tried to grease my u joints. Can't get at them. I took it all apart and replaced them with napa j 410 u joints. I can now grease them. They have the fittings in the end of the cap.not in the center. Just a tip if you have one of these. Good video.
I have a 2305 JD also, found the ujoints when I destroyed the hydro cooling fan, did grease the ujoints when I found them, did have to remove the drive shaft which was not hard, took about 30 min. Guess I was lucky to have demolished the fan.
Branson 4520c Hasn't let me down yet and you don't even need counterweight to use the front end loader and as far as the backhoe attachment the one I picked up is a 8ft reach 16inch wide bucket mounts up as a full frame unit to reduce stress on the tractor by spreading the weight well picking up stuff. The horse power on my unit is 48 the next size up has the turbo if I can remember correctly it made 55hp same body size as mine though. Before you buy any tractor always go test drive them first.Branson really had me surprised over the rest of the market for a small compact tractor!
I have 1100 hours on my 4520r and it is great. As you know or will soon realize, our Branson tractors far exceed these other brands in lift capacity of both the loader and the 3 point hitch. Also tighter turning radius, heavier weight, our backhoes are designed simpler, list goes on. Working on a 1000 hour review video. Couple small issues but nothing unexpected, I definitely work mine a little than most but its like the tractor just begs for more!
I just got an L2501 & couldn’t be happier. It’s done everything I’ve needed so far like mowing pasture, box scraping my road and light loader jobs. I checked for used, but either there wasn’t any available or they cost almost as much as a new one. Some were going for only 5k less than new & were 10+ years old! 0% APR for 60 months was a big plus and there was several dealer incentives for equipment. AC cab would be nice, but I really didn’t want to pay for it. 😉
I own 3 kubota tractors. A 23, a 34 and a 75 horsepower. 0 problems with any of them! My worst was an 85 HP New Holland! It took a technician to work on any aspect of that thing! Everything on it was computer driven and you needed a degree in electronics to evaluate all of the faults that appeared daily on the dashboard! Many times you had to stop the engine and reset the computer (5 seconds)and try again! Kubotas are simple to run and (rarely) work on! Love my kubotas!
We have the b2920 and LOVE it. I've built roads on a hill with that thing that it should never have been able to do. It's all mechanical, parts are cheap and readily available. The best part is .75 GPH fuel consumption.
@Keith Chrysler Your kubota's must be older and don't have tier lV with dpf because everything over 25 hp today is computerized and require technician's to work on them.
"Why would you design a tractor that couldn't have a backhoe on it?" you say, well because a lot of folks have zero intention of paying close to $10K for a backhoe that they will never (or occasionally) need - makes no sense to spend that money for that attachment unless you have a business that needs it. Why spend the extra money on the 2R series when you don't need the drive over mower capability? If all ones needs/wants is a load and a PTO, then the 3E series make perfect sense. Heavier is not always better either when using a rotary cutter on pastures as it compacts the ground more, leading to more weeds and gets stuck easier in puggy ground. The 3E is cheaper by a lot, lifts a full 61" bucket filled with dirt w/o issue, can handle a 6ft rotary cutter or a 800lb tiller, etc. Again, if one doesn't need all the bells and whistles that an R-series provides, why pay up for it?
You're right. For the two-three DIY projects I have in mind requiring a backhoe, I'd rather rent a mini excavator for a day at a time, or hire out the machine work to a machine owner who wants side-gigs, depending which makes sense at the time. Barring an unforeseen great deal on a good used tractor that already includes one, either of those options is likely to be far cheaper in the end than buying a backhoe attachment that won't get used very often. Plus, any mini-excavator is a far superior tool for the job compared to anything you can add to a compact tractor. (That said, if I did happen to own a backhoe, I'm sure I'd find a few more uses for it.)
Well I have a John Deere 4310 and I never planned on having or needing a backhoe ether. But guess what things changed in life and I could really use one and I found a used one for $3500 model 47 with all the mounting brackets I just had to get the power beyond from JD. So my point is I didn't have to trade tractors to accomplish this. If you look around you can get used attachments at really good prices just like tractors. And like he says all these do hold resale value. So depending on which you chose you can still recoup most of your investments ether way you go.
I bought a bx23 in 2006. I now have 1,450hrs on it and I'll keep it till it needs buried. It compliments my jobsites alongside a kx71. I have had to weld the backhoe main boom but that is from seriously overdoing it over and over. Replaced the driveshaft but that was due to motor mounts that needed replaced to. Front loader pins are worn to junk so a rework is coming... They were greased but lots of silty mud work is like sandpaper. I have looked at details on the 23s... Love the easier access to hydraulic oil check/fill, hate the pedal change, neato bucket changes but just hard to pull the trigger on price when my old one is still jamming away. Back when I bought, I built a database and was comparing the similar JD model and also a MF2310. JDs price was up and they didn't make a OEM backhoe for it then, the MF was so close but the frame and some connections just didn't appear as beefy and weighed more (I had a ceiling for towing at the time). An important part was parts availability... Kubota won that out with two dealerships in the area. Always nice to hear opinions but based on some experience.. some good info.. thanks!
IMHO, first time tractor SCUT/CUT buyers are mostly influenced by the price "sticker shock". They inevitably opt for a lower price without considering, or really understanding, the long term ramifications of limited capacities or functionalities of some tractors. If purchased properly, and carefully considering physical size, HP, capacities, attachments, hydraulics, cab vs ROPS, long term service and support, etc., a CUT tractor will easily last for many decades when put to use by a typical home/land owner. Conversely, you cannot really expect a large frame CUT, even with a MMM, to also be a "delicate lawn mower". This is when it is probably wise to purchase a dedicated "lawn mower" for that task and let your much larger tractor do the things it can do much better. All that said, if a 1025R with a MMM and its FEL and various appropriately sized 3PH attachments can really do it all for you and your needs, go for it.
@@ttss5726 SCUT/CUT = (Sub) compact utility tractor, ROPS= Rolling over protection system, MMM = mid mount mower, FEL = Front end loader....and no I don't own a tractor, I just watch too many vids of GWT channel (Good Work Tractors) lol
I agree. I have a B2650 I bought new in 2017. Has @ 600 hours as of now. Other then regular maintenance and 1 flat on a front tire, no other repairs. Love it.
Went from a deer 2018 5055e cab/loader to a new holland work master 75 cab/loader . Pros on the Deere hydraulics and reliability blow the new holland away . Cons is the tractor got crap fuel mileage and no power . New holland the tractor has a ton more power and fuel mileage over the Deere main reason no dpf . Cons is this is my second tractor from New holland first one couldn’t solve the ecm issue tractor wouldn’t run right . After a month they have me a new one . First issue pto cable breaks down a week. Get it back ac compressor blows up stays in shop for 3 weeks . Third time around the idler pulley bolt snaps off in block down a week. I’m done with new holland going to get a Massey Ferguson 4707 tomorrow.
I have a 2011 New Holland Boomer 35, 4x4, HST, (don't judge me..... lollll ;-) ) bought it used from a neighbour in 2013, with 95hrs now with over 1,600hrs without any problems except usual maintenance (I do it by myself) and wear and tear. I use it for partly logging my 800 + acres, lanscaping around including snowblowing my 900' driveway. I do make it to work sometimes but always in respect of his capacity, as well as my Takeuchi TB-235 excavator.
My tractor mechanic has been working on tractors for over fifty years and he says if you want a good tractor, get an old tractor and rebuild it. He stays busy working on the newer tractors because there is always something going wrong with them.
stuff today is made to break down. I see so many 49 ford tractors still running today. How many of these new piles of crap will still be going in 60+ years?
Problem is old stuff lacks features that people now want. Not that many AWD smaller tractors with good power output lots of hydraulics etc. and those that are out there are usually pretty well worn out and sometimes off market sure nothing like buying a Deere 4020 but do you need a big 2wd tractor?
@@pbgd3 I had a John Deere 4020! The older tractors I have have everything I need including rear hydraulic for implements and selective positrac. I also have a couple of newer tractors and some of the safety features are very aggravating.
As a owner in past of JD1025, BX2680, and currently B2601 I will agree with some. 1025 is bigger tractor. Feels like B2601 on undersized wheels. Both oficially fits into sub-compact, but thats all. This is similar like comparing F150 vs F250 (both full size pick ups), but what a difference. . There is difference in lifting capacity between JD1025 and BX, but isn`t as big as Tim showed in his video 1025 vs 2680. Weights on pallet for BX were placed further from pin, than for jd. I was able to lift around 600lbs excluding forks to about 1-2 feet above ground. To lift to height 2-3 feet above ground 400-450lbs. Jd1025 will lift probably 100, maybe 150lbs more. When I stepped from JD1025 to 2680 most annoying wasn`t lift capacity, but position valve control missing on 2680. Grading and all work on 3 point hitch was little more difficult. I was wondering between 2601 and JD2025. When I compared.... winner was orange. Much more efficient on fuel, plus 3 speed rear end. On the end JD completely lost telling me "Kubotas are made by illegal emigrants in Georgia". That was the only argument of sales person at Washington Tractor dealer. JD2032 or B2650 were slightly too big for my needs. I have considered New Holland and Massey Ferguson as well, but dealers were far.
I have a b3350 with cab, front loader and backhoe. I work that thing like it’s a red headed step child. The primary issues I’ve since disabled due to starting and staying running have all been related to safety switches. If you jump out the seat switch and the Hydostat trans pedals this will cure random non-start and dying when bouncing in seat. As for the DPF regen, if you run the motor above 2000 rpm you will seldom if ever need to do a park in place regen. If you live in a cold area and have issues you must remove an intake baffle to allow preheated intake air into the engine to keep dpf hot enough. A company in Poland sells a DPF delete kit but I think right now at 250 hours I don’t need it. If you get a deal on a low hour b3350, I’d take it. Mine was included with our house, if I ever leave it will go with me as the house appraisal is above the mortgage without a tractor. I look at it as $30k profit and a free toy to build sand castles all day long 😁😉🇺🇸🪵🚜
I bought a 2019 CK3510 and it's way better then any other Kubota I've run before, I absolutely love it. There were alot of little things that made me consider a Kioti over a Kubota and the little things matter to me.
I have the Kioti DX 40 and was farm raised with tractors, no question it's a fantastic tractor and built very strong. As good or better than Deere and Kubota and thousands less!
100% , kiotis are better tractors than kubota and most modern jd's , I like kubota but they can't compete with kioti , branson or tym in the weight , hydraulic capacity , price and in some cases warranty categories, these new to US brands that have been around for a long time elsewhere are reliable and in my opinion more of a working man's machine , and even the base models are normally set up as at least a mid teir kubota or jd but at way less$ , at that point if you have a good reliable dealer close enough , to me it seems odd to choose some fad brands like kubota when there are other's like kioti and tym that are doing great and are generally better in most ways .
I would hunt hard for a low hour,clean used tractor long before I would buy any new machine with regent.Just my opinion,you'll never sell me on new diesel technology,its not dependable and will cost you money somewhere.I bought a new 2015 L 2501,just because of the horsepower threshold of DPF,and used ones were too close to new price,so I bought new.Excellent,simple,straight forward tractor,no bells and whistles,NO ISSUES.
Im going to post some positivity about my '16 3350. I bought it nearly two years ago with 500 hrs on it. The seller was told the dealer went thru and repaired the regen system and it has worked perfect since I have owned it. I have had four regen cycles on it that went flawless...plus I never idle the engine for longer than 20 seconds.I am happy with my B3350 ( upgrade from BX2660 ) Im in central IL so we have our share of extreme weather at times.
same with mine, 650 hrs, shut down once this summer 90 deg, high humidity, ac blowing and 4 hours of mowing grass at full throttle, 30 min kool down, good to go, love the tractor, perfect size for me. ill delete if that time comes
I have 500 hrs on a BX2680 with driver over deck. I have taken the deck and FEL of many times and have not had any issues and everything is till working as good as he I got it! My biggest reason for not getting a JD was the amount of plastic on it , I like being able to take a hammer to dents :)
My 1981 Kubota B7100DT with over 5000 hours, With Loader,Backhoe, McConnel Arm Mower, York Rake, Post Hole Digger.1 Clutch replaced 15 years ago.Nicknamed “Tanky” Great little machine! ☘️
Is this a 70hp? I'm looking fit reviews on a 55 or 60 hp and can't find anything. Was gonna get a 70hp kubota tomorrow but also thinking about 55hp mahindra. That's the options I have that are cabbed and on the lot here in vidalia
The bottom line is you need to find a reputable dealer in your area. No matter what brand tractor you choose: Deere, Massey, Kubota etc, they are machines and all will have issues here and there. You need to make sure your dealer stands behind the tractors they sell and give you piece of mind in the event something does go wrong. You can ask ten different people what’s the best tractor to buy and you can get ten different answers. Bottom line, your dealer is 1/2 of your consideration when buying a tractor!
When i buy a 40K tractor, i need to know the brand and dealer are gonna stand behind their product. I don’t care what you can get online. I can all the parts i need online for my car, but i use the dealer if there are issues beyond basic maintenance or repair that should be covered or if it’s too new for issues to begin.
Shredxcam22 you have the time and knowledge... koodos to you for that. I just bought a Massey 2706 and all the implements, I only use it to brush hog and plant food plots. Once in a while some loader work. I don’t know the first thing about motors, and even less about diesels. Your point was exactly what I was talking about. Make sure you use a reputable dealer. I use a local Massey dealer in NY, they are awesome. Only 50 hours on the tractor.. but I expect them to get involved if I have any issues this early in the game. Just cutting down the PTO shafts once I added a quick hitch was a chore for me. Thankfully my neighbor worked on machines all his life...LOL
@@blessed7fold I purchased multiple tractor brands from multiple dealer. All I dealt with take their customers first and then will provide you service even if it’s the brand they sell. They are all like that . As far as out of warranty cost... good luck finding any dealer that’s gonna cover those costs! My family owns a large tractor dealer for over 30 years. I’m very familiar with the bullshits other dealers pull.
I have a 2001 B2410 4WD HST. It has less than 500 hours on it, but use it for all kinds of jobs from rough cutting, finish mowing, to back hoe work and never let me down. Only complaint is the placement of the brake pedals makes them useless when trying to brake steer. It has a woods backhoe on it, with PTO pump so the tractor hydraulics aren't used for it. Back then the Kubota was less expensive than the similar JD, but having had the Kubota now for 19 years, the JD might have been a better tractor due to the loader being easy on/off and brake pedal on the left where it can be easily used. Back then, I didn't know jack about tractors, just moved to a 5 acre farm for horses, but now I know what to look for in a tractor.
I have an LS 4155C with a backhoe. it's been amazing and has made me some money on the side. All I've had was a hydraulic hose bust at about 200 hrs. It took me about 8 hrs to replace it because I'm not really a mechanic and one end connected back in the firewall. Very hard to get to. I understand about resale but there is also something else. Purchase price. Kubota wanted 63k for a comparable model. Deere wanted 68k and less warrantee. I paid 38k out the door . It may not have the resale value but at that price, who cares. I could never afford a tractor in the 60k range. Everyone that sees my tractor loves it. It's absolutely a fine looking machine. Most think its a New Holland. Funny because it actually is a New Holland boomer. In fact, if you look at the LS logo, it says "LS New Holland".
LS makes the tractors for new holland, new holland only makes their own loaders. I have a couple LS tractors and they are great! My XJ2025H blew a backhoe regulator at 240 hard use hours, my dealer picked it up and installed a remote hydraulic system and had it back in 2 days, all covered under warranty. The only other issue I've had is the muffler busting the welds but that was a 20 minute fix. I use my tractors commercially and they've held up to a lot of abuse
I have an LS MT125 and it’s been great to me. I have one neighbor with a JD1023 and another neighbor with a JD1025R and my LS was thousands cheaper than there JD’s and the LS is hands down a better tractor in my opinion, and my neighbors also.
Thanks for your videos, really good information all around. Been around tractors all my life but haven’t really dealt with any of the “compact” size at all. Borrowed a neighbors for a quick job around my orchard and it opened my eyes what many other jobs I can do with it compared to my full size tractors. Now I’m trying to convince my boss to get one lol
Absolutely correct about the dealerships, that's the biggest reason I absolutely hate GM products. Had a local dealership that gave me the run around, service sucked, the dealership sucked. Took my business elsewhere. It's the same with "ag dealerships". If their service isn't up to par, leave them, go somewhere else. Great video, cheers :)
I agree with you. I bought my last GM car in 1978, Buick Electra 225 Limited. Had two pieces of plastic facia on driver door crack at 76 miles, at 14,000+ had rear engine seal caused leaks they fixed after warranty(thanx),after that had sticking valve lifters until exwife traded it for a VW Golf. Buick model engine, UCK!!!!! I bought Fords and MOPARs until now, never been happier!
Just a side note, tractors from the 60s, 70s, 80s, can still be very reliable, with a little maintenance. I can vouch for a Ford 3000 and the Case/David Brown 1594, both very good tractors.
I'd much rather have one of these old beasts. Everything these days need a laptop and a computer science degree....waste of time. I can fix an old Ford with a few spanners.
Yes the E is a value priced unit but if it provides the the features you want why pay more. The 3R series does have better capability but probably will cost about $5k more. I have a 3032E and think its great, I considered a 2R series (again more $) but front tires on mine 4 inches larger in diameter while the rear are 7 inches larger than the 2032R. My old tractor was getting stuck in soft fields the E is much more capable. When pulling logs in the woods, the ground clearance is also an asset. I believe the loader arms are larger and spaced wider on the 3 series (compared the the 2). You cannot simply look at lift capacity, width is necessary for stability. Not sure but I think the 3E may be as much as much as 11 inches wider than 2032R in overall width. Lastly, when in my yard I see the lower weight of 3E advantageous over the 3R to reduce marking of the turf.
Minimal difference in ground clearance, a few inches difference in width, the 2r weighs more than the 3e, 3 point lift capacity is identical. I still sell the 3e. I mention that in the video. The point is that I believe it's mislabeled as a 3 Series due to the 2r redesign and the significant overlap along with the gigantic gap between the 3e and 3r.
I bought a used 3038E and I am happy with it. The loader cannot be removed, but I have no need to remove it. I purchased a new 1025R without a loader for the other stuff. The 3038E does have the quick tatch bucket, so changing out to the pallet forks is really easy. The issue with ballast is the same for all compact tractors. Don't try to lift things without it. The manual even says so.
Was looking at a 2032R but went with the much cheaper 3025e. With all the money I saved on the tractor I could afford several more implements. I don’t understand the complaints about the 2 range hydrostatic transmission. I’m always in low range while working the tractor and almost never find myself wanting to go faster than the max speed in low range. I guess if you are driving on a road the high range would come in handy, but why all the anxiety about the lack of medium.
I was so excited to get my JD 1023 until I had it - constantly overheats. Update. Had called my local dealer who honored the warranty and has now been a month.. no more issue. Has not overheated once since the JD certified tech came out and fixed it at no cost to me.
Tier 4i and Tier 4 final all have their issues. In the south we see a lot of failures due to heat. It’s the newest technology to hit the market and manufacturers are working out the bugs but it really stinks when the customer bears the burden of down equipment, litigating warranty claims and paying exceptionally high repair cost.
agreed, heat and operator error, putting around they dont like, and will regen often, i have 650 hrs on my 3350, and id buy it again knowing what i know now, its a great tractor that can be finiky , if the owner dosent operate it properly.
Thanks for the review - Live on 5 acres I've put 200hrs on my BX23s and absolutely love that thing. Did a lot of research beforehand and bought on merit, not colour - Spends most of its life digging out huge stumps out in pretty hard clay. Admittedly i do push it to its limits but I will say the lift capacity of the FEL is quite limited due to the 4 in 1 bucket which apparently is quite a bit heavier than a standard bucket. If I did it again I would opt for the standard bucket and Grapple attachment. I live in Australia and the skid steer attach system is not standard here.
Dunno why a quick attach to a front end loader is such a foreign concept tractor salespeople in Australia. It’s like they do not think anyone would ever want anything but a bucket on the loader.
Very good information. I own a 2305 that I bought new in 2007 and fortunately I had joined a forum and was aware of the hidden grease zerks. What I did on mine was have a hydraulic company drill a hole on the end cap of the u joint and had it tapped to the correct thread for the grease zerk fitting. Now I grease away with no worries. Now the fan is another story. I attached an after market fan guard because you have to take the tractor apart just to install that plastic fan. I have heard that some owners just cut and reglue the fan. So far no issues.
I own the 3038e, you could not of said it better. Way Too Light. When I bought it was affordable HP and a Turbo at 2200ft is a must. The original owner sold it at 88hrs after scaring himself silly using the loader without ballast. Without ballast I was able to lift the back wheels off the ground by jumping in the bucket, I only weigh 160lbs lol. I really do love the 3038e, but the love affair only started once I bought 220lbs of wheel weights just for mowing, and making a custom 100lb bumper brush guard for the front . The 3038e is probably the best mowing rig money can buy. If you want to lift anything with the loader get at least 700lbs on the three point hitch. In order to love the 3038e you must fully understand ballast, without ballast this tractor is a lemon.
Kuboya just discontinued the 3350 and 2650 replacing it with LX series and the tractor that took place of the 3350 has common rail like a l3301 or l3901 so the problems should be gone as the L series common rail DPF worked pretty good
I do agree with you they do have issues. Lots of emissions issues. But kubota has lifetime warranty on the emissions now. The dealer has to do a specific list and make sure it has certain codes but we have fixed quite a few tractors and put update kits on them so they are trying.
I once cracked the PTO clutch on my 2011 JD 2520. Not sure why, but I blame hitting a root with the post hole digger and the shear pin jamming. Didn't realize I had done it until the snow blower wouldn't turn off in the winter. Over $6000 to repair at the JD dealer. The repair was 100 pages of manual for the disassembly. So talked to the regional JD rep and they covered half the cost even though I was out of warranty.
I love my john deere 3046r. It's a 2014 model and haven't had any issues with it. Probably only ran the regen a handful of times. One flaw I see about those is the regen coming out the top of the hood. Rain can fill up the regen exhaust pipe and possibly rust it out and cause other problems. So my easy fix was to install a exhaust cap. I have to to Take it off to open the hood but I don't care it does the job at keeping rain from getting in there.
My kioti 2410 has steel stress everywhere. They are under structurally engineered and when parts break getting a dealer to help is underwhelming. Thanks sir. Semper fi
I’ve got the 2380 with the MMM, not drive over. I have no complaints thus far and have no issues with third party implements front or rear. I’ve had it for about 4 months now and around 100 hours. Loader stand does seem a bit pieced together but no complaints from this guy
I’ve got a B3350. I live in Tennessee and we’re basically always gone in the winter time. The tractor is great except for occasional overheating and automatic shutdown while doing a regen in extreme heat. When it shuts down it’s out of commission for a few hours until it cools down. Happens twice a year at most. When it does regen I’m careful to let it complete before shutting it down. Sometimes that means letting it stand at full throttle for 20 minutes. No problems the few times I’ve operated it in cold weather. Cold here is in the 20’s or 30’s. It’s three years old and has 400 hours. When the warranty is up I’ll look into having it deleted.
ive got a 2015 B3350 in northern mi, 650 hrs, this summer was the first time it got hot and shut down, 90 deg, high humidity, ac blowing, mowing grass, 30 min cool down good to go, i love the tractor, seems to be regenerateing more often lately, i keep rpms up, but not religiously when the task doesnt require it, ill look into deleting maybe this winter, its the perfect tractor for me, plenty of power for 33 hp
John Higgs I’m pretty good about keeping it clean. I don’t think that’s it. Dealer acts like they’ve never heard of such problems. I think it only happened once this summer. It was probably 98F in direct afternoon sunlight and I could definitely feel the heat coming from the DPF. It’s not repeatable, so hard to show the dealer. I don’t like it, but not enough inconvenience to spend time trying to sort it out. Otherwise I’ve really enjoyed the machine. Wish I had the backhoe, but it looks pretty tough to put on and take off.
When I was getting local pricing between the BX23S and 1025R with backhoe, the JD came in $4300-4700 or 24-26% higher than the Kubota. The JD dealers didn’t want to budge and their financing was a joke compared to Kubota. Kubota got my business.
You're right JD scared me off their 0% isn't 0% the salesman acted like I was blessed he would even sell me one wanted 4800 down. I went down the road and found the new RK model rk25 I really liked it and thought kabota would be like jd but that wasn't true kabota is true 0% I learned this after I ordered my rk with is 5.9% I figure if I pay it off in 3yrs I'll save 3000 - 3800 is it worth it idk but I really like it, it's really tough and more powerful than i expected if I had it to do over I'd probably went with kabota but I'm not disappointed but no means but I'll never consider a JD again
@@Drewmack22 I guess technically it would be but they wanted 4800 down to get 0% then carry insurance with them kobota didn't ask for none of that. I might regret not getting kobota but so far I like my RK the amount I save depends on how long it takes to pay it off
Great Video. I agree with you to a point. Kubota and John Deere do hold their Value better. I ended up with a kioti. The John Deere was my first choice went to 2 dealers in my area both did not seem interested in selling me a tractor. Kubota dealer was the same. The kioti dealer he was on his game. We got a good price. They have good warranty. So far parts and service have been great. I have been on the selling side as well so I understand programs how that all works. I think there are alot of good subcompacts on the market as well as John Deere and Kubota. I paid 4000 less for my kioti over deere. So that makes up some of the resale. Besides I think those who work hard for the sale deserve my business.
My opinion is Kioti has really been on their game. Their quality has been getting better with time and it seems that Kubota has been cheapening up their quality lately. I'm not saying that Kioti is better than kubota but they are a serious contender.
@@ifyoutip I agree. We have had out Kioti for 9 months now. We had one issue with glow plugs dealer picked it up at their cost fixed problem under warranty plus did first service(50hr) That little tractor impresses me daily what its capable of.
Been fixing them for 50 years and know which ones are a pain to own. Top of my list is Yanmar although they have improved some. Painting them green helped but still a headache. I would never own one. Anything I call government tractors that need to regenerate def run from, especially the early ones.
I bought a BX23S, spent 2 month researching and debating different models and options I have 53 hours in 4 weeks, and a full time job that doesn't involve the tractor I went with a 3 pt finish mower instead of drive over mid mount...I am so glad I did At first I was set on a mid mower, now I can't image why I would ever want one on a tractor like this or bigger mows lawn length great and can lift higher for longer weeds and even smaller brush Consider the above if the only criticism of the BX series is how the mid mover attaches
I have a bx2680 and use it for bushhogging and some light box blading. i have no complaints. Its super easy to get into tight places and great on bush hogging steep slopes. I would not buy a belly mower anyway. I would just use a zero turn mower as a finishing mower.
I’m in South Georgia. Mine could not be repaired. It’s a joke. Do not buy the 3350. Trust me. Half the hours on my machine were from running tests in the shop over regen. To top it off I had the 2650 running at the same time. It will run circles around the 3350. Just trust me. Run from the 3350.
The LX3310 he mentions in the video has a totally new engine with the regeneration system from the larger Kubotas. Watch this Messicks video for the explanation ua-cam.com/video/Q9mR-VG5eFs/v-deo.html
Anything with DEF & EGR SUCKS. I'm from Maine and we have a Pete 379 with all the bullshit in it and it's the one truck that's in the shop nearly weekly. All of our other trucks are pre-emission trucks and zero issues.
I live in Alaska have seen companies pay the dealership to rebuild trucks from the frame up before buying new trucks. Automatic shut downs when idling ‘too’ long - 40 below outside is a stupid written code in the programming.
@@clintonboyer1217 ours doesn't shut down idling at least not normally. It is however always in the shop for some issue with the DEF, EGR or other engine related issue. It's also the only Cummins we have. All the other trucks are either Cat or Detroit powered.
On the JD 2305 they claim the problem is the u joint going dry rusting and breaking. I can get to the u joint from underneath but it that small you can't get the head of a grease gun on fitting while straight it has to be removed to grease good.
I bought a Mahindra the last year of no emission controls. 55 hp. 2wd. Wish I'd bought 4wd. No issues, none. I priced JD and New Holland. They were thousands higher. My brother has a 4wd 65 hp Mahindra that is 4 years older than mine zero problems, cattle farmer, bales lots of big bales, some custom work. A guy offered me more than mine cost new so he wouldnt have to mess with emissions, you know the tier engines. Or are they the tears in your eyes engine.
Honestly, id take the offer and run. I just bought a 6075 mahindra 4x4. Love it so far. I sold my 2013 mahindra 4045 45hp 4x4. Guy jumped on it in less than 4 hrs and paid a little more than i did. Basically got a free trailer thanks to it.
@@supporterofeverythingyouli6255 , My Mahindra, I purchased new 20 yrs ago and has been a great tractor. You may not like them but that doesn't make them garbage. I could say the same about any tractor out there but it would not be True.
@@dwest7268 20 years old is probably OK I looked at them hard in 15 they were shit broke some plastic just getting on it, didn't start right away the guys telling me how he always adds an extra fuel pump to everyone he sells cause the pumps are weak, needless to say I left and didn't look back.
I put 700 hours on a B3350 in the U.P. Of Michigan. Never had 1 issues. It is well known you have to run a B3350 hot ie full throttle. Another old timer in town had same machine thought 1800 rpms was good enough, had nothing but problems. Got a new L3560 LE and have issues with relays and shut downs. 38 hours on it.
Don’t be color blind buying a tractor, great advice. So many people only buy a certain colors and miss out on great equipment. Every manufacturer out their has sold a headache, why I hate buying new. You are the tester on new models and pay a lot more. Fixed to many Yanmars painted green and some expensive repairs. The cable shift linkage let’s them drop into two gears when it stretches and gets expensive. I had a lot of problems with people overheating the Yanmars and scoring liners. I rebuilt many, some of the old ones didn’t even have water pumps. A light would come on but by than it was already toasted. You are talking about newer equipment that came out after l slowed down, most covered under warranty, some not. My experience on it is not as good as yours. Thanks for the information, I have a Mahindra in my barn I purchased after buying a New Holland gutless wonder for myself and it’s been great. They switched from reading HP at rear of tractor to the useless back of engine rating and I didn’t catch it and bought a 33 HP tractor that produced 16 at best at rear. Avoid the mitsubishis engine but the ones with the Mahindra engine are great. The glow plug regulator on the small ones burn up regularly and are costly. The power to the glow plugs becomes to low to produce heat. I found it’s enough to still run a regulator and fix it permanently that way bypassing their system but still having the dash light and everything else work. Mahindra ran to much power through the computer and it can’t handle it.
Good Video. I chosen to buy the 2020 New Holland TBL 4x4 25hp Diesel for much less money then Kubota or John deer with a 7 year bumper to bumper warranty Zero down and 1.3 % interest. To work my Homestead . I should have this unit for life , So resale is really not in question. Reliability and Durability are much more important to me .
Great video. Bought JD 1026R first year out best thing I ever bought. All has worked as it should mowing, Loading, plowing snow. It's like a Swiss army knife for yard work. 700 hours later works like the day I bought it. GO GREEN.
I purchased a kioti CS2510 because it was Just so much cheaper than Deere. The closest Kubota dealer is 1.5hrs away and I have 2 kioti and 2 Deere dealers within 45mins. The Deere was $4k more and I felt that it’s features were just not that much nicer than the kioti. Kioti has been a solid machine so far
Kioti's have a greater hydraulic flow in general and that alone is a huge selling point. Maybe not the CS but anything above is. I had a Bobcat CT235 (CK35) with loader and backhoe for 8.5 years with never the slightest problem besides a couple electric relays that went. Financial emergency forced me to sell in a rush.
This is why you learn to repair And this is why you buy 70ties tractor. It will be emission exempt! It does not have any of these emmission contraptions. Find one in relatively good condition, learn to fix it, and forget all the modern tractor headache. AC? Trust me I can build one, a car style on the tractor, if wanted to. I don't want to have anything to do with a modern tractor, I'd rather stock up on parts for an old model tractor, than have what people have with the modern. That is for the small use I have. If I was full time into farming, I'd research heavily, as that kind of situation will call for a modern tractor
You did a good job putting this together. I completely agree on the 3 series. I was shopping a few months ago and comparing to the Kubota. I thought I really wanted a JD. For anyone who sits on them and puts these machines side by side there its just no comparison. I know even both manufacturers compare these two tractors against each other, but in my opinion they aren't in the same class. When I asked the JD salesman why would JD would want to make their rear ends out of aluminum , he said to keep the hydro fluid cool. Lol. Im sure the JD is realiable and may be the right tractor for some people, but not for me. I could have been just as easily buying Green but the 3R wad out of my price range. So My Kubota L2501 was priced below the JD3025. I don't know could be a dealer giving me a better deal or regional pricing thing? Don't know. Anyway good video, always learn and enjoy. Keep them coming
Guess you didnt know that the 3 series engines are Bigger in displacement and TORQUE than the 2 or 1 series. More ground clearance, better turning radius. The E series is NOT for lawn maint. though.. They are best compared to a Ford 9N which served for half a century as a reliable utility tractor. The aluminum rear DOES in fact help with heat. The 3D has cast iron and is a gear tractor and is Cheaper to buy. The aluminum was NOT a cheap way out, cast iron would have been.
I had the exact same buying experience. Looked at the 3E vs the L2501 and went for the 2501. Seamed like a bigger heavier tractor for the money and I also ended up paying less than the deere (both new). I grew up with both so was pretty impartial to either brand
I'm not new to the tractor world so to speak, but I am new to today's tractors. I grew up with my dad owning a 1948 farm all "c", and a 1930 JD model "A". I used them, and had some familiarity with both of them, but up to about 3 years ago, I had never used any other tractor. Now I'm looking into a tractor, and I'm not really sure which way to go. I can say that I have a friend who owns a JD 2305, and it's predecessor a JD 2210(I think), and I have used both of them, and I love them. I also really liked using my wife's boss's Kubota b series tractor. Both are very nice machines, and really good general tractors. In looking, one of the battles I'm facing is size. I don't want a huge tractor, but I'm not sure about too small of one either. The tractor I've really taken a liking to is the Bobcat 2025. But I'm not really sure. I'm not really worried about price depreciation, because if I buy, my intention is to buy one to keep, but I also realize your point about it. Do you have any suggestions?
Thomas, if you want GWT's opinion, give him a call. If you want public opinion, mine is John Deere. The ROPS system does fold down, unless of course you get a cab. The quickness and ease of attaching and removing the loader is mind blowing. My 1025r is awesome and surprisingly good for torque. It shuttles my 29' camper around! (I do use the sway bars and load the bucket when moving the camper.) Bobcat may sell a decent tractor, but unless it is 2/3 the price of JD or less it isn't worth it. Just my two cents.
Thank you Charles. I like the John Deere, and it's a strong runner, but the bobcat is a little better priced and has some awesome features that the deer doesn't in the size I'm looking for.
After owning a 3 series and a 4 series I will never ever go green again. They are over priced junk. I grew up with John Deere tractors being the best you could buy but they have nose dove hard and are just crap now. I traded a Kubota l3800 that worked circles around my bigger JD 4044e. I kept my equipment the kubota ran without a problem and the JD can not handle it without a struggle and setting off a hydro alarm. It has been back to John Deere and tested within their specifications so it just built under powered for the size of tractor.
I can't argue with any of your facts as presented, very unbiased discussion. I was looking at the 3025e JD and the L2501 Kubota and bought the Kubota. Yep, it was more expensive. I have 200 hours on it now and I bought it with the BH77 backhoe. Everyone told me, oh, you will rarely use it. It is my most used attachment. Everything from planting a tree, trenching, demolition, or digging up stumps. I wish JD wasn't trying to meet a price point and would just make a better compact tractor in that arena.
I have a Kioti CK20 and I bought a backhoe att. for it. This is my first Tractor. I bought it about 10yrs ago and I have to tell you for a small tractor, it has been an excellent choice. I have had absolutely no issues with this tractor except, well, I wished it had more power. But, for a 22hp machine, I will not complain. I do not regret this purchase..Yet.
I've had 2 new compact tractors in the last 20 years...a yanmar cub and mahindra 1526... Never had any issues with either that wasn't something silly, like blowing hoses, clogged fuel filters ect... All compact tractors are very similar regardless of brand... They are very well built machines overall.. in most cases where a machine won't start or starts and dies it's usually related to the fuel system or something that has rattled loose from all of the vibration... I would try to get the largest frame size you can , and then save money on buying the versiom with the least horse power....in most cases the same hydraulic system is used on all HP versions of said model, therefore you'll get the same lift capacites and ect. Unless your are brush hogging 15+ acres of very tough grass or other PTO heavy takes for long periods of time your better off putting money towards higher lifter capacities/larger tractor than higher horse power engine options.
I recently got rid of my Mahindra eMax 25 HST. Parts were the main issue for me. On average I waited 5 weeks for simple parts. The network just isn’t there. Second was how much physical effort it took to connect and disconnect the mower deck (I’m disabled). I went with the 1025R. I’m super pleased so far - 37 hours in. Our local JD dealer is not the best on the small tractors, but that’s my only real complaint. My Mahindra was a dependable tractor for sure, but if you need a part you’re going to be down a long time.
Kioti is a really great tractor. Kioti built most of the Kubota tractor parts. Ck2610 will smoke any green or orange tractor on lift and weight spec's, hydro pump is 13 gmp way faster for backhoe use. I've owned many tractors my pick in the end is Kioti. Keep in mind that not one compact tractor is made in the USA. Stick with South Korean or Japan except LS AKA the newer New Holland. Also if all you need is a tractor for alittle work the Chinese, Ag king, foton, jinma are pretty darn good, but a raybestos clutch upgrade is needed. Plus the rubber parts are well, Chinese. Stay away from 2 and 4 bangers stick with the 3 cyl. Anyway if you can come across any Yan Mar grey market tractors they are super.
I have an RK55 hst 4x4 with cab and loader. Made by TYM in South Korea. It has a Yanmar engine. I love it and recommend people give them or LS or Kioti a look before you buy anything. I compared John Deere and Kubota but neither had anything close to what my tractor is for the price. I've also spent many years working with tractors and heavy equipment and there's no question the TYM is built heavy duty. For those that care about such things it also comes with an 8-year unlimited warranty.
Just picked up my first ever tractor. Kioti 4010SE HST. I did lots and lots of research. Solid tractor for the best price around. Kubota L2501 with a plastic canopy, filled tires, loader and box blade was going to cost me 25k after tax. I got the Kioti 4010SE HST for 31k with all of the SE upgrades (tilt steering, cruise control, mirrors, dual rear hydraulics, link pedal, floor mats, etc), steel canopy, box blade, forks and an 18ft pipe top trailer. (The trailer costs $5,300 from Big Tex) 23.9 HP Kubota vs a 39.6 HP Kioti. Do your research and check out Kioti.
I have a Kubota made in 1977 and it still runs like a Swiss watch. It is my very best friend. If I need to move something or pull something then it is always there and never failes to burst into life.
Great video! I had decided to buy a Kubota but after watching this and learning that Kubota bailed on their customers that were having problems with the regen system, I think i'm going to look elsewhere. That is truly disgraceful. Why would you sit by and let so many customers suffer because of your mistake? Do better Kubota.
They have stood by those customers. That B3350 now has lifetime warranty on certain parts of the emissions. And they also have made up grades to the system to improve reliability.
I make $1200 to $1500 a week using my 3025e. It has paid for itself 8 times over. I do loader work. Gravel and dirt install. Some picking up hay bales. And of course brush hogging. It's more about the operator than the tractor to get maximum use out of any machine. Have a good dealer to count on is number 1 over which model you chose
I really enjoy your no nonsense direct approach. You don't equivocate much and you have the right value approach. The brand loyalists tend to overlook compromises, I don't think you do. Having said that, I spend most of my time between a John Deere 310 SE, a Cat 304C CR mini ex and a Takeuchi TL 140. I work installing and performing maintenance on Municipal water lines. Several years ago I had the chance to run a John Deere 110 for a week on some property we had in West Virginia. I really was impressed with that machine and am considering one for a personal TLB for side jobs. I know it's out of production so I'm also looking at the Kubota TLB's, the L47 and I believe the L63? Do you have any experience with any of these and if so, what are your thoughts? Would love a dedicated video on these more robust commercial tractors. Thanks in advance. James
Massey 1725. 300 hrs. Built a log cabin with it. Drug hundreds of logs home with it. Dug field tile and repaired. Put in water and electric lines. I haven't bought anything for it yet. The dealer is 8 miles away and I haven't neede them. Only thing id change is the seat. Going from how to drive is a pain.
I have a 2014 B3350SU, bought by private sale at 179hr. Yes, it had DPF regen problems - but the local dealer here in Maine, fixed it under warrantee. I've had no issues since the fix - though the regens are always annoying. My understanding is, Kubota spent millions fixing the B3350 regen issues. If they wouldn't fix the issues off warrantee, that would be bad. I love my B3350, but hate the government mandated DPF pollution abatement BS.
Glad to hear they took care of you. Even for those that do get help, many are in and out of the shop repeatedly. More time in the shop than using. Frustrating experience.
In 4 years i have only had one shut down during regen, I was mowing in 90 deg high humidity 10 minutes into regen and the tractor flat out died, waited 30 minutes fired back up and did a parked regen, I blow snow in -20 winters , never has failed to start and i make sure to run at high rpms, no putting around. I love the tractor, plenty of power, perfect size for people with a big yard.
Loader capacity on the bx can be increased. The pressure can be checked with gauge and shims installed under the pressure relief spring to up the operating pressure. Many leave the factory on the low side of spec. Also the spring weakens over time, dropping pressure.
The BX is junk. My BX24 could not lift empty bucket at idle. I also had a Deere 2305 (made in Japan). It lifted 2 overweight men at idle. Then again, the BX has and always has a dinky fan cooled transmission.
Saw a video on another channel about a guy doing this on his new BX23S. Someone from his dealership watched the video and told him it would void warranty. His next video was him removing the shim kit :)
@@GoodWorksTractorsI just bought a 2006 BX24D with 386 hours on it. looks good, runs great, has had all maintenance done on time. but she's weak in the liquid area. i don't think i need to worry about my warranty being voided at this point. thanks for the tip/trick to get more out of my tractor!
I bought a 2003 Kubota B21 loader backhoe a few years ago. Hydraulic lines are the only repair. It’s well balanced with the backhoe on it. No emissions controls on it so it may be my last tractor. Hope I can get parts for it in the future.
Actually, as an former engineer (Ford) and bred-raised kid from farm country, this is very important video. Please tell us about the "bad" of some tractors - for farmers who's income/production depends heavily on good dependable tractors, this information is critical. Nowadays, farmers cannot service many of their machines idiosyncrasies and has to have the dealers make a "housecall" or worse have to ship the tractor back to the dealership via tractor-trailer trucks right in the middle of the harvesting season. We have several backup tractors just to cover that scenario, it is very expensive. Thank you, Ciao, L (Morningside and Starlight Farms, Inc)
You don’t buy a SCUT for its loader capacity. I picked up my BX23S with a 60” mmm for 2 grand less than a 1025R without a mower. I liked the Deere, but the hydraulics were smoother on the Bota. Both excellent options.
I have a friend with the 1025R.. it's loader can definately lift more than my father's BX...BUT we can all use the loader with more smoothness on the BX even my friend used to his tractor. Not sure what the difference is in the hydraulics but doing a lift an curle on the BX is easier... which is fine if the BX can lift what you need it to. The 1025R does seem more robust just harder to work with finess for those of us used to Kubota hydraulics.
That is very surprising to hear because Deere has the best warranty around and rarely have issues. We used to sell kubotas and Deere..... & kubotas to 3 deere was the ratio in the shop on warranty issues.
Regen. My own nightmare. Yet not in a tractor but in my truck. 2008 F350. The only real problem I have. I cant engine idle, I cant do long warm ups, I can just drive in town, I cant drive with an soft foot. When it does it in 30 miles I loose an extra 75 miles of fuel. Just to clean out an exhaust pipe. I'm trying to rap my head around that with an tractor. That would be an way worse nightmare.
Keep Mahindra in mind when looking for a tractor. They don't have any current models with regen, filters, etc. Every Mahindra 75 HP and lower doesn't even use DEF. The 85 HP and up do use it but no regen and no filters to fool with. I have a 100 HP and you drive it just like you would any old style tractor. It has a def tank but you don't have to do anything special. It is a Godsend over the def nonsense equipment. The 6065 and 6075 are large frame tractors with plenty of power and no def at all. Mahindra spent some serious money redesigning their engines to comply with the emission and not have to install the def systems.
@@83Yankee I had to trade it in for another truck. My lender on that truck took my interest rate from 4.6% to 15%. Wright now it should have been paid off. With the 15% it would take an extra 7 years to pay it off. So I down sized. Yet still have a lot of power and torque for what I need. An F150 2020 3.5 ecoboost. This lender has me at an end date. Very pleased with them. I have never had an vehicle with this much technology. Yet very happy with it. So it will work out. Thanks though.
Anybody else have issue with all your videos volume ? To be able to hear you I Have to turn volume all the way up ( been like that for awhile, only on your videos ) turning volume up every time not a big deal but when the commercials come on during video sounds like gonna blow the speakers - just me or others have that problem ? Matt F
Been told that several times recently. No idea what I'm doing differently and everything is completely normal on my end. I'll have to keep messing with it. Sorry for the troubles.
When you started out I was laughing just thinking to myself....... WOW there are going to be a bunch of feathers getting ruffled................ Largely because no one especially in these current times likes anyone else's opinion. Totally agree with everything you said and yes my 3032E made your list LOL but everything has a purpose. The 3032E is a gap filler for me and I didn't get a 3038E because 2K for 6 HP??? yeah not needed so didn't spend it. (Might have been a HP video you made that helped with that.) If it was my only tractor then yes "R" series without blinking, but it is for light work and that's what it does. If I know I need a bigger machine then I just go get that one first way easier and do the mop up with the "E'". But I found this to be positive and informational and I will "not" be placing your photo on a dart board for being honest. Have a better day!
Agree with the 2305, but more on the wire harness side, there are diodes in the harness just completely wrapped in electrical tape that you have to cut it all apart to find, fyi 40hrs is a little high for a dealer to quote, most transmissions of that style is only a 3 day job
Watch over working with loaders on kioti. Pushing stumps etc... You know u will try. Main frame bolts will snap way easier than on deere or kubota. Other than that fine
Pretty disappointed Kubota didnt take care of the regen issues for folks. I have an L3301 and hate the regen stuff. Instructions in the owners manual were slightly wrong. I called Kubota dealership and talked to a mechanic and he walked me through it. I rewrote the modified instructions down in my manual. The only other issue I have had with the 3301 is it is a little tippy. Almost turned it over on flat ground moving slow. I had a full loader bucket bit had it low. Still almost turned over. I also wish I had gotten a tractor with more hp.
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I hope to be hearing from you, about the John Deere 3025 you have in stock.
2 points. 1 at least make sure you video can be heated. To your not that pretty get to the fucking point.
@@jwoldner3926 WTH, YOUR COMMENT DON'T MAKE FUCH MUCKING SENSE
.....the worst tractor you can buy is one that doesn't have local support.
that's Kubota. Terrible resources and support with insane consumables and parts pricing. Garbage
@@mattbotten9519 great to know. was thinking aobut getting one but shopping around now
@@hicksminingcompanyboy you’re easily influenced by just one response on social media.
Having a visual image of the models & issues inserted into the video would help tremendously.
Agreed 👍.
2:13 Kubota B3350
5:07 JD 2320
7:37 Kubota BX Series (toys compared to the 1025r)
9:55 JD 3E Series
For those with regen issues with the B3350. It is a mechanical Deisel. The sensors determine the need for regen purely by increased back pressure detected by the sensors. Simply take off your DPF filter canister, cut it in half, remove the filter media, have the canister welded back together and reinstall. No ECM flash need because as I said it has mechanical injectors. With no filter to clog the sensors will not detect back pressure and will not have the computer call a regen cycle. This mod alone is a game changer for a B3350.
Shouldn’t have to do that though. A manufacturer as large as Kubota should be helping those facing the issues. They can afford it. They made the problem... they should help with a resolution. They sold, and continued to sell, a defective product. Manufacturers need to be held accountable for pushing subpar products at premium prices and then being allowed to get away with it. It’s not just Kubota either. Many manufacturers have been using similar tactics. Take Ford for example. They pushed out the first gen 3.5 ecoboost platform and charged the new owners a premium for a flawed product. They tried to patch the issues but ultimately had to redesign the platform. Who paid for all that? The end users. Ford didn’t do much to help those they used as product testers. They made the end user fund their trials. The first gens are still desirable for being steel bodies... but people don’t want to buy that janky first gen ecoboost... so the resale values are basically nothing. Many shops don’t even want to work on ecoboost platforms and people are forced to go to the dealership. You can look at $10k plus for engine replacement. In a truck that MIGHT sell for $13k on a good day. 😂
@@TsunauticusIV end user pays for everything thats to be expected but what isnt to be expected is wasting your time. They need to test it better before selling it.
@@TsunauticusIV Another thing with the eco crap is it really annoys me how it gets pushed down on the working class. You ever see Amazon's fleet of tractor trailers? Make those electric. Make the freighters hauling goods from China electric. Swap out the coal plants. After that THEN bust my chops about my consumer vehicle that runs a couple hours a week.
@@dcgregorya5434 the electric motors would need to be produced with green energy to truly reduce carbon output
@@snowjammma Yeah, starting with the processes around extraction and refinement of raw materials isn't a bad start. But tbh I think if we wanna get anywhere we will need abundant nuclear energy plus mechanical or biological sequestration of carbon. Still, this isn't a problem for some random blue collar worker, this has to be solved upstream.
On the JD 2320 Drive shaft JD doesn't sell just the U-Joints. But if you go to NAPA auto parts you can get replacement joints that have End Cap grease fittings. So that you don't have to spend lots more on the shaft removal if you take two Industrial C-Clamps on the motor mounts you can get the shaft off. I also cut a square out of the right side and put a hole in the plate across from U-Joints to be able to grease them
People need videos like this to make an informed purchase. Tractors are to expensive to “hope” you bought a dependable one. Thank you for a fair unbiased video.
Check out tractor bobs UA-cam Chanel, even better content
I would put the JD 1025R at the top of this list. In 2015 I traded a Kubota BX for a new 1025R and I’ve never regretted anything more. My tractor has been back to the dealer 15 times, sometimes for 30+ days at a time for mower deck issues. I had to fight tooth and nail for ANY help from the dealer. It was like pulling teeth, and when it came down to it Deere didn’t honor my warranty. I’ve never owned a worse product or had a worse customer service experience. I will never buy green again. Go with Kubota.
My brother had a 1025. Deck brackets kept breaking. They’re made out of pop metal. Got rid of it. Junk.
Seems like a Lemmon and bad dealer. Not necessarily a bad tractor. Mines been rock solid and I work it hard.
You had an exception, the 1025R is the best sub compact tractor out there right now, not even close. Dealer sounds awful too.
I agree. I have a BX2660 and it's been flawless. I test drove the 1025 and the 2660. The deck on the BX was much better and the belt was twice as big. I also did not want another tractor with the plastic hood. They always get brittle and crack with the ones I've owned. You never see a John deer in landscaping around here. They are always Kubota BX tractors. I do like the double pedal on the John deer instead of heal/toe but you get used to what you drive.
I don't buy your opinion on the kubota bx series of tractors. There are so many.brands out there from rural king to Mahindra bobcat to God knows what. I am 64 and the mower deck is easy to remove and pull out. Same with reinstalling it. I hear drive overs may be more difficult to attach and detach. Kubota tractors are dependable. I seem to hear John deer and kunota are tge best. You forgot about new Holland tractors. All of those are better than the kabota bx series really? Most of the others have yanmar engines including John deer. Kubota makes their own. Something is not right with what you are saying.
Just bought my first compact tractor. It is a 2305 john deere. After watching your video I tried to grease my u joints. Can't get at them. I took it all apart and replaced them with napa j 410 u joints. I can now grease them. They have the fittings in the end of the cap.not in the center. Just a tip if you have one of these. Good video.
I have a 2305 JD also, found the ujoints when I destroyed the hydro cooling fan, did grease the ujoints when I found them, did have to remove the drive shaft which was not hard, took about 30 min. Guess I was lucky to have demolished the fan.
Branson 4520c Hasn't let me down yet and you don't even need counterweight to use the front end loader and as far as the backhoe attachment the one I picked up is a 8ft reach 16inch wide bucket mounts up as a full frame unit to reduce stress on the tractor by spreading the weight well picking up stuff. The horse power on my unit is 48 the next size up has the turbo if I can remember correctly it made 55hp same body size as mine though. Before you buy any tractor always go test drive them first.Branson really had me surprised over the rest of the market for a small compact tractor!
I have 1100 hours on my 4520r and it is great.
As you know or will soon realize, our Branson tractors far exceed these other brands in lift capacity of both the loader and the 3 point hitch. Also tighter turning radius, heavier weight, our backhoes are designed simpler, list goes on.
Working on a 1000 hour review video. Couple small issues but nothing unexpected, I definitely work mine a little than most but its like the tractor just begs for more!
I just got an L2501 & couldn’t be happier. It’s done everything I’ve needed so far like mowing pasture, box scraping my road and light loader jobs. I checked for used, but either there wasn’t any available or they cost almost as much as a new one. Some were going for only 5k less than new & were 10+ years old! 0% APR for 60 months was a big plus and there was several dealer incentives for equipment. AC cab would be nice, but I really didn’t want to pay for it. 😉
I own 3 kubota tractors. A 23, a 34 and a 75 horsepower. 0 problems with any of them! My worst was an 85 HP New Holland! It took a technician to work on any aspect of that thing! Everything on it was computer driven and you needed a degree in electronics to evaluate all of the faults that appeared daily on the dashboard! Many times you had to stop the engine and reset the computer (5 seconds)and try again! Kubotas are simple to run and (rarely) work on! Love my kubotas!
We have the b2920 and LOVE it. I've built roads on a hill with that thing that it should never have been able to do. It's all mechanical, parts are cheap and readily available. The best part is .75 GPH fuel consumption.
@Keith Chrysler Your kubota's must be older and don't have tier lV with dpf because everything over 25 hp today is computerized and require technician's to work on them.
"Why would you design a tractor that couldn't have a backhoe on it?" you say, well because a lot of folks have zero intention of paying close to $10K for a backhoe that they will never (or occasionally) need - makes no sense to spend that money for that attachment unless you have a business that needs it. Why spend the extra money on the 2R series when you don't need the drive over mower capability? If all ones needs/wants is a load and a PTO, then the 3E series make perfect sense. Heavier is not always better either when using a rotary cutter on pastures as it compacts the ground more, leading to more weeds and gets stuck easier in puggy ground. The 3E is cheaper by a lot, lifts a full 61" bucket filled with dirt w/o issue, can handle a 6ft rotary cutter or a 800lb tiller, etc. Again, if one doesn't need all the bells and whistles that an R-series provides, why pay up for it?
You're right. For the two-three DIY projects I have in mind requiring a backhoe, I'd rather rent a mini excavator for a day at a time, or hire out the machine work to a machine owner who wants side-gigs, depending which makes sense at the time. Barring an unforeseen great deal on a good used tractor that already includes one, either of those options is likely to be far cheaper in the end than buying a backhoe attachment that won't get used very often. Plus, any mini-excavator is a far superior tool for the job compared to anything you can add to a compact tractor. (That said, if I did happen to own a backhoe, I'm sure I'd find a few more uses for it.)
Well I have a John Deere 4310 and I never planned on having or needing a backhoe ether. But guess what things changed in life and I could really use one and I found a used one for $3500 model 47 with all the mounting brackets I just had to get the power beyond from JD. So my point is I didn't have to trade tractors to accomplish this.
If you look around you can get used attachments at really good prices just like tractors. And like he says all these do hold resale value. So depending on which you chose you can still recoup most of your investments ether way you go.
I bought a bx23 in 2006. I now have 1,450hrs on it and I'll keep it till it needs buried. It compliments my jobsites alongside a kx71.
I have had to weld the backhoe main boom but that is from seriously overdoing it over and over. Replaced the driveshaft but that was due to motor mounts that needed replaced to. Front loader pins are worn to junk so a rework is coming... They were greased but lots of silty mud work is like sandpaper.
I have looked at details on the 23s... Love the easier access to hydraulic oil check/fill, hate the pedal change, neato bucket changes but just hard to pull the trigger on price when my old one is still jamming away.
Back when I bought, I built a database and was comparing the similar JD model and also a MF2310. JDs price was up and they didn't make a OEM backhoe for it then, the MF was so close but the frame and some connections just didn't appear as beefy and weighed more (I had a ceiling for towing at the time). An important part was parts availability... Kubota won that out with two dealerships in the area.
Always nice to hear opinions but based on some experience.. some good info.. thanks!
IMHO, first time tractor SCUT/CUT buyers are mostly influenced by the price "sticker shock". They inevitably opt for a lower price without considering, or really understanding, the long term ramifications of limited capacities or functionalities of some tractors. If purchased properly, and carefully considering physical size, HP, capacities, attachments, hydraulics, cab vs ROPS, long term service and support, etc., a CUT tractor will easily last for many decades when put to use by a typical home/land owner. Conversely, you cannot really expect a large frame CUT, even with a MMM, to also be a "delicate lawn mower". This is when it is probably wise to purchase a dedicated "lawn mower" for that task and let your much larger tractor do the things it can do much better. All that said, if a 1025R with a MMM and its FEL and various appropriately sized 3PH attachments can really do it all for you and your needs, go for it.
Great info and thank you for taking the time to share Brad!
@@ttss5726 SCUT/CUT = (Sub) compact utility tractor, ROPS= Rolling over protection system, MMM = mid mount mower, FEL = Front end loader....and no I don't own a tractor, I just watch too many vids of GWT channel (Good Work Tractors) lol
I agree. I have a B2650 I bought new in 2017. Has @ 600 hours as of now. Other then regular maintenance and 1 flat on a front tire, no other repairs. Love it.
I have a 2013 Mahindra 3616 4wd HST. Love it. It has just under 1000hrs and not one problem. Still have the original battery in it.
Went from a deer 2018 5055e cab/loader to a new holland work master 75 cab/loader .
Pros on the Deere hydraulics and reliability blow the new holland away . Cons is the tractor got crap fuel mileage and no power .
New holland the tractor has a ton more power and fuel mileage over the Deere main reason no dpf . Cons is this is my second tractor from New holland first one couldn’t solve the ecm issue tractor wouldn’t run right . After a month they have me a new one . First issue pto cable breaks down a week. Get it back ac compressor blows up stays in shop for 3 weeks . Third time around the idler pulley bolt snaps off in block down a week. I’m done with new holland going to get a Massey Ferguson 4707 tomorrow.
I have a 2011 New Holland Boomer 35, 4x4, HST, (don't judge me..... lollll ;-) ) bought it used from a neighbour in 2013, with 95hrs now with over 1,600hrs without any problems except usual maintenance (I do it by myself) and wear and tear. I use it for partly logging my 800 + acres, lanscaping around including snowblowing my 900' driveway. I do make it to work sometimes but always in respect of his capacity, as well as my Takeuchi TB-235 excavator.
My tractor mechanic has been working on tractors for over fifty years and he says if you want a good tractor, get an old tractor and rebuild it. He stays busy working on the newer tractors because there is always something going wrong with them.
stuff today is made to break down. I see so many 49 ford tractors still running today. How many of these new piles of crap will still be going in 60+ years?
Problem is old stuff lacks features that people now want. Not that many AWD smaller tractors with good power output lots of hydraulics etc. and those that are out there are usually pretty well worn out and sometimes off market sure nothing like buying a Deere 4020 but do you need a big 2wd tractor?
@@pbgd3 I had a John Deere 4020! The older tractors I have have everything I need including rear hydraulic for implements and selective positrac. I also have a couple of newer tractors and some of the safety features are very aggravating.
I run a 2018 Kioti C3510 and it hasn’t given me any problems. 423 hours and counting.
@@johnhiggs5932 my Deutz 6806 has well over 6000 hours and I've never had to do anything to it.
As a owner in past of JD1025, BX2680, and currently B2601 I will agree with some. 1025 is bigger tractor. Feels like B2601 on undersized wheels. Both oficially fits into sub-compact, but thats all. This is similar like comparing F150 vs F250 (both full size pick ups), but what a difference. . There is difference in lifting capacity between JD1025 and BX, but isn`t as big as Tim showed in his video 1025 vs 2680. Weights on pallet for BX were placed further from pin, than for jd. I was able to lift around 600lbs excluding forks to about 1-2 feet above ground. To lift to height 2-3 feet above ground 400-450lbs. Jd1025 will lift probably 100, maybe 150lbs more. When I stepped from JD1025 to 2680 most annoying wasn`t lift capacity, but position valve control missing on 2680. Grading and all work on 3 point hitch was little more difficult. I was wondering between 2601 and JD2025. When I compared.... winner was orange. Much more efficient on fuel, plus 3 speed rear end. On the end JD completely lost telling me "Kubotas are made by illegal emigrants in Georgia". That was the only argument of sales person at Washington Tractor dealer. JD2032 or B2650 were slightly too big for my needs. I have considered New Holland and Massey Ferguson as well, but dealers were far.
I have a b3350 with cab, front loader and backhoe. I work that thing like it’s a red headed step child. The primary issues I’ve since disabled due to starting and staying running have all been related to safety switches. If you jump out the seat switch and the Hydostat trans pedals this will cure random non-start and dying when bouncing in seat. As for the DPF regen, if you run the motor above 2000 rpm you will seldom if ever need to do a park in place regen. If you live in a cold area and have issues you must remove an intake baffle to allow preheated intake air into the engine to keep dpf hot enough. A company in Poland sells a DPF delete kit but I think right now at 250 hours I don’t need it. If you get a deal on a low hour b3350, I’d take it. Mine was included with our house, if I ever leave it will go with me as the house appraisal is above the mortgage without a tractor. I look at it as $30k profit and a free toy to build sand castles all day long 😁😉🇺🇸🪵🚜
I purchased a brand new Kioti NX4510 about 4 years ago and had very little issues with it. I would highly recommend a Kioti tractor.
I bought a 2019 CK3510 and it's way better then any other Kubota I've run before, I absolutely love it. There were alot of little things that made me consider a Kioti over a Kubota and the little things matter to me.
I have the Kioti DX 40 and was farm raised with tractors, no question it's a fantastic tractor and built very strong. As good or better than Deere and Kubota and thousands less!
100% , kiotis are better tractors than kubota and most modern jd's , I like kubota but they can't compete with kioti , branson or tym in the weight , hydraulic capacity , price and in some cases warranty categories, these new to US brands that have been around for a long time elsewhere are reliable and in my opinion more of a working man's machine , and even the base models are normally set up as at least a mid teir kubota or jd but at way less$ , at that point if you have a good reliable dealer close enough , to me it seems odd to choose some fad brands like kubota when there are other's like kioti and tym that are doing great and are generally better in most ways .
I would hunt hard for a low hour,clean used tractor long before I would buy any new machine with regent.Just my opinion,you'll never sell me on new diesel technology,its not dependable and will cost you money somewhere.I bought a new 2015 L 2501,just because of the horsepower threshold of DPF,and used ones were too close to new price,so I bought new.Excellent,simple,straight forward tractor,no bells and whistles,NO ISSUES.
Im going to post some positivity about my '16 3350. I bought it nearly two years ago with 500 hrs on it. The seller was told the dealer went thru and repaired the regen system and it has worked perfect since I have owned it. I have had four regen cycles on it that went flawless...plus I never idle the engine for longer than 20 seconds.I am happy with my B3350 ( upgrade from BX2660 ) Im in central IL so we have our share of extreme weather at times.
same with mine, 650 hrs, shut down once this summer 90 deg, high humidity, ac blowing and 4 hours of mowing grass at full throttle, 30 min kool down, good to go, love the tractor, perfect size for me. ill delete if that time comes
I have 500 hrs on a BX2680 with driver over deck. I have taken the deck and FEL of many times and have not had any issues and everything is till working as good as he I got it! My biggest reason for not getting a JD was the amount of plastic on it , I like being able to take a hammer to dents :)
I own a Deutz 68hp 60's model with over 6000 hours and it still runs extremely well. Very well built tractor.
I love those old air cooled Deutz tractors! Grew up with having them on our farm!
We ha one with 14756hour
My 1981 Kubota B7100DT with over 5000 hours, With Loader,Backhoe, McConnel Arm Mower, York Rake, Post Hole Digger.1 Clutch replaced 15 years ago.Nicknamed “Tanky” Great little machine! ☘️
Is this a 70hp? I'm looking fit reviews on a 55 or 60 hp and can't find anything. Was gonna get a 70hp kubota tomorrow but also thinking about 55hp mahindra. That's the options I have that are cabbed and on the lot here in vidalia
@@bryanbatton01 no, it’s a 16 Hp! Great little “ Micro Tractor” Sorry it took so long for me to reply!
@@josephherron744 no problem. I ended up going with a 70 hp Mahindra
The bottom line is you need to find a reputable dealer in your area. No matter what brand tractor you choose: Deere, Massey, Kubota etc, they are machines and all will have issues here and there. You need to make sure your dealer stands behind the tractors they sell and give you piece of mind in the event something does go wrong. You can ask ten different people what’s the best tractor to buy and you can get ten different answers. Bottom line, your dealer is 1/2 of your consideration when buying a tractor!
When i buy a 40K tractor, i need to know the brand and dealer are gonna stand behind their product. I don’t care what you can get online. I can all the parts i need online for my car, but i use the dealer if there are issues beyond basic maintenance or repair that should be covered or if it’s too new for issues to begin.
Not everyone has the time to start ripping engines apart.
Shredxcam22 you have the time and knowledge... koodos to you for that. I just bought a Massey 2706 and all the implements, I only use it to brush hog and plant food plots. Once in a while some loader work. I don’t know the first thing about motors, and even less about diesels. Your point was exactly what I was talking about. Make sure you use a reputable dealer. I use a local Massey dealer in NY, they are awesome. Only 50 hours on the tractor.. but I expect them to get involved if I have any issues this early in the game. Just cutting down the PTO shafts once I added a quick hitch was a chore for me. Thankfully my neighbor worked on machines all his life...LOL
@@blessed7fold I purchased multiple tractor brands from multiple dealer. All I dealt with take their customers first and then will provide you service even if it’s the brand they sell. They are all like that . As far as out of warranty cost... good luck finding any dealer that’s gonna cover those costs! My family owns a large tractor dealer for over 30 years. I’m very familiar with the bullshits other dealers pull.
I have a 2001 B2410 4WD HST. It has less than 500 hours on it, but use it for all kinds of jobs from rough cutting, finish mowing, to back hoe work and never let me down. Only complaint is the placement of the brake pedals makes them useless when trying to brake steer. It has a woods backhoe on it, with PTO pump so the tractor hydraulics aren't used for it. Back then the Kubota was less expensive than the similar JD, but having had the Kubota now for 19 years, the JD might have been a better tractor due to the loader being easy on/off and brake pedal on the left where it can be easily used. Back then, I didn't know jack about tractors, just moved to a 5 acre farm for horses, but now I know what to look for in a tractor.
I have an LS 4155C with a backhoe. it's been amazing and has made me some money on the side. All I've had was a hydraulic hose bust at about 200 hrs. It took me about 8 hrs to replace it because I'm not really a mechanic and one end connected back in the firewall. Very hard to get to.
I understand about resale but there is also something else. Purchase price. Kubota wanted 63k for a comparable model. Deere wanted 68k and less warrantee. I paid 38k out the door . It may not have the resale value but at that price, who cares. I could never afford a tractor in the 60k range. Everyone that sees my tractor loves it. It's absolutely a fine looking machine. Most think its a New Holland. Funny because it actually is a New Holland boomer. In fact, if you look at the LS logo, it says "LS New Holland".
LS makes the tractors for new holland, new holland only makes their own loaders. I have a couple LS tractors and they are great! My XJ2025H blew a backhoe regulator at 240 hard use hours, my dealer picked it up and installed a remote hydraulic system and had it back in 2 days, all covered under warranty. The only other issue I've had is the muffler busting the welds but that was a 20 minute fix. I use my tractors commercially and they've held up to a lot of abuse
Wonder if I could do this with my Kiote CK4010
I have an LS MT125 and it’s been great to me. I have one neighbor with a JD1023 and another neighbor with a JD1025R and my LS was thousands cheaper than there JD’s and the LS is hands down a better tractor in my opinion, and my neighbors also.
For me the 1023e is perfect. I cut grass, push snow and haul fire wood with the loader. Small tasks on a small property. Saves my back. 💪😉🐷
I just bought a 1966 Massey Furguson 180 with Perkins diesel runs good.
Thanks for your videos, really good information all around. Been around tractors all my life but haven’t really dealt with any of the “compact” size at all. Borrowed a neighbors for a quick job around my orchard and it opened my eyes what many other jobs I can do with it compared to my full size tractors. Now I’m trying to convince my boss to get one lol
Absolutely correct about the dealerships, that's the biggest reason I absolutely hate GM products. Had a local dealership that gave me the run around, service sucked, the dealership sucked. Took my business elsewhere. It's the same with "ag dealerships". If their service isn't up to par, leave them, go somewhere else. Great video, cheers :)
I agree with you. I bought my last GM car in 1978, Buick Electra 225 Limited. Had two pieces of plastic facia on driver door crack at 76 miles, at 14,000+ had rear engine seal caused leaks they fixed after warranty(thanx),after that had sticking valve lifters until exwife traded it for a VW Golf. Buick model engine, UCK!!!!! I bought Fords and MOPARs until now, never been happier!
Well Ford and Dodge better have good dealership service if you're going to be working on it that much :P
Just a side note, tractors from the 60s, 70s, 80s, can still be very reliable, with a little maintenance. I can vouch for a Ford 3000 and the Case/David Brown 1594, both very good tractors.
Agreed...they don't make em like they used to :)
Hell yes
I'd much rather have one of these old beasts. Everything these days need a laptop and a computer science degree....waste of time. I can fix an old Ford with a few spanners.
Yes the E is a value priced unit but if it provides the the features you want why pay more. The 3R series does have better capability but probably will cost about $5k more. I have a 3032E and think its great, I considered a 2R series (again more $) but front tires on mine 4 inches larger in diameter while the rear are 7 inches larger than the 2032R. My old tractor was getting stuck in soft fields the E is much more capable. When pulling logs in the woods, the ground clearance is also an asset. I believe the loader arms are larger and spaced wider on the 3 series (compared the the 2). You cannot simply look at lift capacity, width is necessary for stability. Not sure but I think the 3E may be as much as much as 11 inches wider than 2032R in overall width. Lastly, when in my yard I see the lower weight of 3E advantageous over the 3R to reduce marking of the turf.
2038r vs 3038e Comparison ua-cam.com/video/3igxKVM_6TM/v-deo.html
Minimal difference in ground clearance, a few inches difference in width, the 2r weighs more than the 3e, 3 point lift capacity is identical. I still sell the 3e. I mention that in the video. The point is that I believe it's mislabeled as a 3 Series due to the 2r redesign and the significant overlap along with the gigantic gap between the 3e and 3r.
I bought a used 3038E and I am happy with it. The loader cannot be removed, but I have no need to remove it. I purchased a new 1025R without a loader for the other stuff. The 3038E does have the quick tatch bucket, so changing out to the pallet forks is really easy. The issue with ballast is the same for all compact tractors. Don't try to lift things without it. The manual even says so.
Was looking at a 2032R but went with the much cheaper 3025e. With all the money I saved on the tractor I could afford several more implements. I don’t understand the complaints about the 2 range hydrostatic transmission. I’m always in low range while working the tractor and almost never find myself wanting to go faster than the max speed in low range. I guess if you are driving on a road the high range would come in handy, but why all the anxiety about the lack of medium.
I was so excited to get my JD 1023 until I had it - constantly overheats. Update. Had called my local dealer who honored the warranty and has now been a month.. no more issue. Has not overheated once since the JD certified tech came out and fixed it at no cost to me.
Tier 4i and Tier 4 final all have their issues. In the south we see a lot of failures due to heat. It’s the newest technology to hit the market and manufacturers are working out the bugs but it really stinks when the customer bears the burden of down equipment, litigating warranty claims and paying exceptionally high repair cost.
Farmers should be allowed to bill the EPA for their problems.
Maybe they would think twice next time before expanding regulations.
agreed, heat and operator error, putting around they dont like, and will regen often, i have 650 hrs on my 3350, and id buy it again knowing what i know now, its a great tractor that can be finiky , if the owner dosent operate it properly.
Have you done a video on the 5 best? Love to see that. Thanks.
Thanks for the review - Live on 5 acres I've put 200hrs on my BX23s and absolutely love that thing. Did a lot of research beforehand and bought on merit, not colour - Spends most of its life digging out huge stumps out in pretty hard clay.
Admittedly i do push it to its limits but I will say the lift capacity of the FEL is quite limited due to the 4 in 1 bucket which apparently is quite a bit heavier than a standard bucket. If I did it again I would opt for the standard bucket and Grapple attachment. I live in Australia and the skid steer attach system is not standard here.
Dunno why a quick attach to a front end loader is such a foreign concept tractor salespeople in Australia. It’s like they do not think anyone would ever want anything but a bucket on the loader.
Very good information. I own a 2305 that I bought new in 2007 and fortunately I had joined a forum and was aware of the
hidden grease zerks. What I did on mine was have a hydraulic company drill a hole on the end cap of the u joint and had it
tapped to the correct thread for the grease zerk fitting. Now I grease away with no worries. Now the fan is another story.
I attached an after market fan guard because you have to take the tractor apart just to install that plastic fan. I have heard
that some owners just cut and reglue the fan. So far no issues.
Thanks, Courtney! In your position, I think your opinion is well worth listening to.
I own the 3038e, you could not of said it better. Way Too Light. When I bought it was affordable HP and a Turbo at 2200ft is a must. The original owner sold it at 88hrs after scaring himself silly using the loader without ballast. Without ballast I was able to lift the back wheels off the ground by jumping in the bucket, I only weigh 160lbs lol. I really do love the 3038e, but the love affair only started once I bought 220lbs of wheel weights just for mowing, and making a custom 100lb bumper brush guard for the front . The 3038e is probably the best mowing rig money can buy. If you want to lift anything with the loader get at least 700lbs on the three point hitch. In order to love the 3038e you must fully understand ballast, without ballast this tractor is a lemon.
Kuboya just discontinued the 3350 and 2650 replacing it with LX series and the tractor that took place of the 3350 has common rail like a l3301 or l3901 so the problems should be gone as the L series common rail DPF worked pretty good
I do agree with you they do have issues. Lots of emissions issues. But kubota has lifetime warranty on the emissions now. The dealer has to do a specific list and make sure it has certain codes but we have fixed quite a few tractors and put update kits on them so they are trying.
I bought a MaHindra 3016 new back in 2013 and as of today never one problem not one after 7 years !!!
Glad to hear it!
I once cracked the PTO clutch on my 2011 JD 2520. Not sure why, but I blame hitting a root with the post hole digger and the shear pin jamming. Didn't realize I had done it until the snow blower wouldn't turn off in the winter. Over $6000 to repair at the JD dealer. The repair was 100 pages of manual for the disassembly. So talked to the regional JD rep and they covered half the cost even though I was out of warranty.
My 2005 BX2330 is a beast and just keeps on keeping on even with the beatings I give it! Best tractor I’ve ever owned
Glad to hear it!
I love my john deere 3046r. It's a 2014 model and haven't had any issues with it. Probably only ran the regen a handful of times. One flaw I see about those is the regen coming out the top of the hood. Rain can fill up the regen exhaust pipe and possibly rust it out and cause other problems. So my easy fix was to install a exhaust cap. I have to to Take it off to open the hood but I don't care it does the job at keeping rain from getting in there.
My kioti 2410 has steel stress everywhere. They are under structurally engineered and when parts break getting a dealer to help is underwhelming.
Thanks sir.
Semper fi
I’ve got the 2380 with the MMM, not drive over. I have no complaints thus far and have no issues with third party implements front or rear. I’ve had it for about 4 months now and around 100 hours. Loader stand does seem a bit pieced together but no complaints from this guy
I’ve got a B3350. I live in Tennessee and we’re basically always gone in the winter time. The tractor is great except for occasional overheating and automatic shutdown while doing a regen in extreme heat. When it shuts down it’s out of commission for a few hours until it cools down. Happens twice a year at most. When it does regen I’m careful to let it complete before shutting it down. Sometimes that means letting it stand at full throttle for 20 minutes. No problems the few times I’ve operated it in cold weather. Cold here is in the 20’s or 30’s. It’s three years old and has 400 hours. When the warranty is up I’ll look into having it deleted.
ive got a 2015 B3350 in northern mi, 650 hrs, this summer was the first time it got hot and shut down, 90 deg, high humidity, ac blowing, mowing grass, 30 min cool down good to go, i love the tractor, seems to be regenerateing more often lately, i keep rpms up, but not religiously when the task doesnt require it, ill look into deleting maybe this winter, its the perfect tractor for me, plenty of power for 33 hp
John Higgs I’m pretty good about keeping it clean. I don’t think that’s it. Dealer acts like they’ve never heard of such problems. I think it only happened once this summer. It was probably 98F in direct afternoon sunlight and I could definitely feel the heat coming from the DPF. It’s not repeatable, so hard to show the dealer. I don’t like it, but not enough inconvenience to spend time trying to sort it out. Otherwise I’ve really enjoyed the machine. Wish I had the backhoe, but it looks pretty tough to put on and take off.
When I was getting local pricing between the BX23S and 1025R with backhoe, the JD came in $4300-4700 or 24-26% higher than the Kubota. The JD dealers didn’t want to budge and their financing was a joke compared to Kubota. Kubota got my business.
You made the right decision. The hydraulics on all John Deere’s are slow and clumsy.
You're right JD scared me off their 0% isn't 0% the salesman acted like I was blessed he would even sell me one wanted 4800 down. I went down the road and found the new RK model rk25 I really liked it and thought kabota would be like jd but that wasn't true kabota is true 0% I learned this after I ordered my rk with is 5.9% I figure if I pay it off in 3yrs I'll save 3000 - 3800 is it worth it idk but I really like it, it's really tough and more powerful than i expected if I had it to do over I'd probably went with kabota but I'm not disappointed but no means but I'll never consider a JD again
@@Hemipapa how was the John Deere not a true 0%
@@Drewmack22 I guess technically it would be but they wanted 4800 down to get 0% then carry insurance with them kobota didn't ask for none of that. I might regret not getting kobota but so far I like my RK the amount I save depends on how long it takes to pay it off
@@Hemipapa I got 0% with zero down I was able to add implements too
Great Video. I agree with you to a point. Kubota and John Deere do hold their Value better. I ended up with a kioti. The John Deere was my first choice went to 2 dealers in my area both did not seem interested in selling me a tractor. Kubota dealer was the same. The kioti dealer he was on his game. We got a good price. They have good warranty. So far parts and service have been great. I have been on the selling side as well so I understand programs how that all works. I think there are alot of good subcompacts on the market as well as John Deere and Kubota. I paid 4000 less for my kioti over deere. So that makes up some of the resale. Besides I think those who work hard for the sale deserve my business.
My opinion is Kioti has really been on their game. Their quality has been getting better with time and it seems that Kubota has been cheapening up their quality lately. I'm not saying that Kioti is better than kubota but they are a serious contender.
@@ifyoutip I agree. We have had out Kioti for 9 months now. We had one issue with glow plugs dealer picked it up at their cost fixed problem under warranty plus did first service(50hr) That little tractor impresses me daily what its capable of.
Been fixing them for 50 years and know which ones are a pain to own. Top of my list is Yanmar although they have improved some. Painting them green helped but still a headache. I would never own one. Anything I call government tractors that need to regenerate def run from, especially the early ones.
I bought a BX23S, spent 2 month researching and debating different models and options
I have 53 hours in 4 weeks, and a full time job that doesn't involve the tractor
I went with a 3 pt finish mower instead of drive over mid mount...I am so glad I did
At first I was set on a mid mower, now I can't image why I would ever want one on a tractor like this or bigger
mows lawn length great and can lift higher for longer weeds and even smaller brush
Consider the above if the only criticism of the BX series is how the mid mover attaches
Thanks for sharing DD! You're getting some quality seat time in!
I have a bx2680 and use it for bushhogging and some light box blading. i have no complaints. Its super easy to get into tight places and great on bush hogging steep slopes. I would not buy a belly mower anyway. I would just use a zero turn mower as a finishing mower.
I’m in South Georgia. Mine could not be repaired. It’s a joke. Do not buy the 3350. Trust me. Half the hours on my machine were from running tests in the shop over regen. To top it off I had the 2650 running at the same time. It will run circles around the 3350. Just trust me. Run from the 3350.
The LX3310 he mentions in the video has a totally new engine with the regeneration system from the larger Kubotas. Watch this Messicks video for the explanation ua-cam.com/video/Q9mR-VG5eFs/v-deo.html
were gonna lookin into a B series and F series for sidewalk machine replacement
Anything with DEF & EGR SUCKS. I'm from Maine and we have a Pete 379 with all the bullshit in it and it's the one truck that's in the shop nearly weekly. All of our other trucks are pre-emission trucks and zero issues.
I live in Alaska have seen companies pay the dealership to rebuild trucks from the frame up before buying new trucks. Automatic shut downs when idling ‘too’ long - 40 below outside is a stupid written code in the programming.
@@clintonboyer1217 ours doesn't shut down idling at least not normally. It is however always in the shop for some issue with the DEF, EGR or other engine related issue. It's also the only Cummins we have. All the other trucks are either Cat or Detroit powered.
Thanks 4 UR thoughts. My 3940 Kubota has been working great
I had the Simplicity Legacy XL, still regret selling that tractor. Never a single problem...
Had simplicity from 1980 until about 2010.just one and it never quit
@Brian Hepp yes
On the JD 2305 they claim the problem is the u joint going dry rusting and breaking. I can get to the u joint from underneath but it that small you can't get the head of a grease gun on fitting while straight it has to be removed to grease good.
I bought a Mahindra the last year of no emission controls. 55 hp. 2wd. Wish I'd bought 4wd.
No issues, none. I priced JD and New Holland. They were thousands higher. My brother has a 4wd 65 hp Mahindra that is 4 years older than mine zero problems, cattle farmer, bales lots of big bales, some custom work.
A guy offered me more than mine cost new so he wouldnt have to mess with emissions, you know the tier engines. Or are they the tears in your eyes engine.
Honestly, id take the offer and run. I just bought a 6075 mahindra 4x4. Love it so far. I sold my 2013 mahindra 4045 45hp 4x4. Guy jumped on it in less than 4 hrs and paid a little more than i did. Basically got a free trailer thanks to it.
I have a Mahindra 2538 I love it.
Mahindra are garbage. Lol you think they're great.
@@supporterofeverythingyouli6255 , My Mahindra, I purchased new 20 yrs ago and has been a great tractor. You may not like them but that doesn't make them garbage. I could say the same about any tractor out there but it would not be True.
@@dwest7268 20 years old is probably OK I looked at them hard in 15 they were shit broke some plastic just getting on it, didn't start right away the guys telling me how he always adds an extra fuel pump to everyone he sells cause the pumps are weak, needless to say I left and didn't look back.
I put 700 hours on a B3350 in the U.P. Of Michigan. Never had 1 issues. It is well known you have to run a B3350 hot ie full throttle. Another old timer in town had same machine thought 1800 rpms was good enough, had nothing but problems. Got a new L3560 LE and have issues with relays and shut downs. 38 hours on it.
Pay $20-30k for a tractor and have to run it full throttle to avoid it being a pile of crap. Yeah, totally normal 😂
I bought a kioti dk35se 12 years ago. Zero issues. I love in farm country and these guys with new Holland and Kubota are continuously in the shop.
Don’t be color blind buying a tractor, great advice. So many people only buy a certain colors and miss out on great equipment. Every manufacturer out their has sold a headache, why I hate buying new. You are the tester on new models and pay a lot more. Fixed to many Yanmars painted green and some expensive repairs. The cable shift linkage let’s them drop into two gears when it stretches and gets expensive. I had a lot of problems with people overheating the Yanmars and scoring liners. I rebuilt many, some of the old ones didn’t even have water pumps. A light would come on but by than it was already toasted. You are talking about newer equipment that came out after l slowed down, most covered under warranty, some not. My experience on it is not as good as yours. Thanks for the information, I have a Mahindra in my barn I purchased after buying a New Holland gutless wonder for myself and it’s been great. They switched from reading HP at rear of tractor to the useless back of engine rating and I didn’t catch it and bought a 33 HP tractor that produced 16 at best at rear. Avoid the mitsubishis engine but the ones with the Mahindra engine are great. The glow plug regulator on the small ones burn up regularly and are costly. The power to the glow plugs becomes to low to produce heat. I found it’s enough to still run a regulator and fix it permanently that way bypassing their system but still having the dash light and everything else work. Mahindra ran to much power through the computer and it can’t handle it.
Good Video.
I chosen to buy the 2020 New Holland TBL 4x4 25hp Diesel for much less money then Kubota or John deer with a 7 year bumper to bumper warranty Zero down and 1.3 % interest. To work my Homestead .
I should have this unit for life , So resale is really not in question.
Reliability and Durability are much more important to me .
Great video. Bought JD 1026R first year out best thing I ever bought. All has worked as it should mowing, Loading, plowing snow. It's like a Swiss army knife for yard work. 700 hours later works like the day I bought it. GO GREEN.
I purchased a kioti CS2510 because it was
Just so much cheaper than Deere. The closest Kubota dealer is 1.5hrs away and I have 2 kioti and 2 Deere dealers within 45mins. The Deere was $4k more and I felt that it’s features were just not that much nicer than the kioti. Kioti has been a solid machine so far
Yep, Kioti is one of my preferred brands outside of JD and Kubota.
I love my Kioti 5310SE!
Kioti's have a greater hydraulic flow in general and that alone is a huge selling point. Maybe not the CS but anything above is. I had a Bobcat CT235 (CK35) with loader and backhoe for 8.5 years with never the slightest problem besides a couple electric relays that went. Financial emergency forced me to sell in a rush.
This is why you learn to repair
And this is why you buy 70ties tractor.
It will be emission exempt!
It does not have any of these emmission contraptions.
Find one in relatively good condition, learn to fix it, and forget all the modern tractor headache.
AC? Trust me I can build one, a car style on the tractor, if wanted to. I don't want to have anything to do with a modern tractor, I'd rather stock up on parts for an old model tractor, than have what people have with the modern. That is for the small use I have.
If I was full time into farming, I'd research heavily, as that kind of situation will call for a modern tractor
You did a good job putting this together. I completely agree on the 3 series. I was shopping a few months ago and comparing to the Kubota. I thought I really wanted a JD. For anyone who sits on them and puts these machines side by side there its just no comparison. I know even both manufacturers compare these two tractors against each other, but in my opinion they aren't in the same class. When I asked the JD salesman why would JD would want to make their rear ends out of aluminum , he said to keep the hydro fluid cool. Lol. Im sure the JD is realiable and may be the right tractor for some people, but not for me. I could have been just as easily buying Green but the 3R wad out of my price range. So My Kubota L2501 was priced below the JD3025. I don't know could be a dealer giving me a better deal or regional pricing thing? Don't know.
Anyway good video, always learn and enjoy. Keep them coming
Thank you sir!
Guess you didnt know that the 3 series engines are Bigger in displacement and TORQUE than the 2 or 1 series. More ground clearance, better turning radius. The E series is NOT for lawn maint. though.. They are best compared to a Ford 9N which served for half a century as a reliable utility tractor. The aluminum rear DOES in fact help with heat. The 3D has cast iron and is a gear tractor and is Cheaper to buy. The aluminum was NOT a cheap way out, cast iron would have been.
Good Works Tractors non
I had the exact same buying experience. Looked at the 3E vs the L2501 and went for the 2501. Seamed like a bigger heavier tractor for the money and I also ended up paying less than the deere (both new). I grew up with both so was pretty impartial to either brand
@@Formulabruce yes I knew those minor differences too. I also saw the same John Deere promotional video your quoting from.
I'm not new to the tractor world so to speak, but I am new to today's tractors. I grew up with my dad owning a 1948 farm all "c", and a 1930 JD model "A". I used them, and had some familiarity with both of them, but up to about 3 years ago, I had never used any other tractor. Now I'm looking into a tractor, and I'm not really sure which way to go. I can say that I have a friend who owns a JD 2305, and it's predecessor a JD 2210(I think), and I have used both of them, and I love them. I also really liked using my wife's boss's Kubota b series tractor. Both are very nice machines, and really good general tractors. In looking, one of the battles I'm facing is size. I don't want a huge tractor, but I'm not sure about too small of one either. The tractor I've really taken a liking to is the Bobcat 2025. But I'm not really sure. I'm not really worried about price depreciation, because if I buy, my intention is to buy one to keep, but I also realize your point about it. Do you have any suggestions?
Thomas, if you want GWT's opinion, give him a call. If you want public opinion, mine is John Deere. The ROPS system does fold down, unless of course you get a cab. The quickness and ease of attaching and removing the loader is mind blowing. My 1025r is awesome and surprisingly good for torque. It shuttles my 29' camper around! (I do use the sway bars and load the bucket when moving the camper.) Bobcat may sell a decent tractor, but unless it is 2/3 the price of JD or less it isn't worth it. Just my two cents.
Thank you Charles. I like the John Deere, and it's a strong runner, but the bobcat is a little better priced and has some awesome features that the deer doesn't in the size I'm looking for.
After owning a 3 series and a 4 series I will never ever go green again. They are over priced junk. I grew up with John Deere tractors being the best you could buy but they have nose dove hard and are just crap now. I traded a Kubota l3800 that worked circles around my bigger JD 4044e. I kept my equipment the kubota ran without a problem and the JD can not handle it without a struggle and setting off a hydro alarm. It has been back to John Deere and tested within their specifications so it just built under powered for the size of tractor.
I can't argue with any of your facts as presented, very unbiased discussion. I was looking at the 3025e JD and the L2501 Kubota and bought the Kubota. Yep, it was more expensive. I have 200 hours on it now and I bought it with the BH77 backhoe. Everyone told me, oh, you will rarely use it. It is my most used attachment. Everything from planting a tree, trenching, demolition, or digging up stumps. I wish JD wasn't trying to meet a price point and would just make a better compact tractor in that arena.
I have a Kioti CK20 and I bought a backhoe att. for it. This is my first Tractor. I bought it about 10yrs ago and I have to tell you for a small tractor, it has been an excellent choice. I have had absolutely no issues with this tractor except, well, I wished it had more power. But, for a 22hp machine, I will not complain. I do not regret this purchase..Yet.
I've had 2 new compact tractors in the last 20 years...a yanmar cub and mahindra 1526... Never had any issues with either that wasn't something silly, like blowing hoses, clogged fuel filters ect... All compact tractors are very similar regardless of brand... They are very well built machines overall.. in most cases where a machine won't start or starts and dies it's usually related to the fuel system or something that has rattled loose from all of the vibration... I would try to get the largest frame size you can , and then save money on buying the versiom with the least horse power....in most cases the same hydraulic system is used on all HP versions of said model, therefore you'll get the same lift capacites and ect. Unless your are brush hogging 15+ acres of very tough grass or other PTO heavy takes for long periods of time your better off putting money towards higher lifter capacities/larger tractor than higher horse power engine options.
I recently got rid of my Mahindra eMax 25 HST. Parts were the main issue for me. On average I waited 5 weeks for simple parts. The network just isn’t there. Second was how much physical effort it took to connect and disconnect the mower deck (I’m disabled). I went with the 1025R. I’m super pleased so far - 37 hours in. Our local JD dealer is not the best on the small tractors, but that’s my only real complaint. My Mahindra was a dependable tractor for sure, but if you need a part you’re going to be down a long time.
Kioti is a really great tractor. Kioti built most of the Kubota tractor parts. Ck2610 will smoke any green or orange tractor on lift and weight spec's, hydro pump is 13 gmp way faster for backhoe use. I've owned many tractors my pick in the end is Kioti. Keep in mind that not one compact tractor is made in the USA. Stick with South Korean or Japan except LS AKA the newer New Holland. Also if all you need is a tractor for alittle work the Chinese, Ag king, foton, jinma are pretty darn good, but a raybestos clutch upgrade is needed. Plus the rubber parts are well, Chinese. Stay away from 2 and 4 bangers stick with the 3 cyl. Anyway if you can come across any Yan Mar grey market tractors they are super.
Simple and easy
I have an RK55 hst 4x4 with cab and loader. Made by TYM in South Korea. It has a Yanmar engine. I love it and recommend people give them or LS or Kioti a look before you buy anything. I compared John Deere and Kubota but neither had anything close to what my tractor is for the price.
I've also spent many years working with tractors and heavy equipment and there's no question the TYM is built heavy duty.
For those that care about such things it also comes with an 8-year unlimited warranty.
Just picked up my first ever tractor. Kioti 4010SE HST. I did lots and lots of research. Solid tractor for the best price around.
Kubota L2501 with a plastic canopy, filled tires, loader and box blade was going to cost me 25k after tax. I got the Kioti 4010SE HST for 31k with all of the SE upgrades (tilt steering, cruise control, mirrors, dual rear hydraulics, link pedal, floor mats, etc), steel canopy, box blade, forks and an 18ft pipe top trailer. (The trailer costs $5,300 from Big Tex)
23.9 HP Kubota vs a 39.6 HP Kioti.
Do your research and check out Kioti.
I have a Kubota made in 1977 and it still runs like a Swiss watch. It is my very best friend. If I need to move something or pull something then it is always there and never failes to burst into life.
Great video! I had decided to buy a Kubota but after watching this and learning that Kubota bailed on their customers that were having problems with the regen system, I think i'm going to look elsewhere. That is truly disgraceful. Why would you sit by and let so many customers suffer because of your mistake? Do better Kubota.
They have stood by those customers. That B3350 now has lifetime warranty on certain parts of the emissions. And they also have made up grades to the system to improve reliability.
I make $1200 to $1500 a week using my 3025e. It has paid for itself 8 times over. I do loader work. Gravel and dirt install. Some picking up hay bales. And of course brush hogging. It's more about the operator than the tractor to get maximum use out of any machine. Have a good dealer to count on is number 1 over which model you chose
I really enjoy your no nonsense direct approach. You don't equivocate much and you have the right value approach. The brand loyalists tend to overlook compromises, I don't think you do.
Having said that, I spend most of my time between a John Deere 310 SE, a Cat 304C CR mini ex and a Takeuchi TL 140. I work installing and performing maintenance on Municipal water lines. Several years ago I had the chance to run a John Deere 110 for a week on some property we had in West Virginia. I really was impressed with that machine and am considering one for a personal TLB for side jobs. I know it's out of production so I'm also looking at the Kubota TLB's, the L47 and I believe the L63? Do you have any experience with any of these and if so, what are your thoughts? Would love a dedicated video on these more robust commercial tractors.
Thanks in advance.
James
Massey 1725. 300 hrs. Built a log cabin with it. Drug hundreds of logs home with it. Dug field tile and repaired. Put in water and electric lines. I haven't bought anything for it yet. The dealer is 8 miles away and I haven't neede them.
Only thing id change is the seat. Going from how to drive is a pain.
Lots of love for my 4035 Mahindra. I have two of them. Hydrostat with a loader. They are awesome.
I have a 2014 B3350SU, bought by private sale at 179hr. Yes, it had DPF regen problems - but the local dealer here in Maine, fixed it under warrantee. I've had no issues since the fix - though the regens are always annoying.
My understanding is, Kubota spent millions fixing the B3350 regen issues. If they wouldn't fix the issues off warrantee, that would be bad.
I love my B3350, but hate the government mandated DPF pollution abatement BS.
Glad to hear they took care of you. Even for those that do get help, many are in and out of the shop repeatedly. More time in the shop than using. Frustrating experience.
In 4 years i have only had one shut down during regen, I was mowing in 90 deg high humidity 10 minutes into regen and the tractor flat out died, waited 30 minutes fired back up and did a parked regen, I blow snow in -20 winters , never has failed to start and i make sure to run at high rpms, no putting around. I love the tractor, plenty of power, perfect size for people with a big yard.
Loader capacity on the bx can be increased. The pressure can be checked with gauge and shims installed under the pressure relief spring to up the operating pressure. Many leave the factory on the low side of spec. Also the spring weakens over time, dropping pressure.
The BX is junk. My BX24 could not lift empty bucket at idle. I also had a Deere 2305 (made in Japan). It lifted 2 overweight men at idle. Then again, the BX has and always has a dinky fan cooled transmission.
Saw a video on another channel about a guy doing this on his new BX23S. Someone from his dealership watched the video and told him it would void warranty. His next video was him removing the shim kit :)
@@GoodWorksTractorsI just bought a 2006 BX24D with 386 hours on it. looks good, runs great, has had all maintenance done on time. but she's weak in the liquid area. i don't think i need to worry about my warranty being voided at this point. thanks for the tip/trick to get more out of my tractor!
I bought a 2003 Kubota B21 loader backhoe a few years ago. Hydraulic lines are the only repair. It’s well balanced with the backhoe on it. No emissions controls on it so it may be my last tractor. Hope I can get parts for it in the future.
I’m just enjoying the background..it’s beautiful.
I mean, great tractor, but as he is talking about other tractors, can we see pics of them?
Actually, as an former engineer (Ford) and bred-raised kid from farm country, this is very important video. Please tell us about the "bad" of some tractors - for farmers who's income/production depends heavily on good dependable tractors, this information is critical. Nowadays, farmers cannot service many of their machines idiosyncrasies and has to have the dealers make a "housecall" or worse have to ship the tractor back to the dealership via tractor-trailer trucks right in the middle of the harvesting season. We have several backup tractors just to cover that scenario, it is very expensive. Thank you, Ciao, L (Morningside and Starlight Farms, Inc)
Request- I love how nice your used tractors look. Would you consider doing a video showing a complete detail job from start to Finnish???!!!!
the kubota MX are replaced the Bseries and L series is replaced with MXseries
Lol, your "my kinda luck" comment killed me. The only failures I have are the most friggin expensive ones.
You don’t buy a SCUT for its loader capacity. I picked up my BX23S with a 60” mmm for 2 grand less than a 1025R without a mower. I liked the Deere, but the hydraulics were smoother on the Bota. Both excellent options.
It doesn't matter what size the machine is, you should still be concerned with it's capabilities.
I have a friend with the 1025R.. it's loader can definately lift more than my father's BX...BUT we can all use the loader with more smoothness on the BX even my friend used to his tractor. Not sure what the difference is in the hydraulics but doing a lift an curle on the BX is easier... which is fine if the BX can lift what you need it to. The 1025R does seem more robust just harder to work with finess for those of us used to Kubota hydraulics.
I have a Bx for the last 4 years with zero problems , I had a John Deere for only 3 years and the motor exploded , long story on that to get it fixed
That is very surprising to hear because Deere has the best warranty around and rarely have issues. We used to sell kubotas and Deere..... & kubotas to 3 deere was the ratio in the shop on warranty issues.
Regen. My own nightmare. Yet not in a tractor but in my truck. 2008 F350. The only real problem I have. I cant engine idle, I cant do long warm ups, I can just drive in town, I cant drive with an soft foot. When it does it in 30 miles I loose an extra 75 miles of fuel. Just to clean out an exhaust pipe. I'm trying to rap my head around that with an tractor. That would be an way worse nightmare.
Keep Mahindra in mind when looking for a tractor. They don't have any current models with regen, filters, etc. Every Mahindra 75 HP and lower doesn't even use DEF. The 85 HP and up do use it but no regen and no filters to fool with. I have a 100 HP and you drive it just like you would any old style tractor. It has a def tank but you don't have to do anything special. It is a Godsend over the def nonsense equipment. The 6065 and 6075 are large frame tractors with plenty of power and no def at all. Mahindra spent some serious money redesigning their engines to comply with the emission and not have to install the def systems.
If your state doesn’t do inspections, look into a dpf delete fir your F350. Well worth the investment.
@@83Yankee I had to trade it in for another truck. My lender on that truck took my interest rate from 4.6% to 15%. Wright now it should have been paid off. With the 15% it would take an extra 7 years to pay it off. So I down sized. Yet still have a lot of power and torque for what I need. An F150 2020 3.5 ecoboost. This lender has me at an end date. Very pleased with them. I have never had an vehicle with this much technology. Yet very happy with it. So it will work out. Thanks though.
@@83Yankee More reliable, economical and more power. Delete is a must.
I got a 98 b21 Kubota a real tank love it will never sell
Anybody else have issue with all your videos volume ? To be able to hear you I Have to turn volume all the way up ( been like that for awhile, only on your videos ) turning volume up every time not a big deal but when the commercials come on during video sounds like gonna blow the speakers - just me or others have that problem ? Matt F
Been told that several times recently. No idea what I'm doing differently and everything is completely normal on my end. I'll have to keep messing with it. Sorry for the troubles.
Sounds ok to me
I’ve got mine turned all the way up and I can just hear him
I'll stick with my 8n Ford's small but simple and will out work any new tractor
When you started out I was laughing just thinking to myself....... WOW there are going to be a bunch of feathers getting ruffled................ Largely because no one especially in these current times likes anyone else's opinion. Totally agree with everything you said and yes my 3032E made your list LOL but everything has a purpose. The 3032E is a gap filler for me and I didn't get a 3038E because 2K for 6 HP??? yeah not needed so didn't spend it. (Might have been a HP video you made that helped with that.) If it was my only tractor then yes "R" series without blinking, but it is for light work and that's what it does. If I know I need a bigger machine then I just go get that one first way easier and do the mop up with the "E'". But I found this to be positive and informational and I will "not" be placing your photo on a dart board for being honest. Have a better day!
Good stuff Gregory. Thanks for sharing!
Agree with the 2305, but more on the wire harness side, there are diodes in the harness just completely wrapped in electrical tape that you have to cut it all apart to find, fyi 40hrs is a little high for a dealer to quote, most transmissions of that style is only a 3 day job
Had a different dealer quote 65 hours to replace a oil pan gasket on an unrelated machine a few months back. Lol.
Good Works Tractors holy crap! Jeezzzzzzzz
Sounds like kubota has been destroying itself. I really appreciate that you're putting all the good and bad points out there!
If you're looking to get the "best bang for your buck", take a look at the Kioti CK2610 HST tractor.
@@ComfyBe Yeah way cheaper than Kubota.
@@bjenkins803 YES Cheaper - also less expensive
Watch over working with loaders on kioti. Pushing stumps etc... You know u will try. Main frame bolts will snap way easier than on deere or kubota. Other than that fine
The Grand L and LX are the best tractors in their class so I would disagree with "destroying itself".
Pretty disappointed Kubota didnt take care of the regen issues for folks. I have an L3301 and hate the regen stuff. Instructions in the owners manual were slightly wrong. I called Kubota dealership and talked to a mechanic and he walked me through it. I rewrote the modified instructions down in my manual. The only other issue I have had with the 3301 is it is a little tippy. Almost turned it over on flat ground moving slow. I had a full loader bucket bit had it low. Still almost turned over. I also wish I had gotten a tractor with more hp.
Thanks for taking the time, have a great day!
Bought a 2012 Kubota b3000 cab/loader model with heat and AC, the 4 cylinder emission's free engine is hard to beat in a compact tractor model!