Been there like you, With my 83 Quattro UR.. Had problem with rust and water, in fuel tank. Replaced my tank with Alloy unit. Return fuel pressure valve sticking.closed. Remove and clean out. Only small amount ot water rust specks there. Pressures checked for and return. Low vacuum at warm up valve. Found pipe had been disconnected. Running ok. Having start up problem's now I have changed engine . Poor tick over. Plugs, sencers, injector 's , pump and filters replaced. After eight yrs of no problems, it's starting to test my resolve, now. Best regards. Great to watch your video. Darryl Tucker.
Oh dear! Have to admit, I was so tempted by the Emerald stand alone ECU kit as per Wheeler Dealers Audi Coupe but they didn't answer my enquiry. However, Rob at Nentsport sorted it all out for me and at the end of the day, it was a combination of everything! However, my brake servo was rusted through causing a massive vacuum leak resulting in the non-start. Keep at it!!
@@garageofdad I hope it will not came to that, as I assume that the specialist would just replace a lot of parts not tracing the cause of such issue. If you succeed, this series about the K-Jetronic will be a bible for others struggling with similar case :) All the best to you :)
You sound like you’re from Inverness. I just revived Heart Vw MK1 with the K jet injection system. After rebuilding the fuel distributor, the problem ended up being no pressure coming out of the warm-up regulator. Come to find out it was completely seized internally. After taking it apart and freeing up everything, I had more than 60 psi’s feeding the fuel distributor, which resulted in the car starting for the first time. Leave no stone unturned
That metering plate adjustment shouldn’t be cranked down so much, I’ve never bottomed it out and then turned it out slightly. I don’t think that’s the happy place for that adjustment.
The KV is similiar to the JT/KX we have in the states. A few things I noticed in the 2 videos. Cold start valve. This only works in colder temperatures and for such a short period of time (there is a graph in the Bentley that shows this). I'd rule that our for any sort of starting issues as the car can start fine without it. The coolant temp sensor you replaced looks like the one for the coolant gauge. Is there a sensor on the bottom of that coolant neck? May be a difference of engine codes, but the bottom sensor is for the ECU and mixture. For the injectors, nice work! The new ones definitely look like they are doing a better job. In terms of the mixture screw I'd set that back to how it was originally. Its quite a fine adjustment and it shouldnt take much to sway from lean to rich. Once the engine is warm the O2 takes over, so the base mixture is really only for open loop operation. Our JT/KX cars dont have a WUR but rather a DPR on the side of the fuel distributor, so a slight difference there. I wouldnt remove the metering head unless you have to. Tough to tell but the metering plate *looked* like it was resting ok. The reason the car runs fine with the screwdriver is because you are just setting the plate so fuel is flowing to the injectors. I wouldnt expect the car to act any different if the plate was manually lifted like that. Hope to see an update soon with this thing running :)
Thanks for the interesting info. The car is currently away at a chap who has worked on them for years and he recons a fresh pair of (experienced) eyes may pick up on something I've overlook. There'll be an update coming soon. Have to admit, I was tempted by a stand alone ecu/injector conversion as seen on Wheeler Dealers recently but that will be a last resort! Thanks, Mike
You're definitely close now! The fact it needs the screwdriver trick suggests one of several things, most of which you've ruled out (control pressure too high, plunger sticking etc). It could be that the sensor plate needs adjusting, as you say. Check the specification for your engine and set to that (usually should rest flush with bottom edge of air cone, it can be 0.5mm lower but not higher). Re: the idle mixture, it sounds lean to me, the backfiring into the intake (see the rubber boot jump at 13:14?) often indicates it's lean. I know the plugs were blackened but that will happen when you're just trying to get it running on the driveway. The mixture screw is really sensitive! I'd set it where you had it running then lean the mixture with the screw while it's running to find a sweet spot, just don't rev the engine with the Allan key left in there! Couple of other ideas to check... are you sure there shouldn't be injector holders? Some are plastic, some are brass but I've never heard of not having them, Audi catalogue for 1988 KV engine shows them also. You could also try cleaning out the idle control/stabilisation valve (metal cylinder just off the throttle with electric connection) with carb cleaner... They get gunked up and can cause idle issues. Good luck, looking forward to the next instalment!
That's great feedback. I'll head out soon and check all of those. Some times I get a bit confused and focus on the filming rather than the job so maybe try it all off camera so I can concentrate. Thanks
@@garageofdad completely understandable, I have enough problems just trying to get something done on the car, not easy to think about filming everything including explanations at the same time!!
@@garageofdad you can get to the injectors/holders much easier if you take the inlet manifold off. I did that when replacing my injector holders, as some were cracked and letting air past, they were still an absolute b*gger to get out though! Just remember to get a new gasket in stock before if you take it off, I forgot this and of course the old gasket tore in half!
@@markf4720 That sound like a plan and will do it. On a different note I discovered something totally unrelated yesterday, the coil is putting out a very low reading so am currently following up that one.
Does this model have the tiny fuel filter on the fuel inlet, it's about 10mm long from memory. Certainly, earlier GT5Es did and they were meant to be removed at the PDI check but often weren't so at some point you were almost guaranteed to have a fuel restriction happening.
No - It's sorted! Keep an eye out for the next video. It may be early in the new year as I've mothballed it at the moment after a specialist got it going.
It was a combination of things but one item stood out and would explain the reluctance of the metering plate not rising at idle. The brake master cylinder was corroded and leaked air badly. Maybe worth a look at yours. (I overlooked mine)
Been there like you,
With my 83 Quattro UR..
Had problem with rust and water, in fuel tank.
Replaced my tank with
Alloy unit.
Return fuel pressure valve sticking.closed.
Remove and clean out.
Only small amount ot water rust specks there. Pressures checked for and return.
Low vacuum at warm up valve. Found pipe had been disconnected. Running ok.
Having start up problem's now I have changed engine .
Poor tick over.
Plugs, sencers, injector 's , pump and filters replaced.
After eight yrs of no problems, it's starting to test my resolve, now.
Best regards.
Great to watch your video.
Darryl Tucker.
Oh dear! Have to admit, I was so tempted by the Emerald stand alone ECU kit as per Wheeler Dealers Audi Coupe but they didn't answer my enquiry. However, Rob at Nentsport sorted it all out for me and at the end of the day, it was a combination of everything! However, my brake servo was rusted through causing a massive vacuum leak resulting in the non-start. Keep at it!!
I like your passion about solving this issue :) Great video !!
Cannot give in but I may have to in the end and take it to a specialist ☹
@@garageofdad I hope it will not came to that, as I assume that the specialist would just replace a lot of parts not tracing the cause of such issue. If you succeed, this series about the K-Jetronic will be a bible for others struggling with similar case :) All the best to you :)
@@jedrzej4369 Thanks. It's a struggle but will get there in the end - I always do!! 😄
You sound like you’re from Inverness. I just revived Heart Vw MK1 with the K jet injection system. After rebuilding the fuel distributor, the problem ended up being no pressure coming out of the warm-up regulator. Come to find out it was completely seized internally. After taking it apart and freeing up everything, I had more than 60 psi’s feeding the fuel distributor, which resulted in the car starting for the first time. Leave no stone unturned
That's good. Stripped mine too. There's not much in there but a vital part of the system
P.S. I'm a Scottish Borderer 😀
check for a vacuum leak. make sure fresh o-ring is placed between fuel metering head and airbox that it is affixed to.
There were one or two vacuum leaks hard to find though
You’re nearly hitting the jackpot
So near yet so far!
That metering plate adjustment shouldn’t be cranked down so much, I’ve never bottomed it out and then turned it out slightly. I don’t think that’s the happy place for that adjustment.
The KV is similiar to the JT/KX we have in the states. A few things I noticed in the 2 videos. Cold start valve. This only works in colder temperatures and for such a short period of time (there is a graph in the Bentley that shows this). I'd rule that our for any sort of starting issues as the car can start fine without it. The coolant temp sensor you replaced looks like the one for the coolant gauge. Is there a sensor on the bottom of that coolant neck? May be a difference of engine codes, but the bottom sensor is for the ECU and mixture. For the injectors, nice work! The new ones definitely look like they are doing a better job. In terms of the mixture screw I'd set that back to how it was originally. Its quite a fine adjustment and it shouldnt take much to sway from lean to rich. Once the engine is warm the O2 takes over, so the base mixture is really only for open loop operation. Our JT/KX cars dont have a WUR but rather a DPR on the side of the fuel distributor, so a slight difference there. I wouldnt remove the metering head unless you have to. Tough to tell but the metering plate *looked* like it was resting ok. The reason the car runs fine with the screwdriver is because you are just setting the plate so fuel is flowing to the injectors. I wouldnt expect the car to act any different if the plate was manually lifted like that. Hope to see an update soon with this thing running :)
Thanks for the interesting info. The car is currently away at a chap who has worked on them for years and he recons a fresh pair of (experienced) eyes may pick up on something I've overlook. There'll be an update coming soon. Have to admit, I was tempted by a stand alone ecu/injector conversion as seen on Wheeler Dealers recently but that will be a last resort! Thanks, Mike
What year and model Audi do you own?
You're definitely close now! The fact it needs the screwdriver trick suggests one of several things, most of which you've ruled out (control pressure too high, plunger sticking etc). It could be that the sensor plate needs adjusting, as you say. Check the specification for your engine and set to that (usually should rest flush with bottom edge of air cone, it can be 0.5mm lower but not higher). Re: the idle mixture, it sounds lean to me, the backfiring into the intake (see the rubber boot jump at 13:14?) often indicates it's lean. I know the plugs were blackened but that will happen when you're just trying to get it running on the driveway. The mixture screw is really sensitive! I'd set it where you had it running then lean the mixture with the screw while it's running to find a sweet spot, just don't rev the engine with the Allan key left in there! Couple of other ideas to check... are you sure there shouldn't be injector holders? Some are plastic, some are brass but I've never heard of not having them, Audi catalogue for 1988 KV engine shows them also. You could also try cleaning out the idle control/stabilisation valve (metal cylinder just off the throttle with electric connection) with carb cleaner... They get gunked up and can cause idle issues. Good luck, looking forward to the next instalment!
That's great feedback. I'll head out soon and check all of those. Some times I get a bit confused and focus on the filming rather than the job so maybe try it all off camera so I can concentrate. Thanks
P.S. It was difficult to see into the injector holder with the mirror. I may dismantle the whole intake housing and have a clean of everything
@@garageofdad completely understandable, I have enough problems just trying to get something done on the car, not easy to think about filming everything including explanations at the same time!!
@@garageofdad you can get to the injectors/holders much easier if you take the inlet manifold off. I did that when replacing my injector holders, as some were cracked and letting air past, they were still an absolute b*gger to get out though! Just remember to get a new gasket in stock before if you take it off, I forgot this and of course the old gasket tore in half!
@@markf4720 That sound like a plan and will do it. On a different note I discovered something totally unrelated yesterday, the coil is putting out a very low reading so am currently following up that one.
Getting there stick with it on the metering unit...
Thanks 👍
If it backfired even once it can push the sensor plate out of adjustment, you have checked the timing??
Interesting as it does backfire a bit. I'll double check and get a loan of a timing light. Thanks
@Taz6688 Just checked all the timing marks and the camshaft is one tooth advanced
Does this model have the tiny fuel filter on the fuel inlet, it's about 10mm long from memory. Certainly, earlier GT5Es did and they were meant to be removed at the PDI check but often weren't so at some point you were almost guaranteed to have a fuel restriction happening.
Yep you're right. I took it out when I changed the metering unit kit
Did you ever manage to get it running right ? I’m having the exact issues eith my 86’ coupe 2.2
check for a vacuum leak. make sure fresh o-ring is placed between fuel metering head and airbox that it is affixed to.
Did you give up?
No - It's sorted! Keep an eye out for the next video. It may be early in the new year as I've mothballed it at the moment after a specialist got it going.
@@garageofdad Cool, it will definitely be interesting and helpful to find out what it was.
Hello there, please let us know what the issue was as I have the same issue. Thank you
It was a combination of things but one item stood out and would explain the reluctance of the metering plate not rising at idle. The brake master cylinder was corroded and leaked air badly. Maybe worth a look at yours. (I overlooked mine)
@@garageofdadThanks for that info...guess what I'm going to check now today😂😂
What were the final cold/hot pressures on your WUR?