Audi 2.2 KV Bosch K-Jetronic diagnosis continues
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- To properly test the K-Jetronic system I purchased a fuel pressure guage only to find out that there were other problems to hinder me.
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Here's a couple of really good videos on K-Jetronic troubleshooting
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• How To Diagnose And Fi...
Gauge:- www.amazon.co.uk/DHA-Injectio...
Noid light set:- www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B...
Chapters:
0:00 Intro
0:45 Pressure Gauge
1:05 Fit Gauge
2:35 System Pressures
8:30 Cold start valve
11:35 Thermotime switch
15:55 Cold start valve again
21:15 Injector test
25:55 Summary - Авто та транспорт
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Great video, am just fiddling with my Porsche 928 K-jet, some pointers here will come in very handy
Hi. Fiddly is the right word for working on K-Jetronic! I eventually got it sorted by and expert whose dealt with them for years. Well worth the money as it runs really sweet now.
Brilliant video. Thank you. My old Volvo's K-Jet is getting less mysterious the more I watch videos like this one.
Hi thanks. I have it running perfectly now thanks to a specialist. Watch out for the next video.
Another cracking video mate! 1 injector here in the U.S. for a 4000 cs Quattro is $67! I bought the car for $750- pays to do lots of homework before spending a dime on parts. Knowledge and the right tools first.
Thank you. Spent a fortune on my Coupe but it's going to be my keeper so don't mind. Managed to get a set of 5 genuine Bosch Injectors in the UK for $127 It's running great now so watch out for the next video!
Thanks for posting this video! Gives me a good idea of how to diagnose my Audi 5-cylinder.
Thanks - Pleased to report it's finally fixed and keep watching for the next video which will be out soon
Like your videos a lot. I would say it sounds like a vacuum leak.
I had the very same issue when I was doing a brake job on my Coupe 2.3 NG and realised the vacuum hose to the brake servo was disconnected 😂
Thanks, I'll nip out and check that tomorrow 👍
Great stuff had the same problem with my 2.3E 1990 coupe couldn't get it to start, eventually took it to an auto electrician the car spent six weeks in the shop they checked every electrical and part and some mechanics, but could could not help..took it to a local mechanic friend of my father he tried everything then gave up for awhile he stored it in his garage for years.. 3 years to be exact.. one night I'm eating my dinner and hear a knock at the door to my surprise it was him..he walked three miles from his garage to deliver the news that he finally got it to run...we rushed up the next day to witness this.. it was running but quite rough the idle wasn't perfect but was running then shut of after three minutes .. it took him another six months to perfect it through his contacts finally on the 23 Dec 2014 I got my car back idle is perfect if you need to have a chat with him..holla and I'll arrange it good luck.
Thanks for the great story but with a good ending, I'm hoping for that too. In my next video, I learnt something from someone on UA-cam about a very simple thing that might be causing all my grief. Heading out tomorrow to try and also armed with new injectors. So keep watching!
But you don’t say what the solution was…
Very very useful video!!! I have a car here with the same problem.
Great stuff
Great video :)
Wow, K-Jet injectors cost me £112 30 years ago lol. I found Redex is very good for cleaning injectors as you can't sonically clean them (so I was told). BTW in summer you can easily start the car without the cold start injector even connected. One part that can cause issues is the auxiliary air valve behind the intake, it adds more air when the engine is cold, they can pack up so the car won't idle when cold
Good job. Iv got same problem. Goodlack.
Where is the Cold Start Valve located ug… 17:58 …answered!! but if you have a bad CSV and or a thermal time switch will that stop the the fuel pump from turning on?
check for vacuum leaks, make sure fresh oring is placed between the metering unit and the airbox.
Ke fuchs on youtube explains problems with microsvitch under the throttle body.
Thank you. Rob (who eventually sorted the car) had a look at that and it worked fine. The car now starts and drives spot on.
Fantastic progress. Now that you know the fuel pressures are all good, you must be very close to having a properly running car. Assuming the timing is correct and you've got no vacuum leaks, I think you may just need to set the mixture screw. It sounds like it's just running too lean. If you run the fuel pump, and then turn the mixture screw clockwise (richer) until you hear the injectors start spraying, then just back it off a tiny bit, hopefully the car will start and run easier. If you can only turn the screw as much as you turned it in the video, something's wrong in there, perhaps dirt or threaded screw - it should be able turn more than that. You can then fine tune the mixture screw by ear for a nice smooth idle, or with a CO analyser attached.
That's great advice thanks. The injectors and Thermotime switch will be here this week. I also noticed the temp switch wasn't working too. Will give that a go when they're all in.
Been out all day today, new injectors in but will have to raise sensor plate in metering unit to start and run the car. Which way do you turn the Idle screw to raise and lower the idle speed? Getting closer now!
@@garageofdad if it's the same as mine (B2 Coupe GT) there are 2 screws, one to adjust idle speed on the throttle body, and one to adjust mixture (the one you were adjusting in the video). The Haynes says to adjust idle speed first with warm engine and with idle stabiliser disconnected, headlights on and crankcase breather plugged. I set mine to about 900 rpm as it seemed happy there, but maybe check the spec for your engine. I can't remember which way increases or decreases idle speed but a quick turn will tell you. Re: mixture, which should be set after setting the idle speed, clockwise will richen the mixture.
@@garageofdad just found in Haynes KV 2.2 ignition timing should be set to 17-19 deg before TDC, and idle speed 800 rpm.
@@markf4720 Spot on I'll adjust the idle as per above and check the timing too. I have a Haynes manual for the 2.2KV B2, I'd imagine mine would be the same as it's a 1989 early B3. Some times it's better to go back with a fresh head in the morning. Thanks again.
£15 for new old stock injectors "bargain " Should've brought a spare at that price, Just really impressed with the lengths you've gone to to get the car running cant wait until the next video to hear it running as at should. The fuel looked a little "brown'y coloured" when spraying through the injectors is the fuel old or just a the way it looked on video? how longs it been in the tank?
Yes, they're a bargain! Fingers crossed the injectors will get it going. Because the car sat such a long time, I just wanted to go over absolutely everything replacing what I could (or could afford!). The fuel is fresh Shell V-Power but has Redex additive in it giving it a dark colour.
Really like the depth you go to with the pressure testing. However, the fuel spraying out of the injectors into the plastic bottle looks filthy, or is it just the fuel spray back-washing the injector bodies?
Well spotted - It's actually fresh Shell V-Power but I put in some Redex which gave it that colour.
Excellent Video! What are you referencing for these tests? Bentley or Haynes?
I scoured youtube for weeks and found the two videos linked in the description below. One guy is a Porsche and the other a VW specialist but the K-Jetronic systems are just the same. I ended up taking the car to a K-Jetronic specialist not too far from me who's finally sorted it. There'll be a video coming out soon on the outcome but it was basically a combination of a vacuum leak and tying everything together.
Hi!! I have a question. When you test the acumulator of fuel and you test the pressure. What place you put the manometer to test it? Thank you :)
Brilliant video. Mine cold start injector doesn't get "+". Where to look? Fuses are O.K. Ground is OK. Resistentance 4om between pins. Is this correct? It works when I put 12V on pins.
It works from an earth from the thermotime switch on the side of the block. There should be a live to it all the time. I'll have another look at mine
So an air primer?
Managed to get it going in a later video. Was the metering unit and leaking brake servo.