Ford Focus MK1 Common Issues - Rear Suspension
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- Опубліковано 7 гру 2022
- Another blog in the world that is MK1 Focuses... this time I go through the rear control blade suspension on a Focus MK1, the following advice can be applied to MK2 Focuses and maybe MK3.
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Good video! I did both lower arms and the control blade bushes on my ST170 today (I did the banana arms last year). I also fitted new genuine Ford rear springs at the same time. I removed the whole subframe assembly to do the work and I'm glad I did. Both bolts on the lower spring arms were sized in the bushes and had to be cut off as did the outer bolts on the short lower arm bushes. Much easier done with the subframe out of the car. Both control blade bushes were gubbed so the rubber and dog bone link twisted out of the bush housing easily enabling me to carefully cut through the housing with a hacksaw to remove it and I pressed the new one in with a pair of G clamps and the spring retaining plates from my spring compressor that fits through the hole in the bottom of the spring arm, was the easiest part of the job! The lower spring arms were corroded around the anti-roll bar mount enough to be an MOT failure which is something to watch out for on old Foci. Thankfully the ST170 has poly bushes on it's anti-roll bar mounts. Took around 8 hours for me and my mate to do the job taking it easy, also removed and treated the rust on the subframe which is also a lot easier when it's out. A job well worth doing, the car feels really tight at the rear now but I still have to get the alignment done properly to finish the job off.
Cracking job and the best way of doing it, I'm reading and automatically nodding to everything you've said. All very familiar to anyone who has done this, g-clamps for the trailing arm bushes is interesting - usually only the tool will get them out so well done! It is a common place for the bottom rear arms to snap near where the arb link connects. Once you've got the allignment done it'll feel like a new car - the control blade is what makes a MK1 special to drive!
Just paid the garage to change all of the rear including the subframe. Got it back and it was high, he didn't know about setting the ride height. Took it back and he set it correctly. After I jacked up the front corner and lowered it back down, the rear was sitting high again. Have used all Lemforder parts with Sachs shocks & springs so I know they're good so I'm thinking of swapping for ST springs now.
I rang the local main dealer about setting the height and they said no. Explained that everything was brand new so they wouldn't be dealing with rusted bolts and they said they won't touch it.. cheers Ford!
get st170 springs and that will sort the issue... no surprises from the dealership - they know it's 50/50 whether they can do it and I can back that up trying to get the "design ride height" set properly.
love your vids just want to say thanks for everything you have helped me d-side to fully rebuild my focus mk1
thanks buddy I'm glad that its given you the confidence to do this. Any rebuild is daunting when you first start thinking about, especially what could go wrong. As long as you are prepared, new bolts for everything is essential. You'll be fine, if your doing the rear in one go it'll be the most rewarding thig you can do on these cars. You'll never want to sell it trust me! Any questions just ask.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering i am doing a good bit then paying for the rest i look forward to it feeling newer as mine is 23years old
Starting out on a st170 myself and watching your video has already been insparational. Thank you.
Some of my problems so far is the Haynes manuals which very nearly but not quite cover this car. So, a combination of Haynes and google searches i can usually get an average answer. One example if front hub nut torque(the big nut in the center)!
Cheers I'm glad you found it really useful! I started doing the same with a combination, I used Haynes for torque settings more or less these days!
Great video man! The rear of my MK1 looks rusty like the Titanic. I'm scared to change anything back there as it would be a huge deal to get those bolts moving. I'm hoping it can last another winter season or 2 before she becomes a safety concern. Too bad really, the rest of the car is great.
Most of them are like this now and not a cheap job. The only MK1's that will survive will get the rear suspension done properly.
Really enjoyable, Got the job of replacing all arms ,bushes and springs . After trying to remove the bottom blot last week. Give up before it broke Already changed the drum brakes on the 1.6 to dice and calipers which all blots on from a 2.0. Also have to change handbrake cable
that's a very popular modification once you have the hubs from a disc brake model and the different handbrake cable. Although on an non-abs model that has caused issues with the brakes easily locking up because of their efficiency compared to drums
Hiya mate. Your vids are top notch and have really help me diagnose various problems before handing over to a auto shop. I can only mange basic maintenance on my MK 1 1,6 Auto Hatch. I have a brake problem just happened with a torn/ripped flexible hose to the rear drivers drum. Could I trouble you for the part number please for the flexible hose and would it be prudent to replace both sides? Thanks again, Steve.
I'll have a look for you!
Great summary. That rear suspension is in quite good condition, literally rust-free. Keep it that way, bro', it DOES worth every minute you work on it.
Focus has the best suspension in its class.
What do you think about axle spacers? I use a pair, motocnc product, it improves handling experience, for a bargain.
Thankyou I really appreciate that!
i've no experience with the spacers tbh it may do it may not depends how the rest of the suspension is in terms of condition.
😮 Awesome thanks 👍
You're welcome 😊
Interesting video.
I bought a set of the eibach lowering springs and fitted them without touching bushes and it lowered nicely.
I've got a mk1.5 tdci sport , pretty lucky due to no rust absolutely anywhere, I love these cars and definitely a keeper when you have a decent one. Pitty cant add photos to replies....
Keep that car. Its very rare only a few hundred left.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering Dont think I will ever sell, brilliant car which still feels tight and nimble cornering, far better than a lot of modern cars.
I sent some photos to your email today.
Hey, I have a 2002 ford focus SVT.
Couple questions based off the video you just made.
So I am going to change the sway bar to a Whiteline.
I noticed the driver side rear lower arm that the bolt for the swaybar connects to has a crack down that. So that lower bar needs to be replaced.
I noticed that there’s a lot of bushings you said six on each side so I’m assuming mine at 22 years old should be replaced. my thinking is I should replace the lower arm on the passenger side so I have new ones on each side. I’m also also going to change the shocks but not the springs because they’re only 10 years old. They’re performance springs.
I’m not the one doing the work. I have a mechanic that will be doing the work at a good shop. Is there anything else I need to do?
If you are a mechanic and your client came in and said I got a video for you to watch before you do the work Would that piss you off I just want to make sure that they know this is a unique suspension that they need to make sure they follow the steps correctly. 😊
as long as they follow the book they should be able to do the job as long as the bolts for the rear arms are not seized! They often are and need cutting off.
Nice clean and tidy rear subframe and suspension setup.👍
Puts my mk2 2007 Focus ghia estate rear setup to shame, it's structurally sound just very crusty, I do attack it every now and then with a wire brush, zinc anti rust paint and smoothrite.
It past it's last MOT just needing a new rear shock absorber, had a slight leak on one.
I suspect I may need the front bushes on those trailing blade arms replacing.
Probably on the original ones, no knocking just a bit of a vague, sloppy rear end feeling, like it needs a bit more of an improved positive, tighter feel.
Did the Febi kits you mention come with the arms or just bushes?
Mine has rear disc brakes and the mounting for the shock absorber is a bit different, it attaches under the rear body rather than through into the cars boot.
Yeah Mk2s have a different mount on the rear shocks! Soubds like the bushes are tired from a vague sloppy feel. It takes a long time until they properly fail. The febi kit came with arms and bushes in one set.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering Any links for the febi kit or what do I search for? Cheers 👍
I'll have a look but if you search febi focus mk1 rear control arms trailing arm bush it may come up with it. It was 2 years ago I did it.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering Cheers 👍On ebay or any particular parts site?
ebay!
Am I right in thinking, if I use the ST springs then I don't need to worry about taking a measurement between the subframe and lower arm?
Also should all the bolts then be torqued up after the wheel is on so the cars on it's normal load?
correct all 6 bolts on each side need torquing to 115nm on the ground, very awkward... use st170 rear spring like i have and it brings the ride height down, getting the ride height done properly is very difficult if impossible in my case as they don't hold at all.
I changed my rear springs 6 months ago, specifically i put the Kayaba K flex springs. Should I change the front ones too? If so, can i just put a set of the same springs I used in the rear suspension or do i have to change all four of them again in order for them to wear out equally? I believe that the front ones need changing for sure because the car is higher on the rear and lower on the front, it's wearing the oem springs up front and it has 326.000 km? What should i do?
Ideally at this age I would consider it, because they can snap through age!
Stupid question but did you take the rear subframe off to clean and sanitize it? Or you just did it all in situ?
I dropped it a little to inspect the upper side of the strut towers for corrosion but found nothing and put it back up and did the rest in situ.
I rang 3 garages yesterday about changing all the arms, shocks & springs on mine and none of them would touch it, which worries me
That isn't unheard of I'm afraid but that's rather unprofessional to dismiss the work. It's usually 500-600 as a job. Keep trying other garage be arsed it sounds like the other three are taking the mick!
Try and get new bolts when buying suspension parts, them if they rusty and need cutting you have them. The anti roll bar links, on the top of control arm the rot, so make sure thiss section is reinforced with a plate welded on. Stopss the rubber bush falling through aand collapsing, time stamp @ 7.41. After alot of miles replacing suspension bushes is needed, for sure. Best bet i've found is try and loosen the bolts and take each bolt out and replace one cleaned. 11:32 i can source the trailing arm bush but need the tool to put it i. Can you let us know where you got the trailing arm from. Might go a garage to do them trailing arm bushes, tell them loosen all the bolts aa bit for me. 18.08 are you sure the mk3 subframe just bolts straight in with the exhaust mod, if so it better just to do all the work off site ad bolt it all complete straight on. i think your rear anti roll bar sets your ride height like it does at the front When replacig anti roll bar there is a height settinng.
I've only heard of one failure of the rear link rotting so bad the Bush pushes through! It's pretty rare but that's a good idea! Yes mk3 subframes fit apart from the exhaust hanger which needs modifying, it's commonly best practice to lower the whole thing and do as one. No the rear anti roll bat doesn't set the height at all, its the 6 bushes fir sure but the front has some effect on front height but not sure how much.
Oh I got the tool off ebay fir £60, there's plenty on ebay. There is something I missed... this tool also does mk2 bushes as well! So they retained the same size bushes on the mk2 but on mk3 different bushes.
Hello. I have a Mazda 3 2004 which have the same rear suspension setup with your car. I get a squeaky sound when driving with low speeds on uneven surfaces. The sound is pretty noticeable from the inside. Do you have any idea what can it be ? Thanks
It is very common for the rear anti-roll bar bushes to squeak in their brackets, some silicon spray will sort it, that's where I would start
@@usuallyfixingtinkering Thank you. I will rubricate them and I will inform you !
Does anyone know where to buy replacement rear subframe please? They appear to have dried up on eBay. Or has anyone had theirs replaced recently? What sort of price?? Mine is not longer for this world...
they are on ebay as far as I've just seen, expect to pay 180-220
I had advisories on my MOT today that coil spring on the rear (both sides) and the suspension arms on both sides are corroded - please are you able to help me with this? are there other things I should check/change at the same time?
I've done a video on this coming soon because they are a safety issue if they are the originals like these are. You either pay a garage and be prepared for a £400 bill because of the labour cutting and punch the bolts out that hold the arms on, or you try yourself if you feel brave enough. MK1 life is great but there are a few hurdles to get through and this is one. Have a think and chin up!
@@usuallyfixingtinkering Thank you, I look forward to seeing that video when it is released
It will show you exactly what to do
Great information, great video, I'm having a problem. I set the ride height torque the bolts, then its seems like my coil springs are bottomed while my shocks are completely decompressed. I changed all 6 control arms and i dont know what I'm doing wrong, i dont torque anything down until the weight of the car is down the ground under its own weight, and the ride height doesnt seem to change it stays a few inches higher then it set before the job was done. Ive redone the job 4 times now and have gotten nowhere. It doesnt seem slike anything wants to compress unless all of the bolts are out a few turns but even then it doesnt seem to be at its original height or evern close. Any help would be extremely appreciated!
Short answer - I went through this exact process with mone by the book exactly as you have done to no avail. It was sit to high on new springs. The aftermarket arms and bushes cannot hold the ride height set so I went around this by fitting ST170 rear springs and the rude height looks standard now!!!
@@usuallyfixingtinkering So after doing all the control arms the stock springs just aren't gonna work anymore?
@@usuallyfixingtinkering My biggest issue isn't the ride height, it's the drive quality. It's a stiff bounce with next to no rebound or shocking absorbing. It feels like I'm driving directly on the coil springs
it may on some cars but yours is behaving like mine did!
that's not right it should be comfortable which ever springs you fit, I wonder if the shock absorbers have gone weak, sounds it to me!
Hi,Regarding the ride height,is it 112mm ? Thanks.
I believe so give or take 5mm
Wow,thanks for your quick reply,I'll give it a go !@@usuallyfixingtinkering
Cant wait to start working on my SVT/st170, you didn’t help my itch 😂. Great vid man
Oh dear this is a common complaint on my channel🤣
Hello,my focus is very poor in a straight line, seems to wander quite a bit,new trailing arm bushes fitted,gen Ford,made no difference and new bottom arms on the front,any pointers of what to change to cure it as I really want to keep the car as the rest is great? Regards Richard.
The only real way of telling is to get a wheel alignment check, it could just be that it's off and especially after having new bottom arms and trailing arm bushes may change the camber compared to the tired originals. That's my best answer :)
@Usually Fixing & Tinkering done all that as I work in a bodyshop feels like the banana bushes as the rear feels quite loose but goes round corners well and the wheels have a fair bit of negative camber too. The Mrs has a focus elle and hers is like it's on rails compared to my estate. Both same year and similar mileage to each other. Nothing flagged up on the mot either,just asking in case there was a common failure point on the focus. Regards Richard.
@@richardhaywood4123 What tyres do you have? I'm covering the basics because with tracking plus new bushes there should not be looseness at the rear. The only other place I would look at are the rear control arms x2 per side.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering I have uniroyal rain expert3 all round fitted new a couple of years back so done around 14000 miles ish.
@Usually Fixing & Tinkering new shocks on the rear for last mot,made no difference I add.
pretty sure ford had this set up with the mk3 and 4 escorts,maybe as old as 1980 mk5 went to typical torsion
No they certainly wouldn't at that era, torsion beams, rear leaf springs were the things before.
dont forget this suspension is also on volvos and mazdas
Correct
Mk2 is the same
exactly the same