Came back here for the ride height information, I think that when you had all the parts laid out on the blanket you had the upper control arm in the correct orientation. 😀 It's interesting where the manual mentions the "Estate" model, here in the U.S. that would exclude a Focus and the automobile would be 42 feet long. 😁 I have to say you did an impeccable job with these videos, better then any of the online manuals could have done and actually they should be doing it this way for the price they are asking. Hats off to you sir, I hope you have some updates if you continued with the project. These videos are worth gold for personality and attention to detail. I hope you get more subscribers! I do have the Ford PDF if you are interested.
Thank you for the kind words and PDF offer I may well be in contact! More on the way soon. Next video will be a Mercedes Estate review as I wanted to have a drive, then workshop build video then we’re back on the ST170 engine build over the winter. Yes that upper control arm had me stuck for weeks 😆
I figured I would add something as I have almost completed the rebuild of the rear suspension. I did torque the rear axle bolt as requested in the manual to 173 F-LB's, it baffles the mind that this assembly did not have a cotter pin involved for security. I have decided to add a snap ring as extra security and although not nearly as good as a cotter pin it will ease my mind a bit. Due to rotational forces it is much more likely the drivers side would loosen. If there was a poor safety design issue with the focus this is it.
Nice to see an ST170 getting some love! Highly underrated cars and a sure fire future classic. When you do the front end consider getting some Bilstein B6 struts for it. I recently fitted a pair to my ST170 and the inverted damper design really sharpens up the steering with very little effect on ride quality. Keep up the good work!
Thanks I’ll take a look at those. Bilstein do some great stuff for the st170 and their struts are top quality. Just about to start stripping the front down now but will most likely stick with Monroe to keep it the same as the back. If I do another one I’ll go Bilstein all round for sure and do a comparison. Thanks for watching 👍
Love watching these videos. Mines outside looking sorry for itself. Need to get on it. Have you a parts list with makes available. Loved how you said don’t buy as a whole bundle. Well done.
Thanks! The bits I get for the car I find on eBay. I do a quick search for the manufacturer name online if I don’t know the brand & see if they’re original equipment suppliers to other car makes. Prices are usually pretty similar too. Can sometimes find branded packs of suspension arms, components etc which are ok but I’d try to stay clear of unbranded component bundles for sure. Thanks again for watching 👍 - and good luck with yours!
love the content mate keep up the good work i have an st170 estate myself love it and doing the same as you with replacing stuff did my timing belt and now i have vvt problems so i have to do that again :)
@Chewy Chew :D Hi, Ive got a couple of 3drs. Have a P1318 code but I now think my issue is that I have the stock timing tensioner, not the now discontinued stronger spring type. I was able to get a spring from 5 acre focus in USA and It fits a continental brand tensioner. Code comes randomly, selonoid is good etc so I’m trying this.
Did you ever find the seals for the rear spindles? About to do rear bearings over the winter and want to make sure I have all the parts before I do the job.
I haven’t managed to track down a new set yet - think I’ll go direct to Ford and see what they have. From what I remember it’s a common seal to most of the Ford stuff so hopefully will be lucky! I’m gonna repaint the back again due to the finish not being good enough so will be taking all the bits off again and looking for seals. Let me know if you find any! 👍
Thanks! I got it a few years ago so no link unfortunately. It was new from eBay and under £40 if I remember correctly. Makes doing brakes and clutches so much easier highly recommended!
It uses a sealant gasket for the sump - when I put it back on I cleaned both surfaces then made some studs to put in some of the bolt holes as a guide. Then I ran a 3mm bead of Dirko sealant around the inside of the bolt holes on the sump pan and raised it back on. There’s a special sequence to doing up the sump bolts so the gasket spreads out evenly and it’s gotta be done in 2 stages. First pass do the bolts up to 6 N/M, second pass torque them to 10 N/M 👍
@@st170restoration another question I have when you turn the ignition on should the engine management light come on then go off as mine dosent come on at all I think the bulb is missing
@@mohidmm yep when it’s turned onto the second click just before it starts all warning lights should come on as a systems check. Some will go out like the airbag warning lights etc as the car checks the systems and confirms they are working. Others will go out once the engine starts. If the management light never comes on it’s likely someone has done something to the bulb!
@@st170restoration thanks bud gonna have this looked into possibly due to some major problem wanted to hide also if I put in a new cluster how can I get my mileage back to what it was
@@mohidmm the engine management light on these is always coming on for one reason or another - they’re pretty sensitive to everything. It’s usually nothing to worry about. If you need to replace the cluster I’d probably try to find one with a similar mileage to your own car or to find a garage that does digital mileage correction. Basically done through certain diagnostic tools via the OBD port. Good luck with it all 👍
Not sure. I think it’s just that all the new components need to settle. I haven’t torqued anything yet all the bolts are still loose. I’ve put cement bags and water containers in the boot and I’ll leave that in there for a few days and hopefully the ride height will drop. Then I’ll torque all the bolts when it’s on the floor
Came back here for the ride height information, I think that when you had all the parts laid out on the blanket you had the upper control arm in the correct orientation. 😀 It's interesting where the manual mentions the "Estate" model, here in the U.S. that would exclude a Focus and the automobile would be 42 feet long. 😁 I have to say you did an impeccable job with these videos, better then any of the online manuals could have done and actually they should be doing it this way for the price they are asking. Hats off to you sir, I hope you have some updates if you continued with the project. These videos are worth gold for personality and attention to detail. I hope you get more subscribers! I do have the Ford PDF if you are interested.
Thank you for the kind words and PDF offer I may well be in contact! More on the way soon. Next video will be a Mercedes Estate review as I wanted to have a drive, then workshop build video then we’re back on the ST170 engine build over the winter. Yes that upper control arm had me stuck for weeks 😆
Shall be commencing the same rear resto on my mk2 ST this winter, good vids mate and cheers 👍
Sounds like a great project for the winter! Thanks for watching 👍
I’m glad that is somebody who love this type of car and put so much passion to restore it ,great job brother👏
Im glad you covered the design height and noted that spring is out. Great resto! Enjoy driving!
So much easier with nice new bolts. Looking great
I figured I would add something as I have almost completed the rebuild of the rear suspension. I did torque the rear axle bolt as requested in the manual to 173 F-LB's, it baffles the mind that this assembly did not have a cotter pin involved for security. I have decided to add a snap ring as extra security and although not nearly as good as a cotter pin it will ease my mind a bit. Due to rotational forces it is much more likely the drivers side would loosen. If there was a poor safety design issue with the focus this is it.
Nice one - always good to add a bit of extra security where possible! Gonna double check mine when back on the road
Just one tip, get a braided steel clutch pipe, it's alot easier and you will never have to worry about it again 👍
Nice to see an ST170 getting some love! Highly underrated cars and a sure fire future classic. When you do the front end consider getting some Bilstein B6 struts for it. I recently fitted a pair to my ST170 and the inverted damper design really sharpens up the steering with very little effect on ride quality. Keep up the good work!
Thanks I’ll take a look at those. Bilstein do some great stuff for the st170 and their struts are top quality. Just about to start stripping the front down now but will most likely stick with Monroe to keep it the same as the back. If I do another one I’ll go Bilstein all round for sure and do a comparison. Thanks for watching 👍
Love watching these videos. Mines outside looking sorry for itself. Need to get on it. Have you a parts list with makes available. Loved how you said don’t buy as a whole bundle. Well done.
Thanks! The bits I get for the car I find on eBay. I do a quick search for the manufacturer name online if I don’t know the brand & see if they’re original equipment suppliers to other car makes. Prices are usually pretty similar too. Can sometimes find branded packs of suspension arms, components etc which are ok but I’d try to stay clear of unbranded component bundles for sure.
Thanks again for watching 👍 - and good luck with yours!
love the content mate keep up the good work i have an st170 estate myself love it and doing the same as you with replacing stuff did my timing belt and now i have vvt problems so i have to do that again :)
@Chewy Chew :D Hi, Ive got a couple of 3drs. Have a P1318 code but I now think my issue is that I have the stock timing tensioner, not the now discontinued stronger spring type. I was able to get a spring from 5 acre focus in USA and It fits a continental brand tensioner. Code comes randomly, selonoid is good etc so I’m trying this.
Another top video. Fairplay
Did you ever find the seals for the rear spindles? About to do rear bearings over the winter and want to make sure I have all the parts before I do the job.
I haven’t managed to track down a new set yet - think I’ll go direct to Ford and see what they have. From what I remember it’s a common seal to most of the Ford stuff so hopefully will be lucky! I’m gonna repaint the back again due to the finish not being good enough so will be taking all the bits off again and looking for seals. Let me know if you find any! 👍
Any links to the brake bleeder? Great video!
Thanks! I got it a few years ago so no link unfortunately. It was new from eBay and under £40 if I remember correctly. Makes doing brakes and clutches so much easier highly recommended!
Did u need a gasket for the sump or it doesn’t need one for the st170
It uses a sealant gasket for the sump - when I put it back on I cleaned both surfaces then made some studs to put in some of the bolt holes as a guide. Then I ran a 3mm bead of Dirko sealant around the inside of the bolt holes on the sump pan and raised it back on. There’s a special sequence to doing up the sump bolts so the gasket spreads out evenly and it’s gotta be done in 2 stages. First pass do the bolts up to 6 N/M, second pass torque them to 10 N/M 👍
@@st170restoration another question I have when you turn the ignition on should the engine management light come on then go off as mine dosent come on at all I think the bulb is missing
@@mohidmm yep when it’s turned onto the second click just before it starts all warning lights should come on as a systems check. Some will go out like the airbag warning lights etc as the car checks the systems and confirms they are working. Others will go out once the engine starts. If the management light never comes on it’s likely someone has done something to the bulb!
@@st170restoration thanks bud gonna have this looked into possibly due to some major problem wanted to hide also if I put in a new cluster how can I get my mileage back to what it was
@@mohidmm the engine management light on these is always coming on for one reason or another - they’re pretty sensitive to everything. It’s usually nothing to worry about. If you need to replace the cluster I’d probably try to find one with a similar mileage to your own car or to find a garage that does digital mileage correction. Basically done through certain diagnostic tools via the OBD port. Good luck with it all 👍
Why is the rear end propped up
Did you torque everything while on the ground and under load or on jacks
Not sure. I think it’s just that all the new components need to settle. I haven’t torqued anything yet all the bolts are still loose. I’ve put cement bags and water containers in the boot and I’ll leave that in there for a few days and hopefully the ride height will drop. Then I’ll torque all the bolts when it’s on the floor
@@st170restoration if it doesn't sort itself maybe this will help ua-cam.com/video/_NNS4eX-MPA/v-deo.html