White Lithium Grease: amzn.to/3LCImNG The Truth About My Worsening Health Condition: ua-cam.com/video/JVs5ShzyW5U/v-deo.html Thanks for watching! Like and Subscribe for More Vids Daily ► ua-cam.com/channels/uxpxCCevIlF-k-K5YU8XPA.html ⬇️Scotty’s Top DIY Tools: 1. Bluetooth Scan Tool: amzn.to/2nfvmaD 2. Mid-Grade Scan Tool: amzn.to/33dKI0k 3. My Fancy (Originally $5,000) Professional Scan Tool: amzn.to/31khBXC 4. Cheap Scan Tool: amzn.to/2D8Tvae 5. Dash Cam (Every Car Should Have One): amzn.to/2YQW36t 6. Basic Mechanic Tool Set: amzn.to/2tEr6Ce 7. Professional Socket Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 8. Ratcheting Wrench Set: amzn.to/2BQjj8A 9. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/3i7SH5D 10. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR ⬇️ Things used in this video: 1. Common Sense 2. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2HkjavH 3. Camera Microphone: amzn.to/2Evn167 4. Camera Tripod: amzn.to/2Jwog8S 5. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/301tYt9 Subscribe and hit the notification bell! ► goo.gl/CFismN As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
My wife 2005 Toyota camry makes a rattle noise only when placed on gear , i had them change the timing belt and the tensioner, and drive belt tensioner the VTI and the noise persist ! What is your suggestion ?
That's why I have always done as many car repairs myself other than rebuilding an automatic transmission. Then i quit buying cars with automatic transmission. Never even needed a clutch replacement on my manual cars. Had to replace a clutch pedal cable a couple times on a Geo Spectrum. Took less than 15 minutes, and they're cheap enough that you can just keep one in the trunk. And a hydraulic clutch doesn't even have a clutch pedal cable.
Until you mess up and need the dealer. Everything fine as long as you know wht u doing, but would not recommend anyone to just start doing everything themselves watching youtube videos
@@akulkis I’ve been driving manual transmission cars and trucks for 20 years. I’ve had to replace the clutch on two different occasions on two different vehicles. No clutch lasts forever unless you’re flipping cars every few years.
@@clyde9659 I disagree, youtube and internet are enough to learn anything and you would be much better than the dealer technicians if you have the right tools.
If I wasn't so old, Scotty could have been my favorite Uncle. My new 85 Camaro, greased it every 3k miles with oil change. Sold to my brother 15 years later, all original front end parts in perfect condition. Northeast
As a kid I bought a used root beer brown, tan interior 79 Z28. That's the only Chevy , where I thought, this is awesome. Looking back, it was. The most impressive thing for me, was that console shift. It was as buttery as a Lincoln" Handled well, SMOOOTH. Definitely one of Chevys best. Then the 90s came. 👎
I've had the same issue with my f150 for the past week. sprayed some white lithium near the leaf springs and bushings and it stopped immediately. Scotty is awesome.
Most older Ford's have plugs that look like set scews where grease fittings should be.Just remove the plugs and put grease fittings in. An old Ford mechanic showed me that my old 66 Mustang squeak like crazy,it's an easy fix.
Use Aluminum or Copper anti-seize on the back of your wheels to stop them from getting stuck on. Put it on 1 time and you're done for at least 10 years with no worries of the wheel getting stuck on.
Another tip: I use anti-sieze compound for keeping the rims from sticking to the hubs. The little brush used to apply the anti-sieze compund eliminates te overspray of grease.
I just did my daughter’s Corolla oil and filter. Checked tires, hinges lubed, fuel system cleaner. TN car so no corrosion yet. Next year when she moves to Knoxville it will be time for fluid film!
Scotty, I just discovered your videos and spent hours reviewing them. All I can say is I wished I had an honest, highly knowledgeable and competent mechanic such as yourself. Your amazing videos have made me more of an informed car consumer armed with the great knowledge and tips you've made available to ALL car owners or potential car buyers. I'm sure your retirement is well deserved and may you be richly blessed with spending it with family and friends for many years to come.
Great maintenance video, Scotty! One word of advice for viewers is to be careful with a pressure washer, especially with the 0-degree tip. You can cut through bushings (and your shoes/feet!) if you aren't careful. Just something to be aware of.
Here in Wisconsin a lot of folks like to use Fluid Film to prevent rust and corrosion. Give everything under the vehicle a good coating before salt truck season and you'll see a big improvement.
I like the pressure washer setup! But I wouldn't use lithium spray grease on those rubber suspension bushings. Lithium is petroleum based, and it tends to speed up rubber and plastic deterioration. I would use a silicone based grease which preserves rubber. Plumbers use silicone grease for rubber faucet valves o-rings. There's silicone grease spray but I wonder if the other chemical ingredients that allow the silicone grease to stay liquid will deteriorate rubber? Many valve cover gaskets are made of silicone because it doesn't deteriorate from motor oils or petroleum based oils.
@@Mr.Z1776 Greese on the lug threads isn't a problem. In fact, I don't just put grease on my lug threads, I put anti-seize compound on them (grease PLUS finally powdered copper/and or aluminum). I've never had a problem with lug nuts staying tight, and they are never difficult to remove when I *WANT* to remove them, because they don't corrode (because of the grease), and the grease doesn't overheat (because the copper and/or aluminum improves heat flow through to the lug nuts, just like thermal grease on a computer CPU heatsink).
Living in salt land, you must wash it every day before putting it to bed. Clean the crap out of the underneath, brakes spindles shocks, all of it. It will help save your car. Even if it's snowing out do it. Salt will destroy a car in 18 months.. If they put that liquid brine solution on the roadways. Holy crap> Have had that stuff eat through the wiring harness. Another great video Scotty.
Good advice as always! There is great satisfaction in fixing your car right and economically. White lithium grease story: Control arm ball joint squeaking -- good, no play. Pierced joint rubber seal, squirt in white lithium, RTV to plug hole in seal -- no squeak. A little life extension at low cost...
Scotty is usually right about what he says BUT NOT ENTIRELY this video time. In one of his previous videos he says LITHIUM GREASE is for Metal on Metal use. And it is NOT suggested to use Lithium Grease on Rubber or Plastics since Lithium is a Petroleum based Lubricant and can Degrade both of these rather than Protect them such as the Creaking Rubber Bushings in this video.
I love Scotty but I despise lithium grease. It inevitably dries out and turns to hard particles. And it looks bad on door hinge and latch hardware. I use Lubriplate for grease on door latches. LPS 1,2 , and 3 for general purpose lube. A quality anti seize for the brake disc and hardware. And silicone spray for rubber bushings. If I’m assembling new rubber bushings I use silicone grease like DC4.
OMG, don't wrench the emergency brake like that! If you use it all the time, like you're supposed to, you'll wear out the ratchet. Push the button in, lift as high as it'll go then release. One of the first things my driving instructor taught me and it makes perfect sense. .
5:24. Scotty. It's not the flat surface of the disc brake hat that's sticking to the wheel, it's the circular collar in the center of the hat that fits into the wheel. You can see the corrosion in your video. You need to clean this off as well as the center of the wheel using a wire wheel and then coat both with grease or anti-seize. Just finished my 47th Minnesota winter.
I can't believe they got rid of zirk fittings on almost everything except 3/4 and 1 ton pickups. The old vehicles I used to own never needed any suspension work, they were greased every time I changed my oil. I bought a 1/2 ton about 5 years ago and was amazed they make trucks without fittings.
Yes I live here as well and change my wheels over between summer and winter myself. I have never seen less rust than what he had there but I do lubricate the surfaces so I have no issues. Also, 2009 Volvo c30 driven all winter has no rust, probably because I get it oil sprayed regularly and spray wash the salt off regularly. Cleaning and lubricating, folks.
Nice. I was taught to use anti-seize on the front of the rotor/back of the rim to prevent it from corroding and not being able to remove the wheel in the future.
… well, … I’ve heard you never put a lubricant on lugs, as they’ll allow the nuts to loosen, even if properly torqued. Also, the corrosion should be removed from the hub and the inside of the removed rim to insure a cleaned, flat surface in order to prevent lug nuts from loosening … I had a Honda Odyssey with aluminum wheels that needed this done once a year - almost lost a front wheel …
I put a drop of engine oil on the thread of the lug nut 🔩 for decades. Then torque it to OEM spec. Never have any problem. Only note that the studs and the nuts looks like new everytime during winter tire change over. I am getting sick and tired randomly some mechanic over tighten those lug nuts to over 250 ft/lb on a manufacturer spec of 87 ft/lb wheel when buying new tires with installation.
I've put anti-seize on lug nuts for over 40 years and never had one come loose. I don't put lube on the shoulder where the nut contacts the rim though, that's where I want lots of friction.
I have the same car, doing the same thing also in MA and the creaking is driving me nuts. Fortunately for me all the mechanics I have taken the car to have been honest and said there is nothing wrong. Now I know what to do.
Hello Scotty... ...I put a light coat of synthetic break grease on my lug nut seats and on the lug studs. Never have to fight with removing lug nuts. Never had a problem with lug nuts backing out.
Don't do it! Lol jk. Toyotas you maintain, .Gm you repair" 💩 Honda makes some fine cars as well The Japanese build EXCELLENCE" Motorcycles, Cars, Generators....World Class F-1....Overall, I gotta hand it to Honda" That Huge Mural . "BEST ON 🌎 EARTH" I won't argue with.
I would recommend spraying that grease on the corresponding spots on the wheel instead of the rotor. Less chance of getting it on the working surface of the rotor. Also good time to Mop n Glo your tires 🌟😁 🌟. I'm surprised Scotty wasn't spraying those bushings with that ATP-205 he's so fond of.
Yeah it's bad up here.. I live in South Jersey, and I sanded and painted my Brakes and caliper's once a year I will take Black spray and a Scrub pad and rough up any rust spots I see and then hit it with some paint to fight the rust.. Its a losing battle but it's still one you should try and maintain.. I totally took Scotty's advise on this.. Just got done doing my Car yesterday.. I did a CVT Drain and fill and while I was under the car I hit everything I could get to with the white grease.. Car drives and feels a little smoother.. I am already on 3 set of new front struts' also have new control arms and Ball joints.. Did the front and back breaks last year.. rotors and pads.. But every little thing scotty tells me to do I do.. When you own a Nissan Juke, Tuned to 260 AWDHP with a CVT, All your spare money goes to precautionary maintenance.. Sad but true if you want your car to last till the payments are up..
When I first started to buy aluminum alloy rims (in the 70's) I learned that the rims would weld themselves to the rotor and wheel hub. Also those steel lug nuts, with the polished stainless steel caps on them will weld themselves to the lug holes. Rather than do what you do, I use a Never-Seize compound. It's a brush on silver material. Since using this I've never had any problem.
The problem with vehicles in winter weather states is that people don't wash them enough during the winter. I wash or spray my 2013 Malibu at least 2-3 times a week during winter and thats why my original brakes pads with 89k still have 40% remaining!
The reason tie rods and ball joints don't need grease is because the inside is now plastic rather than metal so you don't have to worry about binding and what not. Also never grease your stud threads because lug nut torque specifications are set to be torqued DRY and not lubricated. Never over tighten your lug nuts
Too right, Michael. Grease or lube of any sort will affect stated torque readings AND too, any 'lube' on the wheel studs will potentially loosen the lug nuts!
Scotty! No lube on the faces of the brake rotor face or hub. Derust if you like, though. The clamping force of those surfaces help prevent the rotor from slamming back and forth against the wheel studs (rarely bolts). Much respect from me!
Scotty your videos are indispensible !! The other tool that has saved me a lot of time and money over the past 25 years is the Plews grease needle. At 150K on my 2000 F150 a tire tech told me I would need new tie rod ends and ball joints though no unusual tire wear . On the lift he yanked on the wheel and was astonished no free play in any direction. He'd never heard of grease needles. Two pumps of grease once a year and some spoogy exudate . Now at 350K starting to get a little up and down so might only get 400K on the ball joints and tie rods.
That CRVs intake hose could have dry rotted and has some cracks in it, also the knock sensor goes back on the k24 and drops gas mileage terribly. I have an 03 accord and replacing the knock sensor increased my gas mileage from 21ish back up to the 29-30 it used to get. Also replacing the dry rotted intake hose helped with my rough idle because it was cracked in multiple places.
Whoa, that 0 degree nozzle... might be a little too... ouch... for the rubber bushings. That thing will take off 30 year old chewing gum. I can imagine what it'll do to a piece of car rubber.
Hey Scottie I can see that power washer compromising that rubber bushing especially when they get old and stiff , if it splits than you have a real problem
@@rogerwhiting9310 it does actually, check out Torque Test Channel. They did a video on torque wrenches and one of the tests was lugs with anti-seize. wrench was set to 100ish, and it torqued to 200.
I wouldn't use a pressure washer anywhere near rubber seals, especially the table mounts. Best to leave it be. I do agree with lubrication on rubber for noise prevention only if it's necessary. I would only use a lub that is not harmful for rubber too. Some may dry out and eventually crack the rubber. I was actually shocked that Scotty put a pressure washer near those mount bushings.
I agree. Pressure washes are useless as cleaners in 90% of cases. Sandpaper for the rusted sections, air blower to clean it out, followed by some bituminised anti rust aerosol to seal it. I'd actually apply it to those parts when new as a prevention.
I use a pressure washer the same way. I just blast out the dirt and the gravel and whatever loose crap is sitting there. It works awesome. You don't sit there and run a bead concentrated for one or two minutes and that's not what he did either.
Thanks Scotty! My car has been squeaking when I go over speed bumps and over the curb to my driveway. Not a big deal but not nice. I bought white lithium grease and sprayed all of the rotating points where the springs and such are mounted to the frame. The squeaking went away! I appreciate the info you shared. Thanks!
I always keep a can of lithium grease around. It also works well for door hinges, slides, and latches. Lithium grease was made for these applications where low-speed high-wear contact surfaces are. I also keep a can of "dry" silicone handy for weather seals, door locks (older cars), etc.
I love all your videos, being a mechanic for many years in Massachusetts I just wanted to say about the wheel removal and install, please let everyone know that the corrosion around the Hub and wheel center must be cleaned off and the face of both mating surfaces! It's a pain but may keep the wheel from coming loose! Again this is a northan problem because of the Salt 🧂,
I used to work with a buddy who was a long time tire shop veteran. He freaked when I put lubricant on the wheel studs. I considered his point of view for a long time. But it is ultimately an inclined plane. Metal on metal. Back in the day, a certain auto manufacturer (whose name is heresy on this channel) used to put left handed thread on the left side! I think the important thing is to check your lugs on occasion and rotate your tires every oil change?
There was actually a TSB for this model of Corolla about suspension noises. T-SB-0068-20 Rev1 2020/10/16 Squeak Noise From Front Lower Suspension Arm Bushing.
I live up here in the northeast. And when I do a Brake Job, I don't rely on that petroleum jelly in a packet. I used to use anti-seize, just because of all the salt that's used on the roads around here! I enjoy watching you're videos & content. I & my brother used to have a shop together. Surprisingly nothing ever came back. And we could do it all at an affordable price !!!
I use anti seize on the brake rotor/wheel mating surface (not on the studs) up here in Canada or in a short time your wheels will seize to the brake rotor. Have always done that on my vehicles from new.
I bought a 76 Plymouth that had been hit hard on the passenger side. It had spent all its life in Arizona, never get any salt on it. The owner asked me if I wanted any parts, he knew I had a Plymouth Duster. He wanted the disk brakes for his older Barracuda. I could have the car free of cost IF I removed all the brake parts and returned them to him. I was amazed when I started tearing it down. Once the wrench snapped the bolts loose I could turn them with one finger! After struggling with rusty cars in Wisconsin all my life, that was like working on a new car. I saved the engine and trans because they were identical to my Duster. Headlights, ignition system, wheels, all the bulbs, radiator. I sold the hood and trunk lid then junked the body. Now, if I plan to buy a used car, I search for one from a state that doesn't use salt.
As someone who worked in the oilfield for over 40 years, I put grease on everything before I reinstall it. When I replaced all of the front end parts on an old Astro Van I bought as a project after I retired, when I took it for a front end aliment the mechanics were cussing me because of all the grease they got on their hands. I told them in 20 years you will still be able to remove them.
in the country I live in, they use an incredible amount of salt on the roads in the winter. winter can be harsh. not like in alaska then but hard enough somewhere
The inserts inside of the bushings are attached to the rubber and do not spin inside. Adding grease does nothing to a bushing like that other than attracting dirt and sand. I would research and reconsider this video.
They don't lubricate undercarriage anymore like in the past. I remember there were shops that got a high pressure oil to spray all joints. You hit the bumpy roads so smooth after.
Great advice Scotty. I would recommend though, instead of getting the cheapest can of LG, get the WD-40 Specialist can. Instead of the tiny red straw that always comes off/gets lost, it has a tube attachment you leave down for a finer, wider spray, or flip up to use the straw for a thicker spray and extension. There is a shaker ball in can, so I think the grease is heavier. At any rate, it's worth the extra couple bucks for the spray attachment alone.
@D Greco.. not a lot, I'm afraid... the original WD-40 stood for Water Displacing. The co. makes all kinds of products. The one I'm referring to is White Lithium grease. BTW, the original WD-40 certainly is a lubricant too..
lifting cars up at the chassis crimp point is how rust starts. the metal jack scratches at that spot and bends it, breaking the rust proofing. or at least im pretty sure thats how it all starts in those areas, thats where my car is rusting to death from because of that and its gone to my rocker panels and made some pretty big rust holes. best to lift a car with a proper hoist where it lifts on all 4 corners to not bend the crimps and the lift or contact points have rubber pads to help not scratch. they put those rubber parts for that reason. you can notice the crimp point bending where scotty used his floor jack and getting scraped too no doubt. if you're at home its best to use the included scissor jack and put a folded paper towel between the scissor jack and the undercarriage where it pushes on to prevent paint damage on the bottom in those areas. the scissor jack doesn't rely on the crimped metal to lift the car but on the sides of it. if you have damage in these areas shoot stubborn grease on there every now and then if youre in high rust risk areas
That lithium grease is also good for your garage door; all the hinges, rollers, etc., etc. I learned that from a professional garage door guy; and my 20-year-old sectional garage door still rolls up and down perfectly. (oh, every 6 or 9 months is enough)
I just did that yesterday. Sprayed the throttle body after replacing the air filter on my Cadillac XTS and made a big difference. Runs nice and smooth whereas it was shuddering or not accelerating at all when you push the gas occasionally, would stall out after a long drive and actually stalled at a stoplight recently. Still can't find a gas filter for this thing. This car shows warnings off and on and then they just go away and OnStar or the shops can't tell you what the hell it is. It's been happening for years actually. Unfortunately on these Cadillacs it really is the shocks and struts and everything else creaking and grinding and groaning.
That's interesting. I just got something worked on on my rear drive shaft, and the mechanic told me it's very important to get the zerks greased. Old school.
I use wet silicone spray. Lithium grease seems to thicken over time, but hey, do whatever works for you. Just don’t use petroleum based products like WD40, they will deteriorate the rubber bushings. Also on my wife’s 12 Chrysler 200, I put a light coating of grease just around the hubs when it was new and the wheels still fall right off. It also helps to rotate tires, most people don’t and that’s how corrosion builds up and it takes a hammer to get the wheels off
Question: A-205 vs lithium green , which one we should apply to the rubber pushing ? You told us in another video that A-205 is good for rubber . Can we apply both A-205 and Lithium green in same time to protect rubber and fix friction noise ?
When a bushing starts squeaking or groaning, it's because the bushing has failed. Bushings have a metal (usually steel) inner sleeve , and a steel outer sleeve that is a press fit into the boss of the control arm. These steel sleeves are vulcanized to the rubber center part of the bushing. When they squeak, either the inner sleeve or the outer sleeve (usually the inner) have broken away from the rubber center, and when flexed, instead of the bushing deforming, the sleeve just turns inside of thhe rubber causing the squeak you hear. On a good bushing, thhere are no moving parts, only the rubber component that absorbs the twisting or flexing motion. You can grease them all you want, but the squeak will return. They're still failed bushings.
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You are a wonderful dad, god bless you.
Scotty what’s the hanging pressure washer your using and where can I get it. I’m gonna buy it ❤️
H c
ATS Link?
My wife 2005 Toyota camry makes a rattle noise only when placed on gear , i had them change the timing belt and the tensioner, and drive belt tensioner the VTI and the noise persist ! What is your suggestion ?
"So why not be like me..fix everything yourself..you'll save a fortune..you'll have peace of mind knowing that it was done right"..👍👍👍💪
But we don't know what Scotty does. Some of us were not allowed to take shop---lest we learn a useful, practical or marketable skill.
That's why I have always done as many car repairs myself other than rebuilding an automatic transmission. Then i quit buying cars with automatic transmission. Never even needed a clutch replacement on my manual cars. Had to replace a clutch pedal cable a couple times on a Geo Spectrum. Took less than 15 minutes, and they're cheap enough that you can just keep one in the trunk. And a hydraulic clutch doesn't even have a clutch pedal cable.
Until you mess up and need the dealer. Everything fine as long as you know wht u doing, but would not recommend anyone to just start doing everything themselves watching youtube videos
@@akulkis I’ve been driving manual transmission cars and trucks for 20 years. I’ve had to replace the clutch on two different occasions on two different vehicles. No clutch lasts forever unless you’re flipping cars every few years.
@@clyde9659 I disagree, youtube and internet are enough to learn anything and you would be much better than the dealer technicians if you have the right tools.
If I wasn't so old, Scotty could have been my favorite Uncle.
My new 85 Camaro, greased it every 3k miles with oil change.
Sold to my brother 15 years later, all original front end parts in perfect condition. Northeast
That's awesome!
I'm the same age as my uncle
As a kid I bought a used root beer brown, tan interior 79 Z28. That's the only Chevy , where I thought, this is awesome. Looking back, it was. The most impressive thing for me, was that console shift. It was as buttery as a Lincoln" Handled well, SMOOOTH. Definitely one of Chevys best. Then the 90s came. 👎
I've had the same issue with my f150 for the past week. sprayed some white lithium near the leaf springs and bushings and it stopped immediately. Scotty is awesome.
I did the same with my mustang. No squeaking 🙏
Most older Ford's have plugs that look like set scews where grease fittings should be.Just remove the plugs and put grease fittings in. An old Ford mechanic showed me that my old 66 Mustang squeak like crazy,it's an easy fix.
Use Aluminum or Copper anti-seize on the back of your wheels to stop them from getting stuck on. Put it on 1 time and you're done for at least 10 years with no worries of the wheel getting stuck on.
Another tip: I use anti-sieze compound for keeping the rims from sticking to the hubs. The little brush used to apply the anti-sieze compund eliminates te overspray of grease.
Yep, I had a miserable time getting the factory rotors off my car. I slathered the hubs with anti-seize before putting the new ones on.
Almost Anything you dont want to stick rusted froze.
I just did my daughter’s Corolla oil and filter. Checked tires, hinges lubed, fuel system cleaner. TN car so no corrosion yet. Next year when she moves to Knoxville it will be time for fluid film!
Fluid Film - excellent product !
It’s always fun to watch Scotty because he has such a loveable personality
Scotty, I just discovered your videos and spent hours reviewing them. All I can say is I wished I had an honest, highly knowledgeable and competent mechanic such as yourself. Your amazing videos have made me more of an informed car consumer armed with the great knowledge and tips you've made available to ALL car owners or potential car buyers. I'm sure your retirement is well deserved and may you be richly blessed with spending it with family and friends for many years to come.
Don't retire Scotty! We can rest when we die. Just scale back. If you go, it'll be a sad day. ,😢
Can I put this on DVD? Please Please Please.
I share same sentiment.. Scotty ...am also Scott by the way🥰
Scotty is the man!
"All I can say"... Plus 2 more paragraphs!
Great maintenance video, Scotty! One word of advice for viewers is to be careful with a pressure washer, especially with the 0-degree tip. You can cut through bushings (and your shoes/feet!) if you aren't careful. Just something to be aware of.
Mechanic: “you need struts and bushings”
Car owner: “my dad is Scotty Kilmer, let’s see what he says about that.”
Legend
Scotty Kilmer: "You need a Toyota"
hahahaha
Go to Pep boys for a wheel alignment and I guarantee they will tell you that either control arms or ball joints are needed.
Mechanic: Get out of here!
Here in Wisconsin a lot of folks like to use Fluid Film to prevent rust and corrosion. Give everything under the vehicle a good coating before salt truck season and you'll see a big improvement.
I like the pressure washer setup! But I wouldn't use lithium spray grease on those rubber suspension bushings.
Lithium is petroleum based, and it tends to speed up rubber and plastic deterioration. I would use a silicone based grease which preserves rubber. Plumbers use silicone grease for rubber faucet valves o-rings.
There's silicone grease spray but I wonder if the other chemical ingredients that allow the silicone grease to stay liquid will deteriorate rubber?
Many valve cover gaskets are made of silicone because it doesn't deteriorate from motor oils or petroleum based oils.
Tip: Spray the wheel, not the brake rotor.
Exactly, then you don't get grease on lug threads.
Tip: use a thin layer of brake caliper grease. No spray...
@@reubenmorris487 aka silicone grease
@@Mr.Z1776
Greese on the lug threads isn't a problem. In fact, I don't just put grease on my lug threads, I put anti-seize compound on them (grease PLUS finally powdered copper/and or aluminum). I've never had a problem with lug nuts staying tight, and they are never difficult to remove when I *WANT* to remove them, because they don't corrode (because of the grease), and the grease doesn't overheat (because the copper and/or aluminum improves heat flow through to the lug nuts, just like thermal grease on a computer CPU heatsink).
@@reubenmorris487 is that red grease?
Living in salt land, you must wash it every day before putting it to bed. Clean the crap out of the underneath, brakes spindles shocks, all of it. It will help save your car. Even if it's snowing out do it. Salt will destroy a car in 18 months.. If they put that liquid brine solution on the roadways. Holy crap> Have had that stuff eat through the wiring harness. Another great video Scotty.
A leaf blower works great to dry things quickly after powerwashing.
Good advice as always! There is great satisfaction in fixing your car right and economically.
White lithium grease story: Control arm ball joint squeaking -- good, no play. Pierced joint rubber seal, squirt in white lithium, RTV to plug hole in seal -- no squeak. A little life extension at low cost...
Scotty is usually right about what he says BUT NOT ENTIRELY this video time. In one of his previous videos he says LITHIUM GREASE is for Metal on Metal use. And it is NOT suggested to use Lithium Grease on Rubber or Plastics since Lithium is a Petroleum based Lubricant and can Degrade both of these rather than Protect them such as the Creaking Rubber Bushings in this video.
Exactly right. This is actually an ASE Maintenance and Light Repair test question. Rubber bushings should NOT be greased with petroleum lubricants.
Correct.. use a heavy silicone spray on anything rubber or plastic
Scotty, if you decide to retire, you will be surely missed. Especially your sense of Humour. Best wishes.
I love Scotty but I despise lithium grease. It inevitably dries out and turns to hard particles. And it looks bad on door hinge and latch hardware. I use Lubriplate for grease on door latches. LPS 1,2 , and 3 for general purpose lube. A quality anti seize for the brake disc and hardware. And silicone spray for rubber bushings. If I’m assembling new rubber bushings I use silicone grease like DC4.
Keep up the good work Scotty. Watching from Nigeria, in Africa
hello and thank you!
OMG, don't wrench the emergency brake like that! If you use it all the time, like you're supposed to, you'll wear out the ratchet. Push the button in, lift as high as it'll go then release. One of the first things my driving instructor taught me and it makes perfect sense. .
5:24. Scotty. It's not the flat surface of the disc brake hat that's sticking to the wheel, it's the circular collar in the center of the hat that fits into the wheel. You can see the corrosion in your video. You need to clean this off as well as the center of the wheel using a wire wheel and then coat both with grease or anti-seize. Just finished my 47th Minnesota winter.
I can't believe they got rid of zirk fittings on almost everything except 3/4 and 1 ton pickups. The old vehicles I used to own never needed any suspension work, they were greased every time I changed my oil. I bought a 1/2 ton about 5 years ago and was amazed they make trucks without fittings.
That’s normal for us Scotty. Never seen a braking system that is less rusty. I’m in southern Ontario, Canada.
I know the pain, I live here as well.
Spray your wheels/brakes off as much as possible during winter and they won't look that way
Yes I live here as well and change my wheels over between summer and winter myself. I have never seen less rust than what he had there but I do lubricate the surfaces so I have no issues. Also, 2009 Volvo c30 driven all winter has no rust, probably because I get it oil sprayed regularly and spray wash the salt off regularly. Cleaning and lubricating, folks.
Nice. I was taught to use anti-seize on the front of the rotor/back of the rim to prevent it from corroding and not being able to remove the wheel in the future.
… well, … I’ve heard you never put a lubricant on lugs, as they’ll allow the nuts to loosen, even if properly torqued. Also, the corrosion should be removed from the hub and the inside of the removed rim to insure a cleaned, flat surface in order to prevent lug nuts from loosening … I had a Honda Odyssey with aluminum wheels that needed this done once a year - almost lost a front wheel …
I put a tiny amount of silver anti sieve on all lugs on our boat trailer. Check torque after 50 miles. Never had an issue and we boat in salt water.
Same here. My cousin is a seasoned mechanic and he said the same thing. Never on lug nuts.
I put a drop of engine oil on the thread of the lug nut 🔩 for decades.
Then torque it to OEM spec.
Never have any problem.
Only note that the studs and the nuts looks like new everytime during winter tire change over.
I am getting sick and tired randomly some mechanic over tighten those lug nuts to over 250 ft/lb on a manufacturer spec of 87 ft/lb wheel when buying new tires with installation.
@@loktom4068 that sounds like a better idea. Thx for sharing.
I've put anti-seize on lug nuts for over 40 years and never had one come loose. I don't put lube on the shoulder where the nut contacts the rim though, that's where I want lots of friction.
I have the same car, doing the same thing also in MA and the creaking is driving me nuts. Fortunately for me all the mechanics I have taken the car to have been honest and said there is nothing wrong. Now I know what to do.
Just spray all of the rubber bushings with silicone lube. There is usually no need to remove the wheels. Easy.
@@wholeNwon Thank you I wasn’t looking forward to removing the wheels.
You could use AT-205 Reseal that rejuvenates dried out rubber
Hello Scotty... ...I put a light coat of synthetic break grease on my lug nut seats and on the lug studs. Never have to fight with removing lug nuts. Never had a problem with lug nuts backing out.
I would never allow lube of any kind to get on stud threads of lug nuts.
Yes Scotty! I want to be like you. And fix my vehicles myself! Scotty you are an awesome mechanic!
Don't do it! Lol jk. Toyotas you maintain, .Gm you repair" 💩 Honda makes some fine cars as well
The Japanese build EXCELLENCE" Motorcycles, Cars, Generators....World Class F-1....Overall, I gotta hand it to Honda"
That Huge Mural .
"BEST ON 🌎 EARTH"
I won't argue with.
I would recommend spraying that grease on the corresponding spots on the wheel instead of the rotor. Less chance of getting it on the working surface of the rotor. Also good time to Mop n Glo your tires 🌟😁 🌟. I'm surprised Scotty wasn't spraying those bushings with that ATP-205 he's so fond of.
Yes I thought AT205 was the ultimate rubber preservative ?
Yeah it's bad up here.. I live in South Jersey, and I sanded and painted my Brakes and caliper's once a year I will take Black spray and a Scrub pad and rough up any rust spots I see and then hit it with some paint to fight the rust.. Its a losing battle but it's still one you should try and maintain.. I totally took Scotty's advise on this.. Just got done doing my Car yesterday.. I did a CVT Drain and fill and while I was under the car I hit everything I could get to with the white grease.. Car drives and feels a little smoother.. I am already on 3 set of new front struts' also have new control arms and Ball joints.. Did the front and back breaks last year.. rotors and pads.. But every little thing scotty tells me to do I do.. When you own a Nissan Juke, Tuned to 260 AWDHP with a CVT, All your spare money goes to precautionary maintenance.. Sad but true if you want your car to last till the payments are up..
When I first started to buy aluminum alloy rims (in the 70's) I learned that the rims would weld themselves to the rotor and wheel hub. Also those steel lug nuts, with the polished stainless steel caps on them will weld themselves to the lug holes. Rather than do what you do, I use a Never-Seize compound. It's a brush on silver material. Since using this I've never had any problem.
Had a 67 Cougar that someone put grease fittings on the ball joints and control arms so it was easy to keep lubricated.
The problem with vehicles in winter weather states is that people don't wash them enough during the winter. I wash or spray my 2013 Malibu at least 2-3 times a week during winter and thats why my original brakes pads with 89k still have 40% remaining!
I spray loads of silicone lube on all the rubber bushings and parts every time I’m working on the car,all the gaiters etc
Really soak the rubber parts
The reason tie rods and ball joints don't need grease is because the inside is now plastic rather than metal so you don't have to worry about binding and what not. Also never grease your stud threads because lug nut torque specifications are set to be torqued DRY and not lubricated. Never over tighten your lug nuts
Exactly and tighten them to spec (torque wrench) in the proper pattern.
Too right, Michael. Grease or lube of any sort will affect stated torque readings AND too, any 'lube' on the wheel studs will potentially loosen the lug nuts!
Scotty! No lube on the faces of the brake rotor face or hub. Derust if you like, though. The clamping force of those surfaces help prevent the rotor from slamming back and forth against the wheel studs (rarely bolts). Much respect from me!
Scotty your videos are indispensible !! The other tool that has saved me a lot of time and money over the past 25 years is the Plews grease needle. At 150K on my 2000 F150 a tire tech told me I would need new tie rod ends and ball joints though no unusual tire wear . On the lift he yanked on the wheel and was astonished no free play in any direction. He'd never heard of grease needles. Two pumps of grease once a year and some spoogy exudate . Now at 350K starting to get a little up and down so might only get 400K on the ball joints and tie rods.
That CRVs intake hose could have dry rotted and has some cracks in it, also the knock sensor goes back on the k24 and drops gas mileage terribly. I have an 03 accord and replacing the knock sensor increased my gas mileage from 21ish back up to the 29-30 it used to get. Also replacing the dry rotted intake hose helped with my rough idle because it was cracked in multiple places.
Great advice
Whoa, that 0 degree nozzle... might be a little too... ouch... for the rubber bushings. That thing will take off 30 year old chewing gum. I can imagine what it'll do to a piece of car rubber.
Never wash your radiator or air conditioner coil with a pressure washer you will bend the fins making it hard for it to cool.
Where's Scotty ? That garage is so tidy!
Still got the geometro by Suzuki 993 2002 185k
Back in the 50's us guyz used brake fluid on the booshangs. Good stuff, wouldn't dry.
dONT even THINK ABOUT leaving us Scotty. Your my favorite . from a fellow engineer & master tech
One thing about your video blogs! Your son's cars are working right. For you making your videos. I really injoy watching them! Thank you! Scotty!😊
Trucks with leaf springs are particularly susceptible to squeaks, been spraying mine with silicone grease for years.
Hey Scottie I can see that power washer compromising that rubber bushing especially when they get old and stiff , if it splits than you have a real problem
I Love this guy Scotty . Honest and smart
We love Ya, Scotty!! You have given us years of Joy!!
Scottie get well my friend. Your the best in this crooked the industry.
Scotty is in love with his pressure washer. Ain't it great when you find something that really works.
That might be hs son's pressure washer? Good one for sure though
I have always used anti-seize on wheel studs and center hubs. never a problem
Me too...for 50 years
@@rogerwhiting9310 So you been over torqueing your lugs for 50 years? Surprised non of them have snapped from doubling the torque on them.
@@pheelix- nope. I don't think it causes that all....nor does the dealer.
@@rogerwhiting9310 it does actually, check out Torque Test Channel. They did a video on torque wrenches and one of the tests was lugs with anti-seize. wrench was set to 100ish, and it torqued to 200.
I was warned that putting lube on lugs could cause the bolts to stretch when getting the nuts to proper torque.
Thestargazer the studs yes, notice he didn’t get it on the studs. The studs is the part you want to avoid.
Need more info on the pressure washer. Absolutely need one of those.
Grandfalls Pressure Washer
Get a gas one.
costs $309 bucks...
@@captaingenius-o1c Yeah there expensive, also a long pipe and accessories will cost more too.
I live in VT and travel to Montreal alot. I have to put anti-sieze everywhere or I break breaker bars! I look like the Tin man when I'm done.
I wouldn't use a pressure washer anywhere near rubber seals, especially the table mounts. Best to leave it be. I do agree with lubrication on rubber for noise prevention only if it's necessary. I would only use a lub that is not harmful for rubber too. Some may dry out and eventually crack the rubber. I was actually shocked that Scotty put a pressure washer near those mount bushings.
I agree. Pressure washes are useless as cleaners in 90% of cases. Sandpaper for the rusted sections, air blower to clean it out, followed by some bituminised anti rust aerosol to seal it. I'd actually apply it to those parts when new as a prevention.
I use a pressure washer the same way. I just blast out the dirt and the gravel and whatever loose crap is sitting there. It works awesome. You don't sit there and run a bead concentrated for one or two minutes and that's not what he did either.
Thanks Scotty! My car has been squeaking when I go over speed bumps and over the curb to my driveway. Not a big deal but not nice. I bought white lithium grease and sprayed all of the rotating points where the springs and such are mounted to the frame. The squeaking went away! I appreciate the info you shared. Thanks!
Love Scotty honest as the day is long.
I pull my breaks every 6 months or 6 K miles since I live in Central NY state to make sure they look OK and everything is moving. Fun stuff.
I always keep a can of lithium grease around. It also works well for door hinges, slides, and latches. Lithium grease was made for these applications where low-speed high-wear contact surfaces are. I also keep a can of "dry" silicone handy for weather seals, door locks (older cars), etc.
scottie has all the joy...of a child...thank you scottie....
The red tip on my Gas Honda pressure washer just shredded the bushing to pieces, lol. So now i use the yellow tip and it washes without shredding.
Good info. I'll do the same to the bushings on my 12 year old vehicle. A a few sprays of that lithium grease should do it.
I love all your videos, being a mechanic for many years in Massachusetts I just wanted to say about the wheel removal and install, please let everyone know that the corrosion around the Hub and wheel center must be cleaned off and the face of both mating surfaces! It's a pain but may keep the wheel from coming loose! Again this is a northan problem because of the Salt 🧂,
When you do it yourself you spend time, save money but what you learn is priceless.
Dont ever retire!!!!!!!!!! I need to watch more videos! Keep making more!!!!
I used to work with a buddy who was a long time tire shop veteran. He freaked when I put lubricant on the wheel studs.
I considered his point of view for a long time. But it is ultimately an inclined plane. Metal on metal. Back in the day, a certain auto manufacturer (whose name is heresy on this channel) used to put left handed thread on the left side! I think the important thing is to check your lugs on occasion and rotate your tires every oil change?
I recommend if you live in the salt belt to have your vehicle oil sprayed. Krown rust control, Rust Check ETC.
There was actually a TSB for this model of Corolla about suspension noises. T-SB-0068-20 Rev1 2020/10/16 Squeak Noise From Front Lower Suspension Arm Bushing.
I live up here in the northeast. And when I do a Brake Job, I don't rely on that petroleum jelly in a packet. I used to use anti-seize, just because of all the salt that's used on the roads around here! I enjoy watching you're videos & content. I & my brother used to have a shop together. Surprisingly nothing ever came back. And we could do it all at an affordable price !!!
I use anti seize on the brake rotor/wheel mating surface (not on the studs) up here in Canada or in a short time your wheels will seize to the brake rotor. Have always done that on my vehicles from new.
Why not on the studs? u just need to use ever so little amount of the stuff on the studs and your good
@@nightmare8162 way too easy to over torque the wheel nuts especially with alloy wheels
White Lithium grease is what I use for squeaky garage door. I learned that from the garage door guy.
I bought a 76 Plymouth that had been hit hard on the passenger side. It had spent all its life in Arizona, never get any salt on it. The owner asked me if I wanted any parts, he knew I had a Plymouth Duster. He wanted the disk brakes for his older Barracuda. I could have the car free of cost IF I removed all the brake parts and returned them to him.
I was amazed when I started tearing it down. Once the wrench snapped the bolts loose I could turn them with one finger! After struggling with rusty cars in Wisconsin all my life, that was like working on a new car.
I saved the engine and trans because they were identical to my Duster. Headlights, ignition system, wheels, all the bulbs, radiator. I sold the hood and trunk lid then junked the body.
Now, if I plan to buy a used car, I search for one from a state that doesn't use salt.
This guy simply can't be beat!
As someone who worked in the oilfield for over 40 years, I put grease on everything before I reinstall it. When I replaced all of the front end parts on an old Astro Van I bought as a project after I retired, when I took it for a front end aliment the mechanics were cussing me because of all the grease they got on their hands. I told them in 20 years you will still be able to remove them.
same lol
in the country I live in, they use an incredible amount of salt on the roads in the winter. winter can be harsh. not like in alaska then but hard enough somewhere
I’ll bet that Scotties kids would not dare to buy anything but Toyotas !!’
He bought the cars for the kids lol
His grand son buys a lot of different brands.
They would be written out of the Will!
His grandson once bought a BMW😁
He would take up smoking just to put a cig out on their necks
Scotty finishes the job by power-spraying the grease off the concrete, onto the car in the background. And THAT, my friend, is classic Scotty.
The inserts inside of the bushings are attached to the rubber and do not spin inside. Adding grease does nothing to a bushing like that other than attracting dirt and sand. I would research and reconsider this video.
Agreed...👍
Like you guys know more than a mechanic of 53 years gtfo😂😂😂👊🏻
@@za9737 A mechanic who knows all the tricks to have you keep bringing the car back to him so he can fill his pockets.
They don't lubricate undercarriage anymore like in the past. I remember there were shops that got a high pressure oil to spray all joints. You hit the bumpy roads so smooth after.
Great advice Scotty. I would recommend though, instead of getting the cheapest can of LG, get the WD-40 Specialist can. Instead of the tiny red straw that always comes off/gets lost, it has a tube attachment you leave down for a finer, wider spray, or flip up to use the straw for a thicker spray and extension. There is a shaker ball in can, so I think the grease is heavier. At any rate, it's worth the extra couple bucks for the spray attachment alone.
WD in WD40 stands for Water Disbursement. It's not a lubricant. For what it's worth
@D Greco.. not a lot, I'm afraid... the original WD-40 stood for Water Displacing. The co. makes all kinds of products. The one I'm referring to is White Lithium grease. BTW, the original WD-40 certainly is a lubricant too..
@@land7776 Never used it on front brakes but used it on squeaky doors. Works well on the hinges.
That stuff works great on door hinges and latches too... also the sun roof slides!
My brother used to spray white lithium grease on main and rod bearings during a rebuild. Good stuff.
lifting cars up at the chassis crimp point is how rust starts. the metal jack scratches at that spot and bends it, breaking the rust proofing. or at least im pretty sure thats how it all starts in those areas, thats where my car is rusting to death from because of that and its gone to my rocker panels and made some pretty big rust holes. best to lift a car with a proper hoist where it lifts on all 4 corners to not bend the crimps and the lift or contact points have rubber pads to help not scratch. they put those rubber parts for that reason. you can notice the crimp point bending where scotty used his floor jack and getting scraped too no doubt. if you're at home its best to use the included scissor jack and put a folded paper towel between the scissor jack and the undercarriage where it pushes on to prevent paint damage on the bottom in those areas. the scissor jack doesn't rely on the crimped metal to lift the car but on the sides of it. if you have damage in these areas shoot stubborn grease on there every now and then if youre in high rust risk areas
That lithium grease is also good for your garage door; all the hinges, rollers, etc., etc.
I learned that from a professional garage door guy; and my 20-year-old sectional garage door still rolls up and down perfectly. (oh, every 6 or 9 months is enough)
I just did that yesterday. Sprayed the throttle body after replacing the air filter on my Cadillac XTS and made a big difference. Runs nice and smooth whereas it was shuddering or not accelerating at all when you push the gas occasionally, would stall out after a long drive and actually stalled at a stoplight recently. Still can't find a gas filter for this thing. This car shows warnings off and on and then they just go away and OnStar or the shops can't tell you what the hell it is. It's been happening for years actually. Unfortunately on these Cadillacs it really is the shocks and struts and everything else creaking and grinding and groaning.
Gas filter is probably included in the fuel pump. They are not serviceable.
What’s the throttle body?
@@niiwyc5096 the housing of the butterfly valve known as the throttle where the black plastic house connects the engine to the airfilter housing
That's interesting. I just got something worked on on my rear drive shaft, and the mechanic told me it's very important to get the zerks greased. Old school.
Lithium grease swells rubber. Use silicone spray
Yeah, sometimes I hate when he makes videos just to make videos
Wish you were my neighbour Scotty your a legend it’s funny because I’m getting creaking on my mr2 road star. Your a living legend.
Put the white lith on the wheel insted of the rotor. After bolting on the wheel power wash the rim. Done
My car was originally from Massachusetts. The rust is so bad you can peal chunks of it from the engine. Still runs though!
Don't use Lithium grease on rubber bushings. But you can use Silicone , which is good for rubber.
So it's actually a "Corroda"?😂
Very rarely does a creaking suspension just need a little spray.. usually if something is creaking, then its gonna go very soon
Some of mine have been cracked for more than 12 years.
@@wholeNwon no
I use wet silicone spray. Lithium grease seems to thicken over time, but hey, do whatever works for you. Just don’t use petroleum based products like WD40, they will deteriorate the rubber bushings. Also on my wife’s 12 Chrysler 200, I put a light coating of grease just around the hubs when it was new and the wheels still fall right off. It also helps to rotate tires, most people don’t and that’s how corrosion builds up and it takes a hammer to get the wheels off
I'm also a Masshole. I use anti-seize everywhere, not just lugnuts.
Question: A-205 vs lithium green , which one we should apply to the rubber pushing ?
You told us in another video that A-205 is good for rubber . Can we apply both A-205 and Lithium green in same time to protect rubber and fix friction noise ?
When a bushing starts squeaking or groaning, it's because the bushing has failed. Bushings have a metal (usually steel) inner sleeve , and a steel outer sleeve that is a press fit into the boss of the control arm. These steel sleeves are vulcanized to the rubber center part of the bushing. When they squeak, either the inner sleeve or the outer sleeve (usually the inner) have broken away from the rubber center, and when flexed, instead of the bushing deforming, the sleeve just turns inside of thhe rubber causing the squeak you hear. On a good bushing, thhere are no moving parts, only the rubber component that absorbs the twisting or flexing motion. You can grease them all you want, but the squeak will return. They're still failed bushings.
Scotty you’re a national gem!