Very good question. Yes that is totally fine just don’t keep going for weeks and months on that weak or dead battery. Many may ask but how come. You’d be surprised how some folks life’s are very busy and they can’t attend to the car and they prefer just to jump it and keep going.
@TheCarCareNut I got in my Little Toyota Auris 2013 1.4d a few weeks ago and the battery had died so I got a Jump start and went straight to buy a new one and fitted it myself in there Carpark, made sure I bought a good make Stop/Start Yuasa. Not bad going 1 battery after 137,000 Miles and I do my own Oil and filter changes every 6000 miles. Absolutely brilliant Little Car and pulls like at train even uphill. 62Mpg UK 🇬🇧 what's not too like.👍👍👍
@@TheCarCareNut Unfortunately I am not DIY when it comes to cars, except for the battery. If I can do it myself any one can. Driving on the battery that failed you once is a total negligence
You touched on the battery a little and was wondering when would you replace the battery ? Wait until problems ? Or ? Thank you for all the great tips on car care @@TheCarCareNut
I drive 200-500 miles 6 days a week. My Toyota Camry is my life's blood. This info is priceless. I have found an accessory that saved my a lot of headache in my previous Corolla, almost by accident, I purchased a cigarette lighter plug splitter with a voltage indicator. I needed it to run my cell phone, camera, and other electronics . When my battery light came on, I saw the decrease in voltage to 11.5 volts. I knew to immediately proceed to the nearest auto parts store that provides free alternator and bettery tests. They found that the alternator was on it's last last leg. I limped the car home about 25 miles and replaced it the next day. I also fully charged the battery and saved the battery from a premature death.
By charging your battery you also prevented shortening the life of that new alternator you installed. The information in this video is spot on. Career mechanic here.
@@piyushaggarwal6294 You don't need anything else but a working alternator and a healthy battery. A normal working car doesn't need a voltage stabilizer, as there is one already built into the car, usually the car computer itself which controls and monitors the voltage.
@@redbaron6805 i been driving on dead altenator for almost a year now and prob another year to go since its winter.... i have solar on roof of my car so there is a workaround if you have a good battery and a solar panel. its not a soution for long... for an old banger its quite adequate.
I am 41 years old, but in my entire life I haven’t meet a better teacher to explain something I can understand something from first lesson. Thanks mate!
I remember being able to buy a rebuild kit for a GM alternator for about $12 and have it up and running again. It basically came with a set of brushes, a diode trio, regulator and a couple of other things.
There’s an old guy in a wheelchair that lives out in the country, near me, and all he does is rebuild alternators. My Camry needed one and the cheapest one from the parts store was nearly $200. He rebuilt mine for $15.
@@waynenoll1967 we had a place near me called teli-ignition. They used to rebuild alternators to about 50 to 100% in greater capacity. I had to do that back in the late '80s early '90s for my car stereo and race car. They would punch additional holes in the casing for additional cooling, higher end windings, etc. $15 is cheap though, he must have enjoyed what he did and wanted to keep busy.
@@BruceLee-xn3nn today's alternators are much more complex, than the old school, one wire alternators we had back in the day. Yes, at that core they are similar, but they are now more. Computerized. The newer things are, the more complex they are.
As an Electrical Engineer by profession since 1988 I can say: your explanation about the alternator working principles and how to take care of it is absolutely comprehensive, precise and correct, albeit easy to understand, I’ve ever seen! Greetings from Brazil!
@@JM-kn9dh On the drawing he drew of the alternator at 4:20. The rotor is an electromagnet. the electromagnet is powered by the battery(accumulator). when the electromagnet is on(powered by the accumulator) it creates a magnetic field. this field has a north and south side(you can google magnetic field). now if we look from the point of view of one of the stator coils(there is 3 on his drawing lets look from the pov of one of them), when the electromagnet rotates for one half of the circle(180 degrees) it pushes the electrons in that one coil, in one direction and creates a positive bump, and than the other side of the magnet comes and the magnetic field is opposite of the first, so it pushes the electrons in the opposite direction creating the negative bump. this happens at all 3 stator coils at different times because they are positioned 120 degrees apart from each other. if you want a deeper explanation google this: ac generation - energy education
For a first-time car owner like me, it kinda blew my mind that weak battery can cause bad gas mileage. My car suddenly had horrible gas mileage out of nowhere, and I tried replacing spark plugs, carbon cleaning the engine, change oil etc. and still bad mileage. Now I am 100% sure it is the battery because my alternator does make a small whining noises. Thank you so much for making this video AMD, actually lifesaving!
@victorgomez6942 I did buy a new battery, and the whining noises are gone at that time. But it was a 12-year-old car at that point, so the alternator might also need a replacement soon enough. I've already sold the car though!
@@ejeruksperes I replaced the alternator brushes and the regular on my '97 4 Runner. I did it as an experiment to see how long it can last. I did it a couple of years and my alternator is still running fine. The output is up to spec. The cost was less than $30.
I wish this channel existed 10 years ago, when I bought my first Toyota. If only I had known how to properly maintain them, I'm sure They would still all be on the road. Thanks for what you do
As someone who has spent a lifetime working with these basic principles I can vouch that this explanation was absolutely perfect at the depth it was intended for.
I’ve been preaching this for years. I tell folks if you forgot something on and ran the battery down and have to jump it off to get home, sure, get home. But when you do get home connect simple small battery charger suitable for the kind of battery your car has overnight. Then take it somewhere you trust and have the battery condition tested. Good information as always sir. God bless you and yours.
If you limp home with car in a low gear (higher than normal RPM) you will keep the alternator cooler. The pulley fan is moving more air, and the ROTOR will need less current to charge. Less rotor current means less internal heat.
I'm an EE and enjoyed your explanation. The diode failure you noted is what happens when the diode shorts. Diodes can also fail by opening. In that type failure you lose one of your 3 phases and the alternator might still work at low load with some RPM but if you load it at idle the output will be low. I think the modern alternator "improvements" aren't so great. When did you ever see a plain old pulley fail? When have you seen an internally regulated Toyota alternator not regulate quickly enough? The efficiency improvements are very small for a large increase in cost. How's 20 years, over 260K miles and still going sound? When my old Corolla alternator fails I'll open it up, check the diodes, bearings, and likely repair it by replacing the brushes.
*Another old EE here: You are spot-on and have the plan. If the rectifier diodes F/B ratios match, they're healthy don't have to mess with them. Cheers!*
The reason why newer alternators have an overruning pulley is not to protect the alternator it's to protect the belt drive. Why ? Well they were not needed for lower output alternators, below 70 Amps or so. But modern cars with ever increasing electrical load, heated rear window, heated seats, heated mirrors etc etc. need an alternator that will output 120, 150 or even 200 Amps. The bigger the alternator the heavier the rotor, and since the engine does not spin at constant speed, it's more of a sine wave due to combustion pulses when the engine slows down slightly the alternator will try to back drive the engine, which will tension the belt in the reverse direction. When combustion occurs the engine will accelerate again and the belt will tension in the drive direction. The constant belt tension changes will very quickly overheat and destroy the tensioner damper, damage the belt tensioner, and possibly even shred the belt.
@@petarmiletic997 With many vehicles over many miles I've never had any problems like that. Some had up to 130A alternators. I think most of this is about the last out to 3 decimal places efficiency and emissions nonsense. I don't think the OEMs have any desire for their cars to last 30 years and a half million miles either. Engine pulses are dampened pretty well by the flywheel and other loads. Of course the more cylinders...
@@petarmiletic997 Yeah and one of these modern marvels couldn't keep the guy's battery charged because his drive to work was "TOO SHORT". ua-cam.com/video/I_KmO-KaR4A/v-deo.html I'll stick with my old vehicle, at least then i don't have to worry about a short drive being a problem to start it again.
I had my dream car Datsun 280z in the mid 80s, always working on it every weekend.. The alternator would overheat and burn out the diodes. So i ran wires out to the firewall mounted on an aluminum heat sink with HD 50A diodes, FWBR. Problem solved.🎉 Love your work AMD, may our Lord bless you 🙏
Excellent information. After 40 years of doing all my own car repairs, wrenching on equipment, etc it never dawned on me nor did I learn from anyone that when possible always put a charger on battery if it goes dead for some reason vs jump starting and letting alternator do the work. Makes perfect sense. Also the advice to pay up for an OEM replacement can't be emphasized enough. I have known this for decades but recently in a bind to get a car back on road ASAP I bought aftermarket. I'm on 3rd warranty replacement in less than 2 years and warranty or not next time I'll pay $400 for an OEM. Thank You for the great video!
I am a certified mechanic as well I'm 65 years old! you doing a great job my friend! I have a 2015 Chevy Express I bought brand new got almost 330,000 mi on it and never replaced the alternator always stay dry as in the front and it's away from the radiator
AMD, My Denso alternator is 19 years old and thanks to your tips, I now know how to make it last another 19 years. On the subject of numbers, you have crossed the 900,000 SUBSCRIBER barrier 😁🥳🥳🥳
As an old mechanic, I always recommend that when people buy a new car, take it home and put the battery on a Smart Charger overnight. They are ALWAYS only about half charged, which puts stress on your alternator. Your Battery will thank you for it.
good idea, i'm a car tint installer and wonder why new car didnt crank when after like 20 min keeping the car on for acc like window and radio due to work, thanks for the info
Thank you for all your great videos🙏 A older and wise mechanic told me 30 years ago: To keep alternator and electronics healthy=>replace battery every 4 years regardless. To keep engine healthy=>replace radiator and thermostat every 8 years regardless...and new OEM oil filter@EVERY oil change... So far it has worked for me...
Educational for people that are ignorant to car maintenance and have no common sense. I have always replaced parts from a junk yard rather than from an Auto Zone type store. NAPA is probably the best replacement parts store of them all.
Awesome timing my wife's alternator died yesterday. We were lucky to make it home... It died 20 feet from my driveway lol. Will receive my replacement on Monday. Thank you for the amazing chanel. Happy holidays
17:21 So getting to this point, it seems to me the best thing is to keep the receipt for the battery (photo copy it so it doesn't fade like on the thermal paper receipts are printed on!) if the battery dies and it's within the warranty period, pull it and get it replaced! If it's out of warranty, buy a new one (agm)!
The only alternator problems on Toyotas was about 30 years ago on the mid 1990's Corollas that came with Delphi Alternators instead of Denso ones. Denso alternators are usually good for at least 100K miles. I shake my head whenever I see other techs or service advisers at my dealership selling non-Denso after-market alternators that are usually only good for a couple years just because it's too late to will-call the part and don't wanna carry over the job to the next day.
My 34 year old Lincoln mark vii with ton of miles and factory alternator didn't go out until last year. Hell it's still got 7 of the original spark plug wires and it sees 500 miles a week of daily driving
I'm not an engineer, only took some physics in high-school. At 6:30 instead of cutting off a half of the waveform wouldn't they use a bridge rectifier to invert it, so not to lose 50% of power? On the other hand at first I thought why don't they use a permanent magnet in the rotor. I never knew that's how they regulate an alternator output, that's brilliant!
The no nonsense info we all need to keep our cars running as long as possible. Thanks CCN! Very much appreciated in these tough times with high used and new car prices! 🙏🙏
Great illustration and description on the operation of the alternator. I was an electronics instructor for 3 out of 10 years in the Navy and half of the instructors did not explain generation and rectification of voltage as quickly and clearer as you did here.
Been wandering this planet for sixty years and I was today years old to learn that an Alternator generates Alternating Current (AC) and with the function of Diodes converts those angry pixies into Direct Current (DC). I knew alternators had diodes, just never understood what exactly their function was or what they did. MIND BLOWN! Thank you for the lesson!
My 2005 Camry LE that I bought new was an engineering marvel. The alternator was original...among other parts...that lasted 218,000 miles until I sold it in 2020. Then I bought a new Camry. You "get a lot of car with Toyota."
That was mostly true before not anymore. Turbocharged engines and 2grade assembly quality of the entire vehicles is the norm nowadays. Transmissions are not as well made either that said there are still a few old ones available and still new so buy or regret later.
Good advice. Always used a battery keeper here in Northern Ontario. My Camery battery was healthy for 7 years. The alternator was a wonderful innovation; my first cars had generators...yes old geezer here. Your explanation of how an alternator was a treat in simplicity...said from a retired physics-type guy. Cheers.
The CCN is a,"treat" indeed - 100% Geezer2Geezer *APPROVED* Yea Physics type guy, those energy infrastructure equations for EV's might seem a bit sus, LOL. Do you remember adjusting the regulating relay coil spring tension used with 12V Alternator Systems? How about those _much older_ DC Generators, 6V Batteries and using a glass Hygrometer as the tool of choice for fine-tuning the 6V battery charging voltage? Almost a century later (2024) we have UA-cam, Cellphones, GPS, digital scan/diagnostic/programming tools, the amazing $20 component identifier, High Bandwidth 4-channel Digital Oscilloscopes, inexpensive borescope cameras, DVMs, and SDR, VNA and Tiny SA tools for the RF spectrum. Unfortunately we've also been, "gifted" with those 2450 battery-sucking, proximity-activated-transponder smart key RF remotes (Ford and Toyota) that have made modern car theft a quick and easy, contactless sport. Amazing progress; now machine-learning algorithms, AI and sooner or later, safer-than-human self-driving cars. There's a profit-driven dark side though; remote industrial-scale killing using (proxy) AI drone warfare in other countries! (wasn't in the glossy advertisement brochure?) Too bad these young whippersnappers don't yet realize it's the Creature From Jeckyll Island and totalitarianism sneaking up from behind on a secret multi-vectored attack mission to destroy absolutely everything for the propagandized, great unwashed... (Now that's progress!) Good luck everybody, take care of you and yours!
@@TonyRule Yes, pretty ditsy (dittsy?) of me, I thuk. Didn't learn to type until I was 40. But at 14, I could do 12 words per minute in Morse Code...a handy skill.
I am an electrical engineer. In automobile I am a DIY. I have never brought my vehicles to a mechanic except for a tire replacement. The three phases you wrote should have 120 degree phase differences. The circuit needs three diodes to regulate the ac voltages to dc. The circuit needs a capacitor as a final dc filter, and that capacitor is the battery.
Great video by AMD! Here is another thing that may prolong the life of an alternator. Before parking and shutting off the engine, turn off the headlights (if it's nighttime), lower the climate control blower motor speed, or turn off the blower motor altogether. This gives the alternator a little bit of time to not be under load and to cool down before shutting off the engine. Again, this may prolong the life of the internals of the alternator.
@randyrankin589 What you suggest is utter nonsense. An alternator is not like a turbocharger with hot exhaust gases passing through it and depends on oil flow to cool and lubricate the bearings. An alternator uses sealed bearings and electrical components whose temperature will not increase after shutdown.
Wow, that was one of the best balanced videos I've seen. Right level of tech depth to educate anyone about how an alternator works and how to prolong it's life. Thank you for making this video. Genuinely very helpful.
Very good simple explanation but that covered “early” alternators because modern alternators contain 6-9 diodes to not be wasteful because when you just cut off the negative wave entirely you lose it so the efficiency early on was 50%. Adding 3 more diodes on the negative side of the ac facing away from ground forces the waves to turn around and then the bottom wave band is not lost.
You are a teacher...!! Thank you for the explanation. As a DIY and a retired carpenter with a pretty high skill set you continue to make me smarter. I tell people if its 5yrs old, don't even clean the terminals. Just buy a new one. Yes, keep your terminals clean...
Great explanation! My alternator was failing - at the time, it sounded like a drill with that whining sound. It was my first time hearing it, and I was glad I had it fixed before anything major happened!
This is the most informative lesson I've ever learned over my whole career as an auto mechanic. God, where have you been all my life. Mechanics and DIYers are totally blessed with your advises that virtually pertains to any vehicle. I'm too old now but still work on vehicle's and never had formal technical education in this field but was able to be ASE certified. It's a good thing I was also a carpenter, electrician and plumber which help me a lot in my family business trade as a part time mechanic. I wish you were around 50 yrs ago, thank you so much. Subscribers also benefit from your teachings, I pray your subscribers exceeds many more millions.
I can't express how happy I am to see your channel getting so close to its first million. As a fellow Auto Technician and brother in Christ, I highly appreciate every single second of all your videos. Thank you for setting a standard on what Automotive Service should be.
Probably should have had my 06 Camrys alternator replaced around then. But incidentally it was on the drive I crossed 186000 (after I began going down a steep highway ramp) was when it showed that battery light and made clear something was wrong. Hopefully many years from now I'll say how long the remanufactured alternator (only one in stock) from o'reilly lasted if I hold on to the Camry
@@davidglad More than likely the brushes are getting worn out. You can order a brush set/holder (it's all once piece) for like $20 or less and replace it yourself. Remove the three screws on the alternator end cover, remove the two small screws on the brush holder, install the new brush holder, pull the brush holding pin (it holds the spring-loaded brushes in place until installation), reinstall the cover, and Bam! you saved yourself $$$! Rockauto & OEM Toyota parts sites have it. Good luck!
The original alternator on my 2011 Camry V6 is still working fine at 274,000 miles.... knock on wood...I should probably get ready to install those replacement brushes I bought for it...
Brilliant lesson as usual from this guy. I now also realized 'watch what liquid leaks' on exposed wirings of alternator in future. That water blasting / cleaning of engine bay needs to make sure ALL electrical wirings are covered up before cleaning, including 'degreasing'. Also that 'poor milage can also be linked to poor battery condition '. Even the 'wrong battery type/ CCA' can affect alternator demise.
I remember driving a friends corolla in outback Australia and the alternator light came up. It was 3 hours between towns and we were half way. After a few checks we drove onto the next town with the AC off. A local garage rebulit it as we waited with genuine denso parts. (The brushes had worn down and they replaced bearings and the regulator) These days we would have to wait 2 or 3 days and possibly have some aftermarket junk fitted for a way bigger bill.
Maybe next time you could touch on user-replaceable alternator components, mainly bearings and brush packs. Decades ago I used to swap in new brushes in GM starters, rather than buy a rebuilt starter; it was obviously far less costly, but even when time is important, the existing unit (starter, alternator) is OEM and superior in quality and condition to whatever rebuilt unit you could purchase. When you return the old unit to get your 'core fee', you are giving up a far better component than what they sold you. With new brushes and freshly lubed bearings, your old unit would outlast and outperform a rebuilt.
Now is definitely NOT the time to be buying a car. Average car cost $47K?! That's insane! Check your ego at the door - you need a vehicle to get back and forth to work, not to impress anyone. An auto finance rate of 7%+ is an insult to anyone with excellent credit. No thanks. Those new cars can sit on the lot and rot away for all I care.
The best course of action is to ask a consultant or investing coach for guidance or assistance on purchasing a car. Speaking with a consultant helped me acquire my car effortlessly using the best plan available without affecting my portfolio.
WOW what an awesome informative video. I found this channel when I was doing search on buying a used Highlander. This guy saved my money after buying my Highlander and doing all the maintenance on 2GR-FE. Hope you will hit your 1M soon. You deserve it! Keep up the good work Sir, you're truly a life saver!!
Every time I'm under the hood of my cars I see the dust coating the windings of the alternator, and I want to clean them. You mentioned taking an alternator apart to clean it properly. I'd really appreciate a video on how to do that. Thanks for all your work!
I had to replace the battery in my 2013 Highlander, it was done at Sears, they also replaced the battery terminal clamps. New battery worked well, for about 2 days, then I started having problems, basically when I went to start the vehicle it was dead slow cranking then it’ll start. Long story short I took it to my Toyota dealership & they discovered that the new battery terminal clamps were Not the correct metal type. Yes the type of material affected the battery connection. Once changed, I never had a problem with my battery up until I sold her at 237K miles. Proof newer cars are more technically advanced & the correct knowledge needs to be know to service them. Excellent video. 👍🏾
Thank you so much. You're videos are very informative and fun. I am posting here because this topic (alternators) is kinda interesting to me. In 1995 I bought a used Toyota T100 SR5 (4000k miles). I still own it 29 years later. It has 160k miles and has been used for a variety of purposes over the years. It still has the original alternator on it and it has NEVER given me one bit of a problem over that period. The same is true of the A/C system. In fact, virtually its all original and all functioning like the day the truck was new! The running gear is original and in great condition. I do the maintenance regularly. These things seem bullet proof..... I am now 80 years old and this truck will out live me of course and serve someone else well if properly maintained. It is a California vehicle so rust is not an issue. Honestly, it's truly amazing......
My new favorite UA-cam Car Channel. I now take better care of my Turbo (let it cool down in park for about 30 seconds or so after reaching my destination after driving on the Highway/Interstate), and my Auto Tranny (when on an incline, put the car into Neutral, pop the E-Brake, and then put it into Park, as opposed to popping the E-Brake while still in Drive, then putting it into Park). Thanks man!!! Keep up the amazing work!!!
Great Video! Totally concur as far as replacing the Alt with original Parts. 2 yrs ago the Alt on my ‘07 Vette packed it in. Tried 2 Aftermarket one, both showed they weren’t compatible ,In the end I went to a General Mayhem Part @ about 3x the cost of the Parts-store one, but it worked and still works flawless!
I've been watching this channel for a couple of years now. It's one of the reasons I bought the car I did, a Venza (hybrid). It doesn't have an alternator (no starter either), but I'll still watch the video to support the channel. :)
Great tutorial! Idea for another topic would be the proper way to read your gauges. I installed Voltmeter and Oil Temperature gauges in my car to keep up with its health. It already has Oil Pressure and Water Temperature gauges. A CCN tutorial on these would be much appreciated!
Excellent description and explanation of how an alternator works. In a Porsche 911 you get ridiculous quotes from Porsche dealers to replace an alternator when it could easily be the regulator. Who supplies the alternators ata reasonable price which is a Bosch alternator in the 911.
Great video! This is something most mechanics never cover or talk about. Your explanation on how it works was brilliant, bravo! AMD, you’re a gem! Even the info about leaks and cleaning was right to the point! Thanks!!!
Bought a 92 Lumina from my sister cheap because she was replacing alternators once a year. Very expensive. First thing I noticed was that the alternator wined when using the electric rear defroster. I stopped using the defroster immediately and drove the car many years with no more alternator issues. Since then I have limited rear defroster use in all my cars
Thanks for this! Like many home mechanics i never thought much of letting the car charge a flat battery. Many times i've been told it won't get a perfect full charge this way, but no one ever said it's hard on the alternator
A million subscribers can't be wrong. Man, I wish you were my auto shop teacher in 1968. Your method of teaching is very easy to watch. I don't have any alternator problems at this moment, but I...couldn't...stop...watching!!!!!!! Ha ha ha!!!!
I have been watching your videos lately and honestly I find your personality awesome. Love how you explain the way things are in your view. Wish you had a shop out here in NC instead, I would always take my Tundra to your auto shop then.
Definitely appreciate the information on how the alternator works and thank you for the advice on how to tell if it's about to quit... These days you really don't want to be stranded.
Seeing this video in my feed, and it being such an informative one at that, can mean only one thing. My alternator is about to die, and I'm gonna have to fix it myself! Now I feel equipped to do it! Thanks for a great video! Regards from Denmark!
Excellent video. Had a problem with my Ranger recently. After 2 1/2 hours stuck in hot traffic jam, I stopped at a rest station on I75. No lights on dash or any other signs of a problem. Went to start the truck 10 minutes later - lights on dashboard, but no cranking. Battery was dead, well indicated 2 V on my meter. AAA was called but did not come. Managed to get a boost and drove to get a new battery. It was obvious that the alternator was working hard, but it made it. Put a new battery in the next morning (AAA called at 502 am to ask if I still needed help, fourteen hours later). The truck has been fine ever since. I'm going to get the charging system checked, but your explanation of the role of the battery vs the alternator explained things and makes sense. I have done about 2000 kms since the mishap, so I hope the alternator is ok, but I don't want it to happen again (I was on a trip from Canada to Florida and then back to Canada).
I love explanations like this because it makes troubleshooting so much easier because you understand the process and how it works. Voltage erratic? Well…diode or rectifier issue.
Very informative. Over the years of small repairs on friends and family vehicles I noticed the pattern of alternators and batteries killing each other. Although I couldn’t quite figure out which was the cause. This makes much sense and confirms to me that there was connection. Thanks!
I found that my 20 year old Toyota Starter was killing the battery gradually, with every start. (Battery and Alternator are fine.) After 2nd battery replacement within 30 months, I noticed the slightly slower cranking and measured an excessive post-to-post battery voltage dip. Isolated, a battery load test looks fine. Changed the starter and now that same battery is still working, years later. That was a first for me after several decades, incl 45 years DIY Toyota.
Here in the Philippines, we got a LOT of Skilled Auto Electrician who repair ANY kind of Auto Alternators, so if you have the Original from your car, all you need is a rebuild and use it forever! I've done it for my last car '81 Toyota Alternator (Voltage Regulator Type) and current one ' 91 Isuzu Alternator (IC Type), saves LOT of bucks!
Fantastic presentation! High current is always hard on electronics and it never occured to me that running the vehicle to bring a low battery up would place concerning wear on the alternator even though I know and have measured 7 amps or more in that senario. Now i know how to baby my 2002 Tacoma with 265,000 miles just a little bit better.
I was once going through a flooded área in my Corolla 04' and the battery light lit up for a few secs. I am glad I was not left stranded then, but the alternator survived and never gave me a problem later. Toyotas are wel made indeed
Good morning teacher I’m very excited and very proud to see you today and I thank god to have a opportunity and understand a little bit about the mechanics and thanks again maestro for keeping us teaching and sharing and helping to your students and all your viewers because I’m pretty sure I myself I’m your student why because I learned from you and your work and your knowledge and your passion and your honesty patient and please keep it teaching us and stay positive and keep safe and healthy and god blessed
Thanks for the great lecture. When I hear the whining sounds, I thought it was the idler or tensioner pulley going bad. But it turn out not to be the case, though I reconditioned both easily. But the whining sound stayed, and increasingly frequently, the battery/alternator light comes on, until last week it stays on, and I get only 11.7v at driving. So I let it sit in the driveway since then. Now I understand what to do next. Thank you!
I have owned my 1984 Toyota pickup forever. Now at 253K miles. The alternator has quit working two times in those 39 years. Both times it was the brushes worn out. I just replaced those -- back in business. One brush replacement happened in a rural area and all I could find were generic hardware store brushes. Had to file down the carbon to fit brush holders and rejigger the copper pigtails -- back in business. Amazing that the bearings are still working. I should replace those before the rotar starts rubbing on the stator parts.
My elderly neighbour had a flat battery from leaving the trunk slightly open. I charged it 3 times on my Victron multi stage charger and the little green light came back on. Took it back to her and re-installed it properly - all good. I was tempted to jump start it but time wasn't an issue so probably did everything right inadvertently. I later bought the car from her. It's a terrific 2000 Corolla.
Just to share, the Toyota Fortuner (2016 model and up) alternator bearing gets bad prematurely due to excessive vibration caused by the engine and worn out drive belt. It's a common concern among Toyota Fortuner here in the Philippines. Thank you Mr. Care Care Nuts for your valuable advices. I've been following your channel for more than 2 years now. Cheers!
I had a remanufactured power steering pump leak power steering fluid on my alternator and it eventually killed my alternator. I regret not taking care of that power steering pump when I first found out it was leaking. Lesson learned.
Thanks A. Some useful info. One thing I think you should have added is that you CAN repair those alternators, especially some Toyota densos. What is the most common cause of an alternator failing? Worn brushes. Many Toyota Densos have brushes that are easily replaced and some are difficult. Brushes are cheap. Find out if you have easily replaceable brushes. If you do check them and replace them if worn down. Other causes such as worn bearings are uncommon IMO.
For the cars I'd own for the last 10 years, i'd always add a ground cable/strap/10ga wire from the negative battery terminal to the base or casing of the alternator since most present cars only have a less than 3 grounding points kn the engine, body & AT. Squaring the grounding circuit helped alot from busted bulbs, dimming headlights & of course charging.
I really like this style of video! I learned a bit about what an alternator is and I now know how to maintain it. I feel like I’m taking a college course on Toyotas. Toyota 101! Keep up the great work!
@TheCarCareNut if I ever get rich, the very first thing I will buy, is your services, no matter the price. After 35+ years of dealing with cars and mechanics, you make me want to take a loan, pack up my car into a container and ship it from Europe to your workshop. Thank you for your videos, man, and may God keep you healthy. I learned more from you, than I did from 8 years of electrical school.
This is the best graphic I have ever seen for diagnosing a blown diode. More importantly teaching the same thing. Easy to see the curve, without loving the math. As a person that frequently teaches "normal people" 3 phase power, the reticfication down to DC 24v control power, or "computer power". Thank you for sharing this.
I'd also recommend performing the Big 3 (or Big 4) which is upgrading the small gauge power/ground wire (that goes to the battery) with 100% OFC 0 gauge wiring.
Thank you so much for these videos. Having you explain these common parts and how they work, plus how to take care of them, are my favorite videos of yours. Thanks again!!
Great informative video! It took me several weeks to discover the oil-soaked alternator of my 94 Toyota Pickup was causing the engine to cut out shortly after it started. The $100 Chinese alternator I bought from Amazon is still working 1 1/2 years later.
@@jcherestal I did try cleaning it but I never put it back in the truck. It's just sitting on a shelf in the garage. I will need to keep an eye on the leaking oil situation. I don't drive this vehicle very often though, only about 500 mile a year.
Great video. I would like to add an alternator experience I had recently (2010 Camry). When it’s cold I would hear a loud clicking noise 2-3 minutes after starting car. Mechanic dismissed as lifter issue (normal in older cars). Turns out because I had disconnected the battery a # of times to try to clear some codes and did not tighten enough when reconnecting terminals. Believe it or not … tightened them properly and poof problem gone.
I agree that keeping things stock/OEM makes sense. The problems start when, say for a 4Runner that's modded for overlanding, you add all kinds of lights and gadgets that require far more than the 100 or 130 amps the OEM alternator puts out, especially if you now have an AGM battery (or two) installed. I've heard good things about the DC Power, Inc. unit made specifically for the 4Runner with unique power demands and computer driven sensibilities.
Many thanks for this. Hadn't realised how things had changed. It isn't worth persevering with a failing battery anyway. The hassle of being stranded cant be worth trying to extend a 5 year battery life by a few weeks!!
Thank you for your amazing explanation I have a 2006 toyota 4runner The original alternator lasted 17 years Replace it with oem. And thanks to another of your videos I learned how to change the transmission oil and properly check the level.thank you for your videos. .
If the battery is dead, is it OK to jump start and drive to a shop to replace it, or should I avoid using it until replaced?
Very good question. Yes that is totally fine just don’t keep going for weeks and months on that weak or dead battery. Many may ask but how come. You’d be surprised how some folks life’s are very busy and they can’t attend to the car and they prefer just to jump it and keep going.
@TheCarCareNut I got in my Little Toyota Auris 2013 1.4d a few weeks ago and the battery had died so I got a Jump start and went straight to buy a new one and fitted it myself in there Carpark, made sure I bought a good make Stop/Start Yuasa.
Not bad going 1 battery after 137,000 Miles and I do my own Oil and filter changes every 6000 miles.
Absolutely brilliant Little Car and pulls like at train even uphill.
62Mpg UK 🇬🇧 what's not too like.👍👍👍
@@TheCarCareNut Unfortunately I am not DIY when it comes to cars, except for the battery. If I can do it myself any one can. Driving on the battery that failed you once is a total negligence
You touched on the battery a little and was wondering when would you replace the battery ? Wait until problems ? Or ? Thank you for all the great tips on car care @@TheCarCareNut
@@bobninemire6859a garage can easily test the electrical system and tell you if battery still has enough power in it. I get it done every Fall.
I drive 200-500 miles 6 days a week. My Toyota Camry is my life's blood. This info is priceless. I have found an accessory that saved my a lot of headache in my previous Corolla, almost by accident, I purchased a cigarette lighter plug splitter with a voltage indicator. I needed it to run my cell phone, camera, and other electronics . When my battery light came on, I saw the decrease in voltage to 11.5 volts. I knew to immediately proceed to the nearest auto parts store that provides free alternator and bettery tests. They found that the alternator was on it's last last leg. I limped the car home about 25 miles and replaced it the next day. I also fully charged the battery and saved the battery from a premature death.
By charging your battery you also prevented shortening the life of that new alternator you installed. The information in this video is spot on. Career mechanic here.
Sir pls reply can we use car voltage stabilizer to prolong alternator health or is going to destroy the electricals and alternator prematurely???
@@piyushaggarwal6294 You don't need anything else but a working alternator and a healthy battery. A normal working car doesn't need a voltage stabilizer, as there is one already built into the car, usually the car computer itself which controls and monitors the voltage.
How many miles you got in that car??!!
@@redbaron6805 i been driving on dead altenator for almost a year now and prob another year to go since its winter.... i have solar on roof of my car so there is a workaround if you have a good battery and a solar panel. its not a soution for long... for an old banger its quite adequate.
I am 41 years old, but in my entire life I haven’t meet a better teacher to explain something I can understand something from first lesson. Thanks mate!
I remember being able to buy a rebuild kit for a GM alternator for about $12 and have it up and running again. It basically came with a set of brushes, a diode trio, regulator and a couple of other things.
There’s an old guy in a wheelchair that lives out in the country, near me, and all he does is rebuild alternators. My Camry needed one and the cheapest one from the parts store was nearly $200. He rebuilt mine for $15.
@@waynenoll1967 we had a place near me called teli-ignition. They used to rebuild alternators to about 50 to 100% in greater capacity. I had to do that back in the late '80s early '90s for my car stereo and race car. They would punch additional holes in the casing for additional cooling, higher end windings, etc. $15 is cheap though, he must have enjoyed what he did and wanted to keep busy.
You can still do this but mofos today don't even want to change their own oil.
@@BruceLee-xn3nn today's alternators are much more complex, than the old school, one wire alternators we had back in the day. Yes, at that core they are similar, but they are now more. Computerized. The newer things are, the more complex they are.
@@m3rdpwrthat's why I prefer older vehicles
As an Electrical Engineer by profession since 1988 I can say: your explanation about the alternator working principles and how to take care of it is absolutely comprehensive, precise and correct, albeit easy to understand, I’ve ever seen! Greetings from Brazil!
except the bottom half would not normally be tossed but polarity flipped assuming they would use a full-wave bridge
What does it matter were you're from???
Brazilians have some complex don't they?
Can you please explain how the alternator generates ac current instead of dc current?
@@JM-kn9dh On the drawing he drew of the alternator at 4:20. The rotor is an electromagnet. the electromagnet is powered by the battery(accumulator). when the electromagnet is on(powered by the accumulator) it creates a magnetic field. this field has a north and south side(you can google magnetic field). now if we look from the point of view of one of the stator coils(there is 3 on his drawing lets look from the pov of one of them), when the electromagnet rotates for one half of the circle(180 degrees) it pushes the electrons in that one coil, in one direction and creates a positive bump, and than the other side of the magnet comes and the magnetic field is opposite of the first, so it pushes the electrons in the opposite direction creating the negative bump. this happens at all 3 stator coils at different times because they are positioned 120 degrees apart from each other.
if you want a deeper explanation google this: ac generation - energy education
@@JM-kn9dh this may be helpful in showing how ac is generated ua-cam.com/video/0k2u3zmT5aY/v-deo.html
For a first-time car owner like me, it kinda blew my mind that weak battery can cause bad gas mileage. My car suddenly had horrible gas mileage out of nowhere, and I tried replacing spark plugs, carbon cleaning the engine, change oil etc. and still bad mileage. Now I am 100% sure it is the battery because my alternator does make a small whining noises. Thank you so much for making this video AMD, actually lifesaving!
No it's your alternator
I just watched the video and I did similar things you did. What end it up happening? Did you buy a new battery or replaced your alternator?
@victorgomez6942 I did buy a new battery, and the whining noises are gone at that time. But it was a 12-year-old car at that point, so the alternator might also need a replacement soon enough. I've already sold the car though!
@@ejeruksperes I replaced the alternator brushes and the regular on my '97 4 Runner. I did it as an experiment to see how long it can last. I did it a couple of years and my alternator is still running fine. The output is up to spec. The cost was less than $30.
I wish this channel existed 10 years ago, when I bought my first Toyota.
If only I had known how to properly maintain them, I'm sure They would still all be on the road. Thanks for what you do
As someone who has spent a lifetime working with these basic principles I can vouch that this explanation was absolutely perfect at the depth it was intended for.
And done like a professional!
As a DIYer I appreciated the simple breakdown of the system and advice. 👌🏽👊🏽
@@cj8489 Honestly I did not know that regulation was done at the rotor field. I always thought it was a pass reg post rectifier.
@@InsideOfMyOwnMind same
@@InsideOfMyOwnMind0o0llll0
I’ve been preaching this for years. I tell folks if you forgot something on and ran the battery down and have to jump it off to get home, sure, get home. But when you do get home connect simple small battery charger suitable for the kind of battery your car has overnight. Then take it somewhere you trust and have the battery condition tested. Good information as always sir. God bless you and yours.
If you limp home with car in a low gear (higher than normal RPM) you will keep the alternator cooler. The pulley fan is moving more air, and the ROTOR will need less current to charge. Less rotor current means less internal heat.
I'm an EE and enjoyed your explanation. The diode failure you noted is what happens when the diode shorts. Diodes can also fail by opening. In that type failure you lose one of your 3 phases and the alternator might still work at low load with some RPM but if you load it at idle the output will be low. I think the modern alternator "improvements" aren't so great. When did you ever see a plain old pulley fail? When have you seen an internally regulated Toyota alternator not regulate quickly enough? The efficiency improvements are very small for a large increase in cost. How's 20 years, over 260K miles and still going sound? When my old Corolla alternator fails I'll open it up, check the diodes, bearings, and likely repair it by replacing the brushes.
*Another old EE here: You are spot-on and have the plan. If the rectifier diodes F/B ratios match, they're healthy don't have to mess with them. Cheers!*
The reason why newer alternators have an overruning pulley is not to protect the alternator it's to protect the belt drive. Why ? Well they were not needed for lower output alternators, below 70 Amps or so. But modern cars with ever increasing electrical load, heated rear window, heated seats, heated mirrors etc etc. need an alternator that will output 120, 150 or even 200 Amps. The bigger the alternator the heavier the rotor, and since the engine does not spin at constant speed, it's more of a sine wave due to combustion pulses when the engine slows down slightly the alternator will try to back drive the engine, which will tension the belt in the reverse direction. When combustion occurs the engine will accelerate again and the belt will tension in the drive direction. The constant belt tension changes will very quickly overheat and destroy the tensioner damper, damage the belt tensioner, and possibly even shred the belt.
@@petarmiletic997 With many vehicles over many miles I've never had any problems like that. Some had up to 130A alternators. I think most of this is about the last out to 3 decimal places efficiency and emissions nonsense. I don't think the OEMs have any desire for their cars to last 30 years and a half million miles either. Engine pulses are dampened pretty well by the flywheel and other loads. Of course the more cylinders...
I guess a faulty diode could be tested for using a true RMS AC volt meter to sense excessive ripple?
@@petarmiletic997 Yeah and one of these modern marvels couldn't keep the guy's battery charged because his drive to work was "TOO SHORT". ua-cam.com/video/I_KmO-KaR4A/v-deo.html I'll stick with my old vehicle, at least then i don't have to worry about a short drive being a problem to start it again.
I had my dream car Datsun 280z in the mid 80s, always working on it every weekend.. The alternator would overheat and burn out the diodes. So i ran wires out to the firewall mounted on an aluminum heat sink with HD 50A diodes, FWBR. Problem solved.🎉 Love your work AMD, may our Lord bless you 🙏
Excellent information. After 40 years of doing all my own car repairs, wrenching on equipment, etc it never dawned on me nor did I learn from anyone that when possible always put a charger on battery if it goes dead for some reason vs jump starting and letting alternator do the work. Makes perfect sense. Also the advice to pay up for an OEM replacement can't be emphasized enough. I have known this for decades but recently in a bind to get a car back on road ASAP I bought aftermarket. I'm on 3rd warranty replacement in less than 2 years and warranty or not next time I'll pay $400 for an OEM. Thank You for the great video!
This guy needs to write a book. And write like he's explaining this information. Pure gold. I hope he drops a book.
Or a series of books.
Yes I agree he awesome mechanic
A book with diagrams. It should be printed on a spiral bound book so it can lay flat.
Your explanation about how the alternator works was FANTASTIC and easy to understand!
I am a certified mechanic as well I'm 65 years old! you doing a great job my friend! I have a 2015 Chevy Express I bought brand new got almost 330,000 mi on it and never replaced the alternator always stay dry as in the front and it's away from the radiator
AMD, My Denso alternator is 19 years old and thanks to your tips, I now know how to make it last another 19 years. On the subject of numbers, you have crossed the 900,000 SUBSCRIBER barrier 😁🥳🥳🥳
No alternator will ever last 40 years unless you drive the car 5 miles a week, and even then it is doubtful as corrosion will kill it.
@@redbaron6805 Thanks for the tip. I will report back to you when mine gives up the ghost.
@@rightlanehog3151 OK 👍Hopefully it will last you a few more years...
@@redbaron6805I have one that is 34 years old. No problem, no corrosion so far. 😂 Matsushita Industrial.
As an old mechanic, I always recommend that when people buy a new car, take it home and put the battery on a Smart Charger overnight. They are ALWAYS only about half charged, which puts stress on your alternator. Your Battery will thank you for it.
Thank you, Old Mechanic.
From Mr.Battery.
good idea, i'm a car tint installer and wonder why new car didnt crank when after like 20 min keeping the car on for acc like window and radio due to work, thanks for the info
Thank you for all your great videos🙏
A older and wise mechanic told me 30 years ago:
To keep alternator and electronics healthy=>replace battery every 4 years regardless.
To keep engine healthy=>replace radiator and thermostat every 8 years regardless...and new OEM oil filter@EVERY oil change...
So far it has worked for me...
THIS WAS BY FAR ONE OF THE COOLEST AND MOST HELPFUL VIDEOS I'VE SEEN ON UA-cam! 👏🏻 You are a FANTASTIC instructor! 👏🏻
Educational for people that are ignorant to car maintenance and have no common sense. I have always replaced parts from a junk yard rather than from an Auto Zone type store. NAPA is probably the best replacement parts store of them all.
Awesome timing my wife's alternator died yesterday. We were lucky to make it home... It died 20 feet from my driveway lol. Will receive my replacement on Monday. Thank you for the amazing chanel. Happy holidays
You ordered an OEM replacement - I hope!
17:21
So getting to this point, it seems to me the best thing is to keep the receipt for the battery (photo copy it so it doesn't fade like on the thermal paper receipts are printed on!) if the battery dies and it's within the warranty period, pull it and get it replaced! If it's out of warranty, buy a new one (agm)!
The only alternator problems on Toyotas was about 30 years ago on the mid 1990's Corollas that came with Delphi Alternators instead of Denso ones. Denso alternators are usually good for at least 100K miles. I shake my head whenever I see other techs or service advisers at my dealership selling non-Denso after-market alternators that are usually only good for a couple years just because it's too late to will-call the part and don't wanna carry over the job to the next day.
280k miles on my 2012 Sienna alternator.
227 k on the alternator , put a Denso on it maybe another 227 k
I had a 2000 Honda Accord V6 with a Delphi alternator. It failed at less than 100k. My Lexus LX 470 has 218K. Original alternator still going strong.
My original alternator on my '97 4 Runner lasted to about 270k miles.
My 34 year old Lincoln mark vii with ton of miles and factory alternator didn't go out until last year. Hell it's still got 7 of the original spark plug wires and it sees 500 miles a week of daily driving
I'm not an engineer, only took some physics in high-school. At 6:30 instead of cutting off a half of the waveform wouldn't they use a bridge rectifier to invert it, so not to lose 50% of power? On the other hand at first I thought why don't they use a permanent magnet in the rotor. I never knew that's how they regulate an alternator output, that's brilliant!
The no nonsense info we all need to keep our cars running as long as possible. Thanks CCN! Very much appreciated in these tough times with high used and new car prices! 🙏🙏
You are responsible , all of you letting bad politicians...
In todays NWO world we need to take care of our ICE cars before they will ban them indefinitely
Great illustration and description on the operation of the alternator. I was an electronics instructor for 3 out of 10 years in the Navy and half of the instructors did not explain generation and rectification of voltage as quickly and clearer as you did here.
Been wandering this planet for sixty years and I was today years old to learn that an Alternator generates Alternating Current (AC) and with the function of Diodes converts those angry pixies into Direct Current (DC). I knew alternators had diodes, just never understood what exactly their function was or what they did. MIND BLOWN! Thank you for the lesson!
My 2005 Camry LE that I bought new was an engineering marvel. The alternator was original...among other parts...that lasted 218,000 miles until I sold it in 2020. Then I bought a new Camry. You "get a lot of car with Toyota."
That was mostly true before not anymore. Turbocharged engines and 2grade assembly quality of the entire vehicles is the norm nowadays. Transmissions are not as well made either that said there are still a few old ones available and still new so buy or regret later.
Good advice. Always used a battery keeper here in Northern Ontario. My Camery battery was healthy for 7 years. The alternator was a wonderful innovation; my first cars had generators...yes old geezer here. Your explanation of how an alternator was a treat in simplicity...said from a retired physics-type guy. Cheers.
You thnk owning one you'd have learned it's a Camry, not a Camery. Mind you, I know someone that thought they owned a Carolla for 10 years.
The CCN is a,"treat" indeed - 100% Geezer2Geezer *APPROVED*
Yea Physics type guy, those energy infrastructure equations for EV's might seem a bit sus, LOL.
Do you remember adjusting the regulating relay coil spring tension used with 12V Alternator Systems? How about those _much older_ DC Generators, 6V Batteries and using a glass Hygrometer as the tool of choice for fine-tuning the 6V battery charging voltage?
Almost a century later (2024) we have UA-cam, Cellphones, GPS, digital scan/diagnostic/programming tools, the amazing $20 component identifier, High Bandwidth 4-channel Digital Oscilloscopes, inexpensive borescope cameras, DVMs, and SDR, VNA and Tiny SA tools for the RF spectrum.
Unfortunately we've also been, "gifted" with those 2450 battery-sucking, proximity-activated-transponder smart key RF remotes (Ford and Toyota) that have made modern car theft a quick and easy, contactless sport.
Amazing progress; now machine-learning algorithms, AI and sooner or later, safer-than-human self-driving cars. There's a profit-driven dark side though; remote industrial-scale killing using (proxy) AI drone warfare in other countries! (wasn't in the glossy advertisement brochure?)
Too bad these young whippersnappers don't yet realize it's the Creature From Jeckyll Island and totalitarianism sneaking up from behind on a secret multi-vectored attack mission to destroy absolutely everything for the propagandized, great unwashed... (Now that's progress!)
Good luck everybody, take care of you and yours!
@@TonyRule Yes, pretty ditsy (dittsy?) of me, I thuk. Didn't learn to type until I was 40. But at 14, I could do 12 words per minute in Morse Code...a handy skill.
I am an electrical engineer. In automobile I am a DIY. I have never brought my vehicles to a mechanic except for a tire replacement. The three phases you wrote should have 120 degree phase differences. The circuit needs three diodes to regulate the ac voltages to dc. The circuit needs a capacitor as a final dc filter, and that capacitor is the battery.
Great video by AMD! Here is another thing that may prolong the life of an alternator. Before parking and shutting off the engine, turn off the headlights (if it's nighttime), lower the climate control blower motor speed, or turn off the blower motor altogether. This gives the alternator a little bit of time to not be under load and to cool down before shutting off the engine. Again, this may prolong the life of the internals of the alternator.
@randyrankin589 What you suggest is utter nonsense. An alternator is not like a turbocharger with hot exhaust gases passing through it and depends on oil flow to cool and lubricate the bearings. An alternator uses sealed bearings and electrical components whose temperature will not increase after shutdown.
Wow, that was one of the best balanced videos I've seen. Right level of tech depth to educate anyone about how an alternator works and how to prolong it's life. Thank you for making this video. Genuinely very helpful.
Very good simple explanation but that covered “early” alternators because modern alternators contain 6-9 diodes to not be wasteful because when you just cut off the negative wave entirely you lose it so the efficiency early on was 50%. Adding 3 more diodes on the negative side of the ac facing away from ground forces the waves to turn around and then the bottom wave band is not lost.
You are a teacher...!! Thank you for the explanation. As a DIY and a retired carpenter with a pretty high skill set you continue to make me smarter. I tell people if its 5yrs old, don't even clean the terminals. Just buy a new one. Yes, keep your terminals clean...
Great explanation!
My alternator was failing - at the time, it sounded like a drill with that whining sound. It was my first time hearing it, and I was glad I had it fixed before anything major happened!
This is the most informative lesson I've ever learned over my whole career as an auto mechanic. God, where have you been all my life. Mechanics and DIYers are totally blessed with your advises that virtually pertains to any vehicle. I'm too old now but still work on vehicle's and never had formal technical education in this field but was able to be ASE certified. It's a good thing I was also a carpenter, electrician and plumber which help me a lot in my family business trade as a part time mechanic. I wish you were around 50 yrs ago, thank you so much. Subscribers also benefit from your teachings, I pray your subscribers exceeds many more millions.
Thank you for another lesson.I always learn with your videos. Not too long or too short , but just enough and no EGO or attitude.
I can't express how happy I am to see your channel getting so close to its first million. As a fellow Auto Technician and brother in Christ, I highly appreciate every single second of all your videos. Thank you for setting a standard on what Automotive Service should be.
Oooh yuck. Religious stuff. Oh well, not hurting me.
Great info! Just had my alternator replaced on my 2011 Avalon at 158,000. Know I know how the alternator works. Thanks Professor Car Care Nut!
Probably should have had my 06 Camrys alternator replaced around then. But incidentally it was on the drive I crossed 186000 (after I began going down a steep highway ramp) was when it showed that battery light and made clear something was wrong. Hopefully many years from now I'll say how long the remanufactured alternator (only one in stock) from o'reilly lasted if I hold on to the Camry
@@davidglad More than likely the brushes are getting worn out. You can order a brush set/holder (it's all once piece) for like $20 or less and replace it yourself. Remove the three screws on the alternator end cover, remove the two small screws on the brush holder, install the new brush holder, pull the brush holding pin (it holds the spring-loaded brushes in place until installation), reinstall the cover, and Bam! you saved yourself $$$! Rockauto & OEM Toyota parts sites have it. Good luck!
The original alternator on my 2011 Camry V6 is still working fine at 274,000 miles.... knock on wood...I should probably get ready to install those replacement brushes I bought for it...
Brilliant lesson as usual from this guy. I now also realized 'watch what liquid leaks' on exposed wirings of alternator in future. That water blasting / cleaning of engine bay needs to make sure ALL electrical wirings are covered up before cleaning, including 'degreasing'. Also that 'poor milage can also be linked to poor battery condition '. Even the 'wrong battery type/ CCA' can affect alternator demise.
I remember driving a friends corolla in outback Australia and the alternator light came up. It was 3 hours between towns and we were half way. After a few checks we drove onto the next town with the AC off. A local garage rebulit it as we waited with genuine denso parts. (The brushes had worn down and they replaced bearings and the regulator) These days we would have to wait 2 or 3 days and possibly have some aftermarket junk fitted for a way bigger bill.
I wish I found this channel while I was still in school. Physics class would have been much easier! 😊
Maybe next time you could touch on user-replaceable alternator components, mainly bearings and brush packs. Decades ago I used to swap in new brushes in GM starters, rather than buy a rebuilt starter; it was obviously far less costly, but even when time is important, the existing unit (starter, alternator) is OEM and superior in quality and condition to whatever rebuilt unit you could purchase. When you return the old unit to get your 'core fee', you are giving up a far better component than what they sold you. With new brushes and freshly lubed bearings, your old unit would outlast and outperform a rebuilt.
Now is definitely NOT the time to be buying a car. Average car cost $47K?! That's insane!
Check your ego at the door - you need a vehicle to get back and forth to work, not to impress anyone. An auto finance rate of 7%+ is an insult to anyone with excellent credit. No thanks. Those new cars can sit on the lot and rot away for all I care.
I'm with you. I don't care how much it costs to keep my current cars running.
I'll drop new engines and trans if necessary I refuse to buy a new car.
Yeah, Im glad I keep seeing this message because I want a new car, but man these prices are crazy
The best course of action is to ask a consultant or investing coach for guidance or assistance on purchasing a car.
Speaking with a consultant helped me acquire my car effortlessly using the best plan available without affecting my portfolio.
He appears to be well-educated and well-read. I ran a Google search on his name and came across his website;
thank you for sharing...
Agreed. I bought a 2016 Tundra for 32k it has 25k miles on it. Decided to go that route instead of spending 80k for a 2023 Tundra.
WOW what an awesome informative video. I found this channel when I was doing search on buying a used Highlander. This guy saved my money after buying my Highlander and doing all the maintenance on 2GR-FE. Hope you will hit your 1M soon. You deserve it! Keep up the good work Sir, you're truly a life saver!!
Every time I'm under the hood of my cars I see the dust coating the windings of the alternator, and I want to clean them. You mentioned taking an alternator apart to clean it properly. I'd really appreciate a video on how to do that. Thanks for all your work!
I had to replace the battery in my 2013 Highlander, it was done at Sears, they also replaced the battery terminal clamps. New battery worked well, for about 2 days, then I started having problems, basically when I went to start the vehicle it was dead slow cranking then it’ll start. Long story short I took it to my Toyota dealership & they discovered that the new battery terminal clamps were Not the correct metal type. Yes the type of material affected the battery connection. Once changed, I never had a problem with my battery up until I sold her at 237K miles. Proof newer cars are more technically advanced & the correct knowledge needs to be know to service them. Excellent video. 👍🏾
Thank you so much. You're videos are very informative and fun. I am posting here because this topic (alternators) is kinda interesting to me.
In 1995 I bought a used Toyota T100 SR5 (4000k miles). I still own it 29 years later. It has 160k miles and has been used for a variety of purposes over the years. It still has the original alternator on it and it has NEVER given me one bit of a problem over that period. The same is true of the A/C system. In fact, virtually its all original and all functioning like the day the truck was new! The running gear is original and in great condition. I do the maintenance regularly. These things seem bullet proof.....
I am now 80 years old and this truck will out live me of course and serve someone else well if properly maintained. It is a California vehicle so rust is not an issue. Honestly, it's truly amazing......
You explained it better than trade school ❤ excellent video, simple but detailed technical explanations.
My new favorite UA-cam Car Channel.
I now take better care of my Turbo (let it cool down in park for about 30 seconds or so after reaching my destination after driving on the Highway/Interstate), and my Auto Tranny (when on an incline, put the car into Neutral, pop the E-Brake, and then put it into Park, as opposed to popping the E-Brake while still in Drive, then putting it into Park).
Thanks man!!! Keep up the amazing work!!!
Please keep making these videos for us, we love you!!!!
Great Video! Totally concur as far as replacing the Alt with original Parts.
2 yrs ago the Alt on my ‘07 Vette packed it in. Tried 2 Aftermarket one, both showed they weren’t compatible ,In the end I went to a General Mayhem Part @ about 3x the cost of the Parts-store one, but it worked and still works flawless!
Truely one of the best videos I have watched on UA-cam. Thank you.
I've been watching this channel for a couple of years now. It's one of the reasons I bought the car I did, a Venza (hybrid). It doesn't have an alternator (no starter either), but I'll still watch the video to support the channel. :)
Great choice, venzas are very nice, simply put, it's a lexus, with the L badge.
Great tutorial! Idea for another topic would be the proper way to read your gauges. I installed Voltmeter and Oil Temperature gauges in my car to keep up with its health. It already has Oil Pressure and Water Temperature gauges. A CCN tutorial on these would be much appreciated!
Excellent description and explanation of how an alternator works. In a Porsche 911 you get ridiculous quotes from Porsche dealers to replace an alternator when it could easily be the regulator. Who supplies the alternators ata reasonable price which is a Bosch alternator in the 911.
Great video! This is something most mechanics never cover or talk about. Your explanation on how it works was brilliant, bravo! AMD, you’re a gem! Even the info about leaks and cleaning was right to the point! Thanks!!!
Bought a 92 Lumina from my sister cheap because she was replacing alternators once a year. Very expensive. First thing I noticed was that the alternator wined when using the electric rear defroster. I stopped using the defroster immediately and drove the car many years with no more alternator issues. Since then I have limited rear defroster use in all my cars
Thanks for this! Like many home mechanics i never thought much of letting the car charge a flat battery.
Many times i've been told it won't get a perfect full charge this way, but no one ever said it's hard on the alternator
A million subscribers can't be wrong. Man, I wish you were my auto shop teacher in 1968. Your method of teaching is very easy to watch. I don't have any alternator problems at this moment, but I...couldn't...stop...watching!!!!!!! Ha ha ha!!!!
This is one of the best educational videos I've ever seen on UA-cam. Thank you for this information and excellent explanation!
I have been watching your videos lately and honestly I find your personality awesome. Love how you explain the way things are in your view. Wish you had a shop out here in NC instead, I would always take my Tundra to your auto shop then.
Definitely appreciate the information on how the alternator works and thank you for the advice on how to tell if it's about to quit...
These days you really don't want to be stranded.
Seeing this video in my feed, and it being such an informative one at that, can mean only one thing. My alternator is about to die, and I'm gonna have to fix it myself!
Now I feel equipped to do it! Thanks for a great video! Regards from Denmark!
Excellent video. Had a problem with my Ranger recently. After 2 1/2 hours stuck in hot traffic jam, I stopped at a rest station on I75. No lights on dash or any other signs of a problem. Went to start the truck 10 minutes later - lights on dashboard, but no cranking. Battery was dead, well indicated 2 V on my meter. AAA was called but did not come. Managed to get a boost and drove to get a new battery. It was obvious that the alternator was working hard, but it made it. Put a new battery in the next morning (AAA called at 502 am to ask if I still needed help, fourteen hours later). The truck has been fine ever since. I'm going to get the charging system checked, but your explanation of the role of the battery vs the alternator explained things and makes sense. I have done about 2000 kms since the mishap, so I hope the alternator is ok, but I don't want it to happen again (I was on a trip from Canada to Florida and then back to Canada).
How old was your battery? I have found any time they're more than four years they can't be trusted - even if they test ok.
I love explanations like this because it makes troubleshooting so much easier because you understand the process and how it works.
Voltage erratic? Well…diode or rectifier issue.
Very informative. Over the years of small repairs on friends and family vehicles I noticed the pattern of alternators and batteries killing each other. Although I couldn’t quite figure out which was the cause. This makes much sense and confirms to me that there was connection. Thanks!
I found that my 20 year old Toyota Starter was killing the battery gradually, with every start.
(Battery and Alternator are fine.) After 2nd battery replacement within 30 months, I noticed the slightly slower cranking and measured an excessive post-to-post battery voltage dip.
Isolated, a battery load test looks fine. Changed the starter and now that same battery is still working, years later. That was a first for me after several decades, incl 45 years DIY Toyota.
Here in the Philippines, we got a LOT of Skilled Auto Electrician who repair ANY kind of Auto Alternators, so if you have the Original from your car, all you need is a rebuild and use it forever! I've done it for my last car '81 Toyota Alternator (Voltage Regulator Type) and current one ' 91 Isuzu Alternator (IC Type), saves LOT of bucks!
Fantastic presentation! High current is always hard on electronics and it never occured to me that running the vehicle to bring a low battery up would place concerning wear on the alternator even though I know and have measured 7 amps or more in that senario. Now i know how to baby my 2002 Tacoma with 265,000 miles just a little bit better.
Look at ur ground I guarantee that you only have one from the negative post straight to the chassis instead of 2
I was once going through a flooded área in my Corolla 04' and the battery light lit up for a few secs. I am glad I was not left stranded then, but the alternator survived and never gave me a problem later. Toyotas are wel made indeed
Good morning teacher I’m very excited and very proud to see you today and I thank god to have a opportunity and understand a little bit about the mechanics and thanks again maestro for keeping us teaching and sharing and helping to your students and all your viewers because I’m pretty sure I myself I’m your student why because I learned from you and your work and your knowledge and your passion and your honesty patient and please keep it teaching us and stay positive and keep safe and healthy and god blessed
That is a real mechanic with good technical knowledge of AC/DC voltaje
Thanks for the great lecture. When I hear the whining sounds, I thought it was the idler or tensioner pulley going bad. But it turn out not to be the case, though I reconditioned both easily. But the whining sound stayed, and increasingly frequently, the battery/alternator light comes on, until last week it stays on, and I get only 11.7v at driving. So I let it sit in the driveway since then. Now I understand what to do next. Thank you!
I have owned my 1984 Toyota pickup forever. Now at 253K miles. The alternator has quit working two times in those 39 years. Both times it was the brushes worn out. I just replaced those -- back in business. One brush replacement happened in a rural area and all I could find were generic hardware store brushes. Had to file down the carbon to fit brush holders and rejigger the copper pigtails -- back in business. Amazing that the bearings are still working. I should replace those before the rotar starts rubbing on the stator parts.
My elderly neighbour had a flat battery from leaving the trunk slightly open. I charged it 3 times on my Victron multi stage charger and the little green light came back on. Took it back to her and re-installed it properly - all good. I was tempted to jump start it but time wasn't an issue so probably did everything right inadvertently. I later bought the car from her. It's a terrific 2000 Corolla.
These educational videos are just the best. Thank you!!
Learn something every time I tune in, great channel!
Just to share, the Toyota Fortuner (2016 model and up) alternator bearing gets bad prematurely due to excessive vibration caused by the engine and worn out drive belt. It's a common concern among Toyota Fortuner here in the Philippines. Thank you Mr. Care Care Nuts for your valuable advices. I've been following your channel for more than 2 years now. Cheers!
I had a remanufactured power steering pump leak power steering fluid on my alternator and it eventually killed my alternator. I regret not taking care of that power steering pump when I first found out it was leaking. Lesson learned.
Thank you Prof. I can see this becoming a series about different main components in a vehicle.
I've been working on cars for over 50 years. Excellent review.
Thanks A. Some useful info. One thing I think you should have added is that you CAN repair those alternators, especially some Toyota densos. What is the most common cause of an alternator failing? Worn brushes. Many Toyota Densos have brushes that are easily replaced and some are difficult. Brushes are cheap. Find out if you have easily replaceable brushes. If you do check them and replace them if worn down. Other causes such as worn bearings are uncommon IMO.
For the cars I'd own for the last 10 years, i'd always add a ground cable/strap/10ga wire from the negative battery terminal to the base or casing of the alternator since most present cars only have a less than 3 grounding points kn the engine, body & AT.
Squaring the grounding circuit helped alot from busted bulbs, dimming headlights & of course charging.
By far my favorite UA-camr. Thank you for doing these videos. We learn so much from you!
👏👏
I really like this style of video! I learned a bit about what an alternator is and I now know how to maintain it. I feel like I’m taking a college course on Toyotas. Toyota 101! Keep up the great work!
Your lectures are pure gold! So clearly explained, every subject. If someone still doesn't get it after this, they deserve to be stranded 😂
@TheCarCareNut if I ever get rich, the very first thing I will buy, is your services, no matter the price.
After 35+ years of dealing with cars and mechanics, you make me want to take a loan, pack up my car into a container and ship it from Europe to your workshop.
Thank you for your videos, man, and may God keep you healthy.
I learned more from you, than I did from 8 years of electrical school.
This is the best graphic I have ever seen for diagnosing a blown diode. More importantly teaching the same thing. Easy to see the curve, without loving the math.
As a person that frequently teaches "normal people" 3 phase power, the reticfication down to DC 24v control power, or "computer power".
Thank you for sharing this.
I'd also recommend performing the Big 3 (or Big 4) which is upgrading the small gauge power/ground wire (that goes to the battery) with 100% OFC 0 gauge wiring.
Usually don't need it
@@DylanL69 Tell that to my amplifiers as just one of them does 5,000 watts RMS @ 1 ohm.
I absolutely agree. Moving an object when it is stationary takes a lot of energy. So that’s why I have difficultly getting off the couch!
Thank you so much for these videos. Having you explain these common parts and how they work, plus how to take care of them, are my favorite videos of yours. Thanks again!!
Thank you for making your informative videos on car repairs. I just changed my alternator on my car since it began lightning up on my dash.
Great informative video! It took me several weeks to discover the oil-soaked alternator of my 94 Toyota Pickup was causing the engine to cut out shortly after it started. The $100 Chinese alternator I bought from Amazon is still working 1 1/2 years later.
Nice 😊!
What did you do? Can you clean it with brake cleaner?
@@jcherestal I did try cleaning it but I never put it back in the truck. It's just sitting on a shelf in the garage. I will need to keep an eye on the leaking oil situation. I don't drive this vehicle very often though, only about 500 mile a year.
Even as tech this basic is informative thanks from Alberta Canada
Thank you CCN for giving the informative video to keep our car safe and running.
Great video. I would like to add an alternator experience I had recently (2010 Camry). When it’s cold I would hear a loud clicking noise 2-3 minutes after starting car. Mechanic dismissed as lifter issue (normal in older cars). Turns out because I had disconnected the battery a # of times to try to clear some codes and did not tighten enough when reconnecting terminals. Believe it or not … tightened them properly and poof problem gone.
To expand on where the noise was coming from? The alternator. Yep😂
I agree that keeping things stock/OEM makes sense. The problems start when, say for a 4Runner that's modded for overlanding, you add all kinds of lights and gadgets that require far more than the 100 or 130 amps the OEM alternator puts out, especially if you now have an AGM battery (or two) installed. I've heard good things about the DC Power, Inc. unit made specifically for the 4Runner with unique power demands and computer driven sensibilities.
Put a capacitor inline you should be golden, i had 250000 miles on my jeep never changed it
Many thanks for this. Hadn't realised how things had changed. It isn't worth persevering with a failing battery anyway. The hassle of being stranded cant be worth trying to extend a 5 year battery life by a few weeks!!
I should mention that the filming setup, sound and video in your videos pretty good and seems to improve. pleasure to listen and watch
👍👍👍👍👍 WOW, this unexpectedly was the BEST & most useful video about car maintenance that I've ever seen. You hit it with this one, Otani.
Thank you for your amazing explanation I have a 2006 toyota 4runner The original alternator lasted 17 years Replace it with oem. And thanks to another of your videos I learned how to change the transmission oil and properly check the level.thank you for your videos.
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Another great review. You make understanding the various parts of the vehicle so easy. I really like your pictures with callout and drawings.