How To Install a Line Output Converter (LOC) To Any Car (Simple) - Aftermarket Sub To Factory Radio
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- Опубліковано 22 лис 2017
- Here is my detailed breakdown on how to install a line output converter into a car with a factory radio. This installation is done in my 2017 honda civic hatchback. You can follow this guide if you are installing the line output converter to the rear speakers or to the car's wiring harness.
Make sure to splice the wires like shown and match the cables from the LOC to your specific car. I prefer the method of installing on the wiring harness because you don't need to run the cables anywhere else, making it an easier installation.
Line Output Converter
LOC Without Remote Line:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
LOC With Remote Line: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
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Paying $300-$500 for subwoofer installations, when it’s been this easy to do the whole entire time, thanks bro you saved people a lot off money 👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽
The sub wont hit like its supposed to like an aftermarket radio will
Braga Box how so?
@Rivxrv then wtf you doing on a line converison video you wont need it if change headunit
@@SkyJUSTIN6 locs are passive and barely push any power thru to the amp. Lc2i is the way to go I've heard.
@@bnoone2292 Aftermarket head unit is the way to go. Locs are not good option except when you are putting a system together, building piece by piece, and you throw a loc in there until you get that head unit.
THANK YOU!!! everyone else on yt made it look so hard but you made it look easy
Now iknow what exactly the process,thanks to very detailed and step by step installation....your the man
I've watched about 10 videos on the LOC installation and your video is the first to help me fully grasp it. Thanks man 😁
same lol i wouldnt cut the harness wires tho noway
Hey man...nice job spelling out the LOC install, ive never even heard of one untill yesterday. You took your time and explained it well.
Good job
I saw a few other video and I got more confused but after seen your video this is easy
Thank you for the video. After watching many of them your is on top of the list. So clear and professional. Thanks again.
The adhesive on the tape will heat up overtime... the adhesive will also collect dust that will become conductive and not always but likely cause a short. Also, if that is the way you prefer to splice the wires then wire nuts will save you a little work.
Good detailed video, people needa learn how to explain stuff like this more..
Been looking for a video like this. Great Jon man,Thanks for the content !
Excellent step by step tutorial thank you
Good work dude I know my way around wires only thing is cutting into the harness I have bad points but for another then that great video and thanks
Great video, we will be at SEMA Thank you for the content
First video to finally get me to understand how to do properly
I am going to try this. Dude thank you so much for simplifying it for me
Best video on UA-cam about this thank you so much
Only video that helped after watching hundreds thank you
Bro this video just saved me a headache cause I had someone come install my speakers and they tried to run it from my rear stock sub and it doesn't play sound so I'm glad i seen this now I can get them working
I tapped into my rear factory sub & it worked fine. Matter of fact it had additional +- terminals for that purpose which came very useful during the process 😊
So thankful for this video🤣 been struggling setting this shit up
Showing luv! I subbed!
Fantastic Man Just picked up a converter same LOC as you and mines going into my 2018 LX haha I subbed and clicked the bell
Hey I'm curious I ordered the same LOC. Do I have to use the turn on wire attached to the LOC? I was planning on running a separate wire from the fuse box directly to the amp
Thanks soo much bro, I’m very grateful to have found u … u are awesome
Him: Full walk through*
Also Him: I already did it*
😂
Awesome channel, keep it up!
Great explanation on your video I really needed this to install one on my 2020 kia forte GT line ⚡️⚡️⚡️🙏🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Audio guy said depending on the vehicle installation would be $650 and up. Uhhh.... so you’ve never heard of this thing called UA-cam? Such BS. Thanks man
Nice video. Good job
Thanks for the video. So I will only need to splice them with the rear speakers wire.
Thank you for this tutorial. I had installed my Chinese cheapo converter correctly, except for the black wire, assuming it was a GND. You referred it to be connected to a 12v remote. I corrected that and now my system works great!
Now that you say this. I tryed one of these a couple years back. Fried my cars stock amp behind the dash. I believe i grounded the black wire and thats probably what killed it
So was it not a ground wire ?
@@esiasonrodriguez1800
It depends on your converter. 1:40 should explain this part clearly. If not ask again and I'll try to help you.
THANKS SO MUCH!!! THIS VIDEO HELPED ME SOOOOO MUCH!!!!
the best channel ever
this really helped me out , thanks man
Great Vid my man !!! Best on here at explaining exactly what each wire does. Keep it up !!! 🙏🏾👍
Thank you sir. Great vid.
This is probably the best explained video on UA-cam about loc installations 👍
I personally would fine tune the level knobs while hearing whatever speakers/sub(s) are connected to your amp at 50-75% head unit volume. Without doing this you might be cheating your amp out of full capability(too low) or allowing possible distortion into your sound(too high).
Thank you. I think that was the answer i was looking for. I was clicking this video to see if he would explain about the level knob, because I just installed a sub in my truck and I turned the gain up on the amp and just felt like as if the amp wasn't pushing like It should, like it was lacking to push out the bass on the sub and I don't have the same LOC but mine also has the level knob and wanted to see what it would do if it was adjusted. Thanks man.
Great vid. I'm with you up to the adjustment of the levels. I always tweak mine to distortion, then back them off a hair. Of course there's more to it, but that's the idea. Thank you and subd
Great video
Great video great explanation
Brilliant!
Thanks man... I called Crutchfield for this and the guy tried to sell me a 99.00 converter.... Great video ...
Faxx
So this works the same as their converter?
Most are made in China. Same same....
Good Explanation
Well explained for the most part. If I had anything objective to add it would be that over time electrical tape does deteriorate.
Nice video!!!
I’m slow but I got it because you took your time explaining everything amazing job
Omg thank you dude. Bin trying to figure this out for weeks.
A
Does this work for 2018 honda civic ex sedan 2.0
@@curtisperkins635 Anything that has front left/right or rear left/right speakers. Anything.
Good tip~!
10/10 video.
I am wondering how you run the RCA cables from the stereo to the left side. I think you removed the plastic panel under the steering wheel, right? Could you please show me how you do that? I am working on my project of installing an amplifier under the passenger seat. It is so challenging! I hope you can share some experience with me. Thanks!
Rca cables are left and right , red and white not positive and negative , also you can use one speaker negative to negative and positive to positive for both channels just a heads up.
Thank u for your help 👍🏾
Nice vid. I sub
Thank you such good information
Nice!
very helpful thank you
Thanks man!
Thanks a lot bro
🙏🏻 brother u did a great favor
Its been a month since i am searching how to connect this LOC but nobody shows the process of connecting it
Also if u can make a video how to connect it with the rear speakers that would be great cause most of the beginners like me don't want to touch the head unit cause its very difficult and frustrating to unclip the clumps 😅
But ty anyways 👍🏻
I did mine different. I have a suv I got some 20 gauge speaker wire and extended the wires and tapped into the rear door speakers. And for power I just twisted the power wire around the power wire for the amp. Same with the ground. I found that way to be way easier than ripping out the factory radio
i can connect the extra speaker wire to the yellow wire?
@@cleanleaksv2 The yellow wire is your 12v power. U connect that to your power wire on your amp
@@mattgehrke ight what do i have to connect to the speakers? the pos neg lines?
@@cleanleaksv2 Yes. U need to pull up a diagram on your vehicle to determine which speaker wires are positive and negative.
@@cleanleaksv2 To be truthfully honest man. These line output converters aren't the best it's just a cheap option if u don't have the money for a decent head unit. I eventually took mine out and put in a pioneer head unit with 4v preouts. And it was a night and day difference
4:32 This works but if you have access to wire taps it’s better than cutting the connections. That way you don’t risk cutting too much or making it difficult to reconnect later. Great video though…especially part 1 with the wire diagram.
Indeed. Take note of the gauge being significantly different though when picking a tap to use; 22 gauge from the harness, 16 from the LOC. my taps weren’t small enough
The sub to your channel 😊
great video, I had to put it at 1.75x speed cause I like listening fast 😎
First of all remove negative post from the battery to prevent a possible short circuit. Also, use a wire stripper instead of cutting the wires, easier use and faster. Still a great great video.
I installed this model Cerwin-Vega SLMLOCT2 and taped into my main harness with taps. I get serious noise while driving and the sub is barely moving. I swapped my single aftermarket deck for oem radio and had no issues. Any idea what is wrong?
7:22 yes the LOCs should be adjusted based on the output voltage of the head unit as these could feed too many v's to your amp thus making it redundant/impossible to turn up the gains on your actual amp.
So how exactly would you tune the left and right knobs on the LOC? I need help with that..
Probably too late of a response.
I was able to put two amps in my car; one for the highs and one for the sub. I had the LC2i by audio control. Excellent converter. Also, it’s an active converter so it gets nice clean full-power signal because it’s connected with a 12v connection. The LC2i has 2 sets of outputs. One for the low (sub) and one for the highs. Only issue is that you won’t have fade capability.
Will it make any difference if I only connect the LOC to the front speakers only, as far as sound quality? Or should I connect front and rear?
The "Kicker" brand line output converter is worth every penny as it doesn't have a power wire. It gets the power from the speaker wire connection. Nor does it have a "Gain" knob, adjusting automatically to your system. It also offers one of "the best" low noise/distortion signals to your amp. Seen it tested.
That's what I have but I'm getting alot of noise from the engine, if I open any door it stops, if I shut the engine off it stops top. I'm getting frustrated lol I've grounded it, I've grounded the amp with the big 3, maybe ground to the head unit too?
Nice video! I’ve searched everywhere but I can’t find the wiring harnesses diagram for my car anywhere !! I have a 2018 chrysler 300 s any help?
Hi, thanks for the video, I have a quick question. When you splice into the rear speakers, do you still have functioning rear speakers or not. So if subwoofer is connected to amp, will that mean you completely eliminate the rears, or do you actually just splice into the existing wires and leave them functioning as well?
Thanks
You rear speakers will still function
@@deeshaw3451 so what? Just run both wires from loc to rear speakers and ground and blue remote wire to amp? Im trying to keep the system stock
@@jayy.cls6 yep
@@jayy.cls6 think of the loc as a remote turn on. It doesn’t actually control the rear speakers. It just needs to be connected to them to activate the LOc
I doing it the same way you all.My will sit next to the amp and wire the +12v and ground to the ones going to the amp and the remote wire directly to the rem terminal on my amp and just run speaker wire from the loc to the rear speakers.Thats it,it's easy and I'm running an aftermarket stereo so I'm using the loc as a wire saver and convenience.
Wire saver? Lol
Good vid. I'll do that! Thanks 👍
I dont have nonsound
I have a 2 din radio bit it dont have no jacks on back so i got rhis but no soind want come iut
@@tracywagoner7613
Did u tap into ur front or rear speakers? I did my rears. Made sure i had a clean ground connection, proper possitive power to my fuse box. Remolt wire (blue) connected, and RCA cables. U should be ok
@@natedogg2282 no i did not know i had to tap into the speakers till today lol thanks bud that helps me big time
@@tracywagoner7613
Ok lol.. Yupp. Its a must. Have fun :)
At the factory harness where you connect the LOC, what do you do with the other end of the speaker wires? My car came with a after-market unit with RCA which I just swapped it back with a factory unit which does not have RCA.
Thank you just gave me some balls to snip my oem wire i have same loc
My rear speakers stopped working after I did this, I dont understand though bc all of the connections are the same just spliced to the converter. Any solutions?
Thanks man
so I have a 2012 Toyota Camry SE V6 it has 6x9s in the rear deck so I can wire this to the rear speakers then? which would be much easier than messing with the stock wire harness behind the head unit! I have the Navigation system with NON JBL
thats cool
So with the blue/white cable, once you spliced it to the other cable and ran it to the amp, is that the 12v power cable your showed earlier in the video? And that runs to the amp?
Hi thanks for the video. I been struggling to find help.
I wonder if I could trouble you further.
My power, ground and remote cable are all connected separate from my converter. I only need the converter to plug my input leads into.
The converter I have is literally 2 female input ports at one end and the other end a single +speaker cable and a -.
I noticed on yours you spliced into 2 speakers or 4 wires.
As I only have 2 wires will mine still work splicing into 1 speaker. It's a single channel powered sub.
Sorry for the novel but when you find someone who knows, in a sea of people who don't, you have to squeeze them.
Thanks in advance.
Correct me if I’m wrong I’m looking to do a full audio setup of ds18 and skar but not a subwoofer I’m looking to add super tweeters normal tweeters 6.5s and 6x9s but I’m going to run them off of my amp to the radio can u still do this with this converter even though I’ve re re routed them to the amp ?
I have them wired threw my back speakers and ran to the converter box, I have the same box too but every time I put the second rca cable it seems to make my subs stop working, but I disconnect one and they work but not fully
Why cut the wire in half on main harness? When you can just stripe the insulation off, ice pic the wire & run your single wire Thur & twist it together like you do on a alarm install.
The remote wire you connected straight to the amp. Will it automatically shut off the amp or do I have to run the wire straight to a fuse then run another wire from the fuse to the amp? It appears I used this video and the amp stays on from running the blue white wire to my amp when the car is off
If I want the amp on 4 speakers rear and front should I use 2 output converter ?
So I adjusted the gains on this particular LOC before I realized I wasn't supposed to and now i don't know where the proper setting should be. Can you help me in resetting the gains to where it sounding.properly?
Do you need to splice and connect every single wire of the converter to the radio??
Did you use the ground off wiring harness or did you ground the loc to metal behind the dash?
If i do it this way, while the amp turn on and off with my radio? Or will it stay on the whole time ?
So you only need a line output converter if you are installing an aftermarket amp or sub? My car has a stock radio with a sub and I bought this converter because I thought I would need it, but I guess I don’t? I’m still trying to wire in my new aftermarket radio but I don’t have an amp and the only sub I have is the stock one..
Hey man, nice video. I think you should consider soldering your cable connections. It makes them much more durable and last longer. I do have one question, I have a 17 Civic lx-p, is it possible to install a replacement head unit ? My biggest concern is that alot of the vehicle controls like TPMS reset and AC controls are all via the head unit. I don't know if any manufacturers support those things. Great video though!
" a lot"....of people use this incorrectly. First of all, soldering wires does give you a great connection. But in a car you never use solder. Because cars move and vibrate. Especially when you add bass. So you are adding a weak point to your flexible wires. Notice cars never come this way from anyone. Ever.
I'll try to explain. Have you ever soldered a wire? Notice the hard section after you bend it? That becomes a weak point and over time it will break. Becoming a fire hazard. There's heat shrink to protect it but still. It will break and become an open circuit. So either you don't have a working unit or you just lose your ride to a fire.
Crimp connectors have been proven over years and years. You do it right it will last for a very long time. You can also use heat shrink on crimped connections. I would recommend that. Much cleaner.
@@PFab i would say it depends on how well you solder. if im coating both wires completely with a light solder then its solid and aint never coming loose shrink wrap on top of that. connecters are good but they fail plenty which is why more people prefer to solder. it may be better for inside the vehicle but solder is far better outside than connectors
@@baggedtuned8569 I have taken an electronic class in college. Not saying I'm the best but I did get an A- in it. And that was many years ago. Mainly for soldering connections and many types of them. The strongest was the twisted version where the wires were coated first then twisted into each other and then soldered again together. So I have a bit of a background. My concern was the wire itself. Thera a solid section where the wire is soldered together and there a section the wire ends and is back to strans. If you bend the wire back and forth enough, over time it will break at that point. Making the soldier point useless. Even though that will most likely never fail the stranded section will fail.
@@PFab will the shrink wrap hold it straight and keep it from bending ?
@@baggedtuned8569 I didn't think about that part but yes you are correct. Shrink wrap will definitely be supportive. I could see that being the best option.
I was wondering if you could show the specific connections you made for the LOC to the wiring harness. I have a 2016 EX-T civic and I want follow that exact patter. If you could not show the wires could you make a diagram. (Example: RED to YELLOW, WHITE to GREEN) I’m not very familiar with stereo connections.
I would recommend checking this video out ua-cam.com/video/zLLc60Gp0X4/v-deo.html and referencing my pinned comment on that video. It should show you everything you need for a 10th gen civic including a wiring diagram.
I subbed
Whats the best parameters for the adjustment knobs on the impedance converter? Is it middle or full turn to the right?
Can you just run the yellow battery wire to the positive input of the amp
What if i have a monoblock should i put the line converters positive together and negatives together into 1 speaker only?
What AWG is the butt connectors? I can’t find out which ones to use. If needed run a 2014 Vaux Corsa D
Good vid, but would suggest getting a male and female aftermarket harness so that you don't cut up the factory one.
Thanks! I completely agree about getting a male/female aftermarket harness to keep integrity to the wiring harness, but I couldn't find a male plug for this car so I worked with what I had.
That's what I was thinking also so I wouldn't mess around with the original wires
@@SoonerGarage what kind of car? They make them for every make and model. The new new cars and trucks have to be custom made right now and they take forever but worth the wait
so the back of the radio has connections for every single wire and we splice all of them? Also, how do we know which cables are left + and left -, etc
We hooked up one of these to a 2011 buick lacrosse and when we turn it on it worked but we are getting interference and the sub hits when we adjust it at all and makes the sub hum any ideas and I mean it hums like loud