@@mldiy no problem and appreciate it! The single fluid reservoir for both brake and clutch fluid just throws me for a loop. I’ve bled a clutch and brake system before on cars that have separate fluid reservoirs. I’m assuming this would be the same but just would like to see someone do it first. I prefer manual bleeding also without a pressure bleeder or things of that sort
@@S2kRJon Hi, besides having a single reservoir, the process is the same as if the systems were separate. Basically after the reservoir, the fluid "forks" to either the brakes or clutch lines and doesn't really cross over. That's why one can bleed the brakes or the clutch and not impact the other system. I did a quick check of service information as well and it doesn't give any specific guidance on messing with the brakes side in order to bleed the clutch. If you know where the clutch bleed valve is (near the front of the car, next to the downpipe--I think), you bleed it the same way as the brakes with two people. The bleed valve screw is 8 nm if you want to torque it. Hope it helps if you want to go ahead and try, otherwise it might be a couple months for me to get a video for ya.
@@mldiy appreciate it! I’m not in dire need of bleeding the system so may just wait until someone or you comes out with a video. Thanks for the info though!
Yes, the second person builds brake line pressure, then you open the valve and the fluid comes out. Then the second person's foot bottoms out the pedal and you close the valve. Do it until the fluid looks like the fluid you put up top. I recommend you watch the video a couple times. If it still really doesn't make sense after that, I think my suggestion is try to get someone to help you that has done it before.
Here's the link for ya! It's also in the description along with links to other tools I used. amzn.to/3AxlADT Hope this video will help you out, thanks for watching, liking, subbing etc. It really helps the channel.
@@vinhphan0909 I used 3 and would recommend 3 if you haven't done it before. When you get familiar with it, you can probably do it with just 2 bottles.
Hi Jaidan, the photo capture is a page from the official Honda service information. It pays to have friends in the industry. That said, there are definitely generous folks in Honda forums so join a community and ask nicely. Best of luck, I truly do want my video to help folks DIY, so let me know how it goes. Thanks for the comment.
@@mldiyohh wow thats amazing in fact. After giving a deeper search i managed to find the pdf service manual and saw the same image you shared. Insert Leanardo DiCaprio meme here 😂. But thanks a million for sharing and replying to many comments and sharing knowledge for us Fk8 owners. Bigman!
There is a bleeder for the clutch. It is near the front of the car, next to the downpipe (I think). You can bleed it the same way as the brakes w/ two people. My understanding is that you don't need to bleed the clutch as often as the brakes. It's sharing the same brake fluid but it's not getting heated up the same way as the brakes, so even if it has absorbed water, it won't have the same risks as old brake fluid in the brake system. Thanks for the comment and for watching!
No, I didn't bleed the clutch with the brakes. I know some people like to do it at the same time, but the fluid in the clutch doesn't go through the same pressure or heat cycles that the brakes do, so for me, I'm ok with going longer between changes. I probably wouldn't change it personally until the clutch started feeling different. (If one is tracking the Type R, yea, I could see wanting to change the clutch fluid more frequently)
@@andrewhedley4354 I missed your comments from many months ago. The clutch has it's own lines off the reservoir so technically it doesn't matter the order. I'd probably do it last just to see what kind of fluid I had remaining--since I know it's ok to skip or do it later/separately.
Yes, generally you want a second person to push the brakes while you are bleeding. Brake pedal down > loosen bleed screw > tighten screw > brake pedal back up. Repeat until fluid is clear. If you have a long enough hose, you can pump the brakes a few times before tightening the screw, but if you've never done it before, I would recommend the more conservative way above. Thanks for commenting and subscribing, good luck!
if i have the car jacked up on all 4 points, do i have to be concerned about turning the wheel? in other words, could the cars weight shift enough to make it fall?
No, if you are on the pinch welds (jack points) than you will not have any issues with turning the steering wheel. At home, getting jack stands on all 4 wheels might be a bit of a challenge. The fastest way is with an extended reach low profile jack that can hit the front center jack point and rear jack points on the CTR. Then you can just put jack stands on the sides when the front or rear is fully lifted. Option 2 is some folks use two jacks to either hit the center jack point or just transfer from a control arm. And the last is to jack up, put jack stands on control arms, then shuffle jack stands back to the pinch welds with a jack. Thanks for the comment, hopes this helps.
What about the 5X parking brake actuation that is mentioned on All Data? Does anyone have info on whether or not the system should be under pressure or not while using a pressure bleeder?
Hi Bull, the step you mention is only if you're taking a part the brake lines and introducing air into the system. The manufacturer recommendation is to bleed the brakes as per a video like mine, then pump the parking brake 5x, then rebleed the rear brakes. If you didn't introduce air (e.g. swapping a caliper, putting in steel brake lines, etc), then you likely don't need to do this, which is why I didn't mention it in my video. If you want to do it anyway just for piece of mind, you would brake bleed FL, FR, RR, RL, then 5x parking brake, then RR and RL again. I hope this helps. (Editing this comment multiple months later because I realized I flipped the drivers and passenger side when typing)
@@mldiyexact process I did. Only thing though is it’s Driver Front, passenger Front, passenger Rear, Driver Rear ( you showed this in video; clock wise from driver seat) I think it’s wise to just do the 5 parking brake cycle and redo the rear as you already have everything set up. With high performance driving it’s not unusual to get air in system
@@LoveLikeaHurricane I really appreciate your wisdom! Thanks for taking the time to comment and share your learnings. It makes a lot of sense and not that much effort to do the rears one more time.
@@garytman007 Hi, I never got notified on this message and just randomly happened to see it now. Yes, you would go through the whole process and @lovelikeahurricane comment above described it best.
I'm like 95% confident that the brake bleed steps and order is the same in the 11th gen (FL>FR>RR>RL). I didn't do it in the video but the recommendation is to actuate the parking brake 5 times and rebleed the rears once you do all four. You don't technically need to unless you introduce air into the system or if you really just want to make sure you bleed every ounce of brake fluid.
Hi Ben, I left the parking brake off. Honda service information says to apply and release the rear parking brake 5 times, then rebleed the rear calipers to ensure all the air is out of the system. I feel like this is only necessary if you replace parts, e.g. replaced a brake line or master cylinder. Since this video was just doing the 2 year maintenance to bleed in new DOT4 fluid, there was no air in the system and I didn't feel it necessary to do that part. I hope this helps and thanks for watching/commenting.
Hi Eddie, I think its the same order but I will update here if I learn more from folks I know at Honda. If you're just doing a maintenance bleed and not introducing air from replacing lines, etc, the order is not as necessary. The bleed order is more to ensure one gets all the air out of the system. Good luck! And I'll have more videos in the future for cars like this, please consider subscribing to help out the channel. Thank you! www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
Part 1 for the 2020 Honda Civic Type R here: ua-cam.com/video/vId1pHHksOY/v-deo.html Your likes and subscribes really help out this channel, thank you!
Even though the clutch uses the same fluid reservoir as the brakes, the brakes are bled because the DOT4 fluid gets heated up and degrades over time. The brake system fluid is under a lot more pressure. So while we want to keep the fluid as fresh as possible, the fluid in the clutch isn't under the same heat or pressure. Definitely bleed the clutch if it feels squishy, but otherwise it's not necessary. Maybe do it every 5 years (my opinion) if you think you are keeping the car for 20. Hope this helps.
You only need to when you replace a brake system component. For the maintenance interval service, you don't need to--as per Honda service information. Thanks for supporting the channel.
Hi, 3/8" Outer Diameter / 1/4" Inner Diameter will work best. Though if you have a 1/4" OD hose it would fit with a little persuasion. I appreciate the question and I realized I didn't include the details for clear hose in my description. Thanks so much for pointing that out! And here's a link to 3/8" OD hose on amazon, but it's cheaper on Home Depot amzn.to/417J50X
Thanks. Planning on getting a type r myself. And hoping to work on the car myself.
The clear hose could have a longer section pointed upward to ensure bubbles don't get sucked back in.
Great video! Would you be able to upload a video on bleeding the clutch in the Type R as well?
You're not the first to ask, let me see what I can do. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@mldiy no problem and appreciate it! The single fluid reservoir for both brake and clutch fluid just throws me for a loop. I’ve bled a clutch and brake system before on cars that have separate fluid reservoirs. I’m assuming this would be the same but just would like to see someone do it first. I prefer manual bleeding also without a pressure bleeder or things of that sort
@@S2kRJon Hi, besides having a single reservoir, the process is the same as if the systems were separate. Basically after the reservoir, the fluid "forks" to either the brakes or clutch lines and doesn't really cross over. That's why one can bleed the brakes or the clutch and not impact the other system. I did a quick check of service information as well and it doesn't give any specific guidance on messing with the brakes side in order to bleed the clutch. If you know where the clutch bleed valve is (near the front of the car, next to the downpipe--I think), you bleed it the same way as the brakes with two people. The bleed valve screw is 8 nm if you want to torque it. Hope it helps if you want to go ahead and try, otherwise it might be a couple months for me to get a video for ya.
@@mldiy appreciate it! I’m not in dire need of bleeding the system so may just wait until someone or you comes out with a video. Thanks for the info though!
Great tutorial!
gracias! gran video
De nada! Gracias por ver y comentar.
Awesome
done get it , the second person pump the brakes BEFORE i open the valve ? you open the valve and then what ?
Yes, the second person builds brake line pressure, then you open the valve and the fluid comes out. Then the second person's foot bottoms out the pedal and you close the valve. Do it until the fluid looks like the fluid you put up top. I recommend you watch the video a couple times. If it still really doesn't make sense after that, I think my suggestion is try to get someone to help you that has done it before.
Can I know the part number of the Brake Fluid for fk8 type r ? I need to replace it in the next service . Thanks
Here's the link for ya! It's also in the description along with links to other tools I used. amzn.to/3AxlADT Hope this video will help you out, thanks for watching, liking, subbing etc. It really helps the channel.
thanks for your reply , How many bottle for 4 brakes ?
@@vinhphan0909 I used 3 and would recommend 3 if you haven't done it before. When you get familiar with it, you can probably do it with just 2 bottles.
@@mldiy I may buy 3 and let my trusted guy do it for haha. thanks for your help
Where did you get the photo capture of the sequence roatation? Great video btw, will be doing mine asap as i've seen this vid.
Hi Jaidan, the photo capture is a page from the official Honda service information. It pays to have friends in the industry. That said, there are definitely generous folks in Honda forums so join a community and ask nicely. Best of luck, I truly do want my video to help folks DIY, so let me know how it goes. Thanks for the comment.
@@mldiyohh wow thats amazing in fact. After giving a deeper search i managed to find the pdf service manual and saw the same image you shared. Insert Leanardo DiCaprio meme here 😂. But thanks a million for sharing and replying to many comments and sharing knowledge for us Fk8 owners. Bigman!
Awesome video. You should do a DIY video of everything
Is there a bleeder for the hydraulic clutch. Doesn’t that use the brake fluid too?
There is a bleeder for the clutch. It is near the front of the car, next to the downpipe (I think). You can bleed it the same way as the brakes w/ two people. My understanding is that you don't need to bleed the clutch as often as the brakes. It's sharing the same brake fluid but it's not getting heated up the same way as the brakes, so even if it has absorbed water, it won't have the same risks as old brake fluid in the brake system. Thanks for the comment and for watching!
Nice video! Did you also bleed the clutch when bleeding the brake?
No, I didn't bleed the clutch with the brakes. I know some people like to do it at the same time, but the fluid in the clutch doesn't go through the same pressure or heat cycles that the brakes do, so for me, I'm ok with going longer between changes. I probably wouldn't change it personally until the clutch started feeling different. (If one is tracking the Type R, yea, I could see wanting to change the clutch fluid more frequently)
The slave cylinder gets very hot due to the cat or decat
Just thinking would you bleed the clutch last?
@@andrewhedley4354 I missed your comments from many months ago. The clutch has it's own lines off the reservoir so technically it doesn't matter the order. I'd probably do it last just to see what kind of fluid I had remaining--since I know it's ok to skip or do it later/separately.
Do we need to press the brake while we changing the fluid?
Yes, generally you want a second person to push the brakes while you are bleeding. Brake pedal down > loosen bleed screw > tighten screw > brake pedal back up. Repeat until fluid is clear. If you have a long enough hose, you can pump the brakes a few times before tightening the screw, but if you've never done it before, I would recommend the more conservative way above. Thanks for commenting and subscribing, good luck!
if i have the car jacked up on all 4 points, do i have to be concerned about turning the wheel? in other words, could the cars weight shift enough to make it fall?
No, if you are on the pinch welds (jack points) than you will not have any issues with turning the steering wheel. At home, getting jack stands on all 4 wheels might be a bit of a challenge. The fastest way is with an extended reach low profile jack that can hit the front center jack point and rear jack points on the CTR. Then you can just put jack stands on the sides when the front or rear is fully lifted. Option 2 is some folks use two jacks to either hit the center jack point or just transfer from a control arm. And the last is to jack up, put jack stands on control arms, then shuffle jack stands back to the pinch welds with a jack. Thanks for the comment, hopes this helps.
What about the 5X parking brake actuation that is mentioned on All Data? Does anyone have info on whether or not the system should be under pressure or not while using a pressure bleeder?
Hi Bull, the step you mention is only if you're taking a part the brake lines and introducing air into the system. The manufacturer recommendation is to bleed the brakes as per a video like mine, then pump the parking brake 5x, then rebleed the rear brakes. If you didn't introduce air (e.g. swapping a caliper, putting in steel brake lines, etc), then you likely don't need to do this, which is why I didn't mention it in my video. If you want to do it anyway just for piece of mind, you would brake bleed FL, FR, RR, RL, then 5x parking brake, then RR and RL again. I hope this helps. (Editing this comment multiple months later because I realized I flipped the drivers and passenger side when typing)
@@mldiyexact process I did. Only thing though is it’s
Driver Front, passenger Front, passenger Rear, Driver Rear
( you showed this in video; clock wise from driver seat)
I think it’s wise to just do the 5 parking brake cycle and redo the rear as you already have everything set up. With high performance driving it’s not unusual to get air in system
@@LoveLikeaHurricane I really appreciate your wisdom! Thanks for taking the time to comment and share your learnings. It makes a lot of sense and not that much effort to do the rears one more time.
@mldiy so So by disconnecting the brake line in order to install a new caliper, this would require you to bleed all 4 calipers correct?
@@garytman007 Hi, I never got notified on this message and just randomly happened to see it now. Yes, you would go through the whole process and @lovelikeahurricane comment above described it best.
Is this going to be the same for the fl5?
I'm like 95% confident that the brake bleed steps and order is the same in the 11th gen (FL>FR>RR>RL). I didn't do it in the video but the recommendation is to actuate the parking brake 5 times and rebleed the rears once you do all four. You don't technically need to unless you introduce air into the system or if you really just want to make sure you bleed every ounce of brake fluid.
Thanks brother!
You left the parking brake on or off the whole time?
Hi Ben, I left the parking brake off. Honda service information says to apply and release the rear parking brake 5 times, then rebleed the rear calipers to ensure all the air is out of the system. I feel like this is only necessary if you replace parts, e.g. replaced a brake line or master cylinder. Since this video was just doing the 2 year maintenance to bleed in new DOT4 fluid, there was no air in the system and I didn't feel it necessary to do that part. I hope this helps and thanks for watching/commenting.
Would this be the same on the FL5? Anyone know?
Hi Eddie, I think its the same order but I will update here if I learn more from folks I know at Honda. If you're just doing a maintenance bleed and not introducing air from replacing lines, etc, the order is not as necessary. The bleed order is more to ensure one gets all the air out of the system. Good luck! And I'll have more videos in the future for cars like this, please consider subscribing to help out the channel. Thank you! www.youtube.com/@mldiy?sub_confirmation=1
Should you change fluid if just changing rear pads if so do I just bleed rear brakes
Part 1 for the 2020 Honda Civic Type R here: ua-cam.com/video/vId1pHHksOY/v-deo.html Your likes and subscribes really help out this channel, thank you!
So you guys forgot to bleed the clutch?
Even though the clutch uses the same fluid reservoir as the brakes, the brakes are bled because the DOT4 fluid gets heated up and degrades over time. The brake system fluid is under a lot more pressure. So while we want to keep the fluid as fresh as possible, the fluid in the clutch isn't under the same heat or pressure. Definitely bleed the clutch if it feels squishy, but otherwise it's not necessary. Maybe do it every 5 years (my opinion) if you think you are keeping the car for 20. Hope this helps.
What about bleeding the ABS?
You only need to when you replace a brake system component. For the maintenance interval service, you don't need to--as per Honda service information. Thanks for supporting the channel.
@@mldiy thank you
The 3/8 inch hose is it the outside diameter or inside diameter?
Hi, 3/8" Outer Diameter / 1/4" Inner Diameter will work best. Though if you have a 1/4" OD hose it would fit with a little persuasion. I appreciate the question and I realized I didn't include the details for clear hose in my description. Thanks so much for pointing that out! And here's a link to 3/8" OD hose on amazon, but it's cheaper on Home Depot amzn.to/417J50X