*Correction* Add 2.3 quarts of fluid and not just 2 quarts. *Update* These fixes worked great for about 6 months, then the grind started slowly coming back. So I replaced the Rear Motor Mount in Oct 2021 with the Hasport 62A. The grind immediately went away and hasn't returned and it's now April 2023. The Mount is Here: bit.ly/3zFiUna
Man that snap ring you mentioned gave me issues on my 8th gen Si. Was doing a slave cylinder and I figured I'd buy an exedy one as I heard they make the OEM clutches for Honda and figured I'd give their slave cylinder a try. While I was in the car pumping the clutch I heard a loud POP and my outside guy yelled at me to stop. Turned out they didnt get that snap ring in from the factory and it shot off into oblivion coating my fender in brake fluid at the same time! Made the drive to my local honda dealer and but the bullet on a new OEM one. Haven't looked back since!
Not sure if anyone knows, but to also perform the fluid level check, there is another bolt that is 12mm in size. As you fill the 2-3 quarts of fluid there should be the level port that begins to drip out slowly. Doing this ensure that there is optimum amount of transmission fluid and that its not under shorted.
I’ve been battling 2nd gear grind in my 2019 for years. I changed the fluid 2x with oem before going amsoil which helped. Just recently this weekend noticed a lot of slack and adjusted my Slave cylinder rod. I haven’t had an issue yet after getting onto it once or twice. I also have a billet rear motor mount. If I have another issue, I will also adjust my pedal. Mine occurred most with a passenger and during the summer, so I’m still looking out for it. So far, it’s much improved.
6k miles? Sheesh. Do people not drive these things? Only owned my 21 for 6 months and put 7,400 on it. Bought it with 3 miles on the clock. Appreciate the informative video btw
@@hirpmvtec I do about 50 a day, but Im used to doing it in a manual. The A/C works too well and I like the creature comforts in newer cars so I just daily it lol. Tried to do it in my 98 Cobra, and was miserable
@@ChokolateSushi23 I hear you man. I got rear ended when I had my si so I’m a good bit paranoid now in bumper in bumper traffic. I plan to get rid of the Mazda soon enough for a newer daily with more comfort features like you mentioned.
I've been working from home for the past 5 years so I don't typically have anywhere to go. Also I have 3 cars, so that makes it easier to keep the miles down
Amsoil for all fluids... Making 500whp on my 6speed Type S... NO gear grinds EVER unless they were my fault in the first place from bad clutch control/shifting.
Grinding synchros in a LITERALLY brand new transmission is just absolutely awful.. nothing can be worse. All the transmissions I’ve had that had pop out, grinding, or any other issues had 200k on the odo and even then, the issues weren’t as bad. The new FL5 has a beefier trans supposedly, hopefully all those issues are gone.
This works flawless with just adjusting the two nuts on my accord way better shifting brings the clutch up higher tho but small compromise for this smoothness and ur the only one who really described the procedure well thanks again man
So i been reading and the one you said its recommends for an automatic transmission.. so i am wondering why you choice that motul mutil ATF instead of the MTF (Aka gear oil)???
I can't believe Honda still haven't fixed this issue they have had the famous 2nd gear grind all the way back since 2001 DC5 type R days. All this time and they can't release a car without it grinding 2nd gear. What a joke. They make one of the best manual feel transmission but that issue just wrecks it all. It shouldn't be up to us to solve it. This is Honda's issue.
Lol, I sometimes use gun oil for other things besides guns. I had done every modification to get rid of that 1-2 gear grind. Hybrid Racing drop in short shifter, AC Delco friction modified trans fluid, later Hybrid Racing shifter bushings, PRL braided stainless steel hydraulic clutch line. I also installed a modified cmc I bought from k20z3allmotor which didn’t fix the grind without doing my last mod. The last mod that seemed to fix it was removing the delay valve including adjusting the engagement point. I don’t even want to visually see how the synchros look after all these grinds since the first day of delivery of taking my Type R home from the dealer. Wish I did the delay valve removal first.
Better to just take it easy with the downshifting. There is no reason to bang it in second gear, since the car pull in 3rd gear from about 3,500 rpms. My cars transmission feels like butter. So this guy should get a car with paddle shifters.
Cześć.Mam podobny problem w Honda CR-V 3, jak szybciej wrzucam drugi bieg to chrupanie,najczęściej przy wyjeździe w lewo lub prawo.Wymieniłem olej na Valvoline 75W, jest naprawdę żadki, prawie jak ATF,ma lepkość 33 w 40 stopniach Celsjusza.Jak u Ciebie po tych modyfikacjach i regulacji luzu pompy sprzęgła? Jest dobrze?
My Fk8 (19) didn’t grind but it was crunchy when it’s absolutely cold .. I did synchromesh and cmc adjustment .. mine had a good amount of slack from factory .. I was able to adjust almost a full turn until I got resistance .. I can slam gears with no problems. .
Best fix is don’t drive in comfort mode that’s what causes extra wear on your synchros since you can’t rev match because it does it manually it revs too little in comfort mode and it clunks into gear making them notchy until it wears out
Hi ! Amazing video but I have one question... I adjusted my CMC plunger without adjusting the pedal play. Not every FK8 comes with the same setting I guess so some people may need to add more than 1 full rotation ? I also read on Civicx that the pedal freeplay is not based on preference. There is only one correct position. So i'm kinda lost regarding this :p
I removed the clutch delay valve on my 9th gen Si and it immediately solved the grind issues. Similar process to remove it. I've added it to the list of things I hate about Hondas like the rotor screws that just rust on.
Man ef those screws. Put a screw driver on it, hit it with a hammer a few good times and it should get loose no prob with a torque driver. Be sure to press real hard or you risk stripping the screw
Always love seeing your FK8 videos. I had a problem with the second gear grind and I put on the 27WON rear motor mount and it significantly made those shifts better but I do occasionally still get grinds. I will be following your advice, thanks brother!
Dude! Thank your for this vid! You really help address and show me what I can do to help my grind issue. Love your channel and you have helped me so much with my fk8 over the last few months.
Thank you for this. I hated googling this problem on my 2018 and not finding anything useful. Will be doing this sometime. Was gonna give up my Type R, but now I think I'm going to keep it because of you. Thanks again!!!
I did the pedal adjust when I first bought my 2019 and I only get grinds when I don't fully depress the pedal. I'm currently at about 20k and things seem to be golden. Thanks for the video and I might do the CDV just to have the immediate clutch engagement.
Hey! I was looking for solutions after countless grinds in my 19 R after putting about 10k miles past 5 months with dealer was just trying to pull “we cant do anything about your grinds” and i think cmc adjustment really helped improving the feel of the car! Car used to be very clunky and almost felt like “stalling” first couple gears which made me over think but it literally gotten rid of all the problems I have (for now). I don’t think I will ever do delay valve delete but this is gold. Thank you so much for such valuable information! Enjoy your car!!
First thing I would do to “fix” it would be to go to Honda!!!!! First and only thing. Did you not get a warranty with your new car that only had 6 miles on it?
Update i still have the play before i feel the real actual pressure of the clutch being pushed in just has no loose pedal play up top anymore.. also i can push the slave in by hand aswell. I read to check that out.
hey buddy i have been following you for quite a while, i started following you for pew pew videos. i have a 20 FK8 and watching this video because i am having the same problem after a few track days. I am also a professional technician and on the power bleeder when you were bleeding the system., buy some dot 3 or 4 brake fluid and fill the power bleeder with the fluid and you don't have to watch the brake fluid level because it will refill as it drains the fluid. I have also found that when bleeding the brake system on our cars they prefer vacuum instead of pressure due to the ABS block. Great video and i would love to se some videos of you tracking the car! Keep up the great work man!
I remember having transmission grind on my FG2 SI. I had the clutch changed, as well as the fluid. Apparently, there was a recall on the trans fluid Honda used on the SI at the time. They recommended using the previous year RSX Type S trans fluid if I remember correctly. Also, those wrenches are flare nut wrenches. I’ve used those for fuel fittings ☺️
Adjusting the CMC made such a difference in my car! Aside from the grind, my car always behaved weirdly, letting off the clutch- almost as if it had an anvil for a flywheel haha. Seriously, it was always kind of lurching, when shifting and letting off the clutch. After adjusting the pedal stop and rod, it now behaves like a clutch! It honestly made me question my skills, which was absolutely disheartening after buying the car...
GM Synchromesh fluid , I literally poured it in , backed car out and the difference was incredible in first .10 mile driving out from shop. At time the Midas I worked at was back that road and honestly it's the best pour in service I'll brag on. INCREDIBLE was the actual butter smooth shifts and this was for customers bone stock car. SHE loves the shift now. It is impressive
the only times I ever got grinds was when I pushed the car hard from a launch. I installed the mid motor mount and they were gone. After I installed a short shifter from hybrid racing I got a grind 3 times on the same day just normal driving. I removed the shifter and didn’t get any but I now feel second gear being a little rough. I was going to change my fluid next oil change but I’ll try the adjuster bolt first like you said. Thank you sir. I hope you start posting soon.
3 things i woud suggest, trans fluid, stiffer rear motor mount at least a 72A from hasport or any other equivalent , and delay valve delete on slave or both slave and clutch master cyclinder.
Which transmission fluid do you recommend Motul or AC Delco? I will get the AC delco FM since I heard is the best one but I think is about they are similar
2015-2021 wrx has a similar issue as well. its the combination of cable linkage shifter, soft rear mounts, and clutch delay valve. hate cable shifters lol. the sti however, has no issue, it has solid selector rods going straight into the transmission like a proper longitudinally mounted trans.
I don’t own a Type R, but I do have a ‘19 Si with similar issues. I bought it with 47k miles and 2nd gear seems to have issues at random times....not usually showing up whether it’s hot or cold or indifferent or anything of the sort. I’ve seen where you can replace the shifter assembly bushings, which I have yet to try. With that though, I had realized my clutch pedal has A LOT of play in it before it actually engages and in watching your video, I’m nearly certain that adjusting the pedal will help a lot more than the bushings. Either way, I appreciate the video! (Hopefully you have more on here of the same sort of content)
I remember the frustration of this from my 2008 Civic Si. I ended up getting rid of it after major transmission issues after 160K miles. Seeing that the Type R still has these shifting issues, I wouldn't want that headache all over again. I really like the car but I may end up looking for something else to buy instead.
I find removing the clutch delay valve helps a lot with the gear grinding. Honda MTF seems to hold up longer than AcDelco Synchromesh Friction Modified. All in all, Amsoil Synchromesh MTF got rid of the gear crunches and did last longer than AcDelco SM FM for me.
I have a 2018 si and for my car, it’s not a grind it’s a crunch or a double clunk. Also first gear locks out a lot or goes in half way and pops out. Reverse seems to be hard to find all of the time and it’s very picky about when it’ll go into gear. Third gear would occasionally grind but I found that to sometimes be my fault. Third gear would also lock out like first. My 27won race rear motor mount eliminated the third gear grind/lockout. My Acuity stage 1 shift kit also helped with the second gear double clunk but it’s still there. Reverse is still hard to find too. The first gear lockout is still there as well. It’ll go half way in to the gear then either stay there or it’ll go a little further but not all the way and then pop out when I start driving. Its only a problem when stopped. It’s a pretty common problem for me and can leave me stopped for up to 15 seconds when the light turns green. My friend has a 2019 type r and his car has the same first gear problem and he has an Acuity short shifter with linkage bushings. First gear would lock out. I’ve even experienced it when testing his short shifter.
2 years later...any fix? I have 2019 si and same issues literally. Adjusted the clutch pedal but still can't find the correct position to eliminate the grind
I did the install with a friend and I installed one by myself, it doesn’t hurt to have another set of hands but it’s not entirely necessary. It’s my favorite mod I’ve ever done on the car and nearly I’m fbo at this point
To help people find them easier. Those funky box wrenches are Flare Nut Wrenches. Also a 100% must for brake lines. And for the snap rings. Snap ring pliers. They have sets with different tip sizes for small snap rings.
Gonna do what ya said and get that valve out also getting the shifter mods you mentioned from another video got the bushings on the way already. And also helped me decide on side markers. That’s for the great vids and detailed explanations
I also fix mine conplete too..did the cnc, better but that didn't fix it completely, did amsoil, switch to gm Synchromesh, stopped from grindbut couldnt shift hard, that didn't completely fix it, then I use hondata, that completely fix it after..now I drive as hard as I want with no grind or rubbing feel
I always see your videos and I came across this product. Might help with your 0-60 time. Injen x-pedal pro. Supposed to give you a quicker reaction time.
Itd be really funny if all his grinds were actually from not putting clutch all the way down .... Like I know he says he wasn't doing it.... But how will we really know
One thing I’ve noticed after also owning an 8th gen si is that most people think they have a solution for gear grinds. I’m not sure if each car is just different or if people get some placebo when the grind ‘goes away.’ I hope it works for you, and I’ll have to try some of this stuff if mine ever grinds.
I have only gotten a grind 2 times in 4100 miles... Both times it was "my fault" , power shifting into 2nd at redline. I am going to switch Redline mt90 fluid when i do first oil change. Also got rear mount going in when i do that... But after seeing this video, I'll go ahead and also adjust that pedal and see. Thanks for the info.
Most of the Time the grinding into 2nd gear comes from shifting too early into 2nd before You fully have the foot down all the way on the clutch or lifting the clutch too early. It happened during the early stages when I first drove my Integra Type R DC5. After You practiced enough, it doesn't grind anymore for Me, only once in a long while. Most of the time it is the human error more than the Mechanical error. Honda Type R's including the S2000 have had the Best Manual Shifting Gearboxes in the Market for Front Wheel Drives for a Long Time. You hardly hear about having such grinding problems about these cars in Japan and other Asian markets.
A clutch delay valve on a type r is funny to me it’s a sports car not a economy car. But now I’m looking to see if my 10th Gen si has it probably does never knew about this.
I hate to tell you but nothing externally will fix it, it's gonna take a second gear synchro replacement just like all past Honda transmission 2 or 3rd gear grinds
I love that you put every link possible in the description. I respect that you put amazon links for parts I did not know were on ebay and amazon, I wouldve went and spent the extra money from a tuner website like a dummy.
Backing the pedal bolt out and then adjusting the plunger did not worn for me. It made a lot more resistance going into gear. I ended up going a full turn and a half in with the pedal bolt and then adjusting the plunger. 2nd still grinds.
Hey brotha great vids i love them i just wanted to get your input on BOV for the type r i see you don’t have one and i see other people don’t and other people do what’s your opinion on the matter
*Correction* Add 2.3 quarts of fluid and not just 2 quarts.
*Update* These fixes worked great for about 6 months, then the grind started slowly coming back. So I replaced the Rear Motor Mount in Oct 2021 with the Hasport 62A. The grind immediately went away and hasn't returned and it's now April 2023. The Mount is Here: bit.ly/3zFiUna
Did you buy the street mount? Or race?
@@hustletussle4722 The 62A is the street mount.
I got rid of my 2nd gear grind with stiffer rear motor mount.
I'm getting that next
@@TORQToolbox any reccomendations?
Did you do any fluid swap or did any cdv delete? Or just a stiff rear motor mount?
Any links for the motor mount
@@gripfk8 Just the motor mount for me.
Man that snap ring you mentioned gave me issues on my 8th gen Si. Was doing a slave cylinder and I figured I'd buy an exedy one as I heard they make the OEM clutches for Honda and figured I'd give their slave cylinder a try. While I was in the car pumping the clutch I heard a loud POP and my outside guy yelled at me to stop. Turned out they didnt get that snap ring in from the factory and it shot off into oblivion coating my fender in brake fluid at the same time! Made the drive to my local honda dealer and but the bullet on a new OEM one. Haven't looked back since!
Dude, you're the BEST!! You do such a service for all of us and I greatly appreciate it!! Thank you bro, keep up the great work and God Bless!!!
Not sure if anyone knows, but to also perform the fluid level check, there is another bolt that is 12mm in size. As you fill the 2-3 quarts of fluid there should be the level port that begins to drip out slowly. Doing this ensure that there is optimum amount of transmission fluid and that its not under shorted.
I’ve been battling 2nd gear grind in my 2019 for years. I changed the fluid 2x with oem before going amsoil which helped. Just recently this weekend noticed a lot of slack and adjusted my Slave cylinder rod. I haven’t had an issue yet after getting onto it once or twice. I also have a billet rear motor mount. If I have another issue, I will also adjust my pedal. Mine occurred most with a passenger and during the summer, so I’m still looking out for it. So far, it’s much improved.
Get proper mounts, stick with amsoil, and get an upgraded MC.. Ive been power shifting and launching my 500whp Type S without grinds for years.
6k miles? Sheesh. Do people not drive these things? Only owned my 21 for 6 months and put 7,400 on it. Bought it with 3 miles on the clock. Appreciate the informative video btw
My 2019 has 5,500 miles. I commute 64 miles everyday so I would rather sit in traffic in my 2006 mazda 6 vs my R.
@@hirpmvtec I do about 50 a day, but Im used to doing it in a manual. The A/C works too well and I like the creature comforts in newer cars so I just daily it lol. Tried to do it in my 98 Cobra, and was miserable
@@ChokolateSushi23 I hear you man. I got rear ended when I had my si so I’m a good bit paranoid now in bumper in bumper traffic. I plan to get rid of the Mazda soon enough for a newer daily with more comfort features like you mentioned.
@@hirpmvtec understandable. I would be too!
I've been working from home for the past 5 years so I don't typically have anywhere to go. Also I have 3 cars, so that makes it easier to keep the miles down
Amsoil for all fluids... Making 500whp on my 6speed Type S... NO gear grinds EVER unless they were my fault in the first place from bad clutch control/shifting.
Thank you for the great information. I will take this info back to the dealership I work at. 👍
Just an FYI, Civic Type R transmission fluid capacity is 2.3 quarts, not 2 quarts
Grinding synchros in a LITERALLY brand new transmission is just absolutely awful.. nothing can be worse. All the transmissions I’ve had that had pop out, grinding, or any other issues had 200k on the odo and even then, the issues weren’t as bad. The new FL5 has a beefier trans supposedly, hopefully all those issues are gone.
“Fifty eight hundred miles, maybe 5 or 6 gear grinds, that’s not a lot” 😳
it’s a lot!
Consider his reasons for saying that
This works flawless with just adjusting the two nuts on my accord way better shifting brings the clutch up higher tho but small compromise for this smoothness and ur the only one who really described the procedure well thanks again man
That Thumbnail pic is AMAZING! Great shot. Love the content.
Thank ya man!
So i been reading and the one you said its recommends for an automatic transmission.. so i am wondering why you choice that motul mutil ATF instead of the MTF (Aka gear oil)???
I can't believe Honda still haven't fixed this issue they have had the famous 2nd gear grind all the way back since 2001 DC5 type R days. All this time and they can't release a car without it grinding 2nd gear. What a joke. They make one of the best manual feel transmission but that issue just wrecks it all. It shouldn't be up to us to solve it. This is Honda's issue.
Lol, I sometimes use gun oil for other things besides guns. I had done every modification to get rid of that 1-2 gear grind. Hybrid Racing drop in short shifter, AC Delco friction modified trans fluid, later Hybrid Racing shifter bushings, PRL braided stainless steel hydraulic clutch line. I also installed a modified cmc I bought from k20z3allmotor which didn’t fix the grind without doing my last mod. The last mod that seemed to fix it was removing the delay valve including adjusting the engagement point. I don’t even want to visually see how the synchros look after all these grinds since the first day of delivery of taking my Type R home from the dealer. Wish I did the delay valve removal first.
I literally just had my clutch pedal to the floor…and 2nd gear would absolutely not go in. Shifted to 3rd just fine.
Better to just take it easy with the downshifting. There is no reason to bang it in second gear, since the car pull in 3rd gear from about 3,500 rpms. My cars transmission feels like butter. So this guy should get a car with paddle shifters.
Cześć.Mam podobny problem w Honda CR-V 3, jak szybciej wrzucam drugi bieg to chrupanie,najczęściej przy wyjeździe w lewo lub prawo.Wymieniłem olej na Valvoline 75W, jest naprawdę żadki, prawie jak ATF,ma lepkość 33 w 40 stopniach Celsjusza.Jak u Ciebie po tych modyfikacjach i regulacji luzu pompy sprzęgła? Jest dobrze?
My Fk8 (19) didn’t grind but it was crunchy when it’s absolutely cold .. I did synchromesh and cmc adjustment .. mine had a good amount of slack from factory .. I was able to adjust almost a full turn until I got resistance .. I can slam gears with no problems. .
What is cmc adjustment? Like the clutch pedal?
@@TheWetCanadian it's in the video. Look for when he adjusts the plunger
Best fix is don’t drive in comfort mode that’s what causes extra wear on your synchros since you can’t rev match because it does it manually it revs too little in comfort mode and it clunks into gear making them notchy until it wears out
Hi ! Amazing video but I have one question... I adjusted my CMC plunger without adjusting the pedal play. Not every FK8 comes with the same setting I guess so some people may need to add more than 1 full rotation ? I also read on Civicx that the pedal freeplay is not based on preference. There is only one correct position. So i'm kinda lost regarding this :p
Same bro help me out 😂
We’re golden pony boy lol 😂 great 👍🏻 vid man
I removed the clutch delay valve on my 9th gen Si and it immediately solved the grind issues. Similar process to remove it. I've added it to the list of things I hate about Hondas like the rotor screws that just rust on.
Man ef those screws. Put a screw driver on it, hit it with a hammer a few good times and it should get loose no prob with a torque driver. Be sure to press real hard or you risk stripping the screw
Always love seeing your FK8 videos. I had a problem with the second gear grind and I put on the 27WON rear motor mount and it significantly made those shifts better but I do occasionally still get grinds. I will be following your advice, thanks brother!
I had the same issue in my 2008 8th Gen FN2 Type R, in my case it was a finished master cylinder but obviously that isn't the case in the 10th gen
Dude! Thank your for this vid! You really help address and show me what I can do to help my grind issue. Love your channel and you have helped me so much with my fk8 over the last few months.
That's awesome man! Im glad you're enjoying your FK8 man
Yeah totally helps me with the direction I wanna go as well
Thank you for this. I hated googling this problem on my 2018 and not finding anything useful. Will be doing this sometime. Was gonna give up my Type R, but now I think I'm going to keep it because of you. Thanks again!!!
I did the pedal adjust when I first bought my 2019 and I only get grinds when I don't fully depress the pedal. I'm currently at about 20k and things seem to be golden. Thanks for the video and I might do the CDV just to have the immediate clutch engagement.
After all that grinding did you notice any metal in the oil when you changed it? I assume the drain plug is magnetic?
Hey! I was looking for solutions after countless grinds in my 19 R after putting about 10k miles past 5 months with dealer was just trying to pull “we cant do anything about your grinds” and i think cmc adjustment really helped improving the feel of the car! Car used to be very clunky and almost felt like “stalling” first couple gears which made me over think but it literally gotten rid of all the problems I have (for now). I don’t think I will ever do delay valve delete but this is gold. Thank you so much for such valuable information! Enjoy your car!!
Wait doesnt this guy review guns also........?
Yes
What about 2nd gear pop out? Would this still help?
First thing I would do to “fix” it would be to go to Honda!!!!! First and only thing. Did you not get a warranty with your new car that only had 6 miles on it?
Ummm....I'm pretty sure my warranty is voided
Thanks for making this video homie, im out in az too, getting ready for that heat.
Yeah it gets super hot here and I work at a GM dealer and the shop is outside gets stupid hot here
Thank you for this video, I want to try adjusting the clutch pedal 👍😎
Ok i adjusted the pedal stopper one turn. Then did the plunger. Is it ok that i dont have play in the pedal anymore? Thanks. Next step fluid change
Update i still have the play before i feel the real actual pressure of the clutch being pushed in just has no loose pedal play up top anymore.. also i can push the slave in by hand aswell. I read to check that out.
Where you been at mannnnnn
Any new content??
hey buddy i have been following you for quite a while, i started following you for pew pew videos. i have a 20 FK8 and watching this video because i am having the same problem after a few track days. I am also a professional technician and on the power bleeder when you were bleeding the system., buy some dot 3 or 4 brake fluid and fill the power bleeder with the fluid and you don't have to watch the brake fluid level because it will refill as it drains the fluid. I have also found that when bleeding the brake system on our cars they prefer vacuum instead of pressure due to the ABS block. Great video and i would love to se some videos of you tracking the car! Keep up the great work man!
Great video my man!
You probably saved people some mula with this video. HONDA should cut you a check
I have 3rd gear grind
Where's the type R?
I remember having transmission grind on my FG2 SI. I had the clutch changed, as well as the fluid. Apparently, there was a recall on the trans fluid Honda used on the SI at the time. They recommended using the previous year RSX Type S trans fluid if I remember correctly. Also, those wrenches are flare nut wrenches. I’ve used those for fuel fittings ☺️
Adjusting the CMC made such a difference in my car!
Aside from the grind, my car always behaved weirdly, letting off the clutch- almost as if it had an anvil for a flywheel haha.
Seriously, it was always kind of lurching, when shifting and letting off the clutch.
After adjusting the pedal stop and rod, it now behaves like a clutch!
It honestly made me question my skills, which was absolutely disheartening after buying the car...
Great resource for many with same headaches.
Sucks getting this weapon of a car with a huge mark up and having this problem. Usually Honda transmissions are good.
GM Synchromesh fluid , I literally poured it in , backed car out and the difference was incredible in first .10 mile driving out from shop. At time the Midas I worked at was back that road and honestly it's the best pour in service I'll brag on. INCREDIBLE was the actual butter smooth shifts and this was for customers bone stock car. SHE loves the shift now. It is impressive
Just did the plunger and pedal adjustment and complete night and day THANK YOU!!!!
Does the car not come with a warranty? Have the Honda dealership fix your grind....
the only times I ever got grinds was when I pushed the car hard from a launch. I installed the mid motor mount and they were gone. After I installed a short shifter from hybrid racing I got a grind 3 times on the same day just normal driving. I removed the shifter and didn’t get any but I now feel second gear being a little rough. I was going to change my fluid next oil change but I’ll try the adjuster bolt first like you said. Thank you sir. I hope you start posting soon.
Interesting ACdelco works well on CTR. First thing we do on 1LE is dump the Delco for RP or AMS.
3 things i woud suggest, trans fluid, stiffer rear motor mount at least a 72A from hasport or any other equivalent , and delay valve delete on slave or both slave and clutch master cyclinder.
Looking for a shop in the SoCal area that can do this for my 21 CTR….any suggestions?
Which transmission fluid do you recommend Motul or AC Delco?
I will get the AC delco FM since I heard is the best one but I think is about they are similar
Quick question: What year is your Civic? I'm about to buy 2021 and I wonder if it's been fixed by Honda or not.
And thats what you call honda unreliability. I've bought own and worked on Hondas for over 10 years and I still love those cars but time has changed
2015-2021 wrx has a similar issue as well. its the combination of cable linkage shifter, soft rear mounts, and clutch delay valve. hate cable shifters lol. the sti however, has no issue, it has solid selector rods going straight into the transmission like a proper longitudinally mounted trans.
I don’t own a Type R, but I do have a ‘19 Si with similar issues. I bought it with 47k miles and 2nd gear seems to have issues at random times....not usually showing up whether it’s hot or cold or indifferent or anything of the sort. I’ve seen where you can replace the shifter assembly bushings, which I have yet to try. With that though, I had realized my clutch pedal has A LOT of play in it before it actually engages and in watching your video, I’m nearly certain that adjusting the pedal will help a lot more than the bushings. Either way, I appreciate the video! (Hopefully you have more on here of the same sort of content)
I remember the frustration of this from my 2008 Civic Si. I ended up getting rid of it after major transmission issues after 160K miles. Seeing that the Type R still has these shifting issues, I wouldn't want that headache all over again. I really like the car but I may end up looking for something else to buy instead.
Mann Honda are wrong for this not getting it sorted if I was to buy this car it would put me off big time!
Won't you void your 5 year warranty by putting non OEM fluid?
I'm not sure... But I voided the warranty the moment I tuned the car
Nobody cares about warranty lol
Thanks for the super thorough video! I can attest that all of the mods you did are a great idea, I have done them all as well.
Awesome, thank you man!
I dunno i never had any gear grind issues.. just left mine bone stock tho
I find removing the clutch delay valve helps a lot with the gear grinding. Honda MTF seems to hold up longer than AcDelco Synchromesh Friction Modified. All in all, Amsoil Synchromesh MTF got rid of the gear crunches and did last longer than AcDelco SM FM for me.
I have a 2018 si and for my car, it’s not a grind it’s a crunch or a double clunk. Also first gear locks out a lot or goes in half way and pops out. Reverse seems to be hard to find all of the time and it’s very picky about when it’ll go into gear. Third gear would occasionally grind but I found that to sometimes be my fault. Third gear would also lock out like first. My 27won race rear motor mount eliminated the third gear grind/lockout. My Acuity stage 1 shift kit also helped with the second gear double clunk but it’s still there. Reverse is still hard to find too. The first gear lockout is still there as well. It’ll go half way in to the gear then either stay there or it’ll go a little further but not all the way and then pop out when I start driving. Its only a problem when stopped. It’s a pretty common problem for me and can leave me stopped for up to 15 seconds when the light turns green. My friend has a 2019 type r and his car has the same first gear problem and he has an Acuity short shifter with linkage bushings. First gear would lock out. I’ve even experienced it when testing his short shifter.
2 years later...any fix? I have 2019 si and same issues literally. Adjusted the clutch pedal but still can't find the correct position to eliminate the grind
@@ivangalvan2760 I got a full acuity short shifter 2 years ago and haven’t had any issues since
@@inconspicuous_ox no way dude replied. Legend 😅 thanks bro that might be my next mod. Not sure if I can install myself tho
I did the install with a friend and I installed one by myself, it doesn’t hurt to have another set of hands but it’s not entirely necessary. It’s my favorite mod I’ve ever done on the car and nearly I’m fbo at this point
Pinching brake hose will damage hose would not recommend
I prefer DOT 4. DOT 3 gets hot real quick
To help people find them easier. Those funky box wrenches are Flare Nut Wrenches. Also a 100% must for brake lines. And for the snap rings. Snap ring pliers. They have sets with different tip sizes for small snap rings.
Just bought a new 21 type r. Will check the cmc. Thanks
Nice move with the glove and rubber band
Gonna do what ya said and get that valve out also getting the shifter mods you mentioned from another video got the bushings on the way already. And also helped me decide on side markers. That’s for the great vids and detailed explanations
Im sorry 200 miles isnt a road trip...? Lol
I wish those Phillips head screws on the engine under cover, would be available in a Allen hex head
I also fix mine conplete too..did the cnc, better but that didn't fix it completely, did amsoil, switch to gm Synchromesh, stopped from grindbut couldnt shift hard, that didn't completely fix it, then I use hondata, that completely fix it after..now I drive as hard as I want with no grind or rubbing feel
How'd the hondata fix it? Rev match fix?
ive been using amsoil M/T 75-90 and ive never had a random grind thank god
I always see your videos and I came across this product. Might help with your 0-60 time. Injen x-pedal pro. Supposed to give you a quicker reaction time.
Itd be really funny if all his grinds were actually from not putting clutch all the way down .... Like I know he says he wasn't doing it.... But how will we really know
You can easily do a quick Google search, and find this to be an extremely common issue
One thing I’ve noticed after also owning an 8th gen si is that most people think they have a solution for gear grinds. I’m not sure if each car is just different or if people get some placebo when the grind ‘goes away.’ I hope it works for you, and I’ll have to try some of this stuff if mine ever grinds.
Clutch pedal adjustment fixed mine
I recommend putting 2.5quarts
I have only gotten a grind 2 times in 4100 miles... Both times it was "my fault" , power shifting into 2nd at redline. I am going to switch Redline mt90 fluid when i do first oil change. Also got rear mount going in when i do that... But after seeing this video, I'll go ahead and also adjust that pedal and see. Thanks for the info.
Most of the Time the grinding into 2nd gear comes from shifting too early into 2nd before You fully have the foot down all the way on the clutch or lifting the clutch too early. It happened during the early stages when I first drove my Integra Type R DC5. After You practiced enough, it doesn't grind anymore for Me, only once in a long while.
Most of the time it is the human error more than the Mechanical error. Honda Type R's including the S2000 have had the Best Manual Shifting Gearboxes in the Market for Front Wheel Drives for a Long Time. You hardly hear about having such grinding problems about these cars in Japan and other Asian markets.
A clutch delay valve on a type r is funny to me it’s a sports car not a economy car. But now I’m looking to see if my 10th Gen si has it probably does never knew about this.
I just traded my 2019 Si for a Type R and the Si does have one as well
I have a 21 CRT and I had 5th gear grind like 2 so far when I’m stepping on it
I hate to tell you but nothing externally will fix it, it's gonna take a second gear synchro replacement just like all past Honda transmission 2 or 3rd gear grinds
I agree... I'll replace the synchros when it absolutely needs it
Very good video. Extremely informative. Thank you.
I love that you put every link possible in the description. I respect that you put amazon links for parts I did not know were on ebay and amazon, I wouldve went and spent the extra money from a tuner website like a dummy.
And also, what exact intercooler did you buy? Ebay link just leads to all of the intercoolers and I wouldnt wanna buy the wrong one
Those are flair nut wrenches
jeez dude, i swear youve had more grinds than anybody i know.
What changed, is your clutch itself wore a little bit.
Line wrenches. Ive heard people call em “brake line wrenches” as well
Backing the pedal bolt out and then adjusting the plunger did not worn for me. It made a lot more resistance going into gear. I ended up going a full turn and a half in with the pedal bolt and then adjusting the plunger. 2nd still grinds.
Next step would be getting a Hasport 62A or 70A Motormount
Hey brotha great vids i love them i just wanted to get your input on BOV for the type r i see you don’t have one and i see other people don’t and other people do what’s your opinion on the matter
It is fine to run a bov as long as u the car is tuned for it...I am running a hks bov on my fk8 and have no issues at all
What low profile ramp do you use?
Get some snap ring pliers.
Get snap ring pliers.
Where you from?
Thanks for this video
Very informative, thanks