Відео

VW sensors are tricky. Once you flip the securing tab up, you have to *push* then pull the sensor for it to come off. Good luck and send a reply if this helps.

Thanks for mentioning, it's not something I was aware of. I looked it up only quickly and it's an interesting concept that I'll look into more. I did check Audi, Toyota and Ford OEM oil bottles along with Mobil-1 and none of the bottles mention shaking before using.

I actually don't know much about the 2.9--and didn't know it used the same engine code. I just looked it up. 8 Quarts of oil in an RS5, that is incredible!

That's really clever! Thanks so much for taking the time to share your insight.

You got it. Appreciate the feedback and request! I actually have the sparkplugs for the SQ5 ready to go, I just have to find time after the holidays to film and edit. Brake bleed and engine/cabin air filters are the other two videos I have parts for already in the queue.

Yes, it's hard to argue with that reasoning. Appreciate you taking the time to watch and share!

🤝

Just like your comment! Thank you for the support.

Hope your holidays are going great! My rule of thumb is if I didn't do the last oil change on the car, I will replace it. But if it's my own car, I tend to change the washer every other time. But I will check to make sure the washer isn't too deformed. If it's not looking fresh, I replace it. I think it's cheaper to replace a washer than have to do another oil change to fix a leaky washer. Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment.

Coincidentally, I just released an oil change guide for an SQ5 and it sounds like it lines up with what your experience on a 3.0T Q7 is like. ua-cam.com/video/p30OK0QfdRI/v-deo.html Curious for your confirmation. Also, I hope your holidays are going great. Thanks so much for taking the time to watch and comment.

Hi, did you get the S1 Pros I have updated in the description? They are a little more shallow. It might be worth returning and trying. Here's a quick video I did a couple days ago comparing the S1 Pros to the S2s I have in this video: ua-cam.com/video/34q77vyBch4/v-deo.html

@ damn nah I bought s6

No, THANKS TO YOU for watching!

Appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment! Toyota OEM filters are made by Denso and have a reputation for being very good. More important than oil choice is the change interval and on my personal cars I change way less than 5k miles. More affordable oil changed more frequently is arguably better than good oil changed at the same frequency since you're not getting the value of the additives unless you're pushing miles on the better oil.

You are the second person to leave a comment about this. I find it interesting but it seems backward at least on our A4. The drain plug is on the back of the oil pan, so if you lift the back of the car up, you are tiling the drain higher than the rest of the oil pan. It would make more sense to lift the left side of the car up to pool the oil toward the drain outlet.

I used a 1.5 ton jack so I think you'll be okay. The only thing I can't say for sure is if the trolley jack will give you enough clearance to get underneath. Depends on how fit you are! I only jacked up one side of the car and put a single jack stand down. More importantly, make sure you have wheel chocks blocking off the rear wheels if your driveway is on an incline. Don't assume the parking brake and having the car in gear will keep it from rolling. Best of luck, let me know how it goes.

Generally agree but with tools like the Gen 3 M12 Stubby now available and having crazy breakaway torque, you could almost get away with just using 3/8 on everything, especially if you're a DIYer and only own a sedan or small SUVs. Appreciate the comment and sharing your thoughts!

Not if you got the new m12 stubby that thing got some tq

Amen to that like impact socket are for power tools and chrome for hand tools

Appreciate the comment! Let me know how it went.

@mldiy it went great, only I used one of those drain canisters and the drain was too small to deal with the massive stream of oil. I underestimated the pressure. It's just way more to deal with than on my tiny Kei truck.

I really appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment, it means a lot! I have a whole playlist of DIY guides for the Terrain, linking that here if you're interested: ua-cam.com/video/8zQSz-O3nKo/v-deo.html Thanks again!

I really appreciate the comment. I thought I could have done more, so I made a follow up video too to show how to drain oil the more standard way too: ua-cam.com/video/lWlkNein0LQ/v-deo.html Thanks again for spending your valuable time watching my videos!

Someone else in comments mentioned this too. My video also shows taking off the whole wheel liner, but you can probably get access just by removing the fasteners on the front half.

Yes, great callout. It was poor sequencing as it was my first time filming, but I did check the dipstick again after coming off ramps.

No problem man. We appreciate you.

being mad at other peoples success and preferences in 2024 is craaaazy 💀

I own both, you can check out my Toyota DIY guides on my channel. Let me know what you think.

@@pr1ze301 being mad is saying a simple fact? Lol. Ok the sun is hot, does that comment make me angry?

@@salromeri192 ur comment was niggatively charged and i dont like that energy✨

Good to know, thanks for sharing!

That's really cool, I did not know about this. I'm going to try it asap. Thanks so much for sharing!

@mldiy Edit: If you have a newer Audi you might have to press and hold down the lever. Another option is the car menu in you infotainment. Greetings from Germany 😁

Nice! Good to know, thanks for sharing.

I appreciate the kind words and I'm so glad you found the video helpful. Thank you so much for the support.

You mean with the clear flood mode? @MrSubaru1387 also recommends doing this, so who am I to argue! Mostly if you rebuilt the head or something to ensure oil makes it way to those replaced parts, but yes, will prime a filter too. Thanks for taking the time to comment and share your knowledge.

I still prefill the oil filter anyway to absorb the new oil which barely leaks out because of the anti drain valve.

Thanks! It's not as bad as the angle makes it seem, for what it's worth. Appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment!

Good thought! The drain plug hole is on the back of the pan and points toward the passenger, so lifting just the drivers front would maybe give you the best draining angle. Definitely the front being higher will be better than the rear though.

@@mldiybut I mean to extracting as much as you can with the pump, so the drain plug location doesn’t matter is it? I suppose that the pump tube enter in the front of the deposit, so lifting the rear could help. I read it somewhere and it makes sense.

@@sagutxo82 I see what your saying and sure, maybe it does get a little more oil! It's worth trying. Let me know how it goes for you. Just a reminder that the whole point of the video is that since extraction is so much faster, that extra bit of oil may not be worth trying to get out by either the drain pan or even strategically leveling the car with a jack/ramps.

Hi Joe, your comment is showing you as someone who is considerate to others, so happy to see the question. Unless you messed with the headlights before or were in an accident, my first suggestion would be to confirm if it's actually aiming high. You'll see at 5:05 in the video where I have the headlights on against the garage door. You can do something similar to roughly confirm that the headlights are aimed down. If you really need to adjust the headlight, there is a plastic cover that is marked as "UD" (and one for RL). That plastic piece just pops off and there's a little spindle wheel you can turn with a flathead screwdriver. You'll still need to aim it against a wall to do the adjustment, so I'd start with just confirming before messing with anything. I hope this helps and I hope you enjoy your new headlight bulbs too!

They should fit. I already let them know their Amazon listing is saying it doesn't fit certain cars when it does. For the flicker issue, I didn't observe that on the Highlander. If both sides are flickering, it might be an issue with the bulbs. If it's only one side, it might just be an issue with the connection. Hard to diagnose remotely but I hope this helps you.

That's really interesting to hear. I'm going to see if there's any TSBs recommending a heavier weight, especially if a dealership updated the sticker. Thanks so much for sharing and I hope you enjoyed the video!

Much appreciated! I am so glad you found the video helpful. Thank you for the kind gesture, and if you are based in the USA like me, I hope you had a fantastic Thanksgiving weekend!

For sure. I've done guides with just a jack and with ramps too. Not only is changing oil hard with just ramps, imagine filming underneath a Japanese car that's only lifted up half a foot on ramps. 😬I've learned my lesson and only use ramps for SUVs. For sedans, I tend to prefer a 3-ton jack. I think it gives more height than a ramp.

Glad you liked the video. For oil flushes, they work but I don't see the point. Changing your oil on a faster interval is likely just as beneficial. But maybe on an older car to flush it once every 100k miles or something. Thanks again for your time watching and commenting!

I haven't used those but one thing to be mindful of is that the bulbs may be longer than the ones I used in the video. The dust cap does limit your choices. In terms of brightness, in my opinion there's no wrong answer these days since this tech has been out for a while. You are basically choosing form factor since lumen claims are all over the place and not reliable. Any bulb you buy is likely going to feel great, especially compared to a halogen. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment!

Respectfully disagree. This video taught me that the trade off in time for doing an oil change the traditional way is not worth it. Warming up the oil also suspends contaminants more completely. Warm oil also settles back to the pan faster since it's less viscous. All your cold oil settled when the oil was hot. I'm pretty confident that if I waited another 15 min before extracting that little bit of oil that settled before draining would not have been there. And either way, you can never fully drain the oil out of an engine, that's why most manuals have a service fill vs dry fill specification that is about a quart more. But the best part about working on your own car is getting to do what you think is right, so you do you! Thank you for the comment.

It has two clamps on either side and then in the middle it slides into a metal tab. If you can't spin the purge valve 360 my guess would be it's still in the tab. Spinning it should break it free from the hoses. And use some dielectric grease when putting the new one back on to avoid it getting stuck in a hose the next time around. Hope this helps, good luck.

Yes, I agree it can be done without removing anything. In my case some of the need was so I had room to film. Good comment, I'll pin so others can see it and decide on the option. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment!