Відео

Hope it helped get the job done. Comments like your motivate me to keep making more guides. Much appreciated!

Glad it was helpful, thanks for the comment too!

I ended up keeping the GW set, but actually recently rebought the Milwaukee set during clearance sales. So I definitely followed your advice!

For what it's worth, I went to give the toolboxes a look and the gearwrench handle is metal. At least on my husky it's molded plastic, so the gearwrench one should hold up just as well as it, if not better. They both look like they have similar metal clasps holding the handle to the lid and that actually feels like it would break first. If you have a harbor freight near you, there is a Yukon one that you can at least check out in person to see if it works for you. And lastly, it's probably not worth the cost in shipping but if for some reason you are near the SF bay area and just want another Husky toolbox, I'm happy to figure out how to give mine. Mine is just sitting around and I don't use it much. Good luck and thanks so much for taking the time to comment.

I do have a couple videos that show how to remove, but I edited them to be pretty fast. Here's one showing a typical panel clip being removed: ua-cam.com/video/PmbklyzWxKA/v-deo.html Your best bet is to invest in a trim panel removal tool, both plastic or metal will work. They are kind of like a pronged pry bar and gives you leverage without damaging the clip. You basically want to pull the inside part up and that will unlock it. Usually you can just pull it out with your fingers, otherwise you slide the trim tool underneath the whole thing and pop it out. I know a comment isn't the most helpful way of conveying information, but I hope I at least pointed you in the right direction. Please do reply if it helps!

If it's your first time changing the oil, I would change the washer since you don't know how many times that washer has been re-used and if the previous changer over-tightened the bolt (e.g. squeezed the washer too much). After that, if you are the one tightening it to spec, you can do it every other oil change or even a couple changes before swapping.

The 5w-20 is what the factory service information recommends. But, if it's ILSAC GF-6A (API Starburst logo) standard, it's probably safe. I don't think any cars in this generation are still under factory warranty, which would be the only reason to use 5w-20. The other argument is that the 5w-20 has a slightly higher viscosity on startup, so it protects your engine better during warmup.

I really appreciate that insight and I was leaning toward doing something like that anyway. You convinced me to build that into the maintenance routine for the car. Thanks again for watching and commenting.

Thanks! I'll look into that and see if I can make it happen. I generally tend to only make videos when the car actually needs the work so it might be a while.

Cheers, glad you found it helpful!

Glad you liked it!

I'm glad you found it useful. Your comment is much appreciated!

So which one do you like more? I appreciate you commenting on my two year old video. Feels good that people are still finding it.

Glad you brought it up and hope others see this so they can find it if they want one. I know they exist but I personally haven't found a reason to buy one. The car (so far) doesn't seem to leak or burn oil and I put so little miles on the car that I just end up changing the oil on an annual interval. I have my extraction container marked for the capacity of the car and I use that to double check that the car has the same oil that went in. For sure I'd have one if I were tuning the car or driving it to its full potential. Thank you again for the comment!

I'd love to know what you did but your comment just reinforces my point that extraction is just as good as the traditional way of changing oil. 👍

Cheers to you too, comments like your really keep me motivated. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment!

I believe on the 1st gen Q7 the oil filter is accessed at the bottom and is near the oil drain. Since you're down there anyway to remove the filter and still have to remove underbody panels (maybe), extraction isn't really saving you any time. So if you don't already own a fluid extractor, I'd say don't bother and just do it the traditional way.

@ thanks a lot for that info I don’t have the 1st generation yet but this way you changed the oil looked so easy. I was hoping I could do it the same way

Nice! Good to know and I can see how that would work perfectly. Thank you for sharing.

I think everyone has more miles than me. I can't believe this car only averaged like 5,500 miles a year.

To be fair to Gearwrench, it was my own fault for not lining up the ball detent to the notch on the socket to hold it in place. I don't recall if the Milwaukee set needed to be lined up to stay on or if its a snugger fit. I'll have to go to the garage in check. But yes, if one is busy and can't always take the time to line things up, it's something to consider between the sets.

Are you requesting a pcv valve guide or did you somehow diagnose that this car has a bad pcv valve based on the video? 😅

@@MetaloopDIY this is the most thorough oil change video I think I have ever seen. I would love to see a pcv valve video, I think it would help a lot of people. I know so many people with Subarus that have the mysterious oil loss and yet no one ever thinks to change the PCV valve. At 120K miles, my daughters Outback started "losing" a quart every 1000 miles and I changed the pcv valve and now all is back to good. The PCV was locked up tight.

@@josephlhunt9271 I really appreciate the feedback and this is a good tip. Thanks for sharing your wisdom. I'll see what I can do!

Unfortunately I don't, but my captions in the short are the main things of note. Everything else is a matter of patiently finding all the fasteners and clips. if you are looking to work on the heater core, search heater core removal for S40 or V50, you'll find some good vids on UA-cam. Best of luck!

@@MetaloopDIY Thank you very much. I just want to remove the airbag computer I will install the software

Appreciate you watching and hope this helps with your oil change!

I hope it was helpful, appreciate the comment.

Appreciate that! Thanks for watching!

​@@MetaloopDIYJust finished helping my son complete his first oil change. This tutorial was very helpful.

@@rzorrok1 May be helpful down the line, here's another guide I did for other general maintenance things on the Passat: ua-cam.com/video/WP38zKrSjQI/v-deo.html

According to service information: key on, engine off, then press the brake pedal 3 times within 10 seconds, then key off and back on to start the car. I haven't done it myself so I am not sure if you need to hold the brake the whole time on the 3rd press or not. Give both ways a try. For the 5.7L Hemi it's 7 quarts of 5w-20 and the drain bolt torque is 25 ft-lbs. If you have another model, you are on your own. 😂 Subscribe if this was helpful. 👍

I can only speak for the Sealight LEDs I used in this video (and the follow up video I did linked in the description). The dust caps being off probably help ventilate the LEDs better, but you will be introducing water and dust into the headlight fixture. My personal opinion: it's cheaper to replace the LED than the whole headlight assembly, so I'd rather get an LED that lets me put the dust cap back on even if the ventilation for the LED is not ideal.

Good luck with the replacement this weekend! I'd love to hear how it goes when you're done.

Awesome, thanks so much for the feedback and taking the time to watch! Ramps are definitely the way to go. If you didn't see it, I have a video showing spark plugs and air filters too: ua-cam.com/video/O0eUbJHJ9Nw/v-deo.html you'll see the oil change was originally part of this 60k service. Let me know if it ends up being helpful!

@mldiy Hello there! Thank You for pointing those other videos out. I will definitely check it out. Keep up the good work.👍 Da P8NTRMAN 🎨

Appreciate you watching! Hope this was helpful for your oil change.

I misquoted the price in my video and tried to correct it in the video description. It is actually about a dollar per washer (or in my case, like 9 dollars for a ten-pack(, so your dealer is charging you fairly in this case. I've seen it as high as 2 dollars in some dealership parts departments!

Thank you, appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment!

I almost didn't believe you but I looked it up and it is true! Probably the best reason to get a Q3, well, besides the fact that we can't get an A3 hatch in the US anymore. Thanks so much for sharing that tidbit.

Woah, thanks for sharing your story and sorry to hear it wasn't smooth. Do you mean you replaced the oil filter housing with a metal one? They do make OEM versions of those and yes I would definitely upgrade to a metal one if the housing breaks. It sounds like the oil housing was so tight that when you removed it, you ended up compromising the housing with either a small crack or deforming it just enough so that it doesn't seal well. Not saying it is your fault, whoever did your last oil change put you in a bad situation. Glad it's all done though and you even got to do an upgrade! Again, really appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment. Happy New Year!

Happy New Year! Yes, this video works for the LE as well. I just missed that trim level in my description but will update now. Let me know how it goes and if the video helped you with your oil change.

@@MetaloopDIY Thank you for the fast response. I found the video excellent and worth the 7.26 minutes. Thanks.

For 2017's you can use 5w-40 too as long as the oil meets VW 502.00 standards. Generally you want to the thinnest oil you can get away with, so unless you live in a hot climate or track your car, you can consider 5w-30. Or just get whatever is cheaper!

@@MetaloopDIY Using cheap oil is to play russian rulette with the Audi engines. The way pistons are designed in the cars is really picky about the oil you should use. But yes, cold start viscosity is dependent on the climate of your area. Hot viscosity dependent on the wear of piston rings.

@@samiramo7252 For sure, I didn't mean cheaper oil, I meant cheaper between 5w-40 or 5w-30, sometimes both meet VW 502.00 standards, but one is easier to find and potentially less expensive. Really depends on one's area and what specialty stores are near them.

I'm just now responding to a comment you posted last year! Appreciate the point of feedback. Seems to be working out and I guess as good a way of using up the oil if you don't want to save a half quart to top off later. It's probably fairly safe as long as you aren't taking high speed turns or going up or down steep inclines. At some point too much oil means the crankshaft can start frothing up the oil. Hard to say if .6 of a quart extra will hit those limits, but it is almost 15% more oil than you need. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.

VW sensors are tricky. Once you flip the securing tab up, you have to *push* then pull the sensor for it to come off. Good luck and send a reply if this helps.

@@MetaloopDIY the 2010 passat has a hose that somehow shrunk its way around the barbed fitting on the evap purge valve. any recommendations on removing it?

@@keithyu3919 If you have something like wd-40 silicone spray (note, not regular wd-40, silicone specifically since it doesn't degrade rubber), give that a little spray and then try twisting the hose a little to work it in. Water with dish wash soap would work too. I find with all hoses, twisting to break it loose works better than pulling. Last resort is to get a 90 deg pick and carefully work it around the hose to break it loose. Hope this helps, please update depending on how it goes.

Thanks for mentioning, it's not something I was aware of. I looked it up only quickly and it's an interesting concept that I'll look into more. I did check Audi, Toyota and Ford OEM oil bottles along with Mobil-1 and none of the bottles mention shaking before using.

I actually don't know much about the 2.9--and didn't know it used the same engine code. I just looked it up. 8 Quarts of oil in an RS5, that is incredible!

@ it’s basically the same engine, with 2 turbochargers

That's really clever! Thanks so much for taking the time to share your insight.

You got it. Appreciate the feedback and request! I actually have the sparkplugs for the SQ5 ready to go, I just have to find time after the holidays to film and edit. Brake bleed and engine/cabin air filters are the other two videos I have parts for already in the queue.

@@MetaloopDIY Subscribed in hopes of a spark plug video in the future

@@EvanGunStuff You got it. You can call me out if you don't see one by Feb. 🫡

Yes, it's hard to argue with that reasoning. Appreciate you taking the time to watch and share!