Youre right. I usually use an old crank gear to center it and slide it on.. I've never done the gauge and never had an oil pump failure or even low oil pressure issue.
Crow Cams double roller kit comes with "button" head Allen key bolts, so that part of the clearance should be OK when I put mine together. Thanks for the video and info.
HA! Nice rant. I've used several different double roller gear sets, and I've found the Nornda Automotive the best by far. After 35k miles no slack in the chain what so ever. I can't say the same for other manufacturers that I've used. Anyway. I've had clearance issues where a bolt change, "button head" bolts vs. counter sunk, was the fix, but I recently had a problem with oil pump front cover reaching out to hit the cover where the seal sits.... I guess you got this. Whatever you do.....NEVER shim the pump gears when installing the oil pump!!!!!
I discovered the same as you, but ground the heads of my bolts, and it worked fine. Yours is a better solution though. But I ran into another problem you didn't have. I see from your video, your oil pump cover appears to be flat. Mine is a stock pump, and it has two ribs on the cover. That is the next thing to hit. It hits the surface just behind the balancer seal. Haven't solved the problem yet. Going to pull the oil pump cover off, and see if I can remove a portion of that rib, and then may have to remove a little bit of the flange on the timing gear cover. Or may opt to put a Melling pump if I confirm it has a flat cover. M295HD
I put my 2" x 72" belt grinder to work and flattened out the protrusion. I used a Summit two piece front cover on this build and had the same clearance issue. I wasn't sure if it was a Summit part problem or if the OEM cover had this issue also. Good to know.
Very good! I have searched for hours trying to find somebody who has done this before on UA-cam. No one clarifies the installation of double roller timing sets for these engines, yet they are available practically anywhere you can buy engine parts. I have ordered a special 2-piece timing cover just for this but pissed me off to find out it won't be here for months! Thank you sir for your help, I can now cancel my order. Do you know what grade of bolts you used on the pump?
I followed this method, and just ground down to heads of my stock bolts, and fits perfectly. Wouldn't never figured it out with this video.. Great job.
@@jameswiz Update: using countersunk or (tapered) bolts is not a good idea. GM calls for 18 ft-lb on the pump bolts. Tapered bolts cracked my pump housing. Time for a new pump. Going with your "machined" stock bolt idea.
So using the flat head bolts did fix that issue, however I ran into another. The oil pickup then hit the cover, as it too needed moved forward. I used blue machinst dye on the cover and a Dremel with burr bit to remove a little material. Went together like a dream after. I will also add, I purchased and added the alum plate that allows for the 2nd bolt on the pickup. That part also required me to clearance it, as well as modify the "part at the end of the stock pickup tube that keeps the hold down bracket from sliding back" by also adding some clearance there. Without that mod, you maybe fine with just shorter bolt heads.. I'd imagine, you could just grind down the top of the stock bolt head and be fine.. however the added heat from grinding may change the temper of the bolt so I did not want to take that chance and just bought countersunk bolts which have a much much flatter and shorter head... As for anybody who reads this reply and says about shimming the oil pump, there is a video that shows the entire reassembly of an LS from general motors, and they do not use any type of tool to align the oil pump when putting the motor back together. Plus I contacted melling and asked them if there was any special procedure to shim the oil pump and they told me as per factory specs there is not.. so I'm assuming by using countersunk heads, I'm making this oil pump dead center of all the holes that are drilled, which if they are machined off the crankshaft centerline, then my oil pump should be "in theory" dead on where it needs to be anyway.
Just an update... It's now July 22nd 2022... My motor starts, Runs GREAT, and carries 80psi of oil Pressure HOT at idle and at 5k RPM, showing the pressure relief spring is working perfectly. No noises from anywhere once warm and makes some of the best exhaust noise I've ever heard!!! Video of the sounds to follow soon!!! L&S!!!!
@@dr.noitall9887 just to piggy back off your comment even with the single bolt style tube it doesn’t fit. Great video though! I’m gonna drill into my cover cause I’m a cheap bitch lol
Youre right. I usually use an old crank gear to center it and slide it on.. I've never done the gauge and never had an oil pump failure or even low oil pressure issue.
Crow Cams double roller kit comes with "button" head Allen key bolts, so that part of the clearance should be OK when I put mine together. Thanks for the video and info.
Appreciate it.
I love his brutal honesty
Please sub
So sub please
I just used flush Alan key bolts and no fabbing needed😊
HA! Nice rant. I've used several different double roller gear sets, and I've found the Nornda Automotive the best by far. After 35k miles no slack in the chain what so ever. I can't say the same for other manufacturers that I've used.
Anyway. I've had clearance issues where a bolt change, "button head" bolts vs. counter sunk, was the fix, but I recently had a problem with oil pump front cover reaching out to hit the cover where the seal sits....
I guess you got this. Whatever you do.....NEVER shim the pump gears when installing the oil pump!!!!!
I feel "GOD DAMN" inspired after seeing this video!!! lol
Update on the timing cover ?
I discovered the same as you, but ground the heads of my bolts, and it worked fine. Yours is a better solution though. But I ran into another problem you didn't have. I see from your video, your oil pump cover appears to be flat. Mine is a stock pump, and it has two ribs on the cover. That is the next thing to hit. It hits the surface just behind the balancer seal. Haven't solved the problem yet. Going to pull the oil pump cover off, and see if I can remove a portion of that rib, and then may have to remove a little bit of the flange on the timing gear cover. Or may opt to put a Melling pump if I confirm it has a flat cover. M295HD
I put my 2" x 72" belt grinder to work and flattened out the protrusion. I used a Summit two piece front cover on this build and had the same clearance issue. I wasn't sure if it was a Summit part problem or if the OEM cover had this issue also. Good to know.
Clearance or just don't make power!!! MAKE IT FIT BRO°° NAME OF THE Go-Fast-Game!!! Subscribe plz.
Only 62 subs. Guys. please subscribe.. once i get to 1000 subs your views will help me make some money off these vids and furure vids.
Very good! I have searched for hours trying to find somebody who has done this before on UA-cam. No one clarifies the installation of double roller timing sets for these engines, yet they are available practically anywhere you can buy engine parts. I have ordered a special 2-piece timing cover just for this but pissed me off to find out it won't be here for months! Thank you sir for your help, I can now cancel my order. Do you know what grade of bolts you used on the pump?
I followed this method, and just ground down to heads of my stock bolts, and fits perfectly. Wouldn't never figured it out with this video.. Great job.
@@jameswiz Update: using countersunk or (tapered) bolts is not a good idea. GM calls for 18 ft-lb on the pump bolts. Tapered bolts cracked my pump housing. Time for a new pump. Going with your "machined" stock bolt idea.
Please sub. I don't Launch many new videos, but tried to build a channel. Please sun. Tjx
So did changing the oil pump bolts do the trick?
So using the flat head bolts did fix that issue, however I ran into another. The oil pickup then hit the cover, as it too needed moved forward. I used blue machinst dye on the cover and a Dremel with burr bit to remove a little material. Went together like a dream after.
I will also add, I purchased and added the alum plate that allows for the 2nd bolt on the pickup. That part also required me to clearance it, as well as modify the "part at the end of the stock pickup tube that keeps the hold down bracket from sliding back" by also adding some clearance there. Without that mod, you maybe fine with just shorter bolt heads..
I'd imagine, you could just grind down the top of the stock bolt head and be fine.. however the added heat from grinding may change the temper of the bolt so I did not want to take that chance and just bought countersunk bolts which have a much much flatter and shorter head...
As for anybody who reads this reply and says about shimming the oil pump, there is a video that shows the entire reassembly of an LS from general motors, and they do not use any type of tool to align the oil pump when putting the motor back together. Plus I contacted melling and asked them if there was any special procedure to shim the oil pump and they told me as per factory specs there is not.. so I'm assuming by using countersunk heads, I'm making this oil pump dead center of all the holes that are drilled, which if they are machined off the crankshaft centerline, then my oil pump should be "in theory" dead on where it needs to be anyway.
Just an update... It's now July 22nd 2022... My motor starts, Runs GREAT, and carries 80psi of oil Pressure HOT at idle and at 5k RPM, showing the pressure relief spring is working perfectly. No noises from anywhere once warm and makes some of the best exhaust noise I've ever heard!!! Video of the sounds to follow soon!!! L&S!!!!
@@dr.noitall9887 just to piggy back off your comment even with the single bolt style tube it doesn’t fit. Great video though! I’m gonna drill into my cover cause I’m a cheap bitch lol
Imy valve cover is STOCK!!!