Melling doesn't even show this in their install video... i offer Warranties with my engines. Ive had an average of 2 out of 20 ruin a crank in break in. I couldnt understand why. But i started doing this and i havent had a claim since.... i been looking for this video that taught me this, for months. thank you
This is the same technique I used on my 2005 5.3 with a new Melling M295HV pump. I could only get 0.0015" feelers into it though --- but it got centered just like yours. Thanks for making me feel good about doing this pump.
Finally a video that shows the proper install of a LS oil pump! it is refreshing to find a youtube HOW TO video from someone that knows HOW TO! Thanks so much!
@@Utubegofukurself Did Melling design the LS engine? Did Melling design the LS oil pump? No they just copy OEM parts and sell them for a profit! I been building LS engines since 1997 and the LS did not appear in anything but a vette until 98. That tell ya anything? Does the fact that gears in a diff are set up with a certain clearance just like a LS pump, That tell you anything? Melling is doing the same thing in a less accurate manner lol, Melling just doesn't want idiots taking there pumps apart and *u*king them up and sending them back lol! So why does all the performance parts stores sell a Butler, Sac City, ICT or other LS oil pump alignment kit consisting of over priced feeler gauges? ua-cam.com/video/DzUy1RdOx50/v-deo.html
I've installed thousands of these oil pumps over the years and have never done this or heard of this and have never had Any failures or low oil pressure do to pump failure
wow i’m actually really glad I stumbled upon this video, i’m pretty new to LS engines and i’m doing an oil pump on my truck here shortly and this popped up on my suggested. thanks 👍
I did slap it on my first ls engine. Why? Because my 2000 factory shop manual made no mention of this!!! I'd bet money that the newer editions do. Remember, back in 2000, these engines and manuals were only in their 4th year of production, and new, better methods get discovered over time......
Awesome explanation. I’ve always done this. But i like your method better, by removing the shims. When you torque down the cover, there’s usually two of the bolt holes that have flattened edges, making them look slotted. I believe they are there to center the cover and should be the first two to install and snug down.
I installed the same pump on a build I did 2 years ago and just bolted it on. Melling told me there was sacrificial rings in the pump to center it, I didn't even torque the cover and after torqueing the mounting bolts there was no play which made me a little uneasy but no problems so far. I have used a similar method with GM pumps just centering the ring, I was glad to see that is how you did it. Thanks.
melling instructions in the box mentioned none of this, i just sent her down and been great pressure for years. technically all it should change is the ratio of compression because it floats offset anyway. if it was so important there would be dowels for the oil pump
because the pump manufacturers (melling) void your warranty if you remove the front cover. Also if it was so crucial, GM service would have a procedure for centering the pump. They don't.
@ Kyle Allen On my LS1 I installed a new Melling oil pump by priming the oil pump before I installed onto the crankshaft. Good oil pressure to this day.
I'd say that it IS the most important component!!! Without it, you could dump a $100,000 into your engine, and it wouldn't run for more than several seconds before it took itself back apart again!!
This video is perfect. Only thing I would ask, and I know it’s weird, is how to install an oil pump on an ls while the engine is still in a car or truck. I’m looking to do a cam and pump upgrade.
@@express9387 They are just .002” shims you get in a set of automotive feeler gauges. Get two sets and remove them from the assembly. Replace them when you’re done.
Doing it right now I got extendable magnet and zip tied a bigger one to it slid it from driver side under crank in case it fell n pan and it did but bigger magnet pulled it to it lay a rag in the pan first its a Mf till I got magnet
Melling instructions are to install pump finger right. Then rotate the crank 360 degrees. Next torque pump to 18 ft/lbs and you're done. That centers that gear. Could they be wrong?
Correct b/c this will automatically push out the gears to its proper spacing and youre done. The reasoning behind this is that once it’s ☝️ tighten, the 360 rotation of the crank will set the center spacing perfectly. New mechanic vs “old school”. If you bring this into a mechanics bay - they don’t have two feeler gauges handy - plus they don’t use them anyways unless it’s a rebuild shop etc.
Sorry to disappoint you guys but you can not always make it that simple. What Melling is telling you is that for a "stock" application you can get away with simply rotating the engine 360, and torque to spec. However, for kustom builds, generating generous power, "while changing out the stock spring to the COPO spring", just as this video is stating that this in fact is the application, you must shim the outer gear, utilizing .002 gauge then torque to spec. If you dont, the pump will fail. I have the destroyed pump and timing cover to prove it. You will only make that mistake once! I have a good deal of engine building experience and by far this is the most comprehensive video I have come across.
The backlash is automatically adjusted when rotating the crankshaft a couple times then torque 4 bolts, according to milling. Why would you do this procedure, is there a real benefit?
question do ya have a video or make one on replacing a harmonic balancer on both the 5.3L & 8.1L '99-06' GM truck engines using the manufactures torque specs. would appreciate it sir!!
What I was looking for. Putting in a Melling HV pump soon. THANKS! Also remember to prime the pump as well. Update- tried to remove the cover on my new melling pump with a t30 bit.... second bolt head stripped. Wtf! Can't shim now.
@@1bad69xss4 Awesome, thanks for the info. I installed mine without shimming and it's still holding up and performing great after a few months of use. Glad i did it. Oil pressure is in a healthy range at idle now.
uhhh... You know the crank moves around right? Do you canter the crank before centering the oil pump? Put a dial indicator on the on the crank and take a look
Melling, a huge retailer of oil pumps says just to rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees before final torque specs. They also show on their yt uploads. Which is correct?
@@siclt1 Sorry to disappoint you guys but you can not always make it that simple. What Melling is telling you is that for a "stock" application you can get away with simply rotating the engine 360, and torque to spec. However, for kustom builds, generating generous power, "while changing out the stock spring to the COPO spring", just as this video is stating that this in fact is the application, you must shim the outer gear, utilizing .002 gauge then torque to spec. If you dont, the pump will fail. I have the destroyed pump and timing cover to prove it. You will only make that mistake once! I have a good deal of engine building experience and by far this is the most comprehensive video I have come across.
I have a pack of brass shim stock in various thicknesses, and I have an LS 5.3L truck engine apart, I think some strips of brass shim would work well for this operation. But even though my LS is very mildly cammed (stock idle and .05" more lift than stock) and has a SC system that makes 6psi max boost, I think I'm going to leave the bypass spring at stock oil pressure because I don't intend to race the truck and it will never see over 5000 rpm, and it will mostly tow, haul and highway cruise. More oil psi or volume when not really needed has a way of putting more oil in the valve cover area and causing oil consumption thru the PCV. My brother has a high HP, hi-rev supercharged intercooled LS that is giving this trouble. But one thing I did do was upgrade to a double row timing set designed to support 2000 hp (so I'm told). The stock timing chain was so loose after 100,000 miles it was a miracle it didn't jump a tooth, and this was 80% highway cruising and absolutely no racing. And replacing the timing set in the vehicle on an LS is not so easy as it was in the old days. Back in the day I changed worn timing sets on V8 Chevys, Buicks, Cadillacs, in the vehicle ... the cars all stalled due to the timing chain getting loose and jumping a tooth and you could tell by advancing the distributor and the engine would start again. Those days are over. You gotta put in a timing set that will last the life of the engine. LS truck engines are good for over 200,000 miles but the timing chains are good for maybe 100,000.
I would like to learn more about these l.Yes.Engines, I'm old school.350 was the last engine I.Rebuild, so I'm trying to find out all the information I can about rebuild A.L.S engine because I definitely don't want to mess up.Thank you
I am amazed that shops still just bolt those pumps on and not 'center' em ! Been building the ls motors since about 2001... center the pumps on every one of em. Some pumps only allow .0015".... that is tightest i've seen.
Wasnt going to shimit after watching this I thank I better this is my first time changing timing kit ,pump was wondering why holes on house n was bigger than the bolts.Does that ring an gear go n a certain way
All you need to increase soil pressure is 3245 mm bolt washers underneath that spring cap on the oil pump itself. You don't need to buy all these extra colored Springs. The spring that's in it works fine. Just shove the damn thing like we've been doing for decades. It's amazing how many people keep trying to reinvent the freaking wheel. It also doesn't help that there is at least 3 oil pressure relief valves on an LS motor. And one of them Works after the bypass valve that's in the oil filter.
I put a 295 pump on wrong primed it through the side of block and when I started it it built pressure right off the bay then went away just as quick and wouldn’t pick any oil up. I primed it again same thing. Now waiting on new oil pump to get here and install it your way 👍
Fun fact about snap on tools I SEE U have 1 The black label means it came from the Military The regular type Snap on version will have a red label ive got a Ratchet with the black label and my snap on dealer told me this so if im wrong im just repeating what he told me !! Hes been a dealer for over 20 years so it should be correct info !! And he also didnt warranty it so luckily i had the same 1 with the red and i swaped the guts out and got it fixed so if it brakes get a heat gun and get the black off of it before u hand it over for warranty!!
Is it worth it to do this on a 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3ls I'm replacing the oil pump and was wondering if I should do this or is it just a waste of time
Auto stores sell feeler gauge sets, those are cut off pcs,i know you can also buy long gaugrs that are like 10 inches long made by Scarlett, not sure where my work orders them from though@@express9387
Sir I have Chevrolet caprice ppv v8 engine L77 2013,sir can i use engine components of 5.3 for my Chevy? You know better which engine parts i can use for my car,I waiting for your suggest
Ok I’m doing my 1st LM7 , 2002 I have the stock rockers . If I want to up grade …. To what worries about clearance. I swing a new gm hi flow Oil pump.. there was no o ring on the pick up tube . It was disintegrated . My question is what color do I need .
Hi there I have a 2002 chevy avalanche and I have low oil pressure its below 40 at idle and when I'm running 45 or 50mph it's at 40 to 42 and it has 249000 on the truck and had a lot of sludge in the motor do you think a new oil pump will fix the problem I done cleaned out the oil pan and pickup tub ?
I just blew my 2nd gm oil pump on my 2016 silverado HD 6.0... looking at a melling. What setup would you recommend? I tow a camper, and do not want to change it a 3rd time lol
What does the other spring do? Add pressure? Or volume? I’m gonna be running about 1000hp with a turbo and was told to get a high volume oil pump but then was told it’ll suck my stock pan dry. So will this Melling one with that spring suffice and not suck anything dry?
Melling doesn't even show this in their install video... i offer Warranties with my engines. Ive had an average of 2 out of 20 ruin a crank in break in. I couldnt understand why. But i started doing this and i havent had a claim since.... i been looking for this video that taught me this, for months. thank you
Your method absolutely worked for me cause my 685hp ls1 is still alive and excellent oil pressure...thanks
What did you do to get your LS1 to 685Hp
Doing my first LS build and this has been really helpful. Thank you.
This is the same technique I used on my 2005 5.3 with a new Melling M295HV pump. I could only get 0.0015" feelers into it though --- but it got centered just like yours. Thanks for making me feel good about doing this pump.
Same here!
Finally a video that shows the proper install of a LS oil pump! it is refreshing to find a youtube HOW TO video from someone that knows HOW TO! Thanks so much!
How do you know this is a correct "How To"? Just some guy with a cell phone lol
@@Utubegofukurself Been building LS engines since 1997!
@@mewrongwayKOCXFIm sorry, did i dispute that?
@@mewrongwayKOCXF oh and, Melling says WRONG
@@Utubegofukurself Did Melling design the LS engine? Did Melling design the LS oil pump? No they just copy OEM parts and sell them for a profit!
I been building LS engines since 1997 and the LS did not appear in anything but a vette until 98. That tell ya anything? Does the fact that gears in a diff are set up with a certain clearance just like a LS pump, That tell you anything? Melling is doing the same thing in a less accurate manner lol, Melling just doesn't want idiots taking there pumps apart and *u*king them up and sending them back lol! So why does all the performance parts stores sell a Butler, Sac City, ICT or other LS oil pump alignment kit consisting of over priced feeler gauges?
ua-cam.com/video/DzUy1RdOx50/v-deo.html
I've installed thousands of these oil pumps over the years and have never done this or heard of this and have never had Any failures or low oil pressure do to pump failure
Testify brother, it's just a damn oil pump. These idiots all want to stroke each other over this crap.
Maybe id do this in a 1000hp drag car- but my Silverado 6.0 work truck…not a chance lol. Pump goes on, cover goes on. Bye.
Also it seems that melling states that you void warranty if you open the pump up.
Yea but if you read the service manual or all data it says you must shim.
80,000 miles later and no issues with my ls2 trailblazer
wow i’m actually really glad I stumbled upon this video, i’m pretty new to LS engines and i’m doing an oil pump on my truck here shortly and this popped up on my suggested. thanks 👍
Which oil pump are you using? Melling doesn’t recommend feeler gauges anymore
Much easier than other methods I've seen. Thanks.
Wow..... I would have just slapped it on and never thought about it needing adjustment. Thanks for the video, I'll be doing this job soon.
I did slap it on my first ls engine. Why? Because my 2000 factory shop manual made no mention of this!!! I'd bet money that the newer editions do. Remember, back in 2000, these engines and manuals were only in their 4th year of production, and new, better methods get discovered over time......
Mellings website says put oil pump on and rotate crank 360deg then torque oil pump melling does not tell you to take the pump cover off
@@TheJdizzle02 I have also seen, and read about this method. I'm sure this procedure would work, too.....
@@milojanis4901 the high volume oil pump I installed didn't have enough clearance for a .0015
@@TheJdizzle02 how I do all mine install turn engine over and trq them
Thanks for the video. Used it to set mine up tonight after my first cam install. Feels good knowing it’s all done and done right.
Hey i have some ocean front property in Arizona for sale for really cheap!
Thanks for that tidbit of information. Getting ready to rebuild 5.3L LC9 block and this looks to be the easiest method for centering the gear.
Awesome explanation. I’ve always done this. But i like your method better, by removing the shims. When you torque down the cover, there’s usually two of the bolt holes that have flattened edges, making them look slotted. I believe they are there to center the cover and should be the first two to install and snug down.
absolutely great info for someone tbat just fell into the LS world
Thank You sir for the informative and simple process of shimming the oil pump. Keep up the good videos. Have A Productive Day! 🛻🚚🚛
Wow - that is vastly simpler than the other methods I've seen.
I installed the same pump on a build I did 2 years ago and just bolted it on. Melling told me there was sacrificial rings in the pump to center it, I didn't even torque the cover and after torqueing the mounting bolts there was no play which made me a little uneasy but no problems so far. I have used a similar method with GM pumps just centering the ring, I was glad to see that is how you did it. Thanks.
Melling also told me it was not needed to shim the oil pump
I'm about to swap my harmonic balancer in my C5 and will replace the timing set and oil pump while I am in there, this was very useful!
Best video ever on the LS oil pump assembly 🔥
I am doing a DoD this spring and plan on upgrading the oil pump while I'm there.
melling instructions in the box mentioned none of this, i just sent her down and been great pressure for years. technically all it should change is the ratio of compression because it floats offset anyway. if it was so important there would be dowels for the oil pump
Going to the parts store to go get new filler gauges now, Thanks for this informational video!
Thanks!
Thank you!
I'm performing a LS rebuild procedure very soon and I'm subbing you because you sound very helpful
Nicely explained
I always wonder why people skip this simple step on, arguably, the most important engine component.
Because many guys don’t know that it is necessary. UA-cam is full of them.
because the pump manufacturers (melling) void your warranty if you remove the front cover. Also if it was so crucial, GM service would have a procedure for centering the pump. They don't.
@ Kyle Allen
On my LS1 I installed a new Melling oil pump by priming the oil pump before I installed onto the crankshaft. Good oil pressure to this day.
I'd say that it IS the most important component!!! Without it, you could dump a $100,000 into your engine, and it wouldn't run for more than several seconds before it took itself back apart again!!
Smart. Perfect no bullshit video exactly what i needed to know with no drama perfect video
Thank you Steven!
@@JacobVillemain Please tell me what is the brand of shimms and where to get them?
You should really do some giveaways this channel needs to grow this is valuable DIY info!!! Definitely helping me build my first engine!!
That is the best method i have seen for that.
This video is perfect. Only thing I would ask, and I know it’s weird, is how to install an oil pump on an ls while the engine is still in a car or truck. I’m looking to do a cam and pump upgrade.
Thanks man ! That was helpful as I am planning to rebuild my LM7 engine. 🇨🇦🤘
Wow.Fantastic video! I was going to.skip this step until you demostrated it so clearly. Thank you!
Great video from Australia 🇦🇺
What size shims are you using?
Any info on the shims that you are using where to get those?
@@express9387 They are just .002” shims you get in a set of automotive feeler gauges. Get two sets and remove them from the assembly. Replace them when you’re done.
Thank you for your time sir.
Very helpful.
All your vids are awesome brother.
God bless
Great video like always,,,was wondering about a in depth video on a break in how to,,,thanks again,,,
So what size shims or feeler gauges did you use?
.002”-.0025”
@@reeljamescooperI was coming here to comment the same thing. He literally said it in the video
@@reeljamescooper where can i get those shims?
@ harbor freight, there called feeler gauges.
My man! Quick and simple video.
How about a mention about mounting the pick up tube using the bolt that can be removed with the oil pan on.
Its a pain in the ASS
@@grngs1 oh yeah. I’ve done it before. But once you get passed the 10 mm bolt on the pick up, the rest is cake.
I get at it by loosening the pan bolts and dropping the front of the pan just an inch. Easy access to that bolt then.
Doing it right now I got extendable magnet and zip tied a bigger one to it slid it from driver side under crank in case it fell n pan and it did but bigger magnet pulled it to it lay a rag in the pan first its a Mf till I got magnet
Melling instructions are to install pump finger right. Then rotate the crank 360 degrees. Next torque pump to 18 ft/lbs and you're done. That centers that gear. Could they be wrong?
Correct b/c this will automatically push out the gears to its proper spacing and youre done. The reasoning behind this is that once it’s ☝️ tighten, the 360 rotation of the crank will set the center spacing perfectly. New mechanic vs “old school”. If you bring this into a mechanics bay - they don’t have two feeler gauges handy - plus they don’t use them anyways unless it’s a rebuild shop etc.
Sorry to disappoint you guys but you can not always make it that simple. What Melling is telling you is that for a "stock" application you can get away with simply rotating the engine 360, and torque to spec. However, for kustom builds, generating generous power, "while changing out the stock spring to the COPO spring", just as this video is stating that this in fact is the application, you must shim the outer gear, utilizing .002 gauge then torque to spec. If you dont, the pump will fail. I have the destroyed pump and timing cover to prove it. You will only make that mistake once! I have a good deal of engine building experience and by far this is the most comprehensive video I have come across.
@@RezurxnSpeedAndMarineHesperia BS
The backlash is automatically adjusted when rotating the crankshaft a couple times then torque 4 bolts, according to milling.
Why would you do this procedure, is there a real benefit?
Peace of mind when the engine is $15k+
I have a 5.3 cl9 and am looking for a complete guide for the top end for about 3k. Cheap yes I know but its what I have. Any suggestions?
You guys are bad ass . Need goid mechanics like you guys here in San Diego.
Good job made it a lot more simple
Thankyou for the video. I’m getting ready to do this prospect in my truck
Furthermore use green loctite for the oil pump bolts. They will never move until you take them off.
Great video, can you please tell us what size feeler guage you used? I’m working on a 1999 Z28 LS1
Thanks!
question do ya have a video or make one on replacing a harmonic balancer on both the 5.3L & 8.1L '99-06' GM truck engines using the manufactures torque specs. would appreciate it sir!!
What I was looking for. Putting in a Melling HV pump soon. THANKS!
Also remember to prime the pump as well.
Update- tried to remove the cover on my new melling pump with a t30 bit.... second bolt head stripped. Wtf! Can't shim now.
Yep, Melling doesn't want you taking those out. They don't recommend this anymore.
@@1bad69xss4 Awesome, thanks for the info. I installed mine without shimming and it's still holding up and performing great after a few months of use. Glad i did it. Oil pressure is in a healthy range at idle now.
@@1bad69xss4 From what Melling's video showed was finger tight, rotate the crankshaft 360° then torque it down.
@@pointblank2910I’ll be installing mine oil pump on tbss ima just do that 360 and sent it 👍🏽🙏🏾
uhhh... You know the crank moves around right? Do you canter the crank before centering the oil pump? Put a dial indicator on the on the crank and take a look
What single row timing chain and gears do you recommend….Thanks
thank you for another excellent video
I have a 115k mile L77. Got Ls 7 lifters, DOD delete. About to install BTR stage 2 v2 cam and springs.
Should I be running the Melling 10295 pump?
Just awesome, that makes perfect sense now!
Best procedure I've seen
What timing gear set are you using on this engine?
Is that normal that the drive gear is loose ?
Great video 👍. Any chance of doing an L83/L86 oil pump install and info to limit pump whine?
What about priming, if necessary?
What thickness feeler gauges are you using ? Also at what torque setting are the front oil pump cover screews torqued back down to ?
sounded like he said 2 thousand gauges and 108 inch pounds
Two 0.0025 shim and torque to 108 inch pound (i think it's around 6-8 foot pound)
Melling, a huge retailer of oil pumps says just to rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees before final torque specs. They also show on their yt uploads. Which is correct?
Yes this is correct, this guy is wasting time and knowledge for nothing
@@siclt1 Sorry to disappoint you guys but you can not always make it that simple. What Melling is telling you is that for a "stock" application you can get away with simply rotating the engine 360, and torque to spec. However, for kustom builds, generating generous power, "while changing out the stock spring to the COPO spring", just as this video is stating that this in fact is the application, you must shim the outer gear, utilizing .002 gauge then torque to spec. If you dont, the pump will fail. I have the destroyed pump and timing cover to prove it. You will only make that mistake once! I have a good deal of engine building experience and by far this is the most comprehensive video I have come across.
@@RezurxnSpeedAndMarineHesperia BS
I have a pack of brass shim stock in various thicknesses, and I have an LS 5.3L truck engine apart, I think some strips of brass shim would work well for this operation. But even though my LS is very mildly cammed (stock idle and .05" more lift than stock) and has a SC system that makes 6psi max boost, I think I'm going to leave the bypass spring at stock oil pressure because I don't intend to race the truck and it will never see over 5000 rpm, and it will mostly tow, haul and highway cruise. More oil psi or volume when not really needed has a way of putting more oil in the valve cover area and causing oil consumption thru the PCV. My brother has a high HP, hi-rev supercharged intercooled LS that is giving this trouble.
But one thing I did do was upgrade to a double row timing set designed to support 2000 hp (so I'm told). The stock timing chain was so loose after 100,000 miles it was a miracle it didn't jump a tooth, and this was 80% highway cruising and absolutely no racing. And replacing the timing set in the vehicle on an LS is not so easy as it was in the old days. Back in the day I changed worn timing sets on V8 Chevys, Buicks, Cadillacs, in the vehicle ... the cars all stalled due to the timing chain getting loose and jumping a tooth and you could tell by advancing the distributor and the engine would start again. Those days are over. You gotta put in a timing set that will last the life of the engine. LS truck engines are good for over 200,000 miles but the timing chains are good for maybe 100,000.
Great advice and very helpful .thank you.
I would like to learn more about these l.Yes.Engines, I'm old school.350 was the last engine I.Rebuild, so I'm trying to find out all the information I can about rebuild A.L.S engine because I definitely don't want to mess up.Thank you
I am amazed that shops still just bolt those pumps on and not 'center' em ! Been building the ls motors since about 2001... center the pumps on every one of em. Some pumps only allow .0015".... that is tightest i've seen.
Wasnt going to shimit after watching this I thank I better this is my first time changing timing kit ,pump was wondering why holes on house n was bigger than the bolts.Does that ring an gear go n a certain way
All you need to increase soil pressure is 3245 mm bolt washers underneath that spring cap on the oil pump itself. You don't need to buy all these extra colored Springs. The spring that's in it works fine. Just shove the damn thing like we've been doing for decades. It's amazing how many people keep trying to reinvent the freaking wheel. It also doesn't help that there is at least 3 oil pressure relief valves on an LS motor. And one of them Works after the bypass valve that's in the oil filter.
Thanks for the explanation love the videos!
It would have been nice if you had mentioned what size feeler gauge to use 🙄. Otherwise this was an awesome video.
I put a 295 pump on wrong primed it through the side of block and when I started it it built pressure right off the bay then went away just as quick and wouldn’t pick any oil up. I primed it again same thing. Now waiting on new oil pump to get here and install it your way 👍
Its the only way to do it right ✅ 💯
Can you do a video on degreeing a stage 3,4 cam on a ls heads on are off. Do and don't.
What size feeler gauges did you use ?
Obviously, you didn't watch, or can't hear......
I believe he said 0.002".
Excellent vid. Easy to follow from start to finish.
Thanks for sharing this video! 👍
Does this have to be done to LT4 engines too??
What type of oil are you squirting in to it? It looks super thick.
place pump on, snug bolts finger tight, spin crank 4 to 5 times, torque bolts, done.
Fun fact about snap on tools I SEE U have 1 The black label means it came from the Military The regular type Snap on version will have a red label ive got a Ratchet with the black label and my snap on dealer told me this so if im wrong im just repeating what he told me !! Hes been a dealer for over 20 years so it should be correct info !! And he also didnt warranty it so luckily i had the same 1 with the red and i swaped the guts out and got it fixed so if it brakes get a heat gun and get the black off of it before u hand it over for warranty!!
I have 2018 ls3 chevy perf. crate motor 495 hp. Should I use the 10295 or 10355
Very good information. I just found your channel and subbed.
Is it worth it to do this on a 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3ls I'm replacing the oil pump and was wondering if I should do this or is it just a waste of time
@ that engine guy.
Just updated my stock pump on my 160k ls with a melling. Any recommendations on what spring to run? Thanks great vid
does it have to be done in an old pump too after removing it?
What size or thickness are the shims used to center pump gearts ? good vid😎
was .002 or .0025 thou
@@shadowcast1975 please tell me where they sell shimms like those???
Auto stores sell feeler gauge sets, those are cut off pcs,i know you can also buy long gaugrs that are like 10 inches long made by Scarlett, not sure where my work orders them from though@@express9387
What’s the company you work for I keep hearing you say smetting or something in the other videos. Was wanting to see y’all’s products
what oil lube are you using and what do you recommend for engine assy lube if engine is gonna set a year before starting
If you just take your oil pump off to do timing chain and go back with the old pump do you still need to do this step
Nice, thanks for sharing the knowledge and tips 🙂👍subscribed!
Sir I have Chevrolet caprice ppv v8 engine L77 2013,sir can i use engine components of 5.3 for my Chevy? You know better which engine parts i can use for my car,I waiting for your suggest
you can use that 10295 Melling pump on your Caprice
Ok I’m doing my 1st LM7 , 2002 I have the stock rockers . If I want to up grade …. To what worries about clearance. I swing a new gm hi flow
Oil pump.. there was no o ring on the pick up tube . It was disintegrated . My question is what color do I need .
So you had two of the same feeler guage thickness ?
Which side does the thrust bearing go on the cam gear itself I have the same kit but doesn’t specify which side
What kind of oil are you using to prime that? Looks like pretty thick stuff.
5w-20 break-in oil
What gasket kit brand do you use on your builds?
Hi there I have a 2002 chevy avalanche and I have low oil pressure its below 40 at idle and when I'm running 45 or 50mph it's at 40 to 42 and it has 249000 on the truck and had a lot of sludge in the motor do you think a new oil pump will fix the problem I done cleaned out the oil pan and pickup tub ?
cant go wrong with a new oil pump, it could also stop lifter tap also cause the lifters wont be starving for oil anymore
@@mctigmctiggy1475 most of them are, number 1 rule, you dont look at them lol
what about when the crank rides on oil. crank will lift
What size gauges did you use? I'm about to change an oil pump soon. Good to know info.
Did you ever get an answer on this?
If you watch the video he literally tells you plain as day
Is there a place for a 10296 (high volume) i use the 10295 all the time just never see anyone use the other.
I just blew my 2nd gm oil pump on my 2016 silverado HD 6.0... looking at a melling. What setup would you recommend? I tow a camper, and do not want to change it a 3rd time lol
You got other problems if your oil pump quit working twice.
How did u do in the mile run on the twin turbo vet ??
What does the other spring do? Add pressure? Or volume? I’m gonna be running about 1000hp with a turbo and was told to get a high volume oil pump but then was told it’ll suck my stock pan dry. So will this Melling one with that spring suffice and not suck anything dry?
What size feelers to use or is it best to measure the gap on one side to work out the size needed?