I know im randomly asking but does any of you know of a way to get back into an instagram account? I stupidly lost my login password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me
@Memphis Graham thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
less than a foot of tubing and a funnel... put in half a quart of oil and let sit till funnel and tube is drained. install plug, reassemble, start the car... simple and saved you $15. just did it today. 50 psi in less than 2 seconds.
Engine holds 6 qts. Put oil in filter, put 4 quarts in the sprayer and the remaining oil in the pan, will eliminate alot of the gurgling and speed up your process for those of us who are impatient, can also overfill with oil for this process and drain to proper levels prior to start-up.
Great tool, Im off to Home Depot to copy it now.. Originally I used an air chuck attached a 5 gt oil jug and a hose (through the cap of the jug) and filled the jug with air (forcing oil out through the hose) then fed it in the side of the block using a barbed fitting. It worked for a while, then the jug split apart lol.. Thus your idea is pretty solid, and at 20-25 psi I should be good just to prime a sitting engine until I reinstall it in the truck (truck is being painted, complete color change). Most folks don't know that as time passes by, oil drains from the top of the engine back down to the bottom/oil pan from just sitting. Thus I don't mind priming it at least once a week and a few good rotations to insure I don't ruin any cam, rod or main bearings!! The crazy part about your idea is that there's oil primers out that cost $150 and up, just nuts.. You sir are considered a "Macgyver" in my book! (that's a good thing for those who never heard of the name/character or the show) Awesome tool/idea! Just subbed! Thanks for sharing!
That's essentially how I primed my LT1. But it doesn't have the port like the LS so I purchased an adapter that screws onto the oil filter location. I didn't use air pressure but I pumped the living daylights out of the garden sprayer and pushed all of the oil into the engine. It wasn't a rebuild, just had been sitting for a couple of years without running. When I hit the starter the first time it popped off immediately with just the fuel that was still in the rails.
@@GTOGregory Yes. I still have it. It's an OTC oil pressure preluder adapter. I paid $50 for it on Amazon. If you're interested, make me an offer, Don;t forget shipping.
I used your system here tp prime my new LS3 crate motor. I put pressue on it with the sprayer pump and turned the engine by hand a few times. Before too long oil was coming out the push rods. I did not need to use compressor pressure. 5W 30 oil and I left the new oil container in the hot sun for awhile to get it warm and thinner. I would say that if you use the compressor be sure your compressor tank is drained of water so you don't put water in your oil.
This method worked amazing, super cheap and super effective. pumped 3 quarts through in no time at all, saw 70psi oil pressure within the first second of startup. Thanks!!!
Wow! Thank You Brother! I knew there would be a way and your video saves me alot of head scratching! 20 years ago I witnessed a dry fire on a Gen 1 SBC and when we inspected the rod & main bearings, it shortened the life of the crankshaft big time. Kudo's to you Brother!👍
This was so easy and cheap, so thank you. I didn't even end up using the compressor. It really didn't take too much effort to pump by hand. I did add the tire valve, but ended up using the handle because I figured I'd probably explode the bottle in my face. I did use a simple tire gauge on the valve to make sure I was under 30 PSI though.
I put oil in the filter and fill up the oil pan. Then leave the spark plugs out and turn it over with a remote on the starter in 15 second intervals. After 3 or 4 hits.....fully primed. This way also lets you know your oil pump is working as it should as it's actually pulling the oil through the system and not a weed sprayer.
Awesome, and thank you for such an easy way to prime a crank oil pump engine. The engine on my new to me 2001 Camaro SS has been sitting a few years and I have no idea how long its going to take cranking to get running. Hopefully this will keep my bearings from getting wiped!
I like this, this is a great idea to work from for my Toyota 3rz thats soon going to need to be fully primed before startup. In my case i might just remove my oil pressure-sending unit and back feed the oil that way not sure yet. Anyway, great tip for those with crank driven oil pump engines. well done well done
Great Job! I've been thinking about building the same pre-oiler. However, I have a Gen5 LT engine and I'm just not sure where to feed the oil in. The professional metal tank pre-oilers cost from $180 to $250! Outrageous!
Excellent. I am going to fill the engine with oil by pouring it through the intake valley and then try turning the oil pump through the distributor hole using a shaft and a drill. If I can't get it happening like that I will go this route. Good thinking. Thanks
@@denvermilehighracing5385 I'm not in the know on all the engine models. Mine is a 1996 Chevrolet 5.7 L Vortex in a K2500. It has a distributor but I will prime it up before the battleship goes back on. What model designation would mine be? What are the details of an LS? Thanks
@@leh3827 You have the Vortex small block chevy which isn't a LS engine, it's the generation before the LS. The LS engines started in the 1997 Corvette.
It’s $15 if you already have the sprayer and a oil pressure gauge but most people don’t have a sprayer just laying around we are mechanics not a gardener lol
The easiest and most cost effective way is to disconnect the injectors and crank the motor over until you see pressure. Then you're good to go. Costs $0.00.
Very cool, inexpensive, and it works very well. Now if only I could find away to do this method to a 460 Ford BB. I hate pulling the distributor and using a drill to get oil up top after sitting over the winter. Thanks for sharing and the links and items needed. Cheers from Motown/Dearborn.
Great vid. Why not un nut the wand and discard it and use the hose that came with the hudson sprayer? Saves $7 in tubing. Is there something wrong with that tubing that comes with it? Clear might be easier to see but the volume will be dropping in the tank to know it is moving.
I hate to break it to you, but this is incorrect. You likely aren’t oiling the whole engine by doing it this way. If you know how the oiling system works in an LS engine and it was assembled correctly with moly-based assembly lube, that is all you need. They make assembly lube for a reason and its worked fantastic for over 100 years. Some builders will assemble engines w/o it and be fine. I would only do this if I planned to fire the engine up right away. Secondly, if you have oil in the pan, and an electric starter(as it should in its assembled state), simply remove the fuel pump relay. With a fully charged battery, all it should take is a couple long cranks of the starter. Maybe twice for 9 or 10 seconds each before you see oil come up from the rockers. This is the proper way to prime the engine, because its flowing in the right direction and no air is being introduced into the system. More importantly, you are making sure the heart of the engine is pumping oil through it well enough. Your method does not prime the oil pump because there’s a relief check valve not getting oil to it. This is the most failure prone part of the LS oiling system, if you don’t count the lifters. I respect your creativity and thinking outside the box. But No reason to re-invent the wheel here, my friend. Technology is at your fingertips to save you time and $$$. If you have the time and money to waste to test your creativity, just do everyone else a favor and leave it off youtube, so you aren’t wasting their’s either.
If you sent as much time as you did Is writing that essay. By watching video showing a pump with cover replaced with transparent cover. Then you could come back And delete your comment. # pot calling the kettle black.
Awesome idea! Man all I could think of was the hose you just slipped on at the block coming off and squirting down the whole shop. I'd feel better with a hose clamp.
Hey young man; Gotta a cal questions; that port you used on block, I'm assuming it was after pump. Am I correct? There is a port on the oil filter also. Do you know if that one on pump pressure side into filter or on the out flow side? I'm working on an old 97 GMC with over 350 thousand miles and she has no knocks or clatters. However she runs at low oil pressure. Upon start up she runs 50 , Once warmed up At Idle it is about 6 psi, at 2000 RPM she runs 40. This is just gonna be my putter Arnd truck. I was "jack leg" thinking if I could tap into the drain pan plug and install a electric pump shoving fluid to the "hopefully" the before filter port.. Any thoughts ????? Best; Tom
@@HTMR oh ok I will I have to check to make sure it was on there, motor went to a machine shop and got cleaned so they may have put something on the threads
Great video. It looks as though you started with the engine completely empty of oil, correct? After you pumped in the 3 or 4 quarts did you just add the extra engine oil to the recommended capacity?
Not being a smartass... oil to the rocker arms is the last thing that ever gets oil, so if they are getting oil that means everything else is too, and oil only gets there from traveling up the push rod holes which comes from the lifters. That's why he was turning engine over by hand so all the oil goes through main/rod bearing holes and into crank holes.
Doing it now would be pointless if you already filled it with oil and cranked it up. If it still hasn't run yet, sure you can do this at any time, ideally just before the first start.
Yeah, I pumped it up to 25 PSI by hand really easily. In my opinion, the air compressor isn't necessary, but I still liked having the tire valve to check with a gauge.
@@HTMR I took over after someone else quit. Just helping a friend that wasted his money on a bar stool mechanic. He over tighten valve's that pulled 2 studs. I have started motor and it now runs great. I'm manually oiling rocker arms. Roller lifters 60 psi at Gage. Chevy 383 stroker crate moter. A machine shop changed cam
@@HTMR I have ran it 10 times for 30 sec to 1 min, raised rpm up about 1000 last 2 times. Now removed lifters and put in oil, all let air bubbles. Next I'm spinning oil pump to see if oil comes up. Does oil pass cam just before lifters? Is oil gauge after pump and before crank, then cam and lifters. Thinking I need to check cam bearings. I have 60 psi steady and consistent, immediately on start up.
i would do this just before your first start up not why its on the stand . prime it in the car or truck would be best a fresh coat oil on every thing thats when you will be breaking every thing in like cam and bearings lots of heat
NOT A BAD IDEA. I seen other guys open this and just prime the pump so its instantly pumping oil on first start BUT would you still do this for a junkyard engine with its old oil still in there, you bought for $445 canadian/about350usd with 220,000 km /about 150,000 miles? im not sure how accessible this plug is once engine is installed. the sending unit hole is even less accesible.
Is there anyone in central / Southern California that can help me with my Yukon lifter issue. First it was oil pressure sensor gauge . Now lifter with misfire on 7 now Stabiltrak coming on now too I love this car and it ran so strong .. new wheels and tires… last oil change and I’m looking at in my driveway everyday now. Dealer says 10k for a new motor.
You can also take the spark plugs out and use the starter and turn it over 20 seconds or so and repeat until you get pressure. Also make sure not to over heat the starter but with no spark plugs it doesn’t get to hot at all
@@soggy000unit2 it has too or you have issues, but I also put 7 quarts of oil in it as well. I’ve put together and sold 13 engines this year and I do them all this way and all started having pressure within 3-5 seconds, also the longer you let it spin the higher the pressure gets closer to operating pressure, from all the ones I’ve done I’ve noticed using the starter to prime the pressure is about 10 psi lower than idle pressure. I need to post a UA-cam video explaining and showing everyone what I do.
You are priming an oil gallery. If you are priming a galley with oil you are probably going to have a bunch of annoyed sailors but not a primed engine.
Why can't u just soak the parts in oil or put assembly lube in them or whatever u have apart then remove the fuel pump fuse and turn key till the oil pressure builds then go a few more turns then start
You can. This method is unless. I own a shop and installed MANY new engines. What I do is pull fuse or relay to disable fuel system. Hook up my computer or gauge and crank till my psi range has been meet and I’ve never had an issue. Also all new or rebuild engines have assembly lube that is designed to lubricate moving parts till oil gets there. Also this system seems flawed because all the oil is going to go back into the crank case first because of the pick up tube and pump have least resistance, that’s why he used all that oil because most of it went back to the crank case
"All we have to do is....." Do u know what its like to get to that port on an in vehicle engine? Do you know how hard it is to take that port deal off? I do. Holy beeep..... Thank you for the video and take care.
Funny, this said the"easy way," lol it would be one thing if you already had these things ready to go... but he made out like 15 bucks? Come on, the fittings he put into the pressure release were more than 15 bucks, not to mention all the time it takes to get this stuff and he goes further to out in a valve to the sprayer to use his compressor? All kind of "extra." Now, it is pretty neat, but not what I would call the cheap and easy way.
Man you guys do too damn much for no reason.. every single time I have rebuilt an ls motor I just make sure I use some good assembly lube and then just turn the motor over a couple of times with the starter with the coil packs unplugged ofcourse and that's it..... You sir are completely over doing something for nothing 🤔
@@intheshoptv so after you put the bearings motor all together there is some law against putting the oil in ? Your comment makes no sense. Are you saying the oil can only be put in after the motor is installed?
@@intheshoptv I prelube every moving part in motors I build. I pour some oil or assembly lube in the oil pump and turn by hand so all the gears are coated and then install on the block. Once started the oil pressure is 60 to 70 pounds within seconds. You do it your way. I do it mine.
M16 x 1.5 to 1/8 NPT fitting - amzn.to/3lW2w99
Weed sprayer - amzn.to/395T2Vp
OTC pressure gauge - amzn.to/36Z0X47
Tubing - amzn.to/339CQP5
I know im randomly asking but does any of you know of a way to get back into an instagram account?
I stupidly lost my login password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me
@Zion Connor instablaster :)
@Memphis Graham thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Memphis Graham It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thanks so much, you really help me out !
@Zion Connor No problem :)
less than a foot of tubing and a funnel... put in half a quart of oil and let sit till funnel and tube is drained. install plug, reassemble, start the car...
simple and saved you $15. just did it today. 50 psi in less than 2 seconds.
Engine holds 6 qts. Put oil in filter, put 4 quarts in the sprayer and the remaining oil in the pan, will eliminate alot of the gurgling and speed up your process for those of us who are impatient, can also overfill with oil for this process and drain to proper levels prior to start-up.
Great tool, Im off to Home Depot to copy it now..
Originally I used an air chuck attached a 5 gt oil jug and a hose (through the cap of the jug) and filled the jug with air (forcing oil out through the hose) then fed it in the side of the block using a barbed fitting.
It worked for a while, then the jug split apart lol..
Thus your idea is pretty solid, and at 20-25 psi I should be good just to prime a sitting engine until I reinstall it in the truck (truck is being painted, complete color change).
Most folks don't know that as time passes by, oil drains from the top of the engine back down to the bottom/oil pan from just sitting.
Thus I don't mind priming it at least once a week and a few good rotations to insure I don't ruin any cam, rod or main bearings!!
The crazy part about your idea is that there's oil primers out that cost $150 and up, just nuts..
You sir are considered a "Macgyver" in my book! (that's a good thing for those who never heard of the name/character or the show)
Awesome tool/idea! Just subbed! Thanks for sharing!
That's essentially how I primed my LT1. But it doesn't have the port like the LS so I purchased an adapter that screws onto the oil filter location. I didn't use air pressure but I pumped the living daylights out of the garden sprayer and pushed all of the oil into the engine. It wasn't a rebuild, just had been sitting for a couple of years without running. When I hit the starter the first time it popped off immediately with just the fuel that was still in the rails.
So, you used an adapter like for a remote oil filter? I have a Gen5 LT engine I must pre-oil.
@@GTOGregory Yes. I still have it. It's an OTC oil pressure preluder adapter. I paid $50 for it on Amazon. If you're interested, make me an offer, Don;t forget shipping.
I used your system here tp prime my new LS3 crate motor. I put pressue on it with the sprayer pump and turned the engine by hand a few times. Before too long oil was coming out the push rods. I did not need to use compressor pressure. 5W 30 oil and I left the new oil container in the hot sun for awhile to get it warm and thinner. I would say that if you use the compressor be sure your compressor tank is drained of water so you don't put water in your oil.
Any air that is blown in should evaporate once the engine's started.
This method worked amazing, super cheap and super effective. pumped 3 quarts through in no time at all, saw 70psi oil pressure within the first second of startup. Thanks!!!
What a great idea !!! I used my transmission filler for vehicles with no dipsticks
Wow! Thank You Brother! I knew there would be a way and your video saves me alot of head scratching! 20 years ago I witnessed a dry fire on a Gen 1 SBC and when we inspected the rod & main bearings, it shortened the life of the crankshaft big time. Kudo's to you Brother!👍
I love how easy these engines are!
This was so easy and cheap, so thank you. I didn't even end up using the compressor. It really didn't take too much effort to pump by hand. I did add the tire valve, but ended up using the handle because I figured I'd probably explode the bottle in my face. I did use a simple tire gauge on the valve to make sure I was under 30 PSI though.
Thanks!
I put oil in the filter and fill up the oil pan. Then leave the spark plugs out and turn it over with a remote on the starter in 15 second intervals. After 3 or 4 hits.....fully primed. This way also lets you know your oil pump is working as it should as it's actually pulling the oil through the system and not a weed sprayer.
Awesome, and thank you for such an easy way to prime a crank oil pump engine. The engine on my new to me 2001 Camaro SS has been sitting a few years and I have no idea how long its going to take cranking to get running.
Hopefully this will keep my bearings from getting wiped!
I like this, this is a great idea to work from for my Toyota 3rz thats soon going to need to be fully primed before startup. In my case i might just remove my oil pressure-sending unit and back feed the oil that way not sure yet. Anyway, great tip for those with crank driven oil pump engines. well done well done
Great Job! I've been thinking about building the same pre-oiler. However, I have a Gen5 LT engine and I'm just not sure where to feed the oil in. The professional metal tank pre-oilers cost from $180 to $250! Outrageous!
Excellent.
I am going to fill the engine with oil by pouring it through the intake valley and then try turning the oil pump through the distributor hole using a shaft and a drill. If I can't get it happening like that I will go this route. Good thinking.
Thanks
There is no distributor or hole on a LS engine.
@@denvermilehighracing5385 I'm not in the know on all the engine models. Mine is a 1996 Chevrolet 5.7 L Vortex in a K2500. It has a distributor but I will prime it up before the battleship goes back on.
What model designation would mine be? What are the details of an LS?
Thanks
@@leh3827 You have the Vortex small block chevy which isn't a LS engine, it's the generation before the LS. The LS engines started in the 1997 Corvette.
@@denvermilehighracing5385 What was special about the LS?
this is a fantastic idea thanks for the upload from Australia
"How to Prime an LS engine for $15". Start with a $100 pressure gauge, $30 in fittings and a $20 weed sprayer.......
It’s $15 if you already have the sprayer and a oil pressure gauge but most people don’t have a sprayer just laying around we are mechanics not a gardener lol
😂
LOL !!!!!!!
😅😅😅😅
Great idea and thanks for all the detail on parts, thanks for answering all the questions, I had the same ones.
Thank you sir for the video. This is the easiest and most cost effective process that I've watched and will be doing it this way.
@@champspec How about a crate engine that's been sitting for 5yrs?
The easiest and most cost effective way is to disconnect the injectors and crank the motor over until you see pressure. Then you're good to go. Costs $0.00.
Thx for sharing as I made the same setup for my LQ4 motor and worked perfect.
Very cool, inexpensive, and it works very well. Now if only I could find away to do this method to a 460 Ford BB. I hate pulling the distributor and using a drill to get oil up top after sitting over the winter. Thanks for sharing and the links and items needed. Cheers from Motown/Dearborn.
Use the oil sending unit port.
The filter can be filled before it is installed.
Super awesome video! Simple but genius!
I got one 1 pushrod being stubborn hoping when I go prime it up that it finally cooperates with me
Great vid. Why not un nut the wand and discard it and use the hose that came with the hudson sprayer? Saves $7 in tubing. Is there something wrong with that tubing that comes with it? Clear might be easier to see but the volume will be dropping in the tank to know it is moving.
Easy simple & as usual brilliant. I'm with Jake
I hate to break it to you, but this is incorrect. You likely aren’t oiling the whole engine by doing it this way. If you know how the oiling system works in an LS engine and it was assembled correctly with moly-based assembly lube, that is all you need. They make assembly lube for a reason and its worked fantastic for over 100 years. Some builders will assemble engines w/o it and be fine. I would only do this if I planned to fire the engine up right away.
Secondly, if you have oil in the pan, and an electric starter(as it should in its assembled state), simply remove the fuel pump relay. With a fully charged battery, all it should take is a couple long cranks of the starter. Maybe twice for 9 or 10 seconds each before you see oil come up from the rockers. This is the proper way to prime the engine, because its flowing in the right direction and no air is being introduced into the system. More importantly, you are making sure the heart of the engine is pumping oil through it well enough. Your method does not prime the oil pump because there’s a relief check valve not getting oil to it. This is the most failure prone part of the LS oiling system, if you don’t count the lifters.
I respect your creativity and thinking outside the box. But No reason to re-invent the wheel here, my friend. Technology is at your fingertips to save you time and $$$. If you have the time and money to waste to test your creativity, just do everyone else a favor and leave it off youtube, so you aren’t wasting their’s either.
If you sent as much time as you did Is writing that essay. By watching video showing a pump with cover replaced with transparent cover. Then you could come back And delete your comment. # pot calling the kettle black.
I wonder if it would be a good idea to use the motive power bleeder for brakes, but just use engine oil instead.
Exactly what I was planning.
This is the easiest one I’ve seen!!!🔥🔥🔥🔥
Love it. Thanks for the great videos!
Question: Would the lifters be 'pumped' after doing this?
Yes. I installed mine not pumped up or soaked in oil, primed per video. and fired up with no noises what so ever.
Awesome idea! Man all I could think of was the hose you just slipped on at the block coming off and squirting down the whole shop. I'd feel better with a hose clamp.
Hey young man; Gotta a cal questions;
that port you used on block, I'm assuming it was after pump. Am I correct?
There is a port on the oil filter also. Do you know if that one on pump pressure side into filter or on the out flow side?
I'm working on an old 97 GMC with over 350 thousand miles and she has no knocks or clatters. However she runs at low oil pressure.
Upon start up she runs 50 , Once warmed up At Idle it is about 6 psi, at 2000 RPM she runs 40.
This is just gonna be my putter Arnd truck.
I was "jack leg" thinking if I could tap into the drain pan plug and install a electric pump shoving fluid to the "hopefully" the before filter port..
Any thoughts ?????
Best; Tom
Quick question when you prime is it oil in the oil pan too or it’s empty while your priming. Or does it not matter
Empty pan. It took 4 quarts to prime to rockers. Pan is 5-6 qt.
What fitting did you use for the gauge up the sending units spot?
Well done, and thank you.
Did you put any thread sealant on the oil galley plugs threads when done? Thanks for the informative video
No because there is a washer for sealing.
@@HTMR sorry wasn't clear on that, I meant the actual plug that is the Allen key that comes factory in the block, not the oil primer set up pieces
@@mellowyellow8856 I was also referring to the "stock" plug.
@@HTMR oh ok I will I have to check to make sure it was on there, motor went to a machine shop and got cleaned so they may have put something on the threads
Love this channel bro🔥🔥🔥
Did you have to buy two of those adaptors or did you use the hardware that came with your pressure gauge for the top side?
Bought 2 of them
Awesome job with this tool, I was told there is no way to prime an ls motor 😊
Can you link the other 2 fittings after the M16 x 1.5 to 1/8 NPT fitting Please?
Nevermind I found a 1/8 inch npt to hose barb to eliminate the other 2 fittings you put on there..
Would you do this if just replacing lifters and not oil pump?
Yes
Why not put a barb fitting in the plug hole to begin with?
Very innovative thanks for sharing
Great video. It looks as though you started with the engine completely empty of oil, correct? After you pumped in the 3 or 4 quarts did you just add the extra engine oil to the recommended capacity?
I dumped in all 5 quarts and plan on checking before firing it up. Dipstick not installed yet.
Hi my man can u please help my opel corsa bakkie its using so much petrol whts the plan
Curious to know if this would be a good way to add the first 6 qts of oil?
It will work, but it will be slow.
Stay gold.
I did this method and was wondering should the gauge hold the reading or is gonna drop off
Does the oil lubricant the cam and the lifters? Where they make contact?
Yes. All contact surfaces.
Not being a smartass... oil to the rocker arms is the last thing that ever gets oil, so if they are getting oil that means everything else is too, and oil only gets there from traveling up the push rod holes which comes from the lifters. That's why he was turning engine over by hand so all the oil goes through main/rod bearing holes and into crank holes.
@@DanBrino Thanks bro... That's all I wanted to know! Some people like Mike just like to hear themselves talk 😂😂😂
What is the name of the plug that your forcing oil through? I need to know how much to torque that back too so I need the name someone plz help
So the only difference I did was just set my air compressor 30 psi and it won't hold any air at all. What am I doing wrong any ideas? Please
I did my first engine replacement and i did not prime. Can i still do this with the complete installation done?
Doing it now would be pointless if you already filled it with oil and cranked it up. If it still hasn't run yet, sure you can do this at any time, ideally just before the first start.
Wait, you ran the motor before you primed it? Yikes.
Can this port be used to check your real pump pressure???
I was wondering the same thing lol
I wonder what the original relief valve is set to on the sprayer? Just curious how safe it is. Seems like it’d hurt if she blows.
You can still pump the handle, so that means I haven't hit the "relief" point yet. I'm just lazy and don't want to pump :)
Yeah, I pumped it up to 25 PSI by hand really easily. In my opinion, the air compressor isn't necessary, but I still liked having the tire valve to check with a gauge.
@@CoDisafishy how do you get a tire valve on there?
@@elinino5275 I just drilled a hole and popped it in. Tire valves have a ball shaped end to plug the hole so it seals pretty well.
What could cause my m I motor to have oil pressure but no oil on lifters on on fresh rebuild
How are you priming it? How much pressure and time?
@@HTMR I took over after someone else quit. Just helping a friend that wasted his money on a bar stool mechanic. He over tighten valve's that pulled 2 studs. I have started motor and it now runs great. I'm manually oiling rocker arms. Roller lifters 60 psi at Gage. Chevy 383 stroker crate moter. A machine shop changed cam
@@mikelippard3460 Forgot what the oil path is on SBC. It does take a while for the oil to get up there though.
@@HTMR I have ran it 10 times for 30 sec to 1 min, raised rpm up about 1000 last 2 times. Now removed lifters and put in oil, all let air bubbles. Next I'm spinning oil pump to see if oil comes up. Does oil pass cam just before lifters? Is oil gauge after pump and before crank, then cam and lifters. Thinking I need to check cam bearings. I have 60 psi steady and consistent, immediately on start up.
Can you do a video on how you set up your test engine stand?
i would do this just before your first start up not why its on the stand . prime it in the car or truck would be best a fresh coat oil on every thing thats when you will be breaking every thing in like cam and bearings lots of heat
Do you have the oil pan full of oil?
No why?
any trick to installing the tire valve into the bottle?
Remove schrader valve and use a coat hanger wire to feed it through.
You didn't show how you installed the air shrader valve..
How long did it take you to prime the whole system?
Maybe 10-15 min
@@HTMR Not bad. Thank you very much for your video. The best I’ve seen. Gonna use your way, most effective, and inexpensive.
Where can i find the adapter for the oil pressure port?
Vid description
@@HTMR im talking about where the pressure sensor/gauge goes, is it the same fitting?
@@isaiah-lava5.086 Yes, same. Order 2.
NOT A BAD IDEA. I seen other guys open this and just prime the pump so its instantly pumping oil on first start BUT would you still do this for a junkyard engine with its old oil still in there, you bought for $445 canadian/about350usd with 220,000 km /about 150,000 miles?
im not sure how accessible this plug is once engine is installed. the sending unit hole is even less accesible.
No just fire it up.
Is there anyone in central / Southern California that can help me with my Yukon lifter issue. First it was oil pressure sensor gauge . Now lifter with misfire on 7 now Stabiltrak coming on now too I love this car and it ran so strong .. new wheels and tires… last oil change and I’m looking at in my driveway everyday now. Dealer says 10k for a new motor.
Great idea. What weight of oil are you running in this build?
Starting with 5w-30. So far 35-40# at idle.
Awesome
You can also take the spark plugs out and use the starter and turn it over 20 seconds or so and repeat until you get pressure. Also make sure not to over heat the starter but with no spark plugs it doesn’t get to hot at all
I’ve tried that it didn’t really work
@@soggy000unit2 it has too or you have issues, but I also put 7 quarts of oil in it as well. I’ve put together and sold 13 engines this year and I do them all this way and all started having pressure within 3-5 seconds, also the longer you let it spin the higher the pressure gets closer to operating pressure, from all the ones I’ve done I’ve noticed using the starter to prime the pressure is about 10 psi lower than idle pressure. I need to post a UA-cam video explaining and showing everyone what I do.
You will scratch the bearings if you turn an engine over dry too many times
Seems fairly easy and inexpensive compared to the product I was going to buy, thanks for the info!
Thats genius
Just prime the oil filter and use engine assembly lube.
Why not go 1/4 × 1/8 mip
Rotate
90 wait
180 wait
270 wait
DONE
You are priming an oil gallery. If you are priming a galley with oil you are probably going to have a bunch of annoyed sailors but not a primed engine.
Lol😅😅
Soak the pump in oil before installing it, or pour oil in the pickup tube while it's on the stand, zero dollars, just as effective.
Why not jst unplug the ignition coil then spin motor over til the oil pumps up
Because you can catch any problems while the engine is on the stand, not after in the car.
Easiest way I’ve found is to fill through the top oil pressure sender with a funnel till it quits taking anymore. Takes a while but works every time.
I might have to do it that way because my engine is in and the port next to the balancer is blocked by my engine swap mount.
Why didn't you just use a 1/8 npt hose barb fitting? instead of adding another two extra fittings lol
That's what I just did, I skipped that part, don't understand why it's needed
Awesome idea! But - save yourself a stack in brass, and just drill and tap that fitting to 1/4 NPT. ;)
Unless you already had it, in which case... NVM!
Or just get a 1/8 npt to 1/4 hose barb brass fitting
Dig It!!
Why can't u just soak the parts in oil or put assembly lube in them or whatever u have apart then remove the fuel pump fuse and turn key till the oil pressure builds then go a few more turns then start
You can. This method is unless. I own a shop and installed MANY new engines. What I do is pull fuse or relay to disable fuel system. Hook up my computer or gauge and crank till my psi range has been meet and I’ve never had an issue. Also all new or rebuild engines have assembly lube that is designed to lubricate moving parts till oil gets there. Also this system seems flawed because all the oil is going to go back into the crank case first because of the pick up tube and pump have least resistance, that’s why he used all that oil because most of it went back to the crank case
U should sell this kit lmao 😂 I swear I’m sure it would make some moneyb
LOL not interested. Go for it if you want.
"All we have to do is....."
Do u know what its like to get to that port on an in vehicle engine?
Do you know how hard it is to take that port deal off?
I do.
Holy beeep.....
Thank you for the video and take care.
Well then you should have primed while the engine was out LOL.
Noice!
Good mén
5 gallons no pressure while priming
Funny, this said the"easy way," lol it would be one thing if you already had these things ready to go... but he made out like 15 bucks? Come on, the fittings he put into the pressure release were more than 15 bucks, not to mention all the time it takes to get this stuff and he goes further to out in a valve to the sprayer to use his compressor? All kind of "extra." Now, it is pretty neat, but not what I would call the cheap and easy way.
Not $15.00 dollars. The sprayer is more then $15.00.
Man you guys do too damn much for no reason.. every single time I have rebuilt an ls motor I just make sure I use some good assembly lube and then just turn the motor over a couple of times with the starter with the coil packs unplugged ofcourse and that's it..... You sir are completely over doing something for nothing 🤔
WHO IN THE HELL PUTS A MOTOR TOGETHER DRY ?????
THIS IS ABOUT THE MOST STUPID THING I HAVE EVER SEEN.
Who ever said it was assembled dry? You can't prime the pump until it is assembled.
@@HTMR you did. Watch the beginning of your own video.
Everyone primes the engine after its assembled and ready to be test ran. You cant fill the engine full of oil while you’re building it lol
@@intheshoptv so after you put the bearings motor all together there is some law against putting the oil in ?
Your comment makes no sense.
Are you saying the oil can only be put in after the motor is installed?
@@intheshoptv I prelube every moving part in motors I build.
I pour some oil or assembly lube in the oil pump and turn by hand so all the gears are coated and then install on the block.
Once started the oil pressure is 60 to 70 pounds within seconds.
You do it your way.
I do it mine.