Ok this is one of the most realistic and detailed videos I have seen. Thank you 🙏🏽. Props to the whole annoying process and issues we will likely encounter. Great video bro.
I love how yours came right out. Mine was so stuck I had to pull the knuckle. And found both upper and lower control arm ball joints were shot. Turned into me pretty much replacing the whole driver sides suspension...fun times.
Thank you for posting this! I purchased a wheel hub assembly from Rock Auto and was able to replace it without any problems following the instructions on this video. I am no mechanic and this video made it easy. The only snafu I ran into was needing a 36mm deep well axle socket for the axle nut. It cost me an extra $25 at Advanced Auto. So basically for less than $100 and 90 minutes of my time I was able to repair my Jeep myself vs. the $300+ it would’ve cost me to take it to the shop.
this video was extremely helpful, the jeep dealership told me i have a broken front bearing and one in the rear. good thing you made this video because i wasn't about to give them a grand to do this job lol
isn't that awful? it's about $200 in parts, even if you have to go out and buy the right size sockets. a couple hours of time in the garage, and you saved about $800.
Thanks for posting this. Very helpful. I like that you talk about it like a normal person, and that you kept in all the little things that didn't go exactly to plan. It makes it more accessible for those of who are trying to learn.
Thanks! I'm changing the same side bearing on my mom's 2009 tomorrow! Her Jeep has 181,000 miles, it has ONLY needed normal wear parts besides a radiator since new! I have changed the oil every time myself (24 times... every 7,000 or so). Glad to see there are no major surprises with this hub/bearing replacement, looks similar to my 1999 XJ with the addition of an ABS sensor and no 13mm, 12-point socket heads.
*This is exactly what I’m experiencing right at the same humming sound right at the 40-60mph marker. Narrowed it down to either tires or bearing. Needed new tires anyways and it kept going so I’m praying it’s the driver side wheel bearings.🙏🏼*
Best detail video I’ve seen with good quality my 06 GC was making a humming roaring noise and thought it was my driveshaft to find out it was my wheel hub thanks man
Very helpful video, thanks for all of the practical details, had a grinding front passenger wheel bearing on 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 90k miles. I don't own a puller so thought I would attempt to hammer off the hub with a hand sledge like you did. Like a few others, mine was very obstinate, but with enough pounding, it moved enough to fit a screwdriver, then a pry bar, to apply pressure on the other side while continuing to hammer the caliper side until it eventually popped off, took about 20 - 30 minutes with rests. I could not get past the internet disagreements over whether the 36mm CV axle nut should be torqued to 100 or 175 ft lbs, so went with 100.
You totally got me when you put the amti-seize on the hub BEFORE you installed the brake rotor... I know its years since you made this video, but I may soon be doing this same on my 2009 GC 3,0 CRD.. and you are detailed enough to be a huge help!!
I'm in upstate NY. And I have been using anti-seize on everything for over 30 years, even the hub face so it dosen't seize the rim to hub. Hoping I don't have to explain a "mule-kick" to my wife,over the phone, 100 miles away. If she has a flat tire.😆
Yeah. For sure. Keep on talkin'. Tell us some stories about yesteryear and driving the milk to market. Granny on the porch. A simpler time. Sorry. Got off on a tangent. Yes definitely appreciate the talking. Let's us know what your experiencing. A lot of times just the tone of the voice tells us whether you're getting aggravated or it's easy you'd be surprised how many little cues like that can help you on what to expect when you're doing a similar job. Thanks again for the video. I work on For.ula race cars and have done this and bearings on dozens of vehicles. Besides all the race cars have had to do it on a whole variety of 63 Bonneville 69 GTO 83 BMW 96 Grand Cherokee 02 Ford escape - besides a whole assortment of friends' Fiat MG TR Chevys and Dodge now I have been blessed to do it on an 06 Grand Cherokee. Lucky guy. Actually kind of looking forward to do it because the noise is horrendous and I know what will happen if I don't deal with it... Expediently.
@11:25 : Wow, it came out with gentle tapping! Had you prepared it earlier? I took about 2 hours on each side, alternating between chiselling into the joint with chisels I had ground to a fine angle, and belting the hub flange with a 15 lb sledge hammer with about 15" of room to swing it.
in all my videos I do them real time. I am positive this is not the OG bearing. on most GM cars I have use a air hammer and sledge hammer to get those bearing out. and don't get me started on press in bearings. the joys of living in the Salt Belt
Thanks for this great video. Saved me a bundle of cash doing this myself.... got a hub assembly from jeepchryslerparts for £55 and did this in 3 hours. Just make sure you have a deep 36mm impact socket for the hub nut folks. And 15mm impact sockets for the hub bolts. Great video, thanks!
Hi there, hope your still online, just wanted to say GREAT video, very helpful. I have a 2008 WK and have hte same noise from the drivers side and am going to have a go myself. Also as an aside, well done looking after your parents. again thanks for this video
Great video! Just a few comments that may help people out: When I do this job, I ensure that the bore in which the bearing hub sits is thoroughly cleaned out. There may be some that here, that will make reassembly more difficult. I also throw a thin application of bearing grease to the bore, so it slides in. I make sure the sounds are clean and also apply grease to the splines. The torque for the (3) 15mm hub boots (which I also clean on a wire wheel) is 75 ftlbs and the 36mms axle but is 175 ftlbs.
I always change unit bearings in pairs, if one is failing the other isnt far behind it. Peace of mind. Torque everything to factory specs. Pretty good video
Nice to see you helping your parents, that's a good son! Question: why not use the impact to remove the bolts holding on the bearing? a few suggestions: clean up mating surfaces with carb cleaner anti seize on the bearing bolts, spline grease on the CV axle shaft splines, anti seize were bearing fits into steering knuckle. Also anti seize on the hub where the brake rotor mates up. All makes for the next time to go easier.
Thank you for your video, It helped me to understand what the dealership was telling me needed to be fixed. I also question the 6 hours they quoted although I realize that you stopped the camera a time or two. I wonder if they trumped up the shop time charge a bit? Anyway, your parents are fortunate to have such a helpful caring son.
Carla Gamper this is less then a 45 minuet job. It’s even faster if it’s a rwd Jeep. It DOES NOT take six hours. Also the best bearing to install is a timken or mevotech. I have experienced premature failure and abs issues with other brands.
Also I will use an impact to snug the bolts down for the first tightening but then use a torque wrench to get it exactly where they should be. Even on wheel lug nuts.
100 lb/ft for the big nut. Lots of threads about this, but most say 100 is the number. My XJ was 175 so it sounds low (as others have commented in threads).
Would it sound like a swooshing sound like something us rubbing it doesn't stop even when I apply brakes? I only hear it when doing around 25 to 35 mph. I brought it in they said it could be bearing but no play in wheel. Any info would be helpful. Keep up the good work on videos! Thanks
In the minute 11:55, you can clearly see the damage that happened to the shaft due to the hammer hitting on the outer side of the gears that the hopper will ride on. For this reason, the correct methods, techniques and appropriate tools must be used for this purpose so as not to expose people to danger
So, I thought I heard you say in this video, that you would comment or post a video with your thoughts on the 4 warnings coming on at the same time. The ABS, the Traction control, the Service 4WD, and the service Electronic Brake system warnings. Did you find they all went away when you changed the wheel bearing? Did you post a new video with the explanation... I have been searching, but no luck... Great video, thank!
Good job but since you used anti seize on the wheel to hub contact I think you could have brushed everything and put some elsewhere too in the event you need to replace the axles
jim dandy great point. In the case of the jeep, because it's my parents and they are older and don't drive much replace more parts on this jeep isn't something I'm too concerned about.
Alex so I have a whole air system in my garage now. I spent a lot of air tools. Now I never use them. The most use the air compressor gets is to air up tires. I have invested into Milwaukee M12 line of cordless power tools. They are great! They also make the junkyard runs way faster.
It's ironic he mentions torque specs, but he hasn't used a torque wrench. And he pounds on a ratchet with a hammer. Use a cheater extension but he was brought up properly so no cheating. Seriously !
A couple of questions: 1)What size is the socket for the CVJ nut? 2) I recently replaced the ABS sensor on the front pass side of my 09 GC. Now, 2 weeks later, Im starting to get a humming noise between 35-60 mph. Trying to pinpoint which bearing, so would the ABS sensor replacement be indicative of a bad bearing?
I think it was 36mm. And no. Replacing the abs speed sensor would not effect the bearing. To find out which bearing it is without taking anything apart, while driving turn the steering wheel left and right. If you turn the steering wheel to the left and the noise gets quieter or goes away it's the right bearing and if you turn right it's the left
I kinda think that when a WSS gives an error it could be because the bearing is starting to go out and damaging the WSS. Metal shavings from the bearing getting on the Tone ring or the sensor. You maybe put a new sensor on then it temporally fixes the problem . Then the bearing goes out and you end up having to replace the whole hub that comes with a new WSS ??
Good evening I have a 2007 cherokee when I get to 100 km / h the front tire buzzes on the driver's side and I release the accelerator and it stops buzzing and I crush it again and it comes back but if I go 120 km / h it takes away it thinks it could be the ball bearing
Question, I have a 2011 jeep grand Cherokee overland. I went to the dealership to calibrate the air suspension. They weren't able to get it to calibrate it. He suggested changeing out the bearings and struts. Does changeing them have anything to do with my air ride suspension?
I think you need to take it someplace else. Unless there is a dry rot or a hole in the air struts there’s no need to replace. Wheel bearing have nothing to do with air leveling system. If they are talking about strut bearings these jeeps don’t have strut bearings.
now the abs light is on and the check engine light as well I took it to the jeep dealer and a minth later it came back after changing me $1740 to fix it and replace the radiator...05 grand Cherokee larado
I know this wont help you but for future intrepid travelers. Get a map gas torch and heat the steering knuckle around the bearing it may take a few thermal cycle. Also you can put a cold chisel on the hub and hit it in a way that it rotates just to break the corrosion. Watch south main auto's hub assembly video and deal with that issue a lot. I live in Ohio and have done about 5 hub assembly on different model cars and every one has been a night mare to get off.
I drove tonight, and this sounds like the issue. I have a 2012 JGC 4x4 Laredo, 39000+ miles. It sounded like a metal on metal grinding driver side front, only happens when i accelerate. Is this similar symptoms you had? I have been researching a little, and have read drive shaft, motor mounts, transfer case, wheel hub bearing. Good video, hope this is the issue seems like an easy fix to bang out, more than dropping 1800 on anything. What do you think and how do you troubleshoot to ensure this is it?
justin burtyk it wasn't metal on metal. It was a loud hum. The sound would go away during turning to left. The rpms where higher then they should be because the engine has to work harder and Jeep slowed down way faster from speed when I took my foot off the gas. It's hard for me to describe a bad bearing without seeing, hearing and feeling.
6 years later and this video helped me today, thank you! I hope your parents are doing well
Ok this is one of the most realistic and detailed videos I have seen. Thank you 🙏🏽. Props to the whole annoying process and issues we will likely encounter. Great video bro.
I love how yours came right out. Mine was so stuck I had to pull the knuckle. And found both upper and lower control arm ball joints were shot. Turned into me pretty much replacing the whole driver sides suspension...fun times.
Thank you for posting this! I purchased a wheel hub assembly from Rock Auto and was able to replace it without any problems following the instructions on this video. I am no mechanic and this video made it easy. The only snafu I ran into was needing a 36mm deep well axle socket for the axle nut. It cost me an extra $25 at Advanced Auto. So basically for less than $100 and 90 minutes of my time I was able to repair my Jeep myself vs. the $300+ it would’ve cost me to take it to the shop.
7 years later and its still the best video for this job. Well done!
Very HELPFUL video...step by step with LOTS of "watch out for's".
Glad you help your parents. You had proper upbringing!
Very helpful thank you
It's early 2019 and I have a roaring wheel bearing on my 2007 Grand Cherokee. Your video is very helpful! I can see just what to do. Thank you!
this video was extremely helpful, the jeep dealership told me i have a broken front bearing and one in the rear. good thing you made this video because i wasn't about to give them a grand to do this job lol
isn't that awful? it's about $200 in parts, even if you have to go out and buy the right size sockets. a couple hours of time in the garage, and you saved about $800.
Thanks for posting this. Very helpful. I like that you talk about it like a normal person, and that you kept in all the little things that didn't go exactly to plan. It makes it more accessible for those of who are trying to learn.
thank you. I am glad you enjoyed it
Thanks! I'm changing the same side bearing on my mom's 2009 tomorrow! Her Jeep has 181,000 miles, it has ONLY needed normal wear parts besides a radiator since new! I have changed the oil every time myself (24 times... every 7,000 or so). Glad to see there are no major surprises with this hub/bearing replacement, looks similar to my 1999 XJ with the addition of an ABS sensor and no 13mm, 12-point socket heads.
*This is exactly what I’m experiencing right at the same humming sound right at the 40-60mph marker. Narrowed it down to either tires or bearing. Needed new tires anyways and it kept going so I’m praying it’s the driver side wheel bearings.🙏🏼*
Very kind of you to help you parents out. Well done
Best detail video I’ve seen with good quality my 06 GC was making a humming roaring noise and thought it was my driveshaft to find out it was my wheel hub thanks man
You are a absolute blessing!!!
I did the passenger side bearing on my 06 thanks to your video!
Very helpful video, thanks for all of the practical details, had a grinding front passenger wheel bearing on 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 90k miles. I don't own a puller so thought I would attempt to hammer off the hub with a hand sledge like you did. Like a few others, mine was very obstinate, but with enough pounding, it moved enough to fit a screwdriver, then a pry bar, to apply pressure on the other side while continuing to hammer the caliper side until it eventually popped off, took about 20 - 30 minutes with rests. I could not get past the internet disagreements over whether the 36mm CV axle nut should be torqued to 100 or 175 ft lbs, so went with 100.
Glad I could help. To my understanding 100ft lbs is for the regular grand Cherokee. The 175 is for the srt8
Good on you for taking such good care of your parents vehicle. Really enjoyed your step-by-step.
You totally got me when you put the amti-seize on the hub BEFORE you installed the brake rotor... I know its years since you made this video, but I may soon be doing this same on my 2009 GC 3,0 CRD.. and you are detailed enough to be a huge help!!
I'm in upstate NY. And I have been using anti-seize on everything for over 30 years, even the hub face so it dosen't seize the rim to hub. Hoping I don't have to explain a "mule-kick" to my wife,over the phone, 100 miles away. If she has a flat tire.😆
Way better video than the yokel I watched on another channel. GJ!
@@jerrye8778 thank you
Yeah. For sure. Keep on talkin'. Tell us some stories about yesteryear and driving the milk to market. Granny on the porch. A simpler time. Sorry. Got off on a tangent.
Yes definitely appreciate the talking. Let's us know what your experiencing. A lot of times just the tone of the voice tells us whether you're getting aggravated or it's easy you'd be surprised how many little cues like that can help you on what to expect when you're doing a similar job.
Thanks again for the video.
I work on For.ula race cars and have done this and bearings on dozens of vehicles. Besides all the race cars have had to do it on a whole variety of 63 Bonneville 69 GTO 83 BMW 96 Grand Cherokee 02 Ford escape - besides a whole assortment of friends' Fiat MG TR Chevys and Dodge now I have been blessed to do it on an 06 Grand Cherokee. Lucky guy.
Actually kind of looking forward to do it because the noise is horrendous and I know what will happen if I don't deal with it... Expediently.
Need mine done on my 07 Jeep Grand Cherokee by my mechanic. Now I know what he has to do. Thanks Much.
@11:25 : Wow, it came out with gentle tapping! Had you prepared it earlier? I took about 2 hours on each side, alternating between chiselling into the joint with chisels I had ground to a fine angle, and belting the hub flange with a 15 lb sledge hammer with about 15" of room to swing it.
in all my videos I do them real time. I am positive this is not the OG bearing. on most GM cars I have use a air hammer and sledge hammer to get those bearing out. and don't get me started on press in bearings. the joys of living in the Salt Belt
Great video, How you managed to do it without swearing is amazing, I seem to do an awful lot when I work on things, lol.
You are a good son. I know your parents appreciate you!
Very informative, the camera angles were great, got to learn exactly how to do it. Excellent video.
Always torque the axle nut to specification. too loose or too tight will cause premature bearing failure
Thanks for this great video. Saved me a bundle of cash doing this myself.... got a hub assembly from jeepchryslerparts for £55 and did this in 3 hours. Just make sure you have a deep 36mm impact socket for the hub nut folks. And 15mm impact sockets for the hub bolts. Great video, thanks!
Thankxx for such a good video man. These mechanic shops are over priced
William t glad you enjoyed the video. They truly are.
Hi there, hope your still online, just wanted to say GREAT video, very helpful. I have a 2008 WK and have hte same noise from the drivers side and am going to have a go myself. Also as an aside, well done looking after your parents. again thanks for this video
Great video!
Just a few comments that may help people out:
When I do this job, I ensure that the bore in which the bearing hub sits is thoroughly cleaned out. There may be some that here, that will make reassembly more difficult. I also throw a thin application of bearing grease to the bore, so it slides in. I make sure the sounds are clean and also apply grease to the splines. The torque for the (3) 15mm hub boots (which I also clean on a wire wheel) is 75 ftlbs and the 36mms axle but is 175 ftlbs.
× ...splines are clean...
I always change unit bearings in pairs, if one is failing the other isnt far behind it. Peace of mind. Torque everything to factory specs.
Pretty good video
FYI.. put some of that antisieze on the mating aluminum/steel surface when you put the bearing back in...
Nice to see you helping your parents, that's a good son! Question: why not use the impact to remove the bolts holding on the bearing?
a few suggestions:
clean up mating surfaces with carb cleaner
anti seize on the bearing bolts, spline grease on the CV axle shaft splines, anti seize were bearing fits into steering knuckle. Also anti seize on the hub where the brake rotor mates up. All makes for the next time to go easier.
Thankyou very much. Couldn't figure out why the disc wouldn't come off until your video
Thanks for the video bud. And hope your parents health is good! Good of you to help your parents! Props..
Very helpful thanks for the lesson
I am just waiting on my parts to come in & I will be attempting to this job
Glad it was helpful!
Hey great video I need to install the brake dust shield is anyway with out take the hub out
Brilliant.. going to do mine this week. Cheers from the uk
Thank you for the video was very helpful our bearing went the other day 2007 jeep grand cherokee
My wife has a 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo found you video great video easy to understand thanks
Fantastic video, step by step instructions. I'm away to attempt this on my wife's car tomorrow. But it's going to be 36°F outside.
glad you like the video. I would love for it to 36 here. I'd be working on cars in shorts
what size is the cv shaft nut? cheers
this dude cracks me up. he's the shit though
Thanks
Sir, you just saved me a couple hundred £££!I can't thank you enough!Have a nice day!
You're welcomes. Glad I could keep money in your wallet.
Made easy helpful for me to be able to do mine. Love the way you explained too
Thank you for your video, It helped me to understand what the dealership was telling me needed to be fixed. I also question the 6 hours they quoted although I realize that you stopped the camera a time or two. I wonder if they trumped up the shop time charge a bit? Anyway, your parents are fortunate to have such a helpful caring son.
Carla Gamper this is less then a 45 minuet job. It’s even faster if it’s a rwd Jeep. It DOES NOT take six hours. Also the best bearing to install is a timken or mevotech. I have experienced premature failure and abs issues with other brands.
Superb video!!! Thank you very much for this complete guide!!!!
Also I will use an impact to snug the bolts down for the first tightening but then use a torque wrench to get it exactly where they should be. Even on wheel lug nuts.
100 lb/ft for the big nut. Lots of threads about this, but most say 100 is the number. My XJ was 175 so it sounds low (as others have commented in threads).
Thanks for the great video. Hope your parents are doing well!
Thanks very much for your time and video very very helpful
Would it sound like a swooshing sound like something us rubbing it doesn't stop even when I apply brakes? I only hear it when doing around 25 to 35 mph. I brought it in they said it could be bearing but no play in wheel. Any info would be helpful. Keep up the good work on videos! Thanks
nice video nd explanation thanks for sharing
doing this today! Thanks for the Video!! Keep talking it makes it more interesting!
In the minute 11:55, you can clearly see the damage that happened to the shaft due to the hammer hitting on the outer side of the gears that the hopper will ride on. For this reason, the correct methods, techniques and appropriate tools must be used for this purpose so as not to expose people to danger
Nicely done man. Thanks for sharing this!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for your efforts. Great video. It'll help lots of people.
But what size is the axle nut!?!?! Dammit I can't find this info lol this is my 3rd video 🤣
36 mm
@@ShadwSlaya thanks man, I said f*ck it and bought a 34 and 36 lol I was out of town in my buddys garage with little tools
Its a 35mm on my 09 jeep grand Cherokee
very helpful...thanks...blessings and well wishes to your parent's
Hey Man awesome video, Im thinking in do in it myself but the only thing you didn't said is what size that sucket is to remove the axle nut
36 mm deep socket
So, I thought I heard you say in this video, that you would comment or post a video with your thoughts on the 4 warnings coming on at the same time. The ABS, the Traction control, the Service 4WD, and the service Electronic Brake system warnings. Did you find they all went away when you changed the wheel bearing? Did you post a new video with the explanation... I have been searching, but no luck... Great video, thank!
So even though the code said front abs it turns out the the issue was the rear wheel bearings
@@jth1987leb and all 4 codes went away once you replaced the bad bearing?
Thanks for video! Do you know what is the size of that big socket on wheel bearing hub? Is it 35? I have 2009 WK Laredo.
I cannot remember off hand but I think it is in the comments.
Dude, does the passenger side not have a axle nut? Mine doesn't have one on the passenger side. 2013 jeep grand cherokee limited 2wd v6.
Mine was a 35mm. The guy at O’Reillys said if you have limited slip, it’s a 35mm
Nice job. Very good tutorial.
Thank you very much for this video, it was very helpful.
you're welcome. I am glad I could help
If the sound goes away turning left would it be left bearing bad?
very good by the way but how many miles was on that jeep ,
tony, may I can’t remember at the time of filming. But now it has 178xxx miles.
Would a CV Joint cause binding? Like a wheel trying to lockup momentarily? Thanks
Great video. Do you know if the 2007 SRT8 uses the same bearings?
Tony Singh I believe so but the torque specs are different
Good job but since you used anti seize on the wheel to hub contact I think you could have brushed everything and put some elsewhere too in the event you need to replace the axles
jim dandy great point. In the case of the jeep, because it's my parents and they are older and don't drive much replace more parts on this jeep isn't something I'm too concerned about.
Excellent video, Invest in an air impact wrench and you will thank yourself, those have so much more power than the battery ones.
Alex so I have a whole air system in my garage now. I spent a lot of air tools. Now I never use them. The most use the air compressor gets is to air up tires. I have invested into Milwaukee M12 line of cordless power tools. They are great! They also make the junkyard runs way faster.
@@jth1987leb That is true, the cordless impacts are helpful if you are working away from your garage.
not the good battery ones they dont. air is obsolete for cars
Good job. You're a good son.👍
Great video bro I have the same issue with my 2010 srt8 Jeep and I just got my new hub in the mail I’m about to change it soon thanks!
Glad I could help. Just be mindful that the torque specs for the srt8 are different than the regular grand Cherokees.
It's ironic he mentions torque specs, but he hasn't used a torque wrench. And he pounds on a ratchet with a hammer. Use a cheater extension but he was brought up properly so no cheating. Seriously !
Keith Ameerali calm down Karen
@@jth1987leb Well I wouldn't be taking tips from this guy.
Good job,well done,what’s size your impact tool,seems so small,works good anyways 👍👍👍God bless you,you are good son
Thanks. I think I was using the Milwaukee M18 line of tools back then. I only use the M12 line now. Much smaller and lots of power.
very good video and helpful thanks brother....
wath tipe of stuff you put over the new bearing is that any tipe off glue?
Great vid, well done....
A couple of questions:
1)What size is the socket for the CVJ nut?
2) I recently replaced the ABS sensor on the front pass side of my 09 GC. Now, 2 weeks later, Im starting to get a humming noise between 35-60 mph. Trying to pinpoint which bearing, so would the ABS sensor replacement be indicative of a bad bearing?
I think it was 36mm. And no. Replacing the abs speed sensor would not effect the bearing. To find out which bearing it is without taking anything apart, while driving turn the steering wheel left and right. If you turn the steering wheel to the left and the noise gets quieter or goes away it's the right bearing and if you turn right it's the left
+Joshua Harden thank you sir. It's that bearing. This video will be very helpful!
I kinda think that when a WSS gives an error it could be because the bearing is starting to go out and damaging the WSS. Metal shavings from the bearing getting on the Tone ring or the sensor. You maybe put a new sensor on then it temporally fixes the problem . Then the bearing goes out and you end up having to replace the whole hub that comes with a new WSS ??
It is 36mm but use an 8 point socket not 16 point.
I would use a 6 point on a hex nut. Not an 8
thanks for the video help out a lot
How do you take the rear wheel hub off a Jeep Grand Cherokee 2014
Great bloke....really helpful
pjr9532 welcomes. Glad I could help
Would you happen to have a part # for the O-ring? or the size?
I wish you would have shown how much play was in the wheel bearing before you removed the wheel and tire
Nice video well spoken keep them coming.👍
On a 07 Grand Cherokee.When pushing the piston back do u need to loosen the master cylinder cap
No you don’t
Good evening I have a 2007 cherokee when I get to 100 km / h the front tire buzzes on the driver's side and I release the accelerator and it stops buzzing and I crush it again and it comes back but if I go 120 km / h it takes away it thinks it could be the ball bearing
I’d say bearing
So no washer.. the washer goes behind the hub?
Clear video 👍👍👍
Question, I have a 2011 jeep grand Cherokee overland. I went to the dealership to calibrate the air suspension. They weren't able to get it to calibrate it. He suggested changeing out the bearings and struts. Does changeing them have anything to do with my air ride suspension?
I think you need to take it someplace else. Unless there is a dry rot or a hole in the air struts there’s no need to replace. Wheel bearing have nothing to do with air leveling system. If they are talking about strut bearings these jeeps don’t have strut bearings.
now the abs light is on and the check engine light as well I took it to the jeep dealer and a minth later it came back after changing me $1740 to fix it and replace the radiator...05 grand Cherokee larado
Kindly thanks for your video, nice speaking!
What kind of noise was your bearing making and at what speed did the bearing start making noise?
Do I need to purchase an entire new hub assembly or can I just get the wheel bearing jtself?
The hub assembly and bearing are one assembly
Yes very helpful thank you
Happy for you that yours came off with just a few taps of a hammer. I have been pounding away at mine for over an hour now.....great video though!
I know this wont help you but for future intrepid travelers. Get a map gas torch and heat the steering knuckle around the bearing it may take a few thermal cycle. Also you can put a cold chisel on the hub and hit it in a way that it rotates just to break the corrosion. Watch south main auto's hub assembly video and deal with that issue a lot. I live in Ohio and have done about 5 hub assembly on different model cars and every one has been a night mare to get off.
Wht size sockets for the cv shaft bolt.
Good Job! Mine is a 2014, I hope the process is the same.....i am going to buy the part now!
Thank You
It’s pretty much the same
and for goodness sake man... wire brush some of the rust and crud off of things.
What happens if you don’t replace the rubber ring.mine don’t have one
What size sockets did you use and for what?
good job, could've clean those bolt threads an the area after removing the Hub but other than that great job boss!
I drove tonight, and this sounds like the issue. I have a 2012 JGC 4x4 Laredo, 39000+ miles. It sounded like a metal on metal grinding driver side front, only happens when i accelerate. Is this similar symptoms you had? I have been researching a little, and have read drive shaft, motor mounts, transfer case, wheel hub bearing. Good video, hope this is the issue seems like an easy fix to bang out, more than dropping 1800 on anything. What do you think and how do you troubleshoot to ensure this is it?
justin burtyk it wasn't metal on metal. It was a loud hum. The sound would go away during turning to left. The rpms where higher then they should be because the engine has to work harder and Jeep slowed down way faster from speed when I took my foot off the gas. It's hard for me to describe a bad bearing without seeing, hearing and feeling.
Joshua Harden well any ideas what might be going on than?
justin burtyk I would say it's the bearing.
Any idea the Knurl diameter of the wheel hub assembly studs?