I just did this repair for a buddy. Pushing it out by backing out the mounting bolts a bit and hitting them really doesn’t work. At least not in the rust belt. There is no good way to access to swing a hammer at them even with extensions and sockets. I found that using some long bolts that have a diameter slightly smaller that the lug bolts so the slip through the hub and using those to push it out worked best. I had a high grade stainless bolt that was only threaded about 1/3. Put the bolt through the wheel hub, stacked some washers and a nut. As you tighten the bolt it pushes against the spindle and backs the bearing/hub assembly out. One side fought me and destroyed two bolts and nuts so I drilled a hole in the hub, used a much larger diameter bolt and it pushed the bearing right out. South Main Auto has a video on how to do this on an explorer on their UA-cam
I've also had the pleasure of trying to remove a rear wheel bearing on a KL and it's tough! However, what worked very well for me (and I suspect much easier than a slide hammer) was partially backing out the wheel-bearing retaining bolts on the back of the knuckle and then using the appropriate 6 point socket and a long extension to tap on the bolts. It pushes the bearing assembly out from behind instead of pulling on it. At least in my case, out in 5 minutes as opposed to 3 hours.
Just a note, the four wheel hub bolts that retain the hub to knuckle according to service manual are one time use, must install new bolts. Not sure if it's a stretch bolt or because of the thread lock compound.
9:40 I don't know but is'n it possible to screw off the bearing with a longer lug bolt that will push the bearing out just like some rotors are made to get them off as you said?
seems strange to have to replace all those parts when their only 4 years old??? i can see having to replace the brake pads (as they wear) but to have to replace the bearings and rotors already doesn't speak well to the quality of the parts.
I would just remove the whole hub from strut, ball joint, control arm, axel, etc and work on the bench. Use a threaded rod with some nuts, and the correct sized washers (bearing specific) and slide the bearing out using a big wrench. Save your knees and time.
I just did this repair for a buddy. Pushing it out by backing out the mounting bolts a bit and hitting them really doesn’t work. At least not in the rust belt. There is no good way to access to swing a hammer at them even with extensions and sockets. I found that using some long bolts that have a diameter slightly smaller that the lug bolts so the slip through the hub and using those to push it out worked best. I had a high grade stainless bolt that was only threaded about 1/3. Put the bolt through the wheel hub, stacked some washers and a nut. As you tighten the bolt it pushes against the spindle and backs the bearing/hub assembly out. One side fought me and destroyed two bolts and nuts so I drilled a hole in the hub, used a much larger diameter bolt and it pushed the bearing right out. South Main Auto has a video on how to do this on an explorer on their UA-cam
This is exactly how it's done. Well done!
I've also had the pleasure of trying to remove a rear wheel bearing on a KL and it's tough! However, what worked very well for me (and I suspect much easier than a slide hammer) was partially backing out the wheel-bearing retaining bolts on the back of the knuckle and then using the appropriate 6 point socket and a long extension to tap on the bolts. It pushes the bearing assembly out from behind instead of pulling on it. At least in my case, out in 5 minutes as opposed to 3 hours.
Just a note, the four wheel hub bolts that retain the hub to knuckle according to service manual are one time use, must install new bolts. Not sure if it's a stretch bolt or because of the thread lock compound.
Will it be the same bolts on the back on grand Cherokee trying to get mine off
9:40 I don't know but is'n it possible to screw off the bearing with a longer lug bolt that will push the bearing out just like some rotors are made to get them off as you said?
Thank you for the instructions. Very helpful during my rotor replacement of 2016 Jeep Cherokee
What’s the part number of bearing
Are you sure this is a 2015? I wasn’t tracking 2015’s had push to start
Yes it’s a 2015 and has push to start.
What kind of miles were you at on a 2015 that you had to replace bearings that soon?
Question. What signs did you have that the bearing was out?
@@Type5Reviews Thanks for the response. I may be in the same situation. Thanks for the video.
What size -type are those hub bolts ? E Torx?
E14
seems strange to have to replace all those parts when their only 4 years old??? i can see having to replace the brake pads (as they wear) but to have to replace the bearings and rotors already doesn't speak well to the quality of the parts.
I would just remove the whole hub from strut, ball joint, control arm, axel, etc and work on the bench. Use a threaded rod with some nuts, and the correct sized washers (bearing specific) and slide the bearing out using a big wrench. Save your knees and time.
Rented. 😂