Pt. 1 of 2, Jeep Grand Cherokee WK Front Axle Differential Isolator Bushings Replacement. Part 1
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- PART 1 of 2. 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited WK Front Axle/Differential Isolator Bushings Replacement.
WATCH ME WRENCH DISCLAIMER:
I am not a trained, licensed or certified automotive mechanic nor am I a professional automotive repair facility. Please consult with your local dealership and or a licensed and certified mechanic before working on any vehicle and make sure you utilize any and all safety equipment and safety measures at all times. It is also advisable to reference your vehicle’s owner’s manual for proper maintenance of your vehicle and for safety tips when working on your vehicle. The sole purpose of this video is solely for entertainment purposes as I document and share my build, that’s it. Due to factors beyond the control of WATCH ME WRENCH, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. WATCH ME WRENCH assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video or any of my videos. Use this information at your own risk if you elect to do so. WATCH ME WRENCH recommends safe practices at all times when working on any type of motorized vehicles and or with tools seen, utilized or mentioned in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of WATCH ME WRENCH, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular results. Any injury, damage, or any type of loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, vehicle, failure to utilize proper safety equipment and safety measures or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer/user and not WATCH ME WRENCH. Please wrench safely.
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A thanks to the author posting this tutorial. Here are a few things that helped me out while doing this:
1. you need swivels and extensions of both 1/4" and 1/2" sockets.
2. Definitely get a nice quality impact wrench , cordless is cool too, but you definitely need a breaker bar on some bolts.
3. Separate the lower and upper ball joints (upper control arm), by using a "ball-joint fork separater/pickle". Works like a charm.
4. You will need minimally an electrical drill/impact for screwing back in the nuts on the lowers and uppers because the bolts seems to spin in the housing. Prying them together with a prybar helped prevent some of the slippage.( i hope this wasnt soley mine )
5. Lastly, I also rented (free of charge at autozone) a ball joint press to press the bushing back into the housing. But what was honestly way inside of the joint-press kit was a huge socket that was like 34mm which perfectly fit the outer housing of the bushings. Slow and steady strikes with a hand-held sledgehammer meant I didn't have to fuck with all those different adapters in the kit AND I had more control over how the bushing was being seated into the housing.
Again, Thanks so much for taking the time and effort to record while doing this!
-2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited Edition WK 5.7L Hemi
Wow, thank you for all of that helpful tips. Im sure many folks will appreciate that. Thanks for taking the time to write in and thanks for watching MrNurseInColorado.
I just did this job without having to split the suspension down and without removing the front diff/axle from my WK. Same thing, top bushing was wrecked. If you put the car up on ramps, support the diff on a jack, undo the propshaft, undo the front, side and top bush bolts, then slowly lower the diff onto axle stands, from where you can wiggle it forward and then rotate the rear of the diff down, giving clear access to the top bush mount. Then use a fine hacksaw blade to cut two parallel slices into the bush casing, prise the "slice" out then the whole bush casing easily pulls out with pliers, even by hand. Then to simplify installation, if you don't have a hydraulic press, make a single 0.5mm cut into the new bush casing, then it can compress a bit and will go in so much easier and is still pretty tight in there. Check out my rather amateur vid showing some of what i did. This great vid here from "watch me wrench" inspired me to attempt this job, and i thought of a few ways to do this on the car and make it easier. Good luck with yours folks!
Thanks for the comment and positive feedback.
watch me wrench rules. keep up the good work.
Thanks for the support
This bushing problem is probably is the knocking noise at the front end on my 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland. Thanks for the video. Now I now what to fix most likely.
Glad to help
I've had my 07 Grand Cherokee for 8 years. It started making noise. My shop changed out Front differential isolator. Drives and shifts smooth as butter now.
Thanks for sharing
@Julius Monroe how much did u pay for the labor overall?
@@lstruggy 2nd or more accurately what's the book hours for this job
Lifted the Diff a little and crammed some 3/8" hose in the lower holes of the bushing and it shut it up till i fixed it a year later. ;-)
Thats a smart trick and thanks for watching.
DiglDrone, where did you cram some rubber at?
Thank you so much for this video !!!!
Thank you so much for watching my video and thanks for the positive comment.
I like the blue tape trick. And underneath yours looks cherry - the underside of my '07 XK looks like they built it out of pieces recovered from the friggin Titanic.
Hysterical and thanks for watching
Just did the bush in my 2010 jeep Grand Cherokee V6 diesel today. Now there was some difference to my car, first there was no exhaust pipe on the side with the top bush mount, so plenty of room. Second, my bolt was the other way round, made it hard to get a spanner on the bolt head, but after I got the nut off, very easy to just use a long punch to knock out the bolt.
Also, using the new polyethylene bushes, a little tricky to press in, but all good, only now need to get the diff back in place and get those pesky bolts back in.
Thanks for watching and I hope my video was of some help to you.
@@WATCHMEWRENCH yeah it did help a lot, no clucking when going in and out gear now, but I still have an annoying rattle under there somewhere, no one can find it.
The blue tape on the swivels is good, however electrical tape works much better. Sometimes you can get lucky and a threaded rod connector will work as an allen, the hex used to tighten acts as the allen wrench
Thanks for watching Charlie and thanks for the advise. Sounds like you've done this a few times.
that's sweet you got a lift in your garage.
Thank you
Tip for you .. next time you don't have a large Allen wrench ... find a bolt that's head fits in it, put it in there and if you don' have a welder to weld a handle on it clamp a vice grip on the threaded part and you have a make shift Allen wrench.
What a great idea. Thanks for sharing. I will keep that in mind.
Parts play store for all three of those differential bushing. We’re almost 300 bucks I found them online for $28 for all three of them. I just did my 2006 jeep.
Are the OEM parts are cheap China Crap?
I recently changed my both front upper and lower control arms, cv axles, tie rods and complete struts on both sides and im still getting that same crackling sound
Did you check and change out the isolator bushings?
@@WATCHMEWRENCH i have not but ill go ahead and order that part, its for a 09 jeep SRT
@@El69_ you may have your diff going out
What ended up being the problem? You said crackling, I'm going to guess your propeller shaft CV joint off the transfer case was gone.
@@jaydavidson4592 yes! That sound travels up the shaft to the passenger side front and it makes it sound like the passenger front axle is bad.
Just watched Brians Mobile vid. on a Hemi Commander with a Hemi with the same problem, 30K not very much use considering all the work necessary to replaceWouldn't hurt to buy a shop manual if you are going to keep it, I have a 1996 ZJ 5.2 and bought a perfect shop manual for under 60.00 with the supplement
Thanks Jim
The front drive shaft (ie transfer case to diff) was in your way at 11:40, but it comes out easily. Just move it back alongside/under the TC and the front can then be lowered to pass it forwards and out under the crossmember. I'm not sure if it could be done with the older models with a cruciform UJ at the rear though.
Hello Duke, thank you for watching and thank you for the advise. You are probably right but I may have not even unbolted the driveshaft at the transfer case, I dont remember at the moment but perhaps thats why I left it laying there. But it was in my way but I managed to finish this task which I hope I will never have to do again. Again, thank you for watching and thanks for the help.
Duke Nukem so you're saying if I undo the Driveline in the front I will be able to lower the front differential?
Yes you should be able too if you have the same year GC with and drive-train as I do. Perhaps there might be a difference if you a a 6 cylinder GC but that is how i did it.
I have a bad bushing as well .what if i dont fix it? I dont have a lift and don't have money to fix it at the moment. What's the worse case scenario safety wise though ?
If your uncertain, if you dont have the skills or the right tools then dont do this job. Its not easy.
@@WATCHMEWRENCH ive changed timing belts and drive shafts and so on but know about this job . i was wondering what's the worst thing that can happen if I continue to drive with it like that ?
I can tell you what happened to my '07 Grand Cherokee for driving with a bad bushing(s) for too long. I just had all three bushings replaced at a cost of $915 labor including tax (I bought the bushings first). The mechanic informed me that the axle housing tube has a 1/8 inch crack around the top were the bushing presses in because of the constant slamming of the differential during high torque and will need to be replaced. The bad news: the axle housing tube for non-slip differentials has been discontinued and is nowhere to be bought. I'll need to look around salvage yards and hope to find a 4x4 GC sitting there and no one else has already taken the part I need. Or, try to find someone to weld the cast aluminum, but a welder was already contacted and doesn't think a weld will hold due to the severe torque that part sustains.
@@reruddock That is not good and thanks for sharing your story. Hope folks read this.
Thank you for your video
Thank you for watching and I hope my videos helped you out.
WATCH ME WRENCH
Sure it was
I was not able to disconnect lift axle so had to replace it right under the vehicle
And I’ve installed that bushing in vertical direction. So the problem is fixed. 👍
I very happy to hear that you fixed the problem. That is not an easy job so give yourself a lot of credit. Thank you.
4 post lift that must have cost you some money, but in the end saves lots of cost.
Hello Paul, thanks for watching my video and yes the lift is a life saver. There not too expensive believe it or not. Mine is an Atlas 8000 lbs., extra tall.
Thanks, ...
Thanks for watching and for your support.
Really helpful vid. I got mine fixed recently, how many kilometers it will last?
Thanks for watching and the feedback. I hope they last the lifetime of the Jeep but I don't think they will.
How much did it cost? Or much would it cost me to get a mechanic to do this for me?
I see the front prop shaft has a CV joint on the diff end is it like that from the factory?
Yes that is all factory. Thank you for watching and thank you for the question. The jeep is all stock.
Ive got a UK 2005 hemi and its got a unviversal joint on the front end they must of changed later on then.
I had the same problem with them stupid diff bushes changed it and its gone again 😏
Yes Lee that is a terrible design and a heck of a job to do. I wont do it again.
i have a 1996 jeep cherokee xj does the dana 35 rear end suppose to have thrust washers behind the spider gears or can i run it without them mine didnt have any when i pulled it out while replacing rear axle bearing and seals
Thanks for watching
I have The same problem, what happen if i wait 2 or 3 months? Traveling around 2k Miles un that time
I dont recommend that, could damage joints, crack the case, etc, etc.
@@WATCHMEWRENCH ok, thanks. I thought you said in the at the beggining of the video you have that noise since 25 miles and you did the repair in 75 miles
How was there so much diff fluid? When I took my shafts out none came out from both sides. My cv shaft looked shiny. So maybe I need to add some. Also replacing the shafts in couple days. I am at 116k there we no play in one side. I am on 32s going 33. Modded ome hd lift
Thanks for watching Curtis. You should have some fluid coming out, perhaps its best you add some and check the fluid level properly so you dont mess up that bad Cherokee you ride. I wish I could do that to mine.
Trust me, NOT appreciably cheaper in any other part of the country.. I moved to NC from the northeast, and frankly, labor rates may be higher in the northeast, but at $25/hr less down here, the techs take a bit longer to do the same job.. In farm country of NC, I've paid at least as much as in the NE and , frankly, gotten lesser quality work! My big local Chrysler/Dodge/ Jeep dealer is basically OFF my list!
Thanks for the heads up. I can see dealers working slower in the southeast.
from:phoenix arizona thank you very much for the video tomorrow I have to change my 2005 jeep grand cherokee 4x4 and I had no idea how to do it but you gave me good ideas thanks for the video...GRACIAS GRACIAS....:-)
No problem Jr. I hope it helps, any questions feel free to ask and i will try my best to help. Let me know how it turns out.
Replace 2006 jeep Cherokee front differential bushing
???
are these hard to change with the engine out? My engine is out right now and these need replaced.
Hi Eddie, a shop might still charge you the same price with the engine out but the job should absolutely be easier, take less time and cost you less to pay for the repair but that all depends on how honest your mechanic is. Here is NY they would probably try to charge you twice the amount with the engine out. Now if your doing the job yourself yes it will be much easier.
@@WATCHMEWRENCH friend is changing the engine and changed the mounts. 4 certified mechanics told me I needed a engine. I bought a reman engine. He got the old engine out .. was a broken timing chain tensioner making all the noise!. engine had 170xxx so I said put the new engine in anyways :/
I’m getting ready to do this job but I am hesitant to buy the OEM bushings because the originals were shit. Or did they fix the problem with them?
So far mine still work but I just cant tell you if the factory revised the bushings. It is a long difficult job. Took me two days and be careful as that differential housing is very heavy.
@@WATCHMEWRENCH 10 four. Thank you for the quick response.
@@WATCHMEWRENCH what did the dealer quote you for this job?
How the hell did you get to the driver side mount on the diff I can't get anything to holt the nut if I but it it wants to strip 😑
Watch the video i showed how I did the process step by step.
@@WATCHMEWRENCH i got it after I posted this comment I managed to get a socket on the nut side with 100 tooth ratchet just did it a couple clicks at a time! 👍 patience is key!
Glad it worked out
160 bucks you paid. Wow I paid $28 for all three of them on Amazon. No joke sorry about that.
You got lucky. Are you sure their OEM parts and not cheap China parts?
it's the same problem for the whole jeep commander run.
I feel your pain Al Dee. thank you for watching.
thanks for the reply.
Good video. In all fairness, without a lift, this is a nightmare. Working on the ground, I usually pull the axles, drop the diff and replace them while it rests on blocks of wood.
Is it possible for a failed bushing to cause vibrations because the differential leans against the frame?
I have a customer with a 40 mph driveline vibration and noise. I replaced both bad hub bearings, but it is still noisy and with vibration. The differential is leaning against the frame.
Thanks for watching and yes i would not want to do this job on the ground.
Yeah I'm going to take a pass on this without a lift. I just discovered the same one bad on my 2010 while doing the brakes. It has a slight vibration (hum) accelerating at 40+ and under load, going up hill etc... Also discovered the lower control arm rear bushings are going bad too, fun times.
Thanks for posting. This will definitely help me whe I do my bushings next week. How did it all go back together for you? Can you offer any advice?
there is part 2 to that video.
part 2 shows how to put it back together.
Такая же проблемма и на моём JEEP, буду заказывать сайлентблоки из твёрдого полеуретана, набор стоит у нас 100$. Смотрю тоже проблемма с передним сальником раздаточной коробки, походу это болезнь этих коробок, у всех бегут эти сальники...
Im sorry but I am unable to translate what you wrote.
13:26 lmfao i knew it.
I cant tell you how many people message me stating yes you can do it the way I was originally planning. At least one person per week tells me you can but it clearly would not have worked on my jeep.
😂 yeah I've been trying to find an easy way around this job but can't
Rod knock, junk it.
No sorry but there is no rod knock and 3 years later since making that video she runs stronger than ever. Thanks for watching.
THANK YOU....what I needed to know was if that drive shaft would just pop out. IT DOES! Guess who got the oil pan off their Jeep?!?!?! (Two months later.)
Thanks for watching and for the feedback.
im thinking to fill up that bushing with 3M 08609 Window-Weld
Im not sure if that will hold up to the weight and torque that the bushing will be subjected to. Thanks for watching.
@@WATCHMEWRENCH 100% its worth to try before removing front diferential
Yeah this is definitely a big job and its not easy. The diff is HEAVY as heck.
@@tedyfanita1 how did that end up going?