F150 Got Bad Gas Mileage? Throttle Body Cleaning And Idle Relearn
Вставка
- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- Was getting below average fuel economy in my truck.
170000km or 105000 miles on the truck and i never did a throttle body cleaning.
Air filter was due for a change and figured i would clean the throttle body and mass air flow when changing the filter so everything was freshened up.
When doing all this you want to do a idle relearn.
The video is a bit long in length but covers a good common service that should be done around every 60,000 to 100,000 km or 37,000 to 67,000 miles.
I had no check engine light.
Concerns were poor fuel economy, slight rough idle, throttle response different.
If you find this video helpful
Hit that like button and if you haven't already and would like to please subscribe and we will see you all in the next video.
1. With the vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake.
2. Put the gearshift in P (Park), turn off all accessories and start the
engine.
3. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
4. Allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
5. Turn the A/C on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
6. Release the parking brake. With your foot on the brake pedal and with
the A/C on, put the vehicle in D (Drive) and allow the engine to idle for
at least one minute.
7. Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process.
• The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles (16 km) or more to
relearn the idle and fuel trim strategy.
• If you do not allow the engine to relearn its idle trim, the idle
quality of your vehicle may be adversely affected until the idle
trim is eventually relearned.
Just cleaned my throttle body and MAV sensor on 2013 F150 5.0 with 110,000 miles . Amazing how much smoother the truck runs now. Night and day.
Very best 👌
Thank you for your video. Made significant difference. I was averaging 13.8 mpg and now I’m around 17 mpg. This was after a change of spark plugs, change of oil, cleaning of throttle body and mass air flow sensor.
Note: I only drove it for 20 minutes so I will see if it different after a few days of driving
Great job! Happy to help
@@Nando-fe1bx you drivin it enough yet?
@@Nando-fe1bx which spark plugs are you using?
What truck do you have?
Couple things: you don’t have to disconnect the Pos terminal, just the Neg. As long as the battery is removed from the circuit those capacitors will drain the same.
If you’re going to do this cleanup, replace that green gasket while you’re at it. They’re 3 bucks at the auto shop.
Finally, don’t spray cleaner into the intake like that. Soak a rag or brush, clean it up and then thoroughly wipe it down when you’re done.
My 2012 shaken boots. Just did the plugs but forgot to check the springs n boots on the coil pack gonna clean the throttle body next weekend
Did you happen to run the engine codes?
What about a 94 single can pk body? Family truck we've had for years as well as maintained. However our gas mileage is awful! I realize it is an older model avg this video is for a newer one. Just seeing if anyone has comments or similar issues. Please and thank you ❤️
any fuel injected vehicle really. A throttle body cleaning could help a senario.
Throttle body cleaning
Air filter
Fuel Filter
Spark plugs
Great information thanks for sharing
no problem
happy to help
Make sure to hit the like button and subscribe to the channel if you would like
That’s a pretty small difference but it adds up over time I guess
Very informative
Thanks for the video. Question:what guage jumper wire do I need? Thanks
Does not need to be a very big wire. Or could use a booster cable to drain the system. Up to you.
14:14... Helps get the heavy grime out
I have to change the o rings on the Y pipe of my 2011 f150. Since the throttle body is coming off I just as well clean it. I also plan on changing the belts while I'm in there. Maybe not necessary but the truck has 98000 miles. Thanks for the video. I've disconnected my battery several times and knew nothing about the throttle body relearn process. I've never been happy with the throttle response on this truck. Hopefully the cleaning and relearning process will help. If mileage goes up a tad too I won't complain. Funny stuff here. I have a Kenwood deck in my truck too, my tire pressure light is on lol and I have a muffler delete on it. What did you do to your exhaust?
Removed resonator. Added thrush muffler. Single in dual out. 2.5"
Two custom tail pipes that come out behind each wheel.
But recently I went back to stock as the muffler was starting to get a hole in in.
I put the quiet oe exhaust back on now.
@@LUCAMTire I see. I left my resonater on. I've had exhaust systems on a lot of different vehicles and didn't want drone. Try a muffler delete. Cheap and it gives the truck a nice sound. It's not super loud and no drone if that bothers you.
@@lobbyrobby ya that works to.
I seen quite a few people do that.
I was looking for a distinct sound that not many people would have and a distinctive look no one else would have as you can not buy a kit for how I had my tails set up. It wasn't to loud and didn't have a drone for the most part. Quite when idling around and loud when hitting on it.
Was good.
But I put it back to stock now.
Not sure if I will build another system for it or not.
Will see what happens when summer comes.
@@LUCAMTire right on. I had cherry bomb glass packs on my 94 vic. That car sounded beautiful. It was pretty loud too. Loud enough to where I was pulled over twice lol
Ummm. Im in Kansas youre somewhere in Canada...my air filter had the same talc like brown stuff, oddly enough so does my house air filter, which makes sense. What DOES NOT MAKE SENSE is up until 5 years ago my house filter and car filters had grey "dirt" in them... What is the brown stuff and why did it change?
Engine air filter color change from different road dabree
House air filter maybe a different type of construction in the area or a factory?
We are not the cleanest creatures in our environment and the amount of debree we kick up it is hard to tell.
Can source a testing lab and see if they can answer the question 🤔
Can you use regular jumper cables or have to use those little ones
You can use regular jumpers.
Timne to take some actions, my truck is now over 18 l / 100 on the 3.5 ecoboost, getting ridiculous.
Ya I would say.
Might want to have that checked.
Any check engine light?
Have a led foot 😆 lol??
@@LUCAMTire There is no check engine light.
Nothing in the codes,
and I have the softest foot in the west.
still getting creamed in the mileage.
I have a buddy in a 350 getting better milage than me, and another one that has his 150 down to 11l / 100km.
Had the truck for about 20,000k feeling a little ripped off.
Had the Plugs, boots done, and the injectors cleaned, we will see what it brings this week.
@@Northernblades how many km on it and what year
Does this appply also to a 2006 F150 5.4 3v FX4 ?
a throttle body cleaning is good from time to time for majority of vehicles
Was yours a vct thing causing rough idle or actually throttle body?
@@KollynJ I don't know, mechanics couldn't tell without opening the engine, doesn't matter anyways as things got worse and just bought a new engine, arrived today, they'll make the old one run acceptably and pull it out to put the new one in.
So soon I'll be having a "new" truck again and I'll take care of it religiously from now on. Too late for the previous engine to start giving it love.
@@KollynJ By the way, mechanics tried by replacing throttle body, injectors even the computer besides some other tests and no change. They didn't charge me for these parts and tests, they put my parts back in once they did the tests.
His scan/computer showed him how the cylinders/combustion behaved erratically, no error codes.
@@giorgiomx nice! If my frame were in better shape I’d consider it but my engines only got 126k. What were symptoms as it got worse? I hope I’m not seeing the same thing happen
In order to use your computer on your truck you have to run a full tank out to get your mileage
If I was looking for a overall average on a full tank I would reset beginning of tank and check recorded fuel consumption at end of tank.
Record millage and amount of liters to refill.
But I was checking fuel consumption for the approximate 5-10km in video.
For the computer to operate on checking fuel consumption you do not need to run a full tank.
The vehicle calculates the consumption for millage traveled from the time of reset.
@@LUCAMTire not from all the cars i drove you can drive a half tank of gas and you might have 24 miles to a gallon but if you drive the full tank the mileage will go down once the gas get low
@patpeacock8150 this one calculates fuel consumption for millage driven. If I was to drive a full tank it would give a better stable reading for tank average. It calculates for the mpg or L/100 since last reset.
If I do not reset in 8000km it gives a average consumption for the 8000km driven.
This vehicle does not calculate tank average. Just consumption from last reset.
Thanks for the video. I never knew I needed to reset my idle learn. I did what you show us here to my 2012 F150 ecoboost with 195,000 miles on it, and my mileage shot back up from 12.2 to over 16 mpg. I had to check my tach to see if she stalled out at a red light because she was idling SO SMOOTH! Thanks again. (I had about 1/16th” of dust on my MAP too)
glad i could help
Thanks for watching. make sure to like the video and feel free to subscribe to the channel
@Kristie Parker you can unhook both positive and negative and hook a jumper cables between the two to drain the system of all power.
After the system is drained you can disconnect the jumper cable and hook your battery back up normally. Then can do your idle relearn after.
@Kristie Parker if you are not comfortable doing these procedures at your own risk I would suggest having a qualified person to assist or to do the job so no damage is done to the electrical system of the vehicle.
Thanks bro I I’m running 13.3 on average after a spark plug change out and that air intake spiral thing. I’m gonna do this next and my fuel hp pump
Hey thanks for the info in the video. I was able to clean my throttle body today as well as my MAF. I was averaging 100km/17 litres. After the cleaning it dropped down to 100km/14 litres. In the early going at least. I'm also enjoying a better idle and smoother acceleration. I was experiencing rough idle as well but it hasn't happened after the cleaning. Knock on wood. All this after a spark plug change from a trusted team of mechanics. 2009 f150 5.4. Next I will upgrade the air filter. Once again thank you for the video. I watched the whole thing more than once.
Thanks for watching.
Make sure to like the video and subscribe If you'd like.
Happy it helped
@@LUCAMTire I definitely liked and subscribed, I appreciate you posting this video !
I want to do this for my 2017 Infiniti QX80 but because the butterfly plate is electronically controlled, I was afraid that manually opening it to clean it up real good might be harmful to the motor or electronics controlling the plate. Yours was this same electronic control as well? And no check engine light came on afterwards I guess?
Did it keep idling smooth?
@@KollynJ i still expereience the rough idle. But thats a 5.4 thing. Might be the solenoids on my truck my guess.
Have a 17 f150 with the 5.0. 88,000 miles on it. Getting 12.0mpg city and used to get 15-16 hoping this will help bring it back up
Did you switch your tires and if so what did you put on for tires? Tires an also change your fuel millage
Gday mate we have the same engine in Australia but I have that Throttle body in my G8 Fairlane 2006 model. The Last ever Fairlane built by Ford Australia.🇦🇺. Only 156 were manufactured BEAUTIFUL CAR. PAIN IN THE ASS MOTOR… ANY LITTLE LEAK IS FKD. LOL 😂 GOOD INFO THE CAR GETS 15 ltr s per 100 km Average driving country driving 12 ltr s if you are driving nicely. The car weighs in at 2120kgs so she is heavy. But I’m a big sucker for a big BOOT. 😂 COOL BUDDY GOOD LUCK WITH THE F Truck. I just fully restored a 1994 F150. They have the famous 5.0 litre Windsor. Cheers 🍻.
Another factor that affects mpg is aggressive tread on tires. Street tires get better mileage.
100%
lift kits or leveling kits also play a factor.
Also aftermarket exhausts and intakes.
My 2014 f150 4x4 XLT with a 3.7L 6 cyl engine has had lousy gas milage from the very beginning. 10.5 to 12 mpg in city, and on the hwy I've seen as high as 24 MPG.
Every chance I had if I stopped at a store or gas station and had an opportunity to talk to other guys with f150s, usually they had V8's that got better gas milage than mine does! Since it has been that way since buying, I wonder if this might help.
Thank you for posting this video!
24 mpg on high way seems pretty good as I never seen it in my truck before. With stock size tires I was seeing around 19 to 22 mpg more averaging around 20 highway.
But lately I been getting around 12 to 15 mpg which was triggering thoughts this can not be normal. Air filter was getting dirty and never cleaned my throttle body before on this truck so figured it was a good time to give it a good cleaning. It's only been a day or 2 sense the cleaning and have not gone overly far. So far the millage has improved from the short test drive i done but time will tell how much better it will get. I know trucks are not the best on fuel but mine seemed to be getting a bit out of hand.
@@LUCAMTire I appreciated your video! And 20-22 hwy was tropical, I only saw 24 once, and that must of been on the down hill trip back. But it was the best, just no way does that happen all the time. If I'm hitting 20 on the highway I'm happy. 12 in town makes me wish I'd of got the v8!
But I have loved everything else with my truck. Thanks again and I hope you and your family stay healthy!
@@donc9751 thanks same to you
Getting ready to do this on my 2012 ecoboost. Thanks! PS. Great voice, would love to have a voice like that haha!
I just wanted to thank you for video, I didn't know about the computer reset. My truck is running smooth now and better mileage per gallon . Thanks bro 🙏!!!
Hey no problem. Happy it helped. Thanks for watching.
My 2004 BMW 325i only got 15 MPG since I bought it 5 years ago.
I cleaned the MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR and I'm getting around 30+ now!!!
(It never threw a fault code for anything. Including Oxygen Sensors.)
mass airflow can definitely cause bad gas millage as well. Thanks for the info
Im about to do a tune up on mine soon. Getting about 12.9 mpg. I was getting closer to 17-18mpg. But now its gone down a good amount. But I'm do for plugs and some cleaning. And when doing the idle relearn you should turn ac on after its sat a bit. That puts a load on so it knows what to except from a heavier load at idle.
yes
You have all loads off and run vehicle to relearn cold to hot idle relearn then start adding on load at a time to show different loads for the computer to relearn itself.
You will need to road test after for transmission shift points.
I was getting close to 22 mpg average in my 2010 f150 just a few years ago now for some reason I'm only getting 16.5 mpg average. But the thing that just shocked me the most was last night I pulled into a friend's house with my instrument cluster saying that I had 65 mi to empty I went in to drop off some food and pick up some clothes turned around walk back to my truck and it said I had 5 miles to empty it still says that today 24 hours later and I've parked it in several different angles to try to see if maybe it's just not getting a good reading.
Any check engine light on?
Did you ever happen to change your 4x4 vacuum hub actuators?
@@Tradeitback could be something with average consumpsion metering on the average meter scense last reset.
If your vehicle idles alot (winter months) it will get bad millage on the meter. As it is running but not moving.
Cana also check under the hood.
The PCV piping from the the valve cover to intake. One is passenger side one is drivers side. The plastic elbows likes to crack. They are build cheap.
And suck air.
This might cause a issue. Mine cracked 2 times on me so far. No check engine light. Run truck and see if you hear a vacuum leak. Put finger over PCV pipe elbow to see if it makes a difference in sound. Mine got a hair line crack not visible to the eye. I could only hear IT and when putting my finger over the elbow sound changed.
I replaced pipe once on passenger side then it cracked again where the two peices fuse together. Second time round. I sanded it and put jb weld to stop the leak.
Listen around for some vacuum leaks to see if their might be something.
If not would need to hook to a scanner and watch live data to see if anything seems out of sink
Bobby...I have a '10 as well. It was about three years ago that my "miles to empty" came on for the first time ever, and it did the same thing as you described, starting high and very quickly shot to near zero...definitely not corresponding to the distance driven. It only did that once, and the dozen or so times that I've allowed my fuel level to drop sufficiently for the "miles to empty" to come on since, it has accurately displayed and tracked the remaining distance. Weird.
I do a can of sea foam in a half tank and and a full spray can into the throttle body at 2k rpm every 15-20k miles. Works wonders. Gotta love that fire pull Dumping White smoke. Lol. Also ways runs so much better afterwards. I need to start doing the idle relearn. Is that similar to the KAM reset?
Did you make the seafoam video for cleaning intake? This was a great video thank you
no problem happy to help
Just did this. Worked great. But now I hear a whistle noise when accelerating… around 1200-2000 rpm. I’m thinking maybe be a bad TB gasket? Didn’t have any lube to put on it after cleaning the TB. The intake hose is virtually brand new.
could be or you forgot to hook a vacuum hose up some where. start engine. check where noise is coming from. careful of moving parts
Just what i need is a flag of a country ran by a dictatorship in my window
I'm going to try this on my 2014 and I'm hoping for the best. I really really thank you for posting this. It relieves me like crazy, I was thinking I needed to have a mechanic fix something, since I had it recently worked on and don't trust the work of those mechanics.
It's possible they unhooked the battery, and the computer never relearned well or something. Anyways, hopin' for the best and just being aware of things that can be done that work is relieving.
What did they happen to do for repairs on the vehicle and what is the vehicle doing now?
@@LUCAMTire Valve cover gasket(s) replaced. F150 2014 3.5 Eco.
mpg went from 14 to 11-12
the hose coming straight down from the throttle body kept popping off after they worked on it. I finally found a way to get it to stay on well, cleaned it well, and then used 2 clamps.
I'm hearing the random scraping noise when I throttle, which I think this video will be a fix for. ua-cam.com/video/B1Q3uwRk3H8/v-deo.html
Zero rush getting back to me. Just relieved that a drop in mpg is seemingly not that big of a deal. Just wanting to take the best care of my engine as I can.
Thank you.
Will this work on a 2.7 eco?
A throttle body cleaning is always help full.
Thanks for sharing. Liked and subscribed. Really appreciate it! I’m getting P0422 “evap leak small”. Buddy of mine smoke tested and said it’s my fuel inlet valve and also said he saw some smoke from behind the engine between the firewall (hard to get eyes back there.) 2009 F150 KR 5.4 3v with 146.000 miles. As for the fuel inlet are there any retrofit/aftermarket fixes to replace ez-fuel no cap with a traditional one? Second time I’ve gotten that code in the last 5 months. Fuel economy has certainly dropped a few mpg as well. Thanks again!
not sure where it would be leaking at the back side of the motor unless you have a evap tube running there.
I do not know if there is a retrofit item but if you found a filler neck off another style of vehicle similar design and tube size i am sure you could possibly make something work
@@LUCAMTire Bigger issue ended up being fuse 27 (20 amp) fuel pump. Burned up contacts. Ordered the tsb fuse relocation kit….Waiting for it now. No codes and fuse was never blown. Still have the small evap leak I’ll tackle next. Thanks again
I have a 14 F150 5.0 4x4andni get 10-11L/100KM. Maybe I should make a video on how to get great fuel economy 💸💸💸💸
That is good millage.
Is what I was getting in beginning.
Running P rated tires? Or LT
@@LUCAMTire Stock size tires. And not a highway tread.
Thanks a bunch for the video helped me tremendously . Same year truck , Same problem .. huge Drop in mileage .. I run a tune , Fox coil over level with 285/75/17 and prior to about 90 k in town I was getting 17mpg , Hwy was 22 doing ave of 80 mph .. Pretty good as far as.I was concerned ..after 90k it went to 13 mpg in town and 15 hwy ... Changed my plugs , dropped down a size fits 285/70/17 .. Still poor .. Sure hope this cleaning helped ..
Thanks again for the video ..
Did it change? I have a 2013 5.0 I get 11 city and 14 highway , a lot of hills but thats bad
Thanks for checking back
My throttle body was brand new. But running so rich I had to remove it and clean it up in 3 months. But all good now. But I recommend as it’s an easy repair to just clean it up every 1 to 2 years max. 👍🇦🇺🇨🇦❤❤
I had a problem with my fuel pump fuse and had it relocated. Would doing the relearn make that adjustment go away? What would happen if I just clean it with no relearn?
If you do not disconnect the battery and do not do a relearn the vehicle will operate at its previous computer calibration untill it relearn again.
Depending how dirty the throttle body is will determine how it will run. After a cleaning.
It might run normal and relearn itself to what has changed in time. Or it might run rough. Under or overfuel can be a result.
Can run normal
Lean out
Run rich
Or spit and sputter.
Or shift funny, hard or soft, may stay normal.
Won't know untill you try.
It all depends.
The relearn would be the ideal thing to do.
I'm at about 11.7 mpg in my 2014 ford f150 5.0 v8 at just over 70k. gas mileage was 14.5 when I bought it with 25k.
Mpg or L per 100km.
Any experience with using Cataclean to clean catylactic converter ? Mines not having issues but i wanta do for preventative purposes. Happy f150ing. Im in a 06 5.4 V3 Lariat. Happy motoring from NC.
i do not know anything about it. If you are running clean gas and no check engine light should mean your engine is burning fuel properly which then your convertors should work properly and should not technically fail, a convertor fails when raw unburnt fuel goes into the exhaust and then clogs the convertor over time. If the vehicle is running normal you should be ok. I do not see to many issues with convertors unless the vehicle has a bad skip for a long time which then would make the convertor fail.
Interesting. I just bought my 2012 f150 cause driving my brothers 2016 which got about 17mpg with 8gallons left I'm averaged at 12.4 when I should be at 16-17 range for in city use.
do you have a lift kit? over sized tires? heavy foot? idle long periods of time? any check engine light on?
@@LUCAMTire I think it's been lifted buddy swears leveled but it sits hire than my brothers stock 2016 one. Tires look anemic like it skipped leg day had a heavy foot once I got it cause I loved hearing the turbo but it only lasted a week. I've put 1k miles on it with daily use and pretty much to and from work with 4 tanks so far out of my 5 tank test I'm hitting 12.7mpg. 0 engine lights
@@kryssulich5016 ya definitely not easy on fuel.
Leveling or lift kit can Rob fuel millage. Oversize tires can do do that as well.
Could need a Tune up with plugs and throttle body cleaning.
Brakes sticking? E brake on?
How much better was it in mpg?
brought it down 2 liters per 100 km
My gas millage was not real bad but it was starting to get there. It helped. every 100,000km when changing spark plugs it would not hurt to do the maintenance on the throttle body and do a relearn.
I used to 10-12 mpg with my 1986 F150XL. Its my garbage truck. Im cleaning thottle body plus. Maybe new plugs, air filter, etc. It derves as it is.
I've been working on my truck lately. When I first got it used 2 years ago it was averaging about 11.5-12.3 which is not great but I hardly ever take the truck on the highway. Lately it has been dropping but throws no codes. 7-8 mpg if I drive normally, and maybe as high as 11.5 if I drive like a granny. I have already replaced the plugs and clean the throttle body with no real effects. Filters a k&n and not dirty at all. I'm going to try cleaning the maf and replacing the upstream O2 sensors this weekend.
If you have access to a good scan tool you can read the live data of the o2 sensors to see if one is being lazy. Or take a multi meter to check the ohms readings.
Also there is crank case ventilation that goes from valve cover to intake.
I have found hair line cracks in the elbow fittings that does not throw a code.
I Could hear some hissing when engine was running while under hood. Something to possibly check.
Dirty air filter or dirty fuel filter.
I know some times it is a Hassel but would check for a vacuum leek. Could be the situation?
@@LUCAMTire Well MAF is cleaned and upstream O2 sensors are changed. Man that harness routing is a total PITA, especially getting that plug push in clip undone . The result is that it actually seemed to get WORSE!?!? Yesterday at lunch was a new low. 6.4 mpg!! I was able to get it into the 8-9 range by being a feather foot. Yesterday I ordered a new set of coils which should be here today. So can you check like old school for vacuum leaks? Spray can of WD40 or carb cleaner and listen for any changes. Where is a good spot to get a full vacuum signal from for a gauge? What should the vacuum be at idle?
The thing that's really ticking me off as it seems to run really well, no missing, sputtering, or codes at all. I even checked it even thought the light wasn't on. Of course, nothing. Is it possible that the mpg meter is faulty??
Air filter is a K&N and clean. I have read the fuel filter is supposed to be lifetime and is mounted in the tank?
I did MAF cleaning as well as throttle body cleaning. I am still getting the same MPG regardless. I am on 33s but 10mpg in city and 13 on the highway just doesn't make sense. I replaced air filter too and I was told spark plugs were good. I have a 3.7L V6 non-ecoboost. Also, 4x4 doesn't work. I replaced the transfer case motor and nothing. Can something with 4x4 not working cause a bad mpg? I'm not expecting to get 20mpg, just not 9-10mpg.
33 inch does not help fuel millage. 10ply or mud tires does not help either.
Check live Data on o2, mass air flow, flex fuel mixture. Etc. See if things are normal. Any Check engine light? Evap system malfunction? Check for vacuum leeks under hood.
For the 4 wheel drive do you have power and ground at the transfer case motor or were you guessing that was the problem? What's it doing to not work?
Thanks for this video… throttle body cleaned after 115000 miles.
Im going to try to clean my T body as well . My 2014 with 5.0 engine is getting 11.7 in city driving
Good video!!! I have the same problem so I’ll be doing this soon!!!
It helps.
My truck’s battery was completely dead to the point where the key fob wasn’t working. I put a new one in it and off I went. Drove perfect but now it is stalling when I come to a stop or have a really low idle. Hope this works.
If you put a new battery you need to do a idle relearn.
First make sure battery connection is good and secure and the power wire that runs along the front of the truck is tight to battery + junction to battery post. This comes loose from time to time at the battery junction.
This Would cause random complete shut down no power or stalling.
When changing the battery this comes loose from time to time from moving the wires out of the way to get the battery out. This is where all the wires come together to hook on battery. I have seen this come loose on more then one truck. Double check the connection with the proper tool as I have seen several chase there tail over this.
Relearn
Let truck idle with no loads on for 20 minutes.
Turn on one load at a time after the 20 minute mark.
Blower motor. Wait a minute. Turn lights on.
Wait. Turn AC or defroster etc. One by one with waiting a few moments between each. Idle should fluctuate a bit each time after idle settles you can continue.
Hold foot on break.
Shift to reverse and run through each gear with out moving foot on brake. Holding each gear for 30 seconds.
After the idle relearn you will need to do a test drive for the truck to relearn the shift points. May or may not shift hard for a little bit untill it relearn's itself.
If the throttle body is fairly dirty this could cause stalling and for the truck not to relearn itself correctly.
Hope this helps
@@LUCAMTire Cleaned the throttle body & MAF and all is good now. Thanks!
@@jass7981 good good
Happy to hear
If this video helped you out make sure to hit that like button and subscribe to the channel to help us out.
Thanks for watching
I wonder if this is what's causing my bad do mileage.
I guess mine is in km . But originally when I bought the vehicle I got just under 1000km a full tank. Now I get about 600km a tank in a 3.5 EcoBoost. Doesn't seem right to me
its a possibility.
Driving habits can cause a significant differenance.
If you were taking it easy when first purchased, The liters per 100 km would better and now more comfortable with the truck the little skinny peddle gets pushed a little harder the L/100km will be worse. winter plays a tole on millage as well. warm up times etc. over sized tires or lift kits dont help
IF this video helped you out.
Hit that like button and subscribe to the channel to help us out.
Thanks for watching
@@LUCAMTire yes it is winter. My tires do keep getting flat front the cold. There were times when I went a bit faster. I did my calculation at 9.4mpg . Which is terrible for an eco boost. I've read that it could be the mass airflow sensor. A look so the fuel pressure regulator? I dono. I just hope i can fix it soon when it warms up
@@slyfly4829 Remote start wont help the millage. you want a the motor warmed up a bit before driving. cold motor will burn more fuel.
several senarios.
your tires should not be going flat because of the cold.
The pressure will fluctuate some but shouldn't go flat.
As long as the tire is properly installed you should not be needing to put air once a week. You might need to once a month or once every two month to make sure they are not dropping in pressure. I put my tires on 4 months ago and only needed to top them up once sense. and they might of dropped 5 psi in this time. going from above 0 degrees Celsius to below zero
Thinking either poor installation or you picked up a nail or something.
I wouldn't keep running the tires low on pressure. it will chew the inside of the tire with you not knowing or it will cause the sidewalls to flex to much and crack under strain. best to have fixed. Tires are not normally cheap. lol
Mass airflow can cause some of the problems.
Winter gas doesn't help.
The mixture of the fuel changes for temperature and all of a sudden gas millage sucks.
If your vehicle is a flex fuel it will have a sensor for the alcohol content in the fuel. these tend to miss read time to time causing bad millage.
If you have a block heater, plug it in while it sits over night. having a smart receptacle is nice. can program the plug to turn on a few hours before you need the vehicle and it will warm the coolant or oil to assist in cold starts
I have a rough idle after my 2013 f150 5.0 gets warm. Plugs replaced but still does it. TB taken off and cleaned. It was really sludged up on the outside for some reason. I will try the relearning process and see if that helps.
Cool let us know
If you have access to a scan tool.
Check for pending codes.
Check coolant temp sensor is reading correctly.
Check fuel pressure. Fuel filter might be getting clogged up?
You said you changed spark plugs?
What brand did you put in? As some other brands besides motocraft can cause a skip and or possibly you have a bad coil.
If you have a flex fuel truck. Check the alcohol content level sensor as I have seen the sensor go bad and it give a bad reading to the pcm giving more or less fuel causing rough idle etc
@@LUCAMTire There is no CEL, but I can have my friend scan with his tool. I used NGK gapped at 45. When I replaced them, there was one loose plug (back drivers side plug). It and the coil boot was all sludged up with oil.
@@LUCAMTire It is a flex fuel truck. Is that inline somewhere or inside the tank?
I got same issue
I have a 2017 2.7 eco at 100k miles and truck sputters sometimes and dies when at complete stop. Hope this helps!
I would suggest running the codes and and checking the live data to see what is taking place.
I am on the assumption a cleaning would not make your truck stall out but anything can be possible. Sounds like there would be a different problem at hand..
Can you do a idle relearn even if the truck is at operating temp already like I’m driving to get a new battery and would like to replace it in the parking lot? Tge relearn says to start and let it reach operating temp but it will already be at operating temp
It wants to learn idle at vehicle cold temperatures for fuel trims and learns to hot.
It use different degrees in timing, fuel trims, for certain rpm and temperatures of the air.
I would say you can toss a battery in and go as I have seen several shops not do a relearn but would suggest doing a relearn not long after. But the vehicle is always adapting to temperatures and engine loads and driving habits etc.
You should still be able to run the truck after installing battery.
If anything find safe spot. Shut truck off. Start let idle 5 to 10 mins.
Then start driving. Not aggressive shifts but not idling shifts as the transmission needs to relearn shift points. Normally within the first ride or two it relearn itself.
I have a 2012 150 an it’s doin a lot of jerking changed wires plugs coil still doing the same
Sounds like you might have a check engine light..
My f150 get only 8 miles gal
I try new new mas flow
And and clean out the throttle body has to get the same miles? Can it be something else no check engine light
First off.
Year make model size engine? Flex fuel or not?
Are you running over sized tires and a lift kit?
Pulling a trailer all the time?
Hard on that little skinny peddle or just idling around.
Is this highway or city readings.
Does the truck idle alot?
Does the 4x4 work?
Start engine and pop hood and listen for a vacuum leak.
See if one of the pvc pipes that go from valve cover to intake is cracked. There is one off each valve cover.
The plastic elbow that comes off the valve cover are known to Crack In the seam where each side molds together of the elbow. Check their and other possible vacuum leaks.
If not that hook a scanner up and read the live data.
I have also seen the alcohol ethanol sensor not reading correctly causing bad gas millage if it is a flex fuel. This sensor does not necessarily cause a check engine light if it believes it is still running correctly.
Does the truck spit and sputter at all? Or runs normal?
Check o2 sensor readings and all others to make sure sensors are in the ideal range readings.
I've been telling my dad to get his truck checked for over 4 months now, he says he doesn't want to spend money 🤦♂️ like he's not spending extra money on gas.
He could value his vehicle different then you and I.
or may not understand it could save him money if properly diagnosed and fixed.
He Might or might not be acquiring service at the correct service center and he knows it and does not want a second opinion because his service center lets things slide for less.
If it works for him in his situation and he is not complaining about his truck. all is well.
If he does not want to himself and you feel that it really needs to be done,
Make it a present by having his vehicle looked over and possibly fixed.
Just source the right tech for the job,
Hope you get er sorted out.
Thx for that. Greetings from Poland
Thank you for sharing all your knowledge
Ok to be honest i did this , i have more throttle response but i went from 10.9mpg to 7.5-8.5 mpg in my 2013 f150, i tow about 2500 lbs once a week. I dont know why is so bad
With the 5.0
check your 4x4 hub actuators to make sure they are not engaged. they tend to fail over time and when they fail it locks the front diff in 4x4 and turns the front diff down the road when transfer case is in 2x4.
lift front of vehicle
start engine and leave in 2x4 in park
turn the front wheel by hand. the cv shaft should not turn. if it does replace 4x4 vacuum wheel hub actuator.
I also found the pvc pipe from passanger side valve cover to behind the throttle body cracks.
Start engine in park and let idle. pop hood and listing for a vacuum leek noise. the elbow that plugs in to the pcv valace cracks in the seem, put finger over top to see if noise stops,
Hope this helps
Would regular jumper cables also work to drain the battery
Yes
Did I miss what the jumper wire was doing…?
Jumper wire drains the capacitors in the system to reset the computer for idle relearn.
Sea foam is specifically made for two stroke engines
Seafoam top engine cleaner and lube.
States on can
Works for all types of 2 and 4 stroke gasoline engines.
You can prolly get some specifically for 2 stroke.
Specific penitraiting fluid.
In tank gas treatment
Engine Oil treatment and prolly other categories of seafoam.
Depends what part of seafoam you are referring to.
Where did you get that wire to drain the battery
purchased it at a parts supply place or a tool store. can find them amazon or ebay.
a set of booster cables can act the same.
awesome information. My Neighbor replaced the throttle body on his 2014 F150 ford truck. The pigtail will not reconnect for some reason. will not snap back on any ideas?
As long as the little bridge to the connector is still there you can use a zip tie trick or replace connector.
See following link for zip tie trick.
ua-cam.com/video/frOpWHQj69Q/v-deo.html
I have a 2018 2.7 ecoboost getting 14mpg Iv changed plugs cleaned map sensors new air filter still only getting 14mpg truck only has 35k on it
If it has 35k on it I would seek dealer attention as I am assuming it is still under warranty?
Any check engine lights?
Has it been hooked to a scanner and live stream data been checked? If flex fuel, what is the alcohol content reading? O2 sensors reading correctly? Map barrow temp etc?
@@LUCAMTire they will just say it’s the tires and wheels it’s the easy way out for Ford has 295/55/20’s bone stock other then that
@@LUCAMTire no lights on all the temps and all are checking out ok I did see cat temp bank 1 was at 1500 driving down the road last night at 55
@@varmint223 you will need to watch it on a scanner to see if something is out of perimeter.
I have seen the alcohol content sensor for the ethonal fuel be out and not throw a check engine light.
You will need to watch live data to see if something seems out.
Will the idle relearn be relevant for a 2005 f150 with a 5.4 3V ? I just did the mass air flow sensor cleaning, new air filter and thoroughly cleaned the throttle body which did fix my dying at times when idling and put in drive.
If it is a fly by wire throttle body, (electronic) I would suggest doing a idle relearn. It will help with idle conditions, fuel economy and assist in shift point performance.
@@LUCAMTire I have forscan..will that do it? if so what is it called in forescan?.. if you know.
@@A.C.71 the idle relearn is just steps when starting for the first time after battery was disconnected.
make sure all loads are off.
let run a bit, 5 - 10 minutes, no loads and start adding 1 load at a time.
turn lights on. turn radio. turn blower motor on different levels, turn on wipers.
each load let 30 around 30 seconds to pass for idle to stable and to allow computer to learn.
after that.
test drive average driving to learn shift points. not slow, not fast, average - shift points will be relearned to be smooth, might have some hard or agressive shifting in begining.
i am not sure what it is in forscan.
you can do this method with higher end scaners
@@LUCAMTire I appreciate the reply. I had talked to my mechanic in the meantime. He said it would relearn by itself in a short time, doing it manually just speeds up the process. I did do the relearn though ..here were the step I did in case it could help someone else.
1. With the vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake.
2. Put the gearshift in P (Park), turn off all accessories and start the
engine.
3. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
4. Allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
5. Turn the A/C on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
6. Release the parking brake. With your foot on the brake pedal and with
the A/C on, put the vehicle in D (Drive) and allow the engine to idle for
at least one minute.
7. Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process.
• The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles (16 km) or more to
relearn the idle and fuel trim strategy.
• If you do not allow the engine to relearn its idle trim, the idle
quality of your vehicle may be adversely affected until the idle
trim is eventually relearned.
@@A.C.71 that is correct
Question? When you use a jumper wire to drain the memory or to wipe it clean to relearn.
Do you unhook the battery completely and jumper just the cables? Or disconnect the negative and run jumper from the cable over to the hot still connected to battery?
Does both ways work? That's the way a Ford technician showed to do it on here. I did it this way just wondering if it worked?
Both ways work. You can disconnect one and jump it like the other video showed or disconnect both and jump it.
I showed to disconnect both. Neither way is wrong just as long one is disconnected and not touching the battery terminal when jumping.
Is one way a safer method for a potential beginner, maybe yes maybe no, depends on the person.
Both ways will work for you.
Great vid bro
Thanks
How can I change the f150 5.4 camshaft position sensor
locate the cam shaft position sensor that needs to be changed as there is 2
disconnect the wiring connected to it and then remove the bolt holding it in place.
Remove sensor, make sure sensor hole is clean before putting new sensor in.
put sensor and bolt in and tighten and connect harness,
I do not have a video on it or i would send the video link but this would be the senario.
You might have a more serious issue if you get that code.
what year and engine for this truck? thx
2011 f150 5.0
how ya makin out in the shit storm were in?? got the tire machines up n runnin ,so far so good... TC
Just shoveling as it comes. Wiping everything down all the time. Cleaning customers vehicles with liysole wipes trying not to touch to many things. Having them have things ready like wheel locks and registrations.
Wiping down everything we touch and switching gloves frequently.
A bit nerve racking. Which ones did you end up buying the techno?
@@LUCAMTire yea the Technolift
@@tcauto256 cool cool. so far they are treating me pretty good.
can I connect the wires with full size jumper cables? I do not have tiny ones
You can yes.
It is just to complete the circuit to drain the capacitors in the system. Just make sure the cables do not touch the battery and the battery cables are disconnected.
How I showed in the video
@@LUCAMTire thabk you! Awesome video. Truck still getting better fuel economy? What year is it and its the 5.0 right
@@johnshorba 2011 f150 5.0 custom exhaust and 33 inch tires.
Tires through the millage out to lunch and well I like hearing the exhaust so that doesn't help. But is running good.
@@LUCAMTire awesome. I have a 2013 with 74k its getting 10.2 mpg right now. Ohhhhh I need an improvement
@@johnshorba ya that does not sound good? You hard on that little skinny peddle? Any check engine lights? Have a lift kit or over sized tires?
Thanks for the info my friend. My ‘11 just suddenly started sucking fuel. I will get on this tomorrow and see if it helps.
If you have a scanner to read live stream data. If your truck is a flex fuel check the alcohol percentage reading. This can also be causing it along with some other stuff. This is just one of a few that can cause bad millage
Thanks for the info brother I do have a scanner and will check it out tomorrow. Cheers!
@@LUCAMTire haven’t checked data yet but geez I pulled that tb off and really don’t know how it was running. It was coated pretty good with rock hard carbon buildup. Cleaned it thoroughly with b12 tb cleaner and also cleaned mass air and man what a difference. No more stumbling idle and I barley have to press pedal while driving now. Mine has 220k and is used very heavily every day as my dd and work truck hauling tile and tile tools. I really appreciate your expertise my man. I hope you don’t have issues with you steering rack as mine went out a couple months ago and found out it was electric and also very expensive lol.
@@gettindrunker ya the steering racks on them are not cheap. I am here in Canada and the ford oe style in my area was around $1600 just for the rack with no installation.
I am assuming there is remanufactured ones for a bit less but not sure. Ford ruined the f150 with the electric rack.
You can but are not suppose to put a plow due to the electric rack and weakness of the front end.
I never had a issue with mine accept on cold days -10c or colder it clunks a bit if two aggressive with the wheel untill it warms itself up. Thought I would price one if it was to let go. Lol
@@gettindrunker happy it worked out.
Really smooth.