Seems like you could clean more gunk out of the manifold where you attach the throttle body with a rag before reassembly. Couldn't get real deep, but as long as you're in there...
Thanks for this video man! I cannot believe the difference in the idle and throttle response in my f150 5.0! It’s runnin like new with 292,000 miles! 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
@@5.0jeffro worse than yours! I didn’t have a wire brush so I used a scotch bright pad and mothers polish with the carb cleaner too. I was looking into this because of that damn wrench light that puts the truck into limp mode and makes it idle rough. Hopefully this fixed the problem.
@@f13killerhocks94if it keeps doing it it could be the throttle body itself going bad. Rough idle can be a lot of things. Especially if you haven’t tuned it up in a while with new spark plugs. Hopefully that cleaning will help.
@@5.0jeffro new plugs is next on the list! But man it’s running so much better! The idle smoothed out completely! And so far the Check engine light is gone
Install a motorcraft oil separator. You will be surprised how much oil it collects that doesn’t go back into your engine. It keeps everything clean from oil residue
@@5.0jeffro only the one on passenger side that goes back into intake. I also installed a throttle spacer. A 3” turn down FX muffler system. At 80 Mph I will averge 20/21 mpg. Oil separator, throttle spacer, FX muffler, CAI all made my 2014 5.0 go from 15 to 20 mpg. I installed all this back in 2020 and my truck has 150,000 miles and run very good.
Thanks! Glad I could help in anyway! I still keep posting new videos. Anything I can show to help someone or show me learning something. That’s why my videos are longer than most but like I say I try to show every step.
@@5.0jeffro On the way to the auto shop on lunch to pick up some throttle body cleaner - it threw a code. I had them read it; Crank Sensor. Driver's side. Part should be there on the first shipment from the warehouse in the morning. I just have 'a whole lot of truck things that need doing' this weekend. After driving back with throttle cleaner and a jumper wire in handthe light wasn't on. And it wasn't on later too. But it came up once so it's gotta come out, can't be trusted. Pondering what other 100k 'things wear out' I'm creeping up on. I've really only done fluid changes and recalls and I'm at 93k Oh and got a new serpentine at 89k when I had the big services done.
@@JagdtMirageif you did all the fluids, and tune up like spark plugs. Now it’s just normal wear and tear items that just come up. My original water pump went out at 79K so just keep an eye on that. I also had the purge valve go out (would be hard to start after filling up). Other wise I just normal wear and tear.
Will a dirty throttle body cause your f150 to randomly turn off when reaching a stop? Mine turns off randomly when I come to a stop sign, park or stop at a red light.... Its not throwing any codes at all and repair shop cant figure out what it is. Can a dirty throttle body casue this ti happen at random? It seems like it doesnt do it when 1st driving but after about an hour of running errands it will start to turn off randomly after doung a complete stop. My f150 is a 2015. Can you olease help me?
I am not sure on that. But I will tell you about a month ago I came to a stop sign and my truck shut off as well. And my throttle body is clean because of this video. It threw no code or anything. Hasn’t done it since. First thing you should check is fuse 27. The fuel pump fuse. They like to melt on these trucks and there is a relocation kit you need to do. Start there. I have that kit so that’s not my issue but that could be yours failing. And at least you will have an answer if your fuse looks burnt.
I had the same problem , for me I found it was the purge valve solenoid. It was bad and went allow suction from the wrong way. Do some youtubing and you'll find it. Real easy Maybe 30 for a motorcraft oem
After the test drive, when I went to park it and put it in park, the rpm's are reving now when in park. They will go up then down like I'm stepping on the gas peddle when in park. Any idea?
I am not sure on that. Maybe it’s just learning still and will stop. If not I know that throttle bodies do fail on these trucks and it’s a common problem with them. That could be a symptom but I am not sure
If you left it plugged in and it did a sweep I bet your fingers will hurt when it closes back on them. Maybe not chop off but you will get a nice wake up call. Once it’s off it shouldn’t do a sweep.
FYI the "carbon buildup" you are cleaning off is actually the pass through gunk that sneaks past the combustion process in your cylinders and is sucked back into your intake through that hose you disconnected first. Carbonization is typically found as hard layered deposits in the manifold and injectors not in your intake.
I’m wanting to do this to my 11’ it’s got 244k and I’m sure it’s never been done. The relearn part is the only thing I’m worried about. I don’t have the jump connecters is it a have to? Or away around it? Or is this just a dumb question
I am not sure if there is another way. I think there is actually but I don’t know it. However, these jump connectors are very cheap. You can get them at an auto part store or Amazon.
@@MM-ig2zqyea I stated that in the video I was sure you can just do that and keep it off the whole time. I mean it makes sense to me just doing that but I went ahead and just did it the “right” way.
@@5.0jeffro didn't check codes yet. but followed the instructions for cleaning the MAF held it away and quick shots of cleaner. Cleaned the TB and IAC Maybe I'll try redoing TB and IAC again. Or possibly I got to much cleaner in the IAC solenoid I didn't clean it with the solenoid turned up. But I only get 500rpm and stalling.
@@wadestclair249on a Chevy I had I some how messed up the MAF by cleaning it. I guess the spray messed up that wire that reads the air flow. That was my thought. I would just see if it has codes and retry what you said
I do not recommend putting any sort of jumpers, especially from the negative cable to the positive post. Disconnect the battery works fine. If you’re really anal, turn the lights on and off and cycle the key with the negative disconnected.
PLEASE HELP have a 2016 f150 xlt 2.7 ecoboost. The wrench symbol comes up on my dashboard, turn truck off and then on and it goes away but comes back when I'm on highway and accelerate. Changed throttle body but still happens, plus throttle body was wet. HELP PLEASE
@5.0jeffro79 yes it says the turbo I'm pretty sure. I can put truck in neutral and quickly turn off then on and it resets itself. I know I should not do that
Didn’t disconnect the battery before disconnecting and cleaning the throttle body and it’s throwing multiple codes and it instantly stalls out. Any advice?
@@baileyzmannI would think that 15 mins would be enough but I have read a few places that 30 mins seems to work for clearing some modules. It’s like if your battery died and you ran to get another battery. Take you 30 mins to an hour and When you put it in and hook it up your truck has to relearn shifts and Everything because it was disconnected.
@@5.0jeffro still just stalling out for me. I’m getting codes P0122, P0223, and U0422. Thinking I might’ve somehow messed up the throttle body when cleaning it but I’m not sure how I would’ve done that.
Seems like you could clean more gunk out of the manifold where you attach the throttle body with a rag before reassembly. Couldn't get real deep, but as long as you're in there...
You can to an extent but it’s not the easiest. You can get a little bit though.
Anytime doing work and you have an engine that dirty use some compressed air to clear the area.
Motor wasn’t that dirty. I have seen far worse where I would blow it off. I usually wipe motor down ever 6 months.
Thanks for this video man! I cannot believe the difference in the idle and throttle response in my f150 5.0! It’s runnin like new with 292,000 miles! 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
That’s awesome! Curious how dirty yours looked with that Mileage!
@@5.0jeffro worse than yours! I didn’t have a wire brush so I used a scotch bright pad and mothers polish with the carb cleaner too. I was looking into this because of that damn wrench light that puts the truck into limp mode and makes it idle rough. Hopefully this fixed the problem.
@@f13killerhocks94if it keeps doing it it could be the throttle body itself going bad. Rough idle can be a lot of things. Especially if you haven’t tuned it up in a while with new spark plugs. Hopefully that cleaning will help.
@@5.0jeffro new plugs is next on the list! But man it’s running so much better! The idle smoothed out completely! And so far the Check engine light is gone
@@f13killerhocks94hell yea that’s good!
I think im do this before i install my oz tune this week thanks.
Do it! I love my Oz tune!
Install a motorcraft oil separator. You will be surprised how much oil it collects that doesn’t go back into your engine. It keeps everything clean from oil residue
Yea I’m thinking about doing one or one on both sides but I heard you only need one.
@@5.0jeffro only the one on passenger side that goes back into intake. I also installed a throttle spacer. A 3” turn down FX muffler system. At 80 Mph I will averge 20/21 mpg. Oil separator, throttle spacer, FX muffler, CAI all made my 2014 5.0 go from 15 to 20 mpg. I installed all this back in 2020 and my truck has 150,000 miles and run very good.
Just followed your great video and works lots better. Thanks for posting
Awesome thanks! I’m glad I could help!
I'mma bout to do this to my 2016; thanks for this; hopefully youtube does great and kicks you some cash to keep goin.
Thanks! Glad I could help in anyway! I still keep posting new videos. Anything I can show to help someone or show me learning something. That’s why my videos are longer than most but like I say I try to show every step.
@@5.0jeffro On the way to the auto shop on lunch to pick up some throttle body cleaner - it threw a code. I had them read it; Crank Sensor. Driver's side. Part should be there on the first shipment from the warehouse in the morning. I just have 'a whole lot of truck things that need doing' this weekend. After driving back with throttle cleaner and a jumper wire in handthe light wasn't on. And it wasn't on later too. But it came up once so it's gotta come out, can't be trusted.
Pondering what other 100k 'things wear out' I'm creeping up on. I've really only done fluid changes and recalls and I'm at 93k
Oh and got a new serpentine at 89k when I had the big services done.
@@JagdtMirageif you did all the fluids, and tune up like spark plugs. Now it’s just normal wear and tear items that just come up. My original water pump went out at 79K so just keep an eye on that. I also had the purge valve go out (would be hard to start after filling up). Other wise I just normal wear and tear.
How long did you hook up the jumper from the negative lead to positive post? Thanks
I say it in the video but 2-3 minutes is a good amount of time. It gives it enough time to do what it needs to do.
Just wanted to thank you for this. Helped me out a lot with my truck. Appreciate you.
Glad I could help!
Was it idling funny or is this just maintenance?
Just maintenance but after I did it and the relearn the truck idled way better.
Great video!!! Did it step by step and notice a dramatic difference. Very through!
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
Good video! Appreciate the thoroughness man.
Thanks for watching and glad I could help!
Will a dirty throttle body cause your f150 to randomly turn off when reaching a stop? Mine turns off randomly when I come to a stop sign, park or stop at a red light.... Its not throwing any codes at all and repair shop cant figure out what it is. Can a dirty throttle body casue this ti happen at random? It seems like it doesnt do it when 1st driving but after about an hour of running errands it will start to turn off randomly after doung a complete stop. My f150 is a 2015. Can you olease help me?
I am not sure on that. But I will tell you about a month ago I came to a stop sign and my truck shut off as well. And my throttle body is clean because of this video. It threw no code or anything. Hasn’t done it since. First thing you should check is fuse 27. The fuel pump fuse. They like to melt on these trucks and there is a relocation kit you need to do. Start there. I have that kit so that’s not my issue but that could be yours failing. And at least you will have an answer if your fuse looks burnt.
@@5.0jeffro Thank you!!!
My 15 v8 did the same, turned out to be the cam phasers
I had the same problem , for me I found it was the purge valve solenoid. It was bad and went allow suction from the wrong way. Do some youtubing and you'll find it. Real easy Maybe 30 for a motorcraft oem
Is the AC on when this happens?
Idle Air Control.
Easy job.
After the test drive, when I went to park it and put it in park, the rpm's are reving now when in park. They will go up then down like I'm stepping on the gas peddle when in park. Any idea?
I am not sure on that. Maybe it’s just learning still and will stop. If not I know that throttle bodies do fail on these trucks and it’s a common problem with them. That could be a symptom but I am not sure
When do you turn back on the lights, A/C, and radio? After the 15 minute idle one by one? Thanks for the help.
I turned them on after the truck got up to temps. But you can turn them on right when you get in the truck to let it idle and then test drive.
Great video my man I appreciate it!
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
That throttle body will not chop your finger clean off..😅😂
If you left it plugged in and it did a sweep I bet your fingers will hurt when it closes back on them. Maybe not chop off but you will get a nice wake up call. Once it’s off it shouldn’t do a sweep.
Very good video, much appreciated
No problem! Thanks for watching!
what pipes are you running. Sounds good
Roush catback system. I have a video on my channel on it however it sucks. But posting a new better one this weekend actually!
Do i disconnect the positive wire also?
Nope just do whatever I did in this video you will have no issues. Just negative terminal like I show.
Great explanation. Easy to see and understand. Thank you.
Thanks for watching! Glad I could help!
I agree! good job!
@@darrelchovanec9150thank you!
FYI the "carbon buildup" you are cleaning off is actually the pass through gunk that sneaks past the combustion process in your cylinders and is sucked back into your intake through that hose you disconnected first. Carbonization is typically found as hard layered deposits in the manifold and injectors not in your intake.
Yup carbon comes from cylinders. That’s why fuel treatments and good fuel help this.
Thanks buddy
No problem! Thanks for watching!
I’m wanting to do this to my 11’ it’s got 244k and I’m sure it’s never been done. The relearn part is the only thing I’m worried about. I don’t have the jump connecters is it a have to? Or away around it? Or is this just a dumb question
I am not sure if there is another way. I think there is actually but I don’t know it. However, these jump connectors are very cheap. You can get them at an auto part store or Amazon.
Some scanner tools have throttle body/idle relearning procedures. The scanner does it all without playing with battery
You don’t need them just connect the negative pole.
@@MM-ig2zqyea I stated that in the video I was sure you can just do that and keep it off the whole time. I mean it makes sense to me just doing that but I went ahead and just did it the “right” way.
Thank you 😊
No problem! Glad I could help.
2003 mountaineer ran decent before cleaning maf and air intake now it's low idle and yes I disconnected the negative before cleaning.
You gotta watch when cleaning the maf. They are very sensitive. Any codes?
@@5.0jeffro didn't check codes yet. but followed the instructions for cleaning the MAF held it away and quick shots of cleaner. Cleaned the TB and IAC Maybe I'll try redoing TB and IAC again. Or possibly I got to much cleaner in the IAC solenoid I didn't clean it with the solenoid turned up. But I only get 500rpm and stalling.
@@wadestclair249on a Chevy I had I some how messed up the MAF by cleaning it. I guess the spray messed up that wire that reads the air flow. That was my thought. I would just see if it has codes and retry what you said
Dude why you look like the guy from
“Gas station encounters “
“She gone”!!
I had to look up what that was haha
I do not recommend putting any sort of jumpers, especially from the negative cable to the positive post.
Disconnect the battery works fine. If you’re really anal, turn the lights on and off and cycle the key with the negative disconnected.
This is just fords procedure and even a tech I know told me I could do it like that. But yes you can just unhook the battery
@@5.0jeffro
Makes sense and it worked
Electrically speaking you are grounding everything. It is helping you to discharge all the capacitor or any device that may store energy.
@@iesaraleguiyes the words I wanted to say but didn’t do a good job haha
PLEASE HELP have a 2016 f150 xlt 2.7 ecoboost. The wrench symbol comes up on my dashboard, turn truck off and then on and it goes away but comes back when I'm on highway and accelerate. Changed throttle body but still happens, plus throttle body was wet. HELP PLEASE
Wet with water? Any codes being thrown?
@5.0jeffro79 yes it says the turbo I'm pretty sure. I can put truck in neutral and quickly turn off then on and it resets itself. I know I should not do that
@@5.0jeffro it was wet with a very little oil
@@kevinpatrick4152it sounds like a turbo issue maybe. I would definitely take it to a shop.
@@5.0jeffro yeah. Thanks
Didn’t disconnect the battery before disconnecting and cleaning the throttle body and it’s throwing multiple codes and it instantly stalls out. Any advice?
Have you tried disconnecting the battery for 30 mins then reconnecting it and trying? That will give the truck time to reset some modules.
@@5.0jeffro i hadn’t done 30m but I’ll do that. I think I had done 15m and tried to do the relearn but nothing yet. I’ll update you thank you
@@baileyzmannI would think that 15 mins would be enough but I have read a few places that 30 mins seems to work for clearing some modules. It’s like if your battery died and you ran to get another battery. Take you 30 mins to an hour and When you put it in and hook it up your truck has to relearn shifts and Everything because it was disconnected.
@@5.0jeffro still just stalling out for me. I’m getting codes P0122, P0223, and U0422. Thinking I might’ve somehow messed up the throttle body when cleaning it but I’m not sure how I would’ve done that.
@@baileyzmanncould have. Google those codes and read about them. But those are some symptoms of a bad throttle body for sure.