Finally I got the ball joint out of the steering knuckle. Tried removing the stud nut and now the nut is jammed. Good news is that the stud is now turning in the knuckle freely. Cut off stud under the nut with Porter Cable Tiger saw. Steering knuckle now free from ball joint stud. Lots of room for big press and ball joint is out of lower control arm. Should have used second nut on stud and backed off first nut with a little help from penetrating oil. May have freed up stud in knuckle. Mercury Blues has ended.
I just spent 8 hours with the same problem and without that type of ball joint separator. Ultimately put it all back together until I get the right tool. Learned a lot and it was great to find this video for confirmation. Cheers!
You might want to grab a $20 ball joint separator. I finally got one and it makes this a lot easier. www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html?campaignid=17889101751&adsetid=140106696912&product=99849&store=3548&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw9IayBhBJEiwAVuc3foUWN-xv1R7cSr5QTt5H2iQO-DsDd_LzKKes8INRsu7GD9QbsuKi3RoC9tIQAvD_BwE
I'm in the middle of this right now, today. This video gave me some inspiration. My ball joint separated, and the knuckle is still on the car with the blunt end of the ball joint struck in it. Guess it's time to take the knuckle off. Pray for my wheel speed sensor; I'm in MN
Just finished. Replaced both front control arms, ball joints, stabilizer bar linkage, and CV axles. Thanks for the inspiration. I love keeping these old elements on the road :)
I'm sort of mid north but have an Element that was driven in the surf. Fortunately, the body and frame look ok but everything in the wheel wells is rusted. I had to the use ball joint press in the same way to replace my knuckles. :-) Thanks for your videos showing normal people how to do auto repair.
I had the hardest time getting those ball joints out also Clint. I ended up using a small jaw gear puller and ratcheted it till the ball joint popped. I thought for sure that I was going to loose an eye if it slipped. Great video. Thanks
I decided to order another and do the other side since this one was so bad. I'm going to go through the front end now and see what else needs to be replaced at 270,000 miles.
Highly recommend you guys do what this guy did to get that seized ball joint out of the control arm. I had the same problem. I used a torch,Wd40,hammer,jack, and a ball joint separator. None of these worked until I used the press tool. It worked like wonders. Would highly recommend renting a ball joint tool press to get those stuck ball joints out.
I thought that only happens to me. Awesome video again Clint. honestly that has to be the hardest ball joint removal I have seen/ better you than me. lol keep up the great work. Yelm WA
2:31 No, in Canada mechanic's labour rate is about $120 per hour. You can buy a whole lot of specialty tools for the equivalent of a couple of hours of mechanic's labour. And, once done with the job, you have the specialty tool for another repair. Although I think your vice-grip trick was cool.
When you consider a job like the one in this video There are a lot of expensive tools that the average person doesn't have. A heavy impact to get the axel nut off ($100). A slide hammer to pull the hub($75). A ball joint kit to pull and install the new ball joint ($75). A wheel bearing press kit to install the new wheel bearing($75). Snap ring pliers($25) then you still have to buy the parts and devote the time. Unless they get bitten by the mechanicing bug and start working on their friends cars, the average person will never use these tools more than once in their life. So it's easy to see why lack of tools might make some jobs intimidating to some folks. That's why I try to focus on using the simplest tool for the job when I can and pointing out loaner and rental tools when it makes sense.
@@clintsearcy3252 I agree with that and I don't like to buy "unitaskers" for that very reason however, as I see it, tools can always be resold afterwards. For example, I'm pulling the engine out of my E because it has worn thrust washers (a less known issue with Hondas that have manual transmissions and high mileage). I can't justify spending $3000 for a shop to do it but plan to sell the hoist and stand after the project.
A method I find works well with track rod ends and would work with this ball joint due to the way it is fitted is to put a trolley jack under it and jack up under the thread so there is a good bit of upwards pressure on it, if that's not enought to pop it free start smacking the hub with a hammer and the combination of both should work.
Jacked my entire ford ranger up on the outer tie rod last week doing a rack and pinion . Snagged a ball joint separator from harbor freight for 21 dollars . Thing sounded like a shotgun when it broke loose 😅.
Watching this brought back too many bad memories but you won out in the end. I'm always reluctant to buy suspension parts from a bone yard because they are apt to be not much better than what you're replacing. Case in point was the ball joint. It was better than what you had but also not long for this world. Curious to see how long the wheel bearing lasts.
I kept the old knuckle and put a new bearing in it for just that reason. So far, the bearing is running well but the junkyard front struts I put in didn't last long at all. Sometimes the junkyard is a crapshoot.
Clint, I have you beat. I’ve spent 10+ hours between yesterday and today, trying to get the ball joint out of the passenger side control arm of my 2004 Element. I’ve used the rental press, two pickle forks, my 44 year old 2-pound ball peen hammer, can of PB blaster, my wife picked up a utility torch this evening. I try using that to heat the control arm end tomorrow morning. I was thinking the same thing, all the videos show them “love taping” the end of the control arm, and bonk, it pops right out! 🤔🥴🫣
@@clintsearcy3252 Finally, the next day - I fired up the propane torch, applied heat to the end of the control arm only, one hammer blow to the side, then a couple of thumps on the thread end of the ball joint, and out of the hole it came! 🥳 Then the next act began. I couldn’t get enough leverage between my 30”, 1/2” breaker bar and just trying to hold it knuckle (hind sight I should have reconnected the knuckle to the strut?). So I pulled out the spare tire, flipped it over, mounted the rotor and knuckle to it with lug nuts hand tight, hoisted it up onto the tailgate of “Dimples”. After another hour, I managed to pop the ball stud through the back of the ball joint. Then I searched my box of old non-name 15mm socket, stuck a short extension in it backwards, applied my 250+ lbs of force, and out the rest of the ball joint came. In total, I ended up with just over 12- hours into getting that puppy out. I’m sure praying the driver’s side comes out easier than that one. Again, thanks for your Element videos. 😎
Popping that stud out took me a good 2.5 hours with the pickle fork, got one of those screw "vice" styled ones that u torque to separate and the forks on that one were about .25" too thick so I got that for nothing. I believe popping the balljoints out of the knuckle with that C-clamp press is whats really gonna be the tough part, havent even gotten there yet but they are cruuuuuuuuusty.
I’m going o need that clamp. My ball joint is broken and separated from the control arm I’ve tried everything except renting that clamp to get it loose. Guess I’m gonna have to spend the money to rent it.
You ain't seen the lower ball joint on my 99 Mercury Grand Marquis. Been there for 24 years. Used the big clamp from under the joint with wrench on long pipe. Finally found you tube video of guy jacking up car. He places metal file between knuckle and lower control arm then suddenly releases the jack. Ball joint separates from lower control arm. Unfortunately tapered stud of ball joint still seized in knuckle.
🤣 THIS IS ME TODAY! Took everything off the knuckle and ball joint got pressed out of the knuckle and the bolt was still stuck on the lower control arm. Going to try this method and blast it with PB Blaster. Wish me luck
i would get rid of that pitch fork ball joint remover and get something with bigger metal. I used a pix axe head and hammered it in my accord. it removed my ball joint- out of the socket easily.
I was so stubborn that I spent a solid 3 hours and broke a hammer and a mallet trying to drive a pickle fork through the joint and I thought it had seized up inside the knuckle until I used the c-clamp style puller from Autozone to squeeze the joint. From there it only took me 5 minutes until the thing popped out and the whole control arm fell to the ground like his did in the video. Now I feel stupid for banging on it and thrashing it around for so many hours and now my forearms took a beating too.
@@yt-user03561 10 second job, been doing it the same way for 55 years and not one failure out of literally hundreds of ball joints and tie rod ends. Pry bar and a Ford hammer.
Any tips that you have for a stuck ball-joint retaining bolt. I started penitrant a week before, got the nut off but can not drive it out, can barely rotate it. The swaybar is in the way, so no impact. Thanks for any ideas. 2011 Sonata, of course the otherside was no problem.
Have you got enough room to try one of these? I bought one and it's worth the $20 but I think you can rent one too. www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
Wassup Searcy! I did my ball joint on the 04 Element today. It was an "El cheapo" from Advance auto parts. I installed it fine but embarrassingly, I had a tough time getting the snap ring on that I bent/broke the snap ring even using the harbor freight snap ring pliers. 🤦🏾♂️ So I left it as is. I felt confident because the ball joint did not easily "fall iin the knuckle. I pressed it in good with the tool using the impact (not Earthquake lol) But paranoia is kicking in. The one I replaced did not have a snap ring so I assume it was an OEM ball joint. Do you think I'll be ok without the ring? I dread having to take it apart again for the ring
On the Nissan Leaf 2014 is flipped so I give it a try with the top section that stuck I did get the bottom section of the ball joint off since unfortunately the ball joint had broken apart and we had tow to a family member’s driveway since more likely to have less compliants from noise neighbors that has nothing better to do than complian; after the ring off on bottom section it was easier to press out don’t need a gym membership just work on fixing your car especially using the ball joint press my goodness;
@@clintsearcy3252 I didn't mean to say that you didn't do a good job! It's just that we all have the days when the damn thing just doesn't want to come apart, a stud breaks etc. I like that that aspect of this job hasn't been hidden here. Keep up the good work :).
@@korobuildschannel597 I used to edit out all the BS and mistakes. But that's not real. People need to see the mistakes and the mess ups. That's how life really is. Just keep at it till you figure it out.
Pressing stuck ball joints out of their enclosure is still one of the tasks that I fear the most. You should wear eye protection. There's lots of metal flying around.
DONT WASTE MONEY IN CHEAP PARTS! Whoever owned my gfs civic used a cheap balljoint and when i was pressing it out o the knuckel, it exploded out the top and now the socket is stuck in there. I get to sawzall most of the way through then hand file it to get it out now. If they still owned the car they would be paying 2x the labor because of the 15 or 20 bucks they saved.... for that chinese pos they used, they better hope their grass dosent get to long this summer..
Ye. I learned something from your video. That some times a guy who at first seems really smart, (getting the snap ring off was real good) but then you turned out to be an idiot. Seems owning that pickle fork since you were 17 prevented you from ever learning an actual workable method for breaking loose ball joints (and probably tie rod ends.) Also if you happen to want to reuse the part your method most usually screws up the grease boot. You need to use a pry bar to put a bit of tension pushing the parts away from one another and very importantly you use a Ford hammer (3 pounder) then on the part where the tapered shaft goes through you whack real hard with your Ford hammer. It normally only takes one or two good whacks for the tapered shaft to be driven from the tapered hole. I've used this method hundreds of times over the last 50 years on ball joints and tie rod ends and never had trouble. This method takes about 10 seconds, doesn't screw up any mating or other surfaces and doesn't harm the grease boot. I've NEVER used a pickle fork but I've seen numerous others do it and fail just like you did. Upon showing a few of them the proper method, the response has normally been "Oh my god is that all I had to do???"
Thanks for the comment, Stephen. I have a question, why would I want to reuse a ball joint that's falling apart? Also, as the title of the video clearly illustrates, I have done a lot of ball joints and never had one give this much trouble. Like you said, just a few whacks with the hammer is usually all it takes. Did you watch the whole video? Have you watched my other ball joint videos? No..? Carry on, keyboard mechanic.
@@clintsearcy3252 really? Yes, yes I did watch the whole video and I laughed all the way through at the stupidity of beating the holey crap out of something that I would have had apart in 10 seconds. I never said to use the crapped up ball joint again. I said if you want to Reuse (a good) ball joint again you won't crap it up not using a pickle fork. There are numerous other reasons to remove a steering knuckle than just a bad ball joint in which case you may want to reuse the good ball joint when reassembling it all. Perhaps you should take a look at another guy's video and find out how to do it right. Feel free to look up Ericthecarguy maybe you'll learn something from someone who doesn't beat the hell out of stuff. Keyboard mechanic? I've been a mechanic for 55 fricking years. And I've never beat the crap out of any car part because unlike you I know how to do stuff the right way.
@@railroaded1991 I believe you're a keyboard mechanic. I get a lot of them in the comments section here. It seems important to you. Carry on. ua-cam.com/video/OoBIYyAF29I/v-deo.html
@@clintsearcy3252 hey just saw a video from apparently a year ago where you actually did use a hammer to loosen a lower ball joint from an A arm. Good job, though you didn't quite do it correctly. If you put a pry bar between the parts and put some tension on it, not a lot, just some (20-30 pounds?), then use a Ford hammer and strike the arm hole at a 90 degree angle. The physics here is that the energy will travel to the tapered side and drive it out. It also deforms the hole for a nano second breaking any rust holding it it. I noticed when you used the hammer you used downward blows, which did work, but better still 90 degree hits will work better but it has to have a bit of tension with the bar "prying" it apart. This also works on all tie rod ends etc.
One thing we all learnt quickly when we first started working on cars was that shit almost NEVER goes your way
Plan for the unplanned.
Broski it never does🤣..something always happens...even the smallest things can become huge at the end
@@tonistarks2874 ohh yeah. You learn that real fast.
Finally I got the ball joint out of the steering knuckle. Tried removing the stud nut and now the nut is jammed. Good news is that the stud is now turning in the knuckle freely. Cut off stud under the nut with Porter Cable Tiger saw. Steering knuckle now free from ball joint stud. Lots of room for big press and ball joint is out of lower control arm. Should have used second nut on stud and backed off first nut with a little help from penetrating oil. May have freed up stud in knuckle.
Mercury Blues has ended.
Good to know I'm not the only one having a hard ass time getting this thing off!
Never in my life have I address so stubborn a ball joint. I'm glad I got it on video.
@@clintsearcy3252 Found a little tool at harbour freight that does exactly what I needed. 20 bucks but I ended up returning after the project.
@@Cxmp-S Is it one of those little ball joint splitter things?
@@clintsearcy3252 sure is. Worked like a charm! Popped in seconds.
Ericthecarguy
I just spent 8 hours with the same problem and without that type of ball joint separator. Ultimately put it all back together until I get the right tool. Learned a lot and it was great to find this video for confirmation. Cheers!
You might want to grab a $20 ball joint separator. I finally got one and it makes this a lot easier.
www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html?campaignid=17889101751&adsetid=140106696912&product=99849&store=3548&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw9IayBhBJEiwAVuc3foUWN-xv1R7cSr5QTt5H2iQO-DsDd_LzKKes8INRsu7GD9QbsuKi3RoC9tIQAvD_BwE
Right there with you...just came off a 2014 Legacy original factory ball joint removal. Great vid!!!!
I bought a joint splitter after this.
I'm in the middle of this right now, today. This video gave me some inspiration. My ball joint separated, and the knuckle is still on the car with the blunt end of the ball joint struck in it. Guess it's time to take the knuckle off. Pray for my wheel speed sensor; I'm in MN
You can do it.
Just finished. Replaced both front control arms, ball joints, stabilizer bar linkage, and CV axles. Thanks for the inspiration. I love keeping these old elements on the road :)
I'm sort of mid north but have an Element that was driven in the surf. Fortunately, the body and frame look ok but everything in the wheel wells is rusted. I had to the use ball joint press in the same way to replace my knuckles. :-) Thanks for your videos showing normal people how to do auto repair.
I try to keep things driveway friendly.
I had the hardest time getting those ball joints out also Clint. I ended up using a small jaw gear puller and ratcheted it till the ball joint popped. I thought for sure that I was going to loose an eye if it slipped. Great video. Thanks
I decided to order another and do the other side since this one was so bad. I'm going to go through the front end now and see what else needs to be replaced at 270,000 miles.
Watch Ericthecarguy on how to do it easy.
@@TheWersum takes me 10 seconds with a small pry and a Ford hammer.
URETHRA! Great video as always Clint.
Thanks!!
Highly recommend you guys do what this guy did to get that seized ball joint out of the control arm. I had the same problem. I used a torch,Wd40,hammer,jack, and a ball joint separator. None of these worked until I used the press tool. It worked like wonders. Would highly recommend renting a ball joint tool press to get those stuck ball joints out.
Glad it worked for you!
I thought that only happens to me. Awesome video again Clint. honestly that has to be the hardest ball joint removal I have seen/ better you than me. lol keep up the great work. Yelm WA
Thanks 👍Yea, the one on the other side popped right out!
So one and a half bags of rock salt and a Lowe's bucket are fair game if they're in the gutter
Exactly!
2:31 No, in Canada mechanic's labour rate is about $120 per hour. You can buy a whole lot of specialty tools for the equivalent of a couple of hours of mechanic's labour. And, once done with the job, you have the specialty tool for another repair. Although I think your vice-grip trick was cool.
When you consider a job like the one in this video There are a lot of expensive tools that the average person doesn't have. A heavy impact to get the axel nut off ($100). A slide hammer to pull the hub($75). A ball joint kit to pull and install the new ball joint ($75). A wheel bearing press kit to install the new wheel bearing($75). Snap ring pliers($25) then you still have to buy the parts and devote the time. Unless they get bitten by the mechanicing bug and start working on their friends cars, the average person will never use these tools more than once in their life. So it's easy to see why lack of tools might make some jobs intimidating to some folks.
That's why I try to focus on using the simplest tool for the job when I can and pointing out loaner and rental tools when it makes sense.
@@clintsearcy3252 I agree with that and I don't like to buy "unitaskers" for that very reason however, as I see it, tools can always be resold afterwards. For example, I'm pulling the engine out of my E because it has worn thrust washers (a less known issue with Hondas that have manual transmissions and high mileage). I can't justify spending $3000 for a shop to do it but plan to sell the hoist and stand after the project.
"In Canada"? I thought it was the case in every country😂
I'm going to have to start wearing safety glasses watching your videos, Clint. That was a bear!
Safety First! I need to wear a diaper next time that happens. I think I pooped my pants just a little.
This is the BEST!! Finally a video that shows a real example of suspension work!!!! The NIGHTMARE...when NOTHING goes as planned.👏👏👏👍👍
Glad you liked it!
"Urethra!" I'm stealing that.
A method I find works well with track rod ends and would work with this ball joint due to the way it is fitted is to put a trolley jack under it and jack up under the thread so there is a good bit of upwards pressure on it, if that's not enought to pop it free start smacking the hub with a hammer and the combination of both should work.
I did try that. Man this this was stuck.
me asf in the garage 🤣🤣🤣 i love this. good job Clint
Glad you enjoyed
Jacked my entire ford ranger up on the outer tie rod last week doing a rack and pinion . Snagged a ball joint separator from harbor freight for 21 dollars . Thing sounded like a shotgun when it broke loose 😅.
It's exciting!!
Watching this brought back too many bad memories but you won out in the end. I'm always reluctant to buy suspension parts from a bone yard because they are apt to be not much better than what you're replacing. Case in point was the ball joint. It was better than what you had but also not long for this world. Curious to see how long the wheel bearing lasts.
I kept the old knuckle and put a new bearing in it for just that reason. So far, the bearing is running well but the junkyard front struts I put in didn't last long at all. Sometimes the junkyard is a crapshoot.
We've found some pretty nice stuff in the road. We take it as a blessing.
Me too!!
Clint, I have you beat. I’ve spent 10+ hours between yesterday and today, trying to get the ball joint out of the passenger side control arm of my 2004 Element.
I’ve used the rental press, two pickle forks, my 44 year old 2-pound ball peen hammer, can of PB blaster, my wife picked up a utility torch this evening.
I try using that to heat the control arm end tomorrow morning.
I was thinking the same thing, all the videos show them “love taping” the end of the control arm, and bonk, it pops right out! 🤔🥴🫣
Dude!! Did you finally get it?
@@clintsearcy3252 Finally, the next day - I fired up the propane torch, applied heat to the end of the control arm only, one hammer blow to the side, then a couple of thumps on the thread end of the ball joint, and out of the hole it came! 🥳
Then the next act began.
I couldn’t get enough leverage between my 30”, 1/2” breaker bar and just trying to hold it knuckle (hind sight I should have reconnected the knuckle to the strut?). So I pulled out the spare tire, flipped it over, mounted the rotor and knuckle to it with lug nuts hand tight, hoisted it up onto the tailgate of “Dimples”.
After another hour, I managed to pop the ball stud through the back of the ball joint. Then I searched my box of old non-name 15mm socket, stuck a short extension in it backwards, applied my 250+ lbs of force, and out the rest of the ball joint came. In total, I ended up with just over 12- hours into getting that puppy out.
I’m sure praying the driver’s side comes out easier than that one.
Again, thanks for your Element videos. 😎
Same here,Same year same side same problem
Popping that stud out took me a good 2.5 hours with the pickle fork, got one of those screw "vice" styled ones that u torque to separate and the forks on that one were about .25" too thick so I got that for nothing.
I believe popping the balljoints out of the knuckle with that C-clamp press is whats really gonna be the tough part, havent even gotten there yet but they are cruuuuuuuuusty.
Ball joints are fun.
I’m going o need that clamp. My ball joint is broken and separated from the control arm I’ve tried everything except renting that clamp to get it loose. Guess I’m gonna have to spend the money to rent it.
This thing is pretty handy and only $19.
www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
Nice tip about the snap ring removal thanks. My only complaint is that Moog sucks now. 😀
We're gonna find out.
You ain't seen the lower ball joint on my 99 Mercury Grand Marquis. Been there for 24 years. Used the big clamp from under the joint with wrench on long pipe. Finally found you tube video of guy jacking up car. He places metal file between knuckle and lower control arm then suddenly releases the jack. Ball joint separates from lower control arm. Unfortunately tapered stud of ball joint still seized in knuckle.
The crazy thing is the other side just popped out with a wack or two from the hammer.
Made me laugh so hard multiple times. At the these are machines, and that was like Yahtzee
My mind is a funny place to live.
🤣 THIS IS ME TODAY! Took everything off the knuckle and ball joint got pressed out of the knuckle and the bolt was still stuck on the lower control arm. Going to try this method and blast it with PB Blaster. Wish me luck
May the odds be ever in your favor!
Next time you have a problem reference to ericthecarguy for how to do it right. 😂
i would get rid of that pitch fork ball joint remover and get something with bigger metal. I used a pix axe head and hammered it in my accord. it removed my ball joint- out of the socket easily.
Wow! That's some heavy-duty ball busting!
It occurred to me the other day that a pickle fork is basically a mini hades bident.
Hail Satin
@@clintsearcy3252 satin is a lovely fabric. Especially on beautiful women.
you have more energy than me to do that. I would of given up 15 mins in on beating the hell out of it LOL. Im happy you got it fixed :)
Spite keeps me going. I can't let the bastard car win. After I finished I sat and cried for a while. ouch...
Sometimes the part finally lets go after 16 minutes and you feel vindicated. Isn't this where we consider the maxim "Work smarter, not harder"? Lol
I was so stubborn that I spent a solid 3 hours and broke a hammer and a mallet trying to drive a pickle fork through the joint and I thought it had seized up inside the knuckle until I used the c-clamp style puller from Autozone to squeeze the joint. From there it only took me 5 minutes until the thing popped out and the whole control arm fell to the ground like his did in the video. Now I feel stupid for banging on it and thrashing it around for so many hours and now my forearms took a beating too.
@@yt-user03561 10 second job, been doing it the same way for 55 years and not one failure out of literally hundreds of ball joints and tie rod ends. Pry bar and a Ford hammer.
Theft by taking according to the right cop that could come by you. But I'd take it, just bought me a 3 ton jack back in March or April 2022
Cops usually don't know much about the law. But if anyone can tell me where they lost the jack I'll be happy to return it to them.
I’m sending this to my customers who ask why I charge what I do😂
I have never had that happen before. Crazy!
Any tips that you have for a stuck ball-joint retaining bolt. I started penitrant a week before, got the nut off but can not drive it out, can barely rotate it. The swaybar is in the way, so no impact. Thanks for any ideas. 2011 Sonata, of course the otherside was no problem.
Have you got enough room to try one of these? I bought one and it's worth the $20 but I think you can rent one too.
www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
Wassup Searcy! I did my ball joint on the 04 Element today. It was an "El cheapo" from Advance auto parts. I installed it fine but embarrassingly, I had a tough time getting the snap ring on that I bent/broke the snap ring even using the harbor freight snap ring pliers. 🤦🏾♂️ So I left it as is. I felt confident because the ball joint did not easily "fall iin the knuckle. I pressed it in good with the tool using the impact (not Earthquake lol) But paranoia is kicking in. The one I replaced did not have a snap ring so I assume it was an OEM ball joint. Do you think I'll be ok without the ring? I dread having to take it apart again for the ring
I think you're good. Id check it regularly.
On the Nissan Leaf 2014 is flipped so I give it a try with the top section that stuck I did get the bottom section of the ball joint off since unfortunately the ball joint had broken apart and we had tow to a family member’s driveway since more likely to have less compliants from noise neighbors that has nothing better to do than complian; after the ring off on bottom section it was easier to press out don’t need a gym membership just work on fixing your car especially using the ball joint press my goodness;
Metal!!
Thank you for making this video, it really cheered me up. Subscribed.
I'm glad. I try not to take things too seriously. It's just a car.
@@clintsearcy3252 I didn't mean to say that you didn't do a good job! It's just that we all have the days when the damn thing just doesn't want to come apart, a stud breaks etc.
I like that that aspect of this job hasn't been hidden here.
Keep up the good work :).
@@korobuildschannel597 I used to edit out all the BS and mistakes. But that's not real. People need to see the mistakes and the mess ups. That's how life really is. Just keep at it till you figure it out.
I feel you bro. The exact same thing happened to me
That was my lower ball joints on Silverado said hell with this break out the cut off wheel
Ohhhhh fun!
You can put the nut back on the ball joint and wack it with a 4 pound sledge. Works great on rusted to shit cars here in Canada!!!
Yea but a 4 pound sledge it so heavy!
@@clintsearcy3252 😂🤣
Now what happens when it’s in so tight the clamp tool bolt bends. That’s where I’m at
In that case you might want to load it up and them whack the lower control arm with a hammer and see if that knocks it loose.
Do you have a video of the popping noise in your steering?
I do not but it's a very distinctive sound.
I know it well… what did you do to fix it?
Pressing stuck ball joints out of their enclosure is still one of the tasks that I fear the most. You should wear eye protection. There's lots of metal flying around.
Safety first!!
Good video mate keep them coming
Thanks, will do!
Specialized tools exist because of the borderline criminal way mechanics are paid. Speed and ease are of utmost importance.
I know why they exist. The average home DIY guy or gal doesn't need them most of the time.
8:44 I definitely saw that coming the moment you put the c-clamp on it. RIP your camera.
Big badda boom.
You need to use the right tools for that, you cant just use that , you need hydraulic press
A hydraulic press to remove a lower ball joint? I think you might be mistaken.
Like Russian mechanics say... Working with gloves its like having sex with underware 💙
I need to feel the steel.
That's what she said.
DONT WASTE MONEY IN CHEAP PARTS! Whoever owned my gfs civic used a cheap balljoint and when i was pressing it out o the knuckel, it exploded out the top and now the socket is stuck in there. I get to sawzall most of the way through then hand file it to get it out now. If they still owned the car they would be paying 2x the labor because of the 15 or 20 bucks they saved.... for that chinese pos they used, they better hope their grass dosent get to long this summer..
No fun!
It ain't stuck if it's liquid. Get the acetylene torch out.
The Joint Is LAVA
Ye. I learned something from your video. That some times a guy who at first seems really smart, (getting the snap ring off was real good) but then you turned out to be an idiot. Seems owning that pickle fork since you were 17 prevented you from ever learning an actual workable method for breaking loose ball joints (and probably tie rod ends.)
Also if you happen to want to reuse the part your method most usually screws up the grease boot.
You need to use a pry bar to put a bit of tension pushing the parts away from one another and very importantly you use a Ford hammer (3 pounder) then on the part where the tapered shaft goes through you whack real hard with your Ford hammer. It normally only takes one or two good whacks for the tapered shaft to be driven from the tapered hole. I've used this method hundreds of times over the last 50 years on ball joints and tie rod ends and never had trouble. This method takes about 10 seconds, doesn't screw up any mating or other surfaces and doesn't harm the grease boot.
I've NEVER used a pickle fork but I've seen numerous others do it and fail just like you did. Upon showing a few of them the proper method, the response has normally been "Oh my god is that all I had to do???"
Thanks for the comment, Stephen. I have a question, why would I want to reuse a ball joint that's falling apart? Also, as the title of the video clearly illustrates, I have done a lot of ball joints and never had one give this much trouble. Like you said, just a few whacks with the hammer is usually all it takes. Did you watch the whole video? Have you watched my other ball joint videos? No..? Carry on, keyboard mechanic.
@@clintsearcy3252 really? Yes, yes I did watch the whole video and I laughed all the way through at the stupidity of beating the holey crap out of something that I would have had apart in 10 seconds. I never said to use the crapped up ball joint again. I said if you want to Reuse (a good) ball joint again you won't crap it up not using a pickle fork. There are numerous other reasons to remove a steering knuckle than just a bad ball joint in which case you may want to reuse the good ball joint when reassembling it all. Perhaps you should take a look at another guy's video and find out how to do it right. Feel free to look up Ericthecarguy maybe you'll learn something from someone who doesn't beat the hell out of stuff.
Keyboard mechanic? I've been a mechanic for 55 fricking years. And I've never beat the crap out of any car part because unlike you I know how to do stuff the right way.
@@railroaded1991 I believe you're a keyboard mechanic. I get a lot of them in the comments section here. It seems important to you. Carry on.
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@@clintsearcy3252 hey just saw a video from apparently a year ago where you actually did use a hammer to loosen a lower ball joint from an A arm. Good job, though you didn't quite do it correctly. If you put a pry bar between the parts and put some tension on it, not a lot, just some (20-30 pounds?), then use a Ford hammer and strike the arm hole at a 90 degree angle. The physics here is that the energy will travel to the tapered side and drive it out. It also deforms the hole for a nano second breaking any rust holding it it. I noticed when you used the hammer you used downward blows, which did work, but better still 90 degree hits will work better but it has to have a bit of tension with the bar "prying" it apart.
This also works on all tie rod ends etc.
Couldn't get mine put so I'm buying a new lower control arm with the ball joint already in it. Too weak to fight. Changing shocks while I'm at it.
I'm probably going to have to get some lower control arms soon.
Yeah but that's taking it off the vehicle
True!!