How to Break Loose a Balljoint From Hub/Steering Knuckle - Honda Odyssey
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- Опубліковано 31 лип 2017
- This can work on many different types of cars! Using my wife's Honda Odyssey, I show you one possible way of breaking loose the ball joint and how to remove and then replace the control arm.
Thanks! That technique for busting the arm loose from the lower ball joint was easy and saved me hours of work.
Straight to the point. It worked, I'm happy, and we thank you.
Thank you so much. That technique was so helpful 👌🏽🙌🏽 managed to change my control arm assembly 🙏🏽
Good job Broo, i like how you explain on not to hit the steering parts with the hammer, it is very important. Also your recomendation about changing the whole fix up control arm that has the ball joint is a +👍.
Im not kidding about this Broo,
But you look and sound more like a computer technician 😏...
That's funny, because I'm actually a computer/media arts teacher. This is what I do on the weekends to get away from my computer!
As simple as this method is it worked for me after trying several other “hacks” to remove that ball joint on a Volkswagen Touareg. Thank you sir for getting right to it and presenting quality info.
Most videos advise against using a hammer on the control arm. They specify using the hammer on the steering knuckle.
Then there is the ball joint press.
at last , someone is paying attention , i was beginning to worry that everyone had lost iit dont know where he got his informatio but its wrong
I tried your technique for about 45 minutes of wailing directly on my driver side control arm to no avail. I ended up wedging a pry bar between the control arm and the suspension knuckle, and sat on the pry bar so I could put my full weight on it while wailing on the pry bar a few inches away from the control arm. Got it loose with no damage to the knuckle after about 5 minutes. Other side took about 7 minutes. Maybe don't do it my way unless you absolutely have to. I suggest finding a pneumatic hammer if it's as bad as what mine were.
Was there any damage to the rubber boot?
Works, thank you
Thanks for vid i hit the subm keep it up
Brass hammers are good. Always can use a brass punch.
Thanks
Also the control arm Is already off so what I am left with is the ball joint
And it's not just a bolt, it's a taper.
Which is why you use 2 hammers on the knuckle itself - to break the taper.
Hmmm just spent the day beating the crap out of my knuckle with a 5 pound sledge, trying to get it off the lower control arm ball joint. It's still on there now... I don't know, I think knuckle is fine. I took the brakes and hub off and this is a 02 Silverado 4x4 so it's a rather robust knuckle.
For some ball joints there is something you might use called something like a ball-joint fork - You hammer it in between the ball joint, the control arm, and the knuckle and it will (hopefully) pop the ball joint out. That being said, I have one and it has never worked for me, even on my old 1985 Dodge Ram 350. And they always wreck the ball joint boot, BTW, so use with caution. You can also get a ball-joint puller of sorts, if the ball joint stud is going in the right direction. In all honesty, maybe you just need a bigger hammer? I can also say that a rust penetrate like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster might also help, although rust usually isn't enough to keep the balljoint on in most cases, but maybe that could help.
@@flxdiy6004 I actually got a set of ball joint forks (pickle forks) that attach right onto my air chisel. Nothing. Used up my entire can of MAP gas heating it. Nothing. Jacked it up on the stud so the entire truck was resting on the stud while whamming the knuckle with the air hammer. Nothing. Now I have some huge dents in the knuckle from the air hammer. New control arms and steering knuckle it is! I think the problem was that somehow the ball joint assembly itself came somewhat undone internally so it moved around despite the upper part still being in the knuckle and the lower in the control arm. Whenever I would hit it, it just sort of bounced instead of applying pressure to the stud that sits in the control arm. Maybe I could have pressed it out somehow, but my air hammer definitely did more damage to the knuckle than I am comfortable with. I guess a 17 year old rust belt truck could expect to get some new suspension parts at some point!
I have an 8lb stubby sledgehammer I call "Thor's Hammer". It's great.
OK so I have a question it might be a stupid one I'm not a mechanic But when I was at auto zone They asked me if I wanted the $35 bowl joint or the whole entire unit and the ball joints already attached I said no when I got the cheaper one As I went to do it I can't get the I don't know what you call it a hex nut The bolt on top that holds the lower ball joint in I can't get that to loosen up at all is it possible that They made These to where you have to replace the whole entire unit that the ball joint sits in
I almost always get the whole control arm when it's time to replace the ball joints. The reason for this being the bushings, actually: They tend to wear out around the same time as the ball joints, so if they're not already going, they might start getting rather bad pretty soon. And you can press in new bushings if you want, but just getting everything done all at once is really easier and probably about the same price in the end. So do yourself a favor and get the whole control arm.
my 95 ram 1500 has to have the upper arms completely replaced
so basically, hit it with a hammer. xD
What if it breaks in the steering knuckle??
This could've been a one minute video. Use a pickle fork, hammer it in there until the joint breaks loose, or rent a ball joint press. This is the way.
💯💯💯
A dead blow hammer is the one you want in this situation.
Mine’s not moving it… any suggestions?
Pickle fork and heat works every time.
Oh my god! Get to the point man!!