Hi,I am ASE certified.You did great.If the c clamp would not hit anything just let it hit the lower arm so you don't have to put your foot against it.And yes they are a tight fit .And nothing of the tool will break,maybe a socket or the breaker bar but the tool is tough.Good video keep making them.
I put the new ball joint in the freezer overnight ( the metal casing of the ball joint contracts slightly allowing it to go inside the housing more easily). Don’t forget to oil the threaded shaft to avoid damage. Also consider tapping bottom of c clamp with a large mallet whilst tightening on threaded shaft. Works for me every time !
A little advice next time you try that when the ball joint starts getting tight tap the control arm with a hammer all around the ball joint and it will actually jump up in the control arm then tighten the tool and repeat hope that helps
Also nit sure how you made your knuckle loose a lot of ppl use a puller or try to a simple Plumbers torch is what I use all the time ! Just heat it good and a couple hits it pops loose
@@JeremiahMcintosh Your not going to hurt the aluminum as long as your not smashing the life out of it. Remember, it holds your tire on at 60+ plus mph. going over/through cracks, pot holes, drip offs and turning. Thats is a tremendous amout of torque going against that whole unit. A few love taps isnt going to hurt it one bit.
Great video and information! I've been watching videos on how to use this tool because I am not a mechanic either and need to do the ball joints on my blazer... Wanted to save some money and do it myself too! Thank You for your video and God Bless!
When you are pressing the ball joint in, you have the C Clamp upside down. The black part is doing the pressing, so it should be coming up from the floor, not down from the top. That's why it's fighting so much, and you had to make the piece. Only do it the way you did it if there is no other option due to clearance. Look at some other videos, and you will see the mistake you made in your setup. It worked, but it made it way harder than it had to be.
@deanhauser6626 I answered all of that above. Once you do it, you will understand. Makes it much harder than it has to be. Just watch other videos and it will make sense.
Jeremiah, thanks for this video and demonstration on how to use the pieces in the kit. I will suggest that the next time you have trouble loosening or tightening something with a breaker bar, consider sliding a length of pipe over the breaker bar handle to get a longer “reach”. The extra length / leverage will make the work much easier. I sometimes use the handle from my floor jack.
Jermemiah, good video. Very informative. I removed a ball joint from my Honda Civic, 2005 LX. I always use the impact hammer. A ratchet or open-end wrench just crushes the stud.
I did the same thing with my axle nut. Snapped it right off and was pissed. Lol...glad to see someone else did that and admitted to it. Thanx for the video
Dont ever sit under the truck like that. I did that very thing one time and she came off the stands and my legs wwere under the front diff and I bet there wasnt more then a 1/4 between my legs and the diff. Only thing that stopped it thank God was the bigger brake rotors I had put on the truck. Had they been stock my nickname today would be stumpy
I was wondering if he had the jack stands , but what about when you have to change the transmission filter etc,you have to have your whole body underneath 😮
Thank you for the video! I'm about to attempt this on my F250 upper and lower ball joints. I rented the tool from the local Autozone- I appreciate you showing how it works!
No problem at all hope you found this helpful. This was my first attempt at doing it I’m glad I made a video to be able to help others. I did have a lot of comments about putting the new ball joints in the freezer the night before which makes them slightly smaller and easier to install. If you try this let me know how it works out and good luck!
Ball joints are easy with a little heat and lube . I have a big impact gun . You need lots of power !! I've never noticed any shrinkage with freezing them . I've done a before and after with thawed vs freezing and it was the same .
Have an F150 with this exact same problem from a press kit rented from OReillys. Funny thing though...your answer to my problem helps me in absolutely no way. Glad you had pipe laying around...but I'm still sitting in my garage with no upper cup.
My kit arrived yesterday. Surprised how heavy it is. From watching the videos, it seems a very useful trick is to freeze the ball-joint, and heat the control arm, then fit. I'm about to find out! Lot of work due to nicking the ball-joint rubber with the separator when removing the drive-shaft for a new CV boot.
I changed the four ball joint to a Ram 1500, they was heavy strong. I use a the kit and a Dewalt 1/2 high torque impact. and tightening the maximum with the pistol, I had to hit him with a brown. They went out, I was surprised by the strength of that impact wrench.
tip.. freeze the joint overnight, also dont hold the clamp w your foot, let it go around to the control arm that way it will hold it and you can stand up and pull on the breaker bar, clean the hole first with a brush and a lil grease will help it slide in
All u have to do is when u run the ball joint up until it bottoms out loosen then clamp and put the biggest sleeve on top and the top piece on that and continue pressing. All while the bottom sleeve and bottom piece are still on the clamp with the ball joint stud still in the middle.
Great job at explaining and using the tool I never changed one till now and this was definitely useful. I just have to wait till tomorrow to get the top adapter or homedepot for a piece of pipe. Thanks a lot
A cooler, 1 bag of ice and a box of table salt. In the cooler for about 30 and it'll push right in. I use this method putting bearings in excavator buckets on the job site. Saved a ton of money from the machine shop guys!
it helps to grease the socket before you press it in .took 6 hrs.on left side half an hr. on the right side once I figuered that out and I was able to use a pipewrench handle for las little bit .last 1/16 of in. is hardest because of debris if not clean enough.
Abewr it was so easy ! Besides the press tools don’t have the right stuff in them like this guys says I used a racer off of a barring to make mine fully seat the ball joint
Excellent presentation of how to for that tool. Could not get same tool to fit install of lower on Dodge Ram 1500 due to using supplied tube spacers bottom AND top. Tried just the flat adapter and all good. Thanks and subscribed.
You are welcome And good luck I hope it goes easier for you than mine LOL. I’ve heard people say put the ball joints in the freezer the night before and they go in a lot easier!
Had Sam problem missing that extra cup and the one that I rented from a ol Riley's so what I had to do was just get ahold pipe wrench and lay it sideways and just open it up just a little bit bigger then the hole to get that 3/16 rise for the o ring put that fitting on top cuz I didn't have no pipe to cut the way you didbut yeah that's pretty smart thinking I try to find a old pipe ir something around the yard 2 that I can trying to cut
Jeremiah, Thanks for the video. I was hurting for you as you tightened it up. Get a stronger impact wrench! The fit is pretty much an interference fit and the aluminum was probibly sheering (galling) in tenth of thousandths at every imperfection as you were pressing the steel ball joint up. Hence the struggle. Also, any slight cocking of the angle between the two causes almost impossible pressures. hence the suggestions of tapping the control arm with a hammer. I hope you use some safety glasses. Those breaker bars and sockets can snap. Helpful video!
Brother I ain't gonna lie. I've been fighting trying to get 2 lower ball joint for a few hours I have the press in/out tool with pie e your talking about But the knuckle seems to be preventing me from getting the c part straight up n down. I have tie rod removed. Guess I'll remove nut from upper arm and get knuckle out of yhe way. But anyhow the paper with instructions that came with tool didn't make sense. Watching you take the time out to make a video saved my day. Thank you and God bless
@@JeremiahMcintosh the techs at the automotive dealerships I worked at. And Kenworth & Pererbilt also. Like trying to get a gear on a shafts They'd heat gear overnight and put shaft in freezer
Where you got your foot? MOVE YOUR FOOT so clamp swings around onto control arm to push on other side of ball joint to make it even pushing in and gives you more leverage! You are trying to push it in on a angle!
You did a great job. My only suggestion is to buy a Milwaukee fuel 1/2" drive impact wrench to help with this job. That's what I use and it makes it much easier than trying to use a breaker bar or similar tool.
Looks like the installation problem may have been you forget to coat the ball joint and the bore with the Permatex. On parts that don't require/include the Permatex, it's a good idea to use some anti-seize (I like the Permatex with copper) as a lubricant. It will also make the next replacement job easier. Blessings 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Nice I just worked on a ford expedition full front suspension ran into the problem I had no socket 7/8 so what I did was I put a monkey wrench 🔧 and also used a big fence pole that fit in one end and just made it go in like butter
Ball joint in the FREEZER- overnight if possible. Dry ice is colder so maybe use the dry ice to finish getting the metal as cold as possible. The metal will contract enough to make the job unbelievably easier
Yes the "overnight freezer method" would I'm sure have absolutely helped in this particular situation without a doubt!! Respectfully, use more science & less brawn & you'll be amazed at the difference it will make. Guys always seem to forget this method of utilising some of natures simple science !! Understandee de englishee??? Best of luck next time around & I'm sorry for all that physical effort that you had to input into geeting this job done!! Bugger!!!
I'm giving you a like, subscribe, and comment because this video is very "real" as far as putting in a ball joint. I get pissed watching the videos where they go "zip zip" with the impact wrench and the ball joint just comes out and goes back in effortlessly within a few seconds. I've spent many hours over 3 days trying to change mine out on my Charger and it doesn't really have a good way to do it on the vehicle and obviously off the vehicle you can't do it with a breaker bar unless you have a heavy duty rig to hold the knuckle/control arm that you are pressing in or out of. Like you, I've cranked on mine so hard I'm afraid I'm going to break something (possibly even me).
Lol yes mine were very hard to get in. If you were to remove the control arm off the vehicle you could use a hydraulic press if you have one. Someone had mentioned placing the Ball joints in the freezer the night before which helps them shrink just slightly and makes them go any easier but I’ve never tried it.
I finally got the 2 on my Charger done - took me 4 days of beating on them and 2 shops that couldn't do it. Literally hours of beating on them with a sledge hammer is what it took to get them out. I'm wondering if prior owner put JB weld on them or something. I completely bent the C clamp trying to remove them. Impact wrench wouldn't even move them a mm
not as bad, but the C clamp broke so I ended up having to hammer them in. I dremeled them out and cleaned them up before the install, and greased them up but not enough to make it easy
I am currently doing the upper and lower ball joints on my Colorado, one side is finished and am on the lower joint first for the other side. Rusted and corroded so badly it looks more like it's fused to the knuckle. No ball joint removal tools have worked so far, using a hammer on the knuckle hasn't worked.
Dude, like you said; you're not a mechanic. I'm not either. But I do have a comment that would make your job either. Use the cup on the bottom to put the ball joint back in. But instead of using this tool, use a flood jack instead. The weight of the car will cause the ball joint back in. You might get lucky and puts the ball joint all the way back in. I didn't get so lucky, I had to use that special tool for just the finish touch to put the final little ring thing. Using the floor jack and the weight of the car is better that fighting with this thing. My idea anyway. Love your video. Thank you for sharing. have a great day. I see this video is at least 3 years old.
I think the lock tight compound might be setting up because of long install time. Measure male and female and determine if setting compound is even necessary.
Jeremiah Mcintosh question, Would do recommend HF press or you op out and take a different brand? if so which one, basically I need to do the same job on Chevy silverado 2004 original bJ's. Thanks great video and explanation.
I’m no professional but You can always try the one from Hf and if it doesn’t work take it back. In the description of this video I have a link of one similar to what I used.
You should not use grease on the new ball joint. That actually fills the gap between the joint and the knuckle making it a tighter fit. Just get the very knuckle clean. If you use any lubricant, use something very thin like LPS-1.
I'm definitely not mechanic by trade but learning more each repair lol put BALL JOINTS in freezer couple days b4 if possible, you can push em in by hand...good day
Thanks for the tip! I definitely don’t think that would have worked for me on mine tho they were super tight! I probably would have broken the controll arm! What was yours on?
i just did this yesterday and yes it is hard to press it back in doing it by hand, i couldnt get my impact on going back in so yea doing it by hand sucks lol
I had to buy that master ball joint kit just to use that small piece to press back in my kit didn't have it from hf $69 investment to have now that it have all the pieces if I have to press and replace joints
You use grease around the ball joint and in the sleeve where it gets pressed Starting the ball joint straight is key so you must go extremely slow when you start. You must have a long 1/2 inch break bar to turn the press and have the right cups/plates to press the ball joint in or out. That " C " is only like 6 inches So you best bet is touch nothing, measure overall lenght with the old ball joint in place then go to the auto parts store to rent with a full size drawing and lay out the parts in the kit to make sure you can cover the ball joint travel in or out. 1 other thing, NEVER EVER put your legs under the car, NEVER! Use jack stands as well as support from floor jack. Pressing takes considerable torque. Hence a long 1/2 inch .breaker bar Slide a pipe over it for an extension, the longer the lever the greater your mechanical advantage; the easier it is to turn. AGAIN, NEVER EVER PUT YOUR LEGS UNDERNEATH THE CAR, NEVER! Have fun, nick.
I wonder if heating the control arm would help? I know when changing steering stem bearings on a motorcycle the bottom bearing will usually just drop right on if heated and the shaft is frozen. It is typically a press fit. I just wonder if the same principle would apply? Need to be careful with aluminum, but on a cast spindle it should be safe
My dad back in the day put ball joints in freezer cleaned the hole and used a little WD40 to help slide in he said the pressure pushed the WD 40 out as the ball joints went in .🤷♂️
They both came with a lubricant that I used before installing them but they were still very hard to press in! Apparently you can freeze the Ball joints over night and then they will go in easier, I wish I knew that trick and will definitely try it next time!
Hi,I am ASE certified.You did great.If the c clamp would not hit anything just let it hit the lower arm so you don't have to put your foot against it.And yes they are a tight fit .And nothing of the tool will break,maybe a socket or the breaker bar but the tool is tough.Good video keep making them.
Thank you Ernesto I really appreciate that!
Exactly, and use your floor jack handle as a pipe extension on that breaker bar. Leverage is an old mans friend here!
that thumb looks good, now you're an official mechanic.
I put the new ball joint in the freezer overnight ( the metal casing of the ball joint contracts slightly allowing it to go inside the housing more easily). Don’t forget to oil the threaded shaft to avoid damage. Also consider tapping bottom of c clamp with a large mallet whilst tightening on threaded shaft. Works for me every time !
Thank you for the tips I’ll definitely give that a try next time I have to change ball joints!
Ok... There's an idea, I didn't think of that one.
And may be use a heat gun to expand the alloyarm.
@@JeremiahMcintosh⅚ ⁶666
I'm doing it on my truck and yes it's very tight to come off. Broke 2 breaker bars.
A little advice next time you try that when the ball joint starts getting tight tap the control arm with a hammer all around the ball joint and it will actually jump up in the control arm then tighten the tool and repeat hope that helps
Thanks for the advice Noel. I did try tapping on the controller arm with a hammer but was afraid to hit it to hard because They are aluminum.
Also nit sure how you made your knuckle loose a lot of ppl use a puller or try to a simple Plumbers torch is what I use all the time ! Just heat it good and a couple hits it pops loose
@@JeremiahMcintosh Your not going to hurt the aluminum as long as your not smashing the life out of it. Remember, it holds your tire on at 60+ plus mph. going over/through cracks, pot holes, drip offs and turning. Thats is a tremendous amout of torque going against that whole unit. A few love taps isnt going to hurt it one bit.
Great video and information! I've been watching videos on how to use this tool because I am not a mechanic either and need to do the ball joints on my blazer...
Wanted to save some money and do it myself too!
Thank You for your video and God Bless!
When you are pressing the ball joint in, you have the C Clamp upside down. The black part is doing the pressing, so it should be coming up from the floor, not down from the top. That's why it's fighting so much, and you had to make the piece. Only do it the way you did it if there is no other option due to clearance. Look at some other videos, and you will see the mistake you made in your setup. It worked, but it made it way harder than it had to be.
how would that matter, its closing the space in between the c-clamp no matter which way, the part doesn't know
@deanhauser6626 I answered all of that above. Once you do it, you will understand. Makes it much harder than it has to be. Just watch other videos and it will make sense.
Jeremiah, thanks for this video and demonstration on how to use the pieces in the kit. I will suggest that the next time you have trouble loosening or tightening something with a breaker bar, consider sliding a length of pipe over the breaker bar handle to get a longer “reach”. The extra length / leverage will make the work much easier. I sometimes use the handle from my floor jack.
Jermemiah, good video. Very informative. I removed a ball joint from my Honda Civic, 2005 LX. I always use the impact hammer. A ratchet or open-end wrench just crushes the stud.
I did upper and lower ball joints last week. It was definitely a bear. You did a great job with the installation. 😎👍
I did the same thing with my axle nut. Snapped it right off and was pissed. Lol...glad to see someone else did that and admitted to it. Thanx for the video
Lol I was actually trying to do it the right way with the torque wrench but my torque wrench never clicked LOL
@@JeremiahMcintosh lol I had mine set at 50 or 60 lol
Dont ever sit under the truck like that. I did that very thing one time and she came off the stands and my legs wwere under the front diff and I bet there wasnt more then a 1/4 between my legs and the diff. Only thing that stopped it thank God was the bigger brake rotors I had put on the truck. Had they been stock my nickname today would be stumpy
Good tip thanks for the advice! Glad you made it out ok!
Why I always put the wheel under car /jack /axle stands to..all about safety
I am currently trying to take the ball joints off of a 2009 Dodge Durango and it's an absolute bitch!
I was wondering if he had the jack stands , but what about when you have to change the transmission filter etc,you have to have your whole body underneath 😮
My friend you doing a great job I was just in the future to get a cast iron fence pipe they will not bend and give you the leverage you need
You made the part you needed . You a mechanic now !
Thank you for the video! I'm about to attempt this on my F250 upper and lower ball joints. I rented the tool from the local Autozone- I appreciate you showing how it works!
No problem at all hope you found this helpful. This was my first attempt at doing it I’m glad I made a video to be able to help others. I did have a lot of comments about putting the new ball joints in the freezer the night before which makes them slightly smaller and easier to install. If you try this let me know how it works out and good luck!
@@JeremiahMcintosh Haha well they've been sitting outside overnight and we're in Utah so I recon they got pretty cold! We'll see how it goes, thanks!
You've done pretty well there
Ball joints are easy with a little heat and lube . I have a big impact gun . You need lots of power !! I've never noticed any shrinkage with freezing them . I've done a before and after with thawed vs freezing and it was the same .
Lol good job! Even the simplest job turns into a mission.
Have an F150 with this exact same problem from a press kit rented from OReillys. Funny thing though...your answer to my problem helps me in absolutely no way. Glad you had pipe laying around...but I'm still sitting in my garage with no upper cup.
TODAY I DID ON MY MERCURY GRAND MARQUIS IN A 5 HOURS MAKE ME TO FINISH IT, BUT I DID THANKS YOU FOR YOU TUTORING GO BLESS YOU 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Thank you I’m glad to know it helped you!
Looks good a battery impact is what made all the difference in the world to me on a 2002 Chevy Blazer , upper + lowers
My kit arrived yesterday. Surprised how heavy it is. From watching the videos, it seems a very useful trick is to freeze the ball-joint, and heat the control arm, then fit. I'm about to find out! Lot of work due to nicking the ball-joint rubber with the separator when removing the drive-shaft for a new CV boot.
Lmao i nicked the exact same thing on my brand new 30$ ball joint, now I need another 😢
Heating the lower control arm (carefully) before assembly, will allow easier installation
Thanks for the tip!
Bro... I totally had this same problem 😭 could not fine a good explanation on the internet thank you hopefully this will help someone else 💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
Happy to help Mike 👍
I changed the four ball joint to a Ram 1500, they was heavy strong. I use a the kit and a Dewalt 1/2 high torque impact. and tightening the maximum with the pistol, I had to hit him with a brown. They went out, I was surprised by the strength of that impact wrench.
tip.. freeze the joint overnight, also dont hold the clamp w your foot, let it go around to the control arm that way it will hold it and you can stand up and pull on the breaker bar, clean the hole first with a brush and a lil grease will help it slide in
You do better work than some of these so called mechanics I have seen.
Thanks Keith! That’s one reason I try to do most of the work Myself!
All u have to do is when u run the ball joint up until it bottoms out loosen then clamp and put the biggest sleeve on top and the top piece on that and continue pressing. All while the bottom sleeve and bottom piece are still on the clamp with the ball joint stud still in the middle.
i put a little grease on the joint and inside the control arm it goes in easy that way
Great job at explaining and using the tool I never changed one till now and this was definitely useful. I just have to wait till tomorrow to get the top adapter or homedepot for a piece of pipe. Thanks a lot
Glad to help!
A cooler, 1 bag of ice and a box of table salt. In the cooler for about 30 and it'll push right in. I use this method putting bearings in excavator buckets on the job site. Saved a ton of money from the machine shop guys!
Good tip but what does the table salt do? Seems like it would make it rust easier?
Lube the ball joint and steering knuckle before installation and lube threads on the install tool to make it easier.
Thanks!
it helps to grease the socket before you press it in .took 6 hrs.on left side half an hr. on the right side once I figuered that out and I was able to use a pipewrench handle for las little bit .last 1/16 of in. is hardest because of debris if not clean enough.
Abewr it was so easy ! Besides the press tools don’t have the right stuff in them like this guys says I used a racer off of a barring to make mine fully seat the ball joint
Excellent presentation of how to for that tool. Could not get same tool to fit install of lower on Dodge Ram 1500 due to using supplied tube spacers bottom AND top. Tried just the flat adapter and all good. Thanks and subscribed.
Thank you Richard! I’m glad this video helped you out!
Yeah it’s not always gonna fit certain cars and truck. I used the cup also on my 1500
great help and explanation on how to use it as I am going to get to do this tomorrow thanks so much.
You are welcome And good luck I hope it goes easier for you than mine LOL. I’ve heard people say put the ball joints in the freezer the night before and they go in a lot easier!
Had Sam problem missing that extra cup and the one that I rented from a ol Riley's so what I had to do was just get ahold pipe wrench and lay it sideways and just open it up just a little bit bigger then the hole to get that 3/16 rise for the o ring put that fitting on top cuz I didn't have no pipe to cut the way you didbut yeah that's pretty smart thinking I try to find a old pipe ir something around the yard 2 that I can trying to cut
This is the exact comment I was looking for
Jeremiah, Thanks for the video. I was hurting for you as you tightened it up. Get a stronger impact wrench! The fit is pretty much an interference fit and the aluminum was probibly sheering (galling) in tenth of thousandths at every imperfection as you were pressing the steel ball joint up. Hence the struggle. Also, any slight cocking of the angle between the two causes almost impossible pressures. hence the suggestions of tapping the control arm with a hammer. I hope you use some safety glasses. Those breaker bars and sockets can snap. Helpful video!
Brother I ain't gonna lie. I've been fighting trying to get 2 lower ball joint for a few hours
I have the press in/out tool with pie e your talking about
But the knuckle seems to be preventing me from getting the c part straight up n down. I have tie rod removed. Guess I'll remove nut from upper arm and get knuckle out of yhe way. But anyhow the paper with instructions that came with tool didn't make sense. Watching you take the time out to make a video saved my day. Thank you and God bless
Awesome and glad it helped you out! Others have mentioned putting the ball joint’s in the freezer the night before That helps them go in.
@@JeremiahMcintosh make it even easier if you could put the control arm on BBQ pit or oven on low temp all night and ball joints in freezer
@@JeremiahMcintosh the techs at the automotive dealerships I worked at. And Kenworth & Pererbilt also. Like trying to get a gear on a shafts They'd heat gear overnight and put shaft in freezer
Where you got your foot? MOVE YOUR FOOT so clamp swings around onto control arm to push on other side of ball joint to make it even pushing in and gives you more leverage!
You are trying to push it in on a angle!
You did a great job. My only suggestion is to buy a Milwaukee fuel 1/2" drive impact wrench to help with this job. That's what I use and it makes it much easier than trying to use a breaker bar or similar tool.
Thanks. I tried my air impact gun but it didn’t work at all!
Need to turn the press the other direction to reinstall
You did professional job.
You made it look so easy
Looks like the installation problem may have been you forget to coat the ball joint and the bore with the Permatex. On parts that don't require/include the Permatex, it's a good idea to use some anti-seize (I like the Permatex with copper) as a lubricant. It will also make the next replacement job easier.
Blessings 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Thanks for the tip I coated it with the included packet that came with the new ball joints.
I had same issue as you tool I rented didn't have small sleeve.. had to make up something
Cool Video. thank you
Nice I just worked on a ford expedition full front suspension ran into the problem I had no socket 7/8 so what I did was I put a monkey wrench 🔧 and also used a big fence pole that fit in one end and just made it go in like butter
Should apply same grease on the ball joint before u press ini..
Ball joint in the FREEZER- overnight if possible. Dry ice is colder so maybe use the dry ice to finish getting the metal as cold as possible. The metal will contract enough to make the job unbelievably easier
Great tip! I wish I knew that earlier, it would of made installation a lot easier!
Harbor freight ball joint tool on sale now with everything included.
Yes the "overnight freezer method" would I'm sure have absolutely helped in this particular situation without a doubt!! Respectfully, use more science & less brawn & you'll be amazed at the difference it will make. Guys always seem to forget this method of utilising some of natures simple science !! Understandee de englishee??? Best of luck next time around & I'm sorry for all that physical effort that you had to input into geeting this job done!! Bugger!!!
I'm giving you a like, subscribe, and comment because this video is very "real" as far as putting in a ball joint. I get pissed watching the videos where they go "zip zip" with the impact wrench and the ball joint just comes out and goes back in effortlessly within a few seconds. I've spent many hours over 3 days trying to change mine out on my Charger and it doesn't really have a good way to do it on the vehicle and obviously off the vehicle you can't do it with a breaker bar unless you have a heavy duty rig to hold the knuckle/control arm that you are pressing in or out of. Like you, I've cranked on mine so hard I'm afraid I'm going to break something (possibly even me).
Lol yes mine were very hard to get in. If you were to remove the control arm off the vehicle you could use a hydraulic press if you have one. Someone had mentioned placing the Ball joints in the freezer the night before which helps them shrink just slightly and makes them go any easier but I’ve never tried it.
I finally got the 2 on my Charger done - took me 4 days of beating on them and 2 shops that couldn't do it. Literally hours of beating on them with a sledge hammer is what it took to get them out. I'm wondering if prior owner put JB weld on them or something. I completely bent the C clamp trying to remove them. Impact wrench wouldn't even move them a mm
Wow sounds like they were a pain to get out! How hard was it to get the new ones in?
not as bad, but the C clamp broke so I ended up having to hammer them in. I dremeled them out and cleaned them up before the install, and greased them up but not enough to make it easy
Mine were the complete opposite they were easy to get out but tough to install. Glad you got it figured out!
Usually freeze them first
Thank you I’ll try that next time And hopefully they go in easier!
How long wouldyou suggest freezing it?
I’ve seen other people recommending freezing the ball joints overnight.
@@JeremiahMcintosh 3 days freezer, i could almost push them in lol. no big barker bar need.
Awesome! Sounds like they went in a lot easier than mine!
het the metal with a small torch and put the ball joint in the freezer. Or try a little tap tap tap on the top of the screw drive. it'll go right in.
I am currently doing the upper and lower ball joints on my Colorado, one side is finished and am on the lower joint first for the other side. Rusted and corroded so badly it looks more like it's fused to the knuckle. No ball joint removal tools have worked so far, using a hammer on the knuckle hasn't worked.
I had to slightly grind the adaptor of correct size because casting on jeep Liberty was slightly angled.
Dude, like you said; you're not a mechanic. I'm not either. But I do have a comment that would make your job either. Use the cup on the bottom to put the ball joint back in. But instead of using this tool, use a flood jack instead. The weight of the car will cause the ball joint back in. You might get lucky and puts the ball joint all the way back in. I didn't get so lucky, I had to use that special tool for just the finish touch to put the final little ring thing. Using the floor jack and the weight of the car is better that fighting with this thing. My idea anyway.
Love your video. Thank you for sharing. have a great day. I see this video is at least 3 years old.
Thanks for the suggestion but it was so tight I doubt it would have went in even half way like that.
That one more suggestion when you pull that bar you should have it level I know it's hard because of torque is extreme level bar level insert
You think torching it would help?
That ford is getting its last set of ball joints that's for sure.
Need more torque, I will be using my electric impact for job, great video.🙀😱😲😢🥵👏🏾👍🏿🤙🏾🇯🇲🇨🇦
I think he needs a bigger compressor
Tell the Wife if she would make some Spinage. POPEYE THE SAILER MAN TOOT TOOT
I think the lock tight compound might be setting up because of long install time. Measure male and female and determine if setting compound is even necessary.
Great job
Jeremiah Mcintosh question, Would do recommend HF press or you op out and take a different brand? if so which one, basically I need to do the same job on Chevy silverado 2004 original bJ's. Thanks great video and explanation.
I’m no professional but You can always try the one from Hf and if it doesn’t work take it back.
In the description of this video I have a link of one similar to what I used.
If you have an impact wrench use it instead of the breaker bar it's much quicker and easier
good job also putting a pipe on breaker bar would give more leverage and tapping control arm
Important! always clean the area with sand paper and use some grease that way the ball joint can slide in easily thanks for reading my comment 🙏🙏🙏🙏🤝
Thanks for the tips. That’s what I did but it was still hard as heck to get in!
@@JeremiahMcintosh it happens boss sometimes
What size was the socket you used
That piece of the pole you cut use the other half for more leverage.
You should not use grease on the new ball joint. That actually fills the gap between the joint and the knuckle making it a tighter fit. Just get the very knuckle clean. If you use any lubricant, use something very thin like LPS-1.
There was a thin pack of a grease like substance that came with the ball joints and that’s what I used. Not sure exactly what it was though.
A larger breaking bar will help. It's all about torque. Great job anyway!
Should have put the ball joint in the freezer and heated up the control arm with a torch then they just go in by pinching your fingers together
Orion tech sells a kit works good for around 42
Should of put a steel tubing in the ratchet makes it easier with a longer extension
Thanks for the suggestion. I was afraid it was going to break!
@@JeremiahMcintosh should be strong enough regarding your ratchet is a good brand
when its the first time and it goes painfully like this you never want to do it again 😂. second time and third might be surprised that it may go easy.
Haha that’s exactly how I felt!
It definitely takes some effort to get in.
I'm definitely not mechanic by trade but learning more each repair lol put BALL JOINTS in freezer couple days b4 if possible, you can push em in by hand...good day
You have to lube the pressing screw, that is why is so hard
If you put it in the freezer before installing it will go easier as it will shrink the metal.
I used a hammer to knoke it out then putting it back in I used a 3 ton Jack worked good for me
Thanks for the tip! I definitely don’t think that would have worked for me on mine tho they were super tight! I probably would have broken the controll arm!
What was yours on?
It was on 2005 mercury mountaineer
What did you use on the opposite side of the jack? I can’t picture this with the control arm still on the vehicle
i just did this yesterday and yes it is hard to press it back in doing it by hand, i couldnt get my impact on going back in so yea doing it by hand sucks lol
I’ve seen others comment about sticking the new ball joint in the freezer overnight. I will definitely be trying that next time!
I had an 18 inch ratchet add a 4 ft cheetah pipe on mine doing it it was very hard to do
I had to buy that master ball joint kit just to use that small piece to press back in my kit didn't have it from hf $69 investment to have now that it have all the pieces if I have to press and replace joints
Good Job...!
You use grease around the ball joint and in the sleeve where it gets pressed Starting the ball joint straight is key so you must go extremely slow when you start. You must have a long 1/2 inch break bar to turn the press and have the right cups/plates to press the ball joint in or out. That " C " is only like 6 inches So you best bet is touch nothing, measure overall lenght with the old ball joint in place then go to the auto parts store to rent with a full size drawing and lay out the parts in the kit to make sure you can cover the ball joint travel in or out. 1 other thing, NEVER EVER put your legs under the car, NEVER! Use jack stands as well as support from floor jack. Pressing takes considerable torque. Hence a long 1/2 inch .breaker bar Slide a pipe over it for an extension, the longer the lever the greater your mechanical advantage; the easier it is to turn. AGAIN, NEVER EVER PUT YOUR LEGS UNDERNEATH THE CAR, NEVER! Have fun, nick.
I wonder if heating the control arm would help? I know when changing steering stem bearings on a motorcycle the bottom bearing will usually just drop right on if heated and the shaft is frozen. It is typically a press fit. I just wonder if the same principle would apply? Need to be careful with aluminum, but on a cast spindle it should be safe
I’m not sure but a few people have mentioned freezing the ball joints overnight.
Put the new bolt join in the freezer and before install heat a little the piece to help expand a few thousandths of the inch.
Thanks for the tip I’ll definitely try that next time!
the struggle was real....in getting back in....never seen anyone work so hard....but, it worked...
It sure was difficult! I should’ve put the ball joints in the freezer the night before🤔
C clap should rest on the frame {on the left side} and not you foot.
My dad back in the day put ball joints in freezer cleaned the hole and used a little WD40 to help slide in he said the pressure pushed the WD 40 out as the ball joints went in .🤷♂️
Is that white bucket your jackstand?
Lol no. Someone else said the same thing!
Mantf.tuh alat cah kalw beli di mana?
Lube is your friend..
Should have cooled the new balljoint in the freezer before installing, would have made the pressing easier.
That’s what I’ve heard. Wish I would’ve known that when I did it. Lol thank you for the advice.
Use impact tools for easier install
I tried but with the impact gun I had it wasn’t budging.
I was sore for days after I did this haha!😜
😂 lol me too
Dam I'm a lil guy i don't think I can do this unless I have a breaker bar the size of a Daytona jack
you should put some oil on the ball joint before inserting it in
They both came with a lubricant that I used before installing them but they were still very hard to press in! Apparently you can freeze the Ball joints over night and then they will go in easier, I wish I knew that trick and will definitely try it next time!
I have also did mine it was very hard 😢
Agreed! Did you succeed?