Fiberglassing Basics [E62]
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- Опубліковано 17 січ 2023
- #howtofiberglass #fiberglass #boatbuilding
We hope this How to Fiberglass tutorial will help folks who are learning how to do their own fiberglass projects on their boat. We'll be back to our more usual content next week!
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Just what I needed to continue building my spaceship
excellent! Where you are blasting off to?
@@TheDuracellProject Dark side of the moon, looking for baddies
@@Murphy5-5 its the best place i know of to get exp
Hope you're not using this channel as a guide for your spaceship, pretty sure they're building a boat
Great material choice 😅
As an Aerospace Engineer I want to say it’s awesome that you are so willing to share your experience and knowledge with others. Knowledge should be shared!!!! Thank you both!
agreed!
I've been waiting for this one for a while. I've been pretty curious how you keep from having to throw a ton of stuff out after every glass job. This is a super good tutorial; Thank you!
glad you liked it!
Brilliant vlog, thank you so much. As a novice user I've learned a great deal
Great job, as a fellow tinkerer I've done my fair share of glass. I'd only add to new folks, there are charts for recommended amounts of resin to glass ratios if your guestimating amounts to mix per square inch.
Matt you're a wealth of knowledge. I love these videos, you teach so well with such a calm tone and ease of movement. Thank you so much for taking the time out to do this, if you're like me you like to get on and be doing things;) Anyhow sending positive energy to you both from the Emerald Isle....Neil.
Thanks for the knowledge Matt, your Craftsmanship is top notch✌️
I've been doing glass work for decades and I'm still picking up tips. Awesome video
Awesome stuff! I've watched every video and having a few side videos like this is totally amazing! Please keep doing them :) Thanks so much!!
As Doug says below, fantastic tutorial..... and I was grateful for a glimpse in the bucket haha
all the best for 2023 from down under, looking forward to seeing the project develop.
Happy new year!
Matt love this video, I keep it in my playlist I am going to do some fibreglass work on my boat sealing up deck holes and re bedding my deck hardware had to watch again, for tips and tricks, thanks a lot for making these types of videos it really helps us out. 😊
Another great video. I really like your idea for getting the thickened epoxy into the freezer bag. We will be using that idea next time on our project. Thank you for sharing.
Great video. Good clear explanation and presentation of examples.
Thank you for taking the time to go over this for us. And as usual a nice femenine touch at the end, always on point, thanks for the words of encouragement.
The videos of just the boat project have been extremely helpful for my own boat project. Thank you!
Nice video, and well explained ! When doing epoxy work, I use polyurtehan medical gloves, and when it gets complicated, like needing to get a couple of layers of glass in a difficult place, I always wear two or even three gloves , one over the other. So when I need to have clean hands, for example when I have to quickly cut a new piece of carbon or glass, I simply get rid of the top layer of gloves. It is also nearly impossible to quickly get fresh gloves over sweaty wet hands, over a set of gloves, no problem...I always use a very precise digital scale to get my epoxy mix and put the scale in a ziplock bag to keep it clean. Sometimes it is also very nice to put some veryfluid glass bubble filler epoxy over half cured glass and only then apply the peelply, roll it firmly in. This fills the weave with the glass bubble filler and reduces sanding a lot..
Cheers Matthias
those are all excellent additions
Have not done as much with Fiberglas as you. You did a great gob of introducing any hobbyist how to get stated.. I have always used the west system but is just because that is where I started. Use the special hardener so that it does not yellow or have the oxygen inhibited layer. Good job!!
Thank you for the tips. That will be very useful for many people I'm sure.
Great timing. I am about to make a new battery box for my boat, and this was a great primer.
So happy you guys made this video.
Very good video. This gives me something to reference for my own upcoming fiberglass epoxy project. Thanks.
That was really good, I’ve never used peel ply and have often wondered if you have to use more epoxy over it, answered! My first laminated surface was laughable but it works. Just do it and you get better, I’ve improved a ton. I do love total boat, you can email them with any questions and they really do email you back either that day or the next. They’ve really helped me out with my motor box epoxy paint, it’s awesome! Weenie roller, it’s my favorite, also I don’t feel so bad about my fin roller being crusty now, thanks!
Gracias por tu tutorial, fue muy útil y claro.
Great to hear you explain it in detail. I kinda wish I had something I need to fiberglass after watching that!
Thanks, Lots of good info. One of my favourite tools is the Olfa rotary knives. Fast for cutting out shapes. For cutting non standard tape widths in woven glass I pull out a strand of glass which leaves a line in the cloth easy to follow with the rotary knife. An old piece of plexiglass makes a good cutting board. A lot faster than scissors.
Master in explaining. Great video
Just one word: brilliant!!!
Great episode.I never considered waiting for the fillet to dry prior to laying the glass - curious how work flows differ. Did steal the spin top bucket concept - much easier than cleaning each indidvidual tool after every use. 👍
Thanks for sharing your tips and tricks!! So informative! 👏🙌
Excellent lesson. I helped my dad strip fiberglass and reapply on a Chris Craft boat in 1965....I still itch from that ordeal.
My favorite episode so far. I learned a lot. Thanks so much. Cheers
Yay!
that's a gift! Thank you for this video. Of course it is interesting to watch your progress with Duracell, but this video is much more interesting for me as it has more "technical vibe" :-) Waiting for more such content 🙂
The info is amazing Matt. You make the process look easy. Never knew to fill the corners. Also I used Total Boat paint on my sailboat. I still get compliments 3 years in. Cool partner for you two. No cat though 😅
Really nice tutorial, keep up the great videos
Thank you for this Episode.🙏
Great intro tutorial. Much appreciated
Thank you for this!
Super great info video, appreciate you taking time for this !! Regards, Brian Guldbech, Denmark
Great tutorial! Thanks
That was super helpful, thank you.
You Definitely have a neck for answering all my questions all I have to wait and listen Cool videos
Thank you .AWSOME video thank you
It would be interesting to hear your take on vacuum bagging.
I enjoy it and ultimately I think it's a stronger and lighter product
Pre wetting out glass on a hard plastic surface with a spreader is a definite win when doing tricky access or over head work and uses less resin
Great tutorial.
Great episode guys, thank you. I’m following along but late to the table and I haven’t allowed myself to watch new episodes so I don’t know how far along you are yet:)
Welcome aboard!😊
Well done - thanks
Werner fron Germany
Nice video which covers it quite good! I add in here; For a beginner it it is very helpful to make your own layering /strength/thickness reference of the fiberglass you use as a first project. To have some idea how strong 1,2,3 and more layers become and how thick. Which is a nice reference for repairing old cutouts, making hull repairs etc.
And learn how many layers you would need with a certain cloth for an amount of strength and thickness. Sounds already more difficult than is:)
But every time i use new cloth or a new combinations of cloths i make one. And from these references i learned a lot, and after a while not using a specific cloth, i grab my own made reference to be sure.
From the fiberglass of your choice cut a band of 2 inch wide and 18 inch long.
A second same width but 3 inches shorter, The third again 3 inches shorter, and so on you can fit it to 6 layers.
Put a piece of plastic down larger than the largest band, and and wet it out with epoxy, (brush)
then put on the second band. Making sure that of the shorter ends is exact on the lower bands end. Continue with all layers. On one end the six layers are on top of each other, on the other ends you have some sort of stairs of layers.
Let it harden. Then sand of the rough edges . Of the sides only!
Then mark with a sharpie mark the end of each layer for ease of viewing/counting. You can if you want measure with calipers the thickness of each step and write it onto each layer. On the back side write exact what type, weight of cloth and epoxy is used. Et voila!
Awesome!
Soooo grateful for this ep, Matt. Thanks to you, your partner, and all those who support you!🙏🏻🤙
thanks for watching!
I’m fiberglassing the inside of a concrete koi pond so this is very helpful although I’ll be using the polyester resin not epoxy
I also wonder whats the difference among these 3 main resins (aside of the price and odour): Polyester, Vinylester and Epoxy?
@@ammartinezguzman Cost: (cheapest first) Polyester; Vinylester; Epoxy
Hardening time: Both -esters are very fast. Epoxy as a rule 24 hours.
Most important: -esters need a solvent to get out and evaporate, (this leaves tiny channels) this makes it vulnerable to osmosis (Vinyl solves this...) Epoxy is 100% solids, (no solvent) which makes it impenetrable.😉
Edit:
Very important too: because it's 100% solids, there wil be 0% shrinking while hardening, unlike -esters.
@@ammartinezguzman maybe I can deep dive answer somethings that are generally true, exceptions are common. Matt has a special need to create flat panel, so is limited to non-shrink epoxy, slow, but no wasted parts from warpage. Also I varied the order of high to low, so read carefully. At Standard temp 21 c or 70 F Viscosity-Highest to Lowest: Epoxy, Polyester, Vinylester. Cure Time--shortest to longest: Polyester, Vinylester, Epoxy. Total Strength-- (here the actual comparative range is only 20 percent). Lowest strength to highest: Polyester, Vinylester, Epoxy. (special note in most cases all resin and fiberglass layups exceeds strength requirements by a factor of 500%) Shrinkage-- Highest to Lowest: Polyester 3-8 percent based on cure rate, 4 percent is nominal. Vinylester 2 percent. Epoxy none. Lamination Speed: fastest to slowest times: non bagged, Vinyl Ester, Polyester, then epoxy, at least 2x long for me. Best use. Epoxy,-- Mechanical bond joints, both fiber and wood. Polyester-- laminating production as a chemical bond is made. Vinester-- vacuum bag design product, not recommended for open or hand layup, in vertical as it runs off and has low surface tension so greater degree of fiber lift or "bridging" in radius' causing air pockets.There is a additional more common professional grade of Polyester you don't mention, Isophthalic, Resin. It is between General Purpose Polyester (Orthophthalic or Ortho) and Vinyl ester in mechanical bond strength. Isophthalic or ISO, is the repair resin of choice, cost, speed, less than 2 hours, 24 hour chemical bond, and much stronger mechanical bond; it is the industry standard in boatyards world wide. Air Roll Bubbles-- out Easiest to most difficult: Polyester, then Epoxy. The viciousness of epoxy requires a lot time wetout or rolling which causes addition air entrainment, and also retention of air bubbles if open laminating. So very slow using a nair roller, and the main reason to vacuum bag Epoxy and get that "20 percent extra strength" (I love this channel, but air roller diameter for 1st and 2nd layer should be 1/4" or 3/8 to remove air bubbles, diameter is squenced to # of layers, so 1/2"and 3/4"are when you have multilayer layups. They go up to 3" for large areas, and don't leave impression or tracks in wet layups is the reason.
An exception is Vinylester resin, is primarily designed as a Gen 1 vacuum bag resin, (as opposed to infused bagging) you pour estimated amount, squeegee spread, cover with bag, then do final squeegee of air bubbles. Shelf life shortest to longest: Polyesters, then Epoxy. IN fact epoxy is nearly indefinite shelf life. IN consumer use, all polyester products are actually stale dated and repackaged industry products. Even though some difference occur Polyester, stored properly, are useable up to 3 to 18 months after you buy the stale stuff. FWIW new or "guaranteed" properties polyester will have a test proof documentation, and a mfg date that forms the guarantee, cost 2x as much though and 90 days typical shelf life from date of manufacture.
Polyester is cheaper but less resistant to moisture than epoxy or vinylester, which is why most commercial boats use vinylester below the water line and polyester above it.
@@markkeller8915 WoW, quite an answer!Thanks then obvious questions, which of the 3 will you use for refitting?
Thx Matt
Good Stuff!!!
Thanks!!!
All my fiberglass projects are much smaller scale, but very informative.
The simplicity you have made this is incredible, I've watched many other glass work, and this method seems to me the absolute most effective. Do you have any concerns of over exposure with all these different chemicals?
Excellent video!!
Can't wait to see this all completed!
I'm following safety protocols to the best of my knowledge
Thanks for the show &tell! Curious about the vacuum setup for flat usage?
What is the small metal looking roller?
You should do this for your vacuum bagging. That would be awesome.
Nice one. You very perfectly. Must experiences, you can see that.
Very interesting thanks for sharing. :o)
Jajaja this video is a masterclass 🎉❤
Masterclass.
I use a pump like yours for small stuff like 3 to 5 pumps. After that I use a gram scale. Faster really accurate. Try it $35 at staples.
Taping on wet filets: good! When i do epoxy for my fiber i do 1on1 in weight ratio fiber/epoxy. Ex: 200g of fiber for 200g of epoxy. I just weigh my precut fiber and make epoxy of the same weight.
1:15 actually latex gloves are pretty much good only for water. Of course they will provide some protection, but there are other gloves specifically rated for epoxy and acetone. Though I would probably be too lazy to buy the proper gloves myself.
Yep, my experience to! I use Nitril gloves only.
Great video, I love the project, and I always get the feeling a bong is sitting just out of shot , this is not a criticism, I hope the boat turns out awesome and you guy dominate the seas on it!
Haha, no bong on the side….things would move very slowly and with a lot of giggling if there was😂
Great explanation. I especially appreciated the visual demonstration of technique interwoven with the explanation of materials. I've never done any fiberglassing but with this video I wouldn't be afraid to try something.
Thanks for the video 👍👍😁
Do you have to clean the grooves on the fiberglass roller?
i don't...the acetone in my tool bucket helps a bit!
great video, thank you Matt, what about the double pump mixer for the resin?
it's a more expensive tool that i bought for doing big projects. smaller pump kits are available with standard Total Boat epoxy kit and are very easy to use.
wow. this afforded me all i needed for my project. please where can i get the pureply or so...
Hi Matt, many thanks - really appreciate. Im considering a fairly large effort on an interior refit. Two Q's - 1. how long would this bench back/ shelf area take (without filming)? 2. what would you do if you wanted a wood finish - somehow do the work in solid wood, or follow your process and then glue on a veneer?
1. for me, just to glue and tape it in took between 1 and 2 hours. depends on how much prep time is included...the 2 hours includes prep time. 2. you could do it both ways. you could build it in plywood or glue on a wood veneer on top of the fiberglass.
Best of luck if you decide to go forward with your interior refit!
Awesome :)
Could you also share some insights on your vacuum techniques and accessories you use for that?
I can try to do this in a future ep!
Hey, you asked for questions, so.
Questions: Can you fiberglass directly on plywood? If I use fiberglass on the seams and corners of a plywood project, do I sand down the line formed by the edge of the fiberglass tape, or should I use a filler in the field such as fairing compound?
Thank you for the technical advice Matt, and GREAT WORK as always on the production side Janni!
Hi Bob, yes you can fiberglass directly on plywood. I would probably use a filler. It would probably sand through the veneer of the plywood...so I'd use the fairing. Best of luck with your project!
@@TheDuracellProject Thank you so much! You are both so generous in sharing yourselves with us! I don't take that lightly or for granted. I appreciate you both Janni and Matt!
awesome info ..can you go over the foams you use : ) diferent uses , sizes and types
The short answer is that I am now using PET for the interior and PVC for more structural areas. I am also re-using as much as I can from pieces that I've cut out, which is PVC foam.
New to the channel! Looks great sofar! I'd put a steering wheel and navigation inside the dog house. If you are crossing vast distances maybe it would be nice to not have to be exposed to the elements.
welcome aboard!
@@TheDuracellProject Thank you very much! 🙏
Fiberglass work is not my thing, but I watched it anyway. 👍👍
Nice How to video, I've loved all of them. One question though, I've noticed that in some of the earlier videos you wetted to the fiberglass before applying it to the surface but now you are applying dry fiberglass to the surface then wetting it out in place. Why the different approaches?
yes, both ways work. when i was wetting it out first i was using biax and laminating it on the table to a piece of plastic. biax stretches/deforms really easy so laminating to the plastic keeps its shape and then I can put it up overhead more easily. Both ways work. I've found that when doing it overhead it was easier to do it on the table.
You have a great way of explaining your process, as I had a question in mind you answered it. I see a few of my contemporaries using carbon cloths. Is that something you would try?
I am using carbon on some areas of the boat that need extra strength. chainplates will be totally built out of carbon and in the traveler bulkhead I used carbon. For other areas of the boat, it's not necessary for our purposes.
Could you share your reasons for using epoxy vs polyester resin?
First of all, thanks for some great inspiration for dreaming big! What is your procedure for multiple layers? Do you let each later cure with peel ply, or do you make it in one go? Also, was this demonstration directly on the foam or was the foam already glassed?
Yes I do it all in one go if it’s not too thick. Only if I am laying up many layers do I do it in multiple rounds. I am laying up on glassed foam!
Great vid, again :) Clear and understandable!
Do you use epoxy exclusively on this build? If so, why? Many prefer polyester for certain parts, but that might mostly be for economical reasons? I tend to only use epoxy myself, as I feel safer about the chemical bonding then. But what are your thoughts on epoxy vs polyester?
Hi Svein, some other folks have weighed in on this question in the comments section too. I like epoxy because it's less VOCs and it's stronger and a little easier to use (and I have way more experience with it) but it is more expensive. I don't have any problem with polyester resin, I just have less experience with it, but I really don't like the VOCs that come with it. So I guess taht is my problem with it. I use epoxy exclusively.
I was wondering can cardboard be used as a moulding forum, what sealer would you use, so a colour gel coat is lays down first then followed by carbon fibre glass
You’re a master in your trade mate. Best wishes from Australia. 🇦🇺
Thanks for this one.
Have you ever tried cleaning epoxy off of things like spatula's and metal rollers with plain vinegar? It neutralizes the epoxy perfectly, is more environment-friendly and is much cheaper.
If you did, what made you to stop it? If not, please try... (it prevents your roller to get aggravating stuffed up)🙂
I don't know the total boat product, but the toxic stuff in the epoxy I use (I'm Dutch) penetrates the latex gloves.
(I learned the hard way and have developed a massive allergy) Only the Nitril ones work fine for me.😁
I will give vinegar a try! Sorry to hear about the allergy you developed. I have never had a problem, but maybe I should look into nitrile gloves too
@@TheDuracellProject A bottom of vinegar and a brush, then get rid of the vinegar with a little soap and water, rinse and dry.(same way if you've got it on your skin)🤷♂
Acetone really only is like thinner, the epoxy still stays.😒
You will be amazed!😁
Great Video! I’m curious when you would use polyurethane instead of epoxy. I have soft spot on my deck and read different opinions on what to use. Thanks!
Most boats are made of polyester resin, so most likely yours is too. It's probably okay if you want to use epoxy because the resin has had lots of time to cure. Duracell is built of polyester resin, but because it's so old, the polyester resin has had a long time to cure. I like epoxy because it's less VOCs and it's stronger and a little easier to use (and I have way more experience with it) but it is more expensive.
Amazing. Thanks for the reply! This makes a lot of sense
20th fan LIKE; 40th desktop shipmate view. "Epoxy Frosting" - mmmmm... I think I'm feeling the need to compose another 'choon'. Hee-Hee-Hee. :0)
Need help, What is the green foam board you use and where do you buy it? Thank you in advance John
5 pound Divinycell. I buy it from Fiberglass Supply in Anacortes, but you can get it other places too!
Like a Fibreglass Mr Miyagi.😁
😂
When you mix a large amount at the one time, how do you prevent it from heating and going off? Whenever I have made a large amount, e.g a handful size, I have had to immediately spread it out on something flat to prevent it getting hot. You didn’t seem to need to worry about that?
I use slow hardener and if I'm mixing a large batch, I spread it out quickly. If I can't spread it out quickly enough, I'm mixing too large a batch.
hi, what fiberglass would you recommend for doing major re-enforcement?
thanks.
what's used most often is some heavy form of double bias or heavy woven roving, but it's very project specific
Will you paint over this fiberglass? Or what is a gel coat? Is it an epoxy layer on top of this?
Yes I will paint. A gel coat is a tinted polyester resin that is usually used in moulds so any production boat will have gel coat. We won’t use gel coat though, we will use paint.
I'm using your method to convert a chest freezer into a Cold Plunge. Should I still use "EPOXY RESIN" Or Should I use "POLYESTER RESIN" ?
You can use either!
Thank you for this tutorial! Do you have any estimate of how much epoxy you will be putting into your project?
Haha, no idea! A *****ton? ☺️
u'r a fkin PRO
For boat fibre glass what supplier do you use and what prices range can I expect?
fiberglass supply in Washington.
This video is excellent and answers a number of questions I’ve had but didn’t bother to ask. There’s no reason this video should have a third the views of your other videos based on the content, so I think the problem is your title and thumbnail. I think people see “Fibreglass Basics” and think “I already know the basics so I don’t have to watch that”. Instead a better title would be “Matt’s Laminating Secrets Revealed” or “Laminating Tips & Tricks from a Boatyard Pro” - something that creates intrigue and compels people to click!!! If your click-thru rate is low changing the title might help!
That’s a good tip! Maybe we will change the thumbnail and see! We were getting so many requests for this type of video from viewers so decided to make it…and we are glad that you and others find it useful!
@@TheDuracellProject I think Matt is not only very skilled at his craft but also very good at explaining what’s going on. And if he misses something a gentle prompt from his stage manager/director/producer does the trick!
Moonlight runners have more ideas also, follow them!
What was in your screw top bucket. Is it straight acetone? Does this not evaporate really quickly?
Oh and this was a really great episode so helpful. Thanks
Yes straight acetone. I keep the lid on!
No affiliation with Duracell the company…. Yet! Haha you should definitely reach out to their marketing department and see if they’re interested
they're not :)
this is a good episode. Thanks. I wish you had discussed some hazards. You wear respirators, but what about eye protection? Does the fiberglass chard off and get into your eyes? Sometimes I see you wear complete body suits, taped off wherever your skin is exposed. Why?
no i have never had fiberglass get in my eyes. I definitely wear eye protection when sanding and when using anything with VOCs etc., but that goes without saying
I bet the acetone stings like hell, when it gets into contact with an open wound or cuts 😂