Skilled craftsmen are a national treasure. Once we lose the manufacturing we lose centuries of knowledge to the point where we will never recover it. Terrific video
There is an old saying "God is in the details" Clearly the makers of this video understood the importance of the details in this considerable process. Well done lad's.
Very well structured, informative video... Instantly added to favorites and will be referenced several times for my upcoming first fiberglass project. Thanks for posting.
@GasserGlass Hi thank you for your reply, The methods we use in some of our videos are quite basic, the company producing these moulds do have more advanced methods but we try to keep the demonstrations to basic hand lay up without the need for spray or sometimes trimming equiptment. some of our customers buying our materials are first time user who may not have access to spray guns and pnumatic tools etc, hopefully we will get the time to demontrate other methods in future videos, Kind rgds
If you're NOT making production pieces....which need to be as close to PERFECT as possible.... you CAN skip the gel coat step. But this will give you a part thats not smooth as glass so you might have to do some finishing afterwards. Also keep in mind if the part you're molding has a deep well like the one in this video....you might have a difficult time removing it from the mold. Gel coat is very important when making repeatable molds and will reduce finishing time.
Hi The Gelcoat is the durable, cosmetic and more often pigmented finish you would see on the part you are producing, it provides weathering and water resistant properties on the part surface, you could pore silicone in just as always try a small test piece first, hope this helps
Hi, yes its a fibreglass plug that was made, in this case the male part outlasts the female part, so after every few thousand lifts this is brought back in to reproduce another, when its put back into stores a Gelcoat few layers of Glass is usally applied for protection, you can get mould protect, but its sometimes as easy the 'old fashioned' way :-). best rgds
***** Take the original part and make sure the surface is a perfect as you want the copies to be. After that you would do exactly the same steps in the video. Ie, clean, thoroughly wax, apply PVA (an alcohol release agent), tooling gel coat, and finally the fiberglass and other reinforcements. You want your newly created master mold to be as flawless and robust as possible.
They are showing how you make a mold off of a master mold. They can then use the new fiberglass mold to make fiberglass parts from. The title is correct.
Hi, if a gloss surface is required then don't use PVA , you can use a semi permanent release such as Marbocote Fastcote or Meguiars Velocity.Also a hard paste wax such as MG08, follow the guidelines on the product for a successful release, hope this helps.
@irfanfikri This is known as The Plug / Mastermould: To produce a mould you need a pattern or former commonly called a “plug” an exact replica of the finished item. Usually you will have to make the plug from scratch. The plug can be made from almost any material as long as it is made rigid, accurate, dimensionally stable and set on a solid foundation. this particular one is made of fibreglass which we made earlier from another plug made from wood which was primed as smoothed to a gloss finish
@richarddale76 Hi This is a PVA Release agent not to be confused with polyvinyl acetate emulsion which is a Bonding agent. PVA Release agent is a liquid solution of polyvinyl alcohol resin in a mixture of water. when dry this forms a thin skin which acts as a barrier to prevent the resin from bonding to the mould surface. Kind regards ecfibreglassuk
@richarddale76 The treatment of moulds is slightly different for epoxy moulding, some people will only use the PVA alone for epoxy mouldings. Unlike polyester which relies on a chemical bond, the epoxy relies on mechanical bonding so will sometimes still grip to any microscopic scratches on the mould surface even if waxed, PVA produces a good solid barrier between the Epoxy and Mould surface. We are open again on the 3rd of jan. Thanks again and All the best for 2011 Kind rgds ecfibreglassuk
This is a great tutorial on mould making but 3 to 1 resin ratio would produce a bit to much exothermic heat in the mould I have used 2 to 1 with great results.
Hi - my A Level class and I have enjoyed watching this video, it has been very good for explaining the process for their A Level studies. They would like to know what the end result actually was, can you help? They have some very wacky ideas!!!!!!Mr Wakefield
What a great video! and quality mould!. i dont think ill need to make my mould as strong, but if you will be using it alot, this is a great way of making it! thanks very much for youre video
Great video - I'm going to send people to this from now on rather than explaining the process. I noticed that you don't mention the need for release angles in the plug ? Additionally, a boss for an air fitting laid up in some part of the mold helps pop the part with an air compressor. If one is making enough copies to make a mold worthwhile, it definitely cuts the turnaround time and (especially on bigger parts) one person can pop the part.
Hi, Optimold relies on high exotherm for best results, bit of a nuisance sometimes depending on what your making, some other tooling systems recomend less Resin, thanks for the positive comment.
I have a question, give me some advice. I made 2 15 x 30 inch molds from some windows that go on the roof of a McLaren car. The customer removed them and gave them to me to build a mold to be able to make them in carbon fiber. This is the one. Procedure I used, tell me where the error is, first I cut the cardboard and glue it around the glass, leaving it 2 inches away, then I sealed all the gaps with plasticine, then I applied 3 coats of PVA mold releace, I let it dry very well, then I applied 3 coats of gealcoat. orange that I bought it at compositive envision, it was one coat for every 25 minutes of gaelcoat. Then, when it is tacky, I applied 6 sheets of glass fiber and 6 of polyester fiber glass resin. 15 minutes between each coat of resin for each sheet of fiberglass glass. I let it dry overnight. The next day I took it out into the sun so it could dry much better. My 2 molds got twisted, one of them got some cracks. I repaired them but both parts got twisted. Any recommendation you can give me, is my . first time making molds I spent 400 dollars of material amd i fee a little stressed I work alot with carbon fiber but is my first time making molds
Hi, if using a general purpose resin with fibreglass never apply more than 3 layers at any one time otherwise the laminate will get how as it cures due to an exothermic reaction in the resin. this heat buildup can then cause warping. also the UV exposure especially on a hot day can act as an accelerator speed up the reaction of the resin further and adding to heat build-up. you also need a good solid stiff former/plug (the part you are moulding from) if the former has any flex then it can't resist any shrinkage that your mould will go through as it cures allowing the mould to twist and distort freely pulling the former with it. however you can reduce shrinkage and add more layers at once with a tooling resin without the fear of shrinkage but you still need a good solid former to mould off. we cant supply to the US due to hazard restriction but look up a company called Fibre Glast and they may be able to help you further with tooling resin and more advice on their systems. hope this helps. kind regards .
Hi, you would need to find a resin from a Manufacturer such as Scott Bader that is suitable first, Crystic 491pa should be ok for the Water - Salts not to sure. Specification you would need to maybe seek advice from a local moulder in your area, take them a set of drawings with your inteded use, i hope this helps.
+Rasheed P Hi there, Release agents are applied before the gelcoat. For this mould we applied mould release wax TR104 hi temp. However your choice of release agent will also depend on what resins you are using and what material your mould or plug is made from.
All that I have understood from this video is that the title says it to be "MAKING A FIBREGLASS MOULD", against which the video shows how to make a product out of a mould, please correct me if I am wrong... thanks
HI This is a Mould being made from a fibreglass master mould, so this is 'MAKING A FIBREGLASS MOULD' the mould shown taken off will be use to make the product. There are many things you can make a fibreglass mould from even an original fibreglass part or master mould as shown in the video
When you don't use the PVA, what is the trick? Is it that the surface has to be perfect gloss without ANY porosity seen in the surface anywhere? I have some areas still which I could sand out some micro-craters.
Really inspiring video - you make it look way easier than it is. I found your video looking to troubleshoot a Modified Car Rear Spoiler that I'm working on - hybrid 3d printing and glass fibre layup. I'll be making moulds next! Thank you for sharing and feel free to check out what I'm up to and leave a comment.... I've subscribed!
Thanks, I've taken a look at your video on creating the spoiler and also subscribed. feel free to visit our website for our contact details, drop us an email or call and we'll be happy to help with advice once your ready. Kind regards Martin
Hey, Can You Give Me Some Help For Making Mould. I am beginner so thats why i dont know about material. How Can i make mould using glassfiber. what materials i borrow first
If I am to make a boat mould, can I make a plywood mould and then coat it with a couple layers of fiberglass and a layer of gelcoat? So that I could mould the hull straight out of this? It is a one off production, and would not need a master mould.
Hi, that would work, just make sure you've got a good smooth finish on the plywood, and sand down the fibreglass before you gelcoat for the best possible finish on the part. And plenty of release agent
Hi. Great video. I am an ex fiberglasser who only used gel coat in the past, sanded and sprayed it afterwards. Why is there so much nonsense now about gel coat never curing, or you need topcoat or flocoat instead. Has it all changed so much.
Mena Jakoub You could make the mold from wood (or foam), then cover it with a thin layer of fiberglass (do not use polyester resin on foam as it dissolves many types of foam) to strengthen and consolidate the mold then coat it with tooling gel coat.
@Savyoan Hi its not something i have done im afraid, i have made a mould from a Clay statue after covering it with Shellac first then applying PVA Release. You would only put wax in the Gelcoat (2%) if you were applying to the finished product for finish ect, not on the Female mould as this would inhibit adhesion of subsequent layers of reinforcement, hope this helps.
Can I know this place .. iam from Hyderabad We have a electrical work shop and we are thinking introduce sales also from coming season ..so that we need what was the exact process to make cooler body dies
Hi the product is called Optimold which is a tooling low shrinkage resin. As we are using a vinlyester gelcoat we apply our first layer of matting with an ISO resin 491pa which is a polyester that bonds to the vinylester based tooling gel. this is known as a tie coat or primer layer. its means that the layer against the gelcoat will bond to the vinylester gelcoat and also be compatible with the polyester tooling resin. it also ensures that the most important first layer is filly consolidated and cured to prevent disturbance from the subsequent layers. then we apply the rest of the matting with the optimold low shrinkage tooling resin. the advantage of using this system is that you have a good strong gelcoat and you can also even remove the mould the very next day with massively reduced risk of shrinkage and distortion that you would typically get from standard resins. this system is popular for automotive panel moulds and for moulding carbon infused parts that would usually be oven cured.
thank you for the response. would this process also help with smoothening a manually made mold that has some gaps and pits? Could you reccomend a process to make sure a mold (made of thermocol and pop on top) doesn't have air bubbles and to fill gaps?
Question please: how strong is fibreglass? I was thinking in making a car roof cargo box out of fibreglass but obviously, has got to be very strong. How strong one layer of fibreglass is? How many layers would I need? Thanks
Skilled craftsmen are a national treasure. Once we lose the manufacturing we lose centuries of knowledge to the point where we will never recover it.
Terrific video
I think the most stressful part of Mould Making is the music, it'll drive ya crazy before your done..
Then youre not focused enough :D
Haaa true🤣
Me too.... music is sick
I agree, the music is disturbing.
Almost had to exit out👎 music ruined it
There is an old saying "God is in the details"
Clearly the makers of this video understood the importance of the details in this considerable process. Well done lad's.
You mean devil is into detail😁
Very well structured, informative video... Instantly added to favorites and will be referenced several times for my upcoming first fiberglass project. Thanks for posting.
Me too
@GasserGlass Hi thank you for your reply, The methods we use in some of our videos are quite basic, the company producing these moulds do have more advanced methods but we try to keep the demonstrations to basic hand lay up without the need for spray or sometimes trimming equiptment. some of our customers buying our materials are first time user who may not have access to spray guns and pnumatic tools etc, hopefully we will get the time to demontrate other methods in future videos, Kind rgds
If you're NOT making production pieces....which need to be as close to PERFECT as possible.... you CAN skip the gel coat step. But this will give you a part thats not smooth as glass so you might have to do some finishing afterwards. Also keep in mind if the part you're molding has a deep well like the one in this video....you might have a difficult time removing it from the mold. Gel coat is very important when making repeatable molds and will reduce finishing time.
Enjoyed the video. Being unfamiliar with the measurements, and the products, I enjoyed the music, and the narration.
Simple and clear.... great stuff guys, thanks.
Hi , material at 4.30 is basically a filler paste with low shrinkage properties, and the other is Opyimold Tolling Resin, hope this helps.
Hi The Gelcoat is the durable, cosmetic and more often pigmented finish you would see on the part you are producing, it provides weathering and water resistant properties on the part surface, you could pore silicone in just as always try a small test piece first, hope this helps
Hi, yes its a fibreglass plug that was made, in this case the male part outlasts the female part, so after every few thousand lifts this is brought back in to reproduce another, when its put back into stores a Gelcoat few layers of Glass is usally applied for protection, you can get mould protect, but its sometimes as easy the 'old fashioned' way :-). best rgds
Sir i m Intrast to fiberglass work experience to 15 years plz reply me
You need a mould to make the mould...I'm after the initial mould, How do I make that? Anyway, great video!
That is a master mould taken from the initial mould that was made, this can be used time and time again to produce a new mould.
***** Take the original part and make sure the surface is a perfect as you want the copies to be. After that you would do exactly the same steps in the video. Ie, clean, thoroughly wax, apply PVA (an alcohol release agent), tooling gel coat, and finally the fiberglass and other reinforcements. You want your newly created master mold to be as flawless and robust as possible.
start with a plug. hehehe
You need a pre-inital mould to make the initial mould
i used cement to make a mould for a sink .. . many moons ago
Painting tooling gelcoat is still the quickest no fuss way for small moulds
nice video
Thanks for sharing knowledge sir. Huge respect for your tremendous effort.
They are showing how you make a mold off of a master mold. They can then use the new fiberglass mold to make fiberglass parts from.
The title is correct.
Thank you. I am interested
that whole process.......just for the mould!? >.<
Wow props to the people who actually use fiber glass for costuming! =/
very helpful video for my A level homework. thank you
Hi, if a gloss surface is required then don't use PVA , you can use a semi permanent release such as Marbocote Fastcote or Meguiars Velocity.Also a hard paste wax such as MG08, follow the guidelines on the product for a successful release, hope this helps.
Very nice give description of details
Hi yes it would, there is not a restriction on size, just different methods, best rgds
its very good video for fiberglass workers its so nice cos i have my owen fiberglass besnuss thanks
Great video - thanks!
Thank you :-)
@irfanfikri This is known as The Plug / Mastermould: To produce a mould you need a pattern or former commonly called a “plug” an exact replica of the finished item. Usually you will have to make the plug from scratch. The plug can be made from almost any material as long as it is made rigid, accurate, dimensionally stable and set on a solid foundation. this particular one is made of fibreglass which we made earlier from another plug made from wood which was primed as smoothed to a gloss finish
Hi yes it is actually better to leave wax to harden correctly overnight, if you need to put any more on the next day it will be ok, kind rgds
@richarddale76 Hi This is a PVA Release agent not to be confused with polyvinyl acetate emulsion which is a Bonding agent.
PVA Release agent is a liquid solution of polyvinyl alcohol resin in a mixture of water. when dry this forms a thin skin which acts as a barrier to prevent the resin from bonding to the mould surface.
Kind regards ecfibreglassuk
@richarddale76 The treatment of moulds is slightly different for epoxy moulding, some people will only use the PVA alone for epoxy mouldings. Unlike polyester which relies on a chemical bond, the epoxy relies on mechanical bonding so will sometimes still grip to any microscopic scratches on the mould surface even if waxed, PVA produces a good solid barrier between the Epoxy and Mould surface. We are open again on the 3rd of jan. Thanks again and All the best for 2011
Kind rgds ecfibreglassuk
Nothing wrong with brushing tooling gelcoat, spraying gelcoat is a real art NICE !!!
Love the music
you can get gelcoat pre colored in any color, or purchase tinting material to color as you need to.
This isn’t how to make a mold, this is how to use a mold.
This is copying a mould from a master mould. The former isn't that important :)
EastCoastFibreglass i disagree, the form is the most important part. I want to know how to make the form for the mold.
@@leonardoferlinghetti4933 Make the shape you need from MDF, foam, plasticine, clay, silicone...?
This is a great tutorial on mould making but 3 to 1 resin ratio would produce a bit to much exothermic heat in the mould I have used 2 to 1 with great results.
Very nice job
Niceee
Very nice job. Thanks
Fine finish,,,,great.
Hi - my A Level class and I have enjoyed watching this video, it has been very good for explaining the process for their A Level studies. They would like to know what the end result actually was, can you help? They have some very wacky ideas!!!!!!Mr Wakefield
Hi Mr Wakefield - These are moulds for life raft containers, some of which can be seen in the movie Interstellar - It's our claim to fame :-)
What a great video! and quality mould!. i dont think ill need to make my mould as strong, but if you will be using it alot, this is a great way of making it! thanks very much for youre video
Very nice video
Great video - I'm going to send people to this from now on rather than explaining the process.
I noticed that you don't mention the need for release angles in the plug ?
Additionally, a boss for an air fitting laid up in some part of the mold helps pop the part with an air compressor. If one is making enough copies to make a mold worthwhile, it definitely cuts the turnaround time and (especially on bigger parts) one person can pop the part.
Hi no it was not mentioned in this case a draft angle of 2mm was used on the sides of the part , thanks
Great Video
Hi, Optimold relies on high exotherm for best results, bit of a nuisance sometimes depending on what your making, some other tooling systems recomend less Resin, thanks for the positive comment.
Hi, there is nothing to substitute the Gelcoat im afraid! Car wax is a release ageant, you need the Gelcoat for the mould surface.hope this helps
Hi, its really best to fully assure the coating is at adequate thickness throughout, you can locally re-apply to the effected area, hope this helps.
1st layer with tissue mat will much better
Good job
how to make that mould...and whats the degree of heat for melting and how it looks.. This video is very informative.nice
@Eggtastic It is a mould they made it from the plug, the product will be made from the mould not the plug.
Nice
démonstration pédagogique.
👌👌👌👌beautiful
I have a question, give me some advice. I made 2 15 x 30 inch molds from some windows that go on the roof of a McLaren car. The customer removed them and gave them to me to build a mold to be able to make them in carbon fiber. This is the one. Procedure I used, tell me where the error is, first I cut the cardboard and glue it around the glass, leaving it 2 inches away, then I sealed all the gaps with plasticine, then I applied 3 coats of PVA mold releace, I let it dry very well, then I applied 3 coats of gealcoat. orange that I bought it at compositive envision, it was one coat for every 25 minutes of gaelcoat. Then, when it is tacky, I applied 6 sheets of glass fiber and 6 of polyester fiber glass resin. 15 minutes between each coat of resin for each sheet of fiberglass glass. I let it dry overnight. The next day I took it out into the sun so it could dry much better. My 2 molds got twisted, one of them got some cracks. I repaired them but both parts got twisted. Any recommendation you can give me, is my . first time making molds I spent 400 dollars of material amd i fee a little stressed I work alot with carbon fiber but is my first time making molds
Hi, if using a general purpose resin with fibreglass never apply more than 3 layers at any one time otherwise the laminate will get how as it cures due to an exothermic reaction in the resin. this heat buildup can then cause warping. also the UV exposure especially on a hot day can act as an accelerator speed up the reaction of the resin further and adding to heat build-up. you also need a good solid stiff former/plug (the part you are moulding from) if the former has any flex then it can't resist any shrinkage that your mould will go through as it cures allowing the mould to twist and distort freely pulling the former with it. however you can reduce shrinkage and add more layers at once with a tooling resin without the fear of shrinkage but you still need a good solid former to mould off. we cant supply to the US due to hazard restriction but look up a company called Fibre Glast and they may be able to help you further with tooling resin and more advice on their systems. hope this helps. kind regards .
Hi, you would need to find a resin from a Manufacturer such as Scott Bader that is suitable first, Crystic 491pa should be ok for the Water - Salts not to sure. Specification you would need to maybe seek advice from a local moulder in your area, take them a set of drawings with your inteded use, i hope this helps.
good job
Chanting specialists please post your version of Producing goods
What kind of materials using before jell coat?
+Rasheed P Hi there, Release agents are applied before the gelcoat. For this mould we applied mould release wax TR104 hi temp. However your choice of release agent will also depend on what resins you are using and what material your mould or plug is made from.
what is the distance of each layer, and how many layers of gelcoat, resin, fiber and the last material ....?
UP
UP
@LovemeAquarius Hi, after the resin is catalyzed add talc until you can just pour, approx a 2:1 resin talc does this job, best rgds
Can this method be used to create a durable kitchen sink?
Thanks for the video
All that I have understood from this video is that the title says it to be "MAKING A FIBREGLASS MOULD", against which the video shows how to make a product out of a mould, please correct me if I am wrong... thanks
HI This is a Mould being made from a fibreglass master mould, so this is 'MAKING A FIBREGLASS MOULD' the mould shown taken off will be use to make the product.
There are many things you can make a fibreglass mould from even an original fibreglass part or master mould as shown in the video
When you don't use the PVA, what is the trick? Is it that the surface has to be perfect gloss without ANY porosity seen in the surface anywhere? I have some areas still which I could sand out some micro-craters.
how much would a piece like that cost in materials?
Really inspiring video - you make it look way easier than it is. I found your video looking to troubleshoot a Modified Car Rear Spoiler that I'm working on - hybrid 3d printing and glass fibre layup. I'll be making moulds next! Thank you for sharing and feel free to check out what I'm up to and leave a comment.... I've subscribed!
Thanks, I've taken a look at your video on creating the spoiler and also subscribed. feel free to visit our website for our contact details, drop us an email or call and we'll be happy to help with advice once your ready. Kind regards Martin
what if ,dont sell the gel coat in my country what im gonna do? to make a professional mold?
Hi
I have a few questions.
Before painting gelcoat .
How many wax to original part ?
Thanksyou very much
Its amazing a super nice coooool project
Hey, Can You Give Me Some Help For Making Mould. I am beginner so thats why i dont know about material. How Can i make mould using glassfiber. what materials i borrow first
How does polyester harm the human body?
can i use vinyl ester as a resin while second layup of chopped strand mat
we would only recommend using the materials mentioned for this application. if using a vinylester gelcoat then you can use vinyl ester resin.
Please tell, whats the story of them big puppys .....
but how do we make the "red thing" first?
If I am to make a boat mould, can I make a plywood mould and then coat it with a couple layers of fiberglass and a layer of gelcoat?
So that I could mould the hull straight out of this? It is a one off production, and would not need a master mould.
Hi, that would work, just make sure you've got a good smooth finish on the plywood, and sand down the fibreglass before you gelcoat for the best possible finish on the part. And plenty of release agent
thnk you for your time to answer ,yes that helped
Very great... But.. How do you trim what's over the mould?
Thank you..
Hi, same way you trim it to fit. The edges can be sanded down to get rid of the rough bits too
I enjoy thank u
Hi. Great video. I am an ex fiberglasser who only used gel coat in the past, sanded and sprayed it afterwards. Why is there so much nonsense now about gel coat never curing, or you need topcoat or flocoat instead. Has it all changed so much.
can i make wood mould for fiber to make cover for machine??????
Mena Jakoub You could make the mold from wood (or foam), then cover it with a thin layer of fiberglass (do not use polyester resin on foam as it dissolves many types of foam) to strengthen and consolidate the mold then coat it with tooling gel coat.
What is the purpose of the gel coat? Can you cast silicone in a mold like that?
sometimes a certain kind of yellowish powder is added to the resin could you tell us what it is?
@Savyoan Hi its not something i have done im afraid, i have made a mould from a Clay statue after covering it with Shellac first then applying PVA Release.
You would only put wax in the Gelcoat (2%) if you were applying to the finished product for finish ect, not on the Female mould as this would inhibit adhesion of subsequent layers of reinforcement, hope this helps.
@mindfreak001009
Hi you would need a compressor to spray gelcoat, or without simply brush apply,rgds
Hi depends where you are they are companies that can import, hope this helps best rgds
Can I know this place .. iam from Hyderabad
We have a electrical work shop and we are thinking introduce sales also from coming season ..so that we need what was the exact process to make cooler body dies
Hello
I have so important question can I used fiberglass mould for to make Carbon fiber parts? please respond me very soon,Thank you so much
peter John I guess it is depended on the mold applications
Would this work for something the size of a car?
Hi, we used 10 waxes for taking mould from plug and also taking part from mould, best rgds
hi , do we can use other kind of material to put a color instead of gelcoat, is it possible to use an enamel paint ?
@ecfibreglassuk ................ OHOKAY... Understood..... Keep up the good work and sorry for any confusion.
When waxing the mould, is it ok to leave it over night say if you've only achieved 6-7 layers?
Same applies to the former?
why did you put the main body of the mould (heard octa mould) on top of the chopped fibre and then add another layer of chopped fibre?
Hi the product is called Optimold which is a tooling low shrinkage resin. As we are using a vinlyester gelcoat we apply our first layer of matting with an ISO resin 491pa which is a polyester that bonds to the vinylester based tooling gel. this is known as a tie coat or primer layer. its means that the layer against the gelcoat will bond to the vinylester gelcoat and also be compatible with the polyester tooling resin. it also ensures that the most important first layer is filly consolidated and cured to prevent disturbance from the subsequent layers. then we apply the rest of the matting with the optimold low shrinkage tooling resin. the advantage of using this system is that you have a good strong gelcoat and you can also even remove the mould the very next day with massively reduced risk of shrinkage and distortion that you would typically get from standard resins. this system is popular for automotive panel moulds and for moulding carbon infused parts that would usually be oven cured.
thank you for the response. would this process also help with smoothening a manually made mold that has some gaps and pits? Could you reccomend a process to make sure a mold (made of thermocol and pop on top) doesn't have air bubbles and to fill gaps?
@@AG-cx1ug Hi Unfortunately I am not familiar with thermocol and pop on top or using it as a moulding media ?
Why you clean the wax ?
What is the mixing ratio of TALC and RESIN ??
Question please: how strong is fibreglass? I was thinking in making a car roof cargo box out of fibreglass but obviously, has got to be very strong. How strong one layer of fibreglass is? How many layers would I need? Thanks
hello .... thanks 4 the vid
i want to ask about the name of material you poured at 4:30 and material that coat it at 5:00
plz .... write its name
how much did this size mould cost to make all together?
8-12 coats of carnuba based wax? so, rub on, polish off 8-12 times? or am i missing something?
Rub on, lightly buff off, allow to "set" between coats
votre travail est excellent, mais comment faire pour avoir aussi les produit qui vous permet a fabriquer j'aimerai passer la commende
Hi, usually 2-3 hours @ room temp of approximately 18-20 deg C.
well i mean what can i use instead of the gel coat, i thought car wax was enough