I am 55 years old have owned and maintained 17 or 18. Boats through out my life power and sail wood and fiberglass i really enjoy your videos. As i never had any. Formal lessons. On fiberglassing i laugh because my very first boat i bough at 17 years old needed a new floor and the guy i bought it from gave me the plywood and glass cloth he had bought to do the job i had more resin on my sneakers and me than i got on the boat i made a career in Woodworking for over 20 years and i did get better at fiberglassing and using the West Epoxy system thankfully but all your videos and tips teach me something every time i watch my exwife and our daughter are school teachers and i became a certified instructor. In some sports that actually follow teaching curriculum lessons You. Have that personality. And toner of voice that make you have that professional style of teaching its obviious you have done. What you are teaching and i think thats why i like your channel unfortunately i suffered a Traumatic Brain Injury a few years ago that resulted in not being able to. Stay at my position of many years. And took a toll on me financially so money is way too tight other wise i would Paterson and send your channel as much as i could at the moment i have to. Pay for medical expenses and much needed medications to keep me alive
Blessings on you. I hope you’re doing well and hanging in there. That is a very difficult injury but I’ve seen at least one friend overcome the many challenges. May God be with you and provide all that you need my friend!
People that thumbs down this tutorial know nothing about boats, want nothing to do with boats, fully couldn't care less about fiberglass work (or doing it right) and have no inclination at all to imagine how many projects can be done with this knowledge. I am a certified USN and USCG ship engineer. I literally fought wars on wooden minesweepers with teak decks that couldn't use any metal except brass (excluding the coke machine). This was done right, used every proper principle, and was demonstrated by a true artisan, an uncommon find in this day and age. I grew up in a boatyard. Sharing these skills with the masses is both invaluable, and a contribution to humanity that shall last for the ages. Well, as long as we have tech! Thanks! Having rebuilt several sailboats from the keel up, I would have wished these were available 20 years ago. Now is good, too!
Man-in-the-clouds Than you are the right person to ask.... I have seen many people use resin and fine sawdust to make the peanut butter, is there any difference in the end result to what he is doing using resin, silica, and fiberglass bits?
Brother, so here we are 32 months past when you posted this. I have a 13 Gheenoe that I want to put a raised front deck with hatch on. I was sort of sorry I got it instead of finding one like I really wanted, but it was a steal, so I stole it. Now, I am sure that as a lifelong woodworker, I have the skills to make a nice front deck with storage. It's channels like yours that make me think I can do anything. You're doing Gods work, brother.
I don't know anything about boats or boat lingo, but this video was super helpful for figuring out how to strengthen a lightweight diy plywood truck camper
Andy, great videos. You are a wealth of knowledge. If I might add 2 things I have learned after building over 100 boats with wood cores, stringers, and transoms, I always treated my fir plywood with resin and 50% styrene. We did this in the evening before quitting time. We let this cure overnight. The styrene added teeth to the resin, and then added mat the next day. Also, wherever we had a sharp corners, like stringers, transoms, and chines or feature stripes, we added 7 or 8 uncut single strand roving to eliminate sharp bends. My 2 cents. Great job!
I've been thinking of building a console for my little S10 pickup. Haven't decided on materials yet or the design but this gives me some ideas. Thanks for showing this I'll be watching again.
When I was building my boat in'74 I used Styrene Monomer to thin the polyester resin to prime the plywood before laying up glass tabbing on bulkheads and also for sheathing the decks. Worked extremely well. Good useful tutorial, could almost smell the resin again!!
just bought a roller tool. you need to talk about your tools so we can buy them... thank you ... and Another Great VIDEO.. Thx... some of us are just learning to do glass work.. and it has help me a lot to do repair on many things like my lawn mower firber glass grass catcher, wow i repaired it and save $150 ON buying a new bag... so working on my boat doing glass work now thank you so much... going to glass my Harley faring next.
Margaret Bailey-Curtis what are you doing to get in it? I'm looking to get more info on how to build and UA-cam is my starting point. I'm more interested in coordinating everything for a final product to be sold but where are the people like in this video
your the man!! thankyou for taking your time and speaking fluently and chronologically. very easy to understand and in no time anyone can be a master glasser by watching your tutorials! Namaste from Iowa
Well done. I deal with auto racing and some things can be done different. On your 90 degree fillets.. Take a small piece of cove molding and glass that into the 90 degree section. 3/8" works well for this. The molding is very dry and will take in a large amount of resin. Super soak, then glass over that area. . The cove molding acts like a small gusset and it will give you a true straight edge to work from. Enjoy
I know this is old .. but a great refresher. Probably the smartest thing you said at 10:10 "...now I just need to stop screwing with it..." How many times I took a project from "perfectly fine" to "barely adequate" by just "screwing with it" for far longer than I should have :) .. good stuff.
As a fibreglass TAFE teacher in Australia with over 50 years working with both fibreglass and plywood. I think you telling people that putting a coat of resin on first is absolutely crucial. However, the first coat should be made with an additional 1/2 per cent accelerator and thinned with styrene 5%. This will ensure the resin properly cures but also the extra accelerator can be used to combat the naptha in the plywood which is a polyester retardant. The thinner resin will also soak into the wood fibres better. Without the speedy curing, it is possible for the resin to not fully cure. especially in cheaper forms of plywood. Its not always necessary but its a useful trick to ensure a good key when applying the first layers of glass and resin. There are a LOT of glassed over wooden boats which have had their glass completely delaminate because that first glass/plywood bond has not fully cured.
You’ve done it perfect I’ve been in the industry over 25 yrs the only thing you could do different is to thin your resin with acetone it speeds up the absorption into the ply penetrates deeper . I’ve done test with this method and the results were astonishing. Ply that’s been in capsulated with this method with 2onz Matt 2 layers and exposed to the elements lasted up to 15 yrs before signs of delaminating and not much of it.
Old video but thanks its a big help it answered some questions and concerns im glassing a big custom door speaker enclosure thats ply rear and sides with glass front.
Shine is well known in Florida for his boat building knowledge, thanks Shine! Currently working on my 4th boat refurb-restored project, will be watching more of these glass videos. Kevin, the BWP
this video is an object lesson in how to pass on skills and knowledge in very clear and understandable manner, I do not build boats or even use galls fibre and stumbled across this more by accident however you held my attention and interest throughout, well done sir an excellent presentation.
Thanks a lot ! Could have used this video in 2008! 🤪. But you are absolutely right. I built a 12’ kayak/canoe kinda hybrid. Very fast and stable. I wasn’t sure how to make the glass stay while I was putting the fiberglass resin on. Being a contractor, I laid out the glass and used a slap hammer/stapler to tack it in place, then I spread the resin on. After a few years it began to delaminate. Been messing with it, I’ll probably just finish getting it all off and just epoxy it. Awesome video. I am wanting to build a house boat soon, definitely will be revisiting this. 👍👍👍👍
I've been working in the shop for a while to make a wooden mold that will be sealed, sanded and have fairing compound placed on it so it can be used for a mold to create 2 pieces that will become a motorcycle saddle bag. Your clear description of materials used as well as the tips along the way have been very helpful. Thank you.
When I built my boat back in the 1980's all the books of the time said that you had to leave a 1/2 inch gap between the hull and bulkhead to avoid making a hard edge on the hull that would cause stress points. Obviously over the years the materials and thinking has changed. Nice video, thanks.
Tru dat. Also the vinyl resin. Vinylester resin doesn't stick to wood very well. Yeah... it's cheaper and way easier to work with, but if you want a strong boat, you need to use epoxy resin with compatible glass. Hollywood makes wood cored boats they're going to blow up with vinylester resin because they don't have to last.
Great video as always. You do the best how to vids on any subject that I have seen on YT. I sold my fiberglass boat and bought an aluminum one. I wish there was a channel as good as yours dealing with aluminum!
I am a grp roof installer,we have used talc with polystyrene resin to make a peanut butter/filling paste to fill in cracks and dips on an old surface. Just a thought.
Try making peanut butter with calcium carbonate as the powder. Good stuff and better than the light weight fillers. Another problem that seems to be common is air bubbles in gel coat. I finally figured out what causes them. I noticed that bubbles were awful when my box fan was running. Actually, it was the paste wax that when heated by the catalized gel coat, released the styrene as a gas! Now, I'm a pva only fan.
I love how when thinking for an amount of time, you always act like you're really thinking hard about how much time is needed, but then always answer with 30 minutes... half hour.... Awesome videos though. thanks for putting all this great content together. Really helping me with my boat projects.
My friend and I will be redoing my stringer in a couple of days , I’m happy to see this video as I am inexperienced with glassing , but my buddy has been doing this kind of work for years . Your video really helps me understand what we will be doing . Cheers
Great video's . . . Terrific info. Andy, one tip from a woodworker to another. Add a layer of hardboard (shiny side up, I used contact cement) to your assembly table, and put a coat of paste wax on it. Literally everything will slide around like it's on glass. Nothing sticks to it, glue, varnish etc. If your table saw is bench height, you could round the edges, or lower by 1/4". I got this great tip from a bookbinder company that used the same technique to slide book coverings around before they were folded over and bound. Works awesome.
+Ron Gibson that is a great idea and something I'm going to do once I build a dedicated out feed table, but for the time being this table is an out feed, assembly, and glassing table that sees a lot f abuse :-/.. I typically replace the top skin every coule months :-). Right now it's overdue!
Did a rotten stringer job rebuild and a rotted transom job fill in. All worked out great using similar techniques ! But what a messy job it was . Stuck on bottoms of shoes and pants. Wear old disposable clothes and shoes for sure and alot of gloves . Also only mix what is needed . Did a couple of hot mixes and must work fast .
Dangar Marine wow to seeing you here buddy!! I follow your channel and watch all your videos.👍👍 take care down there in Australia. I would love a T-shirt to wear here in South Alabama for you.
I rebuilt a 89’ evinrude xp150 last year. I have to say I learned EVERYTHING from Dangar Marines videos!!! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. The motor is running strong, unfortunately now I’m rebuilding the stringers and deck on my Stratos. Now I can thank both of you for the lessons for a total refurbished vessel🤙🏼
I looked through the comments, didn't see my question, that doesn't mean you haven't answered it a hundred times, however, is there a product for the filled, that you let set up before the first layer of glass? I LOVE your demonstration about the fin roller helping with the radius!!! THAN YOU
Good video. I prefer sanding with 120 or 240 to give it some tooth. Soak with epoxy as you suggested. Fillet with chop fibers and wood flour or cabosil. Lay up 3 to 6 layers of 6 or 9 oz biax tape alternating by an inch. Cap it all with 1708 all wet-on-wet with epoxy. Super strong finished product. Watch the heat, remove the screws.
Great video on fibreglass over wood - very easy to follow and understand. If you were to attach a piece of marine plywood to a fibreglass hull, would you use the same technique? I assume you could attach/glue the ply to the hull with epoxy prior to laying the glass over it as you demonstrated. Thanks for sharing your advice a professional knowledge. Shaydon.
i have enjoyed watching your videos and i thank you , i have question for you i am building a van and want to use ply for the roof as i feel i will be able to get a good seal on the ends as the roof will be curved , i intend to coat the ply on both sides before fixing and cloth over the top and paint when dry i will be using 6 mm marine ply , can you see any problems it is basically the same application as shown here in this video , thank you for you answer .
I was shown to prime plywood with 50% acetone/50%resin with a LOT of catalyst.Mix is absorbed into ply more quickly and further ,then goes off quick with extra catalyst
Hey Andy! Great show as always! I'm from germany and following you from the beginning! One question: I want to add strength to the bulkheads (varnished marine-plywood) in my 35ft sailboat by coating them with fiberglas, would you remove the old varnish, or is it possible to lay the glas on top the varnished wood? Thanks a lot, Sven
A "trick" with bringing woven glass cloth over corners is to lay it on a diagonal to the corner. The effective radius of the glass strands is much larger so it lays easier on the corner.
This technique is used in covering aircraft which use dacron cloth tape on curved or rounded surfaces, refered to as "biased tape" which is cut at a 45 degree angle to permit the fabric to be pulled into position as you glue it down onto the wing tip or the outline of the rudder or stabilizers.
Question - for making the joint fillets why would you not use Bondo, which is a polyester body putty used in auto dent repair. It is the consistency of something like Spackle but heavier. It's compatible with fiberglass polyester laminates, is already mixed into a thick paste and just requires catalyst, which comes with the bondo as a kit. You can make a good sized fillet, maybe like 3/4 inch or more, with it. It works fine with radiusing tools.
Great video , I have a question with regard to fibre glassing in general, If the project is quite large and may not be completed in one day , What preparations/precautions should one take so as to not inadvertently create a weak area where both days work join ?
I have the same question. And also is it bad to stop for the day and come in the next day and continue or do you need to do it while everything still tacky or wet? That was never explained and I see he’s never answered your question but that is a big reality as most boats are pretty big comparison to the little piece he did. So that needs to be addressed. Thanks and appreciate the video it’s good just needs to be a little bit more thorough for us beginners 😁
Hello From Ireland.can I ask you what are you using to clean your tools. And do you discard of waste generally in the household waste bin. Thanks Mark.
I really appreciate this detailed educational look at fiberglass. I'm trying to replace a transom and I wasn't sure how the glass was going to go around the 90° top.
I was taught by a old timer when coating plywood first to use 50/50 resin/acetone. We have always done this and it sucks right into the wood. We're we misinformed? Any time we put a hole for a bilge or plug.
+Team Frankenmerc It mostly depends how thin the resin is to begin with. The resin I get is pretty thin already so I don't usually have a need to thin it, but if / when I do I prefer to use styrene. Acetone would work as well when used in small amounts, but styrene is a solvent that's already mixed into the resin from the manufacturer so that's what I stick with :-)
Fantastic video thanks for showing people the proper process on fiberglass wood I've had quite a few jods come to me and all becouse people think they know what there doing ...
i havn't seen too many of your videos (yet) but I am indeed aware of them and was under the initial impression that you are a big user of West System Epoxy resin, and thus, I was curious what you were using for resin in this video? im assuming, due to the use of chopped strand mat, It must be polyester resin of some sort,, which do you prefer (as in Brand of polyster) and when exactly do you prefer to choose polyester instead of epoxy and vice versa? thanks
@Terry Marsh You are making good points. It’s been decades ago when I studied and used resins and glass. Things have changed was well as materials. I would like to see a tutorial on the glass to resin ratio, glass strand orientation regarding tensile forces, and information about material (the skin) flexibility.
Having used fibreglass for years the most important step this guy has not told you is to round off the sharp, square external edges of the plywood otherwise the glass matting will bubble off in these areas. He started with square edges then when we cut back he’d rounded them off.
@@boatworkstoday DO NOT USE TALCUM POWDER. (and that's the correct spelling). If the resin isn't toxic enough (some have extreme allergic reactions to epoxy, and the solvent in polyester resins will make you sick too) I'll advise that in the mineral world, talcum is closely associated with asbestiform materials. Commercial "Talcum Powder" frequently contains enough asbestos to make you sick. It might take 15 years, but you can get mesothelioma from a single exposure (from a formerly EPA-registered Asbestos Project Designer). ALSO... anyone working with polyester resin should be wearing a respirator with appropriate (activated charcoal) filters. I'll be charitable and guess this demonstration was done with epoxy resin.
With this video I’ve started to watch you channel, here I leave a comment to say thank you for all the videos you done it did help me learn a lot, which I’m going to use now that we started to build our catamaran!
+Edvin Gomer no, providing that you're using laminating resin. It just makes it easier when the resin in still soft to make it conform. If it sets up, you'll just need to sand to a smooth profile to avoid irregularities in th surface which otherwise result in air voids.
+Thomas Russell Not a problem! I can see that ;-) I used their 406 filler rather than cabosil as it's what I had in the shop. Both are a type of silica but the 406 is much more fine.. Thanks for following up!!
Hi nice demonstration. Can you put a link to the mat fiber glass you use(roll you have ). The type that is easy to tear/rip by hand. I'm new to this and don't want to buy the wrong type. Thanks
Pretty much required. Polyester resin doesn't reliably bond to wood. Some people have stapled the first layer or two of cloth to the wood after laying up, then laying more cloth on that. Seems to work on Shrimp boats in the Gulf.
Anywhere you want to. It's not as common as dirt, but close. No you do not sand after each layer, but you do roll it down compact with the prior layer and make sure there's just enough epoxy to saturate it, no air between, but not standing puddles of epoxy either unless you're coming back right away with the next layer and that'll take up the excess.
@@stinkycheese804 if your resin has a wax surfacing agent then you do want to sand between each layer, it's also a good idea because any little piece of sticking up won't allow the next layer to lay down smoothly
Sanding between layers depends on the application - IMO. If it's a hull application on the bottom of a ply skiff, I don't sand. Some epoxies don't emit an amine blush, an oily film as it cures. If yours has that, you need to wash it with acetone and possibly light sand before the next layer. If no blush, I just light sand to make sure nothing has risen that will hold the next layer above the last one. It also makes the final sanding easier because you've already knocked down the bigger stuff. If the application is just interior structure with no concern about looks, I just wash with the acetone and quickly sand down just the lumpy stuff. If your brand of epoxy does not blush, just sand as you see fit.
@@toddlehman928 You should not use waxed resins for layups. I only use them for a final brush coat if it is not going to be gel coated and left as a raw glass surface.
Thanks for the videos I am rebuilding a boat stringers and transom when using a laminating resin and finish so I have to use a wax for it to cure something else or just leave it alone?
+1980andyjt you cans either use a wax mixed with the last coat of resin, or go over the tacked surface with PVA (poly vinyl alcohol). Either will work!
Hello thanks so much foll the all your videos.They are clear informative and are enjoyable to watch.My cabin roof was rotten so i have removed the inner layer of the fiberglass and the rotten wood.My plan was to epoxy some 10mm ply to the outer skin and then fiberglass over it.If i was to seal the ply wood with resin first would i still be able to bend it upwards to match the curved profile of the roof?I am concerned priming it this way would make it rigid.Thanks and look forward to more videos.
Though your means of breaking up the fiberglass plys into segments for application purposes may be good enough for boat work. If you want the maximum strength possible, it is best to apply each fiberglass ply as a continuos singe sheet. I know you don't want to here this and I am not trying to discredit your work, but look at it from a welding point of view. The more joint you have the weaker the overall structure will be. So, if you are building a racing structure and ever pound and a maximum strength is required, then your method can not be used. That being said, sometimes several fiberglass plys per layer are good enough and maybe the only way to assemble the structure do to space constrictions or complexities. Also, always remember to wear your PPE (Personal Protective equipment) it is not worth hurting your eye or your lungs with glass which you will pay for when you get older! You will! Thanks for the video I really learned a lot today and see how repairs are actually done! Keep up the good work.
This post is a bit late, but before I apply resin to plywood, I perforate the ply surface with a punch made of a bundle of finishing nails approx 2 X 2 square. The punch is made by pouring resin and hardener mix about half full in a metal pipe cap, then seat the bundle of nails with the heads down in the cap and resin. When hard, I level and sharpen the points with a grinder. It is now ready to use as a punch. With a hammer tap lightly and move the punch around to cover all the area of ply. Just dimple all of the surface no more than 1/16 deep. Then with a corner of a chisel, scratch the surface at random and diagonally.(Resist the urge to sand the rough surface when done.) It is now ready for resin application and cloth/mat application and will help the bonding.
Very interesting, You are making an anchor pattern for the resin. In coating steel pipe with Fusion bonded poxy, an anchor pattern is very important for a good bond.
Why bother? Prewet your area then lay your glass where it needs to go, apply more resin if needed and roll out. If you have excess resin you can soak it up with a brush or better yet a paint nap roller
uncletomsrice I used landscape fabric when I water proofed my new shower, I used redguard, worked good and fully wetted out. I think it was non-woven fabric and soft to the touch, not scratchy. It layed up nice and tight into the corners with no spring-back
Im wondering how long I can let the first coat of polyester resin set before I add chop strand mat? Can the prime coat of resin set for a week? Two weeks maybe? Would I have to sand it before adding my mat after that long?
My only critique is that you used more resin than necessary. Using more resin than needed is weaker than using just enough. Too much resin is the most common mistake made when working with fiberglass. I would have emphasized that using smaller pieces of mat is actually stronger than a large single piece due to the overlap. It also gives a lot of breathing room in regards to pot life when working on the project. I always precut all my glass before mixing. That reduces the time between layers which results in a stronger bond. The key to proper lay up is prepare, prep, and lots of patience
This is a very informative and useful video. I noticed that you are using Baltic Birch plywood instead of marine plywood. Is Baltic Birch plywood better than the standard marine plywood for boat repair and construction?
If by using marine plywood you are refering to true bs1088 then that is a grading system based on the quality/thickness of the plys and the veneer faces and wbp glue/resin. The grading can be achieved by many timbers... so although this may be marine suitable timber the sheets may not be upto bs1088 grade the choice ofwhich is usually down to price point
I've learned allot from this! Do you have any plans to demonstrate foam core laminating for like bulk heads, decking, stringers, ect? would love to see your expertise when it comes to laminating schedule w/ strength vs cosmetic and What type of core for each. keep posting vids! very informative and love your work!
Here's an old school trick just before you wet up the wood and put down some chop use a misting spray bottle to mist on some acetone to the wood do not saturate just a mist then before it evaporates hit it quick with resin it will bit into the wood harder and give a superior bond remember dont saturate or it will thin out the resin to much 👍
Building a box for kayak trailer. Was going to frame with 2x3 use exterior plywood then build and resin the box paint. Any suggestions on places I should glass and what type resin. Thank you
the real reason for using Chop Strand is.........chop strand is has Multi Directional strength, mat has one directional strength, so for laying up use chop for final smooth finish use mat, then finish with gel coat, and never glas over a sharp corner/edge always "round off" the corner/edge
Helps me a lot to finish my Volkswagen Westfalia High Roof on a Toyota HZJ75... I had to make it sorter and to build a part made of plywood clovered with fiberglass. Thank you!!!
Do not touch any surface you're about to glass/laminate/fiberglass with your barehands. The body oils create fisheyes. Use acetone to clean such prior to laminating.
My dad built and raced boats in the 1950's and 1960's. My dad was a master at applying fiberglass over plywood. He built custom boats for races like the "Salton Sea 500" and the annual race between Long Beach and Santa Catalina. He built boats for people like Roy Rogers.
Will polyester resin unbond eventually from an oldglass hull when replacing stringers . Another site stated to only useing epoxy . But once you use epoxy you cant use polyresin to finish the stringer job. HELP please. Thanks.
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I am 55 years old have owned and maintained 17 or 18. Boats through out my life power and sail wood and fiberglass i really enjoy your videos. As i never had any. Formal lessons. On fiberglassing i laugh because my very first boat i bough at 17 years old needed a new floor and the guy i bought it from gave me the plywood and glass cloth he had bought to do the job i had more resin on my sneakers and me than i got on the boat i made a career in Woodworking for over 20 years and i did get better at fiberglassing and using the West Epoxy system thankfully but all your videos and tips teach me something every time i watch my exwife and our daughter are school teachers and i became a certified instructor. In some sports that actually follow teaching curriculum lessons You. Have that personality. And toner of voice that make you have that professional style of teaching its obviious you have done. What you are teaching and i think thats why i like your channel unfortunately i suffered a Traumatic Brain Injury a few years ago that resulted in not being able to. Stay at my position of many years. And took a toll on me financially so money is way too tight other wise i would Paterson and send your channel as much as i could at the moment i have to. Pay for medical expenses and much needed medications to keep me alive
Blessings on you. I hope you’re doing well and hanging in there. That is a very difficult injury but I’ve seen at least one friend overcome the many challenges. May God be with you and provide all that you need my friend!
People that thumbs down this tutorial know nothing about boats, want nothing to do with boats, fully couldn't care less about fiberglass work (or doing it right) and have no inclination at all to imagine how many projects can be done with this knowledge. I am a certified USN and USCG ship engineer. I literally fought wars on wooden minesweepers with teak decks that couldn't use any metal except brass (excluding the coke machine). This was done right, used every proper principle, and was demonstrated by a true artisan, an uncommon find in this day and age. I grew up in a boatyard. Sharing these skills with the masses is both invaluable, and a contribution to humanity that shall last for the ages. Well, as long as we have tech! Thanks! Having rebuilt several sailboats from the keel up, I would have wished these were available 20 years ago. Now is good, too!
I’m a retired Coastie engineer 🙂
I made a camper out of plywood. I learned more from this one tutorial and recommend it frequently.
Good job ,same process on commercial work boats that I was taught in the early 80's
Former Coastie snipe. Loved working fibreglass with the dickies, what a smell though!
Man-in-the-clouds
Than you are the right person to ask....
I have seen many people use resin and fine sawdust to make the peanut butter, is there any difference in the end result to what he is doing using resin, silica, and fiberglass bits?
Brother, so here we are 32 months past when you posted this. I have a 13 Gheenoe that I want to put a raised front deck with hatch on. I was sort of sorry I got it instead of finding one like I really wanted, but it was a steal, so I stole it. Now, I am sure that as a lifelong woodworker, I have the skills to make a nice front deck with storage. It's channels like yours that make me think I can do anything. You're doing Gods work, brother.
I don't know anything about boats or boat lingo, but this video was super helpful for figuring out how to strengthen a lightweight diy plywood truck camper
Andy, great videos. You are a wealth of knowledge. If I might add 2 things I have learned after building over 100 boats with wood cores, stringers, and transoms, I always treated my fir plywood with resin and 50% styrene. We did this in the evening before quitting time. We let this cure overnight. The styrene added teeth to the resin, and then added mat the next day. Also, wherever we had a sharp corners, like stringers, transoms, and chines or feature stripes, we added 7 or 8 uncut single strand roving to eliminate sharp bends. My 2 cents. Great job!
I've been thinking of building a console for my little S10 pickup. Haven't decided on materials yet or the design but this gives me some ideas. Thanks for showing this I'll be watching again.
When I was building my boat in'74 I used Styrene Monomer to thin the polyester resin to prime the plywood before laying up glass tabbing on bulkheads and also for sheathing the decks. Worked extremely well. Good useful tutorial, could almost smell the resin again!!
That's what I was told also.
Was the whole process done whilst wet /tacky or could you let it dry and do some layers the following day ?
just bought a roller tool. you need to talk about your tools so we can buy them... thank you ... and Another Great VIDEO.. Thx... some of us are just learning to do glass work.. and it has help me a lot to do repair on many things like my lawn mower firber glass grass catcher, wow i repaired it and save $150 ON buying a new bag... so working on my boat doing glass work now thank you so much... going to glass my Harley faring next.
My grandfather built fiberglass boats in the seventies. Now I am getting into it 😊 Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Margaret Bailey-Curtis what are you doing to get in it? I'm looking to get more info on how to build and UA-cam is my starting point. I'm more interested in coordinating everything for a final product to be sold but where are the people like in this video
Ryan Monroe was
I'm doing a jet ski to fiberglass Sears gamefisher boat transplant! Your fiberglass videos have been excellent!
your the man!! thankyou for taking your time and speaking fluently and chronologically. very easy to understand and in no time anyone can be a master glasser by watching your tutorials! Namaste from Iowa
Thanks very much for the tutorial. Its my first time fibreglassing stringers and a transom and this video has really helped. Much appreciated.
Well done. I deal with auto racing and some things can be done different. On your 90 degree fillets.. Take a small piece of cove molding and glass that into the 90 degree section. 3/8" works well for this. The molding is very dry and will take in a large amount of resin. Super soak, then glass over that area. . The cove molding acts like a small gusset and it will give you a true straight edge to work from. Enjoy
I know this is old .. but a great refresher. Probably the smartest thing you said at 10:10 "...now I just need to stop screwing with it..." How many times I took a project from "perfectly fine" to "barely adequate" by just "screwing with it" for far longer than I should have :) .. good stuff.
As a fibreglass TAFE teacher in Australia with over 50 years working with both fibreglass and plywood. I think you telling people that putting a coat of resin on first is absolutely crucial.
However, the first coat should be made with an additional 1/2 per cent accelerator and thinned with styrene 5%. This will ensure the resin properly cures but also the extra accelerator can be used to combat the naptha in the plywood which is a polyester retardant. The thinner resin will also soak into the wood fibres better.
Without the speedy curing, it is possible for the resin to not fully cure. especially in cheaper forms of plywood.
Its not always necessary but its a useful trick to ensure a good key when applying the first layers of glass and resin.
There are a LOT of glassed over wooden boats which have had their glass completely delaminate because that first glass/plywood bond has not fully cured.
VERY GOOD ADVICE!!
With most polyester resins available here being pre-accelerated, what would be the total amount of cobalt (or such?) Required in % ?
You’ve done it perfect I’ve been in the industry over 25 yrs the only thing you could do different is to thin your resin with acetone it speeds up the absorption into the ply penetrates deeper . I’ve done test with this method and the results were astonishing. Ply that’s been in capsulated with this method with 2onz Matt 2 layers and exposed to the elements lasted up to 15 yrs before signs of delaminating and not much of it.
Thanks so much for this, I need to cover over my old plywood Sabot hull and this is an invaluable video I'll keep coming back to
Old video but thanks its a big help it answered some questions and concerns im glassing a big custom door speaker enclosure thats ply rear and sides with glass front.
This one tutorial, all by itself, was the most helpful, all-inclusive video that I recommend in my Squaredrop Camper Facebook group.
Hey 🤗🤗😁 That's why I'm here...diy camper waterproofing
Shine is well known in Florida for his boat building knowledge, thanks Shine!
Currently working on my 4th boat refurb-restored project, will be watching more of these glass videos.
Kevin, the BWP
this video is an object lesson in how to pass on skills and knowledge in very clear and understandable manner, I do not build boats or even use galls fibre and stumbled across this more by accident however you held my attention and interest throughout, well done sir an excellent presentation.
Thanks a lot ! Could have used this video in 2008! 🤪. But you are absolutely right. I built a 12’ kayak/canoe kinda hybrid. Very fast and stable. I wasn’t sure how to make the glass stay while I was putting the fiberglass resin on. Being a contractor, I laid out the glass and used a slap hammer/stapler to tack it in place, then I spread the resin on. After a few years it began to delaminate. Been messing with it, I’ll probably just finish getting it all off and just epoxy it. Awesome video. I am wanting to build a house boat soon, definitely will be revisiting this. 👍👍👍👍
I've been working in the shop for a while to make a wooden mold that will be sealed, sanded and have fairing compound placed on it so it can be used for a mold to create 2 pieces that will become a motorcycle saddle bag. Your clear description of materials used as well as the tips along the way have been very helpful. Thank you.
When I built my boat back in the 1980's all the books of the time said that you had to leave a 1/2 inch gap between the hull and bulkhead to avoid making a hard edge on the hull that would cause stress points. Obviously over the years the materials and thinking has changed. Nice video, thanks.
Tru dat. Also the vinyl resin. Vinylester resin doesn't stick to wood very well. Yeah... it's cheaper and way easier to work with, but if you want a strong boat, you need to use epoxy resin with compatible glass. Hollywood makes wood cored boats they're going to blow up with vinylester resin because they don't have to last.
Great video as always. You do the best how to vids on any subject that I have seen on YT. I sold my fiberglass boat and bought an aluminum one. I wish there was a channel as good as yours dealing with aluminum!
I am a grp roof installer,we have used talc with polystyrene resin to make a peanut butter/filling paste to fill in cracks and dips on an old surface. Just a thought.
Hard to understand why anyone would thumbs down this excellent tutorial.
I like to think it was an accident ;-)
Mightiflier
BoatworksToday
jemayrph the
non English speaking people
Wonderful tips I’m doing my boat gunwalls on my boat this weekend 🚤
Try making peanut butter with calcium carbonate as the powder. Good stuff and better than the light weight fillers. Another problem that seems to be common is air bubbles in gel coat. I finally figured out what causes them. I noticed that bubbles were awful when my box fan was running. Actually, it was the paste wax that when heated by the catalized gel coat, released the styrene as a gas! Now, I'm a pva only fan.
Ordinary talc as a non-reactive (inert) thickening agent.
Good video apart from sanding, what other preparation the plywood needs, to apply fiber glass
Finally...this is the kind of stuff my algorithm needs to keep sending me.
this is a top channel for anyone with an old grp boat. thanks so much.
I love how when thinking for an amount of time, you always act like you're really thinking hard about how much time is needed, but then always answer with 30 minutes... half hour....
Awesome videos though. thanks for putting all this great content together. Really helping me with my boat projects.
Matt Bond? you sound as if you come from a long line of fibreglassers!
My apologies if it was already answered in the comment section but what is the ratio of resin and Hardner? please! Thank you
Great video especially for those of us who have never used fiber glass. thanks
My friend and I will be redoing my stringer in a couple of days , I’m happy to see this video as I am inexperienced with glassing , but my buddy has been doing this kind of work for years . Your video really helps me understand what we will be doing . Cheers
Great video's . . . Terrific info. Andy, one tip from a woodworker to another. Add a layer of hardboard (shiny side up, I used contact cement) to your assembly table, and put a coat of paste wax on it. Literally everything will slide around like it's on glass. Nothing sticks to it, glue, varnish etc. If your table saw is bench height, you could round the edges, or lower by 1/4". I got this great tip from a bookbinder company that used the same technique to slide book coverings around before they were folded over and bound. Works awesome.
+Ron Gibson that is a great idea and something I'm going to do once I build a dedicated out feed table, but for the time being this table is an out feed, assembly, and glassing table that sees a lot f abuse :-/.. I typically replace the top skin every coule months :-). Right now it's overdue!
Did a rotten stringer job rebuild and a rotted transom job fill in. All worked out great using similar techniques ! But what a messy job it was . Stuck on bottoms of shoes and pants. Wear old disposable clothes and shoes for sure and alot of gloves . Also only mix what is needed . Did a couple of hot mixes and must work fast .
I'm going to be building my first glass on ply boat soon and really appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Dangar Marine wow to seeing you here buddy!! I follow your channel and watch all your videos.👍👍 take care down there in Australia. I would love a T-shirt to wear here in South Alabama for you.
Haha me too, landed up here after watching Stu's boat build.
Hey Stu.
Do it right, the New England way! Old salties live forever!
I rebuilt a 89’ evinrude xp150 last year. I have to say I learned EVERYTHING from Dangar Marines videos!!! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. The motor is running strong, unfortunately now I’m rebuilding the stringers and deck on my Stratos. Now I can thank both of you for the lessons for a total refurbished vessel🤙🏼
I looked through the comments, didn't see my question, that doesn't mean you haven't answered it a hundred times, however, is there a product for the filled, that you let set up before the first layer of glass? I LOVE your demonstration about the fin roller helping with the radius!!!
THAN YOU
Good video. I prefer sanding with 120 or 240 to give it some tooth. Soak with epoxy as you suggested. Fillet with chop fibers and wood flour or cabosil. Lay up 3 to 6 layers of 6 or 9 oz biax tape alternating by an inch. Cap it all with 1708 all wet-on-wet with epoxy. Super strong finished product. Watch the heat, remove the screws.
I had the impression watching this is that he was using polyester resin could anyone clarify this.
A clear and most helpful demonstration of the correct way to avoid delaminating. Thank you. Hope you enjoyed your football !
Great video on fibreglass over wood - very easy to follow and understand. If you were to attach a piece of marine plywood to a fibreglass hull, would you use the same technique? I assume you could attach/glue the ply to the hull with epoxy prior to laying the glass over it as you demonstrated. Thanks for sharing your advice a professional knowledge. Shaydon.
i have enjoyed watching your videos and i thank you , i have question for you i am building a van and want to use ply for the roof as i feel i will be able to get a good seal on the ends as the roof will be curved , i intend to coat the ply on both sides before fixing and cloth over the top and paint when dry i will be using 6 mm marine ply , can you see any problems it is basically the same application as shown here in this video , thank you for you answer .
I was shown to prime plywood with 50% acetone/50%resin with a LOT of catalyst.Mix is absorbed into ply more quickly and further ,then goes off quick with extra catalyst
HUGE help....., question, when putting in a new floor, how hight up should you apply new glass? like 3-6in up the side?
Hey Andy!
Great show as always! I'm from germany and following you from the beginning!
One question:
I want to add strength to the bulkheads (varnished marine-plywood) in my 35ft sailboat by coating them with fiberglas, would you remove the old varnish, or is it possible to lay the glas on top the varnished wood?
Thanks a lot, Sven
+Sven Eckhoff Hey Sven! You'll need to remove the varnish where you'll be laying glass otherwise it won't bond :-)
Very straightforward and thorough simultaneously. Very helpful thanks for uploading!
A "trick" with bringing woven glass cloth over corners is to lay it on a diagonal to the corner. The effective radius of the glass strands is much larger so it lays easier on the corner.
Great tip Mike, thanks for commenting!
This technique is used in covering aircraft which use dacron cloth tape on curved or rounded surfaces, refered to as "biased tape" which is cut at a 45 degree angle to permit the fabric to be pulled into position as you glue it down onto the wing tip or the outline of the rudder or stabilizers.
Question - for making the joint fillets why would you not use Bondo, which is a polyester body putty used in auto dent repair. It is the consistency of something like Spackle but heavier. It's compatible with fiberglass polyester laminates, is already mixed into a thick paste and just requires catalyst, which comes with the bondo as a kit. You can make a good sized fillet, maybe like 3/4 inch or more, with it. It works fine with radiusing tools.
Boñdo is a weak choice for fillets. Ñever use it with epoxy resins!
Great video , I have a question with regard to fibre glassing in general, If the project is quite large and may not be completed in one day , What preparations/precautions should one take so as to not inadvertently create a weak area where both days work join ?
I have the same question. And also is it bad to stop for the day and come in the next day and continue or do you need to do it while everything still tacky or wet? That was never explained and I see he’s never answered your question but that is a big reality as most boats are pretty big comparison to the little piece he did. So that needs to be addressed. Thanks and appreciate the video it’s good just needs to be a little bit more thorough for us beginners 😁
When you make that peanut butter did you add catalyst to the fiberglass resin before adding the milled fiber and the silica?
Great info for a job i'm about to undertake, saved me making a mistake trying to use one piece! Thanks heaps
Hello From Ireland.can I ask you what are you using to clean your tools. And do you discard of waste generally in the household waste bin.
Thanks Mark.
Thank you so SO much. This tutorial is allowing me to build a custom shower in an RV that otherwise could not fit one.
I really appreciate this detailed educational look at fiberglass. I'm trying to replace a transom and I wasn't sure how the glass was going to go around the 90° top.
I was taught by a old timer when coating plywood first to use 50/50 resin/acetone. We have always done this and it sucks right into the wood. We're we misinformed? Any time we put a hole for a bilge or plug.
+Team Frankenmerc It mostly depends how thin the resin is to begin with. The resin I get is pretty thin already so I don't usually have a need to thin it, but if / when I do I prefer to use styrene. Acetone would work as well when used in small amounts, but styrene is a solvent that's already mixed into the resin from the manufacturer so that's what I stick with :-)
BoatworksToday q
Fantastic video thanks for showing people the proper process on fiberglass wood I've had quite a few jods come to me and all becouse people think they know what there doing ...
i havn't seen too many of your videos (yet) but I am indeed aware of them and was under the initial impression that you are a big user of West System Epoxy resin, and thus, I was curious what you were using for resin in this video? im assuming, due to the use of chopped strand mat, It must be polyester resin of some sort,, which do you prefer (as in Brand of polyster) and when exactly do you prefer to choose polyester instead of epoxy and vice versa? thanks
@Terry Marsh You are making good points. It’s been decades ago when I studied and used resins and glass. Things have changed was well as materials. I would like to see a tutorial on the glass to resin ratio, glass strand orientation regarding tensile forces, and information about material (the skin) flexibility.
Love this stuff great assistance for the hobbyists like me, I'm grateful for people that are willing to share expertise thank you.
Having used fibreglass for years the most important step this guy has not told you is to round off the sharp, square external edges of the plywood otherwise the glass matting will bubble off in these areas. He started with square edges then when we cut back he’d rounded them off.
First thing I noticed was sharp edges then they where rounded in next shot, from Te Poi Fibreglass Ltd. NZ
Noticed the EXACT same thing. You could even see the router on the table, however he did touch on the radius at the end.
I have done absolute minimal fibreglass work, but the first thing I realised was, it doesn't go round sharp corners.
I addressed all of this in the video... Gotta watch the entire thing ;-)
@@boatworkstoday DO NOT USE TALCUM POWDER. (and that's the correct spelling). If the resin isn't toxic enough (some have extreme allergic reactions to epoxy, and the solvent in polyester resins will make you sick too) I'll advise that in the mineral world, talcum is closely associated with asbestiform materials. Commercial "Talcum Powder" frequently contains enough asbestos to make you sick. It might take 15 years, but you can get mesothelioma from a single exposure (from a formerly EPA-registered Asbestos Project Designer).
ALSO... anyone working with polyester resin should be wearing a respirator with appropriate (activated charcoal) filters. I'll be charitable and guess this demonstration was done with epoxy resin.
With this video I’ve started to watch you channel, here I leave a comment to say thank you for all the videos you done it did help me learn a lot, which I’m going to use now that we started to build our catamaran!
Is it vital that the base coat is still tacky when you start laying out your glass?
+Edvin Gomer no, providing that you're using laminating resin. It just makes it easier when the resin in still soft to make it conform. If it sets up, you'll just need to sand to a smooth profile to avoid irregularities in th surface which otherwise result in air voids.
+Thomas Russell Umm.. There is no amine blush with poly resin :-) That only happens with epoxy
+Thomas Russell Not a problem! I can see that ;-) I used their 406 filler rather than cabosil as it's what I had in the shop. Both are a type of silica but the 406 is much more fine.. Thanks for following up!!
Do you sand the surface in between layers ? Thanks great video
Great video Andy! I really love how clearly you explain this stuff and I always learn so much from your videos. Keep up the great work!!
+Zac Higgins you're awesome Zac! Thank you ;-)
+BoatworksToday Have you attempted to use fiberglass with a polyurethane as resin??
Zac Higgins Great video, i never thought to pre soak the ply
Great instructional video!
Zac Higgins Zac Higgins for president
,,,, Your channel RULES man,
Hi nice demonstration. Can you put a link to the mat fiber glass you use(roll you have ). The type that is easy to tear/rip by hand. I'm new to this and don't want to buy the wrong type. Thanks
is it best to use expoxy resin on stingers?
you can put epoxy on fibreglass but you cant fibreglass on epoxy, the cross link polymers don't bond as well.
Pretty much required. Polyester resin doesn't reliably bond to wood. Some people have stapled the first layer or two of cloth to the wood after laying up, then laying more cloth on that. Seems to work on Shrimp boats in the Gulf.
Go epoxy, polyester is best suited for products. Plus the slow cure of epoxy allows you to go 'wet on wet',and you can use specialized cloths
I got question I have a 1999 bayliner trophy I repair the stringer and transom would like to what is best to epoxy or ploy resin
2 questions. where do u get fiber glass cloth from ? Do I have to sand after each layer ?
Anywhere you want to. It's not as common as dirt, but close. No you do not sand after each layer, but you do roll it down compact with the prior layer and make sure there's just enough epoxy to saturate it, no air between, but not standing puddles of epoxy either unless you're coming back right away with the next layer and that'll take up the excess.
@@stinkycheese804 if your resin has a wax surfacing agent then you do want to sand between each layer, it's also a good idea because any little piece of sticking up won't allow the next layer to lay down smoothly
Sanding between layers depends on the application - IMO. If it's a hull application on the bottom of a ply skiff, I don't sand. Some epoxies don't emit an amine blush, an oily film as it cures. If yours has that, you need to wash it with acetone and possibly light sand before the next layer. If no blush, I just light sand to make sure nothing has risen that will hold the next layer above the last one. It also makes the final sanding easier because you've already knocked down the bigger stuff.
If the application is just interior structure with no concern about looks, I just wash with the acetone and quickly sand down just the lumpy stuff. If your brand of epoxy does not blush, just sand as you see fit.
@@stinkycheese804 Do you know the reason cloth is used and woven roving?
@@toddlehman928 You should not use waxed resins for layups. I only use them for a final brush coat if it is not going to be gel coated and left as a raw glass surface.
Thanks for the videos I am rebuilding a boat stringers and transom when using a laminating resin and finish so I have to use a wax for it to cure something else or just leave it alone?
+1980andyjt you cans either use a wax mixed with the last coat of resin, or go over the tacked surface with PVA (poly vinyl alcohol). Either will work!
Great video. I am doing both stringers and a transom in my speed boat. TYVM!
Hello thanks so much foll the all your videos.They are clear informative and are enjoyable to watch.My cabin roof was rotten so i have removed the inner layer of the fiberglass and the rotten wood.My plan was to epoxy some 10mm ply to the outer skin and then fiberglass over it.If i was to seal the ply wood with resin first would i still be able to bend it upwards to match the curved profile of the roof?I am concerned priming it this way would make it rigid.Thanks and look forward to more videos.
Though your means of breaking up the fiberglass plys into segments for application purposes may be good enough for boat work. If you want the maximum strength possible, it is best to apply each fiberglass ply as a continuos singe sheet. I know you don't want to here this and I am not trying to discredit your work, but look at it from a welding point of view. The more joint you have the weaker the overall structure will be. So, if you are building a racing structure and ever pound and a maximum strength is required, then your method can not be used. That being said, sometimes several fiberglass plys per layer are good enough and maybe the only way to assemble the structure do to space constrictions or complexities. Also, always remember to wear your PPE (Personal Protective equipment) it is not worth hurting your eye or your lungs with glass which you will pay for when you get older! You will! Thanks for the video I really learned a lot today and see how repairs are actually done! Keep up the good work.
"Good enough for boat work"? Boats take an incredible pounding.
This post is a bit late, but before I apply resin to plywood, I perforate the ply surface with a punch made of a bundle of finishing nails approx 2 X 2 square. The punch is made by pouring resin and hardener mix about half full in a metal pipe cap, then seat the bundle of nails with the heads down in the cap and resin. When hard, I level and sharpen the points with a grinder. It is now ready to use as a punch. With a hammer tap lightly and move the punch around to cover all the area of ply. Just dimple all of the surface no more than 1/16 deep. Then with a corner of a chisel, scratch the surface at random and diagonally.(Resist the urge to sand the rough surface when done.) It is now ready for resin application and cloth/mat application and will help the bonding.
Very interesting, You are making an anchor pattern for the resin. In coating steel pipe with Fusion bonded poxy, an anchor pattern is very important for a good bond.
Why do you tend to always use polyester resin vs epoxy? What are the disadvantages of epoxy?
I'll be doing a video covering the different types of resin and when / where to use them this Summer :-)
Oh, awesome! Thank you for your amazing and extremely informative videos.
I understand the multiple layering of resin, is the glass necessary under the cloth, when fiber glassing large flat areas?
Every time I hear or see fiberglass, I start to itch. It is of course all in my head but it does not stop me from scratching....hehe
Seems quite labor-intensive. I'm building a wood center console for our pontoon and your vid helped me decide to get a pro to do the glass!
Try wetting 2 glass mats out on Mylar, then peel it up and lay it into final area. Then use a aerated pencil roller to roll out air bubbles.
Why bother? Prewet your area then lay your glass where it needs to go, apply more resin if needed and roll out. If you have excess resin you can soak it up with a brush or better yet a paint nap roller
When you put the resin on your plywood are you using the same resin you use with the fiberglass mesh
Have you ever thought about using spun bonded polyester landscaping fabric to make a composite?
uncletomsrice I used landscape fabric when I water proofed my new shower, I used redguard, worked good and fully wetted out. I think it was non-woven fabric and soft to the touch, not scratchy. It layed up nice and tight into the corners with no spring-back
It’s been around 20 years since I did a large project with glass. Needed a refresher to remind me of the process, thanks great video.
I've always applied sealer first. Let dry, then surface can take what ever you want without soaking or warping.
GreenWeeney He lets the resin go sticky, makes it much easier to stick on the matting so it does not move around, and you can tighten round edges
Do you an instructional video? I want to learn!
Mark Thomasson can we use this to repair an ATV plastic body?
Im wondering how long I can let the first coat of polyester resin set before I add chop strand mat? Can the prime coat of resin set for a week? Two weeks maybe? Would I have to sand it before adding my mat after that long?
My only critique is that you used more resin than necessary. Using more resin than needed is weaker than using just enough. Too much resin is the most common mistake made when working with fiberglass. I would have emphasized that using smaller pieces of mat is actually stronger than a large single piece due to the overlap. It also gives a lot of breathing room in regards to pot life when working on the project. I always precut all my glass before mixing. That reduces the time between layers which results in a stronger bond. The key to proper lay up is prepare, prep, and lots of patience
Risin no good
This is a very informative and useful video. I noticed that you are using Baltic Birch plywood instead of marine plywood. Is Baltic Birch plywood better than the standard marine plywood for boat repair and construction?
If by using marine plywood you are refering to true bs1088 then that is a grading system based on the quality/thickness of the plys and the veneer faces and wbp glue/resin. The grading can be achieved by many timbers... so although this may be marine suitable timber the sheets may not be upto bs1088 grade the choice ofwhich is usually down to price point
Thank for the additional information.
I've learned allot from this! Do you have any plans to demonstrate foam core laminating for like bulk heads, decking, stringers, ect? would love to see your expertise when it comes to laminating schedule w/ strength vs cosmetic and What type of core for each. keep posting vids! very informative and love your work!
If working with foam make sure it's polyurethane ! I actually like bàlsicore the best!
Very interesting i always wondered if you could fiberglass over wood now i know you can thank you😊
Here's an old school trick just before you wet up the wood and put down some chop use a misting spray bottle to mist on some acetone to the wood do not saturate just a mist then before it evaporates hit it quick with resin it will bit into the wood harder and give a superior bond remember dont saturate or it will thin out the resin to much 👍
Building a box for kayak trailer. Was going to frame with 2x3 use exterior plywood then build and resin the box paint. Any suggestions on places I should glass and what type resin. Thank you
the real reason for using Chop Strand is.........chop strand is has Multi Directional strength, mat has one directional strength,
so for laying up use chop for final smooth finish use mat, then finish with gel coat, and never glas over a sharp corner/edge always "round off" the corner/edge
Hi there just have a enquiry, Do you peanut butter along the corner a second time or only under the first layer? Thanks
This guy is really informative. Thank you I've learned so much from you.
Helps me a lot to finish my Volkswagen Westfalia High Roof on a Toyota HZJ75... I had to make it sorter and to build a part made of plywood clovered with fiberglass. Thank you!!!
Do not touch any surface you're about to glass/laminate/fiberglass with your barehands. The body oils create fisheyes. Use acetone to clean such prior to laminating.
My dad built and raced boats in the 1950's and 1960's. My dad was a master at applying fiberglass over plywood. He built custom boats for races like the "Salton Sea 500" and the annual race between Long Beach and Santa Catalina. He built boats for people like Roy Rogers.
Epoxy resin is very toxic to nervous system. You weren't using vapor breathing protection!
But I like the way you teach.
Well, he was using polyester but still agree with the need for a respirator
Question what are the two different types of mat Fiberglass what mat will let you do more bends?
Laying it up on the bias helps with the curves too. 45degree angle.
Will polyester resin unbond eventually from an oldglass hull when replacing stringers . Another site stated to only useing epoxy . But once you use epoxy you cant use polyresin to finish the stringer job. HELP please. Thanks.